CN117731084A

CN117731084A - Wrapped garment and structural design method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN117731084A
Application number: CN202311804018.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 李貌
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2023-12-26
Filing date: 2023-12-26
Publication date: 2024-03-22

Abstract

The invention discloses a wrapped garment and a structural design method thereof in the technical field of garment structural design, comprising the following steps: step S1: hanging or winding grey cloth used for clothing plate making on a dynamic human body, and determining a cutting basic line on the grey cloth; step S2: cutting grey cloth according to the cutting basic line by using a clothing three-dimensional structural design method, and wrapping the trunk, arms, waist and legs of a human body; step S3: and taking the grey cloth off the human body to obtain the complete clothing structure diagram. The invention ensures that various types of clothes have sport functionality, increases the wearing scene range, simultaneously facilitates the recovery, disassembly and treatment of the clothes, can be recycled after the maintenance of the protection function characteristics, and reduces the use cost of the clothes.

Description

Wrapped garment and structural design method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of clothing structural design, in particular to a wrapped type clothing and a structural design method thereof.

Background

The plane cutting is a technical construction means of the most traditional foundation of clothing plane construction, and the human body contour is molded by connecting vertical, horizontal and arc lines obtained based on human body transverse and longitudinal coordinate measurement on the fabric in a qualitative theory angle and finally cutting out the shape of the clothing piece in a quantitative mode. And the grid lines applied on the human body are thus considered to constitute a theoretical framework for most clothing structures of the current generation.

The same grid lines are also often used for a mannequin model when performing the vertical cutting technique, and reference lines used for planar drawing are used as assistance. Thus, stereocutting is considered as another technical constituent of the construction of clothing planes. The clothing patterns obtained by using the traditional vertical cutting drawing and the plane drawing are not different, and are both built on the same theoretical frame on which the cutting is based, the working sequence is from outside to inside, and the working starting points of the clothing patterns are from a straight frame or rectangular cloth fixed on a mannequin model. And removing redundant fabric from the plane through the provincial lines and the molding lines, and gradually closing to the human body.

The planar cutting and the stereo cutting are both to use a static constitution to think and process the interactive relation between the dynamic human body and the planar clothing.

However, the human body is a dynamic variable whose shape is constantly changing. The body is changing and the change must be irregular, so that the variables are removed while the body is abstracted and transformed with the basic quantitative framework, and as a result, the designed product can only adapt to static, stiff bodies, but is not suitable for dynamic body wearing.

In order to change from static state to dynamic state, a new set of theories which are more in line with human body dynamics needs to be developed as the basis of garment tailoring. The quantitative data is acquired from a dynamic rather than static human body in a brand new outline mode of the human body profile, and the dynamic relationship between the human body and the garment is integrally grasped in a visual mode from inside to outside.

Functional clothing is becoming popular, but the functional clothing style is limited to outdoor sports style, and the wearing scene range is limited. More importantly, the functional characteristics of the functional garment are costly to maintain, affecting the audience population of the functional garment, and giving the person an expensive feel similar to luxury clothing.

Based on the above, the present invention provides a wrap-type garment and a structural design method thereof, so as to solve the above-mentioned problems.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a wrapped garment and a structural design method thereof, which are used for solving the problems that the functional garment style proposed in the background art is limited to outdoor exercise style and the wearing scene range is limited. More importantly, the maintenance cost of the functional characteristics of the functional clothing is high, so that the problem of influence on the audience population of the functional clothing is solved, and the functional clothing with various styles has the sport functionality and is convenient to recycle, disassemble, process and the like, and can be recycled after the functional characteristics are maintained.

In order to achieve the above purpose, the present invention provides the following technical solutions: a structural design method of wrap-type clothing comprises the following steps:

step S1: hanging or winding grey cloth used for clothing plate making on a dynamic human body, and determining a cutting basic line on the grey cloth;

step S2: cutting grey cloth according to the cutting basic line by using a clothing three-dimensional structural design method, and wrapping the trunk, arms, waist and legs of a human body;

step S3: and taking the grey cloth off the human body to obtain the complete clothing structure diagram.

In a further scheme, in the step S1, the grey cloth used for plate making is hung or wound on a shoulder or waist position on a dynamic human body, and the warp yarn direction of the grey cloth is in a horizontal state on the human body back.

In a further aspect, in the step S1, the determining the clipping base line is based on a clothing body structure point, where the structure point is: a back neck point, a back waist midpoint, front and back armpit points, and front and back crotch points. The cut of the cutting basic line points to the human body structure point of the clothing (the position of the drape (gravity) of the grey cloth due to human biomechanics). The cutting basic line is equivalent to a planar constitution or basic elements of a dart, a side suture, an armhole line and an armhole suture in the traditional vertical cutting.

In a further aspect, the step S2 includes: cutting out a collar and a top fly or a waist and a crotch of the garment, wherein the cloth threads of the top fly or the crotch are oblique threads, namely 45-degree direction threads; dividing the clothing body and the sleeves or the upper part and the trouser leg parts; the trunk, arms and legs of the human body are wrapped, so that the fabric has the maximum stretching characteristic in the 45-degree direction of the silk threads.

In a further aspect, the "bias" strands of grey cloth need to be present in the lumbar, upper arm, forearm, thigh areas of the body.

In a further scheme, whether the cloth folds of the arms and the thighs are naturally not tight or not is checked under the active and loose state of the human body.

The scheme also provides a wrapped garment, which is manufactured by the structural design method of the wrapped garment.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

the invention ensures that various types of clothes have sport functionality, increases the wearing scene range, simultaneously facilitates the recovery, disassembly and treatment of the clothes, can be recycled after the maintenance of the protection function characteristics, and reduces the use cost of the clothes.

The layout design of the invention can be more in line with the motion structure of the human body, improves the motion comfort and can improve the functional property of the garment.

The whole piece type structure of the wrapped clothing adopted by the invention strengthens the clothing functionality (such as adding functional auxiliary agents and the like), and the clothing can be repeatedly used to keep green environmental protection.

Drawings

In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the drawings that are needed for the description of the embodiments will be briefly described below, and it is obvious that the drawings in the following description are only some embodiments of the present invention, and that other drawings may be obtained according to these drawings without inventive effort for a person skilled in the art.

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the structural design flow of a wrap-around garment of the present invention;

Detailed Description

The following description of the embodiments of the present invention will be made clearly and completely with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which it is apparent that the embodiments described are only some embodiments of the present invention, but not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the invention without making any inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the invention.

Referring to fig. 1, the present invention provides a technical solution:

example 1

The embodiment of the invention provides a structural design method of a wrap-type garment, in particular to a structural design mode of a top garment, which comprises the following steps:

step S1: the grey cloth used for plate making is hung on the upper body of a dynamic human body, the dynamic human body is based on the fact that the human body is a dynamic variable, the change is necessarily irregular, the dynamic human body is more suitable, and the cutting basic line is determined on the grey cloth. The grey cloth used for plate making is hung or wound on a dynamic human body, cloth is hung on shoulders of the human body, the cloth is wound from the rear center to the front center, and warp yarns of the grey cloth are in a horizontal straight line state on the back of the human body. The determined cutting basic line is based on clothing human body structure points (a rear neck point and front and rear armpit points). The cut of the cutting basic line points to the human body structure point of the clothing (the position of the drape (gravity) of the grey cloth due to human biomechanics). The cutting basic line is equivalent to a planar constitution or basic elements of a dart, a side suture, an armhole line and an armhole suture in the traditional vertical cutting.

In this embodiment, since the top fly is used, the grey cloth needs to overlap to a large extent in the front center. The width of the blank is slightly wider than the width of the human arm, the length of the blank is longer at the back and along the hip line, and longer at the front and knee positions.

Step S2: and cutting grey cloth according to the cutting basic line by using a clothing three-dimensional structural design method, and wrapping the human trunk and arms.

The method comprises the following specific steps:

body part:

step S2-1: the collar and the top fly of the garment are cut, and the fabric threads of the top fly are oblique threads (45-degree direction threads).

Step S2-2: firstly, fixing grey cloth of the front fly and the back. According to the intended clothing dividing structure, clothing side stitches are cut from the selvedge of the back clothing body near the buttocks toward the back armpit point.

Step S2-3: the front cloth is pulled to the side seam of the back cloth and fixed, so that the front cloth and the back cloth are ensured to be flat. Along the side suture line of the back body, the gray cloth of the front body is cut out to form armhole lines toward the front armpit point, and the cutting is finished at a position close to the upper part of the rear armpit point.

Step S2-4: and trimming the lower hem of the front and rear body according to the expected length of the garment.

Sleeve part:

step S2-5: the grey cloth hung under the arm is fixed by passing through the armpit along the armhole line, and the clothing armhole line is adjusted according to the activity of the arm.

Step S2-6: the upper and lower cloths are fixed into sleeves until reaching the position of the epicondyle in the elbow humerus.

Step S2-7: the arms naturally bend forward. The position of the upper condyle in the elbow humerus on the sleeve suture is taken as a cutting opening, and the cutting is carried out from the inner side of the arm to the elbow fossa, and the cutting is ended at the position close to the inner side of the elbow fossa.

Step S2-8: the cloth on the back and outer side of the elbow is pulled towards the fossa calcaneus and fixed along the medial epicondyle of the humerus and the fossa cubital incision line. Finally, the cloth materials at two sides are fixed together from the elbow nest towards the directions of the cuffs of the clothes, and the final shape of the sleeves is finished.

Step S2-9: and taking the grey cloth off the human body, and finally obtaining the complete clothing structure diagram according to the clothing plane drawing technique.

Example 2

The embodiment of the invention provides a structural design method of a wrap-type garment, in particular to a structural design mode of a lower garment, which comprises the following steps:

step S1: the grey cloth used for plate making is hung or wound on the waist of a dynamic human body, and a cutting basic line is determined on the grey cloth. The grey cloth used for plate making is wound on the dynamic human waist, cloth tightly wraps the waist and the buttocks, and winds the front center from the rear center to the front center, and warp yarns fixing the grey cloth are in a horizontal straight line state at the human rear waist. The determined cutting basic line is based on clothing human body structural points (a rear waist midpoint and front and rear crotch points). The cutting opening of the cutting basic line points to the human body structure point of the clothing, and the grey cloth is in the position of the fold (gravity) generated by human body biomechanics. The cutting basic line is equivalent to a planar constitution or basic elements of a dart, a side suture, an armhole line and an armhole suture in the traditional vertical cutting.

Step S2: and cutting grey cloth according to the cutting basic line by using a clothing three-dimensional structural design method, and wrapping the waist and the legs of a human body.

The method comprises the following specific steps:

waist portion:

step S2-1: the cloth from the waist to the overlapping portion of the crotch is fixed at the front center position. The cloth is cut from the back center of the human body vertically downwards to the hip circumference line until the cloth is flat and has no folds below the waist.

Step S2-2: the cloth is cut off towards the front center of the human body from the cut opening to the two sides respectively parallel to the waistline.

Step S2-3: the cloth material from the waist to the overlapping parts of the two sides of the crotch is trimmed along the front center line, the trimming ends at the expected crotch depth position of the garment, and then the radian of the crotch line is approximately trimmed outwards.

Leg portion:

step S2-4: the cloth is cut from the back center of the human body vertically upwards to the hip line, and the cut ends at a position close to the lower part of the hip line.

Step S2-5: the cloth with the radian of crotch line is cut out from the front of the human body, and the cloth is respectively stretched from the inner sides of the two legs to the cut at the crotch line of the back center hip. According to the activity of human body, the crotch curve is trimmed to balance the crotch looseness, and then the front and rear pieces of the crotch are connected and fixed at the cut at the crotch line of the rear center hip.

Step S2-6: with the cut as a starting point, a piece of trousers seam line is cut from the outer sides of the two legs towards the knee direction according to the expected structural line on the initial back piece of cloth and is stopped at the lower position close to the patella.

Step S2-7: and fixing the grey cloth hanging on the inner side of the rear thigh to the position below the patella along the trouser seam line, and adjusting the trouser legs at the thigh part according to the thigh activity.

Step S2-8: the leg knee relaxes and bends. The lower part of the patella on the trousers suture is used as a cutting opening, and the trousers suture is cut from the inner side of the leg to the popliteal fossa and is ended at the position close to the inner side of the popliteal fossa.

Step S2-9: cloth on the anterolateral side of the leg is pulled toward the popliteal fossa and fixed along the patella and popliteal fossa incision line. Finally, the cloth on two sides is fixed together from the popliteal fossa towards the trouser leg opening, and the final modeling of the trouser leg is completed.

Step S2-10: and taking the grey cloth off the human body, and finally obtaining the complete clothing structure diagram according to the clothing plane drawing technique.

In the description of the present specification, the descriptions of the terms "one embodiment," "example," "specific example," and the like, mean that a particular feature, structure, material, or characteristic described in connection with the embodiment or example is included in at least one embodiment or example of the present invention. In this specification, schematic representations of the above terms do not necessarily refer to the same embodiments or examples. Furthermore, the particular features, structures, materials, or characteristics described may be combined in any suitable manner in any one or more embodiments or examples.

The preferred embodiments of the invention disclosed above are intended only to assist in the explanation of the invention. The preferred embodiments are not exhaustive or to limit the invention to the precise form disclosed. Obviously, many modifications and variations are possible in light of the above teaching. The embodiments were chosen and described in order to best explain the principles of the invention and the practical application, to thereby enable others skilled in the art to best understand and utilize the invention. The invention is limited only by the claims and the full scope and equivalents thereof.

Claims

1. The structural design method of the wrapped clothing is characterized by comprising the following steps of:

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein in the step S1, the grey cloth used for plate making is hung or wound on the shoulder or waist of the dynamic human body, and the warp yarns of the grey cloth are horizontal at the back of the human body.

3. The method for designing a wrapped garment according to claim 2, wherein in the step S1, the determining of the cutting basic line is based on the human body structural points of the garment, and the structural points are as follows: a back neck point, a back waist midpoint, front and back armpit points, and front and back crotch points.

4. The method according to claim 1, wherein in the step S1, the cut of the cutting base line points to the human body structural point of the garment, and the cutting base line corresponds to a planar structure or a basic element of a dart, a side seam, an armhole line, and an armhole line in the conventional vertical cutting.

5. The method for structural design of a wrap-type garment according to claim 1, wherein the step S2 comprises: cutting out a collar and a top fly or a waist and a crotch of the garment, wherein the cloth threads of the top fly or the crotch are oblique threads, namely 45-degree direction threads; dividing the clothing body and the sleeves or the upper part and the trouser leg parts; the trunk, arms and legs of the human body are wrapped, so that the fabric has the maximum stretching characteristic in the 45-degree direction of the silk threads.

6. The method of claim 5, wherein the "bias yarn" strands of the blank are required to be present in the waist, upper arm, forearm, thigh areas of the body.

7. The method according to claim 5, wherein the cloth wrinkles on the arms and thighs are examined for natural tightness in the active and relaxed state of the human body.

8. A wrap-around garment made by the structural design method of a wrap-around garment according to any one of claims 1-7.