JP5335599B2 - How to make pants - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for making trousers designed so as not to cause horizontal wrinkles in the vicinity of the lower part of the front crotch thereof when worn even if the trousers have a silhouette fit to the thighs of a wearer. <P>SOLUTION: The method for making trousers comprises: connecting two points B, C leaving a space therebetween on an inner thigh line 6 and a point (A) on a side line 4 upper than a fork line 2 so as to make a dart at the inner thigh between the fork line 2 and a front opening end 8, at the rise part of a pattern for a trouser front body part 10; shifting the rise part upper than an upper-side segment AB when drawing figures so as to make the upper-side segment AB overlap on a segment AC; correcting the line to make the inner thigh line smoothly continue, to make a corrected front body pattern for the trousers; cutting cloth based on the corrected front body pattern and a back body pattern for the trousers; stretching out a portion corresponding to the dart of the cut cloth for the front body part using an iron; and sewing up the cloths for the right and left front bodies and the right and left back bodies in such a stretched condition. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2011,JPO&amp;INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing trousers. In particular, the present invention relates to a production method suitable for women's pants.

  Generally, when a pant (trousers) having a silhouette fitted to the thigh is manufactured by a conventional normal pattern (pattern), a recumbent a occurs near the lower part of the front crotch when worn as shown in FIG. There is a problem that such a recumbent a has a bad appearance, does not feel refreshed, and the legs look short.

  One means for preventing such recumbence a from occurring is to wear large-sized pants. However, when wearing large-sized pants, there is a problem in that the waist does not fit, the waist is swollen, and the hips appear to be lowered.

  The invention disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 3851632 (Patent Document 1) was invented by the inventor of the present application, and this publication discloses a method for removing wrinkles generated in the lower portion of the hip.

  However, it has not been proposed in the past to eliminate the recumbency that occurs near the lower part of the front crotch when wearing pants.

Japanese Patent No. 3851632

  An object of the present invention is to provide a pair of trousers (pants, slacks) fitted to the thighs so that there is no recumbent area near the lower part of the front crotch when worn. is there.

In the crotch part of the pattern of the front part of the trousers, the present invention includes two points B and C spaced on the small crotch line between the crossover line and the front opening stop, and a point A on the side line above the crossover line. , Move the upper crotch above the upper line segment AB on the drawing so that the upper line segment AB overlaps the lower line segment AC, and redraw the line so that the small crotch line continues smoothly The front body pattern of the corrected trousers, cutting the fabric based on the front body pattern and the back body pattern of the trousers, and using the bias of the fabric in the cut front body fabric, ironed to stretch a portion, and an appropriate Koguri size, to achieve the above object by manufacturing methods pants, characterized in that sewing the fabric of the fabric and the back body and back before the said ironing.

  In this case, it is preferable that the vertical interval between the two points B and C on the small crotch line is 0.5 to 1.2 cm.

  According to the present invention, the crotch upper part is moved so that the dart is taken to the small crotch between the crossover line and the front opening stop in the front body of the trousers. Can eliminate the dough.

  If a dart is taken on the small crotch, the length of the small crotch line will be shortened, and the necessary crotch length will not be left as it is, and the crotch will be cramped when worn. For this reason, in this invention, the cloth | dough of the location corresponded to a dart part is extended with an iron, and it can prevent a crotch from becoming cramped by this.

  Therefore, even if the trousers produced by the method of the present invention are trousers with a silhouette that fits the thighs, there is no recumbency that has conventionally occurred in the vicinity of the lower part of the front crotch when worn. The legs look long.

Fig.1 (a) is a front view which shows the upper part of the trousers produced by the conventional technique. FIG.1 (b) is a front view which shows the upper part of the trousers for demonstrating the relationship between a recumbent and an excess area, represents a recumbent on the right foot side, and represents the surplus area on the left foot side. FIG.1 (c) is a front view which shows the upper part of the trousers created by the method of this invention. It is the front view which showed only the crotch upper part and the leg upper part by the pattern of the front body of the conventional trousers. It is the front view which showed the range from which the dart was taken to the small crotch with the pattern of the front body of the conventional trousers. It is the front view which showed only the crotch upper part and the leg upper part by the pattern of the front body of the trousers of this invention. FIG. 5 (a) is an explanatory view showing how to iron the fabric cut based on the pattern shown in FIG. 4, and FIG. 5 (b) shows the space of the stretched fabric with the crotch upper end flattened. It is explanatory drawing which shows the state which moved the minute to the small crotch part.

  FIG. 1 (a) is a pair of trousers produced with a conventional normal pattern (pattern), which is produced by stitching together a front body 10 and a back body (not shown). When pants having such a conventional pattern are worn with a size that fits the thigh, as shown in FIG. 1 (a), there is a tendency that a recumbent a occurs near the lower part of the front crotch.

  The inventor of the present invention diligently studied and found the following.

  As shown in FIG. 1 (b), it was confirmed that the recumbent a expressed on the right foot side disappears when the rhombic portion b hatched on the left foot side is picked. That is, the rhombus portion b is an extra area as a fabric.

  If such a diamond-shaped portion b can be removed from the pattern, the horizontal a is not generated, but it is impossible to remove this extra area b in a normal pattern structure.

  FIG. 2 is a pattern of the front body of a conventional trouser, and shows a diamond-shaped portion b shown on the left foot side in FIG. 1B on the pattern. In the figure, reference numeral 1 is a front crease line, 2 is a crossover line, 3 is an inner crotch line, 4 is a side line, 5 is a front center line, 6 is a small crotch line, and 7 is a waist line. The part is the crotch and the lower part is the crotch.

  The small crotch portion extends from the upper end D of the inner crotch line 3 on the front crotch line extending from the upper end of the inner crotch line 3 (indicated by the symbol D in FIG. 3) to the waist line 7 and changes to a straight line. In the case of front-opening trousers, it is between the upper end D of the inner crotch line 3 and the front-opening stop 8 (see FIG. 3).

  As a result of research on various types of trousers, the diamond-shaped portion b, which is an extra area, is located between the front crease line 1 and the small crotch line 6 in view of the state where the recumbent a is formed. Pants the trousers so that the nearest side (the front crease line 1 and the small crotch line 6 are divided into three equal parts and 2/3 from the front crease line 1) has the maximum width of unnecessary dimensions. And recumbent a tends to disappear. Further, it has been found that the position and width at which the unnecessary width becomes the maximum width is not so much related to the change in the width-related dimension such as the hip dimension.

  However, in order to remove the diamond-shaped portion b, which is an excess area shown by hatching in FIG. 2, the stitches are cut as a dart on the cut fabric, or removed on the pattern to form a horizontal seam (switching line). Is possible. However, there is no recumbency a, but the finished trousers have traces of seams and picked fabrics near the bottom of the front crotch, resulting in markedly different results from the general shape, meaning aesthetics This also creates a sense of incongruity and cannot be a normal product.

  According to the present invention, first, as shown in FIG. 3, in the pattern of the front body 10 of the conventional trousers, two points B and C spaced apart from the front opening stop 8 on the lower crotch 6 The point A on the side line 4 above the connecting line 2 is connected. A rhombus portion b is included in a range surrounded by the triangle ABC. A triangle ABC indicates a range where a dart is taken at a small crotch. If a dart is taken in this way, a diamond-shaped portion b which is an extra area shown by hatching is removed.

  If the dart is used as it is, the above-mentioned problem occurs. Therefore, according to the present invention, as shown in FIG. 4, the upper line segment AB is overlapped with the lower line segment AC, as shown in FIG. The crotch part above the line segment AB is rotated with the point A as a base point to move. The positions of the point B and the point C after the movement do not coincide with each other, and the small crotch line 6 after the movement is stepped. Therefore, the point D at the upper end of the inner crotch line 3 and the front opening stop 8 are connected by a smooth curve. , A new small crotch line 6 '. In this way, a corrected pattern of the front body of the pants is created.

  Thus, by moving the crotch portion above the upper line segment AB, there is an effect similar to that obtained by taking darts, and the corrected pattern after the movement is an unnecessary rhombus portion b shown in FIG. It is the pattern of the state which removed. However, the corrected pattern has a shorter crotch line length than the original pattern.

  In the present invention, this shortage is dealt with at the sewing stage to maintain the proper crotch size and replace it with the required three-dimensional shape.

  First, the fabric is cut based on the corrected front body pattern shown in FIG. In FIG. 5A, the cut fabric 20 is ironed in the direction of the arrow S so as to extend the small crotch portion using the fabric bias.

  In FIG. 5 (a), the lattice 21 schematically represents the texture of the fabric, and indicates that the texture of the texture has been deformed by ironing. Then, as shown in FIG. 5 (b), when the crotch upper end is flattened and the stretched portion c of the stretched fabric is moved to the small crotch portion, it seems that the front crotch upper and lower portions have gussets from the crotch As a result, an appropriate crotch dimension (length) can be obtained.

  The trousers of the present invention are completed by sewing the ironed front body fabric and the back body fabric. When the trousers of the present invention are worn, as shown in FIG. 1 (c), a refreshing appearance is obtained without causing a recumbent portion near the lower part of the front crotch.

  The stretched fabric part is fixed in the stretched state by the crotch seam that stitches the crotch of the left front and right front of the trousers. Will never return.

  Moreover, if the back body sewn with the front body of the present invention is manufactured by the method disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 3856632 (Patent Document 1), there will be a recumbent under the hip. Therefore, as a whole, it is possible to manufacture a pants having a preferable silhouette in which the effect of making the legs look longer is further enhanced.

  In addition, although the vertical width (width of an unnecessary dimension) of the rhombus portion b, which is an extra area shown by hatching in FIG. 1B, varies depending on the material of the fabric and the weave density, it is about 8 mm at the maximum. Therefore, the vertical distance between the two points B and C on the small crotch line in FIG. 3 is about 1.2 cm at the maximum. Even if the vertical distance between the points B and C is too small, there is no effect of eliminating recumbency, so it is preferable that the distance be 0.5 cm or more. Further, since the dimension that can be stretched by the iron changes depending on the elongation of the material, the weaving density of the yarn, and the like, it is preferable to determine the distance between the points B and C by checking the actual stretchable dimension according to the fabric used.

1 front crease line 2 crossover line 3 inner crotch line 4 side crotch line 6 small crotch line 8 front opening stop 10 front body 20 cut fabric a side b C Two points spaced apart on the small crotch line S Ironing direction

Claims (2)

In the crotch part of the pattern on the front of the pants, connect the two points B and C spaced on the small crotch line between the crossover line and the front opening stop, and the point A on the side line above the crossover line, The upper crotch part above the upper line segment AB is moved on the drawing so that the line segment AB overlaps with the lower line segment AC, and the line is redrawn and corrected so that the small crotch line continues smoothly. Create a trouser front body pattern, cut the fabric based on the front body pattern and the back body pattern of the trouser, and use the fabric bias in the cut front body fabric to stretch the small crotch part ironed on, appropriate and Koguri size, method of manufacturing the pants, characterized in that the sewing and fabric of the rear body and the fabric of the front body, which was the ironing process.
The method for producing trousers according to claim 1, wherein a vertical interval between two points B and C on the small crotch line is 0.5 to 1.2 cm.

Images