CN112244402B - Drawing method for U-shaped trousers for women - Google Patents

Drawing method for U-shaped trousers for women Download PDF

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CN112244402B
CN112244402B CN202011141924.5A CN202011141924A CN112244402B CN 112244402 B CN112244402 B CN 112244402B CN 202011141924 A CN202011141924 A CN 202011141924A CN 112244402 B CN112244402 B CN 112244402B
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point
line segment
line
trousers
waist
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CN112244402A (en
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陈文强
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Qingdao Aida Fashion Design Co.,Ltd.
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Xijing University
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/08Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed

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Abstract

The invention discloses a drawing method for U-shaped trousers for women, which comprises the following steps: the method comprises the steps of drawing a wrench trouser piece structure net sample plate, drawing a screw trouser piece structure and drawing a waist-inserting saving net sample plate. The spanner trousers piece structure contains the drawing of the front small crotch, the rear large crotch and the inner side of the trouser legs of the female trousers. The screw trousers piece structure comprises the drawing of the front fly, the rear fly and the outer side of the trouser legs of the female trousers. The structure of the wrench trouser sheet is similar to that of a wrench, the structure of the screw trouser sheet is similar to that of a screw, and the cutting of the screw trouser sheet is completed by the front and rear inner side lines and the front and rear U-shaped parting lines of the wrench trouser sheet. The waist opening of the screw trouser sheet structure is provided with a waist insertion province, and the waist insertion province is internally provided with a trouser insertion pocket. The method of the invention carries out drawing according to the panty size, adopts the spanner and screw structure drawing to omit the structure of the outer side seam and the inner side seam of the panty, not only shortens the manufacturing route of the panty in drawing, cutting and sewing, but also reduces the production cost.

Description

Drawing method for U-shaped trousers for women
Technical Field
The invention relates to a drawing method for women's trousers, in particular to a drawing method for U-shaped women's trousers.
Background
The cutting and sewing of panties has been long in the market. In recent years, with the popularity and changing style of panties, there has been an increasing demand for cutting and making techniques. The traditional four-piece trouser leg structure is more common and can not meet the needs of customers in the aspect of expressing the beauty of female body types.
The traditional four-piece trouser leg structure has a lot of defects in the aspects of drawing, cutting, sewing, shaping and the like:
(1) In the aspect of drawing, more sizes are needed for drawing, and the sizes among parts are unscientific in setting, so that the trousers are disordered in model and unstable in structure;
(2) In the aspect of cutting, two front pieces and two rear pieces are required to be cut to meet the shape of trousers, side seams are uneven when the connected parts are not controlled properly during cutting, the crotch camber does not conform to the human body, the trouser legs are twisted when the made trousers are made, and the crotch thread is not correct;
(3) In the aspect of sewing, the procedures are more, one pair of trousers needs dozens of procedures to be completed, so that the production cost is increased, the operation of personnel is complex, and more equipment is applied;
(4) In the aspect of shaping, the technical difficulty of shaping is increased, in order to meet the requirement of three-dimensional shaping, the shaping and ironing technology is required for some trousers, and workers with new hands obviously cannot be competent for the shaping and ironing technology.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a drawing method for U-shaped trousers for women, which solves the problem of disorder of trousers pattern caused by unmatched drawing sizes of the existing trousers for women, drawings according to the trousers size, and adopts a spanner and screw structure to draw so as to omit the structure of an outer side seam and an inner side seam of the trousers, thereby not only shortening the manufacturing route of the trousers in drawing, cutting and sewing, but also reducing the production cost.
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a method for drawing U-shaped panties, which comprises: the method comprises the steps of drawing a clean sample plate of a wrench trouser sheet structure, drawing a bolt trouser sheet structure and drawing a waist-inserting clean sample plate. Wherein, the clean model drawing of spanner trousers piece structure contains: drawing a rectangle bifa, wherein a is an upper trouser length point, b is a lower trouser length point, f is a back crotch high point, i is a front crotch deviation point, a line segment bi = a line segment af =0.42 × number, and a line segment ab = a line segment if =0.25 × type; extending a line segment if from the points i and f to a front leg root point j and a rear leg root point e respectively, wherein the line segment ij =0.078 × type, and the line segment fe =0.08 × type; drawing a crotch middle point g and a front crotch high point h on a line segment if, wherein the line segment jg =0.2 × type, and ih =0.015 × type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment if from the point h to the outside of the rectangle bifa to a front crotch length point r, wherein the line segment jg = hr; extending a line segment af from the point f to a point n of the back crotch length, wherein the line segment fn =0.22 × type; from a point f, making a bisector segment of & lt ifn to a crotch backward-bending point p, wherein the segment fp =0.064 x type, from a point h, making a bisector segment of & lt rhf to a crotch forward-bending point q, and wherein the segment hq =0.045 x type; straight lines are connected with points e and n and points j and r, a central point t is drawn on a line segment jr, the t is a front crotch vertical point, three-part points k and o are drawn on a line segment en, the k is a back crotch second vertical point, the o is a back crotch first vertical point, the point o is close to the point n, a vertical line segment of the line segment jr is drawn from the point t to the outside of a triangle jrh to a front crotch camber point s, a vertical line segment of the line segment en is drawn from the point o and the k to the outside of a triangle fne to a back crotch first camber point m and a back crotch second camber point l, the line segment ts =0.036 x, the line segment om =0.044 x, and the line segment kl =0.027 x; drawing a middle point d1 on a line segment bi, wherein d1 is a back-hanging point of the lower middle crotch, drawing a middle point c1 on a line segment af, wherein c1 is a back-hanging point of the upper middle crotch, drawing perpendicular segments of the line segments bi and af from the points d1 and c1 to the front point d of the lower middle crotch and the back point c of the upper middle crotch outside a rectangle bifa respectively, wherein the line segment d1d =0.023 x type, and the line segment c1c =0.017 x type; line segments are respectively connected with the points a, c, e, l, m, n, p, g, q, r, s, j, d and b to form the outline of the wrench trouser structure, wherein an arc ace is a rear inner side line, an arc bdj is a front inner side line, an arc elmn is a rear U dividing line, and an arc jtsr is a front U dividing line.
The screw trousers piece structure and the waist-inserting province and clean sample plate drawing contain: drawing a line segment a1b1= a line segment ab, drawing a midpoint a2 of the line segment a1b1, wherein a2 is the midpoint of the side trouser leg opening, drawing a segment perpendicular to the line segment a1b1 from the point a2 to a side province midpoint w, and the line segment a2w =0.56 × number; drawing a side province point v2 on a line segment a2w, wherein the line segment wv2=0.235 × type; drawing a parallel line of a line segment a1b1 from the point w to both sides to a front side waist point v1 and a rear side waist point x1 respectively, wherein the line segment wv1= wx1= line segment 0.036 × type; making line segments from points v1 and x1 to the front waist opening point u1 and the back waist opening point y1, respectively, line segment v1u1=0.25 × type, line segment x1y1=0.27 × type, angle u1v1v2=99 degrees, angle v2x1y1=102 degrees; respectively taking line segments v1u1 and x1y1 as sides to make rectangles v1u1uv and x1y1yx towards opposite sides of a line segment a2w, wherein the rectangles v1u1uv and x1y1yx are respectively used as waist head structures of a front piece and a rear piece, v is a front side waist width point, u is a front waist width point, x is a rear side waist width point, y is a rear waist width point, and uu1= vv1= xx1= yy1; drawing a line segment from a point u1 to a front gate point u2, and enabling ≈ u2u1v1=94 degrees and u1u2=0.132 × type; making a line segment from the point y1 to a rear fly point z, and enabling ═ x1y1z =90 degrees and the line segment y1z = line segment u1u2; the arc line a1U2 of the front inner side line and the front U-shaped parting line of the screw trouser sheet structure is drawn by relying on the arc line bdjsr of the front inner side line and the front U-shaped parting line of the wrench trouser sheet structure, and the arc line b1z of the rear inner side line and the rear U-shaped parting line of the screw trouser sheet structure is drawn by relying on the arc line acelmn of the rear inner side line and the rear U-shaped parting line of the wrench trouser sheet structure; connecting arc a1u2, line segment u2u1, u1u, uv, vv1, v1v2, v2x1, x1x, xy, yy1 and y1z, arc zb1 and line segment b1a2, form the outline of the structure of the screw trouser sheet, wherein vv1v2x1x forms the waist insertion province.
Preferably, the length of uu1 is determined according to the type of trousers comprising: the trousers comprise low waist trousers, middle waist trousers and high waist trousers, wherein uu1 of the low waist trousers is 0, uu1 of the middle waist trousers is 3.0-5.0 cm, and uu1 of the high waist trousers is 6.0-10 cm.
Preferably, the wrench trouser piece structure, the screw trouser piece structure and the wool sample plate for inserting the waist province are used for drawing, and the hem is arranged at the trouser opening and the seam is arranged at other parts on the basis of the wrench trouser piece structure, the screw trouser piece structure and the net sample plate for inserting the waist province.
Preferably, on the basis of the wrench trouser piece structure, the screw trouser piece structure and the waist-inserting province net sample plate, 1.0cm sewing heads are arranged at other parts except for the 3.0cm folded edge arranged at the trouser opening.
Preferably, the sewing of the screw trouser structure comprises the steps of folding the wool-like plate of the screw trouser along the dart point of the waist insertion dart, sewing up and down by 2.0cm respectively by taking the dart point as the center, adopting a reverse turning machine for reinforcing and sewing, sewing up and down by 4.0cm by taking the waist end of the waist insertion dart as the starting point, and adopting a 301 flat seam stitch for sewing.
Preferably, the middle part between the waistband and the dart tip is a big pocket, and the two ends of the big pocket are provided with cut-outs with the cut-out depth of 0.5cm; the big edge of the pocket cloth at the upper layer is sewn with the upper edge seam of the waist insert, the pocket cloth at the lower layer is matched and sewn with the pocket cloth at the upper layer, and the sewing modes are all '1.01.01/3.01' shuttle-type stitches.
Preferably, the front surfaces of the two screw trousers pieces are sewn with the back upper crotch in the position opposite to the back fly, and the sewing mode is a shuttle stitch of 1.01.01/3.01.
Preferably, the structure of the screw trousers piece and the sewing of the wrench trousers piece are realized in such a way that the wrench trousers piece is divided into a left trousers piece and a right trousers piece, the two wrench trousers pieces are sewn along an arc npg, the back crotch is bent, 1.0cm of sewing head is fastened and ironed at the U-shaped parting line of the wrench trousers piece, the fastened and ironed wrench trousers piece is continuously inserted into the U-shaped parting position of the screw trousers piece for matched sewing, a pressing sewing process is adopted, the sewing mode is 2.02.01/3.01 shuttle-type stitch, the fastening and ironing process is adopted to iron 1.0cm of sewing head on the U-shaped parting line at the front side of the wrench trousers piece, and the front U-shaped parting line of the screw trousers piece and the wrench trousers piece is sewn by utilizing the embedding process of a fur machine.
Preferably, the method further comprises: drawing a waist lining; the width of the loin lining is 5-7 cm, and the length = uv + xy +2.0cm.
Preferably, the method further comprises: drawing a back pocket cover with a flap; the width of the belt flap is 2-3 cm, the width after seam seaming is 0.5-1 cm, and the length is 8-9 cm; the length of the back pocket cover is 10-11 cm, and the width of the back pocket cover is 5-7 cm.
The method for drawing the U-shaped female trousers solves the problem that the trousers version is not adjusted due to the unmatched drawing sizes of the conventional female trousers, and has the following advantages:
according to the method, the drawing is carried out by adopting the spanner and screw structure, so that the drawing step of the female trousers is simplified; the tailoring technology of combining the side pocket and the waist insertion province into one is adopted, so that the tailoring efficiency is improved; the process technology of the embedded stitch (fur machine) is adopted, so that the trouser piece splicing efficiency is improved; the drawing method with the structural formula of the wrench and the screw omits the structure of the outer side seam and the inner side seam of the trousers, thereby not only shortening the manufacturing route of the trousers in drawing, cutting and sewing, but also reducing the production cost.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the wrench trousers piece of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a schematic structural view of the screw trousers piece of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is a drawing 1 of the structure of the screw trousers piece of the present invention.
Fig. 4 is a drawing 2 of the structure of the screw trousers piece of the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of the seams for placing the wrench trousers piece and the screw trousers piece.
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the side dart sewing and pocket cutting process of the present invention.
FIG. 7 is a schematic view of the pocket cloth cutting and sewing.
FIG. 8 is a schematic view of the pocket fabric lamination process of the present invention.
FIG. 9 is a rear upper crotch seam of the screw pant sheet of the present invention.
FIG. 10 is a schematic view of the back crotch seam and the sewing and ironing process of the wrench pants piece of the present invention.
FIG. 11 is a schematic view of the back panel wrench insertion stitching of the present invention.
FIG. 12 is a schematic view of the front piece wrench sewing and fastening process of the present invention.
FIG. 13 is a schematic view of a U-shaped sewing process of front pants pieces according to the present invention.
Fig. 14 is a schematic view of a process for manufacturing a lumbar spine according to the present invention.
FIG. 15 is a schematic view of the front panel crotch seaming process of the present invention.
FIG. 16 is a schematic view of the process for sewing and zipping the waist lining of the present invention.
FIG. 17 is a schematic view of the process for sewing the belt loops and the placket, in accordance with the present invention.
FIG. 18 is a schematic view showing the appearance of the sewn flap and pants of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the experimental examples of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described experimental examples are only a part of the experimental examples of the present invention, and not all of the experimental examples. Based on the experimental examples in the present invention, all other experimental examples obtained by a person of ordinary skill in the art without creative efforts shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1
A method of making a U-shaped panty, the method comprising: drawing a structure of the wrench trousers and drawing a structure of the screw trousers. Wherein, spanner trousers piece structure has class spanner (or class U type) structure, and it contains: the front small crotch, the rear large crotch and the inner side of the trouser legs. The screw pant structure has a screw-like (or T-like) structure comprising: the front fly, the rear fly and the outer side of the trouser legs. Drawing the screw trousers piece is completed according to the front inner side line, the rear inner side line, the front U-shaped dividing line and the rear U-shaped dividing line of the wrench trousers piece. The waist opening of the screw trouser sheet structure is provided with a waist insertion pocket, and the waist insertion pocket is arranged in the waist insertion pocket. The wrench trouser piece structure and the screw trouser piece structure are both required to be sewn and folded, the waistline of the screw trouser piece is provided with a self-carrying waistband, and the waistline is cut by adopting a homogeneous and homochromatic material. The wrench trouser sheet is sewed at the back U-shaped division position by buckling and pressing seams, and the front trouser sheet is sewed at the U-shaped division position by an embedded stitch (or a fur machine). The hidden zipper is arranged at the front fly of the female trousers, the decorative bag cover is arranged at the hip of the rear trousers piece, the foot openings of the trousers are manufactured by a rolling seam process, and the belt climbers are embedded on the waist heads. The women trousers are made of elastic cloth. Taking the panty size 160/68A (size/type, i.e. height/waist circumference) as an example, the specific steps are as follows:
(1) Drawing of wrench trouser structure
As shown in fig. 1, a schematic structural diagram of the wrench pants piece of the present invention is drawn by drawing a rectangle bifa, where a is an upper pants length point, b is a lower pants length point, f is a back crotch height point, i is a front crotch offset point, a line segment bi = a line segment af =0.42 × number =0.42 × 160cm =67.2cm, and a line segment ab = a line segment if =0.25 × type =0.25 × 68cm =17cm. Extending a line segment if from point i to the anterior leg root point j, the line segment ij =0.078 × type =0.078 × 68cm =5.304cm. Extending the line segment if from the point f to the hind leg root point e, the line segment fe =0.08 × type =0.08 × 68cm =5.44cm. The crotch center point g is plotted on a line segment if, and the line segment jg =0.2 × type =0.2 × 68cm = =13.6cm. The front crotch height point h is plotted on a line segment ig, and the line segment ih =0.015 × type =0.015 × 68cm =1.02cm. From the point h, a perpendicular segment of the line if is drawn outside the rectangle bifa to the front crotch length point r, and the line jg = hr. Extending the line segment af from the point f to the crotch length point n, the line segment fn =0.22 × type =0.22 × 68cm =14.96cm. From a bisector segment of ≈ ifn to a crotch back-bending point p, a segment fp =0.064 × type =0.064 × 68cm =4.352cm. From a bisecting line segment of @ rhf taken as the point h to the crotch camber oblique point q, the line segment hq =0.045 × type =0.045 × 68cm =3.06cm.
Straight lines connect points e and n, points j and r. Drawing a middle point t on the line jr, wherein t is a front crotch vertical point, drawing a perpendicular segment of the line jr from the point t to the outside of the triangle jrh to a front crotch camber point s, and drawing a line segment ts =0.036 × type =0.036 × 68cm =2.448cm. Drawing points k and o of a third on a line segment en, wherein k is a back crotch second vertical point, o is a back crotch first vertical point, the point o is close to a point n, a perpendicular segment of the line segment en is drawn from the points o and k to the outside of the triangle fne to a back crotch first curvature point m and a back crotch second curvature point l, the line segment om =0.044 × type =0.044 × 68cm =2.992cm, and the line segment kl =0.027 × type =0.027 × 68cm =1.836cm.
Drawing a middle point d1 on a line segment bi, wherein d1 is a lower-middle-crotch back-hanging point, drawing a middle point c1 on a line segment af, wherein c1 is an upper-middle-crotch back-hanging point, drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segments bi and af from the points d1 and c1 to a lower-middle-crotch front point d and an upper-middle-crotch back point c respectively outward of the rectangle bifa, drawing a line segment d1d =0.023 × type =0.023 × 68cm =1.564cm, and drawing a line segment c1c =0.017 × type =0.017 × 68cm =1.156cm.
The contour of the wrench trousers piece is formed by straight line connecting points a and b and arc line connecting points a, c, e, l, m, n, p, g, q, r, s, j, d and b, the arc line ace is a rear inner side line, the arc line bdj is a front inner side line, the arc line elmn is a rear U dividing line, and the arc line jtsr is a front U dividing line, and is used for drawing and cutting a structure.
(2) Drawing of screw trouser sheet structure
As shown in fig. 2, a line segment a1b1= ab =0.25 × type =0.25 × 68cm =17cm, a midpoint a2 of a1b1 is drawn, a2 is a midpoint of a side pant opening, a segment perpendicular to the line segment a1b1 is drawn from the point a2 to a side dart midpoint w, and a line segment a2w =0.56 × no =0.56 × 160cm =89.6cm. A parallel line of the line segment a1b1 is drawn from the point w to both sides to the front waist point v1 and the rear waist point x1, respectively, and the line segment wv1= wx1=0.036 × type =0.036 × 68cm =2.448cm. A lateral dart point v2 is drawn on a line segment a2w, a line segment wv2=0.235 × type =0.235 × 68cm =15.98cm, line segments are drawn from points v1 and x1 to a front waist opening point u1 and a rear waist opening point y1, respectively, an angle u1v1v2=99 degrees, an angle v2x1y1=102 degrees, a line segment v1u1=0.25 × type =0.25 × 68cm =17cm, and a line segment x1y1=0.27 × type =0.27 × 68cm =18.36cm.
The line segments v1u1 and x1y1 are respectively used as sides to draw rectangles v1u1uv and x1y1yx towards the opposite side of the line segment a2w, the rectangles v1u1uv and x1y1yx are respectively used as the waist structures of the front pants piece and the rear pants piece, v is a front waist width point, u is a front waist width point, x is a rear waist width point, y is a rear waist width point, and uu1= vv1= xx1= yy1, which is set to be 3.5cm. Making a line segment from a point u1 to a front door opening point u2, and enabling ═ u2u1v1=180-86 degrees =94 degrees, and u1u2=0.132 × type =0.132 × 68cm =8.976cm. From a point y1, a line segment is drawn to a back door opening point z, and the line segment y1z =90 degrees and the line segment y1z = a line segment u1u2.
The arc a1U2 of the front inner side line and the front U-shaped parting line of the screw trouser sheet is drawn by relying on the arc bdjsr of the front inner side line and the front U-shaped parting line of the wrench trouser sheet, and the arc b1z of the rear inner side line and the rear U-shaped parting line of the screw trouser sheet is drawn by relying on the arc acelmn of the rear inner side line and the rear U-shaped parting line of the wrench trouser sheet (see fig. 3 and 4). Connecting arc line a1u2, line segment u2u1, u1u, uv, vv1, v1v2, v2x1, x1x, xy, yy1 and y1z, arc line zb1 and line segment b1a2, forming the outline of the screw trouser sheet, and being used for drawing and cutting the structure, wherein vv1v2x1x forms the waist insertion province.
(3) Drawing of wool pattern plate of wrench trouser piece and screw trouser piece
As shown in figure 5, the schematic drawing of the sewing of the wrench trouser piece and the screw trouser piece is that on the basis of drawing, sewing ends and folded edges are arranged for cutting, and 1.0cm sewing ends are arranged at other parts except for 3.0cm (fixed number) of the folded edges arranged at the trouser opening for cutting cloth in the warp direction, so as to generate a wool sample plate. The cloth is made of elastic material (such as oxford).
(4) Waist insertion of screw trousers piece and sewing of pocket thereof
As shown in fig. 6 to 9, the waist opening of the female trousers is inserted into the waist province and the sewing method of the pocket is provided. Folding the wool-like plate of the screw trousers piece along the dart point of the waist insertion province, sewing up and down for 2.0cm respectively by taking the dart point as the center, adopting a reverse turning machine for reinforcement sewing, sewing up and down for 4.0cm by taking the waist head of the waist insertion province as the starting point, and adopting a 301 flat seam stitch for sewing, as shown in figure 6.
The middle part between the waistband and the dart tip is a big pocket, two ends of the big pocket are cut with the cutting depth of 0.5cm. The pocket cloth is cut by adopting the material with the same property as the screw trousers pieces. The length of the pocket cloth is 28cm, the mouth of the pocket cloth is 16cm, the width under the pocket cloth is 14cm, the width on the pocket cloth is 15cm, the corners of the opposite sides of the mouth of the pocket cloth are cut into round corners, and the lower end of the mouth of the pocket cloth is cut into round corners, which is shown in fig. 7.
The sewing method of pocket cloth is to sew the large edge of the pocket cloth on the upper layer with the upper edge sewing head of the waist insert, the sewing mode is '1.01.01/3.01' shuttle stitch, and the sewing head width is 1.0cm. Continuously turning the upper layer pocket cloth, and sewing an open line of 0.8cm at the edge of the large pocket cloth opening. The lower pocket cloth and the upper pocket cloth are matched and sewn, the sewing mode is a shuttle stitch of 1.01.01/3.01, the width of a sewing head is 1.0cm, and three edges of the pocket cloth are processed by an overlock process. The pocket open thread is sewed at the pocket on the front side of the screw trouser piece in a mode of 2.02.01/3.01 shuttle stitch.
(4) Back upper crotch seam of screw trousers piece
The front surfaces of the two screw trousers pieces are sewn with the back crotch opposite to the back front fly, the sewing mode is a shuttle stitch of 1.01.01/3.01, the width of the sewing head is 1.0cm, and the sewing head is shown in figure 9.
(5) Sewing of wrench trouser sheet and screw trouser sheet
As shown in figures 10-13, it is a sewing method of the spanner piece for female trousers. The wrench trousers piece is divided into a left trousers piece and a right trousers piece, the back crotch is bent after sewing, namely an arc npg, 1.0cm of seam is fastened and ironed at the U-shaped parting line of the wrench trousers piece, and the fastening and ironing temperature is 120 ℃. And continuously inserting the buckled and ironed wrench trousers piece into the U-shaped division position of the screw trousers piece for matching sewing, and adopting a pressing sewing process, wherein the sewing mode is a shuttle stitch of 2.02.01/3.01. The front U-shaped parting line of the wrench trouser piece is ironed by 1.0cm by adopting a buckling and ironing process, and the front U-shaped parting line of the screw trouser piece and the wrench trouser piece is sewed by utilizing an embedding process of a fur machine.
(6) Cutting and sewing waist lining, belt flap and back pocket cover
As shown in FIGS. 14 to 18, the waist lining, the belt flap and the back flap of the female trousers are cut and sewn. The waist lining is made of a material with the same properties as the screw trousers piece, the width of the waist lining is 6.0cm, and the length = uv + xy +2.0cm. The bottom edge of the waist lining is buckled and ironed by 1.0cm for sewing the waist, the upper edge of the waist lining and the waist opening of the trousers piece are sewn by adopting a bobbin sewing process, and the sewing mode is a shuttle stitch of 1.06.01/3.01.
The front crotch (namely an arc rqg) is sewn by adopting a flat seam stitch, an invisible zipper is arranged at the front fly (namely u1u 2), and the front crotch is sewn by adopting a pressing sewing process, wherein the sewing mode is a shuttle stitch of 2.02.01/3.01.
And sewing a decorative front fly line at the front piece front fly, wherein the distance from the front fly is 3.0cm.
Six belt climbers are arranged and are respectively positioned around the waistband, and the distance between every two adjacent belt climbers is equal. The width of the belt flap is 2.4cm, the width after the seam is rolled up is 0.8cm, the length is 8.5cm, and the belt flap is sewn by a knotter.
The back pocket cover is a decorative bag, the length multiplied by the width of the pocket cover is 10.5 multiplied by 6.0cm, the bobbin is sewn and the pocket cover is adopted, the length multiplied by the width after sewing is 8.5 multiplied by 4.0cm, and the two lower corners of the pocket cover are in round angle shapes.
The trouser openings of the trousers are sewn by adopting turned edges.
While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be taken as limiting the invention. Various modifications and alterations to this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the foregoing description. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be limited only by the attached claims.

Claims (10)

1. A method for drawing a U-shaped panty, the method comprising: drawing a clean sample plate of a wrench trouser sheet structure, drawing a bolt trouser sheet structure and drawing a waist-inserting clean-saving sample plate;
wherein, the clean model drawing of spanner trousers piece structure contains:
drawing a rectangle bifa, wherein a is an upper trouser length point, b is a lower trouser length point, f is a back crotch high point, i is a front crotch deviation point, a line segment bi = a line segment af =0.42 × number, and a line segment ab = a line segment if =0.25 × type; extending a line segment if from the points i and f to a front leg root point j and a rear leg root point e respectively, wherein the line segment ij =0.078 × type, and the line segment fe =0.08 × type; drawing a crotch middle point g and a front crotch high point h on a line segment if, wherein the line segment jg =0.2 × type, and ih =0.015 × type; drawing a perpendicular line segment of a line segment if from the point h to the outside of the rectangle bifa to a front crotch length point r, wherein the line segment jg = hr; extending line segment af from point f to crotch length point n, line segment fn =0.22 × type; from a point f, making a bisector segment of & lt ifn to a crotch backward-bending point p, wherein the segment fp =0.064 x type, from a point h, making a bisector segment of & lt rhf to a crotch forward-bending point q, and wherein the segment hq =0.045 x type;
straight lines are connected with points e and n and points j and r, a central point t is drawn on a line segment jr, the t is a front crotch vertical point, three-part points k and o are drawn on a line segment en, the k is a back crotch second vertical point, the o is a back crotch first vertical point, the point o is close to the point n, a vertical line segment of the line segment jr is drawn from the point t to the outside of a triangle jrh to a front crotch camber point s, a vertical line segment of the line segment en is drawn from the point o and the k to the outside of a triangle fne to a back crotch first camber point m and a back crotch second camber point l, the line segment ts =0.036 x, the line segment om =0.044 x, and the line segment kl =0.027 x;
drawing a center point d1 on a line segment bi, wherein d1 is a lower crotch rear vertical point, drawing a center point c1 on a line segment af, wherein c1 is an upper crotch rear vertical point, drawing a perpendicular segment of the line segments bi and af from the points d1 and c1 to the outside of a rectangle bifa to a lower crotch front point d and an upper crotch rear point c, wherein the line segment d1d =0.023 x type, and the line segment c1c =0.017 x type;
connecting points a, c, e, l, m, n, p, g, q, r, s, j, d and b with line segments respectively to form the outline of the wrench trouser structure, wherein an arc ace is a rear inner side line, an arc bdj is a front inner side line, an arc elmn is a rear U dividing line, and an arc jtsr is a front U dividing line;
the screw trousers piece structure and the waist insertion clean-saving sample plate drawing comprise:
drawing a line segment a1b1= a line segment ab, drawing a midpoint a2 of the line segment a1b1, wherein a2 is the midpoint of the side trouser leg opening, drawing a segment perpendicular to the line segment a1b1 from the point a2 to a side province midpoint w, and the line segment a2w =0.56 × number; drawing a lateral provincial point v2 on a line segment a2w, the line segment wv2=0.235 × type; drawing a parallel line of a line segment a1b1 from the point w to both sides to a front side waist point v1 and a rear side waist point x1 respectively, wherein the line segment wv1= wx1= line segment 0.036 × type; making line segments from points v1 and x1 to front waist opening point u1 and back waist opening point y1, respectively, line segment v1u1=0.25 × type, line segment x1y1=0.27 × type, angle u1v1v2=99 degrees, angle v2x1y1=102 degrees;
respectively taking line segments v1u1 and x1y1 as sides to make rectangles v1u1uv and x1y1yx towards opposite sides of a line segment a2w, wherein the rectangles v1u1uv and x1y1yx are respectively used as waist head structures of a front piece and a rear piece, v is a front side waist width point, u is a front waist width point, x is a rear side waist width point, y is a rear waist width point, and uu1= vv1= xx1= yy1; drawing a line segment from a point u1 to a front gate point u2, and enabling ≈ u2u1v1=94 degrees and u1u2=0.132 × type; making a line segment from the point y1 to a rear fly point z, and enabling ═ x1y1z =90 degrees and the line segment y1z = line segment u1u2;
the arc line a1U2 of the front inner side line and the front U-shaped parting line of the screw trouser sheet structure is drawn by relying on the arc line bdjsr of the front inner side line and the front U-shaped parting line of the wrench trouser sheet structure, and the arc line b1z of the rear inner side line and the rear U-shaped parting line of the screw trouser sheet structure is drawn by relying on the arc line acelmn of the rear inner side line and the rear U-shaped parting line of the wrench trouser sheet structure;
connecting arc a1u2, line segment u2u1, u1u, uv, vv1, v1v2, v2x1, x1x, xy, yy1 and y1z, arc zb1 and line segment b1a1, form the outline of the structure of the screw trouser sheet, wherein vv1v2x1x forms the waist insertion province.
2. Method for making U-shaped panty profiles according to claim 1, characterized in that said uu1 length is determined according to the type of trousers comprising: the trousers comprise low waist trousers, middle waist trousers and high waist trousers, wherein uu1 of the low waist trousers is 0, uu1 of the middle waist trousers is 3.0-5.0 cm, and uu1 of the high waist trousers is 6.0-10cm.
3. The method for drawing U-shaped ladies' trousers according to claim 1, wherein the drawings of the wrench trouser leg structure, the screw trouser leg structure and the wool sample plate of the waist inserting province are carried out on the basis of the wrench trouser leg structure, the screw trouser leg structure and the net sample plate of the waist inserting province, the trouser leg opening is provided with a folded edge, and other parts are provided with a seam head.
4. A method for drawing a U-shaped panty according to claim 3, wherein 1.0cm of sewing is provided at other parts except for the 3.0cm of hems at the opening of the panty on the basis of the structure of the wrench panty, the structure of the screw panty and the net template of the waist insert province.
5. The method for drawing U-shaped panties as recited in claim 3, wherein said sewing of screw pant structure comprises folding the wool-like plate of screw pant in half along the dart of insertion waist dart, sewing up and down each 2.0cm around dart, sewing up by reversing and reinforcing, sewing up by 4.0cm from the waist of insertion waist dart, and sewing up by 301 flush stitch.
6. The drawing method of U-shaped panties as recited in claim 5, wherein the middle part between the waistband and the dart is the mouth of the pocket, cut-outs are made at both ends of the mouth of the pocket, and the depth of the cut-outs is 0.5cm; the big edge of the pocket cloth at the upper layer is sewn with the upper edge seam head of the waist insert, the pocket cloth at the lower layer is matched and sewn with the pocket cloth at the upper layer, and the sewing modes are all '1.01.01/301' shuttle-type stitches.
7. The method for drawing U-shaped panties as recited in claim 3, wherein said screw trousers piece structure is sewn by sewing front faces of two screw trousers pieces opposite to the back upper crotch at the back fly in a manner of "1.01.01/301" shuttle stitch.
8. The method for drawing U-shaped trousers for women according to claim 3, wherein the structure of the screw trousers pieces and the sewing of the wrench trousers pieces are divided into a left trousers piece and a right trousers piece, the two wrench trousers pieces are sewn with a back crotch bent along an arc npg, a 1.0cm sewing head is fastened and ironed at the U-shaped parting line of the wrench trousers pieces, the fastened and ironed wrench trousers pieces are continuously inserted into the U-shaped parting position of the screw trousers pieces for matching sewing, a pressing sewing process is adopted, the sewing mode is a 2.02.01/301 shuttle stitch, the fastening and ironing process is adopted to reverse the front U-shaped parting line of the wrench trousers pieces by 1.0cm sewing head, and the front U-shaped parting line of the screw trousers pieces and the front U-shaped parting line of the wrench trousers pieces are sewn by using the embedding process of a fur machine.
9. A method of making a U-shaped panty according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises: drawing a waist lining; the loin is 5-7cm wide and = uv + xy +2.0cm long.
10. A method of making a U-shaped panty according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises: drawing a picture with a flap and a back pocket cover; the width of the tape is 2-3cm, the width after seam winding is 0.5-1cm, and the length is 8-9cm; the length of the rear pocket cover is 10-11cm, and the width of the rear pocket cover is 5-7cm.
CN202011141924.5A 2020-10-22 2020-10-22 Drawing method for U-shaped trousers for women Active CN112244402B (en)

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JP5060679B2 (en) * 2009-04-15 2012-10-31 株式会社オンワードホールディングス Pants and methods for making pants
JP5335599B2 (en) * 2009-07-29 2013-11-06 株式会社オンワードホールディングス How to make pants
CN107536123B (en) * 2017-08-02 2024-03-15 江苏开放大学 Multi-piece type integrated abdomen shaping trousers and plate making method thereof

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