CN113519921A

CN113519921A - Fitting comfortable garment structure and tailoring process thereof

Info

Publication number: CN113519921A
Application number: CN202110563132.5A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 梁华; 李文辉; 吴琳琳; 万蕾
Original assignee: Shandong Show Long Garment Co ltd
Current assignee: Shandong Show Long Garment Co ltd
Priority date: 2021-05-24
Filing date: 2021-05-24
Publication date: 2021-10-22

Abstract

The invention relates to a fit comfortable garment structure and a tailoring process thereof, belonging to the technical field of garment design and processing, wherein the garment structure comprises a garment body cut piece, sleeve cut pieces and a cap cut piece; the cut pieces of the clothes body comprise one piece of front and back upper cut pieces, two pieces of front middle cut pieces, two pieces of front lower cut pieces and one piece of back lower cut piece; the sleeve cutting piece comprises two large sleeve pieces and two small sleeve pieces, wherein the large sleeve pieces and the small sleeve pieces are provided with front bending amounts at sleeve shafts to form sleeve bending, sleeve inserting piece increments are arranged on the large sleeve pieces and the small sleeve pieces, and the upper ends of the small sleeve pieces are provided with clothing body side piece increments; the hat cut-parts comprise a hat side piece, a hat middle paste piece, two hat side pastes and two hat side patches. The clothing structure is cut and recombined through the cut pieces, can meet various action requirements, is not limited by styles and fabrics, achieves the optimal activity in structural design, and realizes the unbound state when a human body wears the clothing to move.

Description

Fitting comfortable garment structure and tailoring process thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to a fit comfortable garment structure and a tailoring process thereof, belonging to the technical field of garment design and processing.

Background

Along with the rapid development of social economy, the living standard of people is improved, the requirements on various aspects of clothes are higher and higher, and the comprehensive performance of the clothes is pursued to be optimal as much as possible. Two styles exist in the market at present, one style is a fashion style pursuing fit and body-building, but various uncomfortable feelings can occur during activities; one is a style pursuing comfort, which is often a loose structure, so that the fit is greatly reduced, or a fabric with elasticity is needed to achieve a relatively fit state, but the styles have limitations and cannot well achieve comprehensive performances of various aspects of the garment. If the clothes are fit and comfortable and are not limited by the style of the fabric, the current structure cannot be achieved, the problem is solved, and the clothes achieve the best comprehensive performance by upgrading and improving the structure. .

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention provides a fit comfortable garment structure and a tailoring process thereof, wherein the garment structure is divided and recombined through cut pieces, on the basis of fashionable style and fit structure, enough space is provided at main moving parts of a human body by upgrading and optimizing to meet various action requirements, the fit comfortable garment structure is not limited by style and fabric, the optimal moving amount is achieved on the structural design, and the unrestrained state is realized when the human body wears the garment to move.

The technical scheme for solving the technical problems is as follows: a fit comfortable garment structure comprises a garment body cut piece, sleeve cut pieces and a cap cut piece; the cut pieces of the clothes body comprise one piece of front and back upper cut pieces, two pieces of front middle cut pieces, two pieces of front lower cut pieces and one piece of back lower cut piece; the sleeve cutting piece comprises two large sleeve pieces and two small sleeve pieces, wherein the large sleeve pieces and the small sleeve pieces are provided with front bending amounts at sleeve shafts to form sleeve bending, sleeve inserting piece increments are arranged on the large sleeve pieces and the small sleeve pieces, and the upper ends of the small sleeve pieces are provided with clothing body side piece increments; the hat cutting pieces comprise one hat side piece, one hat middle patch, two hat side patches and two hat side patches;

the front sides of the front and rear upper garment pieces are sewn with the front middle garment piece, the rear sides of the front and rear upper garment pieces are sewn with the rear lower garment piece, the upper end of the rear lower garment piece is provided with a muff dart, the upper end edge of the front lower garment piece is sewn with the front middle garment piece, the upper end of the front lower garment piece is provided with a belly dart, the side edge of the front lower garment piece is sewn with the rear lower garment piece, and the side edge of the rear lower garment piece is provided with a waist dart;

the big sleeve pieces are sewn with two sides of the small sleeve pieces, two sides of the increment of the side piece of the small sleeve piece are sewn with the front middle cut piece and the rear lower cut piece, the upper end of the increment of the side piece of the small sleeve piece is sewn with the front lower cut piece, and the upper end of the big sleeve piece is sewn with the front upper cut piece, the front middle cut piece and the rear lower cut piece;

the lower end of the cap middle piece is sewn with the middle part of the upper end of the cap side piece, and two side edges of the cap middle piece are sewn with arcs on two sides of the upper end of the cap side piece; the cap middle paste is positioned on the inner side of the upper end of the cap middle sheet, the cap side pastes are positioned on the inner sides of the two ends of the cap side sheet, the outer ends of the cap side pastes are spliced with the cap side paste, the cap middle paste is sewn with the cap middle sheet and the cap side sheet, and the cap side paste is sewn with the cap middle paste, the cap side paste and the cap side sheet;

the lower end of the cap side piece is sewn with the inner arc line of the front and rear upper garment pieces, and zippers are stitched at the front and middle parts of the cap side piece, the front and rear upper garment pieces and the front and middle lower garment pieces.

On the basis of the technical scheme, the invention can be further improved as follows:

furthermore, the clothing body cut-parts still include two in the preceding middle garment piece and pocket in the right side one, be equipped with outer pocket on the preceding middle garment piece, outer pocket is equipped with the zip fastener, make in the preceding middle garment piece with the inboard of preceding middle garment piece, pocket in the right side with sew up in the preceding middle garment piece.

Furthermore, the garment body cut piece also comprises a lower hem patch and a front fly wind shielding patch, wherein the lower hem patch is positioned at the lower hem of the garment structure and is sewn with the front lower garment piece and the rear lower garment piece; the front fly is sewn in the front middle of the garment structure in a wind shielding mode, and the front fly is located on the lower layer of the zipper in a wind shielding mode.

Further, the sleeve cut pieces further comprise cuff stickers and cuff splices, the cuff of the big sleeve piece is sewn with the cuff stickers, and the cuff stickers are positioned on the inner sides of the big sleeve piece; the cuff pieces are symmetrical up and down, the small sleeve pieces are sewn after the cuff pieces are folded up and down, the two sides of the cuff pieces are sewn with the large sleeve pieces in a splicing manner, and the cuff pieces are made of elastic fabrics.

Further, the cap cut-parts also comprise a cap middle strip and a cap middle channel, the cap middle strip is attached to the inner side of the cap middle strip, the two ends of the cap middle strip are provided with free edges and are left with openings, the cap middle channel is attached to the inner side of the cap side piece, the two ends of the cap middle channel are provided with openings, the upper end of the cap side piece is provided with an opening, the lower end of the cap side piece is connected with the cap side piece through a splicing part, the left side and the right side of the two sides of the front middle part of the cap side piece pressing plate position are respectively provided with two front air holes in a rolling way, and the rear middle part of the cap side piece pressing plate position is provided with a rear air hole in a rolling way;

the face drawstring sequentially passes through the hat side sticker on one side, the hat middle strip and the hat side sticker on the other side, two ends of the face drawstring penetrate out of one front air hole on two sides, a buckle is installed on the face drawstring, the face drawstring penetrates through the other front air hole, the end of the face drawstring passes through a reserved opening in the lower end of the hat side collage, and a hanging clock is installed at the tail end of the face drawstring; the head drawstring is inserted into the cap middle strip and the cap middle channel, the head drawstring penetrates out of the rear air hole, a buckle is installed on the head drawstring, and the buckle on the head drawstring is located outside the rear air hole.

The invention also discloses a tailoring process of the clothing structure, which comprises the following steps:

according to the clothing size and style characteristics of national standards and enterprise standards and a known template printing method, the physical activity is added to the net size by combining specific fabric characteristics. Determining the sizes of key parts of the net body: the garment length, the chest circumference, the waist circumference, the hip circumference, the back width, the front chest width, the collar circumference, the sleeve length, the sleeve fertilizer and the head circumference, the net body size is added with the relaxation amount, the activities of 8-10 cm are added to the chest circumference, the waist circumference and the swing circumference, the activities of 3-4 cm are added to the sleeve fertilizer, and other parts are calculated according to the known formula and method;

(II) determining a basic model according to the style requirement and drawing, determining the segmentation and combination of the details of the whole cut-parts according to the style design, then performing province conversion and segmentation on the basic model, and making the clothes body cut-parts, the sleeve cut-parts and the hat cut-parts according to the change of the basic model structure;

firstly, the preparation of each cutting piece of the clothes body cutting piece is as follows:

rear sheet: designing a back collar line, wherein the back collar depth is 3.6cm, and the width of the 1/2 back collar is 9.3 cm; the shoulder province is transferred to the armhole position to form an armhole province at the protruding position of the rear scapula, a dividing line de is designed, the province is hidden in the dividing line de, namely the province is hidden in the upper garment piece, and the rear upper garment piece is separated; designing a waist province at the waist, designing a dividing line from the e' g line, and separating a lower section of the back sheet and a back side sheet;

front panel: designing a front collar line, wherein the front collar depth is 10.4cm, and the rear collar width of 1/2 is 8.9 cm; designing a dividing line j 'x' at a position 3.3cm above the chest circumference line, merging the chest dart into the dividing line j 'x', namely merging the chest dart into the upper garment pieces, and separating the front upper garment pieces; designing a vertical dividing line ml, transversely designing a belly on a nk', and separating a front middle cut piece and a front side piece;

the front and back panels were combined for structural changes: the front upper garment piece and the rear upper garment piece are spliced at the shoulder seam to form a basic shape of the whole front upper garment piece and the rear upper garment piece; splicing the front and rear side seams to form a whole front and rear side garment piece, designing a dividing line at the nk' belly part to extend to the rear piece, and dividing a rear lower garment piece, a front lower garment piece and a front and rear upper garment piece;

secondly, preparing each cutting piece of the sleeve cutting pieces as follows:

combine clothing body cut-parts to design: determining turning points of a garment body and sleeves on the basic types of the front and rear upper cut pieces, reducing the angle of the shoulder line, raising the shoulder line to form the front and rear upper cut pieces, dividing the basic type of the sleeves into a front piece and a rear piece by taking the central line of the sleeves as a standard, splicing the front and rear cut pieces at corresponding positions of the front and rear garment bodies respectively, rotating the sleeve cut pieces by taking the turning points as a standard to ensure that sleeve arc lines are tangent to a large armhole arc line, forming an overlapping amount between the rotated rear sleeve cut pieces and the garment bodies at the underarm part, independently extracting the overlapped parts to form sleeve inserting angle pieces, and splicing the sleeve inserting angle pieces and the basic type of the sleeves to form a whole piece;

designing sleeve bending: on a sleeve elbow line yz, the central line of the front sleeve fertilizer is deviated inwards by 0.7cm, namely the elbow bending direction is deviated 0.7cm, the central line of the rear sleeve fertilizer is deviated inwards by 1.5cm, namely the elbow bending direction is deviated 1.5cm, the central line of the front sleeve fertilizer is deviated outwards by 1.5cm, namely the elbow outward direction is deviated 1.5cm, a new vertical line of the central line of the sleeve fertilizer is made, the length of the vertical line is 1/2 cuff lengths, the vertical line is translated upwards, the central line of the new rear sleeve fertilizer is connected with the vertical line point of the cuff to form new cuff lines vw, v 'w' and v 'w', the bending force is larger if the deviation value is larger; the expansion amount of the rear sleeve seam line at the sleeve elbow line yz is overlapped on the front sleeve seam line, and the more the bending amount is, the more the expansion amount is;

designing a dividing line of the big sleeve and the small sleeve: the big sleeve piece and the small sleeve piece are mutually sewn by virtue of seams, the big sleeve seam line forms points t, z and v, and the small sleeve seam line forms points u, y and w; the upper part of the sleeve fertilizer is lost after the elbow is bent, and a part of the sleeve fertilizer is lost when the sleeve elbows are saved, so that the fertilizer lines of the big and small sleeves are supplemented to the outer arc to form a final big sleeve sheet; splicing the front middle garment piece and the rear lower garment piece at the small sleeve piece line sr to form a complete small sleeve piece;

thirdly, preparing each cutting piece of the hat cutting piece as follows:

the lower cap opening line AB is equal to the front and rear collar lines abh, and an arc line is drawn along the lower cap opening; the two sides at the top of the head are cut and saved, and the saving between the arc DE of the cap side sheet and the arc HD' of the cap middle sheet is saved; the outer opening of the cap forms a point E, F, H, G, and the connecting lines between the points draw a straight curve;

(III) sewing the cut pieces to obtain the garment structure.

Further, the specific operation of sewing the cut pieces in the step (iii) is as follows:

1) sewing the clothes body cut pieces: the front upper garment piece and the rear upper garment piece are sewn with the front middle garment piece, the front lower garment piece is sewn with the front middle garment piece and the rear lower garment piece respectively, the hem patch is sewn with the hem, the front fly shields the wind and is sewn with the front middle part of the right front garment piece, and the right inner pocket is sewn with the inside of the front middle garment piece;

2) sewing the sleeve cut pieces: the cuff patch is sewed with the small sleeve piece, the cuff patch is sewed with the cuff part corresponding to the big sleeve piece, and the big sleeve piece is sewed with the small sleeve piece;

3) sewing the sleeve cut pieces and the clothes body cut pieces: the small sleeve pieces are respectively sewed with the front middle garment piece, the front lower garment piece and the rear lower garment piece, and the large sleeve pieces are respectively sewed with the front upper garment piece, the front middle garment piece and the rear lower garment piece;

4) sewing the cut pieces of the hat: the cap side piece and the cap middle piece are sewed, the cap side paster is spliced with the cap side paster and the cap middle paster is sewed, and the cap paster is sewed with the cap side piece and the cap middle piece;

5) sewing the hat cut piece and the clothes body cut piece: the cap side piece is sewed with the front and the rear upper section garment pieces.

Further, the specific operation of sewing the cut pieces of the hat is as follows:

step one, cutting pieces and adhering linings: woven adhesive linings are adhered to the hat side paster, the hat side pasters and the hat channel, and a band-shaped hard lining is adhered to the hat to enable the outer contour of the hat to be stiff;

step two, cutting piece drawing and embedding strip: pulling 1.0cm inclined wire embedded strips at the positions corresponding to the outer openings of the caps by the cap side paster and the cap side paster; the lining and the pull embedded strip are adhered to the outer opening of the hat and used for tensioning or shaping, so that the structure and the shape of the hat are stably reinforced, and particularly, the strip-shaped hard lining is adhered to the inner part of the hat, so that a stiff, smooth and full shaping effect can be generated;

step three, cap side sheet air hole rolling: rolling a rear air hole at the rear middle part of the plate position, and rolling two front air holes at the left side and the right side of the front middle part respectively to reserve openings for penetrating the face drawstring and the head drawstring;

sewing the cap side piece and the cap middle piece, seaming the two layers of seams together after seaming, wherein the width of the seamed edge is 0.7cm, the vertical seam on the two sides is reversed to the middle after seaming, the horizontal seam is reversed upwards, and the open thread with the width of 0.5cm is stitched on each seam at equal distance; the two ends of the middle cap strip are fastened to seize the double open wires, the upper opening patch is folded to be seized at the corresponding position on the middle cap piece, the inner part of the middle cap strip is folded downwards, the face drawstring and the head drawstring are clamped to seize the wrapped cotton ropes, and the two ends of the middle cap strip are used for the live-edge remaining opening threading ropes; the cap side paster is respectively sewed with the cap side paster and the cap middle paster, and the lower opening of the cap side paster and the upper opening of the cap side paster are reserved according to the version position for threading a face drawing rope; the channel in the cap is completely buckled and attached to the side piece of the cap according to the plate position; stitching the corresponding parts of the hat side paster, the hat middle paster, the hat side piece and the hat middle piece, stitching the back thread of 0.1cm after the outer opening is stitched, and stitching the open thread after the inner opening is completely buckled;

and step five, the face drawstring and the head drawstring are wound on the cap in a penetrating way, the face drawstring and the head drawstring are fastened in a penetrating way, so that the tightness of the face drawstring and the head drawstring can be conveniently adjusted, the face drawstring or the head drawstring is penetrated according to the reserved opening position of the cut piece, and the tail end of the face drawstring is penetrated with a hanging bell to prevent the face drawstring from being extracted.

Further, the cap side piece is sewn with the front and rear upper garment pieces, a 0.7cm wide edge is locked after sewing, 1cm wide woven belts are sewn, the sewing parts are inclined upwards, 0.5cm wide open threads are sewn away from the edge, the cap side is abutted, the lower opening is completely fastened and aligned with a collar seam, and the cap side is fixed with the woven belts at the collar seam by using hand needles with dark fibers and a needle pitch of 0.2 cm.

Further, before the cut pieces are manufactured, the fabric is preshrunk ironed, seams of the cut pieces are cut according to yarn direction lines, the seam is 1.2cm for each vertical seam, and the seam is 1.0cm for each transverse seam.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

the clothes body cutting piece is structurally designed, a way is designed at the shoulder blade position of the back, waist is designed at the waist parts of the front and the back pieces, and the belly is designed at the front piece, so that the back is straight and spiritual after the clothes are worn, the front body does not show the belly to wear the clothes, the overall contour is relaxed, and enough space is provided at the main moving parts of the human body to meet various action requirements;

the sleeve cutting piece structure is designed, the sleeve angle is adjusted, the pattern of a traditional sleeve cutting plate is broken through, cutting pieces are cut and recombined based on human engineering, the front bending amount of large and small sleeve sewing lines at sleeve elbows is designed to form sleeve bending, the sleeve structure conforms to human engineering, the bending degree completely conforms to the natural state of a human body, 360-degree no constraint is achieved when the arms of the human body move, and the comfort level is improved;

the lines of the cap modeling structure are smoother and more beautiful, the front brim is more fashionable in projection, the protection performance is improved, the face is more fashionable in modification through the outline streamline modeling, the head modeling is attached to the whole structure, the practicability is improved as the drawing rope passes through the head, the contraction protection performance is better, and the modeling structure with stronger comprehensive functionality is formed;

the sleeves can be adjusted through the threaded opening closing of the cuffs, so that different requirements of leisure and work are met; the lower hem of the garment is designed with a streamline shape with a short front part and a long back part, so that the garment meets the requirement of bending down of a wearer during work;

the outer pocket has a moderate size, meets the requirements of placing articles and a hand plunger, and is provided with a zipper on the outer side to prevent the articles from sliding off; the inner side is provided with an inner pocket which can be used for placing personal valuables, and the inner pocket is also provided with a zipper, so that the security is higher.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic front view of a garment construction according to an embodiment;

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a back style structure of the garment construction of the embodiment;

FIG. 3 is a schematic plan view of a body panel according to an embodiment;

FIG. 4 is a schematic plan view of an example cut-out panel.

FIG. 5 is a schematic plan view of the cap panel of the embodiment.

FIG. 6 is a schematic plan view showing the side surfaces of the garment body and the lower portions of the sleeves after the small sleeve pieces are sewn with the garment body cut pieces;

FIG. 7 is a schematic plan view of the corresponding sewing positions of the side pieces and the middle piece of the cap;

FIG. 8 is a schematic view of a thread insertion path structure of the cap; (ii) a

In the figure, 1 front and back upper garment piece, 2 front middle garment piece, 3 front lower garment piece, 4 back lower garment piece, 5 lower hem plaster, 6 front fly wind shield, 7 right inner pocket, 8 front middle garment piece, 9 big sleeve piece, 10 small sleeve piece, 11 cuff plaster, 12 cuff splicing, 13 cap side piece, 14 cap middle piece, 15 cap middle plaster, 16 cap side plaster, 17 cap side splicing, 18 cap middle strip, 19 cap middle channel, 20 face drawstring and 21 head drawstring.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in detail with reference to the following embodiments in order to make the aforementioned objects, features and advantages of the invention more comprehensible. In the following description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a thorough understanding of the present invention. This invention may, however, be embodied in many different forms and should not be construed as limited to the embodiments set forth herein.

Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. The terminology used herein in the description of the invention is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of the invention.

As shown in the figure, the fit comfortable garment structure comprises a garment body cut piece, sleeve cut pieces and a cap cut piece; the cut pieces of the garment body comprise a front upper cut piece and a rear upper cut piece 1, two front middle cut pieces 2, two front lower cut pieces 3 and a rear lower cut piece 4; the sleeve cutting pieces comprise two large sleeve pieces 9 and two small sleeve pieces 10, wherein the large sleeve pieces 9 and the small sleeve pieces 10 are provided with front bending amounts at sleeve shafts to form sleeve bending, sleeve inserting piece increments are arranged on the large sleeve pieces 9 and the small sleeve pieces 10, and the upper ends of the small sleeve pieces 10 are provided with clothing body side piece increments; the hat cut pieces comprise 13 hat side pieces, 14 hat middle pieces, 15 hat middle stickers, 16 hat side stickers and 17 hat side stickers;

the front side of the front and rear upper garment pieces 1 is sewn with the front middle garment piece 2, the rear side of the front and rear upper garment pieces 1 is sewn with the rear lower garment piece 4, the upper end of the rear lower garment piece 4 is provided with a muff dart, the upper end edge of the front lower garment piece 3 is sewn with the front middle garment piece, the upper end of the front lower garment piece 3 is provided with a belly dart, the side edge of the front lower garment piece 3 is sewn with the rear lower garment piece 4, and the side edge of the rear lower garment piece 4 is provided with a waist dart;

the big sleeve piece 9 is sewed with two sides of the small sleeve piece 10, two sides of the increment of the body side piece of the small sleeve piece 10 are sewed with the front middle cut piece 2 and the rear lower cut piece 4, the upper end of the increment of the body side piece of the small sleeve piece 10 is sewed with the front lower cut piece 3, and the upper end of the big sleeve piece 9 is sewed with the front upper cut piece 1, the front middle cut piece 2 and the rear lower cut piece 4;

the lower end of the cap middle piece 14 is sewn with the middle part of the upper end of the cap side piece 13, and two side edges of the cap middle piece 14 are sewn with arc lines on two sides of the upper end of the cap side piece 13; the cap middle paste 15 is positioned on the inner side of the upper end of the cap middle sheet 14, the cap side pastes 16 are positioned on the inner sides of the two ends of the cap side sheet 13, the outer ends of the cap side pastes 16 are spliced with the cap side patches 17, the cap middle paste 15 is sewn with the cap middle sheet 14 and the cap side sheet 13, and the cap side patches 16 are sewn with the cap middle paste 15, the cap side patches 17 and the cap side sheet 13;

the lower end of the cap side piece 13 is sewn with the inner arc line of the front and rear upper garment pieces 1, and a zipper is stitched at the front and middle parts of the cap side piece 13, the front and rear upper garment pieces 1, the front middle garment piece 2 and the front lower garment piece 3.

The clothing body cut-parts still include in 8 two and right in the preceding middle cut-parts piece 7, be equipped with outer pocket on the preceding middle cut-parts piece 2, outer pocket is equipped with the zip fastener, 8 make in the preceding middle cut-parts piece with the inboard of preceding middle cut-parts piece 2, pocket 7 with 8 sew up in the preceding middle cut-parts piece in the right side.

The garment body cut piece also comprises a lower hem patch 5 and a front fly wind screen 6, wherein the lower hem patch 5 is positioned at the lower hem of the garment structure, and the lower hem patch 5 is sewn with the front lower garment piece 3 and the rear lower garment piece 4; the front fly wind shielding 6 is sewn in the front middle part of the garment structure, and the front fly wind shielding 6 is positioned at the lower layer of the zipper.

The sleeve cut pieces further comprise cuff stickers 11 and cuff splices 12, cuffs of the large sleeve pieces 9 are sewn with the cuff stickers 11, and the cuff stickers 11 are located on the inner sides of the large sleeve pieces 9; the cuff pieces 12 are symmetrical up and down, the small sleeve pieces 10 are sewed after the cuff pieces 12 are folded up and down, the two sides of the cuff pieces 12 are sewed with the large sleeve pieces 9 in a splicing way, and the cuff pieces 12 are made of elastic fabrics.

The cap cut piece further comprises a cap middle strip 18 and a cap middle channel 19, the cap middle strip 18 is attached to the inner side of the cap middle strip 15, the two ends of the cap middle strip 18 are free and provided with openings, the cap middle channel 19 is attached to the inner side of the cap side piece 13, the two ends of the cap middle channel 19 are provided with openings, the upper end of the cap side piece 16 is provided with an opening, the joint of the lower end of the cap side piece 17 and the cap side piece 16 is provided with openings, the two front air holes are respectively rolled on the left side and the right side of the two sides of the front middle position of the cap side piece 13 according to the plate position, and the rear air holes are rolled on the rear middle position of the cap side piece 13 according to the plate position;

the face drawstring 20 sequentially passes through the hat side sticker 16, the hat middle strip 18 and the hat side sticker 16 on one side, two ends of the face drawstring 20 penetrate out of one front air hole on two sides, a buckle is arranged on the face drawstring 20, the face drawstring 20 penetrates through the other front air hole, the end of the face drawstring 20 passes through a reserved opening in the lower end of the hat side sticker 17, and a hanging clock is arranged at the tail end of the face drawstring 20; the head drawstring 21 is inserted into the cap middle strip 18 and the cap middle channel 19, the head drawstring 21 penetrates out of the rear air hole, a buckle is arranged on the head drawstring 21, and the buckle on the head drawstring 21 is positioned outside the rear air hole.

The tailoring process of the fit comfortable garment structure comprises the following steps:

according to the clothing size and style characteristics of national standards and enterprise standards and a known template printing method, the physical activity is added to the net size by combining specific fabric characteristics. Determining the sizes of key parts of the net body: the garment length, the chest circumference, the waist circumference, the hip circumference, the back width, the front chest width, the collar circumference, the sleeve length, the sleeve fertilizer and the head circumference, the net body size is added with the relaxation amount, the activities of 8-10 cm are added to the chest circumference, the waist circumference and the swing circumference, the activities of 3-4 cm are added to the sleeve fertilizer, and other parts are calculated according to the known formula and method; before each cut piece is manufactured, the fabric is preshrunk ironed, each cut piece is sewn according to the yarn direction, each vertical seam is sewn by 1.2cm, and each transverse seam is sewn by 1.0 cm;

rear sheet: designing a back collar line, wherein the back collar depth is 3.6cm, and the width of the 1/2 back collar is 9.3 cm; the shoulder province is transferred to the armhole position to form the armhole province at the protruding position of the rear scapula, a dividing line de is designed, the province is hidden in the dividing line de, and rear upper garment pieces are separated; designing a waist province at the waist, designing a dividing line from the e' g line, and separating a lower section of the back sheet and a back side sheet;

front panel: designing a front collar line, wherein the front collar depth is 10.4cm, and the rear collar width of 1/2 is 8.9 cm; designing a dividing line j 'x' at the position 3.3cm above the chest line, merging the chest dart into the dividing line j 'x', and separating out front upper garment pieces; designing a vertical dividing line ml, transversely designing a belly on a nk', and separating a front middle cut piece 2 and a front side piece;

the front and back panels were combined for structural changes: the front upper garment piece and the back upper garment piece are spliced at the shoulder seam to form a basic model of a whole piece of front and back upper garment pieces 1; splicing the front and rear side seams to form a whole front and rear side garment piece, extending a design dividing line at the nk' belly position to the rear piece, and dividing a rear lower garment piece 4, a front lower garment piece 3 and a front and rear upper garment piece;

secondly, preparing each cutting piece of the sleeve cutting pieces as follows:

combine clothing body cut-parts to design: determining turning points of a garment body and sleeves on the basic types of the front and rear upper cut pieces, reducing the angle of the shoulder line, raising the shoulder line to form a front and rear upper cut piece 1, dividing the basic type of the sleeves into a front piece and a rear piece by taking the central line of the sleeves as a standard, splicing the front and rear cut pieces at corresponding positions of the front and rear garment bodies respectively, rotating the sleeve cut pieces by taking the turning points as a standard to ensure that sleeve arc lines are tangent to a large armhole arc line, forming an overlapping amount between the rotated rear sleeve cut pieces and the garment bodies at the underarm part, independently extracting the overlapped parts to form sleeve inserting angle pieces, and splicing the sleeve inserting angle pieces and the basic type of the sleeves to form a whole piece;

designing sleeve bending: on a sleeve elbow line yz, the central line of the front sleeve fertilizer is 0.7cm inward, the central line of the rear sleeve fertilizer is 1.5cm inward, the central line of the front sleeve fertilizer is 1.5cm outward at a cuff line of a basic version, a new vertical line of the central line of the sleeve fertilizer is made, the length of the vertical line is 1/2 cuff lengths, the vertical line is translated upwards, the cuffs of the original basic version are used as a standard, the vertical lifting amount and the vertical falling amount of the vertical line are equal, and the central line of the new rear sleeve fertilizer is connected with the cuff vertical line point to form new cuff lines vw, v 'w' and v 'w'; the expansion amount of the rear sleeve seam line at the sleeve elbow line yz is overlapped on the front sleeve seam line;

designing a dividing line of the big sleeve sheet and the small sleeve sheet 10: the big sleeve piece 9 and the small sleeve piece 10 are mutually sewn by means of seams, the big sleeve seam lines form points t, z and v, and the small sleeve seam lines form points u, y and w; the sleeve fertilizer loss amount is reduced after the bending, and a part of sleeve fertilizer amount is also reduced due to the saving of sleeve elbows, so that the fertilizer lines of the big and small sleeves are supplemented to the outer arc to form a final big sleeve sheet 9; splicing the front middle cut piece 2 and the rear lower cut piece 4 at the sr part of the small sleeve piece 10 to form a complete small sleeve piece 10;

thirdly, preparing each cutting piece of the hat cutting piece as follows:

the lower cap opening line AB is equal to the front and rear collar lines abh, and an arc line is drawn along the lower cap opening; the two sides at the top of the head are divided and saved, and the saving between the arc DE of the cap side sheet 13 and the arc HD' of the cap middle sheet 14 is saved; the outer opening of the cap forms a point E, F, H, G, and the connecting lines between the points draw a straight curve;

III, sewing the cut pieces to obtain the garment structure.

And in the step III, the specific operation of sewing the cut pieces is as follows:

1) sewing the clothes body cut pieces: the front upper section garment piece 1 and the rear upper section garment piece 1 are sewn with the front middle section garment piece, the front lower section garment piece 3 is respectively sewn with the front middle section garment piece and the rear lower section garment piece 4, the lower hem patch 5 is sewn with the lower hem, the front fly wind shield 6 is sewn with the front middle part of the right front piece, and the right inner pocket 7 is sewn with the front middle garment piece lining 8;

2) sewing the sleeve cut pieces: the cuff splicing 12 is sewed with the small sleeve piece 10, the cuff paste 11 is sewed with the cuff part corresponding to the big sleeve piece 9, and the big sleeve piece 9 is sewed with the small sleeve piece 10;

3) sewing the sleeve cut pieces and the clothes body cut pieces: the small sleeve piece 10 is respectively sewed with the front middle cut piece 2, the front lower cut piece 3 and the rear lower cut piece 4, and the large sleeve piece 9 is respectively sewed with the front upper cut piece 1, the front middle cut piece 2 and the rear lower cut piece 4;

4) sewing the cut pieces of the hat: the cap side pieces 13 and the cap middle pieces 14 are sewn, the cap side stickers 16 are respectively spliced with the cap side stickers 16, the cap middle stickers 15 are sewn, and the cap stickers are sewn with the corresponding parts of the cap side pieces 13 and the cap middle pieces 14; the specific operation is as follows:

step one, cutting pieces and adhering linings: the hat side paster 16, the hat side pasters 17 and the hat middle channel 19 are all adhered with woven adhesive linings, and the hat middle paster 15 is adhered with a strip-shaped hard lining, so that the outer contour of the hat is rigid;

step two, cutting piece drawing and embedding strip: the cap side paster 16 and the cap side paster 17 pull 1.0cm inclined wire filler rods corresponding to the outer opening of the cap;

step three, the cap side sheet 13 is subjected to air hole rolling: rolling a rear air hole at the rear middle part of the plate position, rolling two front air holes at the left side and the right side of the front middle part respectively, and reserving openings for penetrating the face drawstring 20 and the head drawstring 21;

sewing the cap side piece 13 and the cap middle piece 14, seaming two layers of seams together after seaming, wherein the width of the seamed edges is 0.7cm, the vertical seam on two sides is reversed to the rear middle, the horizontal seam is reversed upwards after seaming, and the open line with the width of 0.5cm is stitched on each seam at equal distance; the two ends of the cap middle strip 18 are fastened to stitch the double open threads, the upper opening paster is folded to stitch the corresponding position on the cap middle piece 14, the inside of the cap middle strip is folded downwards, the face drawstring 20 and the head drawstring 21 are clamped, and the wrapped thread ropes are stitched, and the two ends of the cap middle strip 18 are used as the live edge remaining opening threading ropes; the cap side paster 16 is respectively sewed with the cap side pasters 17 and the cap middle pasters 15, and the lower openings of the cap side pasters 17 and the upper openings of the cap side pasters 16 are reserved according to the plate positions and are used for threading the face draw ropes 20; the channel 19 in the cap is completely buckled and is attached to the cap side piece 13 according to the plate position; stitching the corresponding parts of the hat side paster 16, the hat side paster 17 and the hat middle paster 15, the hat side sheet 13 and the hat middle sheet 14, stitching an outer opening with a back stitching of 0.1cm, and stitching an inner opening with a clear stitching;

and step five, threading the face drawstring 20 and the head drawstring 21 on the cap, threading the buckle on the face drawstring 20 and the head drawstring 21, threading the face drawstring 20 or the head drawstring 21 according to the cut piece reserved opening position, and threading the bell at the tail end of the face drawstring 20.

5) Sewing the hat cut piece and the clothes body cut piece: the cap side sheet 13 is sewn to the front and rear upper garment pieces 1. The cap side piece 13 is sewn with the front and rear upper garment pieces 1, a 0.7cm wide edge is locked after sewing, 1cm wide woven belts are sewn, the sewing parts are inclined upwards, 0.5cm wide open thread is sewn away from the edge, the lower opening of the cap side piece 17 is completely buckled and then is aligned with a collar seam, the hidden fiber of a hand needle is used, the needle pitch is 0.2cm, and the cap side piece is fixed with the woven belts at the collar seam.

Clothing body cut-parts structural design: the back shoulder blades are designed with a dart, the waist of the front and back pieces is designed with a waist dart, and the front piece is designed with a belly dart, so that the back of the garment is straight and straight after the garment is worn, and the front body of the garment does not show the belly of the garment to wear a slim garment; the structure design of the sleeve cutting piece is characterized in that the angle of the sleeve is adjusted, enough activity is added under the armpit, and the front curve amount of the large and small sleeve sewing lines at the sleeve elbow is designed to form sleeve curve; the structural design of the hat cut pieces is as follows: the division line parts of the middle cap piece 14 and the side cap pieces 13 are folded, and the designed curve shape forms arc lines DE and EF which accord with the shapes of the head and the two parts. Cutting pieces are cut and recombined, and after sewing is finished, enough space is provided at main moving parts of a human body to meet various action requirements.

The technical features of the embodiments described above may be arbitrarily combined, and for the sake of brevity, all possible combinations of the technical features in the embodiments described above are not described, but should be considered as being within the scope of the present specification as long as there is no contradiction between the combinations of the technical features.

The above-mentioned embodiments only express several embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that, for a person skilled in the art, several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.

Claims

1. A fit comfortable garment structure is characterized in that the garment structure comprises a garment body cut piece, sleeve cut pieces and a cap cut piece; the cut pieces of the garment body comprise a front upper cut piece and a rear upper cut piece (1), two front middle cut pieces (2), two front lower cut pieces (3) and a rear lower cut piece (4); the sleeve cutting pieces comprise two large sleeve pieces (9) and two small sleeve pieces (10), wherein the large sleeve pieces (9) and the small sleeve pieces (10) are provided with front bending amounts at sleeve shafts to form sleeve bending, sleeve inserting piece increments are arranged on the large sleeve pieces (9) and the small sleeve pieces (10), and the upper ends of the small sleeve pieces (10) are provided with clothing body side piece increments; the hat cutting pieces comprise one hat side piece (13), one hat middle piece (14), one hat middle sticker (15), two hat side stickers (16) and two hat side collages (17);

the front side of the front and rear upper garment pieces (1) is sewn with the front middle garment piece (2), the rear side of the front and rear upper garment pieces (1) is sewn with the rear lower garment piece (4), the upper end of the rear lower garment piece (4) is provided with a muff dart, the upper end edge of the front lower garment piece (3) is sewn with the front middle garment piece, the upper end of the front lower garment piece (3) is provided with a belly dart, the side edge of the front lower garment piece (3) is sewn with the rear lower garment piece (4), and the side edge of the rear lower garment piece (4) is provided with a waist dart;

the big sleeve piece (9) is sewn with two sides of the small sleeve piece (10), two sides of the increment of the side piece of the coat body of the small sleeve piece (10) are sewn with the front middle cut piece (2) and the rear lower cut piece (4), the upper end of the increment of the side piece of the coat body of the small sleeve piece (10) is sewn with the front lower cut piece (3), and the upper end of the big sleeve piece (9) is sewn with the front upper cut piece (1), the front middle cut piece (2) and the rear lower cut piece (4);

the lower end of the cap middle piece (14) is sewn with the middle part of the upper end of the cap side piece (13), and two side edges of the cap middle piece (14) are sewn with arc lines on two sides of the upper end of the cap side piece (13); the cap middle patch (15) is positioned on the inner side of the upper end of the cap middle sheet (14), the cap side patches (16) are positioned on the inner sides of the two ends of the cap side sheet (13), the outer ends of the cap side patches (16) are spliced with the cap side patches (17), the cap middle patch (15) is sewn with the cap middle sheet (14) and the cap side sheet (13), and the cap side patches (16) are sewn with the cap middle patch (15), the cap side patches (17) and the cap side sheet (13);

the lower end of the cap side piece (13) is sewn with the inner arc line of the front and rear upper garment pieces (1), and zippers are stitched at the front and middle parts of the cap side piece (13), the front and rear upper garment pieces (1) and the front and middle garment pieces (2) and the front and lower garment pieces (3).

2. A comfortable garment structure as claimed in claim 1, wherein said body panels further comprise two front middle panels (8) and one right inner pocket (7), said front middle panels (2) are provided with outer pockets, said outer pockets are provided with zippers, said front middle panels (8) are sewn to the inner side of said front middle panels (2), and said right inner pocket (7) is sewn to said front middle panels (8).

3. A fit and comfort garment structure as claimed in claim 1, wherein the body panel further comprises a hem patch (5) and a front fly wind screen (6), the hem patch (5) is located at the hem of the garment structure, and the hem patch (5) is sewn with the front lower cut piece (3) and the rear lower cut piece (4); the front fly wind screen (6) is sewn at the front middle part of the garment structure, and the front fly wind screen (6) is positioned at the lower layer of the zipper.

4. A comfortable garment structure according to claim 1, wherein said sleeve panels further comprise cuff strips (11) and cuff strips (12), the cuffs of said big-sleeve panels (9) are sewn with said cuff strips (11), said cuff strips (11) are located at the inner side of said big-sleeve panels (9); the cuff splices (12) are vertically symmetrical, the small sleeve pieces (10) are sewed after the cuff splices (12) are folded up and down, the two sides of the cuff splices (12) are sewed with the large sleeve pieces (9), and the cuff splices (12) are made of elastic fabrics.

5. A fit comfort clothing structure according to claim 1, wherein the hat cut pieces further comprise a hat middle strip (18) and a hat middle channel (19), the hat middle strip (18) is attached to the inner side of the hat middle strip (15), the two ends of the hat middle strip (18) are provided with free edges, the hat middle channel (19) is attached to the inner side of the hat side piece (13), the two ends of the hat middle channel (19) are provided with free edges, the upper end of the hat side piece (16) is provided with free edges, the lower end of the hat side piece (17) is provided with free edges at the joint with the hat side piece (16), the hat side piece (13) is provided with two front air holes respectively arranged on the left and right of the two sides of the front middle position of the plate position, and the back air hole is arranged on the back middle position of the hat side piece (13);

the face drawstring (20) sequentially penetrates through the hat side sticker (16) on one side, the hat middle strip (18) and the hat side sticker (16) on the other side, two ends of the face drawstring (20) penetrate out from one front air hole on two sides, a buckle is installed on the face drawstring (20), the face drawstring (20) penetrates through the other front air hole, the end of the face drawstring (20) penetrates through a reserved opening in the lower end of the hat side sticker (17), and a hanging clock is installed at the tail end of the face drawstring (20); the head drawstring (21) is inserted into the cap middle strip (18) and the cap middle channel (19), the head drawstring (21) penetrates out of the rear air hole, a buckle is installed on the head drawstring (21), and the buckle on the head drawstring (21) is located outside the rear air hole.

6. A process for tailoring a conformable comfortable garment structure according to any of claims 1-5, wherein said process comprises the steps of:

determining the sizes of key parts of a net body: the garment length, the chest circumference, the waist circumference, the hip circumference, the back width, the front chest width, the collar circumference, the sleeve length, the sleeve fertilizer and the head circumference, the net body size is added with the relaxation amount, the activities of 8-10 cm are added to the chest circumference, the waist circumference and the hem, and the activities of 3-4 cm are added to the sleeve fertilizer;

front panel: designing a front collar line, wherein the front collar depth is 10.4cm, and the rear collar width of 1/2 is 8.9 cm; designing a dividing line j 'x' at the position 3.3cm above the chest line, merging the chest dart into the dividing line j 'x', and separating out front upper garment pieces; designing a vertical dividing line ml, transversely designing a belly on a nk', and separating a front middle garment piece (2) and a front side piece;

the front and back panels were combined for structural changes: the front upper garment piece and the back upper garment piece are spliced at the shoulder seam to form a basic shape of a whole piece of front and back upper garment pieces (1); the front and rear side seams are spliced to form a whole front and rear side garment piece, a nk' belly design dividing line is extended to the rear piece, and a rear lower garment piece (4), a front lower garment piece (3) and a front and rear upper garment piece are divided;

secondly, preparing each cutting piece of the sleeve cutting pieces as follows:

combine clothing body cut-parts to design: determining turning points of a garment body and sleeves on the basic types of the front and rear upper cut pieces, reducing the angle of the shoulder line, raising the shoulder line to form the front and rear upper cut pieces (1), dividing the basic type of the sleeves into a front piece and a rear piece by taking the central line of the sleeves as a standard, splicing the front and rear cut pieces at corresponding positions of the front and rear garment bodies respectively, rotating the sleeve cut pieces by taking the turning points as a standard to ensure that sleeve arc lines are tangent to a large armhole arc line, forming an overlapping amount between the rotated rear sleeve cut pieces and the garment bodies at the underarm part, independently extracting the overlapped parts to form sleeve inserting angle pieces, and splicing the sleeve inserting angle pieces and the basic type of the sleeves to form a whole piece;

designing sleeve bending: on a sleeve elbow line yz, the central line of the front sleeve fertilizer is 0.7cm inward, the central line of the rear sleeve fertilizer is 1.5cm inward, the central line of the front sleeve fertilizer is 1.5cm outward at a cuff line of a basic edition, a new vertical line of the central line of the sleeve fertilizer is made, the length of the vertical line is 1/2 cuffs, the vertical line is translated upwards, the central line of the new rear sleeve fertilizer is connected with the cuff vertical line point, and new cuff lines vw, v 'w' and v 'w' are formed; the expansion amount of the rear sleeve seam line at the sleeve elbow line yz is overlapped on the front sleeve seam line;

designing a dividing line of the big sleeve sheet and the small sleeve sheet (10): the big sleeve piece (9) and the small sleeve piece (10) are mutually sewn by virtue of seams, the big sleeve seam lines form points t, z and v, and the small sleeve seam lines form points u, y and w; the upper part of the sleeve fertilizer is lost after the elbow is bent, and a part of the sleeve fertilizer is lost when the sleeve elbows are saved, so that the fertilizer lines of the big and small sleeves are supplemented to the outer arc to form a final big sleeve sheet (9); the front middle garment piece (2) and the rear lower garment piece (4) are spliced at the sr part of the small sleeve piece (10) to form a complete small sleeve piece (10);

thirdly, preparing each cutting piece of the hat cutting piece as follows:

the lower cap opening line AB is equal to the front and rear collar lines abh, and an arc line is drawn along the lower cap opening; the two sides at the top of the head are cut and saved, and the saving is realized between the arc DE of the cap side piece (13) and the arc HD' of the cap middle piece (14); the outer opening of the cap forms a point E, F, H, G, and the connecting lines between the points draw a straight curve;

(III) sewing the cut pieces to obtain the garment structure.

7. The tailoring process of a fit and comfort garment structure according to claim 6, wherein the specific operation of sewing the cut pieces in step (III) is as follows:

1) sewing the clothes body cut pieces: the front upper section garment piece and the rear upper section garment piece (1) are sewn with the front middle section garment piece, the front lower section garment piece (3) is respectively sewn with the front middle section garment piece and the rear lower section garment piece (4), the lower hem patch (5) is sewn with the lower hem, the front fly shields the wind (6) and is sewn with the front middle part of the right front piece, and the right inner pocket (7) is sewn with the inner part (8) of the front middle section garment piece;

2) sewing the sleeve cut pieces: the cuff splicing piece (12) is sewed with the small sleeve piece (10), the cuff paste (11) is sewed with the cuff part corresponding to the big sleeve piece (9), and the big sleeve piece (9) is sewed with the small sleeve piece (10);

3) sewing the sleeve cut pieces and the clothes body cut pieces: the small sleeve pieces (10) are respectively sewed with the front middle garment piece (2), the front lower garment piece (3) and the rear lower garment piece (4), and the large sleeve pieces (9) are respectively sewed with the front upper garment piece (1), the front middle garment piece (2) and the rear lower garment piece (4);

4) sewing the cut pieces of the hat: the cap side pieces (13) and the cap middle pieces (14) are sewn, the cap side stickers (16) are respectively spliced with the cap side stickers (16) and the cap middle stickers (15) are sewn, and the cap stickers are sewn with the cap side pieces (13) and the cap middle pieces (14);

5) sewing the hat cut piece and the clothes body cut piece: the cap side pieces (13) are sewn with the front and rear upper garment pieces (1).

8. The tailoring process of a fit and comfort garment structure according to claim 7, wherein the sewing of the cut pieces of the hat comprises the following specific operations:

step one, cutting pieces and adhering linings: woven adhesive linings are adhered to the hat side paster (16), the hat side pasters (17) and the hat middle channel (19), and a strip-shaped hard lining is adhered to the hat middle paster (15) to enable the outer contour of the hat to be rigid;

step two, cutting piece drawing and embedding strip: the cap side paster (16) and the cap side splicing paster (17) pull 1.0cm inclined wire insertion strips corresponding to the outer opening part of the cap;

step three, the cap side piece (13) is subjected to air hole rolling: a rear air hole is rolled at the rear middle part of the plate position, two front air holes are respectively rolled at the left side and the right side of the front middle part, and openings are reserved for penetrating the face drawstring (20) and the head drawstring (21);

sewing the cap side sheet (13) and the cap middle sheet (14), sewing two layers of seams together after seaming, wherein the width of the sewn seam is 0.7cm, the vertical abutted seams at the two sides are inverted to the rear middle and transverse abutted seams upwards after seaming, and the width of each abutted seam is 0.5cm from the edge; the two ends of the cap middle strip (18) are fastened to net stitch double open threads, the upper opening sticker is folded to stitch the corresponding position on the cap middle piece (14), the inside of the cap middle strip is folded downwards, a face part pull rope (20) and a head part pull rope (21) are clamped, and the thread ropes are wrapped firmly, and the two ends of the cap middle strip (18) are used for live edge remaining opening threading ropes; the cap side paster (16) is respectively sewed with the cap side paster (17) and the cap middle paster (15), and the lower opening of the cap side paster (17) and the upper opening of the cap side paster (16) are reserved according to the position of the plate for threading a face drawstring (20); the channel (19) in the cap is completely buckled and is tacked on the cap side piece (13) according to the plate position; the corresponding parts of the cap side paster (16), the cap side collage (17) and the cap middle paster (15) and the cap side sheet (13) and the cap middle sheet (14) are sewed, a back line of 0.1cm is stitched after the outer opening is sewed, and an open line is stitched after the inner opening is completely sewed;

and fifthly, the face drawstring (20) and the head drawstring (21) are threaded on the hat, the face drawstring (20) and the head drawstring (21) are threaded through buckles, the face drawstring (20) or the head drawstring (21) is threaded according to the reserved opening position of the cut piece, and the tail end of the face drawstring (20) is threaded through a hanging clock.

9. The tailoring process of a fit and comfort clothing structure according to claim 7, characterized in that the cap side piece (13) is sewn with the front and back upper garment pieces (1), the width of 0.7cm is locked after sewing, 1cm wide woven tape is stitched, the stitch is turned upwards, 0.5cm wide open thread is stitched from the edge, the collar seam is aligned after the lower opening of the cap side patch (17) is completely closed, and the needle thread is hidden by a hand, the needle pitch is 0.2cm, and the needle thread is fixed with the woven tape at the collar seam.

10. A cutting process of a fit and comfortable garment structure according to claim 6, characterized in that before each cut piece is made, the fabric is preshrunk ironed, each cut piece is sewn according to yarn direction lines, each vertical seam is sewn by 1.2cm, and each horizontal seam is sewn by 1.0 cm.