CN117449014B - 一种棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法 - Google Patents

一种棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法 Download PDF

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CN117449014B
CN117449014B CN202311410948.XA CN202311410948A CN117449014B CN 117449014 B CN117449014 B CN 117449014B CN 202311410948 A CN202311410948 A CN 202311410948A CN 117449014 B CN117449014 B CN 117449014B
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polylactic acid
cotton
yarn
warp
composite fabric
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陈桂春
秦玉娟
顾进
邱地恒
邓剑光
黄卓恒
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Shaoguan Beitextile Technology Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开一种棉‑聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法，包含以下步骤：S1、经纱采用球经整经，以250m/min的车速整成每轴300～600根纱线的球经轴，经纱为棉纤维包缠在聚乳酸纤维外部形成的棉纤维/聚乳酸包芯纱；S2、在低粘度淀粉、靛蓝染料、氨基封端二甲基硅油、甲基异丁基酮、氢氧化钠、异丙酮和甘油组成的整理剂中，加适量去离子水配置成浓度为100～150g/L的整理液；S3、采用取浆联合工艺，以50～100m/min及两浸两轧完成经纱染色和浆纱工艺，并以105～120℃热风干燥，随后并轴，与纬纱上机织造，得到聚乳酸纤维复合面料。本发明织造方法织造的面料强度高、柔软性好。

Description

一种棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织材料领域，尤其涉及一种棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法。
背景技术
牛仔面料是一种风格厚重粗犷的机织面料，具有结实耐磨、吸湿透气等特点，自19世纪末诞生以来一直都受到世界各地消费者的青睐，保持着较为庞大的市场规模。近年来，随着环境保护概念的深入人心，牛仔面料也在向着绿色环保的方向快速发展。聚乳酸(PLA)是一种原料来源于玉米、麦麸、秸秆等农副产物的环保聚合物，因其具有可生物降解的特点获得了较为广泛的关注。其纤维与常见的涤纶同属聚酯纤维，因此其染色性能、纺织工艺与涤纶相近。然而，PLA大分子具有独特的螺旋结构，其结晶性能、耐热性能明显逊于传统的涤纶纤维，因此PLA纤维及其面料开发一直是行业研发热点。
CN 112323512A公布了一种公开了一种玉米纤维(聚乳酸纤维)棉混纺织物的染整加工工艺，其中织物采用玉米纤维与棉纤维混纺而成，采用传统的先织造后染整的工艺制得面料，面料的同色性好，但工艺略繁琐。
CN116377649A公开了一种抗菌的可自然降解聚乳酸环保面料及其制备方法，通过在聚乳酸纺丝过程中引入抗菌剂、聚丙烯等组分对纤维进行补强及功能化，继而通过传统针织工艺制得面料，然而聚乳酸与PP并不相容，固体组分过多，这些因素会对聚乳酸的纺丝性能造成负面影响。因此，亟需一种染整不会导致聚乳酸纤维降解、柔软、强度高的棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法。
发明内容
为了克服现有技术的不足，本发明的目的在于提供一种染整不会导致聚乳酸纤维降解、柔软、强度高的棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法。
本发明的目的采用以下技术方案实现：
一种棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法，包含以下步骤：
S1、经纱采用球经整经，以250m/min的车速整成每轴300～600根纱线的球经轴，经纱为棉纤维包缠在聚乳酸纤维外部形成的棉纤维/聚乳酸包芯纱；
S2、在低粘度淀粉、靛蓝染料、氨基封端二甲基硅油、甲基异丁基酮、氢氧化钠、异丙酮和甘油组成的整理剂中，加适量去离子水配置成浓度为100～150g/L的整理液，低粘度淀粉、靛蓝染料、氨基封端二甲基硅油、甲基异丁基酮、氢氧化钠、异丙酮和甘油的重量比为100：(5～10):3:10:10：(0.5～3):5；
S3、采用取浆联合工艺，以50～100m/min及两浸两轧完成经纱染色和浆纱工艺，并以105～120℃热风干燥，随后并轴，与纬纱上机织造，得到聚乳酸纤维复合面料。
优选的，经纱的细度为30tex，经纱通过赛络纺或赛罗菲尔纺制造而成。
优选的，经纱的棉纤维的比重为30％～60％，聚乳酸长丝比重为40％～70％。
优选的，纬纱的细度为40tex，纬纱包括第一纬纱和第二纬纱；第一纬纱为棉纱；第二纬纱采用棉纤维为外包纤维、以氨纶纤维为芯纱且加强捻的包缠纱线。
优选的，第二纬纱的棉纤维的比重为30％～60％，氨纶纤维比重为40％～70％。
优选的，经纱占棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料重量的60％～70％。
相比现有技术，本发明的有益效果在于：
传统牛仔工艺会让纱线在碱性液相环境下完成染整，这样聚乳酸纤维会发生降解，性能下降。本工艺在整理剂配方中加入甲基异丁基酮，从而促进聚乳酸结晶，并让聚乳酸纤维以较快的车速在浆染联合工艺中牵伸取向，提高纤维结晶度，抵消碱性对纤维的破坏同时，纤维结晶度的提高增强了纤维的强度；氨基封端聚二甲基硅烷，既提高纱线柔软性，又通过氨基作用使得聚乳酸纤维与表面棉纤维之间的相互作用增强，使得纱线强度增强。
具体实施方式
为使本发明解决的技术问题、采用的技术方案和达到的技术效果更加清楚，下面将对本发明实施方式的技术方案作进一步的详细描述，显然，所描述的实施方式仅仅是本发明一部分实施方式，而不是全部的实施方式。基于本发明中的实施方式，本领域技术人员在没有做出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施方式，都属于本发明保护的范围。
本发明具体实施方式中的样品的经纬向断裂强力根据GB/T3923.1检测，剪取30cm×5cm的样条，采用电子强力机进行测试，测试的拉伸速率为100mm/min，预加张力为2N。
抗弯刚度根据GB/T18318检测，具体步骤为剪取长条形面料样条放于测试平台上，使用钢尺子与样条重叠并压着样条，随后尺子与样条同时移动，使样条悬空并自然向下弯曲。当样条向下弯曲，并恰好碰到41.5°斜面时，样条伸出长度的1/2记为弯曲长度。抗弯刚度计算公式为G＝mC3，式中：G为单位宽度的抗弯刚度(mN·cm)，m为试样平方米克重(g/m2)，C为试样的平均弯曲长度(m)。
实施例1
纱线准备：经纱为通过赛洛菲尔纺将棉纤维包缠在聚乳酸纤维外面形成30tex的棉纤维/聚乳酸包芯纱，其中，经纱的棉纤维的比重为50％，聚乳酸长丝比重为50％。第一纬纱采用40tex棉纱，而第二纬纱采用棉纤维为外包纤维、以氨纶纤维为芯纱制成且加强捻的40tex包缠纱线，其中，第二纬纱的棉纤维的比重为50％，氨纶纤维比重为50％。织造前，经纱采用球经工艺，以250m/min的车速整成每轴300-600根纱线的球经轴。
浆染联合整理及织造：浆染联合工艺整理剂配方为低粘度淀粉100份，靛蓝染料7份，氨基封端二甲基硅油3份，甲基异丁基酮10份，氢氧化钠10份，异丙醇2份，甘油5份，然后加上适量的去离子水配置成浓度为130g/L的浆染联合工艺整理液。再采取浆染联合工艺，以80m/min及两浸两轧完成染色和浆纱工艺，并以110℃热风干燥，随后并轴，与纬纱上机织造，得到两上两下右斜纹弹性牛仔面料，其中经纱占比60％，纬纱占比40％。
所得棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料经向断裂强力801N，纬向断裂强力767N，抗弯刚度48mN·cm。
实施例2
实施例2的棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料织造方法与实施例1类似，区别在于经纱的棉纤维的比重为40％，聚乳酸长丝比重为60％。其余步骤与实施例1中的制备步骤一致。
所得棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料经向断裂强力917N，纬向断裂强力778N，抗弯刚度52mN·cm。
实施例3
实施例2的棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料织造方法与实施例1类似，区别在于靛蓝染料调整为10份，其余步骤与实施例1中的制备步骤一致。
所得棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料经向断裂强力926N，纬向断裂强力763N，抗弯刚度49mN·cm。
对比例1
本对比例选用市售的硅油，牌号为道康宁PMX-0156，不含氨基，采用道康宁PMX-0156代替实施例1中的氨基封端二甲基硅油，其余步骤与实施例1中的制备步骤一致。
所得棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料经向断裂强力926N，纬向断裂强力763N，抗弯刚度72mN·cm。
对比例2
本对比例选用丙酮替代实施例1中的甲基异丁基酮，其余步骤与实施例1中的制备步骤一致。
所得棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料经向断裂强力537N，纬向断裂强力653N，抗弯刚度59mN·cm。
实施例1、2和3对比可知，本发明所提出的技术方案能赋予牛仔面料良好的力学性能和弹性。
实施例1和对比例1对比可知，引入氨基封端聚二甲基硅烷，既提高纱线柔软性，又通过氨基作用使得聚乳酸纤维与表面棉纤维之间的相互作用增强，整理效果更好，面料柔软性更好。
实施例1和对比例2对比可知，本发明采用的甲基异丁基酮能渗入纤维，诱导聚乳酸取向，增强纤维的强度。
上述实施方式仅为本发明的部分优选实施方式，不能以此来限定本发明保护的范围，本领域的技术人员在本发明的基础上所做的任何非实质性的变化及替换均属于本发明所要求保护的范围。

Claims (6)

1.一种棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法，其特征在于，包含以下步骤：
S1、经纱采用球经整经，以250m/min的车速整成每轴300～600根纱线的球经轴，所述经纱为棉纤维包缠在聚乳酸纤维外部形成的棉纤维/聚乳酸包芯纱；
S2、在低粘度淀粉、靛蓝染料、氨基封端二甲基硅油、甲基异丁基酮、氢氧化钠、异丙酮和甘油组成的整理剂中，加适量去离子水配置成浓度为100～150g/L的整理液，所述低粘度淀粉、靛蓝染料、氨基封端二甲基硅油、甲基异丁基酮、氢氧化钠、异丙酮和甘油的重量比为100：(5～10):3:10:10：(0.5～3):5；
S3、采用取浆联合工艺，以50～100m/min及两浸两轧完成所述经纱染色和浆纱工艺，并以105～120℃热风干燥，随后并轴，与纬纱上机织造，得到所述聚乳酸纤维复合面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法，其特征在于，所述经纱的细度为30tex，所述经纱通过赛络纺或赛罗菲尔纺制造而成。
3.根据权利要求2所述棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法，其特征在于，所述经纱的棉纤维的比重为30％～60％，聚乳酸长丝比重为40％～70％。
4.根据权利要求3所述棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法，其特征在于，所述纬纱的细度为40tex，所述纬纱包括第一纬纱和第二纬纱；所述第一纬纱为棉纱；所述第二纬纱采用棉纤维为外包纤维、以氨纶纤维为芯纱且加强捻的包缠纱线。
5.根据权利要求4所述棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法，其特征在于，所述第二纬纱的棉纤维的比重为30％～60％，氨纶纤维比重为40％～70％。
6.根据权利要求5所述棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料的织造方法，其特征在于，所述经纱占所述棉-聚乳酸纤维复合面料重量的60％～70％。
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