CN117281762B - High-performance skin care composition and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents
High-performance skin care composition and preparation method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN117281762B CN117281762B CN202311589160.XA CN202311589160A CN117281762B CN 117281762 B CN117281762 B CN 117281762B CN 202311589160 A CN202311589160 A CN 202311589160A CN 117281762 B CN117281762 B CN 117281762B
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- glossy privet
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- privet fruit
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Classifications
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Abstract
The invention discloses a high-performance skin care composition, a preparation method and application thereof, and belongs to the field of cosmetics.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a high-performance skin care composition and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
In the prior art, a skin care cleaning product is generally required to have various performances including oil control, acne removal and the like besides basic cleaning and moisturizing performances, so that the components of the skin care cleaning product are more complex, and the problem is that the functional components in the skin care cleaning product are gradually increased, the skin care cleaning product is more prone to the property of medicines, and skin irritation can be caused to sensitive muscles or infant users.
On the other hand, some skin care cleansing products contain natural non-irritating oil-controlling and moisturizing plant source components, but the permeation efficiency of the components is low, the effect on the skin is very small under the condition of small addition and short-time use, if the proportion of the components is increased, the stability of the prepared skin care cleansing products is possibly reduced, adverse phenomena such as 'particle clusters', 'layering' and the like are easy to occur after the skin care cleansing products are stored for a period of time, the natural components are easy to be influenced by environment, the activity efficacy is rapidly attenuated with the passage of time, and the shelf life is short.
Disclosure of Invention
Based on the defects existing in the prior art, the invention aims to provide the high-performance skin care composition, the glossy privet fruit extract prepared by supercritical carbon dioxide extraction is used as a raw material, then the natural plant fermentation filtrate is prepared by lactobacillus fermentation, and finally the aloe extract, the specific type of amino acid surfactant and the thickening agent are compounded, so that the rapid permeation and absorption can be realized during use, the absorption process is mild and has no stimulation, good oil control and moisturizing effects are realized, meanwhile, the stability of the natural functional components is strong, the adverse phenomenon of the product is avoided, and the shelf life is long.
A high-performance skin care composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:
1-1.5 parts of glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate, 0.1-0.3 part of aloe extract, 1-3 parts of acrylamide dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer and 8-10 parts of N-amido surfactant;
the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate is obtained by fermenting glossy privet fruit extract by lactobacillus;
the fructus Ligustri Lucidi extract is obtained by supercritical carbon dioxide extraction of fructus Ligustri Lucidi.
The glossy privet fruit contains very abundant active ingredients including various kinds of polysaccharide, alkaloid, saturated and unsaturated fatty acid, vitamin and the like, wherein the prior art has been researched to show that the glossy privet fruit has a certain inhibition effect on 5 alpha-reductase in human skin, and the 5 alpha-reductase has a great relation with the secretion of sebaceous glands of the human body, so that the active ingredients in the fruit have a beneficial effect on controlling the secretion of grease of the human skin, and in addition, the natural plant also has a certain effect of improving the moisture content of the skin, so that the glossy privet fruit is an ideal skin care product ingredient in theory. However, experiments of the inventor find that the glossy privet fruit extract prepared by the traditional process has complex components, and when the glossy privet fruit extract is compounded to prepare skin care products, particularly products containing various surfactants and other active ingredients, the glossy privet fruit extract not only can cause unexpected performance due to component oxidation failure, but also can cause the conditions of color change and particle cluster generation after long-term storage of the products.
Therefore, the inventor firstly adopts supercritical extraction to extract the glossy privet fruit, the method can effectively extract active ingredients (including thermosensitive and easily-deformable components) in the glossy privet fruit, and then the obtained extract is fermented by lactobacillus, as lactobacillus can convert easily-oxidized substances such as fructose, starch, protein and the like in the extract into functional ingredients with active functions on skin, the prepared glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate has better oil control and moisturizing effects and stronger stability compared with the extract obtained by independently extracting or extracting the glossy privet fruit, and under the basis, the inventor adopts a specific amino acid surfactant N-amido surfactant and an organic surfactant ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer to compound, so that the component has stronger permeability after contacting skin, and the instant oil control effect is realized. If two of the surfactant systems are replaced, not only the activity effect of the fermentation filtrate of the glossy privet fruit extract is poor, but also the shelf life of the product is possibly shortened.
However, the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate alone cannot achieve the effect of rapid moisture retention, so the inventor takes aloe extract as a collocation type active efficacy component, and as a result, the inventor finds that after a small amount of aloe extract is introduced, the aloe extract and the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate can achieve obvious synergistic effect on the moisture retention effect, so that the product can achieve the high moisture retention in a short time.
Preferably, the N-amido surfactant is at least one of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium lauroyl glutamate.
The N-amido surfactant is a surfactant with high safety and good biocompatibility, and the substance contains rich hydrophilic groups, so that the N-amido surfactant can effectively serve as a transportation bridge between fermentation filtrate of glossy privet fruit extracts and aloe extracts and skin, and active substances from two plants can fully permeate into the skin to play roles in controlling oil and preserving moisture; on the other hand, after the organic surfactant thickener of the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer is matched, each component of the skin care composition has long-term stability even under the condition that a plurality of emulsifying agents are not introduced in the preparation process, so that the product can not have the problems of efficacy failure, shape change and the like after long-term storage; finally, the N-amido surfactant also has a certain antibacterial effect, and can further prolong the shelf life of the product.
Preferably, the preparation method of the glossy privet fruit extract comprises the following steps: crushing the cleaned and dried glossy privet fruits, placing the crushed glossy privet fruits into an extraction kettle containing 1L of supercritical carbon dioxide, and extracting for 2-4 hours at 25-35 ℃ and 20-40 MPa to obtain glossy privet fruit extracts;
more preferably, the flow rate of the supercritical carbon dioxide is 20-30L/h.
Preferably, the preparation method of the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate comprises the following steps: adding the glossy privet fruit extract into a fermentation medium, then inoculating lactobacillus, fermenting for 80-120 hours at 25-35 ℃, sterilizing, centrifuging, and removing solids to obtain the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate.
The glossy privet fruit extract has higher content of active substances compared with glossy privet fruit, so after lactobacillus is further inoculated for fermentation, unstable substances in the active substances or micromolecular substances with insignificant activity effect can be converted and consumed, and macromolecular active substances are converted into fermentation products with remarkable oil control and moisture preservation effects on skin, in the process, the inventor finds that the fermentation condition of lactobacillus can be carried out without special fermentation temperature only by adopting normal 25-35 ℃, the operation is convenient, the fermentation time has certain influence on the performance of the product, the fermentation time is too short, the conversion degree of the fermentation products is lower, the stability and the skin activity of the product are insufficient, but if the fermentation time is too long, partial active substances are converted excessively, the activity effect is reduced, and the effect is optimal by 80-120 h.
More preferably, the lactobacillus is inoculated in an amount of 1 to 2vol%.
More preferably, the fermentation medium comprises the following components in parts by weight based on 100 parts: 20-35 parts of glossy privet fruit extract, 5-10 parts of glucose, 1-5 parts of fructose, 5-10 parts of urea and the balance of water.
More preferably, the centrifugal speed is 3000-4000 r/min and the centrifugal time is 1-2 h when the solids are removed by centrifugation.
Preferably, the components of the high-performance skin care composition also contain 0.1-0.3 part of jojoba seed extract;
more preferably, the jojoba seed extract is obtained by extracting jojoba seeds with an ionic liquid.
More preferably, the preparation method of the jojoba seed extract comprises the following steps: crushing jojoba seeds, and mixing the crushed jojoba seeds with an ionic liquid according to the mass ratio of (1-3): (18-22) mixing, carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 20-30 min, carrying out solid phase separation, and carrying out decolorization treatment on the obtained liquid phase to obtain the jojoba seed extract.
More preferably, the ionic liquid is a mixture of glycine and alanine, and the mass ratio of the glycine to the alanine is (0.8-1.2): (0.8-1.2).
The jojoba seeds contain rich oil phase substances and are moisture-preserving components of traditional skin care products, but the product contains more unsaturated fatty acids with higher activity and is easy to be induced to deteriorate by external environment, so that after the skin care products are prepared, the moisture-preserving activity of the product can be attenuated along with the time, and even the long-acting moisture-preserving property of the product is influenced in the product, in order to overcome the defect of jojoba seed oil, the inventor extracts the jojoba seeds by ionic liquid of specific types, and compared with the jojoba seed oil prepared by traditional cold pressing and refining, the jojoba seed extract prepared by the invention has higher stability and component compatibility, can keep stability and bioactivity even under higher temperature and light, and can further improve the moisture-preserving property and activity long-acting property of the product.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a high performance skin care cleansing emulsion comprising the high performance skin care composition of the present invention.
Preferably, the high performance skin care cleansing emulsion further comprises a solvent;
more preferably, the solvent comprises water.
More preferably, the high-performance skin care facial cleanser comprises the following components in parts by weight based on 100 parts:
8-12 parts of glycerin, 1-1.5 parts of glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate, 0.1-0.3 part of aloe extract, 1-3 parts of acrylamide/VP copolymer, 1-3 parts of disodium cocoate monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate, 1-3 parts of corn starch, 8-10 parts of N-amido surfactant, 0.1-0.3 part of jojoba seed extract, 100.1-0.2 part of polyglycerol, 0.5-1 part of sodium alginate, 0.1-0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.1-0.5 part of hexanediol and the balance of water.
Under the combined action of the fermentation filtrate of the glossy privet fruit extract, the aloe extract and the jojoba seed extract, the high-performance skin care composition not only has synergistic oil control and moisturizing effects, but also has good activity timeliness and stability, after a specific type of surfactant and a thickener are compounded, the component stability of the product is strong, and obvious morphological change can not occur after long-term storage; the product has simple components, is safe and has no stimulation, is suitable for users with various skin conditions, and can effectively realize moisture preservation and oil control when the user uses the product for cleaning the face in a short time after compounding the high-performance skin care facial cleanser, and the effect is far better than that of the conventional product prepared by adopting other formulas after clinical experiments.
The invention also aims at providing a preparation method of the high-performance skin care facial cleanser, which comprises the following steps of:
adding proper water into the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, disodium cocoanut oleate monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate, corn starch, N-amido surfactant and polyglycerol-10, and uniformly mixing at 90-95 ℃ to obtain solution A;
adding proper water into glycerol, sodium alginate, p-hydroxyacetophenone and hexanediol, and uniformly mixing to obtain solution B;
and mixing and stirring the solution A and the solution B at 50-60 ℃ for 20-30 min, cooling, and then adding the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate, the aloe extract and the jojoba seed extract, and continuously and uniformly mixing to obtain the high-performance skin-care facial cleanser.
The invention has the beneficial effects that the invention provides the high-performance skin care composition, the glossy privet fruit extract prepared by supercritical carbon dioxide extraction is used as a raw material, then the natural plant fermentation filtrate is prepared by lactobacillus fermentation, and finally the aloe extract, the specific type of amino acid surfactant and the thickening agent are compounded, so that the high-performance skin care composition can realize rapid permeation and absorption during use, the absorption process is mild and has no stimulation, good oil control and moisturizing effects are realized, meanwhile, the stability of the natural functional components is strong, the adverse phenomenon of the product is avoided, and the shelf life is long.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples and comparative examples for better illustrating the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention, and the object of the present invention is to be understood in detail, not to limit the present invention. All other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art without the inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the present invention. The experimental reagents and instruments involved in the practice of the present invention are common reagents and instruments unless otherwise specified.
Examples 1 to 4
The high-performance skin care composition is used for preparing skin care facial cleanser, and the composition of the skin care facial cleanser is shown in table 1.
TABLE 1
The preparation method of the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate comprises the following steps:
(1) Pulverizing cleaned and dried fructus Ligustri Lucidi, placing into an extraction kettle containing 1L supercritical carbon dioxide with flow rate of 30L/h, extracting at 30deg.C under 30MPa for 2 hr, and removing excessive liquid phase to obtain fructus Ligustri Lucidi extract;
(2) Adding the glossy privet fruit extract into a fermentation medium, then inoculating 1vol% of lactobacillus, fermenting for 120 hours at 25-35 ℃, sterilizing, centrifuging the obtained mixture in a centrifuge at 3000r/min for 2 hours, and taking a liquid phase as a glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate; wherein the fermentation medium contains 25 parts of glossy privet fruit extract, 10 parts of glucose, 5 parts of fructose, 5 parts of urea and 55 parts of water.
The aloe extract is a commercial aloe vera extract product;
the preparation method of the jojoba seed extract comprises the following steps: crushing fresh and dried jojoba seeds, and mixing the crushed jojoba seeds with an ionic liquid according to a mass ratio of 2:20, mixing and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 30min, and carrying out solid phase separation, wherein the obtained liquid phase is decolorized by a commercially available alkaline fiber adsorption column to obtain the jojoba seed extract; the preparation method of the ionic liquid comprises the following steps: and (3) dissolving glycine and alanine in a mass ratio of 1:1 into water according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1g:10L, mixing and stirring for 48 hours, and performing rotary evaporation and drying to obtain the ionic liquid.
The preparation method of the skin care facial cleanser comprises the following steps:
adding proper water into the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, disodium cocoanut oleate monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate, corn starch, N-amido surfactant and polyglycerol-10, and uniformly mixing at 95 ℃ to obtain solution A;
adding proper water into glycerol, sodium alginate, p-hydroxyacetophenone and hexanediol, and uniformly mixing to obtain solution B;
mixing the solution A and the solution B at 60deg.C, stirring for 30min, cooling, adding fructus Ligustri Lucidi extract fermentation filtrate, aloe extract and jojoba seed extract (except in example 4), and mixing to obtain the high-performance skin care facial cleanser.
Example 5
The embodiment of the high-performance skin care composition, the preparation method and the application thereof, disclosed by the invention, are different from the embodiment 1 only in that the fermentation time of the fermentation filtrate of the glossy privet fruit extract is 80 hours.
Example 6
The embodiment of the high-performance skin care composition, the preparation method and the application thereof, disclosed by the invention, are different from the embodiment 1 only in that the fermentation time of the fermentation filtrate of the glossy privet fruit extract is 60 hours.
Example 7
The embodiment of the high-performance skin care composition, the preparation method and the application thereof, disclosed by the invention, are different from the embodiment 1 only in that the fermentation time of the fermentation filtrate of the glossy privet fruit extract is 140 hours.
Example 8
The embodiment of the invention, the preparation method and the application thereof are different from the embodiment 1 only in that the preparation method of the jojoba seed extract is as follows: crushing fresh and dried jojoba seeds, and mixing the crushed jojoba seeds with an ionic liquid according to a mass ratio of 2:20, mixing and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 30min, and carrying out solid phase separation, wherein the obtained liquid phase is decolorized by a commercially available alkaline fiber adsorption column to obtain the jojoba seed extract; the preparation method of the ionic liquid comprises the following steps: and (3) dissolving arginine and alanine in a mass ratio of 1:1 into water according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1g:10L, mixing and stirring for 48 hours, and performing rotary evaporation and drying to obtain the ionic liquid.
Example 9
The embodiment of the invention, the preparation method and the application thereof are different from the embodiment 1 only in that the preparation method of the jojoba seed extract is as follows: the preparation method of the jojoba seed extract comprises the following steps: crushing fresh and dried jojoba seeds, and mixing the crushed jojoba seeds with an ionic liquid according to a mass ratio of 2:20, mixing and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 30min, and carrying out solid phase separation, wherein the obtained liquid phase is decolorized by a commercially available alkaline fiber adsorption column to obtain the jojoba seed extract; the preparation method of the ionic liquid comprises the following steps: and (3) dissolving glycine and arginine in a mass ratio of 1:1 into water according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1g:10L, mixing and stirring for 48 hours, and performing rotary evaporation and drying to obtain the ionic liquid.
Example 10
The embodiment of the invention, the preparation method and the application thereof are different from the embodiment 1 only in that the preparation method of the jojoba seed extract is as follows: the preparation method of the jojoba seed extract comprises the following steps: crushing fresh and dried jojoba seeds, and mixing the crushed jojoba seeds with an ionic liquid according to a mass ratio of 2:20, mixing and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 30min, and carrying out solid phase separation, wherein the obtained liquid phase is decolorized by a commercially available alkaline fiber adsorption column to obtain the jojoba seed extract; the preparation method of the ionic liquid comprises the following steps: and (3) dissolving glycine in water according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1g to 10L, mixing and stirring for 48 hours, and performing rotary evaporation and drying to obtain the ionic liquid.
Example 11
The embodiment of the invention, the preparation method and the application thereof are different from the embodiment 1 only in that the preparation method of the jojoba seed extract is as follows: the preparation method of the jojoba seed extract comprises the following steps: crushing fresh and dried jojoba seeds, and mixing the crushed jojoba seeds with an ionic liquid according to a mass ratio of 2:20, mixing and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 30min, and carrying out solid phase separation, wherein the obtained liquid phase is decolorized by a commercially available alkaline fiber adsorption column to obtain the jojoba seed extract; the preparation method of the ionic liquid comprises the following steps: dissolving alanine in water according to a solid-to-liquid ratio of 1g to 10L, mixing and stirring for 48 hours, and spin-evaporating and drying to obtain the ionic liquid.
Example 12
The high performance skin care composition, the preparation method and the application example of the high performance skin care composition are different from the example 1 only in that the jojoba seed extract is replaced by commercially available jojoba seed oil.
Comparative example 1
An embodiment of a skin care composition, a preparation method and an application thereof are different from embodiment 1 only in that the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate is replaced by a glossy privet fruit extract, and the preparation method of the glossy privet fruit extract is as follows: pulverizing cleaned and dried fructus Ligustri Lucidi, extracting with ethanol at 30deg.C under 30MPa for 2 hr, leaching for 5 times, filtering to obtain solid, and volatilizing the liquid phase to obtain fructus Ligustri Lucidi extract.
Comparative example 2
An embodiment of a skin care composition, a preparation method and an application thereof are different from embodiment 1 only in that the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate is replaced by a glossy privet fruit extract, and the preparation method of the glossy privet fruit extract is as follows: pulverizing 5g of cleaned and dried fructus Ligustri Lucidi, adding 500mL of water, mixing at 60deg.C, stirring for 2 hr, filtering to obtain solid, and naturally drying the liquid phase to obtain fructus Ligustri Lucidi extract.
Comparative example 3
An embodiment of a skin care composition, a preparation method and an application thereof, which are different from embodiment 1 only in that the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate is replaced by a glossy privet fruit fermentation product, and the preparation method of the glossy privet fruit fermentation product is as follows:
pulverizing the cleaned and dried glossy privet fruits, adding the crushed glossy privet fruits into a fermentation medium, inoculating 1vol% of lactobacillus, fermenting for 120 hours at 25-35 ℃, sterilizing, centrifuging the obtained mixture in a centrifuge at 3000r/min for 2 hours, and taking a liquid phase as a glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate; wherein the fermentation medium contains 25 parts of glossy privet fruits, 10 parts of glucose, 5 parts of fructose, 5 parts of urea and 55 parts of water.
Comparative example 4
An embodiment of a skin care composition, a preparation method and an application thereof are different from embodiment 1 only in that the preparation method of the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate is as follows:
(1) Pulverizing cleaned and dried fructus Ligustri Lucidi, extracting with ethanol at 30deg.C under 30MPa for 2 hr, leaching for 5 times, filtering to obtain solid, and volatilizing the liquid phase to obtain extract A; the solids were then mixed according to 1g: mixing 100mL of water at 60deg.C, stirring for 2h, filtering to obtain solid, naturally drying the liquid phase to obtain extract B, and mixing extract A and extract B to obtain fructus Ligustri Lucidi extract;
(2) Adding the glossy privet fruit extract into a fermentation medium, then inoculating 1vol% of lactobacillus, fermenting for 120 hours at 25-35 ℃, sterilizing, centrifuging the obtained mixture in a centrifuge at 3000r/min for 2 hours, and taking a liquid phase as a glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate; wherein the fermentation medium contains 25 parts of glossy privet fruit extract, 10 parts of glucose, 5 parts of fructose, 5 parts of urea and 55 parts of water.
Comparative example 5
Examples of skin care compositions, methods of making and using the same, differ from example 1 only in that the aloe vera extract is replaced with a commercially available witch hazel extract.
Comparative example 6
Examples of skin care compositions, methods of making the same, and uses thereof, differ from example 1 only in that the aloe vera extract is replaced with commercially available hyaluronic acid.
Comparative example 7
Examples of skin care compositions, methods of making and using the same, differ from example 1 only in that the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate is replaced with a commercially available camellia seed extract.
Comparative example 8
A skin care composition, a preparation method and an application example thereof are different from the example 1 only in that the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate is replaced by a tea seed extract fermentation filtrate prepared by fresh and dried tea seeds according to the same extraction and fermentation method.
Comparative example 9
Examples of skin care compositions, methods of making and using the same, differ from example 1 only in that sodium lauroyl sarcosinate is replaced with sodium myristoyl sarcosinate.
Comparative example 10
Examples of skin care compositions, methods of making and using the same, differ from example 1 only in that sodium lauroyl sarcosinate is replaced with sodium palmitoyl glycinate.
Comparative example 11
Examples of skin care compositions, methods of making the same, and applications thereof, differ from example 1 only in that the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer is replaced with a dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
Effect example 1
To verify the mildness of the skin care cleansing milk prepared from each high performance skin care composition of the present invention, each example product was subjected to an acute eye irritation test: taking New Zealand rabbits of biological technology limited company of Shaanxi, testing according to chapter 2015 of cosmetic safety technical Specification, checking two eyes of the New Zealand rabbits with sodium fluorescein for 24 hours before starting to confirm that eyes are normal, and then respectively taking 0.1g of the products prepared in each example into conjunctiva bags of one eye of the animal, so that the upper eyelid and the lower eyelid are closed for 1s to 30s, washing with water, and taking the eyes of the other side as blank control; the test was performed at 1h, 24h, 48h, 72h, day 4 and day 7 after the dropping test, and if the stimulus response did not occur for 72h, the test was terminated, and if the stimulus was found to occur, the test was not recovered for 7 days, and the test was considered to have the stimulus.
The animals were evaluated for the highest integral of the stimulus response and recovery time at 24h, 48h or 72h, respectively, after dosing, the cornea, iris or conjunctiva.
The results show that the integral evaluation of the products of each example is 0, indicating that the products of each example are non-irritating.
Subsequently, each product was allowed to stand for 1 month, and the same test was repeated, and the result was the same as the initial result, indicating that the mildness of each product had long-lasting effect.
Effect example 2
In order to verify the oil control property and long-acting oil control property of the skin care cleansing cream prepared by each high-performance skin care composition of the invention, each example product and comparative example product were subjected to an inhibition test of 5α -reductase (the enzyme can excessively secrete oil from sebaceous glands), and the test method is as follows: taking 5α -reductase provided by university of Guangdong medical science as an experimental object, (1) a sample tube: mixing 1mL of the product of the example or the comparative example, 1mL of enzyme solution, 1mL of NADPH and 1mL of testosterone in a test tube, taking 200 mu L of the mixture in a 96-well ELISA plate by a pipette, making three parallel samples, placing the samples into an ELISA instrument (BioTekSynergy LX) for detection, measuring the absorbance at 340mm, and taking an average value to obtain A 0 Incubating the sample at 37deg.C for 20min, repeatedly measuring, and taking average value to obtain A 20 The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the (2) enzyme tube: mixing 1mLPBS solution, 1mL enzyme solution, 1mL NADPH and 1mL testosterone in a test tube, taking 200 mu L of the mixture in a 96-hole ELISA plate by a pipette, making three parallel samples, placing the samples into an ELISA instrument (BioTekSynergy LX) for detection, measuring the absorbance at 340mm, taking an average value to obtain A Enzyme 0 Incubating the sample at 37deg.C for 20min, repeating the measurement, and levelingThe average value is A Enzyme 20 The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the Blank and positive control are simultaneously made, and the additive of the positive control is finasteride with the concentration of 2.5mmol/L.
The inhibition ratio of 5α -reductase of each sample was calculated as: inhibition (%) =100 [1- (a) 0 -A 20 ）/（A Enzyme 0 -A Enzyme 20 ）。
The results are shown in Table 2. It can be seen that the inhibition rate of the products of each embodiment can be maintained to be more than 90%, and the comparative products corresponding to the glossy privet fruit active substances prepared by different preparation methods and the products prepared by different active ingredients can not achieve the corresponding effects.
Subsequently, the products of each example and comparative example were allowed to stand at 42℃for 72 hours while applying a fluorescent lamp (the sample was left open under the fluorescent lamp), and whether or not the appearance of the products had oil-water separation, precipitation, thinning or discoloration phenomenon was observed, and then the same test was performed according to the above-described method, and the results are shown in Table 3.
The results show that the products of the examples still have good stability and oil control properties under hot and light environments, while the products of the comparative examples, especially the products employing surfactants and thickeners outside the limits of the present invention, exhibit phenomena such as particle precipitation and discoloration, and at the same time the oil control effect is significantly reduced, failing to maintain long-term efficacy.
Subsequently, the products of each example and comparative example were allowed to stand at room temperature of 25℃for 3 months, and whether the appearance of the products had oil-water separation, precipitation, thinning or discoloration phenomenon was observed, and then the same test was conducted in accordance with the above-described method, and the results are shown in Table 4.
TABLE 2
TABLE 3 Table 3
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TABLE 4 Table 4
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As can be seen from table 4, similar to the photo-thermal resistance experiment, the product of each example has no obvious change of the oil control effect compared with the initial state, which indicates that the product has ideal oil control long-term effect, wherein according to example 1, example 4 and examples 8 to 12, the jojoba seed extract in the product has no great improvement of the oil control effect, but the stability of the active substance of the jojoba seed extract may affect the oil control long-term effect of the product, and the stability of the extract prepared by the specific ionic liquid process is optimal. The obvious oil control effect attenuation of the comparative example products also appears, which indicates that the oil control active ingredients in the comparative example products are lost or deteriorated in the standing period of 3 months, and even the products have particle agglomeration phenomenon and discoloration phenomenon due to the conversion of active substances, and the appearance is influenced.
Effect example 3
In order to verify the moisturizing property, long-acting moisturizing stability and actual use oil control effect of the skin care cleansing emulsion prepared by the high-performance skin care composition, a volunteer actual use test is adopted, and the test method comprises the following steps: screening a plurality of volunteers with 20-30 years old, no facial skin diseases and allergic medical history of cosmetic skin care products, respectively adopting CornomemerCM 82 skin moisture probes and German CK skin fat tester SebumemerSM 815 to test the moisture content and the fat content of the cheek parts of each volunteer (the cheek part is cleaned by clean water, the test area is 2 multiplied by 2 cm), screening 230 volunteers with the moisture content and the fat content close to each other, dividing the volunteers into 23 groups, namely 10 for men and women, respectively corresponding to the skin care facial cleaner used for left face and face cleaning by using each example and comparative example, adopting fingers for evenly rubbing for 2-3 min during use, adopting two instruments for further recording the moisture content and the fat content of the cheeks at two sides as initial values; after standing at room temperature and normal pressure for 3 hours, the moisture content and the oil content of the cheeks at both sides were further recorded again by using two instruments, and then the results of the moisture and oil change rates of the products of each example and comparative example after 2 hours of use were recorded as shown in table 5, wherein the skin moisture content change rate (%) = (initial moisture content value-initial moisture content after use)/initial moisture content value×100%, the skin oil content change rate (%) = (initial oil content after use-initial oil content value)/initial oil content value×100%, and the average value of each group was finally calculated as statistics.
TABLE 5
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As can be seen from the table, after the product of each embodiment of the invention is used, the moisturizing effect of the facial skin of a user is obviously enhanced, the minimum change rate of 1.22% of skin moisture can be maintained after 3 hours, and meanwhile, the product has instant oil control effect, and the oil growth rate is reduced by about 100%.
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only for illustrating the technical solution of the present invention and not for limiting the scope of the present invention, and although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that the technical solution of the present invention may be modified or substituted equally without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solution of the present invention.
Claims (2)
1. The high-performance skin-care facial cleanser is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts:
8-12 parts of glycerin, 1-1.5 parts of glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate, 0.1-0.3 part of aloe extract, 1-3 parts of acrylamide dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, 5 parts of disodium cocoate monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate, 8 parts or 10 parts of corn starch, 1-3 parts of N-amido surfactant, 0.1-0.3 part of jojoba seed extract, 0.1-0.2 part of polyglycerol, 0.5-1 part of sodium alginate, 0.1-0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.1-0.5 part of hexanediol and the balance of water;
the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate is obtained by fermenting glossy privet fruit extract by lactobacillus;
the fructus Ligustri Lucidi extract is obtained by supercritical carbon dioxide extraction of fructus Ligustri Lucidi;
the preparation method of the glossy privet fruit extract comprises the following steps: crushing the cleaned and dried glossy privet fruits, placing the crushed glossy privet fruits into an extraction kettle containing 1L of supercritical carbon dioxide, and extracting for 2-4 hours at 25-35 ℃ and 20-40 MPa to obtain glossy privet fruit extracts;
the preparation method of the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate comprises the following steps: adding the glossy privet fruit extract into a fermentation medium, then inoculating lactobacillus, fermenting for 80-120 hours at 25-35 ℃, sterilizing, centrifuging to remove solids, and obtaining a glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate;
the jojoba seed extract is obtained by extracting jojoba seeds by using ionic liquid;
the preparation method of the jojoba seed extract comprises the following steps: crushing jojoba seeds, and mixing the crushed jojoba seeds with an ionic liquid according to the mass ratio of (1-3): (18-22) mixing, carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 20-30 min, carrying out solid phase separation, and carrying out decolorization treatment on the obtained liquid phase to obtain the jojoba seed extract;
the ionic liquid is a mixture of glycine and alanine, and the mass ratio of the glycine to the alanine is (0.8-1.2): (0.8-1.2);
the N-amido surfactant is at least one of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium lauroyl glutamate.
2. The method for preparing the high-performance skin-care facial cleanser according to claim 1, which comprises the following steps:
adding proper water into the ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, disodium cocoanut oleate monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate, corn starch, N-amido surfactant and polyglycerol-10, and uniformly mixing at 90-95 ℃ to obtain solution A;
adding proper water into glycerol, sodium alginate, p-hydroxyacetophenone and hexanediol, and uniformly mixing to obtain solution B;
and mixing and stirring the solution A and the solution B at 50-60 ℃ for 20-30 min, cooling, and then adding the glossy privet fruit extract fermentation filtrate, the aloe extract and the jojoba seed extract, and continuously and uniformly mixing to obtain the high-performance skin-care facial cleanser.
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