CN116963709A - 多层乳液化妆品组合物 - Google Patents
多层乳液化妆品组合物 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN116963709A CN116963709A CN202280017518.9A CN202280017518A CN116963709A CN 116963709 A CN116963709 A CN 116963709A CN 202280017518 A CN202280017518 A CN 202280017518A CN 116963709 A CN116963709 A CN 116963709A
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- Prior art keywords
- salt
- cosmetic composition
- phase
- emulsion cosmetic
- hydrogel
- Prior art date
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- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 50
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 42
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 40
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 claims description 57
- -1 alkali metal salt Chemical class 0.000 claims description 41
- 239000000017 hydrogel Substances 0.000 claims description 31
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Chemical compound O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 28
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 22
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- 239000008385 outer phase Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 229920001353 Dextrin Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000004375 Dextrin Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 235000019425 dextrin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 9
- 229910052783 alkali metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 8
- 229910052784 alkaline earth metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000008384 inner phase Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- SHZIWNPUGXLXDT-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethyl hexanoate Chemical compound CCCCCC(=O)OCC SHZIWNPUGXLXDT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
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- 229940029339 inulin Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
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- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- OKMWKBLSFKFYGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-behenoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO OKMWKBLSFKFYGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- FHVDTGUDJYJELY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 6-{[2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxy-6-(phosphanyloxy)oxan-3-yl]oxy}-4,5-dihydroxy-3-phosphanyloxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound O1C(C(O)=O)C(P)C(O)C(O)C1OC1C(C(O)=O)OC(OP)C(O)C1O FHVDTGUDJYJELY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001661 Chitosan Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 102000008186 Collagen Human genes 0.000 claims description 3
- 108010035532 Collagen Proteins 0.000 claims description 3
- 108010010803 Gelatin Proteins 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002907 Guar gum Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920003188 Nylon 3 Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940072056 alginate Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000615 alginic acid Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000010443 alginic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 159000000007 calcium salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001525 carrageenan Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 3
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- 229920001436 collagen Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940107187 fructooligosaccharide Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000008273 gelatin Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000159 gelatin Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940014259 gelatin Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000019322 gelatine Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000011852 gelatine desserts Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940049654 glyceryl behenate Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000010417 guar gum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000665 guar gum Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229960002154 guar gum Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000010420 locust bean gum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001083 polybutene Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- FMZUHGYZWYNSOA-VVBFYGJXSA-N (1r)-1-[(4r,4ar,8as)-2,6-diphenyl-4,4a,8,8a-tetrahydro-[1,3]dioxino[5,4-d][1,3]dioxin-4-yl]ethane-1,2-diol Chemical compound C([C@@H]1OC(O[C@@H]([C@@H]1O1)[C@H](O)CO)C=2C=CC=CC=2)OC1C1=CC=CC=C1 FMZUHGYZWYNSOA-VVBFYGJXSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- AVBJHQDHVYGQLS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(dodecanoylamino)pentanedioic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NC(C(O)=O)CCC(O)=O AVBJHQDHVYGQLS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- OBETXYAYXDNJHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Ethylhexanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)C(O)=O OBETXYAYXDNJHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- 229920000161 Locust bean gum Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- ZPVGIKNDGJGLCO-VGAMQAOUSA-N [(2s,3r,4s,5s,6r)-2-[(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-2,5-bis(hydroxymethyl)oxolan-2-yl]-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl] hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)O[C@@]1([C@]2(CO)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O ZPVGIKNDGJGLCO-VGAMQAOUSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N [(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-5-(hydroxymethyl)-2-[(2r,3r,4s,5s,6r)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxyoxolan-2-yl]methyl octadecanoate Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1)O)[C@]1(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 159000000009 barium salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- PPYIVKOTTQCYIV-UHFFFAOYSA-L beryllium;selenate Chemical compound [Be+2].[O-][Se]([O-])(=O)=O PPYIVKOTTQCYIV-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000010418 carrageenan Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000679 carrageenan Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940113118 carrageenan Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940087101 dibenzylidene sorbitol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- FTSSQIKWUOOEGC-RULYVFMPSA-N fructooligosaccharide Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@@](CO)(OC[C@@]2(OC[C@@]3(OC[C@@]4(OC[C@@]5(OC[C@@]6(OC[C@@]7(OC[C@@]8(OC[C@@]9(OC[C@@]%10(OC[C@@]%11(O[C@H]%12O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]%12O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]%11O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]%10O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]9O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]8O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]7O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]6O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]5O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]4O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]3O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]2O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O FTSSQIKWUOOEGC-RULYVFMPSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- VKOBVWXKNCXXDE-UHFFFAOYSA-N icosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O VKOBVWXKNCXXDE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- JYJIGFIDKWBXDU-MNNPPOADSA-N inulin Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)OC[C@]1(OC[C@]2(OC[C@]3(OC[C@]4(OC[C@]5(OC[C@]6(OC[C@]7(OC[C@]8(OC[C@]9(OC[C@]%10(OC[C@]%11(OC[C@]%12(OC[C@]%13(OC[C@]%14(OC[C@]%15(OC[C@]%16(OC[C@]%17(OC[C@]%18(OC[C@]%19(OC[C@]%20(OC[C@]%21(OC[C@]%22(OC[C@]%23(OC[C@]%24(OC[C@]%25(OC[C@]%26(OC[C@]%27(OC[C@]%28(OC[C@]%29(OC[C@]%30(OC[C@]%31(OC[C@]%32(OC[C@]%33(OC[C@]%34(OC[C@]%35(OC[C@]%36(O[C@@H]%37[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%37)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%36)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%35)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%34)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%33)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%32)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%31)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%30)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%29)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%28)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%27)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%26)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%25)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%24)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%23)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%22)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%21)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%20)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%19)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%18)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%17)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%16)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%15)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%14)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%13)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%12)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%11)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O%10)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O9)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O8)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O7)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O6)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O5)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O4)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O3)O)[C@H]([C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 JYJIGFIDKWBXDU-MNNPPOADSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910003002 lithium salt Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 159000000002 lithium salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 159000000003 magnesium salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940105132 myristate Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001277 pectin Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001814 pectin Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000010987 pectin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000003013 phosphoric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- XAEFZNCEHLXOMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M potassium benzoate Chemical compound [K+].[O-]C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 XAEFZNCEHLXOMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000003255 radium Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 159000000000 sodium salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 159000000008 strontium salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 claims description 2
- WCOXQTXVACYMLM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-bis(12-hydroxyoctadecanoyloxy)propyl 12-hydroxyoctadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC WCOXQTXVACYMLM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 229920002148 Gellan gum Polymers 0.000 claims 1
- 239000005058 Isophorone diisocyanate Substances 0.000 claims 1
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- 235000010492 gellan gum Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
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- 229960000292 pectin Drugs 0.000 claims 1
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- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 abstract description 9
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 24
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 20
- 239000002552 dosage form Substances 0.000 description 20
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 10
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 8
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 7
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- WMFOQBRAJBCJND-UHFFFAOYSA-M Lithium hydroxide Chemical compound [Li+].[OH-] WMFOQBRAJBCJND-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 6
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- VYGQUTWHTHXGQB-FFHKNEKCSA-N Retinol Palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C VYGQUTWHTHXGQB-FFHKNEKCSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 4
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- BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-RMPHRYRLSA-N hydroquinone O-beta-D-glucopyranoside Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1OC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-RMPHRYRLSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- FQENQNTWSFEDLI-UHFFFAOYSA-J sodium diphosphate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]P([O-])(=O)OP([O-])([O-])=O FQENQNTWSFEDLI-UHFFFAOYSA-J 0.000 description 3
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- KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N (2S,3S,4S,5R,6R)-6-[(2S,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-Acetamido-2-[(2S,3S,4R,5R,6R)-6-[(2R,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N 0.000 description 2
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种不含表面活性剂且表现出优异稳定性的多层乳液化妆品组合物。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品组合物,具体涉及一种包括水凝胶(hydrogel)层的内相、有机凝胶(organogel)层的中间相和水(water)层的外相的多层乳液化妆品组合物。
背景技术
用于向皮肤提供各种功效成分的多种类型的乳化型化妆品正在被使用,乳化型化妆品按剂型通常分为水包油(oil-in-water、O/W)型和油包水(water-in-oil、W/O)型。它们均包含油相和水相,可以提供柔化效果和保湿效果。然而,水包油剂型由于外相为水,虽然涂抹时清爽,涂抹性优异,但存在化妆持久性和耐水性差的缺点。相反,对于油包水剂型,虽然化妆持久性和耐水性优异,但由于粘腻和油腻感等而无法提供清爽感,存在涂抹性、铺展性等使用感不良的缺点。另外,对于各种功效成分中的不稳定成分,在现有的乳化型化妆品内难以稳定负载,存在功效成分从剂型内析出或分离等问题。
作为上述现有乳化型化妆品的替代方案,正在研究同时具有O/W型化妆品和W/O型化妆品优点的水包油包水(W/O/W)型的多层乳液化妆品。不过,W/O/W型是在内水相与外水相之间存在油相的形态,由于外水相与内水相的电解度浓度差导致的渗透压现象等,界面膜容易破损或容易出现相转换现象,在确保稳定性方面存在困难。为了适当调节水相与油相的比率以实现优异的使用感和界面膜的稳定性,通常使用表面活性剂,但这不符合近来消费者喜好对皮肤和环境安全的成分的倾向。因此,需要开发一种在不含表面活性剂的同时水相与油相之间的界面膜稳定度优异的多层乳液化妆品组合物。
发明内容
技术课题
本发明提供一种不含表面活性剂且表现出优异稳定性的多层乳液化妆品组合物。
技术方案
本发明的多层乳液化妆品组合物包括水凝胶(hydrogel)层的内相、有机凝胶(organogel)层的中间相和水(water)层的外相。
发明效果
本发明提供一种不含表面活性剂但水相与油相之间的界面膜稳定度高从而表现出优异稳定性的多层乳液化妆品组合物。本发明的化妆品组合物不含表面活性剂,因而皮肤刺激小,环保,作为多层乳液剂型,涂抹性、铺展性、使用感优异且化妆持久性和耐水性也优异。另外,本发明的化妆品组合物由于多层乳液在结构特性方面中间相和内相不与空气接触,因而适合于将由油溶性和水溶性构成的有效成分作为一种剂型同时实现稳定化。
附图说明
图1是实施例1的中间相的显微镜照片。
图2是比较例1的中间相的显微镜照片。
图3是比较例3的中间相的显微镜照片。
图4是实施例4的W/O剂型的显微镜照片。
图5是实施例5的W/O剂型的显微镜照片。
图6是实施例6的W/O剂型的显微镜照片。
图7是实施例7的W/O/W剂型的显微镜照片。
具体实施方式
下面对本发明进行描述。但是,本发明并非只由下述内容所限定,根据需要,各构成要素可以多样地变形或选择性地混用。因此,应理解为包括本发明的思想及技术范围内的所有变更、均等物乃至替代物。
本发明涉及多层乳液化妆品组合物,包括水凝胶(hydrogel)层的内相、有机凝胶(organogel)层的中间相和水(water)层的外相。
内相
本发明的多层乳液化妆品组合物的内相作为水凝胶(hydrogel)层,包含纯化水、水凝胶形成物质和盐。
所述水凝胶形成物质可以使用相应技术领域已知的用作形成水凝胶结构的物质。例如,所述水凝胶形成物质有结冷胶(Gellan Gum)、琼脂(Agar)、卡拉胶(Carrageenan)、海藻酸盐(Alginate)、果胶(Pectin)、明胶(Gelatin)、黄原胶(Xanthan gum)、角豆胶(LBG)、瓜尔豆胶(Guar Gum)、淀粉(Starch)、壳聚糖(Chitosan)、纤维素(Cellulose)、胶原(Collagen)等,它们可以单独使用或两种以上混合使用。
以内相总重量为基准可以包含所述水凝胶形成物质0.05至10重量%,例如0.1至5重量%。水凝胶形成物质的含量小于前述范围时,水凝胶无法形成,超过前述范围时,由于硬度上升可能导致水凝胶无法在皮肤上破裂。
所述盐包括碱金属盐及碱土金属盐中一种以上的盐及磷酸盐。碱金属盐及碱土金属盐发挥使水凝胶固化的作用,磷酸盐发挥延缓固化速度的作用。因此,通过混用所述两种盐,可以稳定地形成多层乳液的水凝胶相。
所述碱金属盐及碱土金属盐可以使用钙盐、铍盐、镁盐、锶盐、钡盐、镭盐、钾盐、钠盐和锂盐等。作为一个示例,可以使用氯化钙(Calcium Chloride)、硫酸钙(CalciumSulfate)、碳酸钙(Calcium Carbonate)、氯化钾(Potassium Chloride)、碳酸氢钾(Potassium Bicarbonate)、氢氧化钾(Potassium hydroxide)、氢氧化钠(Sodiumhydroxide)、氢氧化锂(Lithium hydroxide)等,它们可以单独使用或两种以上混合使用。
以内相总重量为基准,可以包含所述碱金属盐及碱土金属盐中一种以上的盐0.005至0.5重量%,例如0.01至0.25重量%。碱金属盐及碱土金属盐中一种以上的盐的含量小于前述范围时,使水凝胶固化的程度会不充分,超过前述范围时,由于反应性过高,会难以使水凝胶均匀固化。
所述磷酸盐可以使用焦磷酸四钠(Tetrasodium Pyrophosphate)、磷酸三钠(Trisodium Phosphate)、四聚磷酸钠(Sodium Tetraphosphate)、三聚磷酸钠(SodiumTripolyphosphate)、磷酸钠(Sodium Phosphate)、焦磷酸二氢二钠(DisodiumPyrophosphate)等,它们可以单独使用或两种以上混合使用。
以内相总重量为基准,可以包含所述磷酸盐0.0025至0.25重量%,例如0.005至0.125重量%。磷酸盐的含量小于前述范围时,延缓固化速度的效果不充分,会导致固化速度过快,从而影响颗粒大小的均匀性,超过前述范围时,固化速度延缓效果过强,会导致固化速度过慢从而妨碍凝胶形成,难以形成球形颗粒。
所述内相可以包含有效成分。作为一个示例,可以包含烟酰胺(niacinamide)、腺苷(adenosine)、透明质酸(hyaluronic acid)、壬二酸(Azelaic acid)、抗坏血酸(Ascorbic acid)、曲酸(Kojic acid)、乙醇酸(Glycolic acid)、熊果苷(Arbutin)、缩氨酸(peptides)等。
可以以满足内相总重量(100重量%)的量包含纯化水。
中间相
本发明的多层乳液化妆品组合物的中间相作为有机凝胶(organogel)层,包括油和有机凝胶形成物质。
所述有机凝胶形成物质发挥形成有机凝胶结构的作用,即形成由亲油性溶剂构成的三维网络结构。如果在中间相中形成有机凝胶,则与油和增稠剂一同保持网络结构,其结果是即使不使用乳化剂(表面活性剂),也可以在无界面膜破损或相转换的情况下形成稳定的多层乳液。
所述有机凝胶形成物质可以使用诸如N-月桂酰-L-谷氨酸、α,γ-二正丁胺等的氨基酸衍生物,诸如糊精棕榈酸酯、糊精硬脂酸酯、糊精棕榈酸酯/乙基己酸酯、糊精肉豆蔻酸酯等的糊精脂肪酸酯,诸如蔗糖棕榈酸酯、蔗糖硬脂酸酯等的蔗糖脂肪酸酯,诸如菊粉硬脂酸酯、低聚果糖2-乙基己酸酯等的低聚果糖脂肪酸酯,诸如单亚苄基山梨醇、二亚苄基山梨醇等的亚苄基山梨醇衍生物,聚氨酯-79(Polyurethane-79)、聚乙烯(Polyethylene)、甘油山嵛酸酯(Glyceryl Behenate)、甘油山嵛酸酯/二十酸酯(Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate)、硬脂酰菊粉(Stearoyl Inulin)、三羟基硬脂精(Trihydroxystearin)、聚丁烯(Polybutene)、聚酰胺-2(Polyamide-2)、聚酰胺-3(Polyamide-3)、聚酰胺-5(Polyamide-5)、聚酰胺-8(Polyamide-8)、氢化植物油(Hydrogenated vegetable oil)、异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯共聚物(IPDI Copolymer)等,它们可以单独使用或两种以上混合使用。
以中间相总重量为基准,可以包含所述有机凝胶形成物质5至40重量%,例如10至20重量%。有机凝胶形成物质的含量小于前述范围时,有机凝胶无法形成或即使形成也形成得较弱,可能导致颗粒维持力和稳定度低下,超过前述范围时,粘度和硬度升高,不仅会损害使用感,而且可能导致难以制备多层乳液。
所述中间相可以包含稳定剂。所述稳定剂发挥增稠效果和阻止出油的效果,从而增进有机凝胶的稳定,保持稳定的多层乳液。
作为所述稳定剂,可以使用二硬脂二甲铵锂蒙脱石(DisteardimoniumHectorite)、司拉氯铵水辉石(Stearalkonium Hectorite)、季铵盐-18水辉石(Quaternium-18Hectorite)、二(氢化牛脂基)苄基甲铵基赫克陀酸盐(DihydrogenatedTallow Benzylmonium Hectorite)、蒙脱土(Montmorillonite)、膨润土(Bentonite)、硅镁土(Attapulgite)、海泡石(Sepiolite)、硅酸钙(Calcium Silicate)、硅石(Silica)、甲硅烷基化硅石(Silica Silylate)、二甲基甲硅烷基化硅石(Silica Dimethyl Silylate)、聚甲基硅倍半氧烷/硅石交联聚合物(Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer)、云母(Mica)、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯(Polymethyl Methacrylate)、锦纶-6(Nylon-6)、氧化铁(Iron Oxides)、氧化锡(Tin Oxide)、甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物(Methyl MethacrylateCrosspolymer)、二氧化钛(Titanium Dioxide)、合成氟金云母(SyntheticFluorphlogopite)、聚甲基硅倍半氧烷(Polymethylsilsesquioxane)等,它们可以单独使用或两种以上混合使用。
以中间相总重量为基准,可以包含所述稳定剂5至40重量%,例如10至20重量%。稳定剂的含量小于前述范围时,所形成的有机凝胶的高温及长期稳定度强化效果会不足,超过前述范围时,粘度和硬度升高,不仅会损害使用感,而且可能导致难以制备多层乳液。
所述油可以没有特殊限制地使用相应技术领域使用的油。例如,所述油可以使用矿物油、异十六烷、异硬脂醇异硬脂酸酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、己二酸二异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、新戊酸异癸酯、鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯、辛基十二醇肉豆蔻酸酯、二C12-13醇苹果酸酯、季戊四醇四异硬脂酸酯、季戊四醇四乙基己酸酯、二异硬脂醇苹果酸酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、C12-15烷基苯甲酸酯、碳酸二辛酯、二辛基醚、2-辛基十二醇、聚二甲基硅氧烷、月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷、环五硅氧烷、环六硅氧烷、三硅氧烷、甲基聚三甲基硅氧烷、氨基聚二甲基硅氧烷、苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、苯基聚甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇、聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇乙酸酯、有机硅乙二醇共聚醇、聚二甲基硅氧烷醇、甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇甲基醚、甲基环聚硅氧烷、二甲基聚硅氧烷、六甲基二硅氧烷、氨丙基聚二甲基硅氧烷、癸酰基甲基聚硅氧烷、西甲硅油(simethicone)等,它们可以单独使用或两种以上混合使用。
所述中间相可以包含有效成分。作为一个示例,可以包含视黄醇棕榈酸酯(Retinyl Palmitate)、视黄醇(Retinol)、视黄醛(Retinal)、维甲酸(Tretinoin)、视黄酸(Retinoic Acid)、阿达帕林(Adapalene)、他扎罗汀(Tazarotene)、异维甲酸(Isotretinoin)、钙化醇(Calciferol)、生育酚(Tocopherol)、维生素K-1(Phytonadione)等。
可以以满足中间相总重量(100重量%)的量包含所述油。
所述中间相的有机凝胶的硬度可以为5至60Dyne/cm2,例如10至30Dyne/cm2。有机凝胶的硬度小于前述范围时,因无法进行凝胶化,难以保持颗粒形态,其结果是会无法保持多层乳液结构。相反,超过前述范围时,因硬化速度快,不适合形成多层乳液,在皮肤上的铺展性会变差。
外相
本发明的多层乳液化妆品组合物的外相作为水(water)层,包含纯化水。
所述外相可以包含水溶性增稠剂。外相中存在的水溶性增稠剂发挥保持所述中间相与所述内相中颗粒稳定度(下沉/上浮)的作用。
所述水溶性增稠剂可以使用卡波姆(Carbomer)、聚丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠(Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate)、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-11(PolyacrylateCrosspolymer-11)、丙烯酸-丙烯酸酯共聚物(Acrylates Copolymer)、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物(Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer)、卡波姆丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/乙烯基吡咯烷酮共聚物(Carbomer AmmoniumAcryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer)、聚丙烯酸钠(Sodium Polyacrylate)、纤维素胶(cellulose Gum)、羟乙基纤维素(hydroxyethylcellulose)、乙基纤维素(ethylcellulose)、羧甲基羟丙基瓜儿胶(Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar)、黄原胶(Xanthan Gum)、阿拉伯胶(Gum Arabic)、瓜尔豆胶(Guar Gum)等,它们可以单独使用或两种以上混合使用。
以外相总重量为基准,可以包含所述水溶性增稠剂0.05至10重量%,例如0.1至5重量%。水溶性增稠剂的含量小于前述范围时,因粘度低,颗粒稳定度会变差,超过前述范围时,因粘度高,铺展性、粘腻等使用感会变差,会难以制备多层乳液。
所述外相可以包含多元醇。所述多元醇可以使用甘油(Glycerin)、1,3-丁二醇(Butylene Glycol)、丙二醇(Propylene Glycol)、聚乙二醇(Polyethylene Glycol)、山梨糖醇(Sorbitol)、戊二醇(pentylene Glycol)、甲基丙二醇(Methylpropanediol)等,它们可以单独使用或两种以上混合使用。
以外相总重量为基准,可以包含所述多元醇0.5至40重量%,例如1至20重量%。
所述外相可以包含螯合剂、pH调节剂、溶剂、成膜剂、保湿剂、防腐稳定剂、皮肤调理剂和功能性化妆品主成分等。防腐剂可以使用1,2-己二醇、乙基己基甘油、羟基苯乙酮、辛酸甘油酯、辛乙二醇、苯氧乙醇等。螯合剂可以使用EDTA二钠、EDTA三钠、EDTA四钠等。pH调节剂可以使用氨丁三醇、三乙醇胺、咪唑烷基脲等。
本发明的多层乳液化妆品组合物可以但不限于为化妆水、精华液、霜剂、精华素、面膜液、安瓿或袋剂中的任一种剂型。
本发明的多层乳液化妆品组合物可以根据相应技术领域公知的多种方法制备。作为一例,可以以如下方法制备。
分别制备包含纯化水、水凝胶形成物质和盐的水凝胶相,及包含油、有机凝胶形成物质和根据需要的稳定剂的有机凝胶相。将所述制备的水凝胶相投入有机凝胶相并搅拌,制备W(水凝胶)/O(有机凝胶)乳化剂型。将上述制备的W/O乳化剂型投入于外相并搅拌可制备W/O/W多层乳化剂型。
具体实施例
下面通过实施例,更具体地描述本发明。但是,下述实施例只用于帮助理解本发明,无论在何种意义上,本发明的范围均不由实施例所限定。
[实施例1-3:中间相的制备]
根据下表1记载的组分制备各实施例的中间相后,以下述方法测量物质性质。
[比较例1-3:中间相的制备]
除下表1记载的组分之外,以与实施例1-3相同的方法制备了中间相并测量了物质性质。
O/W剂型的制备
制备由卡波姆0.2重量%、氨丁三醇0.2重量%、多元醇10重量%、1,2-己二醇1.5重量%、乙基己基甘油0.05重量%、余量的水(至100)构成的外相,将各实施例和比较例的中间相投入所述外相而制备了O/W剂型。排除内相的干预,为了确认外相存在状态下的中间相的稳定性,评价了O/W剂型内中间相的物质性质。
是否形成有机凝胶
通过肉眼或利用显微镜观察了在各实施例和比较例的O/W剂型内的中间相中是否形成有机凝胶。
有机凝胶颗粒形态
利用显微镜观察了各实施例和比较例的O/W剂型内有机凝胶的颗粒形态。
[评价基准]
○:颗粒界面为稳定的圆形形态
X:颗粒界面为不稳定的扭曲形态
硬度
使用FUDOH流变仪(FUDOH rheo meter)测量了各实施例和比较例的中间相的硬度(1㎜Φ、30㎝/mim、10㎜深度的条件)。
高温稳定度
将所述实施例和比较例制备的O/W剂型在40℃至60℃温度下放置一个月时间后,利用显微镜确认油是否渗出从而评价了高温稳定度。
[评价基准]
●:在全部温度区间完全不渗油
○:在60℃轻微渗油
X:在60℃以下渗油
【表1】
如上表1所示,本发明的实施例1-3的中间相形成了颗粒界面具有稳定的圆形形态的有机凝胶,表现出优异的硬度和高温稳定度。特别是还包含稳定剂的实施例1,其中间相形成了颗粒界面具有稳定的圆形形态的有机凝胶(图1)。高温稳定度表现得非常优异。
相反,比较例1包含不足本发明范围的量的有机凝胶形成物质,中间相的硬度表现得非常低,结果,在高温下无法维持颗粒而扭曲,最终发生了颗粒破碎现象,即,乳化崩解现象(图2)。比较例2包含超过本发明范围的量的有机凝胶形成物质,其中间相虽然形成了有机凝胶,但颗粒界面不稳定,形成扭曲形态。如比较例2所示,如果硬度过高,则对温度敏感,快速硬化,因而在制作多层乳液期间颗粒硬化而难以形成圆形形态,坚固而在皮肤上不破碎,难以涂覆,在高温下渗油现象增加。另一方面,比较例3不包含有机凝胶形成物质而只包含稳定剂,其中间相无法形成有机凝胶(图3)。
[实施例4-6:W/O剂型的制备]
根据下表2记载的组分制备各实施例的内相后,在实施例1制备的中间相(有机凝胶)中投入实施例4-6的内相(水凝胶),用均质混合器搅拌而制备了W(水凝胶)/O(有机凝胶)乳化剂型。针对制备的各实施例的W/O剂型,以如下方法测量了物质性质。
[比较例4-5:W/O剂型的制备]
除下表2记载的组分外,以与实施例4-6相同的方法制备了W/O剂型,并测量了物质性质。
是否形成水凝胶
通过肉眼或利用显微镜观察了在各实施例和比较例的W/O剂型内的内相中是否形成水凝胶。
水凝胶颗粒形态/颗粒均匀性
利用光学显微镜观察了各实施例和比较例的水凝胶颗粒形态和内相的颗粒在中间相中是否均匀分散。
【表2】
成分(重量%) | 实施例4 | 实施例5 | 实施例6 | 比较例4 | 比较例5 |
水 | 至100 | 至100 | 至100 | 至100 | 至100 |
水凝胶形成物质(Gellan Gum) | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
盐1(氯化钙) | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.2 | |
盐2(焦磷酸四钠) | 0.1 | 0.001 | 1 | 0.2 | |
是否形成水凝胶 | O | O | O | O | X |
水凝胶的颗粒形态 | 球形 | 球形 | 棒型 | 球形 | |
水凝胶颗粒大小均匀性 | 均匀 | 不均匀 | 均匀 | 不均匀 |
如上表2所示,本发明实施例4-6的W/O剂型中的内相形成了水凝胶(图4-6)。特别是含有磷酸盐0.1重量%的实施例4,其W/O剂型中的内相形成了颗粒大小均匀的球形的水凝胶(图4)。
相反,本发明的两种盐中只包含钙盐的比较例4,其W/O剂型中的内相虽然形成了水凝胶,但因立即凝胶化,无法均匀形成颗粒。另一方面,本发明的两种盐中只包含磷酸盐的比较例5,其W/O剂型中的内相无法形成水凝胶。因此,比较例4、5的W/O剂型无法用于多层乳液的制备。
[实施例7-9:多层乳液(W/O/W)的制备]
制备了由卡波姆0.2重量%、氨丁三醇0.2重量%、多元醇10重量%、1,2-己二醇1.5重量%、乙基己基甘油0.05重量%、余量的水(至100)构成的外相。在所制备的外相中投入实施例4-6的W/O乳化剂型,用AGI混合器搅拌而制备了实施例7-9的W/O/W多层乳液。
利用光学显微镜观察了各实施例的W/O/W多层乳液,结果,在实施例7-9的乳液中,中间相的颗粒均以包含内相的状态均匀分散于外相中(图7),由此确认形成了稳定的多层乳液。
【工业实用性】
本发明提供一种不含表面活性剂但水相与油相之间的界面膜稳定度高而表现出优异稳定性的多层乳液化妆品组合物。本发明的化妆品组合物不含表面活性剂,皮肤刺激小,环保,作为多层乳液剂型,涂抹性、铺展性、使用感优异且化妆持久性和耐水性也优异。另外,本发明的化妆品组合物由于多层乳液在结构特性方面中间相和内相不与空气接触,因而适合于将由油溶性和水溶性构成的有效成分作为一种剂型同时实现稳定化。
Claims (8)
1.一种多层乳液化妆品组合物,包括水凝胶层的内相、有机凝胶层的中间相和水层的外相,其中,
所述内相包含纯化水、水凝胶形成物质和盐,
所述盐包括碱金属盐和碱土金属盐中一种以上的盐及磷酸盐,
所述中间相包含油和有机凝胶形成物质,
以中间相总重量为基准,包含所述有机凝胶形成物质5重量%至40重量%。
2.根据权利要求1所述的多层乳液化妆品组合物,其中,
所述水凝胶形成物质为选自由结冷胶、琼脂、卡拉胶、海藻酸盐、果胶、明胶、黄原胶、角豆胶、瓜尔豆胶、淀粉、壳聚糖、纤维素和胶原构成的组中的一种以上。
3.根据权利要求1所述的多层乳液化妆品组合物,其中,
所述碱金属盐和碱土金属盐为选自由钙盐、铍盐、镁盐、锶盐、钡盐、镭盐、钾盐、钠盐和锂盐构成的组中的一种以上。
4.根据权利要求1所述的多层乳液化妆品组合物,其中,
所述有机凝胶形成物质为选自由N-月桂酰-L-谷氨酸、α,γ-二正丁胺、糊精棕榈酸酯、糊精硬脂酸酯、糊精棕榈酸酯/乙基己酸酯、糊精肉豆蔻酸酯、蔗糖棕榈酸酯、蔗糖硬脂酸酯、菊粉硬脂酸酯、低聚果糖2-乙基己酸酯、单亚苄基山梨醇、二亚苄基山梨醇、聚氨酯-79、聚乙烯、甘油山嵛酸酯、甘油山嵛酸酯/二十酸酯、硬脂酰菊粉、三羟基硬脂精、聚丁烯、聚酰胺-2、聚酰胺-3、聚酰胺-5、聚酰胺-8、氢化植物油和异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯共聚物构成的组中的一种以上。
5.根据权利要求1所述的多层乳液化妆品组合物,其中,
以内相总重量为基准,包含所述水凝胶形成物质0.05重量%至10重量%、所述碱金属盐和碱土金属盐中一种以上的盐0.005重量%至0.5重量%、及所述磷酸盐0.0025重量%至0.25重量%。
6.根据权利要求1所述的多层乳液化妆品组合物,其中,
以中间相总重量为基准,还包含稳定剂5重量%至40重量%。
7.根据权利要求1所述的多层乳液化妆品组合物,其中,
以外相总重量为基准,还包含水溶性增稠剂0.05重量%至10重量%。
8.根据权利要求1所述的多层乳液化妆品组合物,其中,
所述中间相的有机凝胶的硬度为5Dyne/cm2至60Dyne/cm2。
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