CN116507317A - 用于角蛋白材料的护理和/或化妆的无水组合物 - Google Patents
用于角蛋白材料的护理和/或化妆的无水组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN116507317A CN116507317A CN202080106753.4A CN202080106753A CN116507317A CN 116507317 A CN116507317 A CN 116507317A CN 202080106753 A CN202080106753 A CN 202080106753A CN 116507317 A CN116507317 A CN 116507317A
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- red
- silicone oil
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- phenyl silicone
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- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 claims abstract description 61
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Abstract
本发明涉及用于角蛋白材料的护理和/或化妆的无水组合物,其包含a)至少一种对应于下式(I)的任选具有聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的非挥发苯基硅油:其中基团R互相独立地代表甲基或苯基,条件是至少一个基团R代表苯基;b)至少一种对应于下式(II)的任选具有至少一个聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的非挥发苯基硅油:其中Me是甲基且Ph是苯基,OR′代表基团‑OSiMe3,p为0或在1至1000之间,m在1至1000之间;和c)至少一种选自纤维素醚的成膜聚合物;其中对应于式(I)的非挥发苯基硅油与对应于式(II)的非挥发苯基硅油的重量比为0.5至1。本发明还涉及用于角蛋白材料如皮肤和嘴唇的护理和/或化妆的方法,其包括将根据本发明的无水组合物施加于角蛋白材料。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及用于角蛋白材料如皮肤和嘴唇,优选嘴唇的护理和/或化妆的无水组合物。本发明还涉及用于角蛋白材料如皮肤和嘴唇,优选嘴唇的护理和/或化妆的方法。
背景技术
为满足皮肤和嘴唇的保湿或水润需求而生产用于皮肤和/或嘴唇的护理和/或化妆的组合物。
许多唇膏在施加后会迁移,即在嘴唇的小细纹处具有羽化(featherings)。
迄今,已经公开了涉及用于皮肤和/或嘴唇的化妆和/或护理的化妆品组合物的一些现有技术文献。
WO 2013/191300公开了用于皮肤和/或嘴唇的化妆和/或护理的固体化妆品组合物,其在生理可接受的介质中包含至少一个脂肪相,所述脂肪相包含:
-相对于组合物的总重量计5至30重量%的(a)非挥发烃化(hydrocarbonated)非极性油或其混合物,
-相对于组合物的总重量计43至90重量%的(a)一种或多种非挥发硅油的总含量,其中所述一种或多种非挥发硅油的至少一种是非挥发苯基化硅油,和
-相对于组合物的总重量计3至30重量%的(a)一种或多种蜡或其混合物。
WO 2012/165130公开了用于嘴唇的化妆品,其特征在于包含:(a)5至30质量%的氢化聚异丁烯;(b)30至70质量%的一种或多种类型的甲基苯基硅酮,其在25℃下与(a)混合时分离;(c)0.5至15质量%的油,其在25℃下与(a)混合;和在25℃下与(b)混合时分离;和(d)4至12质量%的蜡。
一般而言,当女性使用彩妆产品,尤其是唇部产品,如唇膏或唇彩时,她们希望唇部产品稳定并具有良好施加性质,如滑动性,并在嘴唇上留下具有良好光泽度的沉积物。希望产品在施加后不容易迁移。
因此,仍然需要获得用于角蛋白材料如皮肤和嘴唇的护理和/或化妆的产品,其稳定并具有良好滑动性并在角蛋白材料,如皮肤和嘴唇上留下具有良好抗迁移性的光泽沉积物。
发明概述
本发明的一个目的因此是提供用于角蛋白材料如皮肤和嘴唇的护理和/或化妆的产品,其稳定并具有良好滑动性并在角蛋白材料,如皮肤和嘴唇上留下具有良好抗迁移性的光泽沉积物。
本发明的另一目的是提供用于角蛋白材料如皮肤和嘴唇,优选嘴唇的护理和/或化妆的方法。
因此,根据一个方面,本发明提供用于角蛋白材料的护理和/或化妆的无水组合物,其包含:
a)至少一种对应于下式(I)的任选具有聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的非挥发苯基硅油:
其中基团R互相独立地代表甲基或苯基,条件是至少一个基团R代表苯基;
b)至少一种对应于下式(II)的任选具有至少一个聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的非挥发苯基硅油:
其中Me是甲基且Ph是苯基,OR′代表基团-OSiMe3,p为0或在1至1000之间,m在1至1000之间;和
c)至少一种选自纤维素醚的成膜聚合物;
其中对应于式(I)的非挥发苯基硅油与对应于式(II)的非挥发苯基硅油的重量比为0.5至1。
根据另一个方面,本发明提供用于角蛋白材料如皮肤和嘴唇的护理和/或化妆的方法,其包括将如上所述的无水组合物施加于角蛋白材料。
已经令人惊讶地发现,所得无水组合物具有良好滑动性并在角蛋白材料,如皮肤和嘴唇上留下具有良好抗迁移性的光泽沉积物。
此外,根据本发明的无水组合物是稳定的,即其在20℃、37℃和45℃下保持2个月后没有损失(lapse)。
发明详述
如本文所用,除非另行指明,数值范围的界限包括在这一范围内,特别是在表述“在…和…之间”和“…至…”中。
本文所用的术语“包含”应解释为涵盖所有具体提到的特征以及任选的、附加的、未指定的特征。
如本文所用,术语“包含”的使用也公开了不存在具体提到的特征以外的特征的实施方案(即“由…组成”)。
除非另行定义,本文使用的所有技术和科学术语具有本发明所属领域的技术人员通常理解的相同含义。当本说明书中的术语的定义与本发明所属领域的技术人员通常理解的含义冲突时,应采用本文所述的定义。
除非另行规定,说明书和权利要求书中使用的表示成分的量等的所有数值应被理解为被术语“大约”修饰。因此,除非作出相反的指示,本文所述的数值和参数是近似值,其能够根据需要获得的所需性能进行更改。
对本发明而言,术语“无水”是指根据本发明的组合物含有相对于组合物的总重量计少于2重量%,优选少于0.5重量%的水。如果适当,如此少量的水可能由含有残余量的水的该组合物的成分提供,但不是有意提供。
本文所用的术语“角蛋白材料”是指皮肤和嘴唇。“皮肤”意指全身皮肤,包括头皮。角蛋白材料优选是嘴唇。
根据本发明的用于角蛋白材料的护理和/或化妆的无水组合物包含:
a)至少一种对应于下式(I)的任选具有聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的非挥发苯基硅油:
其中基团R互相独立地代表甲基或苯基,条件是至少一个基团R代表苯基;
b)至少一种对应于下式(II)的任选具有至少一个聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的非挥发苯基硅油:
其中Me是甲基且Ph是苯基,OR′代表基团-OSiMe3,p为0或在1至1000之间,m在1至1000之间;和
c)至少一种选自纤维素醚的成膜聚合物;
其中对应于式(I)的非挥发苯基硅油与对应于式(II)的非挥发苯基硅油的重量比为0.5至1。
在一些实施方案中,根据本发明的无水组合物是固体。
本文所用的术语“固体”是指当根据下述程序测量时该组合物在20℃和大气压(760mmHg)下的硬度大于或等于30Nm-1。
要测定其硬度的组合物在测量硬度前在20℃下储存24小时。
可通过“干酪金属丝(cheese wire)”法在20℃下测量硬度,其包括借助直径250μm的硬钨丝,通过使丝以100毫米/分钟的速度相对于产品棒移动而横向切割该棒,其优选为圆柱体。
使用来自Indelco-Chatillon公司的DFGS2张力试验机测量以Nm-1表示的本发明的组合物的样品的硬度。
该测量重复三次,然后取平均值。使用上述张力试验机读取的三个剪切值的平均值(标作Y)以克为单位给出。将这一平均值换算成牛顿,然后除以L,L代表丝经过的最长距离。在圆柱棒的情况下,L等于直径(以米计)。
通过以下方程将硬度换算成Nm-1:
(Y×10-3×9.8)/L
为了在不同温度下测量,该组合物在测量前在这种新温度下储存24小时。
根据这种测量方法,根据本发明的组合物优选具有大于或等于40Nm-1,优选大于55Nm-1的在20℃和大气压下的硬度。
优选地,根据本发明的组合物尤其具有小于200Nm-1,尤其小于150Nm-1和优选小于100Nm-1的在20℃下的硬度。
有利地,该组合物具有50至90gF,优选65至80gF的剪切值。因此,该组合物可配制在标准包装中,不需要任何组合物支撑手段(support means)。
一种或多种非挥发苯基硅油
根据一个方面,根据本发明的组合物包含至少一种对应于式(I)的非挥发苯基硅油和至少一种对应于式(II)的第二非挥发苯基硅油。
术语“油”是指在室温(25℃)和大气压(760mmHg)下是液体的水不混溶的非水性化合物。
术语“非挥发”是指在25℃和大气压下,其蒸气压不为零并小于0.02mmHg(2.66Pa),更好地小于10-3mmHg(0.13Pa)的油。
术语“硅油”是指含有至少一个硅原子,特别是含有Si-Q基团的油。
表述“苯基硅油”是指带有至少一个苯基取代基的硅油。
这些非挥发苯基硅油可选自具有至少一个聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的那些,或没有聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的那些
根据本发明,聚二甲基硅氧烷片段对应于以下单元:
-Si(CH3)2-O-。
对应于式(I)的任选具有聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的非挥发苯基硅油:
其中基团R互相独立地代表甲基或苯基,条件是至少一个基团R代表苯基。
优选地,式(I)的苯基硅油包含至少三个、至少四个或至少五个苯基。
可以使用上述不同苯基有机聚硅氧烷化合物的混合物。
可提到的实例包括三苯基-、四苯基-或五苯基-有机聚硅氧烷的混合物。
在式(I)的化合物中,可以更特别提到对应于式(I)的不具有任何聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的苯基硅油,其中至少4个或至少5个基团R代表苯基,其余基团代表甲基。
这样的非挥发苯基硅油优选是三甲基五苯基三硅氧烷或四甲基四苯基三硅氧烷。它们特别由Dow Corning以PH-1555HRI或Dow555Cosmetic Fluid(化学名称:1,3,5-三甲基-1,1,3,5,5-五苯基三硅氧烷;INCI名称:三甲基五苯基三硅氧烷)为名出售,或也可以使用Dow Corning以Dow Corning 554Cosmetic Fluid为名出售的四甲基四苯基三硅氧烷。
它们特别对应于下式(Ia)和(Ib):
其中Me代表甲基,且Ph代表苯基。
根据一些实施方案,式(I)的非挥发苯基硅油选自三甲基五苯基三硅氧烷和四甲基四苯基三硅氧烷。
优选地,式(I)的非挥发苯基硅油以相对于组合物的总重量计1重量%至30重量%,优选2重量%至20重量%,更优选5重量%至12重量%的量存在。
对应于式(II)的任选具有至少一个聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的非挥发苯基硅油:
其中Me是甲基且Ph是苯基,OR′代表基团-OSiMe3,p为0或在1至1000之间,m在1至1000之间。特别地,m和p使得式(II)的苯基硅油是非挥发油。
根据一个实施方案,式(II)的非挥发苯基硅油具有至少一个聚二甲基硅氧烷片段,p在1至1000之间,且m更特别使得化合物(II)是非挥发油。可以例如使用特别由Wacker公司以Belsil PDM 1000为名出售的三甲基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷。
根据一个实施方案,式(II)的非挥发苯基硅油不具有聚二甲基硅氧烷片段,p等于0,且m在1至1000之间,m特别使得化合物(II)是非挥发油。
可以例如使用特别以Dow556Cosmetic Grade Fluid(DC556)为名出售的苯基三甲基甲硅烷氧基三硅氧烷。
根据一些实施方案,式(II)的非挥发苯基硅油选自苯基三甲基甲硅烷氧基三硅氧烷和三甲基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷。
优选地,式(II)的非挥发苯基硅油以相对于组合物的总重量计2重量%至40重量%,优选6重量%至30重量%,更优选10重量%至24重量%的量存在。
纤维素醚
根据一个方面,根据本发明的组合物包含至少一种选自纤维素醚的成膜聚合物。
纤维素醚的非限制性实例包括甲基纤维素、乙基纤维素、丙基纤维素、甲基乙基纤维素、羧甲基纤维素(纤维素胶)、乙基羧甲基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、羧甲基羟乙基纤维素、甲基羟乙基纤维素、羟丙基甲基纤维素、乙基羟乙基纤维素、甲基乙基羟乙基纤维素及其混合物。
在一些优选实施方案中,所述至少一种成膜聚合物选自甲基纤维素、乙基纤维素、丙基纤维素和甲基乙基纤维素。
作为纤维素醚的商业实例,可以提到可获自ASHLAND公司的AQUALONTM EC N7PHARM(乙基纤维素)。
优选地,成膜聚合物以相对于组合物的总重量计0.5重量%至10重量%,优选1重量%至8重量%,更优选2重量%至6重量%的量存在。
附加油
根据本发明的无水组合物可进一步包含除上述非挥发苯基硅油外的一种或多种附加油。
附加油可以是非挥发油和/或挥发油。
术语“挥发油”是指在室温和大气压下,在与皮肤或嘴唇接触时能在不到1小时内蒸发的任何非水性介质。更具体地,挥发油具有在0.01至200mg/cm2/min之间的蒸发速率,包括界限。
该油可以是硅油、氟油、基于烃的油或其混合物。
术语“氟油”是指包含至少一个氟原子的油。
该油可任选包含氧、氮、硫和/或磷原子,例如以羟基或酸基的形式。
硅油和氟油可选自极性油、非极性油或其混合物。
用作附加油的“基于烃的油”可以是极性油。
对本发明而言,术语“极性油”是指其在25℃下的溶解度参数δa不是0(J/cm3)1/2的油。
根据一个优选实施方案,根据本发明的组合物包含选自辛基十二烷醇、庚酸硬脂醇酯、辛酸硬脂醇酯、异十六烷、苯甲酸C12-15烷基酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷及其混合物的至少一种附加油。
当存在时,一种或多种附加油以相对于组合物的总重量计30重量%至70重量%,优选40重量%至65重量%的量存在于根据本发明的组合物中。
有利地,所有油的总量以相对于组合物的总重量计50重量%至80重量%,优选60重量%至75重量%存在于本发明的组合物中。
根据本发明的无水组合物可进一步包含至少一种蜡和/或至少一种着色剂。
一种或多种蜡
在本发明中考虑的蜡通常是在室温(25℃)下是固体、具有固/液可逆状态变化、具有大于或等于30℃,优选大于或等于40℃、可能高达200℃,特别高达120℃的熔点的亲脂化合物。
用于本发明的蜡包括动物来源的蜡、植物来源的蜡、矿物来源的蜡、合成蜡以及天然来源的蜡的各种级分。
动物蜡包括但不限于蜂蜡、鲸蜡、羊毛脂蜡、羊毛脂衍生物和中国虫蜡。植物蜡包括但不限于米蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、小烛树蜡、小冠椰子蜡、软木纤维蜡、甘蔗蜡、可可脂、日本蜡和漆树蜡(sumac wax)。矿物蜡包括但不限于褐煤蜡、微晶蜡、石蜡、地蜡、矿脂和纯地蜡(ceresine)。合成蜡包括但不限于聚乙烯均聚物和共聚物蜡、合成蜂蜡、通过费托合成获得的蜡和硅蜡。
也使用通过具有直链或支链C8-C32脂肪链的动物或植物油的催化氢化获得的蜡,以及脂肪酯和甘油酯。
蜡还包括硅酮蜡,其中可以提到聚甲基硅氧烷烷基化物(alkyls)、烷氧基化物(alkoxys)和/或酯。该蜡可以是胶体蜡粒子的稳定分散体形式,根据已知方法,如"Microemulsions Theory and Practice",L.M.Prince编辑,Academic Press(1977),第21-32页。也可以使用褐煤蜡(Lignate wax)。
根据本发明的组合物中可用的蜡可以提供以下性质的一种或多种,包括但不限于,增量(bulking)、质地和一定程度的抗水性。蜡不应该显著降低光泽成膜剂(如果存在)的光泽性质。
根据一个特别优选的实施方案,用于本发明的蜡选自合成蜡、石蜡、微晶蜡、聚乙烯、VP/二十碳烯共聚物及其混合物。
如果存在,蜡可以相对于组合物的总重量计5重量%至30重量%,优选7重量%至20重量%,更优选8重量%至15重量%的量存在。
一种或多种着色剂
对本发明而言,术语“着色剂”是指在足量配制在合适的化妆品介质中时能够产生有色光学效应的化合物。
在本发明中考虑的着色剂可选自水溶性或水不溶性、脂溶性或非脂溶性、有机或无机着色剂,和具有光学效应的材料,及其混合物。
水溶性染料
根据本发明使用的水溶性着色剂更特别是水溶性染料。
对本发明而言,术语“水溶性染料”是指可溶于水相或水混溶性溶剂并能够提供颜色的任何天然或合成的通常有机化合物。特别地,术语“水溶性”旨在表征在25℃下测得的化合物溶解在水中至至少等于0.1g/l的浓度的能力(产生宏观各向同性、透明、有色或无色的溶液)。这种溶解度特别大于或等于1g/l。
作为适用于本发明的水溶性染料,可以特别提到合成或天然水溶性染料,例如FD&C Red 4(CI:14700)、DC Red 6(Lithol Rubine Na;CI:15850)、DC Red 22(CI:45380)、DCRed 28(CI:45410Na盐)、DC Red 30(CI:73360)、DC Red 33(CI:17200)、DC Orange 4(CI:15510)、FDC Yellow 5(CI:19140)、FDC Yellow 6(CI:15985)、DC Yellow 8(CI:45350Na盐)、FDC Green 3(CI:42053)、DC Green 5(CI:61570)、FDC Blue 1(CI:42090)。
作为可用于本发明的一种或多种水溶性着色剂的来源的非限制性实例,可以特别提到天然来源的那些,如胭脂虫、甜菜根、葡萄、胡萝卜、番茄、胭脂树、辣椒、指甲花、焦糖和姜黄的提取物。
因此,适用于本发明的水溶性着色剂特别是胭脂红酸、甜菜苷、花色素、花色素苷(enocyanins)、番茄红素、β-胡萝卜素、胭脂素、降胭脂树素、辣椒红素(capsanthin)、辣椒玉红素(capsorubin)、毛莨黄素、叶黄素、隐黄素、玉红黄质、堇黄质、核黄素、紫杉紫素、鸡油菌素(cantaxanthin)和叶绿素及其混合物。
它们也可以是硫酸铜、硫酸铁、水溶性磺基聚酯、若丹明、甜菜碱、亚甲蓝、酒石黄的二钠盐和品红的二钠盐。
这些水溶性着色剂中的一些特别被批准食品使用。可提到的这些染料的代表更特别包括以食品代码E120、E162、E163、E160a-g、E150a、E101、E100、E140和E141指代的类胡萝卜素家族的染料。
颜料
术语“颜料”应被理解为是指不溶于液体有机相并旨在使该组合物和/或用该组合物产生的沉积物着色和/或不透明的白色或有色、无机(矿物)或有机粒子。
颜料可选自矿物颜料、有机颜料和复合颜料(即基于矿物和/或有机材料的颜料)。
颜料可选自单色颜料、色淀和具有光学效应的颜料,例如视角闪色(goniochromatic)颜料和珍珠质。
矿物颜料可选自金属氧化物颜料,如氧化铬、氧化铁(黑色、黄色、红色)、二氧化钛、氧化锌、氧化铈和氧化锆,铬水合物、锰紫、普鲁士蓝、群青蓝、铁蓝、合成氟金云母(SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE)、金属粉末如铝粉和铜粉,及其混合物。
有机色淀是由附着于基底的染料形成的有机颜料。
也被称为有机颜料的色淀可选自下列材料及其混合物:
-胭脂虫红;
-偶氮染料、蒽醌染料、靛类染料、呫吨染料、芘染料、喹啉染料、三苯甲烷染料或荧烷染料的有机颜料。
特别可提到的有机颜料包括以下列名称为人所知的那些:D&C Blue No.4、D&CBrown No.1、D&C Green No.5、D&C Green No.6、D&C Orange No.4、D&C Orange No.5、D&COrange No.10、D&C Orange No.11、D&C Red No.6、D&C Red No.7、D&C Red No.17、D&C RedNo.21、D&C Red No.22、D&C Red No.27、D&C Red No.28、D&C Red No.30、D&C Red No.31、D&C Red No.33、D&C Red No.34、D&C Red No.36、D&C Violet No.2、D&C Yellow No.7、D&CYellow No.8、D&C Yellow No.10、D&C Yellow No.11、FD&C Blue No.1、FD&C Green No.3、FD&C Red No.40、FD&C Yellow No.5、FD&C Yellow No.6;
-有机色淀可以是酸性染料如偶氮、蒽醌、靛类、呫吨、芘、喹啉、三苯甲烷或荧烷染料的不可溶的钠、钾、钙、钡、铝、锆、锶或钛盐,这些染料可能包含至少一个羧酸或磺酸基团。
有机色淀也可负载在有机载体,例如松香或苯甲酸铝上。
在有机色淀中,特别可提到以下列名称为人所知的那些:D&C Red No.2铝色淀、D&C Red No.3铝色淀、D&C Red No.4铝色淀、D&C Red No.6铝色淀、D&C Red No.6钡色淀、D&CRed No.6钡/锶色淀、D&C Red No.6锶色淀、D&C Red No.6钾色淀、D&C Red No.7铝色淀、D&C Red No.7钡色淀、D&C Red No.7钙色淀、D&C Red No.7钙/锶色淀、D&C Red No.7锆色淀、D&C Red No.8钠色淀、D&C Red No.9铝色淀、D&C Red No.9钡色淀、D&C Red No.9钡/锶色淀、D&C Red No.9锆色淀、D&C Red No.10钠色淀、D&C Red No.19铝色淀、D&C Red No.19钡色淀、D&C Red No.19锆色淀、D&C Red No.21铝色淀、D&C Red No.21锆色淀、D&C RedNo.22铝色淀、D&C Red No.27铝色淀、D&C Red No.27铝/钛/锆色淀、D&C Red No.27钡色淀、D&C Red No.27钙色淀、D&C Red No.27锆色淀、D&C Red No.28铝色淀、D&C Red No.30色淀、D&C Red No.31钙色淀、D&C Red No.33铝色淀、D&C Red No.34钙色淀、D&C RedNo.36色淀、D&C Red No.40铝色淀、D&C Blue No.1铝色淀、D&C Green No.3铝色淀、D&COrange No.4铝色淀、D&COrange No.5铝色淀、D&C Orange No.5锆色淀、D&C Orange No.10铝色淀、D&C Orange No.17钡色淀、D&C Yellow No.5铝色淀、D&CYellow No.5锆色淀、D&CYellow No.6铝色淀、D&C Yellow No.7锆色淀、D&C Yellow No.10铝色淀、FD&C Blue No.1铝色淀、FD&C Red No.4铝色淀、FD&C Red No.40铝色淀、FD&C Yellow No.5铝色淀和FD&CYellow No.6铝色淀。
也可提到脂溶性染料,例如苏丹红、DC Red 17、DC Green 6、β-胡萝卜素、大豆油、Sudan Brown、DC Yellow 11、DC Violet 2、DC Orange 5和喹啉黄。
在出版物″International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook",1997版,第371至386和524至528页,″The Cosmetic、Toiletries and FragranceAssociation″出版(其内容经此引用并入本专利申请)中提到与上文引用的各有机着色剂对应的化学物质。
颜料也可能已经过疏水处理。
疏水处理剂可选自硅酮,如聚甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、烷氧基硅烷和全氟烷基硅烷;脂肪酸,如硬脂酸;金属皂,如二肉豆蔻酸铝、氢化牛脂谷氨酸的铝盐、全氟烷基磷酸盐、全氟烷基硅烷、全氟烷基硅氮烷、聚六氟环氧丙烷、包含全氟烷基全氟聚醚基团的聚有机硅氧烷和氨基酸;N-酰基氨基酸或其盐;卵磷脂、三异硬脂基钛酸异丙酯及其混合物。
N-酰基氨基酸可包含含有8至22个碳原子的酰基,例如2-乙基己酰基、己酰基、月桂酰基、肉豆蔻酰基、棕榈酰基、硬脂酰基或椰油酰基。这些化合物的盐可以是铝、镁、钙、锆、锌、钠或钾盐。氨基酸可以是例如赖氨酸、谷氨酸或丙氨酸。
上述化合物中提到的术语“烷基”特别是指含有1至30个碳原子,优选含有5至16个碳原子的烷基。
疏水处理的颜料特别描述在专利申请EP-A-1 086 683中。
珍珠质
对本专利申请而言,术语“珍珠质”是指任何形状的有色粒子,其可以是或不是虹彩的,特别由某些软体动物在它们的壳中产生,或是合成的,并经由光学干涉产生色彩效果。
可提到的珍珠质的实例包括珠光颜料,如氧化铁涂布的钛云母、氯氧化铋涂布的云母、氧化铬涂布的钛云母、特别为上述类型的有机染料涂布的钛云母以及基于氯氧化铋的珠光颜料。
它们也可以是在其表面叠加了金属氧化物和/或有机着色剂的至少两个相继层的云母粒子。
珍珠质更特别可具有黄色、粉色、红色、青铜色、橙色、棕色、金色和/或铜色的颜色或色调。
作为可作为干涉颜料引入第一组合物中的珍珠质的实例,可提到特别由BASF公司以Brilliant gold 212G(Timica)、Gold 222C(Cloisonne)、Sparkle gold(Timica)和Monarch gold 233X(Cloisonne)为名出售的金色珍珠质;特别由Merck公司以Bronze fine(17384)(Colorona)和Bronze(17353)(Colorona)为名和由BASF公司以Super bronze(Cloisonne)为名出售的青铜色珍珠质;特别由BASF公司以Orange 363C(Cloisonne)为名和由Merck公司以Passion orange(Colorona)和Matte orange(17449)(Microna)为名出售的橙色珍珠质;特别由Engelhard公司以Nu-antique copper 340XB(Cloisonne)和BrownCL4509(Chroma-lite)为名出售的棕色调珍珠质;特别由BASF公司以Copper 340A(Timica)为名出售的铜色调珍珠质;特别由Merck公司以Sienna fine(17386)(Colorona)为名出售的红色调珍珠质;特别由BASF公司以Yellow(4502)(Chromalite)为名出售的黄色调珍珠质;特别由BASF公司以Sunstone G012(Gemtone)为名出售的金色调的红色珍珠质;特别由BASF公司以Tan opale G005(Gemtone)为名出售的粉色珍珠质;特别由BASF公司以Nuantique bronze 240AB(Timica)为名出售的金色调的黑色珍珠质、特别由Merck公司以Matte blue(17433)(Microna)为名出售的蓝色珍珠质、特别由Merck公司以Xirona Silvet为名出售的银色调的白色珍珠质、和特别由Merck公司以Indian summer(Xirona)为名出售的金绿粉橙色珍珠质及其混合物。
视角闪色颜料
对本发明而言,术语“视角闪色颜料”是指在该组合物涂铺到载体上时可以在CIE1976比色空间的圹b*面中获得如下颜色轨迹的颜料:在45°的光入射角下,在相对于法线的观察角在0°至80°之间变化时,色调角h°的变化Dh°为至少20°。
在使用自动涂铺器将组合物以流体形式涂铺到Erichsen品牌的标号Typ 24/5的对比卡(contrast card)上至300μm的厚度之后,可以例如使用Instrument Systems品牌的标号GON 360Goniometer的光谱测角反射仪(spectrogonioreflectometer)测量颜色轨迹,该测量在该卡片的黑色背景上进行。
视角闪色颜料可以选自例如多层干涉结构和液晶着色剂。
在多层结构的情况下,其可包含例如至少两个层,各层例如由选自以下材料的至少一种材料制成:MgF2、CeF3、ZnS、ZnSe、Si、SiO2、Ge、Te、Fe2O3、Pt、Va、Al2O3、MgO、Y2O3、S2O3、SiO、HfO2、ZrO2、CeO2、Nb2O5、Ta2O5、TiO2、Ag、Al、Au、Cu、Rb、丁i、Ta、W、Zn、MoS2、冰晶石、合金、聚合物及其组合。
就堆叠层的化学性质而言,该多层结构可以相对于中心层具有或不具有对称性。
根据各种层的厚度和性质获得不同效果。
对称的多层干涉结构的实例是例如以下结构:Fe2O3/SiO2/Fe2O3/SiO2/Fe2O3,具有这种结构的颜料由BASF公司以Sicopearl为名出售;MoS2/SiO2/云母-氧化物/SiO2/MoS2;Fe2O3/SiO2/云母-氧化物/SiO2/Fe2O3;TiO2/SiO2/TiO2和TiO2/Al2O3/TiO2,具有这些结构的颜料由Merck公司以Xirona为名出售。
液晶着色剂包含例如其上接枝有介晶基团的硅酮或纤维素醚。可用的液晶视角闪色粒子的实例包括例如Chenix公司出售的那些,以及Wacker公司以HC为名出售的那些。
也可用的视角闪色颜料包括某些珍珠质、在合成基底,特别是如氧化铝、二氧化硅、硼硅酸盐、氧化铁或铝之类的基底上的效果颜料,或获自聚对苯二甲酸酯膜的干涉薄片(interference flakes)。
作为视角闪色颜料的非限制性实例,特别可以提到,单独地或混合地,SunChemicals出售的视角闪色颜料、来自Toyo Aluminium K.K.的Cosmicolor来自Merck的/>和来自BASF的Reflecks/>
任选地,这些粒子可包含或覆盖有一种或多种荧光增白剂(或有机白色荧光物质)。
荧光增白剂是本领域技术人员公知的化合物。这些化合物描述在″FluorescentWhitening Agent,Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology,Kirk-Othmer",第11卷,第227-241页,第4版,1994年,Wiley中。
它们在化妆品中的使用特别利用了它们由具有荧光性质的化学化合物组成的事实,这些化合物在紫外区吸收(最大吸收位于小于400nm的波长)并通过波长在380nm至830nm之间的荧光重新发射能量。它们可以更特别地被定义为基本在300至390nm之间的UVA区吸收并基本在400至525nm之间重新发射的化合物。它们的增亮效果更特别基于在400至480nm之间的能量发射,这对应于在可见区的蓝光部分中的发射,当这种发射发生在皮肤上时,这有助于在视觉上增亮皮肤。
特别已知的荧光增白剂包括茋衍生物,特别是聚苯乙烯基芪和三嗪基芪,香豆素衍生物,特别是羟基香豆素和氨基香豆素,噁唑、苯并噁唑、咪唑、三唑和吡唑啉衍生物、芘衍生物、卟啉衍生物及其混合物。
可使用的荧光增白剂也可以是共聚物的形式,例如丙烯酸酯和/或甲基丙烯酸酯的共聚物,其如申请FR 99 10942中所述接枝有荧光增白剂基团。
根据一个优选实施方案,用于本发明的着色剂选自金属氧化物颜料、有机色淀、合成或天然水溶性染料及其混合物。
根据一个特别优选的实施方案,用于本发明的着色剂选自YELLOW 5LAKE、Blue1lake、RED 22LAKE、RED 21、RED 7、二氧化钛、氧化铁、合成氟金云母及其混合物。
如果存在,着色剂可以以相对于组合物的总重量计3重量%至20重量%,优选3重量%至15重量%,更优选5重量%至12重量%的量存在。
添加剂
根据本发明的无水组合物可进一步包含至少一种通常用于所涉领域的添加剂。特别地,添加剂选自阴离子、阳离子、两性或非离子表面活性剂、增稠剂、填料(如甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物)、抗氧化剂、保鲜剂(preserving agents)、香料、中和剂、防腐剂(antiseptics)、附加化妆品活性剂,如维生素、保湿剂、润肤剂或胶原保护剂及其混合物。
调节根据本发明的组合物中存在的添加剂的性质和量以使所考虑的添加不会或基本不会不利地影响根据本发明使用的组合物的有利性质对本领域技术人员而言是常规操作事项。
根据一个优选实施方案,本发明提供用于角蛋白材料的护理和/或化妆的无水组合物,相对于组合物的总重量计,其包含:
a)5重量%至12重量%的三甲基五苯基三硅氧烷;
b)10重量%至24重量%的三甲基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷;
c)2重量%至6重量%的乙基纤维素;和
d)8重量%至15重量%的选自合成蜡、石蜡、微晶蜡、聚乙烯、VP/二十碳烯共聚物及其混合物的至少一种蜡;
e)5重量%至12重量%的选自YELLOW 5LAKE、BLUE 1lake、RED 22LAKE、RED 21、RED 7、二氧化钛、氧化铁、合成氟金云母及其混合物的至少一种着色剂;和
f)60重量%至75重量%的选自辛基十二烷醇、庚酸硬脂醇酯、辛酸硬脂醇酯、异十六烷、苯甲酸C12-15烷基酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷及其混合物的至少一种附加油。
盖仑剂型(Galenic form)
本发明的组合物适合用作皮肤护理或彩妆产品。更特别地,本发明的组合物是唇膏等形式。
根据本发明的组合物可以常规方式制备。
本发明还提供用于角蛋白材料如皮肤和嘴唇的护理/化妆的方法,其包括将如上所述的无水组合物施加于角蛋白材料。
以下实施例作为本发明的非限制性示例给出。百分比为重量百分比。
实施例
实施例1
用表1中所列的成分制备根据本发明的配方(IE.)1和对比配方(CE.)1-3的唇膏(除非另行指明,含量表示为活性材料相对于各唇膏总重量的重量百分比):
表1
/>
制备程序:
通过以下步骤制备唇膏:
i)用三辊磨机将所有着色剂(色淀、染料、二氧化钛和氧化铁)研磨成颜料浆;
ii)将颜料浆和除乙基纤维素、聚二甲基硅氧烷、三甲基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷和三甲基五苯基三硅氧烷以外的所有其它成分在105℃下混合直至均匀,用VMI型均质机以300rpm搅拌该混合物;
iii)然后将乙基纤维素一点一点地引入该混合物并用VMI型均质机以500rpm搅拌,直至乙基纤维素完全溶解;
iv)引入其余成分并混合;
v)将均化的混合物倒入预热至42±2℃的唇膏模具,将混合物在25℃下留在模具中直至固化;和
vi)将固体混合物从冷却至大约4℃的唇膏模具中脱模。
评估:
进行关于唇膏的剪切值、硬度和稳定性,以及使用效果,如滑动性和施加后的沉积物的光泽度的评估。
根据先前描述的程序评估剪切值和硬度。
由5位专家通过以下步骤评估稳定性:
i)将唇膏放置在20℃、37℃和45℃的烘箱中;和
ii)在2个月后检查唇膏的外观。
使用滑动性评估唇膏在嘴唇上施加的过程中是否可以容易和平顺地滑动。
由5位专家如下评估滑动性:使用相同的力在上唇向两侧缓慢施加唇膏两次和在下唇施加两次,同时在第二次施加的过程中仔细感受唇膏与嘴唇皮肤之间的力。摩擦力越弱,滑动性越高。
由5位专家通过使用相同的力在上唇向两侧施加唇膏两次和在下唇施加两次来评估光泽度和抗迁移性。迁移意味着产品在嘴唇的小细纹处具有羽化。迁移越少越好。
最后,由专家给出关于稳定性、滑动性、光泽度和抗迁移性的评论或分数。
5:极好;
4:基本是好的;
3:可接受;
2:略差和不可接受;
1:差,不可接受。
各唇膏的评估结果概括在下表2中。
表2
性质 | Inv.1 | Comp.1 | Comp.2 | Comp.3 |
剪切值(gF) | 75 | 80 | 62 | 48 |
硬度(Nm-1)* | 64 | 68 | 53 | 41 |
稳定性 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 3 |
光泽度 | 4.5 | 5 | 2 | 4 |
抗迁移性 | 4.5 | 2 | 5 | 1 |
滑动性 | 5 | 5 | 2 | 5 |
观察到Inv.1的唇膏稳定并具有所需剪切值和硬度,以及使用效果,如滑动性,并在角蛋白材料上留下具有良好抗迁移性的光泽沉积物。
Claims (14)
1.用于角蛋白材料的护理和/或化妆的无水组合物,其包含:
a)至少一种对应于下式(I)的任选具有聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的非挥发苯基硅油:
其中基团R互相独立地代表甲基或苯基,条件是至少一个基团R代表苯基;
b)至少一种对应于下式(II)的任选具有至少一个聚二甲基硅氧烷片段的非挥发苯基硅油:
其中Me是甲基且Ph是苯基,OR′代表基团-OSiMe3,p为0或在1至1000之间,m在1至1000之间;和
c)至少一种选自纤维素醚的成膜聚合物;
其中对应于式(I)的非挥发苯基硅油与对应于式(II)的非挥发苯基硅油的重量比为0.5至1。
2.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其中式(I)的非挥发苯基硅油包含至少三个、至少四个或至少五个苯基。
3.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其中式(I)的非挥发苯基硅油选自三甲基五苯基三硅氧烷和四甲基四苯基三硅氧烷。
4.根据权利要求1-3任一项所述的组合物,其中式(I)的非挥发苯基硅油以相对于组合物的总重量计1重量%至30重量%,优选2重量%至20重量%,更优选5重量%至12重量%的量存在。
5.根据权利要求1-4任一项所述的组合物,其中式(II)的非挥发苯基硅油具有至少一个聚二甲基硅氧烷片段,p在1至1000之间,且m更特别使得化合物(II)是非挥发油。
6.根据权利要求1-4任一项所述的组合物,其中式(II)的非挥发苯基硅油选自苯基三甲基甲硅烷氧基三硅氧烷和三甲基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷。
7.根据权利要求1-6任一项所述的组合物,其中式(II)的非挥发苯基硅油以相对于组合物的总重量计2重量%至40重量%,优选6重量%至30重量%,更优选10重量%至24重量%的量存在。
8.根据权利要求1-7任一项所述的组合物,其中所述至少一种成膜聚合物选自甲基纤维素、乙基纤维素、丙基纤维素和甲基乙基纤维素。
9.根据权利要求1-8任一项所述的组合物,其中所述成膜聚合物以相对于组合物的总重量计0.5重量%至10重量%,优选1重量%至8重量%,更优选2重量%至6重量%的量存在。
10.根据权利要求1-9任一项所述的组合物,其进一步包含相对于组合物的总重量计30重量%至70重量%,优选40重量%至65重量%的量的选自辛基十二烷醇、庚酸硬脂醇酯、辛酸硬脂醇酯、异十六烷、苯甲酸C12-15烷基酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷及其混合物的至少一种附加油。
11.根据权利要求1-10任一项所述的组合物,其进一步包含相对于组合物的总重量计5重量%至30重量%,优选7重量%至20重量%,更优选8重量%至15重量%的量的选自合成蜡、石蜡、微晶蜡、聚乙烯、VP/二十碳烯共聚物及其混合物的至少一种蜡。
12.根据权利要求1-11任一项所述的组合物,其进一步包含相对于组合物的总重量计3重量%至20重量%,优选3重量%至15重量%,更优选5重量%至12重量%的量的选自YELLOW 5 LAKE、Blue 1 lake、RED 22 LAKE、RED 21、RED 7、二氧化钛、氧化铁、合成氟金云母及其混合物的至少一种着色剂。
13.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,相对于组合物的总重量计,其包含:
a)5重量%至12重量%的三甲基五苯基三硅氧烷;
b)10重量%至24重量%的三甲基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷;
c)2重量%至6重量%的乙基纤维素;和
d)8重量%至15重量%的选自合成蜡、石蜡、微晶蜡、聚乙烯、VP/二十碳烯共聚物及其混合物的至少一种蜡;
e)5重量%至12重量%的选自YELLOW 5 LAKE、Blue 1 lake、RED 22 LAKE、RED 21、RED7、二氧化钛、氧化铁、合成氟金云母及其混合物的至少一种着色剂;和
f)60重量%至75重量%的选自辛基十二烷醇、庚酸硬脂醇酯、辛酸硬脂醇酯、异十六烷、苯甲酸C12-15烷基酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷及其混合物的至少一种附加油。
14.用于角蛋白材料如皮肤和嘴唇的护理和/或化妆的方法,其包括将权利要求1-13任一项所述的组合物施加于角蛋白材料。
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WO2018024499A1 (en) * | 2016-08-04 | 2018-02-08 | L'oreal | Aqueous composition comprising alkylcellulose and an aromatic hydrocarbon-based oil and treatment process using same |
CN107787221A (zh) * | 2015-06-26 | 2018-03-09 | 莱雅公司 | 包含烷基纤维素、至少一种非挥发性油和基于烃的树脂的水性化妆品组合物 |
WO2019205043A1 (en) * | 2018-04-26 | 2019-10-31 | L'oreal | Solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials |
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CN107787221A (zh) * | 2015-06-26 | 2018-03-09 | 莱雅公司 | 包含烷基纤维素、至少一种非挥发性油和基于烃的树脂的水性化妆品组合物 |
WO2018024499A1 (en) * | 2016-08-04 | 2018-02-08 | L'oreal | Aqueous composition comprising alkylcellulose and an aromatic hydrocarbon-based oil and treatment process using same |
WO2019205043A1 (en) * | 2018-04-26 | 2019-10-31 | L'oreal | Solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials |
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