WO2019205043A1

WO2019205043A1 - Solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials

Info

Publication number: WO2019205043A1
Application number: PCT/CN2018/084566
Authority: WO
Inventors: Chunyan LEI
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2018-04-26
Filing date: 2018-04-26
Publication date: 2019-10-31
Also published as: CN111971024A

Abstract

A solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprises, a)10-25% by weight of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition; b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or phenyl silicone oil; and c) at least one hydrocarbon-based resin and at least one high viscosity ester. A process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips, comprises applying the solid anhydrous composition to the keratin materials.

Description

SOLID ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR AND/OR MAKING UP KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips. The present invention also relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips.

BACKGROUND

Compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips are produced to satisfy the need of moisturization or hydration of the skin and the lips.

Lipsticks with good moisturizing sensory, generally very easy to transfer to other surfaces such as hands, cups or clothing. In addition, some lipsticks will leave a sticky film on the lips upon application.

To date, some prior art documents relating to cosmetic solid compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips have been published.

WO 2013/191300 discloses a solid cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium at least one fatty phase comprising:

-from 5 to 30%by weight of (a) non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oils, or a mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition,

-from 43 to 90%by weight of the total content of (a) non-volatile silicone oil (s) relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein at least one of said non-volatile silicone oil (s) is a non-volatile phenylated silicon oil, and

-from 3 to 30%by weight of (a) wax (es) , or a mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

WO 2012/165130 discloses a cosmetic for lips which is characterized by comprising: (a) 5 to 30 mass%of hydrogenerated polyisobutene; (b) 30 to 70 mass%of one or more kinds of methyl phenyl silicones separating when mixed with (a) at 25℃; (c) 0.5 to 15 mass%of an oil separating when: mixed with (a) at 25℃; and mixed with (b) at 25℃; and (d) 4 to 12 mass%of a wax.

JP-A-2012-82188 discloses that a solid cosmetic for a lip comprises: (a) adhesion oil; (b) exudation oil, the viscosity of which is lower than that of the adhesion oil; and (c) wax dispersed at 90℃ and solidified at 25℃ when mixed at least with the exudation oil, and the solid cosmetic for a lip is separated when the (a) and the (b) are mixed at 25℃, and is characterized in that the (a) adhesion oil is dispersed into the (b) exudation oil or the (b) exudation oil is dispersed into the (a) adhesion oil.

In general, when women use makeup products, especially lip products such as lipstick or lip gloss, they hope that the colour of this product is not easily transferred after application and that the product results in good sensory, for example, non-sticky and non-dry feeling.

Thus, there is still a need to obtain products for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips which provide a deposit having good colour transfer resistance and a good sensory, for example, non-sticky and non-dry feeling.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

One object of the present invention is thus to provide products for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips which provide a deposit having good colour transfer resistance and a good sensory, for example, non-sticky and non-dry feeling.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips.

Thus, according to one aspect of the present invention, provided is a solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising:

a) 10%～25%by weight of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil;

b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or phenyl silicone oil; and

c) at least one hydrocarbon-based resin and at least one high viscosity ester.

According to another aspect of the present invention, provided is a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips, comprising applying the solid anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.

It has been surprisingly found that with the combination of a) 10%～25%by weight of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or phenyl silicone oil, and c) at least one hydrocarbon-based resin and at least one high viscosity ester, low color transfer and improved wear of color are observed upon application of the solid anhydrous composition, meanwhile good sensory including non-sticky and non-dry feeling are obtained.

Not intended to limited by any theory, it is believed that low color transfer and good sensory are resulted in by the combination of a) 10%～25%by weight of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, and b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or phenyl silicone oil, and the improved wear of color is resulted in by c) at least one hydrocarbon-based resin and at least one high viscosity ester.

In addition, the solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention is easy to apply, i.e. it has good spreadability, and would not lapse in a container, i.e., it has good shape stability.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials according to the present invention comprises:

a) 10%～25%by weight of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition;

c) at least one hydrocarbon-based resin and at least one high viscosity ester.

In some preferred embodiments, the solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one wax and/or at least one colorant.

The term "solid" used herein means the hardness of the composition at 20℃ and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm ^-1 when it is measured according to the protocol described below.

The composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20℃ for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

The hardness may be measured at 20℃ via the “cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 μm in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.

The hardness of the samples of compositions of the present invention, expressed in Nm ^-1, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.

The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into Newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical wand, L is equal to the diameter (in metres) .

The hardness is converted into Nm ^-1 by the equation below:

(Y×10 ^-3×9.8) /L

For a measurement at a different temperature, the composition is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.

According to this measuring method, the composition according to the present invention preferably has hardness at 20℃ and at atmospheric pressure of greater than or equal to 40 Nm- ¹ and preferably greater than 50 Nm ^-1.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention especially has a hardness at 20℃ of less than 500 Nm ^-1, especially less than 400 Nm ^-1 and preferably less than 300 Nm ^-1.

Advantageously, these compositions have a shear value ranging from 75 to 150 gF and preferably from 100 to 125 gF. Thus, these compositions may be formulated in standard packaging that does not require any composition support means.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2%and preferably less than 0.5%by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, such small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, but are not deliberately provided.

Preferably, the “keratin material” according to the present invention is the skin and the lips. By “skin” , we intend to mean all the body skin, including the scalp. Still preferably, the keratin material is the lips.

Non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil (s)

The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .

The term "non-volatile" means an oil of which the vapour pressure at 25℃ and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 ^-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .

The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.

The term "non-phenyl silicone oil" denotes a silicone oil not bearing any phenyl substituents.

Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils which may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinylmethyl methicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and/or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

It should be noted that "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name) .

The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from non-volatile dimethicone oils.

In particular, these oils can be chosen from the following non-volatile oils:

-polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) ,

-PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each comprising from 2 to 12 carbon atoms.

-PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

-polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

-polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, these non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones and also PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, in particular C ₂-C ₁₂ alkyl groups, and/or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

The non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I) :

in which:

R ₁, R ₂, R ₅ and R ₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R ₃ and R ₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,

n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular of which the viscosity at 25℃ is between 100 centistokes (cSt) and 1000 cSt.

As non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of those for which:

-the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt or 350 cSt, for example the products sold respectively under the names Belsil DM100 and Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning;

-the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive;

.-the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 1000 cSt.

The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil (s) can be present in an amount ranging from 10%to 25%by weight, preferably 15%to 22%by weight, more preferably, 18%to 21%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (s) and/or phenyl silicone oil (s)

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (s)

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:

-liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,

-squalane,

-isoeicosane,

-naphthalene oil,

-polybutylenes, for instance Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g/mol) , Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,

-hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as for example

sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW=1340 g/mol) , Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW=6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW=1000 g/mol) , or alternatively Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,

-decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,

-hydrogenated and non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for instance Puresyn 10 (MW=723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW=9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals, or alternatively Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical,

-synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R ₁+R ₂≥16, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate; preferably, the preferred synthetic esters R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms are such that R ₁ and R ₂≥20;

-and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, polydecenes and/or hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutylene and hydrogenated polydecene.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from synthetic esters, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate.

According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutenes, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate and a mixture thereof.

Non-volatile phenyl silicone oils

The expression "phenyl silicone oil" denotes a silicone oil bearing at least one phenyl substituent.

These non-volatile phenyl silicone oils may be chosen from those also having at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those not having one.

According to the present invention, a dimethicone fragment corresponds to the following unit:

-Si (CH ₃) ₂-O-.

The non-volatile phenyl silicone oil may thus be chosen from:

a) phenyl silicone oils optionally having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) below:

in which the groups R, which are monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three, for example at least four, at least five or at least six, phenyl groups.

b) phenyl silicone oils optionally having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (III) below:

in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (III) comprises at least three, for example at least four or at least five, phenyl groups.

Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds described above can be used.

Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl-or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.

Among the compounds of formula (III) , mention may be made more particularly of phenyl silicone oils not having any dimethicone fragments, corresponding to formula (III) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radicals representing methyls.

Such non-volatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are in particular sold by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1, 3, 5-trimethyl-1, 1, 3, 5, 5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) , or the tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used.

They correspond in particular to formulae (IV) and (IV') below:

in which Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.

c) phenyl silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (V) below:

in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents -CH ₂-CH (CH ₃) (Ph) .

d) phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

-R ₁ to R ₁₀, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals,

-m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.

Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.

Preferably, q is equal to 0.

More particularly, R ₁ to R ₁₀, independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a preferably saturated, C ₁-C ₂₀, in particular C ₁-C ₁₈, hydrocarbon-based radical, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆-C ₁₄, and in particular C ₁₀-C ₁₃, aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is preferably C ₁-C ₃ alkyl.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀ may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R ₁ to R ₁₀ may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.

According to a more particular embodiment of formula (VI) , mention may be made of:

i) phenyl silicone oils optionally having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VII) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

-R ₁ to R ₆, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, a preferably C ₆-C ₁₄ aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is C ₁-C ₃ alkyl,

-m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆, independently of each other, represent a C ₁-C ₂₀, in particular C ₁-C ₁₈, hydrocarbon-based, preferably alkyl, radical, or a C ₆-C ₁₄ aryl radical which is monocyclic (preferably C ₆) or polycyclic and in particular C ₁₀-C ₁₃, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is C ₆ aryl; the alkyl part is C ₁-C ₃ alkyl) .

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

R ₁ to R ₆ may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VII) .

According to one particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment.

Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VII) in which:

A) m=0 and n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 1 and 100

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ are methyl radicals.

According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyl dimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt) , KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt) , KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt) , KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175 cSt) or KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt) .

B) p is between 1 and 100, the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, and n=0

These phenyl silicone oils optionally having at least one dimethicone fragment correspond more particularly to formula (VIII) below:

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR'represents a group-OSiMe ₃ and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound (VIII) is a non-volatile oil.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, non-volatile phenyl silicone having at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000 and m is more particularly such that the compound (VIII) is a non-volatile oil. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker, may, for example, be used.

According to an embodiment of non-volatile phenyl silicone not having a dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0 and m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that the compound (VIII) is a non-volatile oil.

Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556) , may, for example, be used.

ii) non-volatile phenyl silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (IX) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

-R, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably R is a C ₁-C ₃₀ alkyl radical, a preferably C ₆-C ₁₄ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is C ₁-C ₃ alkyl,

-m and n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R, independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a preferably saturated, C ₁-C ₂₀, in particular C ₁-C ₁₈ and more particularly C ₄-C ₁₀, hydrocarbon-based radical, a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆-C ₁₄, and in particular C ₁₀-C ₁₃, aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical of which preferably the aryl part is C ₆ aryl and the alkyl part is C ₁-C ₃ alkyl.

Preferably, the groups R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

The groups R may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.

Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (IX) .

According to one preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (IX) . Preferably, R is a methyl radical.

According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (IX) with a viscosity at 25℃ of between 5 and 1500 mm ²/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt) , and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm ²/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) , may be used.

According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones (when n=0) such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt) , or else from diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as KF56 A from Shin Etsu, or the Silbione 70663V30 oil from

(28 cSt) . The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25℃.

e) phenyl silicone oils optionally having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

R ₁, R ₂, R ₅ and R ₆, which may be identical or different, are an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R ₃ and R ₄, which may be identical or different, are an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably C ₆-C ₁₄) , with the proviso that at least one of R ₃ and R ₄ is a phenyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,

n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular weight of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.

f) and a mixture thereof

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises both a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and a non-volatile phenyl silicone oil.

According to one more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises both a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutenes, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate and mixtures thereof, and a non-volatile phenyl silicone oil chosen from phenyl silicone oils not having any dimethicone fragments, corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radicals representing methyls, i.e phenyl silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (III) below:

wherein at least 3, at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radical R represent methyls,

more preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane.

The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (s) and/or phenyl silicone oil (s) are present in a total content ranging from 30%to 70%by weight, in particular from 35%to 65%by weight and preferably from 40%to 60%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrocarbon-based resins

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based resin.

Preferably, the resin used in the composition according to the present invention has a number-average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10 000 g/mol, especially ranging from 250 to 5000 g/mol, better still less than or equal to 2000 g/mol, especially ranging from 250 to 2000 g/mol and even ranging from 250 g/mol to 1000 g/mol.

The number-average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector) .

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based resin is chosen from low molecular weight polymers that may be classified, according to the type of monomer they comprise, as:

-indene hydrocarbon-based resins, preferably such as resins derived from the polymerization in major proportion of indene monomer and in minor proportion of a monomer chosen from styrene, methylindene and methylstyrene, and mixtures thereof. These resins may optionally be hydrogenated. These resins may have a molecular weight ranging from 290 to 1150 g/mol.

Examples of indene resins that may be mentioned include those sold under the reference Escorez 7105 by the company Exxon Chem., Nevchem 100 and Nevex 100 by the company Neville Chem., Norsolene S105 by the company Sartomer, Picco 6100 by the company Hercules and Resinall by the company Resinall Corp., or the hydrogenated indene/methylstyrene/styrene copolymers sold under the name “Regalite” by the company Eastman Chemical, in particular Regalite R1100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 Hydrocarbon Resin and Regalite R1125 Hydrocarbon Resin;

-aliphatic pentanediene resins such as those derived from the majority polymerization of the 1, 3-pentanediene (trans-or cis-piperylene) monomer and of minor monomers chosen from isoprene, butene, 2-methyl-2-butene, pentene and 1, 4-pentanediene, and mixtures thereof. These resins may have a molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 2500 g/mol.

Such 1, 3-pentanediene resins are sold, for example, under the references Piccotac 95 by the company Eastman Chemical, Escorez 1304 by the company Exxon Chemicals, Nevtac 100 by the company Neville Chem. or Wingtack 95 by the company Goodyear;

-mixed resins of pentanediene and of indene, which are derived from the polymerization of a mixture of pentanediene and indene monomers such as those described above, for instance the resins sold under the reference Escorez 2101 by the company Exxon Chemicals, Nevpene 9500 by the company Neville Chem., Hercotac 1148 by the company Hercules, Norsolene A 100 by the company Sartomer, and Wingtack 86, Wingtack Extra and Wingtack Plus by the company Goodyear;

-diene resins of cyclopentanediene dimers such as those derived from the polymerization of first monomers chosen from indene and styrene, and of second monomers chosen from cyclopentanediene dimers such as dicyclopentadiene, methyldicyclopentanediene and other pentanediene dimers, and mixtures thereof. These resins generally have a molecular weight ranging from 500 to 800 g/mol, for instance those sold under the reference Betaprene BR 100 by the company Arizona Chemical Co., Neville LX-685-125 and Neville LX-1000 by the company Neville Chem., Piccodiene 2215 by the company Hercules, Petro-Rez 200 by the company Lawter or Resinall 760 by the company Resinall Corp.;

-diene resins of isoprene dimers such as terpenic resins derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer chosen fromα-pinene, β-pinene and limonene, and mixtures thereof. These resins can have a molecular weight ranging from 300 to 2000 g/mol. Such resins are sold, for example, under the names Piccolyte A115 and S125 by Hercules or Zonarez 7100 or Zonatac 105 Lite by Arizona Chem.

Mention may also be made of certain modified resins such as hydrogenated resins, for instance those sold under the name Eastotac C6-C20 Polyolefin by the company Eastman Chemical Co., under the reference Escorez 5300 by the company Exxon Chemicals, or the resins Nevillac Hard or Nevroz sold by the company Neville Chem., the resins Piccofyn A-100, Piccotex 100 or Piccovar AP25 sold by the company Hercules or the resin SP-553 sold by the company Schenectady Chemical Co.

According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based resin is chosen from indene hydrocarbon-based resins, aliphatic pentadiene resins, mixed resins of pentanediene and of indene, diene resins of cyclopentanediene dimers and diene resins of isoprene dimers, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one compound chosen from hydrocarbon-based resins as described previously, especially indene hydrocarbon-based resins and aliphatic pentadiene resins, or mixtures thereof. According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based resin is chosen from indene hydrocarbon-based resins.

According to one preferred embodiment, the resin is chosen from indene/methylstyrene/hydrogenated styrene copolymers.

In particular, use may be made of indene/methylstyrene/hydrogenated styrene copolymers, such as those sold under the name Regalite by the company Eastman Chemical, such as Regalite R 1100, Regalite R 1090, Regalite R-7100, Regalite R 1010 Hydrocarbon Resin and Regalite R 1125 Hydrocarbon Resin.

Preferably, the content of the hydrocarbon-based resin according to the present invention is from 1%to 20%by weight, more particularly from 3%to 15%by weight and preferably from 4%to 10%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

High viscosity esters

By high viscosity, it is meant that the ester has a viscosity of at least 10 000 cps at room temperature.

Preferred examples of such esters include, but are not limited to, C ₁-C ₃₀ monoesters and polyesters of sugars and related materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters can be in either liquid or solid form at room temperature. Suitable liquid esters include, but are not limited to: glucose tetraoleate, the glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated) , the mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, the galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, the arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, the sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoletate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Suitable solid esters may include, but are not limited to: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are palmitoleate and arachidate in a 1: 2 molar ratio; the octaester of raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3 molar ratio; the heptaester of maltose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a 3: 4 molar ratio; the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a 2: 6 molar ratio; and the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3: 4 molar ratio. In an embodiment, the ester is a sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid moieties are C ₁₈ mono-and/or di-unsaturated and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturates: behenic of 1: 7 to 3: 5. In another embodiment, the sugar polyester is the octaester of sucrose in which there are about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule. Other materials may include cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid esters of sucrose.

A preferred high viscosity ester for use in the present invention is chosen from C ₂-C ₆ carboxylic acid ester of sucrose. More particularly, the C ₂-C ₆ carboxylic acid ester of sucrose is chosen from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose, and in particular sucrose diacetate hexakis (2-methylpropanoate) , such as the product sold under the name Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher by the company Eastman Chemical (INCI name: sucrose acetate isobutyrate) , which has a viscosity of about 100 000 cps at 30℃ and a refractive index of about 1.5 at 20℃.

The at least one high viscosity ester is advantageously present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from 1%to 20%by weight, preferably from 3%to 15%by weight, and more preferably from 4%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Wax (s)

The wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25℃) , with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30℃, preferably greater than or equal to 40℃, which may be up to 200℃ and in particular up to 120℃.

Waxes used in the present invention includes waxes of animal origin, waxes of plant origin, waxes of mineral origin, synthetic waxes, and various fractions of waxes of natural origin.

Animal waxes include, but are not limited to, beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax, derivatives of lanoline and China insect waxes. Vegetable waxes includes, but are not limited to, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, cocoa butter, Japan wax and sumac wax. Mineral waxes include, but are not limited to, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, petroleum jelly and ceresine. Synthetic waxes include, but are not limited to, polyethylene homopolymer and compolymer waxes, synthecit beewax, waxes obtained by the Fisher and Tropsch synthesis, and silicon waxes.

Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, having linear or branched C ₈-C ₃₂ fatty chains are also used, as well as fatty esters and glycerides.

Waxes also include silicone waxes, among which, mention may be made of polymethylsiloxane alkyls, alkoxys and/or esters. The waxes may be in the form of stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, in according with known methods, such as "Microemulsions Theory and Practice" , L.M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) , pages 21-32. Lignate wax may also be used.

Waxes useful in the composition according to the present invention may provide one or more of the following properties, including, but not limited to, bulking, texture, and a degree of water resistance. The waxes should not substantially reduce the gloss properties of a glossy film former, if presents.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the wax (es) used in the present invention is chosen from synthetic wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, or mixtures thereof.

The wax (es) can be present in an amount ranging from 5%to 30%by weight, preferably 7%to 20%by weight, more preferably 8%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Colorant (s)

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "colorant" means a compound that is capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.

The colorant under consideration in the context of the present invention may be chosen from water-soluble or water-insoluble, liposoluble or non-liposoluble, organic or inorganic colorants, and materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

Water-soluble dyes

The water-soluble colorants used according to the present invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting colour. In particular, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the capacity of a compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25℃, to a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/l (production of a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, coloured or colourless solution) . This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/l.

As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FD&C Red 4 (CI: 14700) , DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850) , DC Red 22 (CI: 45380) , DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt) , DC Red 30 (CI: 73360) , DC Red 33 (CI: 17200) , DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510) , FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140) , FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985) , DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt) , FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053) , DC Green 5 (CI: 61570) , FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090) .

As non-limiting illustrations of sources of water-soluble colorant (s) that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal carmine, of beetroot, of grape, of carrot, of tomato, of annatto, of paprika, of henna, of caramel and of curcumin.

Thus, the water-soluble colorants that are suitable for use in the present invention are in particular carminic acid, betanin, anthocyans, enocyanins, lycopene, β-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, the disodium salt of tartrazine and the disodium salt of fuchsin.

Some of these water-soluble colorants are in particular approved for food use. Representatives of these dyes that may be mentioned more particularly include dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

Pigments

The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in a liquid organic phase, and which are intended to color and/or opacify the composition and/or the deposit produced with the composition.

The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials) .

The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lakes and pigments with an optical effect, for instance goniochromatic pigments and nacres.

The mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red) , titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminium powders and copper powder, and mixtures thereof.

Organic lakes are organic pigments formed from a dye attached to a substrate.

The lakes, which are also known as organic pigments, may be chosen from the materials below, and mixtures thereof:

-cochineal carmine;

-organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluorane dyes.

Among the organic pigments that may in particular be mentioned are those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6;

-the organic lakes may be insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, these dyes possibly comprising at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.

The organic lakes may also be supported on an organic support such as rosin or aluminium benzoate, for example.

Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminium/Titanium/Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 28 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 30 lake, D&C Red No. 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 33 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 36 lake, D&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake, D&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake, D&C Green No. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Orange No. 10 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminium lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake, FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminium lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminium lake and FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminium lake.

Mention may also be made of liposoluble dyes, such as, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.

The chemical substances corresponding to each of the organic colorants cited above are mentioned in the publication "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" , 1997 edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association" , the content of which is incorporated into the present patent application by way of reference.

The pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylamino acids can comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited above in particular denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobically treated pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-1 086 683.

Nacres

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "nacre" means coloured particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye in particular of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.

As illustrations of nacres that may be introduced as interference pigments into the first composition, mention may be made of the gold-coloured nacres sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica) , Gold 222C (Cloisonne) , Sparkle gold (Timica) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne) ; the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne) ; the orange nacres sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna) ; the brown tinted nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chroma-lite) ; the copper-tinted nacres sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica) ; the red-tinted nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona) ; the yellow-tinted nacres sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite) ; the gold-tinted red nacres sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone) ; the pink nacres sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone) ; the gold-tinted black nacres sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica) , the blue nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna) , the silvery-tinted white nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) , and mixtures thereof.

Goniochromatic pigments

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "goniochromatic pigment" denotes a pigment which makes it possible to obtain, when the composition is spread onto a support, a colour trajectory in the a*b*plane of the CIE 1976 colorimetric space that corresponds to a variation Dh°in the hue angle h°of at least 20°when the angle of observation relative to the normal is varied between 0°and 80°, for an incident light angle of 45°.

The color trajectory may be measured, for example, using an Instrument Systems brand spectrogonioreflectometer of reference GON 360 Goniometer, after the composition has been spread in fluid form to a thickness of 300 μm using an automatic spreader onto an Erichsen brand contrast card of reference Typ 24/5, the measurement being taken on the black background of the card.

The goniochromatic pigment may be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colouring agents.

In the case of a multilayer structure, it may comprise, for example, at least two layers, each layer being made, for example, from at least one material chosen from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF ₂, CeF ₃, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO ₂, Ge, Te, Fe ₂O ₃, Pt, Va, Al ₂O ₃, MgO, Y ₂O ₃, S ₂O ₃, SiO, HfO ₂, ZrO ₂, CeO ₂, Nb ₂O ₅, Ta ₂O ₅, TiO ₂, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS ₂, cryolite, alloys, polymers and combinations thereof.

The multilayer structure may or may not have, relative to a central layer, symmetry in the chemical nature of the stacked layers.

Different effects are obtained depending on the thickness and the nature of the various layers.

Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures are, for example, the following structures: Fe ₂O ₃/SiO ₂/Fe ₂O ₃/SiO ₂/Fe ₂O ₃, a pigment having this structure being sold under the name Sicopearl by the company BASF; MoS ₂/SiO ₂/mica-oxide/SiO ₂/MoS ₂; Fe ₂O ₃/SiO ₂/mica-oxide/SiO ₂/Fe ₂O ₃; TiO ₂/SiO ₂/TiO ₂ and TiO ₂/Al ₂O ₃/TiO ₂, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona by the company Merck.

The liquid-crystal coloring agents comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which are grafted mesomorphic groups. Examples of liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include, for example, those sold by the company Chenix and also those sold under the name

HC by the company Wacker.

Goniochromatic pigments that may also be used include certain nacres, pigments with effects on a synthetic substrate, in particular a substrate such as alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide or aluminium, or interference flakes obtained from a polyterephthalate film.

By way of nonlimiting examples of goniochromatic pigments, mention may in particular be made, alone or in mixtures, of

goniochromatic pigments sold by SunChemicals, Cosmicolor

from Toyo Aluminium K.K.,

from Merck and Reflecks

from BASF.

Optionally, these particles may comprise or be covered with optical brightener (s) (or organic white fluorescent substances) .

Optical brighteners are compounds well known to a person skilled in the art. Such compounds are described in "Fluorescent Whitening Agent, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer" , vol. 11, pp. 227-241, 4 ^th Edition, 1994, Wiley.

Their use in cosmetics in particular exploits the fact that they consist of chemical compounds having fluorescence properties, which absorb in the ultraviolet region (maximum absorption at a wavelength of less than 400 nm) and re-emit energy by fluorescence for a wavelength of between 380 nm and 830 nm. They may be defined more particularly as compounds that absorb essentially in the UVA region between 300 and 390 nm and re-emit essentially between 400 and 525 nm. Their lightening effect is based more particularly on an emission of energy between 400 and 480 nm, which corresponds to an emission in the blue part of the visible region, which contributes to lightening the skin visually when this emission takes place on the skin.

Optical brighteners that are in particular known include stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinylstilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarins and aminocoumarins, oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, pyrene derivatives, porphyrin derivatives and mixtures thereof.

The optical brighteners that can be used may also be in the form of copolymers, for example of acrylates and/or methacrylates, grafted with optical brightener groups as described in application FR 99 10942.

According to a preferred embodiment, the colorant used in the present invention is chosen from metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the colorant (es) used in the present invention is chosen from titanium dioxide, Yellow 6 lake, Red 7, Blue 1 lake, or mixtures thereof.

The colorant can be present in an amount ranging from 3%to 20%by weight, preferably, 5%to 16%by weight, more preferably 6%to 12%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

In a particular embodiment, a solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additive usually used in the field under consideration. In particular the additive is chosen from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, dispersants, antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, additional cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.

It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the present invention such that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising:

a) at least one wax chosen from synthetic wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, or mixtures thereof;

b) at least one colorant chosen from metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof;

c) 10%～25%by weight of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I) :

in which:

n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular of which the viscosity at 25℃ is between 100 centistokes (cSt) and 1000 cSt, relative to the total weight of the composition;

d) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutenes, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate and at least one phenyl silicone oil chosen from phenyl silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (III) below:

wherein at least 3, at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radical R represent methyls, more preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane; and

e) at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon-based resin, in particular hydrogenated indene/methylstyrene/styrene copolymer and at least one high viscosity ester chosen from C ₂-C ₆ carboxylic acid ester of sucrose, in particular, sucrose acetate isobutyrate.

Galenic form

The composition of the present invention is suitable to be used as a skin care, make up or cosmetic treatment product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of make-up product such as lipstick and so on.

The composition according to the present invention may be prepared in a conventional manner.

The terms "between" and "ranging from" used herein should be understood as including the limits.

The present invention also relates to a process for caring for/making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips, by applying the solid anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.

Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understand by one of ordinary skill in the art to which the present invention pertains.

The examples that follow are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention. The percentages are weight percentages.

Examples

Formulation examples

Lipsticks with the following formulas are prepared (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material, unless otherwise indicated) :

Protocol of preparation

The lipsticks are prepared following the steps of:

i) Mixing all the ingredients under 93℃, stiring the mixture at 300r/min by IKA Blender Euro–ST P CV S25 model until homogeneous;

ii) Pouring the homogenized mixture into a lip stick mould at 93 ℃, leaving the mixture in the mould under 25 ℃ until solidation; and

iii) Demoulding the solid mixture from the lip stick mould.

Evaluation example

Evaluation on hardness of the lipsticks, stability of the shape of the lipsticks, spreadability of the lipsticks, color transfer, wear of color, non-sticky and non-dry feeling after application of the lipsticks are performed.

Hardness is evaluated according to the protocol described previously.

Stability of the shape is evaluated using crash test, by following steps:

heat the composition to 38 ℃ for 24 hours;

apply the composition to the lips under the heated temperature.

Spreadability is evaluated by 5 experts by the following steps:

repeatly apply the composition three times on the same area of the forearm using the same force;

weigh the weight loss of the composition;

measure the size of the area on the forearm where the composition is applied;

calculate the weight loss per square centimeter.

The non-sticky and non-dry feeling, as well as wear of color after application is evaluated by 5 experts by the following steps:

Firstly, repeatly apply the compositions according to invention and comparative examples, respectively, three times on the same area of the lips using the same force;

Color transfer is evaluated by 5 experts by the following steps:

Firstly, repeatly apply the compositions according to invention and comparative examples, respectively, three times on the same area of the lips using the same force; wait for 5 min, then kiss a tissue, check color transfer on tissue. The less the color transfer, the better.

Wear of color is evaluated by 5 experts by the following steps:

Firstly, repeatly apply the compositions according to invention and comparative examples, respectively, three times on the same area of the lips using the same force; wear for 2h, then check color intensity on lips. The higher the color intensity, the better.

Then comments or scores are given by the experts on the above mentioned properties.

5: very good;

4: basically good;

3: acceptable;

2: slightly poor and not acceptable;

1: poor, not acceptable.

The resulted are summarized in the following table 1:

Table 1: properties of invention compostions and comparative exmaple

It is observed that the compositions according to invention examples 1-3 demonstrated very low color transfer and improved of color, and good sensory upon application, while the composition according to comparative Examples 1 and 2 showed very high color transfer. Based on the above listed evaluation results, the inventors discovered that the composition according to the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition with desired hardness, color transfer, and good usage including spreadability, sensory upon application.

Claims

A solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising:

a) 10%～25%by weight of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition;

b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or phenyl silicone oil; and

c) at least one hydrocarbon-based resin and at least one high viscosity ester.
The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises at least one wax and/or at least one colorant.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one non-phenyl silicone oil is chosen from silicones of formula (I) :

in which:

R ₁, R ₂, R ₅ and R ₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R ₃ and R ₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,

n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular of which the viscosity at 25℃ is between 100 centistokes (cSt) and 1000 cSt.
The composition according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutylene, hydrogenated polydecene, and synthetic esters, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate.
The composition according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that the at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) below :

wherein at least 3, at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radical R represent methyls,

more preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane.
The composition according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that the at least one hydrocarbon-based resin is chosen from aliphatic hydrocarbon-based resins, in particular hydrogenated indene/methylstyrene/styrene copolymer.
The composition according to any one of claims 1-6, characterized in that the at least one high viscosity ester is chosen from C ₂-C ₆ carboxylic acid ester of sucrose, in particular, mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose.
The composition according to any one of claims 2-7, characterized in that the at least one wax is chosen from animal waxes, such as, beewax, spermaceti, lanolin wax, derivatives of lanoline and China insect waxes; vegetable waxes, such as, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, cocoa butter, Japan wax and sumac wax; mineral waxes, such as, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, petroleum jelly and ceresine; synthetic waxes, such as, polyethylene homopolymer and compolymer waxes, synthecit beewax, waxes obtained by the Fisher and Tropsch synthesis, and silicon waxes.
The composition according to any one of claims 2-8, characterized in that the at least one colorant is chosen from metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to any one of claims 2-9, characterized in that the at least one wax is present in an amount ranging from 5%to 30%by weight, preferably 7%to 20%by weight, more preferably 8%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 2-10, characterized in that the at least one colorant is present in an amount ranging from 3%to 20%by weight, preferably, 5%to 16%by weight, more preferably 6%to 12%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1-11, characterized in that the at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil is present in an amount ranging from 10%to25%by weight, preferably 15%to 22%by weight, more preferably, 18%to 21%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1-12, characterized in that the at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or phenyl silicone oil is present in a total content ranging from 30%to 70%by weight, in particular from 35%to 65%by weight and preferably from 40%to 60%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
A solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising:

a) at least one wax chosen from synthic wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, or mixtures thereof;

b) at least one colorant chosen from metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof;

c) 10%～25%by weight of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I) :

in which:

R ₁, R ₂, R ₅ and R ₆ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R ₃ and R ₄ are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical,

n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, inparticular of which the viscosity at 25℃ is between 100 centistokes (cSt) and 1000 cSt, relative to the total weight of the composition;

d) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutenes, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate and at least one phenyl silicone oil chosen from phenyl silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (III) below:

wherein at least 3, at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radical R represent methyls,

more preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane; and

e) at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon-based resin, in particular hydrogenated indene/methylstyrene/styrene copolymer and at least one high viscosity ester chosen from C ₂-C ₆ carboxylic acid ester of sucrose, in particular, mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose.
A process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips, by applying the composition as defined in any of claims 1-14 to the keratin materials.