CN111971024A

CN111971024A - Solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials

Info

Publication number: CN111971024A
Application number: CN201880092495.1A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 类春燕
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2018-04-26
Filing date: 2018-04-26
Publication date: 2020-11-20
Also published as: WO2019205043A1

Abstract

A solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising: a) 10-25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil; b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or phenyl silicone oil; and c) at least one hydrocarbon-based resin and at least one high viscosity ester. A method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips, comprises applying a solid anhydrous composition to the keratin materials.

Description

Solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips. The invention also relates to a method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips.

Background

Compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips are manufactured to meet the moisturizing or hydrating needs of the skin and the lips.

Lipsticks with good moisturized feel are often very easily transferred to other surfaces, such as hands, cups, or clothing. In addition, some lipsticks will leave a sticky film on the lips after application.

To date, some prior art documents have been disclosed relating to cosmetic solid compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.

WO 2013/191300 discloses a solid cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising:

-5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a non-volatile hydrocarbonated apolar oil or mixture thereof,

-a total content of non-volatile silicone oils of 43 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one of which is a non-volatile phenylated silicone oil, and

-from 3 to 30% by weight of wax or a mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

WO 2012/165130 discloses a cosmetic for lips characterized by comprising: (a)5 to 30 mass% of hydrogenated polyisobutene; (b)30 to 70 mass% of one or more methylphenylsilicones that separate when mixed at 25 ℃ with (a); (c)0.5 to 15 mass% of an oil which separates when mixed with (a) at 25 ℃ and mixed with (b) at 25 ℃; and (d)4 to 12 mass% of wax.

JP- ｃA-2012-82188 discloses ｃA solid cosmetic for lips, which comprises: (a) adhesive oil (adhesive oil); (b) an exudation oil (viscosity oil) having a viscosity lower than that of the binding oil; and (c) a wax which disperses at 90 ℃ and solidifies at 25 ℃ when mixed with at least the exuded oil, and which separates when mixing (a) and (b) at 25 ℃, and is characterized in that (a) the adhesive oil disperses into (b) the exuded oil, or (b) the exuded oil disperses into (a) the adhesive oil.

Generally, when women use cosmetic products, particularly lip products such as lipsticks or lip glosses, they want the color of the product not to easily transfer after application and want the product to give good feeling, e.g., non-stick and non-dry feeling.

Thus, there remains a need to obtain products for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, which provide deposits having good resistance to color transfer and good feel (for example, non-sticky and non-dry feel).

Summary of The Invention

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide products for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, which provide deposits having good resistance to color transfer and good feel (for example, non-sticky and non-dry feel).

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips.

Thus, according to one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:

a)10 to 25 weight percent of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil;

b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or phenyl silicone oil; and

c) at least one hydrocarbon-based resin and at least one high viscosity ester.

According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips, which comprises applying a solid anhydrous composition as described above onto the keratin materials.

It has been unexpectedly found that: by the combination of a) 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil, b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or phenyl silicone oil and c) at least one hydrocarbon-based resin and at least one high viscosity ester, low color transfer and improved color durability (wear of color) are observed after application of the solid anhydrous composition while obtaining good feel, including non-sticky and non-dry feel.

Without wishing to be bound by any theory, it is believed that low color transfer and good feel result from the combination of a)10 wt% to 25 wt% of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil and b) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or phenyl silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, and improved color durability results from c) at least one hydrocarbon-based resin and at least one high viscosity ester.

In addition, the solid anhydrous composition according to the invention is easy to apply, i.e. it has good spreadability, and does not collapse in a container (lapse), i.e. it has good shape stability.

Detailed Description

The solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials according to the invention comprises:

a) 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil;

c) at least one hydrocarbon-based resin and at least one high viscosity ester.

In some preferred embodiments, the solid anhydrous composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one wax and/or at least one colorant.

The term "solid" as used herein means having a hardness of greater than or equal to 30 Nm at 20 ℃ and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) when the composition is measured according to the following procedure^-1。

The compositions whose hardness is to be determined are stored at 20 ℃ for 24 hours before the hardness is measured.

The hardness can be measured at 20 ℃ via the "cheese wire" method, which involves cutting the bar, preferably a cylinder, transversely by moving the wire at a speed of 100 mm/min relative to the product bar by means of a hard tungsten wire of 250 μm diameter.

The hardness of the composition samples of the invention was measured in Nm using a DFGS2 tensile tester from Inpelco-Chatillon^-1And (4) showing.

The measurement was repeated three times, and then an average value was taken. The average of the three values read using the tensile tester described above (denoted as Y) is given in grams. This average is converted to newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance the wire has traveled. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

Conversion of hardness into Nm by the following equation^-1：

(Y×10^-3×9.8)/L

For measurements at different temperatures, the composition was stored at this new temperature for 24 hours before the measurement.

According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a Nm greater than or equal to 40 at 20 ℃ and atmospheric pressure^-1And preferably more than 50 Nm^-1The hardness of (2).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has in particular less than 500 Nm at 20 ℃^-1In particular less than 400 Nm^-1And preferably less than 300 Nm^-1The hardness of (2).

Advantageously, these compositions have a shear value in the range of from 75 to 150 gF and preferably from 100 to 125 gF. Thus, these compositions can be formulated in standard packaging that does not require any composition support mechanism.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the invention contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Such small amounts of water may, where appropriate, be provided by components of the composition that contain water in residual amounts, rather than intentionally.

Preferably, the "keratin materials" according to the invention are the skin and the lips. By "skin" is meant all body skin, including the scalp. Also preferably, the keratin material is the lips.

Non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil

The term "oil" refers to a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The term "non-volatile (oil)" means that the vapour pressure at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure is not zero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10^-3mmHg (0.13 Pa) oil.

The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and in particular containing Si-O groups.

The term "non-phenyl silicone oil" refers to a silicone oil which does not carry any phenyl substituents.

Representative examples of such non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyl polydimethylsiloxanes, vinyl methyl polymethylsiloxanes, and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and/or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, mercapto and/or amine groups.

Note that "polydimethylsiloxane" (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane oils.

In particular, these oils may be chosen from the following non-volatile oils:

-Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS),

PDMS comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, each comprising from 2 to 12 carbon atoms.

PDMS containing aliphatic or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,

polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted by functional groups such as hydroxyl, mercapto and/or amine groups,

polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, these non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyl polydimethylsiloxanes and also those comprising aliphatic groups, in particular C₂-C₁₂Alkyl and/or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine based PDMS.

The non-phenyl silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I):

(I)

wherein:

R₁、R₂、R₅and R₆Together or separately, an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃and R₄Together or separately, an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl group, an amine group or a hydroxyl group,

x is an alkyl, hydroxyl or amine group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

n and p are integers selected so as to obtain fluid compounds, in particular fluid compounds having a viscosity at 25 ℃ of between 100 centistokes (cSt) and 1000 cSt.

As non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those in which:

-substituent R₁To R₆And X represents methyl, and p and n give a viscosity of 100 cSt or 350 cSt, for example the products sold by the company Dow Corning under the names Belsil DM100 and Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS, respectively;

-substituent R₁To R₆Represents methyl, the radical X represents hydroxyl, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by Momentive;

-substituent R₁To R₆Represents methyl, the group X represents hydroxyl, and n and p give a viscosity of 1000 cSt.

The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil may be present in an amount ranging from 10% to 25% by weight, preferably from 15% to 22% by weight, more preferably from 18% to 21% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or phenyl silicone oil

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil that is essentially formed of, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

These oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:

-liquid paraffin or a derivative thereof,

-squalane, which is a mixture of squalane,

-an isoeicosane, a mixture of isoeicosane,

-a naphthalene oil,

polybutenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by Amoco,

hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as, for example, Parleam @soldby Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300E sold or manufactured by Amoco (MW = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by Synteal (MW = 6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by Witco (MW = 1000 g/mol), or Parleam Lite sold by NOF Corporation,

-decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,

hydrogenated and non-hydrogenated polydecenes, such as Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol), sold or manufactured by Mobil Chemicals, or Puresyn 6, sold by ExxonMobil Chemical,

synthetic esters, e.g. of the formula R₁COOR₂Of oil of (1), whereinR₁Represents a straight-chain or branched fatty acid residue containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂Represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R₁ + R₂Not less than 16, for example purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, benzoic acid C₁₂To C₁₅Alkanol ester, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecanol pivalate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, 2-octyldodecanol stearate, 2-octyldodecanol erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecanol benzoate, caprylic acid ester, capric acid ester or ricinoleic acid ester of alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecanol myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate; preferably, preferred synthetic esters R₁COOR₂(wherein R is₁Represents a straight-chain or branched fatty acid residue containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂Representing a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms) such that R₁And R₂≥20；

-and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from polybutenes, polyisobutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, polydecenes and/or hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutenes and hydrogenated polydecenes.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from: synthetic esters, e.g. purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, benzoic acid C₁₂To C₁₅Alkanol ester, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl dodecanol pivalate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, 2-octyl dodecanol stearate, 2-octyl dodecane erucic acidAlcohol esters, erucic acid alcohol esters, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecanol benzoate, caprylic acid ester, capric acid ester or ricinoleic acid ester of alcohols or polyols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecanol myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutenes, octyldodecanol pivalate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate and mixtures thereof.

Non-volatile phenyl silicone oil

The expression "phenyl silicone oil" means a silicone oil bearing at least one phenyl substituent.

These non-volatile phenyl silicone oils may be chosen from those also having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment or those not having a polydimethylsiloxane segment.

According to the invention, the polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponds to the following units:

-Si(CH₃)₂-O-。

thus, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil may be selected from:

a) phenyl silicone oils optionally having a polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula (II):

(II)

wherein the radicals R are monovalent or divalent and represent, independently of one another, methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one radical R represents phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three, such as at least four, at least five or at least six phenyl groups.

Phenyl silicone oils optionally having a polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula (III):

(III)

wherein the radicals R, independently of one another, represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one radical R represents phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (III) comprises at least three, such as at least four or at least five phenyl groups.

Mixtures of different of the aforementioned phenyl organopolysiloxane compounds can be used.

Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl-or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.

Among the compounds of formula (III), mention may be made more particularly of phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (III) without any polydimethylsiloxane fragment, in which at least 4 or at least 5 of the radicals R represent phenyl radicals and the remaining radicals represent methyl radicals.

Such non-volatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are sold in particular by Dow Corning under the designation PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3, 5-trimethyl-1, 1,3,5, 5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane), or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold by Dow Corning under the designation Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid may also be used.

They correspond in particular to the following formulae (IV) and (IV'):

(IV)

(IV’)

wherein Me represents a methyl group, and Ph represents a phenyl group.

Phenyl silicone oils having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula (V):

(V)

wherein Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents-CH₂-CH(CH₃)(Ph)。

Phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VI), and mixtures thereof:

(VI)

wherein:

- R₁to R₁₀Are independently of one another saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀The group of a hydrocarbon or a mixture of hydrocarbons,

-m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m + n + q is not 0.

Preferably, the sum m + n + q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m + n + p + q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.

Preferably, q is equal to 0.

More particularly, R₁To R₁₀Independently of one another, represents saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated), linear or branched C-based₁-C₃₀Hydrocarbon radicals, and particularly preferably saturated, based on C₁-C₂₀(particularly C)₁-C₁₈) Hydrocarbon radicals, or mono-or polycyclic C₆-C₁₄And in particular C₁₀-C₁₃Aryl, or aralkyl, the alkyl part of which is preferably C₁-C₃An alkyl group.

Preferably, R₁To R₁₀May each represent methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl, or phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl. R₁To R₁₀In particular, they may be identical and may additionally be methyl groups.

According to a more particular embodiment of formula (VI), mention may be made of:

i) phenyl silicone oils, optionally having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment, corresponding to the following formula (VII), and mixtures thereof Compound (a):

(VII)

wherein:

-R₁to R₆Are independently of one another saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀Hydrocarbon radical, preferably C₆-C₁₄Aryl, or aralkyl, the alkyl part of which is C₁-C₃An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,

-m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R₁To R₆Independently of one another represent a radical based on C₁-C₂₀(particularly C)₁-C₁₈) Hydrocarbon radicals, preferably alkyl, or C₆-C₁₄Aryl, which is monocyclic (preferably C)₆) Or polycyclic, and especially C₁₀-C₁₃Or aralkyl (preferably the aryl moiety is C)₆Aryl, the alkyl part being C₁-C₃Alkyl groups).

Preferably, R₁To R₆May each represent methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl, or phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl.

R₁To R₆In particular may be a phaseLikewise, and may additionally be methyl. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n =0 and/or p =0 or 1 is applicable to formula (VII).

According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment.

Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VII) wherein:

A) m =0 and n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 1 and 100

Preferably, R₁To R₆Is methyl.

According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from diphenyl polydimethylsiloxanes, such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt), KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175 cSt) or KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt).

p is between 1 and 100, the sum n + m is between 1 and 100, and n =0

These phenyl silicone oils optionally having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment more particularly correspond to the following formula (VIII):

(VIII)

wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents the group-OSiMe₃And p is 0 or between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that compound (VIII) is a non-volatile oil.

According to an embodiment of the invention, in the non-volatile phenylsilicone having at least one polydimethylsiloxane fragment, p is between 1 and 1000 and m more particularly is such that compound (VIII) is a non-volatile oil. It is possible to use, for example, the trimethylsiloxyphenyl polydimethylsiloxane sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker.

According to an embodiment of the non-volatile phenylsilicone without polydimethylsiloxane segment, p is equal to 0 and m is between 1 and 1000 and in particular such that compound (VIII) is a non-volatile oil.

For example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrimethylsiloxane sold in particular under the designation Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556) may be used.

Non-volatile phenyl silicone oils having no polydimethylsiloxane fragment corresponding to the following formula (IX),and mixtures thereof:

(IX)

wherein:

-R is, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C-base₁-C₃₀Hydrocarbon radicals, preferably R being C₁-C₃₀Alkyl, preferably C₆-C₁₄Aryl, or aralkyl, the alkyl part of which is C₁-C₃An alkyl group, a carboxyl group,

-m and n are, independently of each other, an integer between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R represents, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated), linear or branched C-base₁-C₃₀Hydrocarbon radicals, and particularly preferably saturated, C-based₁-C₂₀(particularly C)₁-C₁₈And more particularly C₄-C₁₀) Hydrocarbon radicals, monocyclic or polycyclic C₆-C₁₄And in particular C₁₀-C₁₃Aryl, or aralkyl, preferably with the aryl part being C₆Aryl and alkyl moiety is C₁-C₃An alkyl group.

Preferably, the radicals R may each represent methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl, or phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl.

The radicals R may in particular be identical and may additionally be methyl.

Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n =0 and/or p =0 or 1 is applicable to formula (IX).

According to a preferred embodiment, in formula (IX), n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n + m is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R is methyl.

According to one embodiment, a material having a thickness of between 5 mm at 25 ℃ may be used²S and 1500 mm²A viscosity of between/s (i.e. 5 cSt to 1500 cSt) and preferably of between 5 mm²S and 1000 mm²Phenyl silicone oils of formula (IX) with a viscosity between/s (i.e. 5 cSt to 1000 cSt).

According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones (when n = 0), such as DC556 (22.5 cSt) from Dow Corning, or from diphenylsilanyloxyphenyl trimethicones oils (when m and n are between 1 and 100), such as KF56 a from Shin Etsu, or sildione 70663V30 oil (28 cSt) from Rh ô ne-Poulenc. The values in parentheses represent the viscosity at 25 ℃.

Phenyl silicone oils, optionally having at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment, corresponding to the formula and mixtures thereof An object:

(X)

wherein:

R₁、R₂、R₅and R₆Which may be identical or different, are alkyl radicals having 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃and R₄Which may be identical or different, are alkyl radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or aryl radicals (preferably C)₆-C₁₄) Provided that R is₃And R₄At least one of which is a phenyl group,

x is an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group or a vinyl group,

n and p are integers greater than or equal to 1, selected to give the oil a weight-average molecular weight of less than 200000 g/mol, preferably less than 150000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100000 g/mol.

And mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises both a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and a non-volatile phenyl silicone oil.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises both: a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene, octyldodecanol pivalate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, and mixtures thereof; and a non-volatile phenyl silicone oil chosen from phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (II) without any polydimethylsiloxane fragment, in which formula (II) at least 4 or at least 5 groups R represent phenyl groups, the remaining groups representing methyl groups, i.e. phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (III) below without polydimethylsiloxane fragment:

(III)

wherein at least 3, at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent phenyl radicals and the remaining radicals R represent methyl radicals,

more preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane.

The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or the phenyl silicone oil is present in a total content ranging from 30% to 70% by weight, in particular from 35% to 65% by weight and preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Based on hydrocarbonsOf (2) a resin

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based resin.

Preferably, the resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10000 g/mol, in particular in the range from 250 g/mol to 5000 g/mol, better still less than or equal to 2000 g/mol, in particular in the range from 250 g/mol to 2000 g/mol and even in the range from 250 g/mol to 1000 g/mol.

The number average molecular weight (Mn) was determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometer).

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based resins are chosen from low molecular weight polymers, which can be classified according to the type of monomer they contain:

-indene hydrocarbon-based resins, preferably resins derived, for example, from the polymerization of a major portion of indene monomer and a minor portion of a monomer selected from styrene, methylindene and methylstyrene, and mixtures thereof. These resins may optionally be hydrogenated. These resins may have a molecular weight in the range of 290 g/mol to 1150 g/mol.

Examples of indene resins which may be mentioned include those sold under the designation Escorez 7105 by the company Exxon chem, under the designations Nevchem 100 and Nevex 100 by the company Neville chem, under the designation Norsolene S105 by the company Sartomer, under the designation Picco 6100 by the company Hercules and under the designation Resinill by the company Resinill Corp, or hydrogenated indene/methylstyrene/styrene copolymers sold under the name "Regalite" by the company Eastman Chemical, in particular Regalite R1100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 Hydrocarbon Resin and Regalite R1125 Hydrocarbon Resin;

aliphatic pentadiene resins, such as those derived from the polymerization of predominantly 1, 3-pentadiene (trans-or cis-piperylene) monomers and secondary monomers selected from isoprene, butene, 2-methyl-2-butene, pentene and 1, 4-pentadiene, and mixtures thereof. These resins may have a molecular weight in the range of 1000 g/mol to 2500 g/mol.

Such 1, 3-pentadiene resins are sold, for example, by the company Eastman Chemical under the designation Piccotac 95, by the company Exxon Chemicals under the designation Escorez 1304, by the company Neville chem. under the designation Nevtac 100 or by the company Goodyear under the designation Wingtack 95;

mixed resins of pentadiene and indene derived from the polymerization of a mixture of pentadiene and indene monomers such as those described above, for example the resins sold under the reference Escorez 2101 by the company Exxon Chemicals, under the reference Nevpene 9500 by the company Neville chem, under the reference Hercotac 1148 by the company Hercules, under the reference Norsolene A100 by the company Sartomer and under the references Wingtack 86, Wingtack Extra and Wingtack Plus by the company Goodyear;

diene resins of cyclopentadiene dimers, for example those derived from the polymerization of a first monomer chosen from indene and styrene and of a second monomer chosen from cyclopentadiene dimers, for example dicyclopentadiene, methyldicyclopentadiene and other pentadiene dimers, and mixtures thereof. These resins generally have a molecular weight in the range of 500 g/mol to 800 g/mol, such as those sold under the designation Betaprene BR 100 by Arizona Chemical Co., Ltd, under the designations Neville LX-685 125 and Neville LX-1000 by Neville chem., Ltd, Piccodine 2215 by Hercules, Petro-Rez 200 by Lawter, or Resinall Corp. Ltd, Resinall 760;

diene resins of isoprene dimers, such as terpene resins derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer chosen from a-pinene, β -pinene and limonene, and mixtures thereof. These resins may have a molecular weight in the range of 300 g/mol to 2000 g/mol. Such resins are sold, for example, by Hercules under the names Piccolyte A115 and S125 or by Arizona Chem under the names Zonarez 7100 or Zonatec 105 Lite.

Mention may also be made of certain modified resins, such as hydrogenated resins, for example those sold under the name Eastotac C6-C20 Polyolefin by the company Eastman Chemical Co, under the name Estcore C5300 by the company Exxon Chemicals, or the resins Nevillac Hard or Nevroz sold by the company Neville Chem, the resins Piccofyn A-100, Piccotex 100 or Piccovar AP25 sold by the company Hercules, or the resins SP-553 sold by the company Schenectady Chemical Co.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based resin is selected from the group consisting of indene hydrocarbon-based resins, aliphatic pentadiene resins, mixed resins of pentadiene and indene, diene resins of cyclopentadiene dimers and diene resins of isoprene dimers, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one compound chosen from hydrocarbon-based resins as described above, in particular indene hydrocarbon-based resins and aliphatic pentadiene resins, or mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based resin is selected from indene hydrocarbon-based resins.

According to a preferred embodiment, the resin is chosen from indene/methylstyrene/hydrogenated styrene copolymers.

In particular, indene/methylstyrene/hydrogenated styrene copolymers may be used, such as those sold under the name Regalite by Eastman Chemical company, for example Regalite R1100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R-7100, Regalite R1010 Hydrocarbon Resin and Regalite R1125 Hydrocarbon Resin.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based resin according to the invention is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 15% by weight and preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

High viscosity esters

By high viscosity is meant that the ester has a viscosity of at least 10000 cps at room temperature.

Preferred examples of such esters include, but are not limited to, C for sugars and related materials₁-C₃₀Monoesters and polyesters. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the component acid and sugar, these esters may be in liquid form or solid form at room temperature. Suitable liquid esters include, but are not limited to: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of (unsaturated) soybean oil fatty acids, mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleateSorbitol hexa-esters of unsaturated soya fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Suitable solid esters may include, but are not limited to: sorbitol hexa-ester wherein the carboxylate moieties are palmitoleate and arachidic acid esters in a 1:2 molar ratio; octaesters of raffinose in which the carboxylate moiety is linoleate and behenate in a 1:3 molar ratio; heptaesters of maltose wherein the esterified carboxylic acid moiety is sunflower oil fatty acid and lignoceric acid ester in a 3:4 molar ratio; octaesters of sucrose in which the esterified carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a 2:6 molar ratio; and octaesters of sucrose in which the esterified carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate, and behenate in a 1:3:4 molar ratio. In one embodiment, the ester is a sucrose polyester, wherein the degree of esterification is from 7 to 8, and wherein the fatty acid moiety is C₁₈Mono-and/or di-unsaturated and behenic acid (behenic), unsaturated compounds: the molar ratio of behenic acid is 1:7 to 3: 5. In another embodiment, the sugar polyester is an octaester of sucrose in which there are about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule. Other materials may include cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid esters of sucrose.

Preferred high viscosity esters for use in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of C of sucrose₂-C₆A carboxylic acid ester. More particularly, C of sucrose₂-C₆The carboxylic acid ester is selected from the group consisting of mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose, and in particular sucrose hexa (2-methylpropionate) diacetate, such as the product sold by Eastman Chemical under the name Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher (INCI name: sucrose acetate isobutyrate), which is at 30^oHas a viscosity of about 100000 cps at C and 20^oC has a refractive index of about 1.5.

The at least one high viscosity ester is advantageously present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Wax

Waxes considered in the context of the present invention are generally lipophilic compounds which are solid at room temperature (25 ℃), have a solid/liquid reversible state change, have a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ℃, preferably greater than or equal to 40 ℃, which may be up to 200 ℃, and in particular up to 120 ℃.

Waxes useful in the present invention include waxes of animal origin, waxes of vegetable origin, waxes of mineral origin, synthetic waxes, and various fractions of waxes of natural origin.

Animal waxes include, but are not limited to, beeswax, spermaceti wax, lanolin derivatives, and chinese insect wax. Vegetable waxes include, but are not limited to, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax (birk fiber wax), sugar cane wax, cocoa butter, japan wax, and sumac wax. Mineral waxes include, but are not limited to, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite (ozokerite), petrolatum, and ceresine (ceresine). Synthetic waxes include, but are not limited to, polyethylene homopolymer and copolymer waxes, synthetic beeswax, waxes obtained from Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and silicone waxes.

Also used are compounds having a linear or branched C chain by catalytic hydrogenation₈-C₃₂Fatty chain animal or vegetable oils, fatty esters and glycerides.

Waxes also include silicone waxes, among which mention may be made of polymethylsiloxane alkyl, alkoxy and/or ester. The wax may be in the form of a stable dispersion of colloidal wax particles according to known methods (e.g. "microelectronics and Practice", ed. l.m. prince, Academic Press (1977), pages 21-32). Montan wax (lignate wax) may also be used.

Waxes useful in compositions according to the present invention can provide one or more of the following properties, including but not limited to filling, texture, and a degree of water repellency. The wax should not significantly reduce the gloss properties of the glossy film former (if present).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the waxes used in the present invention are selected from synthetic waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, or mixtures thereof.

The wax may be present in an amount ranging from 5 to 30 wt%, preferably from 7 to 20 wt%, more preferably from 8 to 15 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Coloring agent

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "colorant" means a compound capable of producing a coloured optical effect when formulated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.

Colorants contemplated in the context of the present invention may be selected from water-soluble or water-insoluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic colorants, as well as materials having an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

Water-soluble dyes

The water-soluble colorants used according to the invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic, compound which is soluble in the aqueous phase or water-miscible solvent and which is capable of imparting color. In particular, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water to a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/l (giving rise to a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, colored or colorless solution), measured at 25 ℃. This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/l.

As water-soluble dyes suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, such as FD & C Red 4(CI: 14700), DC Red 6(Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22(CI: 45380), DC Red 28(CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30(CI: 73360), DC Red 33(CI: 17200), DC Orange 4(CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5(CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6(CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8(CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3(CI: 42053), DC Green 5(CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1(CI: 42090).

As non-limiting illustrations of the sources of water-soluble colorants that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and turmeric.

Thus, water-soluble colorants suitable for use in the present invention are, inter alia, carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanins, lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, ranunculin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, taxol, canthaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

They may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, the disodium salt of tartrazine, and the disodium salt of fuchsin.

Some of these water-soluble colorants are specifically approved for food use. Representatives of these dyes which may be mentioned include more particularly the carotenoid dyes mentioned under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

Pigment (I)

The term "pigment" is understood to mean a white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particle that is insoluble in the liquid organic phase and is intended to color and/or opacify the composition and/or the deposit produced with the composition.

The pigments may be selected from inorganic pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on inorganic and/or organic materials).

The pigments may be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lakes and pigments with optical effect, such as goniochromatic pigments and nacres.

The inorganic pigment may be selected from the group consisting of metal oxide pigments, chromium oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, chromium hydroxide, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder, and mixtures thereof.

Organic lakes are organic pigments formed from a dye attached to a substrate.

Lakes (which are also known as organic pigments) may be selected from the following materials and mixtures thereof:

-cochineal red;

organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluoran dyes.

Among the organic pigments, mention may in particular be made of those known under the following names: d & C Blue number 4, D & C Brown number 1, D & C Green number 5, D & C Green number 6, D & C Orange number 4, D & C Orange number 5, D & C Orange number 10, D & C Orange number 11, D & C Red number 6, D & C Red number 7, D & C Red number 17, D & C Red number 21, D & C Red number 22, D & C Red number 27, D & C Red number 28, D & C Red number 30, D & C Red number 31, D & C Red number 33, D & C Red number 34, D & C Red number 36, D & C Violet number 2, Y & C Brown number 7, D & C Red number 8, D & C Red number 11, D & C Red number 1, D & C number 11, D & C Red number 1, D & C Red number 2, Y & C Red number 7, Y & C Red number 11, C Red number 2, Y & C Red number 7, Y & C number 11, Y & C number 2, Y & C number 3, Y & C number 11, Y & C number 3, Y, FD & C Green number 3, FD & C Red number 40, FD & C Yellow number 5, FD & C Yellow number 6;

the organic lake may be an insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium salt of an acid dye such as an azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dye, which may contain at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid group.

The organic lake may also be supported on an organic carrier such as, for example, rosin or aluminum benzoate.

Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: d & C Red number 2 aluminum lake, D & C Red number 3 aluminum lake, D & C Red number 4 aluminum lake, D & C Red number 6 barium/strontium lake, D & C Red number 6 potassium lake, D & C Red number 7 aluminum lake, D & C Red number 7 barium lake, D & C Red number 7 calcium/strontium lake, D & C Red number 7 zirconium lake, D & C Red number 8 sodium lake, D & C Red number 9 aluminum lake, D & C Red number 9 barium lake, D & C Red number 9 zirconium lake, D & C Red number 9 barium lake, D & C Red & D number 9 zirconium lake, D & C number 9 barium lake, D & C number 9 zirconium lake, D & C number 10 barium lake, D & C Red number 6 barium lake, D & C Red number 7 calcium/strontium lake, D & C number 7 calcium, D & C number 9 zirconium, D & C number 9/strontium lake, D & C number 9 zirconium, D & C number 9/C number 3 aluminum lake, D & C number 9 and D & C number 9 calcium, D &, D & C Red 19 aluminum lake, D & C Red 19 barium lake, D & C Red 19 zirconium lake, D & C Red 21 aluminum lake, D & C Red 21 zirconium lake, D & C Red 22 aluminum lake, D & C Red 27 aluminum/titanium/zirconium lake, D & C Red 27 barium lake, D & C Red 27 calcium lake, D & C Red 27 zirconium lake, D & C Red 28 aluminum lake, D & C Red 30 lake, D & C Red 31 calcium lake, D & C Red 33 aluminum lake, D & C Red 34 calcium lake, D & C Red 36 aluminum lake, D & C Red 40 aluminum lake, D & C Red 3 aluminum lake, D & C No. 1 aluminum lake, D & C No. 27 aluminum lake, D & C No. 34 calcium lake, D & C No. 36 aluminum lake, D & C Red & C No. 3 aluminum lake, D & C Red 3 aluminum lake, D & C No. 1 aluminum lake, D & C3 aluminum lake, D & C No. 2 aluminum lake, D & C3, D & C Orange number 4 aluminum lake, D & C Orange number 5 zirconium lake, D & C Orange number 10 aluminum lake, D & C Orange number 17 barium lake, D & C Yellow number 5 aluminum lake, D & C Yellow number 5 zirconium lake, D & C Yellow number 6 aluminum lake, D & C Yellow number 7 zirconium lake, D & C Yellow number 10 aluminum lake, FD & C number 1 aluminum lake, FD & C Red number 4 aluminum lake, FD & C Red number 40 aluminum lake, FD & C Yellow number 5 aluminum lake, and FD & C Yellow number 6 aluminum lake.

Mention may also be made of liposoluble dyes, such as, for example, sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β -carotene, soybean oil, sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline Yellow.

The chemicals corresponding to each of The organic colorants cited above are mentioned in The publication "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook)" published by The society for cosmetics, Toiletries and perfumes, "1997 edition, pages 371 to 386 and pages 524 to 528 (The contents of which are incorporated by reference into The present patent application).

The pigment may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicones such as polymethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanes, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamic acid, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and amino acids; an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acyl amino acid may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The term "alkyl" mentioned in the above compounds means especially an alkyl group containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobically treated pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-1086683.

Mother-of-pearl

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "nacres" refers to coloured particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or synthetic, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

Examples of nacres which may be mentioned include pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes, in particular of the type mentioned above, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic colorants are superimposed.

The nacres can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper colour or hue.

As an illustration of nacres that can be incorporated as interference pigments in the first composition, mention may be made of the golden nacres sold in particular by the company BASF under the names Brilliant Gold 212g (timca), Gold 222c (cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (timca) and Monarch Gold 233x (cloisonne); bronze-colored nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisone) and by the company Merck under the names Page Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Nu-anticque cooper 340xb (cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chroma-lite); copper-coloured mother-of-pearl sold in particular under the name Copper 340a (timica) by BASF; red nacre sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow mother-of-pearl sold in particular under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite) by BASF corporation; mother-of-pearl gold-colored (tinted red) sold in particular under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone) by BASF; pink nacre, in particular sold under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone) by BASF; in particular, gold-black (gold-colored black) nacres sold under the name nuanti blue 240 ab (mica) by BASF, blue nacres sold under the name Matte blue (17433) (micron) by Merck, silvery-colored (Silver-colored) nacres sold under the name Xirona Silver by Merck, and greenish-pink orange (gold-green pink-orange) nacres sold under the name Indian (Xirona) by Merck, and mixtures thereof.

Goniochromatic pigments

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "goniochromatic pigments" refers to the following pigments: when the composition is applied on a support, it makes it possible to obtain, for a light incidence angle of 45 °, a color locus (colour locus) corresponding to a variation Dh ° of a hue angle h ° of at least 20 ° in the a × b plane of the CIE 1976 chromaticity space, when the viewing angle varies between 0 ° and 80 ° with respect to the normal.

The color locus can be measured, for example, using an Instrument Systems brand spectroscopic Goniometer (spectro-ionometer) under the designation GON 360 Goniometer after the composition has been applied in fluid form to a thickness of 300 μm on an Erichsen brand control card under the designation Typ 24/5 using an automated applicator, on the black background of the card.

Goniochromatic pigments may be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal colorants.

In the case of a multilayer structure, it may comprise, for example, at least two layers, each layer being made, for example, of at least one material selected from the following materials: MgF₂、CeF₃、ZnS、ZnSe、Si、SiO₂、Ge、Te、Fe₂O₃、Pt、Va、Al₂O₃、MgO、Y₃O₃、S₂O₃、SiO、HfO₂、ZrO₂、CeO₂、Nb₂O₅、Ta₂O₅、TiO₂、Ag、Al、Au、Cu、Rb、Ti、Ta、W、Zn、MoS₂Cryolite, alloys and polymers, and combinations thereof.

The multilayer structure may or may not have symmetry in the chemistry of the stacked layers with respect to the central layer.

Different effects are obtained depending on the thickness and properties of the various layers.

Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures are, for example, the following structures: fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃Pigments having this structure are sold under the name Sicopearl by BASF corporation; MoS₂/SiO₂Mica oxide/SiO₂/MoS₂；Fe₂O₃/SiO₂Mica oxide/SiO₂/Fe₂O₃；TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂And TiO₂/Al₂O₃/TiO₂Pigments having these structures are sold under the name Xirona by Merck.

Liquid crystal colorants include, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesogenic groups are grafted. Examples of liquid crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include, for example, those sold by the company Chenix and also by the company Wacker under the name Helicone^®Those sold by HC.

Also useful goniochromatic pigments include certain nacres, pigments effective on synthetic substrates (especially substrates such as alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide or aluminum), or interference flakes obtained from a film of poly (terephthalate).

As non-limiting examples of goniochromatic pigments, mention may be made in particular of Sunshine pigments sold by SunChemicals, Cosmicolor Celeste from Toyo aluminum K.K., Xirona particles from Merck, and Reflecks MultiDimensions from BASF, individually or in mixtures.

Optionally, these particles may contain or be coated with a fluorescent whitening agent (or organic white fluorescent substance).

Optical brighteners are compounds which are well known to the person skilled in the art. Such compounds are described in "Fluorescent Whitening Agent, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer" Vol.11, p.227-241, fourth edition, 1994, Wiley.

Their use in cosmetics makes particular use of the fact that: they include compounds with fluorescent properties that absorb in the ultraviolet region (absorption maximum at wavelengths less than 400 nm) and re-emit energy by fluorescence at wavelengths between 380 nm and 830 nm. They may be more particularly defined as compounds which absorb substantially in the UVA region between 300 nm and 390 nm and re-emit substantially between 400 nm and 525 nm. Its whitening effect is more particularly based on the emission of energy between 400 nm and 480 nm, which corresponds to the emission of the blue part of the visible region, which helps to visually whiten the skin when this emission occurs on the skin.

Particularly known optical brighteners include stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbene and triazinylstilbene, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarin and aminocoumarin, oxazoles, benzoxazoles, imidazoles, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, pyrene derivatives, porphyrin derivatives and mixtures thereof.

The optical brighteners which can be used can also be in the form of copolymers grafted with optical brightener groups, for example copolymers of acrylates and/or methacrylates, as described in application FR 9910942.

According to a preferred embodiment, the colorant used in the present invention is selected from the group consisting of metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the colorant used in the present invention is selected from titanium dioxide, Yellow 6 lake, Red 7, Blue 1 lake, or mixtures thereof.

The colorant may be present in an amount ranging from 3 to 20 wt%, preferably from 5 to 16 wt%, more preferably from 6 to 12 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additive agent

In a particular embodiment, the solid anhydrous composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive commonly used in the field under consideration. In particular, the additive is selected from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickeners, dispersants, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, antimicrobials, additional cosmetic active agents such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectants, and mixtures thereof.

It is a matter of routine operation for the person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:

a) at least one wax selected from synthetic waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, or mixtures thereof;

b) at least one colorant selected from the group consisting of metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof;

c) 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I):

(I)

wherein:

x is an alkyl, hydroxyl or amine group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

n and p are integers selected to have fluid compounds, particularly fluid compounds having a viscosity between 100 centistokes (cSt) and 1000 cSt at 25 ℃;

d) at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutenes, octyldodecanol pivalate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate and at least one phenyl silicone oil chosen from phenyl silicone oils without polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to formula (III) below:

(III)

wherein at least 3, at least 4 or at least 5 groups R represent phenyl groups and the remaining groups R represent methyl groups, more preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane; and

e) at least one resin based on aliphatic hydrocarbons, in particular hydrogenated indene/methylstyrene/styrene copolymers, and at least one C chosen from sucrose₂-C₆Carboxylic acid esters, in particular high-viscosity esters of sucrose acetate isobutyrate.

Galenic form

The compositions of the present invention are suitable for use as skin care, make-up or cosmetic treatment products. More particularly, the compositions of the present invention are in the form of cosmetic products, such as lipsticks and the like.

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.

As used herein, the terms "between (at) … …" and "ranging from … …" are to be understood as including the limits.

The invention also relates to a method for caring for/making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips, by applying a solid anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.

Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs.

The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the invention. The percentages are by weight.

Examples

Formulation examples

A lipstick was prepared having the following formulation (unless otherwise stated, the contents are expressed as weight percent active materials):

preparation procedure

A lipstick was prepared according to the following steps:

i) mixing all the components at 93 ℃, and stirring the mixture by an IKA Blender Euro-ST P CV S25 model at 300 r/min until uniform;

ii) pouring the homogenized mixture into a lipstick mold at 93 ℃, placing the mixture in a mold at 25 ℃ until curing; and

iii) releasing the solid mixture from the lipstick mold.

Evaluation of examples

The hardness of the lipstick, the stability of the shape of the lipstick, the application properties of the lipstick, the color transfer after applying the lipstick, the color durability, the non-stick feeling and the non-dry feeling were evaluated.

Hardness was evaluated according to the procedure described previously.

Shape stability was evaluated using a collision test by the following steps:

heating the composition to 38 ℃ and keeping the temperature for 24 hours;

the composition is applied to the lips at a heated temperature.

The smearing performance was evaluated by 5 experts by the following steps:

the application of the composition was repeated three times on the same area of the forearm using the same force;

weighing the weight loss of the composition;

measuring the size of the area on the forearm to which the composition is applied;

the weight loss per square centimeter was calculated.

The non-stick and non-dry feel after application and the color durability after application were evaluated by 5 experts by the following steps:

first, the compositions according to the inventive and comparative examples were repeatedly applied to the same area of the lips using the same force three times, respectively;

color transfer was evaluated by 5 experts by the following steps:

first, the compositions according to the inventive and comparative examples were repeatedly applied to the same area of the lips using the same force three times, respectively; wait 5 minutes, then touch the paper towel, check the color transfer on the paper towel. The less the color transfer, the better.

Color durability was evaluated by 5 experts by the following steps:

first, the compositions according to the inventive and comparative examples were repeatedly applied to the same area of the lips using the same force three times, respectively; the makeup was held for 2h, and then the color intensity on the lips was checked. The higher the color intensity, the better.

The above properties are then given an evaluation or score by an expert.

5: is very good;

4: the method is basically good;

3: acceptable;

2: slightly poor and unacceptable;

1: poor, unacceptable.

The results are summarized in table 1 below:

table 1: properties of inventive composition and comparative example

It was observed that the compositions according to inventive examples 1-3 exhibited very low color transfer and improved color, as well as good feel, after application, while the compositions according to comparative examples 1 and 2 exhibited very high color transfer. Based on the evaluation results listed above, the inventors found that the composition according to the present invention provides a solid anhydrous composition having desired hardness, color transfer and good in-use properties including spreadability, feeling after application.

Claims

1. A solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:

c) at least one hydrocarbon-based resin and at least one high viscosity ester.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises at least one wax and/or at least one colorant.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said at least one non-phenyl silicone oil is chosen from silicones of formula (I):

(I)

wherein:

R₃and R₄Together or separately an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, ethyleneA group, an amine group or a hydroxyl group,

x is an alkyl, hydroxyl or amine group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

n and p are integers selected to have a fluid compound, particularly a fluid compound having a viscosity between 100 centistokes (cSt) and 1000 cSt at 25 ℃.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polydecenes and synthetic esters, such as purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C-benzoic acid₁₂To C₁₅Alkanol ester, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecanol pivalate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, 2-octyldodecanol stearate, 2-octyldodecanol erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecanol benzoate, caprylic acid ester, capric acid ester or ricinoleic acid ester of an alcohol or polyol, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecanol myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils without polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to formula (II) below:

(III)

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the at least one hydrocarbon-based resin is chosen from aliphatic hydrocarbon-based resins, in particular hydrogenated indene/methylstyrene/styrene copolymers.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the at least one high viscosity ester is chosen from the group consisting of C of sucrose₂-C₆Carboxylic acid esters, particularly mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that said at least one wax is chosen from animal waxes, such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives and Chinese insect wax; vegetable waxes such as rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, cocoa butter, japan wax, and sumac wax; mineral waxes such as montan wax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, petrolatum, and ceresin; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene homopolymer and copolymer waxes, synthetic beeswax, waxes obtained from Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and silicone waxes.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 8, characterized in that the at least one colorant is chosen from metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 9, characterized in that the at least one wax is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 7% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 8% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 10, characterized in that the at least one colouring agent is present in an amount ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 16% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that said at least one non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 25% by weight, preferably from 15% to 22% by weight, more preferably from 18% to 21% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or phenyl silicone oil is present in a total content ranging from 30% to 70% by weight, in particular from 35% to 65% by weight and preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A solid anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:

a) at least one wax selected from synthetic waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes or mixtures thereof;

(I)

wherein:

x is an alkyl, hydroxyl or amine group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

n and p are integers selected to have a fluid compound, particularly a fluid compound having a viscosity between 100 centistokes (cSt) and 1000 cSt at 25 ℃;

(III)

more preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane; and

e) at least one resin based on aliphatic hydrocarbons, in particular hydrogenated indene/methylstyrene/styrene copolymers, and at least one C chosen from sucrose₂-C₆Carboxylic acid esters, particularly high viscosity esters of mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose.

15. A method for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips, by applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.