CN116005316A - Weaving method of three-warp-yarn hank dark fescue - Google Patents
Weaving method of three-warp-yarn hank dark fescue Download PDFInfo
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- CN116005316A CN116005316A CN202211671669.4A CN202211671669A CN116005316A CN 116005316 A CN116005316 A CN 116005316A CN 202211671669 A CN202211671669 A CN 202211671669A CN 116005316 A CN116005316 A CN 116005316A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a weaving method of a three-warp-yarn leno-weave pattern, when weaving a weave pattern in the three-warp-weave pattern, a first weft yarn controls the twisting of a first warp yarn, a second warp yarn and a third warp yarn through a first connecting rod, a second weft yarn drives a heddle to lift warp yarns with different rules through a control pattern on a pattern loom, and when the pattern is lifted, the heddle is lifted through the second heddle to lift the third warp yarn to form a plain weave pattern; when the blank area of the ground part is lifted, the heddle lifts the first warp yarn and the third warp yarn through the first heddle and the second heddle simultaneously to form a three-warp leno; the second weft yarn is simultaneously provided with a re-plain weave and a three-warp hank weave to form a three-warp hank dark-colored-roman structure; in the process of picking the pattern, the dark pattern part and the blank area of the ground part are respectively picked, and when the dark pattern part is picked, all patterns are two groups, and each pattern picks up only the second warp yarn; when the blank area of the ground part is picked, each point of the blank area is also double, and all warps of the blank area are picked up.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile, and particularly relates to a method for weaving three-channel hank-up leno.
Background
The three-warp hank-shaped dark-colored festooned yarn is an ancient high-grade silk weaving variety, mainly originates from Tang Song Shiqi, wherein the representative three-warp hank-shaped dark-colored festooned yarn is difficult to recover, and the fabric is often used for repairing ancient silk weaving cultural relics and special fabric requirements. The three-warp leno is one of varieties of brocade leno, wherein the conventional three-warp leno is similar to the two-warp leno, and is twisted by one warp yarn and two other warp yarns in a group, so that the fabric structure and the weaving method are the same as those of the two-warp leno principle. The typical three-warp-stranding-type warp is formed by twisting three warp yarns mutually, and the structure of the three-warp-stranding-type warp yarn is completely different from that of two-warp-stranding-type warp yarns, so that the weaving technology has been lost for century. The existing three-warp-twist fabric is mostly hidden in each big museum, wherein the Shanghai museum is a "Song Dai twined jacquard brown-yellow jersey", the fabric on the clothes is three-warp-twist jersey, and the three-warp-twist jersey needs to be researched and restored for better external display and research of the technology because of older year bottoms.
In the prior art, the three-warp hank Luo Zhiji is one of leno weaving machines, and the whole structure of the weaving machine is similar to that of a conventional two-warp hank loom, but the current leno weaving machine can only realize that two warp yarns are twisted with each other to form a two-warp hank structure; or by twisting one warp yarn with two other warp yarns, the fabric structure and weaving method are the same as those of the two warp yarns Luo Yuanli, but have essential differences from the three warp yarns that need to be recovered.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to: the invention aims to provide a weaving method of three-warp-knitting hank fescue.
The technical scheme is as follows: according to the weaving method of the three-warp-yarn leno-weave dark-pattern in the three-warp-weave dark-pattern weave, the first weft yarns control the first warp yarns, the second warp yarns and the third warp yarns to twist through the first connecting rod, the second weft yarns drive the heddles to lift warp yarns with different rules through the control pattern on the pattern loom, and the heddles are lifted through the second heddles to form a heavy plain weave when the dark-pattern weave is proposed; when the blank area of the ground part is lifted, the heddle lifts the first warp yarn and the third warp yarn through the first heddle and the second heddle simultaneously to form a three-warp leno; the second weft yarn is simultaneously provided with a re-plain weave and a three-warp hank weave to form a three-warp hank dark-colored-roman structure; in the process of picking the pattern, the dark pattern part and the blank area of the ground part are respectively picked, and when the dark pattern part is picked, all patterns are two groups, and each pattern picks up only the second warp yarn; when the blank area of the ground part is picked, each point of the blank area is also double, and all warps of the blank area are picked up.
The selected warp yarns and weft yarns are mulberry silk single-strand 40D raw silk. The fabric design is designed with proper density to achieve the effect of showing patterns when weaving the heavy plain weave and the effect of penetrating when twisting. The specification of the mulberry silk is 20D and 40D generally, but the warp yarns and the weft yarns are all single-strand mulberry silk 40D raw silk, so that warp yarns are not easy to break due to the fact that the warp yarns are twisted mutually in the weaving process, and the tension requirement is high after the warp yarns are rubbed.
The loom adopted by the method comprises a frame, a warp let-off device and a coiling device, wherein the warp let-off device and the coiling device are respectively arranged at two ends of the frame, and the warp let-off device is connected with the coiling device through total warp yarns; the frame is sequentially provided with a reed frame for beating up, a combined twisting device for twisting the total warp and a leno heddle for controlling the total warp to rise and fall, wherein the combined twisting device is connected with a foot bamboo, and the bottom of the leno heddle is connected with a foot; the total warp yarn is provided with two groups, and each group comprises a first warp yarn, a second warp yarn and a third warp yarn; the combined twisting device comprises a doup heddle connected with a first warp thread and a lifting heddle connected with a second warp thread and a third warp thread, the doup heddle comprises a first doup heddle and a second doup heddle, the first doup heddle is connected with the first warp thread, and the second doup heddle is connected with the third warp thread.
The leno heddle comprises a frame body, and soft heddles, a first fixed heddle and a first half heddle which are symmetrically arranged on the frame body, wherein the first fixed heddle and the first half heddle are connected to form a retaining ring, the soft heddle passes through the two retaining rings, a first warp thread passes through the retaining rings on the left side and the right side, and a second warp thread and a third warp thread pass through the upper part of the soft heddle.
The heald lifting device comprises two groups of first heald lifting pieces and two groups of second heald lifting pieces, wherein the second fixed healds and second half healds are arranged on the heald lifting pieces, second retaining rings are arranged at the connecting points of the second fixed healds and the second half healds, and second warp threads and third warp threads respectively penetrate through the second retaining rings on the first heald lifting pieces and the second heald lifting pieces on the same side.
The four healds are used for cooperating with the doup heddles to move together, the doup heddles control one warp yarn to form twisting, wherein the two healds control the warp yarn to lift and the doup heddles to form three warp yarn twisting, and finally the fabric is interwoven into a three-warp doup-type weave.
The foot bamboo comprises a first connecting rod and a second connecting rod, wherein the first connecting rod is in transmission connection with one heald lifting side and is also in transmission connection with two groups of first heald lifting pieces respectively; the second connecting rod is in transmission connection with the other side of the heald lifting device and is also in transmission connection with two groups of second heald lifting pieces respectively.
Wherein the length of the soft heald is at least 54cm, the length of the first fixed heald is at least 18cm, and the length of the first half heald is at least 26cm.
The beneficial effects are that: compared with the prior art, the invention has the following remarkable advantages: the invention relates to a three-warp leno weave fabric structure, which is realized by combining a loom leno heddle and a loom leno heddle, and respectively controlling different warp movements through the leno heddle, a lifting heddle and a leno heddle so as to meet the structural requirement of the fabric.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a loom used in the weaving method of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a combination twisting device;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the connection of leno heddles, lifting heddles and warp threads;
FIG. 4 is a three-dimensional view of the leno heddle, the lifting heddle and the warp thread connection;
FIG. 5 is a schematic drawing of a schematic design drawn according to the warp and weft ratio of a loom, wherein the pattern picking-up process is a schematic drawing of picking up dark pattern parts and blank areas of a ground part respectively according to the process requirements;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the pattern of the raised pattern and the blank area of the ground portion;
FIG. 7 is a diagram of the organization of three-channel hank-up fescue.
Detailed Description
As shown in fig. 1 to 6, the weaving method of the three-warp-yarn hank festooned machine of the invention adopts a loom which comprises a frame 1, a warp feeding device 3 and a coiling device 2 which are respectively arranged at two ends of the frame 1, wherein the warp feeding device 3 is connected with the coiling device 2 through a total warp 7; the frame 1 is provided with a reed frame 8 for beating up, a combined twisting device 5 for twisting the total warp 7 and a heddle 6 for controlling the total warp 7 to rise and fall in sequence between the warp let-off device 3 and the coiling device 2, the combined twisting device 5 is connected with a foot bamboo 4, and the bottom of the heddle 6 is connected with a foot 9; the total warp yarn 7 is provided with two groups, each group comprises a first warp yarn 71, a second warp yarn 72 and a third warp yarn 73; the combined twisting device 5 comprises a leno heddle 51 connected to a first warp thread 71 and a lifting heddle 52 connected to a second warp thread 72 and a third warp thread 73, the heddle 6 comprising a first heddle 61 and a second heddle 62, the first heddle 61 being connected to the first warp thread 71 and the second heddle 62 being connected to the third warp thread 73.
The leno heddle 51 comprises a frame 511, and a soft heddle 512, a first fixed heddle 513 and a first half heddle 515 which are symmetrically arranged on the frame 511, wherein the connection point of the first fixed heddle 513 and the first half heddle 515 forms a retaining ring 514, the soft heddle 512 passes through the two retaining rings 514, a first warp yarn 71 passes through the retaining rings 514 on the left side and the right side, a second warp yarn 72 and a third warp yarn 73 pass through the upper parts of the soft heddle retaining rings 514, and the leno heddle device controls the first warp yarn 71 to move left and right between the second warp yarn 72 and the third warp yarn 73; the lifting heddle 52 comprises two groups of first lifting heddles 524 and two groups of second lifting heddles 525, a second fixed heddle 521 and a second half heddle 522 are arranged on the lifting heddles, a second retaining ring 523 is arranged at the connecting point of the second fixed heddle 521 and the second half heddle 522, and a second warp thread 72 and a third warp thread 73 respectively pass through the second retaining ring 523 on the first lifting heddles 524 and the second lifting heddles 525 on the same side. The foot bamboo 4 comprises a first connecting rod 41 and a second connecting rod 42, wherein the first connecting rod 41 is in transmission connection with one side of the heald lifting 52 and is also in transmission connection with two groups of first heald lifting pieces 524 respectively; the second connecting rod 42 is in transmission connection with the other side of the heald lifting 52 and is also in transmission connection with two groups of second heald lifting pieces 525 respectively. The length of the soft heald 512 is at least 54cm, the length of the first fixed heald 513 is at least 18cm, and the length of the first half heald 515 is at least 26cm, and the size is set so that the opening of the leno heald 52 reaches at least 3cm, thereby meeting the normal picking weaving of leno.
According to the method for weaving the three-warp-yarn hank-black-flower-shaped leno, the selected warp yarns and weft yarns are mulberry silk single-strand 40D raw silk. The first connecting rod 41 is stepped on to drive the soft heald 512 on the leno heald 51 to move the first warp yarn 71 from the original position to the left side of the third warp yarn 73 to form twisting, the first connecting rod 41 simultaneously drives the first heald 524, and the first heald 524 drives the second warp yarn 72 to lift up for one picking and beating up to form twisting of three warp yarns; then, the second connecting rod 42 is stepped to drive the soft heald 512 on the leno heald 51 to pull the first warp yarn 71 to rise at the original position (right side of the second warp yarn 72), and the second lifting heddle 525 drives the third warp yarn 73 to rise, so that one picking and beating-up are performed, and a group of three-warp leno structures are formed. When the three-warp hank is woven, the first connecting rod 41 and the second connecting rod 42 of the foot pedal bamboo are needed to be respectively picked and beaten up, and a group of three-warp hank rope-shaped arms are formed by stepping twice and picking twice, namely the three-warp hank structure.
When the weaving dark pattern in the three-warp-yarn leno weave pattern is woven, the first weft yarn controls the first warp yarn 71, the second warp yarn 72 and the third warp yarn 73 to twist through the first connecting rod 41 (the first connecting rod 41 is stepped to drive the soft heald 512 on the leno heddle 51 to twist the first warp yarn 71 from the original position to the left side of the third warp yarn 73, the first connecting rod 41 simultaneously drives the first heald 524, the first heald 524 drives the second warp yarn 72 to lift up for one picking and beating up to form three warp yarns to twist each other), the second weft yarn drives the leno heddle 6 to lift up different regular warp yarns through the control pattern on the floret loom, and the leno heddle 6 lifts up the third warp yarn 73 through the second leno heddle 62 when the dark pattern is lifted up to form a heavy plain weave pattern; when lifting the ground empty area, the heddle 6 lifts the first warp yarn 71 and the third warp yarn 73 (same as the pedal second connecting rod 42) simultaneously by the first heddle 61 and the second heddle 62 to form a three-warp leno; the second weft yarn is simultaneously provided with a re-plain weave and a three-warp hank weave to form a three-warp hank dark-colored-roman structure; in the process of picking the pattern, the warp direction is firstly arranged one by one corresponding to the pattern, the dark pattern part and the blank area of the ground part on the same weft are respectively picked, when the dark pattern part is picked, all points of the pattern part correspond to two warp threads (71 and 73), namely two warp threads are in a group, and only the second warp thread is picked up (counted from the left side to the right side of the pattern, and the even number grid is lifted up) in each pattern; when the blank area of the ground is picked, each point of the blank area corresponds to two warps (71, 73), and all warps of the blank area are picked up.
Claims (7)
1. A weaving method of three-channel hank festooned plant is characterized in that: when weaving the weaving dark pattern in the three-warp-yarn-twisting dark-colored festoon, the first weft yarn is twisted by a first connecting rod (41) to control a first warp yarn (71), a second warp yarn (72) and a third warp yarn (73), the second weft yarn is twisted by a control pattern on a festoon loom to drive a heddle (6) to lift warp yarns with different rules, and when the dark pattern is lifted, the festoon heddle (6) is lifted by a second festoon heddle (62) to form a heavy plain weave; when lifting the ground blank area, the heddle (6) lifts the first warp thread (71) and the third warp thread (73) through the first heddle (61) and the second heddle (62) simultaneously to form a three-warp leno; the second weft yarn is simultaneously provided with a re-plain weave and a three-warp hank weave to form a three-warp hank dark-colored-roman structure; in the process of picking the pattern, the dark pattern part and the blank area of the ground part are respectively picked, and when the dark pattern part is picked, all patterns are two groups, and each pattern picks up only the second warp yarn; when the blank area of the ground part is picked, each point of the blank area is also double, and all warps of the blank area are picked up.
2. The method for weaving three-warp-twisted festooned wire according to claim 1, characterized in that: the warp yarns and weft yarns selected by the method are mulberry silk single-strand 40D raw silk.
3. The method for weaving three-warp-twisted festooned wire according to claim 1, characterized in that: the loom adopted by the method comprises a frame (1), a warp feeding device (3) and a coiling device (2) which are respectively arranged at two ends of the frame (1), wherein the warp feeding device (3) is connected with the coiling device (2) through a total warp yarn (7); the machine frame (1) is sequentially provided with a reed frame (8) for beating up, a combined twisting device (5) for twisting the total warp (7) and a leno heddle (6) for controlling the total warp (7) to rise and fall, the combined twisting device (5) is connected with a foot bamboo (4), and the bottom of the leno heddle (6) is connected with a foot (9); the total warp yarn (7) is provided with two groups, and each group comprises a first warp yarn (71), a second warp yarn (72) and a third warp yarn (73); the combined twisting device (5) comprises a doup heddle (51) connected with a first warp thread (71) and a lifting heddle (52) connected with a second warp thread (72) and a third warp thread (73), the heddle (6) comprises a first heddle (61) and a second heddle (62), the first heddle (61) is connected with the first warp thread (71), and the second heddle (62) is connected with the third warp thread (73).
4. A method of weaving three-warp-twisted festooned wire according to claim 3, characterized in that: the leno heddle (51) comprises a frame body (511) and soft heddles (512), first fixed heddles (513) and first half heddles (515) which are symmetrically arranged on the frame body (511), wherein a buckle ring (514) is formed at a connecting point of the first fixed heddles (513) and the first half heddles (515), the soft heddles (512) penetrate through the two buckle rings (514), first warp threads (71) penetrate through the buckle rings (514) on the left side and the right side, and second warp threads (72) and third warp threads (73) penetrate through the upper portions of the soft heddle buckle rings (514).
5. A method of weaving three-warp-twisted festooned wire according to claim 3, characterized in that: the lifting heddles (52) comprise two groups of first lifting heddles (524) and two groups of second lifting heddles (525), second fixing heddles (521) and second half heddles (522) are arranged on the lifting heddles, second retaining rings (523) are arranged at connection points of the second fixing heddles (521) and the second half heddles (522), and second warp threads (72) and third warp threads (73) respectively penetrate through the second retaining rings (523) on the first lifting heddles (524) and the second lifting heddles (525) on the same side.
6. A method of weaving three-warp-twisted festooned wire according to claim 3, characterized in that: the foot bamboo (4) comprises a first connecting rod (41) and a second connecting rod (42), wherein the first connecting rod (41) is in transmission connection with one side of the heald lifting (52) and is also in transmission connection with two groups of first heald lifting pieces (524) respectively; the second connecting rod (42) is in transmission connection with the other side of the heald lifting piece (52) and is also in transmission connection with two groups of second heald lifting pieces (525) respectively.
7. The method for weaving three-warp-twisted festooned wire according to claim 4, characterized in that: the length of the soft heald (512) is at least 54cm, the length of the first fixed heald (513) is at least 18cm, and the length of the first half heald (515) is at least 26cm.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202211671669.4A CN116005316A (en) | 2022-12-26 | 2022-12-26 | Weaving method of three-warp-yarn hank dark fescue |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202211671669.4A CN116005316A (en) | 2022-12-26 | 2022-12-26 | Weaving method of three-warp-yarn hank dark fescue |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN116005316A true CN116005316A (en) | 2023-04-25 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202211671669.4A Withdrawn CN116005316A (en) | 2022-12-26 | 2022-12-26 | Weaving method of three-warp-yarn hank dark fescue |
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| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN116005316A (en) |
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- 2022-12-26 CN CN202211671669.4A patent/CN116005316A/en not_active Withdrawn
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Application publication date: 20230425 |