CN115368980A

CN115368980A - Novel micro-emulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN115368980A
Application number: CN202211025603.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 缑奕显; 缑卫军; 张忠勇; 焦永杰; 刘加艳; 刘栋华; 赵帅; 曹震
Original assignee: Henan Vocational College of Applied Technology
Current assignee: Henan Vocational College of Applied Technology
Priority date: 2022-08-25
Filing date: 2022-08-25
Publication date: 2022-11-22

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of skin care products, in particular to a novel micro-emulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap and a preparation method thereof. The facial soap comprises an amino acid surfactant, a cosurfactant, a neutralizer, a microemulsion, a plant herbal extract, prebiotics, a small molecule active peptide, a humectant, an auxiliary agent and a solvent, and is prepared by adopting a hot-melt casting method. The microemulsion is an isotropic thermodynamic stable system formed by water, oil, surfactant and cosurfactant in a proper proportion, a transparent microemulsion is prepared by a microemulsion process, and the skin-moistening oil such as GTCC, EHP, squalane, silk oil and the like is dispersed in a soap body to achieve the purpose of double effects of washing and protecting. The invention regulates and controls the water-oil balance and flora balance of skin, has anti-inflammatory and soothing functions, and can moisten skin through skin under the optimal coordination of multiple raw materials. Overcomes the defects that the amino acid soap is easy to dry and tighten the skin, and the like, endows the skin with elasticity, luster and smoothness, and is suitable for cleaning and maintaining various skins.

Description

Novel micro-emulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of skin care products, and particularly relates to a novel micro-emulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The facial soap has the effects of moisturizing, controlling oil, resisting acne, whitening and the like, is glittering and translucent in appearance, natural and fashionable, and is deeply loved by people. At present, the totally transparent facial soap on the market is generally prepared by a soap-based method, a fatty acid saponification method, an amino acid surfactant neutralization method and the like. The transparent cleansing soap prepared by the soap base and fatty acid saponification method mainly comprises anionic surface active ingredients, has weak alkaline pH value and strong degreasing force, easily causes the loss of oily moisturizing ingredients in skin after long-term use, weakens the alkali neutralization capacity of the skin, changes the skin, and finally causes the aging and damage of the skin. The amino acid surfactant is mild and has low irritation, and the prepared soap finished product has a pH value of 5-7, is weakly acidic, is close to the pH value of human skin, and has good skin-friendly property. However, for sensitive skin such as dry skin, acne and inflammation, the skin barrier is easy to be unbalanced after long-term use, and the problems of dry skin, tight skin and the like are caused. Therefore, the skin care grease is dispersed into the solid soap by using the micro-emulsification technology, so that the effects of refreshing, grease adding, water locking and moisture retention can be achieved, the soap body is smooth and tender in texture and quick in foaming, and the oil-water balance of healthy skin can be effectively maintained.

The microemulsion technology is a brand new technology different from the common emulsification technology, is a transparent and isotropic thermodynamic stable system formed by water, oil, surfactant and cosurfactant in a proper proportion, and is generally suitable for the preparation of transparent liquid products. Because the microemulsion has fine particles and is easier to diffuse and permeate into the skin, some skin care essence raw materials or active ingredients which have low solubility and are difficult to disperse or difficult to dissolve into water can be dispersed into the system in a microemulsion mode, thereby improving the utilization rate of the active ingredients. In recent years, the micro-emulsification technology has wide application in the fields of functional materials, biomedicine, environmental protection, energy, food, cosmetics and other industries. The skin care oil and fat are blended into the preparation of the solid transparent amino acid facial soap product by adopting a micro-emulsification technology, and the current patents and literature are rarely reported.

The plant skin care is mainly from active ingredients extracted from leaves, stems, petals, fruits and roots of the plant. Herbal skin care is mainly oriented by 'Chinese herbal medicine' as a brand in traditional domestic herbal skin care brands. Botanical herbs generally refer broadly to the roots, stems, bark, leaves and fruiting bodies of herbaceous plants, and also include the flowers and fruits of some trees, trees and shrubs. The plant herbal extract is applied to skin care (cosmetics) products, and has the effects of repairing, resisting allergy, resisting aging, resisting oxidation, inhibiting bacteria, removing acnes, whitening, moistening and the like.

The micro-ecological skin care is a hot spot of the research of domestic and foreign biological skin care products in recent years. According to researches, prebiotics (nondigestible plant carbohydrate) components such as GOS, FOS and the like are added into the skin care product, so that the growth of beneficial bacteria of the skin can be promoted, harmful bacteria can be inhibited and eliminated, the flora balance on the surface of the skin is adjusted, and the barrier function and the cell renewal function of the skin are improved, thereby improving the problems of dry and sensitive skin, acne, spots and the like. Only by improving and regulating the microbial community of the skin, the skin can be kept healthy, the barrier capability of the skin is enhanced, and various problems of the skin are improved from the source. Therefore, the skin care and beauty treatment are intended to be maintained and prevented, and the skin micro-ecology has important physiological functions.

With the continuous progress of biotechnology, the development of green, natural, healthy and safe skin care products by combining the active ingredients of biomass and plant herbal extracts with dermatology has become a trend of future development.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a novel micro-emulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap and a preparation method thereof, and solves the technical problems that the existing transparent amino acid facial soap is easy to dry and tighten skin after being used, especially for sensitive skin such as dry skin, acne and inflammation, and the skin barrier is easy to unbalance after being used for a long time. The raw materials used in the invention all meet the requirements of technical specifications for cosmetic safety (2015), which is the main standard. The pH value of the product is 5-7, is faintly acid, is mild, moistens the skin, is transparent, plant-extracted, green and natural, and is suitable for health care of various skins.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that:

a novel micro-emulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap comprises the following substances in percentage by mass:

further, the amino acid surfactant is one or two of cocoyl glutamic acid and cocoyl sodium glycinate. Cocoyl glutamic acid: white powder, amino acid anionic surfactant, is weakly acidic as skin does. The foam is rich and delicate, has natural sources, and is mild and moist; strong antibacterial ability, good biodegradability, environmental protection, low carbon and no negative influence on the environment. Sodium cocoyl glycinate: white powder, amino acid anionic surfactant. Natural sources, mild skin-friendly property, no stimulation, large and durable foam amount, and excellent high and low temperature stability. The washing feeling is fresh and cool, the degreasing is not carried out, and the tightening feeling is not caused.

Further, the co-surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine, CAB. CAB is a colorless and transparent amphoteric surfactant, is mild to skin and eye mucous membrane, has no stimulation, has no anaphylactic reaction, is easily soluble in water, is stable to acid and alkali, has more foams and has strong detergency. Has excellent thickening property, flexibility, bactericidal property, antistatic property, hard water resistance and low temperature stability.

Further, the neutralizing agent is Triethanolamine (TEA). TEA is a colorless, transparent, viscous liquid at ordinary temperature and is used as an emulsifying, moisturizing, thickening, stabilizing agent, etc. in cosmetics. TEA belongs to a weak organic base and is used as a neutralizing agent. The product can be neutralized with amino acid such as cocoyl glutamic acid to generate cocoyl glutamic acid TEA salt, has good biodegradability and skin affinity, and is the main component of amino acid transparent facial soap.

Further, the plant herbal extract is one or more of aloe vera extract, atractylodes macrocephala extract and geranium extract. Aloe vera extract: the main active ingredients are aloe polysaccharide, vitamins, amino acids, phenols, organic acids, aloin, etc. Skin care efficacy: moistening and moisturizing, whitening and sun-screening, resisting bacteria and inflammation, resisting aging, and has good therapeutic effect on facial acne and comedo. Extracting the white atractylodes rhizome: the main active ingredients are atractylone, sesquiterpene, lactone, various alcohols, various amino acids and the like. Skin care effect: whitening, removing speckle, regulating skin, resisting aging, and resisting oxidation. Geranium extract: the main active ingredients are citronellol, geraniol, etc. Skin care efficacy: has antioxidant, antibacterial, deep purifying and astringing effects, can balance sebum secretion, and has good affinity and is suitable for various skin types.

Further, the prebiotics are one, two or three of galacto-oligosaccharide (GOS), fructo-oligosaccharide (FOS) and oat beta-glucan. Galacto-oligosaccharide: a functional oligosaccharide with natural attribute, breast milk prebiotics, and bifidus factor. Heat resistance, acid resistance, strong moisture retention, regulation of flora balance on the surface of the skin, and skin care by microecology organisms. Fructo-oligosaccharide: a water-soluble dietary fiber is effective in inhibiting growth of harmful bacteria on facial skin surface, retarding pigmentation, and removing mottle. Regulating balance of flora on skin surface, and protecting skin with microorganism. Oat beta-glucan: an all natural polysaccharide derived from herba Avenae Fatuae. Has effects of resisting aging, improving skin elasticity, keeping moisture, and enhancing skin immunity. Is an active ingredient release carrier, and has good transdermal absorption performance. The oat polysaccharide provides a favorable growth environment for beneficial bacteria on the surface layer of the skin and maintains healthy microbial environment on the surface layer of the skin.

Further, the small molecule active peptide is one or two compounds of soybean oligopeptide and fish collagen peptide. Soybean oligopeptide: the small molecular peptide prepared by enzymolysis and acid hydrolysis of soybean protein has a molecular weight less than 1000 daltons, and is easily absorbed by skin stratum corneum. Good water solubility, heat resistance, acid resistance, oxidation resistance, allergy resistance and aging delay. The super bifidus factor can increase the elasticity of the skin and restore the luster of the skin; moisten skin, stimulate the metabolism of skin inner layer cells, and achieve the effects of maintaining beauty and keeping young. Fish collagen peptide: also called marine fish oligopeptide, is a high molecular functional protein, is a main component of skin and accounts for 80 percent of the dermis of the skin. Has the effects of locking water, keeping moisture, resisting wrinkle, delaying aging, smoothing fine lines, whitening skin, lightening color spots and the like.

Further, the humectant is one or more of glycerol glucoside, glycerol (glycerin) and propylene glycol. The glycerol glucoside is a glucoside compound formed by connecting glucosyl and glycerol through glucoside bonds, and belongs to a whole-plant water-soluble multifunctional humectant. Has the effects of moisturizing, resisting aging, improving skin barrier, etc., and improving skin moisture retention, elasticity and smoothness, and is suitable for daily care of various skin types. The propylene glycol and the propylene glycol are colorless transparent viscous liquids, have small irritation and good solubility and stability, and are generally used as moisturizers in skin care (cosmetics).

Further, the auxiliary agent is one or a compound of more than two of magnolol, L-sodium lactate and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate. Magnolol: the main active ingredients are total magnolol and magnolol. Skin care efficacy: antibacterial, antiinflammatory, acne removing, skin whitening and antioxidant effects. Sodium L-lactate: food additive, antioxidant synergist, emulsifier, and skin care product humectant. Skin care efficacy: natural moisturizing factor, new generation skin whitening agent, and moistening agent, and can reduce wrinkle and regulate xerosis cutis. Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: glycyrrhizin (glycyrrhizic acid) component of root and stem of Glycyrrhrizae radix. Skin care efficacy: has antibacterial, antiinflammatory, toxic materials clearing away, antiallergic, and deodorant effects.

Further, the solvent is ethanol and water. Ethanol: low-carbon straight-chain alcohol, colorless transparent liquid. Used as (solubilizing) agent, disinfectant, etc.

Further, the microemulsion consists of the following substances in percentage by mass:

further, the surfactant is hydrogenated castor oil (CO-40). Hydrogenated castor oil is a non-ionic excellent solubilizer and emulsifier. Has the ability to dissolve or emulsify oil-soluble ingredients and convert them into a clear solution or stable emulsion, the solubilizing effect of which is remarkable. It can improve the solubility of water-insoluble active ingredients, and improve the moisturizing effect and soft feeling.

Further, the cosurfactant' is a compound of glycerol and 1,3-butanediol. The cosurfactant in the preparation of the microemulsion is generally low-carbon-chain water-soluble fatty alcohol, and can change the surface activity and the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the surfactant and regulate the polarity of water and oil.

Further, the emulsifier is a compound of SSE-20/SS (PEG-20 methyl glucoside sesquistearate/methyl glucoside sesquistearate). SSE-20/SS is one of glucoside derivatives in natural corn starch, and is nonionic emulsifier. SSE-20HLB is 15, with oil-in-water emulsifying activity; the HLB value of SS is 5, and the SS is a water-in-oil emulsifier which is compatible with the SS and is suitable for different emulsification occasions by adjusting different mixture ratios of the two, and has superior performance compared with other common emulsifiers.

Further, the skin care oil is one or more of GTCC (caprylic/capric triglyceride), EHP (isooctyl palmitate), squalane and silk oil (isononyl isononanoate). GTCC and EHP are colorless transparent liquid, are excellent skin soft and moist grease, have strong affinity with skin, are easy to be absorbed by skin, have stable performance and good permeability, and make skin soft, tender and smooth without greasy feeling. Squalane is colorless transparent liquid, and is prepared by hydrogenating squalene extracted from deep sea shark liver, also called deep sea shark liver oil. Moistening, moisture keeping, oxidation resisting, and excellent thermal stability. It can help balance between skin and sebum, repair epidermis, form natural protective film, and inhibit peroxidation of skin lipid. Meanwhile, it can effectively permeate into skin, promote blood microcirculation and promote cell metabolism. Has the advantages of anti-aging, speckle removing, antibacterial, no sensitization, and high safety. The silk oil is colorless transparent liquid, has excellent skin moistening and ester endowing effects, is fresh and cool without greasy feeling, can soften skin, and has excellent effect of moistening dry skin.

Further, the chelating agent is EDTA-2Na (disodium ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid). EDTA-2Na is a chelating agent and an antioxidant. Can complex metal ions such as iron, calcium, magnesium and the like in water, cooperate with corrosion resistance, oxidation resistance, fresh preservation and hard water resistance, and improve the washing and protecting effect.

Further, the preparation method of the microemulsion comprises the following steps:

(1) Dissolving surfactant and emulsifier in skin care oil, heating and stirring over water at 80 deg.C to completely dissolve to obtain oil phase;

(2) Dissolving cosurfactant' and chelating agent in deionized water, heating and stirring over water at 80 ℃ until the mixture is completely dissolved, and preserving heat for 20min to obtain a water phase for later use;

(3) Under the stirring of 80 ℃, 1/2 amount of the water phase is slowly added into the oil phase, after the mixture is stirred to be uniform and transparent, the rest water phase is slowly added to be completely transparent, the mixture is stirred for 5-10 min, and the temperature is reduced to the room temperature, so that the transparent O/W type microemulsion with stable bluish color is prepared (when the water phase is poured into the oil phase, the system is W/O, the W/O of the system is converted into O/W along with the gradual increase of the water phase, the granularity of the emulsion is small, and the stability is high).

The microemulsion is a thermodynamic stable system, has small dispersed phase particles (0.01-0.1 mu m), is bluish and transparent in appearance, can carry active substances to be absorbed through skin, and improves the utilization rate of the active substances.

A preparation method of a novel micro-emulsified plant herbaceous transparent amino acid facial soap comprises the following steps:

mixing an amino acid surfactant, galacto-oligosaccharide or galacto-oligosaccharide and fructo-oligosaccharide, micromolecular active peptide, a humectant, a solvent or/and microemulsion, stirring at the speed of 220rpm/min, heating over water at 90 ℃ and stirring until the mixture is completely dissolved and transparent to obtain a component A;

step (2), mixing the neutralizer, the auxiliary agent, the solvent or/and the microemulsion, heating and stirring in a water-proof way at 90 ℃, and preserving heat for 20min to obtain a component B for later use;

mixing a cosurfactant, a plant herb extracting solution and oat beta-glucan to obtain a component C for later use;

step (4), slowly adding the component B into the component A under the stirring condition, neutralizing for 5-8 min, and cooling to below 80 ℃;

and (5) slowly adding the component C at the temperature of below 80 ℃, stirring for 2-3 min, preserving heat, defoaming, filling into a mold, cooling and packaging. The raw materials used in the invention are all known and commercially available and easily purchased raw materials, and the using method and the functions of the raw materials are mature technologies.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

1. the skin care oil EHP, GTCC, squalane, silk oil and the like are dispersed into the solid soap by adopting a micro-emulsification technology, so that the skin care oil is moisturized and locked, is not dry and tight, and can maintain the oil-water balance of the skin. The preparation of the microemulsion is carried out by a large number of single-factor, orthogonal and verification tests, the obtained optimal process and formula have good reproducibility, and the microemulsion can be used as a preferred scheme to disperse other oil or water-insoluble active ingredients and used for preparing liquid transparent skin care products such as essence, toner and the like. The invention utilizes the microemulsion technology to uniformly disperse the skin care oil into the preparation of the transparent solid product, and the literature and the patent are reported at present.

2. The plant extractive solution is added with active ingredients of herbal aloe, atractylodis rhizoma, and flos Pelargonii Hortori, and has antibacterial, antioxidant, moisture keeping, skin whitening, repairing, relieving, wrinkle smoothing, plant extraction, and natural skin caring effects.

3. The research and development introduces a micro-ecological skin care concept, and three prebiotics GOS, FOS and oat beta-glucan are compounded in the product. Bifidus factor, high efficiency in keeping moisture, removing color spot, removing wrinkle, and resisting aging. Regulating balance of flora on skin surface, enhancing skin immunity, and protecting skin with microorganism.

4. The soybean oligopeptide and the fish collagen peptide are dissolved in a formula system, and the skin is endowed with elasticity, luster and smoothness by pure nature, antioxidation, human body homology and super bifidus factors. The skin-care cream is compounded with functional additives such as magnolol and the like to exert the synergistic skin-care effect, and has the functions of softening and moistening fat, whitening and resisting oxygen, naturally preserving moisture, inhibiting bacteria and resisting allergy. Green skin care and further improves the product quality.

5. Scientific skin care and healthy washing care. The product has the advantages of mirror-like transparency, safety, fashion, quick bubbling, good skin feel, no preservative, no essence, no stimulation, convenient use, simple preparation process, easy mass production and suitability for the maintenance of various skins.

6. From the aspects of product research and development guide and product functions, raw materials such as skin care matrix, biomass, plant herbal active ingredients and the like are compounded, biological skin care, green and low carbon are advocated, the method is in the same direction with industrial development, and the method is in accordance with skin care fashion of consumers.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions and effects of the present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.

The invention is described by examples 1 to 3 for microemulsions. Through a large number of single-factor and orthogonal tests, the optimal conditions obtained by microemulsion preparation are as follows: the surfactant hydrogenated castor oil CO40 is 9.0 percent, the emulsifier SSE-20/SS is 4.5 percent/0.5 percent, and the water phase components are fixed. Therefore, only the amounts of different oils and fats are changed, and specific examples are as follows.

Example 1

The microemulsion of the embodiment comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

example 2

example 3

examples 1-3 the preparation method of the microemulsion is as follows:

the preparation method of the microemulsion comprises the following steps:

(3) Slowly adding 1/2 of the water phase into the oil phase under stirring at 80 ℃, stirring until the mixture is uniform and transparent, slowly adding the rest water phase until the mixture is completely transparent, stirring for 5-10 min, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the microemulsion.

The invention is described by the examples 4-9 for the novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap.

Example 4

The novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

example 5

example 6

example 7

The novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap comprises the following components in percentage by mass (%):

example 8

example 9

examples 4 to 9 a method for preparing a novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap comprises:

and (5) slowly adding the component C at the temperature of below 80 ℃, stirring for 2-3 min, preserving heat, defoaming, filling into a mold, cooling and packaging.

The evaluation of the novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap product is shown in table 1.

Table 1 product evaluation summary

The sources and specifications of the raw materials used in the present invention are shown in Table 2.

TABLE 2 microemulsion plant herbaceous amino acid transparent face soap raw material List

Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. A novel micro-emulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap is characterized by comprising the following substances in percentage by mass:

30 to 35 percent of amino acid surfactant

1 to 6 percent of cosurfactant

15 to 30 percent of neutralizer

5 to 10 percent of microemulsion

1 to 5 percent of plant herbal extract

0.1 to 3 percent of prebiotics

0.1 to 1 percent of small molecule active peptide

1 to 15 percent of humectant

0.5 to 2 percent of auxiliary agent

5 to 25 percent of solvent.

2. The novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap according to claim 1, wherein said amino acid surfactant is one or two of cocoyl glutamic acid and sodium cocoyl glycinate.

3. The novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap as claimed in claim 1, wherein the plant herbal extractive solution is one or more of aloe vera extractive solution, atractylodes macrocephala extractive solution, and geranium extractive solution.

4. The novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap as claimed in claim 1, wherein said prebiotic is one, two or three of galacto-oligosaccharide, fructo-oligosaccharide, oat β -glucan.

5. The novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap as claimed in claim 1, wherein the small molecule active peptide is one or two of soybean oligopeptide and fish collagen peptide.

6. The novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap as claimed in claim 1, wherein the adjuvant is one or more of magnolol, sodium L-lactate, and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate.

7. The novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap as claimed in claim 1, wherein the microemulsion is composed of the following substances by mass percent:

5 to 12 percent of surfactant

Cosurfactant 5-10%

0.5 to 5 percent of emulsifier

1 to 10 percent of skin care grease

0.05 to 0.2 percent of chelating agent

70-80% of deionized water.

8. The novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap according to claim 7, wherein the skin care oil is one or more of GTCC, EHP, squalane and silkworm silk oil.

9. The novel microemulsified plant herbal transparent amino acid facial soap as claimed in claim 7, wherein the microemulsion is prepared by the following steps:

10. A preparation method of a novel micro-emulsified plant herbaceous transparent amino acid facial soap comprises the following steps:

step (3), mixing the cosurfactant, the plant herbal extract and the oat beta-glucan to obtain a component C for later use;