CN115337226B - Whitening composition, cosmetic and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Whitening composition, cosmetic and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN115337226B CN115337226B CN202211011229.6A CN202211011229A CN115337226B CN 115337226 B CN115337226 B CN 115337226B CN 202211011229 A CN202211011229 A CN 202211011229A CN 115337226 B CN115337226 B CN 115337226B
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 32
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 15
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title abstract description 8
- 238000000855 fermentation Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 110
- 230000004151 fermentation Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 110
- BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-RMPHRYRLSA-N hydroquinone O-beta-D-glucopyranoside Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1OC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-RMPHRYRLSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 54
- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nicotinamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 52
- 241000026010 Dendrobium candidum Species 0.000 claims abstract description 40
- 229960000271 arbutin Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N p-hydroxyphenyl beta-D-alloside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 229960003966 nicotinamide Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 235000005152 nicotinamide Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 239000011570 nicotinamide Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 241001076416 Dendrobium tosaense Species 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 240000004808 Saccharomyces cerevisiae Species 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 235000014680 Saccharomyces cerevisiae Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000011259 mixed solution Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 230000001954 sterilising effect Effects 0.000 claims description 12
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Chemical compound O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- TXFPEBPIARQUIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4'-hydroxyacetophenone Chemical compound CC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 TXFPEBPIARQUIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000004659 sterilization and disinfection Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000008213 purified water Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940015975 1,2-hexanediol Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004475 Arginine Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920002385 Sodium hyaluronate Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920002125 Sokalan® Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N arginine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCCNC(N)=N ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)O CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229960001631 carbomer Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- FHKSXSQHXQEMOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCC(O)CO FHKSXSQHXQEMOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000010298 pulverizing process Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000007873 sieving Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000001514 detection method Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000000227 grinding Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000002513 implantation Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 241001530056 Athelia rolfsii Species 0.000 claims description 2
- 241001558929 Sclerotium <basidiomycota> Species 0.000 claims description 2
- XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Melanin Chemical compound O=C1C(=O)C(C2=CNC3=C(C(C(=O)C4=C32)=O)C)=C2C4=CNC2=C1C XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 abstract description 46
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 11
- 210000002615 epidermis Anatomy 0.000 abstract description 7
- 230000004060 metabolic process Effects 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000008099 melanin synthesis Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 102000005348 Neuraminidase Human genes 0.000 abstract description 2
- 108010006232 Neuraminidase Proteins 0.000 abstract description 2
- 230000002195 synergetic effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 2
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 19
- 230000005764 inhibitory process Effects 0.000 description 10
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 10
- 241000251468 Actinopterygii Species 0.000 description 8
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 8
- 230000002401 inhibitory effect Effects 0.000 description 7
- 210000001161 mammalian embryo Anatomy 0.000 description 7
- 102000003425 Tyrosinase Human genes 0.000 description 6
- 108060008724 Tyrosinase Proteins 0.000 description 6
- 239000013641 positive control Substances 0.000 description 5
- 102000004400 Aminopeptidases Human genes 0.000 description 4
- 108090000915 Aminopeptidases Proteins 0.000 description 4
- 208000003351 Melanosis Diseases 0.000 description 4
- FULZLIGZKMKICU-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-phenylthiourea Chemical compound NC(=S)NC1=CC=CC=C1 FULZLIGZKMKICU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000000523 sample Substances 0.000 description 4
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- 238000011835 investigation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 210000002752 melanocyte Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 238000011056 performance test Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000010998 test method Methods 0.000 description 3
- UXVMQQNJUSDDNG-UHFFFAOYSA-L Calcium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].[Cl-].[Ca+2] UXVMQQNJUSDDNG-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- WCUXLLCKKVVCTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Potassium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].[K+] WCUXLLCKKVVCTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- UIIMBOGNXHQVGW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium bicarbonate Chemical compound [Na+].OC([O-])=O UIIMBOGNXHQVGW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 230000004071 biological effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 210000004027 cell Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 210000002257 embryonic structure Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 description 2
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- 150000008442 polyphenolic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 235000013824 polyphenols Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 241000252212 Danio rerio Species 0.000 description 1
- AHMIDUVKSGCHAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dopaquinone Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CC(=O)C(=O)C=C1 AHMIDUVKSGCHAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 1
- 206010015150 Erythema Diseases 0.000 description 1
- AHMIDUVKSGCHAU-LURJTMIESA-N L-dopaquinone Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)[C@@H]([NH3+])CC1=CC(=O)C(=O)C=C1 AHMIDUVKSGCHAU-LURJTMIESA-N 0.000 description 1
- OUYCCCASQSFEME-QMMMGPOBSA-N L-tyrosine Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-QMMMGPOBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000235342 Saccharomycetes Species 0.000 description 1
- GAMYVSCDDLXAQW-AOIWZFSPSA-N Thermopsosid Natural products O(C)c1c(O)ccc(C=2Oc3c(c(O)cc(O[C@H]4[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](CO)O4)c3)C(=O)C=2)c1 GAMYVSCDDLXAQW-AOIWZFSPSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000002835 absorbance Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003712 anti-aging effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003110 anti-inflammatory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003064 anti-oxidating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000006708 antioxidants Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 210000000270 basal cell Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000001110 calcium chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001628 calcium chloride Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007405 data analysis Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000001339 epidermal cell Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 231100000321 erythema Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229930003944 flavone Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000002212 flavone derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000011949 flavones Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229930003935 flavonoid Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000002215 flavonoids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000017173 flavonoids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000001678 irradiating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000002510 keratinocyte Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- WRUGWIBCXHJTDG-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium sulfate heptahydrate Chemical compound O.O.O.O.O.O.O.[Mg+2].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O WRUGWIBCXHJTDG-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229940061634 magnesium sulfate heptahydrate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000036564 melanin content Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003061 melanogenesis Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002906 microbiologic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000037311 normal skin Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001103 potassium chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011164 potassium chloride Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000005855 radiation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011160 research Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000017557 sodium bicarbonate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910000030 sodium bicarbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000001228 spectrum Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007619 statistical method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N tyrosine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VHBFFQKBGNRLFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N vitamin p Natural products O1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C=C1C1=CC=CC=C1 VHBFFQKBGNRLFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000012224 working solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052724 xenon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- FHNFHKCVQCLJFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N xenon atom Chemical compound [Xe] FHNFHKCVQCLJFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
- A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
- A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/85—Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A50/00—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
- Y02A50/30—Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change
Abstract
The invention discloses a whitening composition, a cosmetic and a preparation method thereof. The whitening composition comprises the following components: dendrobium officinale fermentation product, arbutin and nicotinamide; the dendrobium candidum fermentation product is obtained by fermenting saccharomyces cerevisiae. The dendrobium candidum fermentation product and arbutin can better inhibit the activity of the neuraminidase after being cooperated; the nicotinamide can interfere the synthesis of melanin, prevents the generated melanin from transferring to the epidermis, accelerates the metabolism of the epidermis, leads cells containing the melanin to fall off, and can play a better synergistic effect when the dendrobium candidum fermentation product, arbutin and nicotinamide are compounded for use.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a whitening composition, a cosmetic and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The color of the skin is mainly affected by the content and distribution of skin pigment, and melanin is the most dominant influencing factor. The content of melanin in skin determines the color shade of skin, melanocytes are positioned on the basal of skin, and melanin is formed in the melanocytes, wherein the process is that tyrosine in the melanocytes reacts in a series under the action of tyrosinase to finally form melanin, so that the skin color is blackened. Melanin is transferred to basal cells, and is carried to the whole epidermis as epidermal cells migrate, and finally disappears as keratinocytes fall off.
Melanin control can be inhibited from the following aspects: (1) reducing melanogenesis signals; (2) inhibiting tyrosinase activity; (3) inhibiting oxidation of dopaquinone; (4) inhibiting melanin transport; (5) accelerating the metabolism of melanin; along with the increasing requirements of modern women on whitening, the existing whitening products can not well meet the requirements, and the cosmetic integrating whitening, anti-aging and anti-inflammatory has good application prospect.
Disclosure of Invention
Based on this, the present invention aims to overcome the above-mentioned shortcomings of the prior art and provide a whitening composition, a cosmetic and a preparation method thereof.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows: a whitening composition comprising the following components: dendrobium officinale fermentation product, arbutin and nicotinamide.
According to the invention, by using the unique saccharomycetes in the laboratory and taking the dendrobium candidum as a substrate for biological fermentation, the obtained dendrobium candidum fermentation product rich in plant polysaccharide, flavone and polyphenol has higher biological activity. Compared with the conventional dendrobium candidum extract with moisturizing and antioxidation effects, the dendrobium candidum fermentation product has the effect of inhibiting tyrosinase activity and has better whitening effect.
After a large number of experimental researches, the inventor finds that the dendrobium candidum fermentation product, arbutin and nicotinamide have a synergistic effect. After the dendrobium candidum fermentation product and the arbutin are cooperated, the activity of the aminopeptidase can be better inhibited, the nicotinamide can interfere the synthesis of melanin, the generated melanin is prevented from being transported to the epidermis layer, the metabolism of the epidermis layer is quickened, cells containing the melanin are enabled to fall off, and the dendrobium candidum fermentation product, the arbutin and the nicotinamide are compounded for use, so that a better synergy effect can be achieved.
Preferably, the whitening composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-5 parts of dendrobium candidum fermentation product, 0.5-2 parts of arbutin and 0.5-2 parts of nicotinamide.
After a great deal of experimental investigation, the inventor finds that the weight parts of the dendrobium candidum fermentation product, the arbutin and the nicotinamide have great influence on the finally prepared cosmetics, and the prepared cosmetics have good whitening effect when the dendrobium candidum fermentation product is 1-5 parts, the arbutin is 0.5-2 parts and the nicotinamide is 0.5-2 parts.
Further preferably, the whitening composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2-3 parts of dendrobium candidum fermentation product, 0.5-1 part of arbutin and 0.5-1 part of nicotinamide.
After a great deal of experimental investigation, the inventor finds that the weight parts of the dendrobium candidum fermentation product, the arbutin and the nicotinamide have great influence on the finally prepared cosmetics, and the prepared cosmetics have good whitening effect when the dendrobium candidum fermentation product is 2-3 parts, the arbutin is 0.5-1 part and the nicotinamide is 0.5-1 part.
More preferably, the whitening composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2.5 parts of dendrobium candidum fermentation product, 0.5 part of arbutin and 0.5 part of nicotinamide.
After a great deal of experimental investigation, the inventor finds that the whitening effect of the prepared cosmetic reaches the best when 2.5 parts of dendrobium candidum fermentation product, 0.5 part of arbutin and 0.5 part of nicotinamide are adopted.
Preferably, the dendrobium candidum fermentation product is obtained by fermenting saccharomyces cerevisiae (Saccharomyces cerevisiae).
According to the invention, saccharomyces cerevisiae saccharomyces cerevisiae is used for fermenting dendrobium candidum, and the obtained fermentation product has good biological activity.
The invention relates to a fermentation method of dendrobium candidum fermentation products, which comprises the following steps: (1) grinding dendrobium candidum; (2) sterilizing I; (3) strain implantation; (4) fermenting; (5) sterilization II; and (6) detecting fermentation products.
Preferably, the specific process of the step (1) is as follows: pulverizing Dendrobium officinale, sieving with a 30-80 mesh sieve to obtain powder, and mixing the powder with purified water according to a mass ratio of 1: (30-50) to obtain uniform feed liquid, and homogenizing the feed liquid by using high-pressure micro-jet equipment. Further preferably, the powder in the step (1) is sieved by a 60-mesh sieve, and the mass ratio of the powder to the purified water in the step (1) is 1:40 are mixed uniformly.
Preferably, the sterilization conditions of the step (2) and the step (5) are 121 ℃ and the sterilization is carried out for 30min.
Preferably, the fermentation process of the step (4) specifically comprises the following conditions: the fermentation time is 70-96h, the rotating speed is 80-280rpm/min in the fermentation process, and the dissolved oxygen content in the fermentation process is 5-10%. Further preferably, the fermentation process pH of step (4) is maintained at 5.0-6.0; the fermentation process in the step (4) is divided into a fermentation early stage, a fermentation medium stage I, a fermentation medium stage II and a fermentation later stage according to the fermentation time;
preferably, the fermentation process of the step (4) specifically comprises the following steps:
a01 fermentation earlier stage: the fermentation time is 4-15h, and the rotating speed is 80-120rpm/min in the fermentation process;
a02 middle fermentation stage I: the fermentation time is 24-35h, and the rotating speed is 180-220rpm/min in the fermentation process; the content of dissolved oxygen is 5-10%;
a03 middle fermentation stage II: the fermentation time is 24-35h, and the rotating speed is 130-160rpm/min in the fermentation process; the content of dissolved oxygen is 5-10%;
a04 late fermentation stage: the fermentation time is 10-20h, the rotating speed is 130-160rpm/min in the fermentation process, and the content of dissolved oxygen is more than or equal to 10%.
Further preferably, the fermentation process of the step (4) specifically comprises the following steps:
a01 fermentation earlier stage: the fermentation time is 13h, and the rotating speed in the fermentation process is 100rpm/min;
a02 middle fermentation stage I: the fermentation time is 35 hours, and the rotating speed is 200rpm/min in the fermentation process; the content of dissolved oxygen is 5-6%;
a03 middle fermentation stage II: the fermentation time is 32h, and the rotating speed is 150rpm/min in the fermentation process; the content of dissolved oxygen is 5-6%;
a04 late fermentation stage: the fermentation time is 16 hours, the rotating speed in the fermentation process is 150rpm/min, and the content of dissolved oxygen is more than or equal to 10 percent.
Preferably, in the step (4), the volume ratio of the strain to the feed liquid is 1: (10-50).
Preferably, the detection items of the fermentation product of the step (6) include: flavonoid content, polyphenol content, polysaccharide content, antioxidant capacity, and aminopeptidase inhibiting capacity.
In the present application, the dendrobium candidum fermentation process is performed in a reactor, and more preferably, the fermentation is performed in a double tank reactor.
In addition, the invention provides application of the whitening composition in cosmetics.
Further, the present invention provides cosmetics comprising the whitening composition.
The invention provides a cosmetic which is essence, and comprises the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight:
phase A: the balance of water, 0.1-0.2 part of carbomer, 0.05-0.1 part of sclerotium rolfsii, 0.05-0.1 part of sodium hyaluronate, 3-5 parts of glycerin, 3-8 parts of glycerin polyether-26, 3-8 parts of butanediol, 0.5-1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.5-1 part of 1, 2-hexanediol;
and B phase: 0.1-0.2 part of arginine;
and C phase: 1-5 parts of dendrobium candidum fermentation product, 0.5-2 parts of arbutin and 0.5-2 parts of nicotinamide.
Preferably, the cosmetic comprises the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight:
phase A: the balance of water, 0.15 part of carbomer, 0.05 part of sclerotium gum, 0.05 part of sodium hyaluronate, 4 parts of glycerin, 3 parts of glycerin polyether-26 parts, 3 parts of butanediol, 0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.5 part of 1, 2-hexanediol;
and B phase: arginine 0.15 parts;
and C phase: 2.5 parts of dendrobium candidum fermentation product, 0.5 part of arbutin and 0.5 part of nicotinamide.
In addition, the invention provides a preparation method of the cosmetic, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Heating the phase A to 80-85 ℃, homogenizing until no obvious particles exist, and then preserving heat and stirring to obtain a mixed solution X;
(2) Cooling the mixed solution X to 60 ℃, and adding the phase B material to obtain a mixed solution Y;
(3) Cooling the mixed solution Y to below 45 ℃, and adding the C-phase material to obtain the cosmetic.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that: after the dendrobium candidum fermentation product and the arbutin are cooperated, the activity of the aminopeptidase can be better inhibited, the nicotinamide can interfere the synthesis of melanin, the generated melanin is prevented from being transported to the epidermis layer, the metabolism of the epidermis layer is quickened, cells containing the melanin are enabled to fall off, and the dendrobium candidum fermentation product, the arbutin and the nicotinamide are compounded for use, so that a better synergy effect can be achieved.
Detailed Description
For a better description of the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to the following specific examples. In the examples, the experimental methods used are conventional methods unless otherwise specified, and the materials, reagents, etc. used, unless otherwise specified, are commercially available.
Examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 3
The components and weight parts of the essence are shown in table 1, and the total weight part is 100 parts; a preparation method of essence comprises the following steps:
(1) Heating the phase A to 80-85 ℃, homogenizing until no obvious particles exist, and then preserving heat and stirring to obtain a mixed solution X;
(2) Cooling the mixed solution X to 60 ℃, and adding the phase B material to obtain a mixed solution Y;
(3) Cooling the mixed solution Y to below 45 ℃, and adding the C-phase material to obtain the cosmetic.
The preparation method of the dendrobium officinale fermentation product in the embodiment of the invention comprises the following steps:
(1) Pulverizing Dendrobium officinale, sieving with a 60-mesh sieve to obtain powder, and mixing 75g of Dendrobium officinale powder with purified water according to a mass ratio of 1:40, obtaining uniform feed liquid, and homogenizing the feed liquid by using high-pressure micro-jet equipment;
(2) Pouring the prepared feed liquid into a fermentation tank, and sterilizing at 121 ℃ for 30min in a high-pressure steam sterilizing pot;
(3) Cooling the fermentation tank to 37 ℃, and adding Saccharomyces cerevisiae Saccharomyces cerevisiae, wherein the volume ratio of the addition amount to the feed liquid is 1:35;
(4) The fermentation process is carried out according to the following steps:
a01 fermentation earlier stage: the fermentation time is 13h, and the rotating speed in the fermentation process is 100rpm/min;
a02 middle fermentation stage I: the fermentation time is 35 hours, and the rotating speed is 200rpm/min in the fermentation process; the content of dissolved oxygen is 5-6%;
a03 middle fermentation stage II: the fermentation time is 32h, and the rotating speed is 150rpm/min in the fermentation process; the content of dissolved oxygen is 5-6%;
a04 late fermentation stage: the fermentation time is 16 hours, and the rotating speed is 150rpm/min in the fermentation process;
(5) After fermentation is completed, placing the fermentation liquor into a steam sterilization pot for sterilization, wherein the temperature is 121 ℃ and the time is 30min;
(6) And (5) detecting fermentation products.
Wherein Saccharomyces cerevisiae Saccharomyces cerevisiae is purchased and the manufacturer is Guangzhou City microbiological institute.
TABLE 1
Performance test 1 melanin content and inhibition ratio
Test standard: T/SHRH 036/2021 cosmetic melanin inhibition test-zebra fish embryo test method
The testing process comprises the following steps: 24 zebra fish embryos 6-8 hours old are exposed to the sample solution, a blank control group (fish embryo culture solution) and a positive control group (30 mg/L phenylthiourea) are simultaneously arranged, and after being exposed for 48 hours in a constant temperature incubator at 28+/-1 ℃, the fish embryos are subjected to microscopic photographing to measure melanin signal intensity and are subjected to statistical analysis.
(1) Preparing a fish embryo culture solution: 2940mg of anhydrous calcium chloride, 1233mg of magnesium sulfate heptahydrate, 630mg of sodium bicarbonate and 55mg of potassium chloride are weighed and dissolved in 10L of water to prepare the calcium chloride. The pH value is 6.5-8.5. Chemicals were all analytically pure grade. (2) Preparing phenylthiourea working solution: 15mg of phenylthiourea is weighed and dissolved in 10mL of water to prepare the fish embryo culture solution, the phenylthiourea storage solution is diluted 50 times, and 5mL of the fish embryo culture solution is freshly prepared before use. (3) Sample solution: 1g of the sample is weighed and diluted with fish embryo culture solution to three concentrations of 6.3g/L, 12.5g/L and 25 g/L.
The melanin inhibition rate was calculated: inhibition ratio = (average value of "average signal intensity" of blank control group-average value of "average signal intensity" of sample solution)/(average value of "average signal intensity" of blank control group-average value of "average signal intensity" of positive control group) ×100%.
Test results: as shown in table 2.
TABLE 2
As can be seen from table 2, the two-tailed T test was performed on the melanin signal intensity of the fish embryo of the subject treated group and the melanin signal intensity of the blank group to obtain the P value, and when the melanin inhibition rate was positive and there was a statistical difference (P < 0.05), it was demonstrated that the subject had the melanin inhibition effect.
As shown in table 2, the essence prepared by the embodiment of the invention has very remarkable melanin inhibiting effect.
Performance test 2 human whitening test
Test standard: cosmetic safety technical Specification (2015 edition) eighth chapter human efficacy evaluation test method 5 cosmetic freckle-removing and whitening efficacy test method.
The testing process comprises the following steps: 1) And (3) performing blackening and modeling on the back of the subject, adopting a xenon arc lamp sunlight simulator which has continuous spectrum radiation and can generate ultraviolet rays with UVA and UVB wavelengths to irradiate 1 time per day at the same irradiation point according to the dose of 0.75 times of MED (minimum erythema), continuously irradiating for 4 days, and removing the region with the difference between the ITA degree value (individual type angle and parameters representing the skin color of the human body) and the average value of all the test regions of more than 5 after blackening for 4 days.
2) Selecting a normal skin area with a sample application area of 3 x 3cm, wherein the sample application amount is 2.00+/-0.05 mg/cm 2 The test objects are continuously smeared for 4 weeks, and the test objects are smeared in eight areas at random: (1) skin was not coated with test substance (negative control group); (2) coating positive control (positive control group); (3) test object groups (six sample groups) were coated.
3) The MI value and the ITA degree value of melanin of the tested part are tested respectively at 1,2, 3 and 4 weeks before and after the application, and the interval of each tested part is not less than 1.0cm.
4) Data analysis: the change rate of the MI value ITA degree value of the test product at any time point before and after the application is reduced compared with that of the negative control, the test product is considered to have the freckle removing and whitening effects, otherwise, the test product is considered to have no freckle removing and whitening effects.
Calculating the change rate: rate of change = (value of N days-value of 0 days)/data of 0 days 100%
Test results: MI values are shown in Table 3, and ITA values are shown in Table 4.
TABLE 3 Table 3
TABLE 4 Table 4
As shown in the table above, the essence prepared by the embodiment of the invention has good freckle removing and whitening effects. The weight parts of the dendrobium candidum fermentation product, the arbutin and the nicotinamide have great influence on the finally prepared cosmetics, and when the 2.5 parts of the dendrobium candidum fermentation product, the 0.5 part of the arbutin and the 0.5 part of the nicotinamide are adopted, the whitening effect of the prepared cosmetics is optimal.
Performance test 3 tyrosinase inhibition rate test
Test criteria and procedure: the positive control is 1mg/ml arbutin standard (purity is not less than 98%), the sample solution is chemically reacted for 3.5h at 20 ℃, and the absorbance is measured at 475 nm. Tyrosinase inhibition rates were calculated as follows:
tyrosinase inhibition rate (%) = [1- (C-D)/(a-B) ] x 100
Test results: as shown in table 5.
TABLE 5
The essence prepared by the embodiment of the invention has good effect of inhibiting the neuraminidase, and the essence prepared by the embodiment of the invention has good whitening effect. The inventor discovers that the weight parts of the dendrobium candidum fermentation product, the arbutin and the nicotinamide have great influence on the finally prepared cosmetics, and when the dendrobium candidum fermentation product is 2.5 parts, the arbutin is 0.5 part and the nicotinamide is 0.5 part, the prepared cosmetics have the highest inhibition rate of the aminopeptidase.
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only for illustrating the technical solution of the present invention and not for limiting the scope of the present invention, and although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that the technical solution of the present invention may be modified or substituted equally without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solution of the present invention.
Claims (6)
1. The whitening composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 2.5 parts of dendrobium candidum fermentation product, 0.5 part of arbutin and 0.5 part of nicotinamide; the dendrobium candidum fermentation product is obtained by fermenting saccharomyces cerevisiae; the fermentation method of the dendrobium candidum fermentation product comprises the following steps: (1) grinding dendrobium candidum; (2) sterilizing I; (3) strain implantation; (4) fermenting; (5) sterilization II; (6) fermentation product detection; the specific process of the step (1) is as follows: pulverizing Dendrobium officinale, sieving with a 30-80 mesh sieve to obtain powder, and mixing the powder with purified water according to a mass ratio of 1: uniformly mixing the materials in the proportion of (30-50) to obtain uniform material liquid, and homogenizing the material liquid by using high-pressure micro-jet equipment; the fermentation process in the step (4) has the following specific conditions: the fermentation time is 70-96h, the rotating speed is 80-280rpm/min in the fermentation process, and the dissolved oxygen content in the fermentation process is 5-10%.
2. Use of the whitening composition according to claim 1 in cosmetics.
3. A cosmetic comprising the whitening composition of claim 1.
4. The cosmetic is characterized by being essence, and comprises the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight:
phase A: the balance of water, 0.1-0.2 part of carbomer, 0.05-0.1 part of sclerotium rolfsii, 0.05-0.1 part of sodium hyaluronate, 3-5 parts of glycerin, 3-8 parts of glycerin polyether-26, 3-8 parts of butanediol, 0.5-1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.5-1 part of 1, 2-hexanediol;
and B phase: 0.1-0.2 part of arginine;
and C phase: 2.5 parts of dendrobium candidum fermentation product, 0.5 part of arbutin and 0.5 part of nicotinamide; the dendrobium candidum fermentation product is obtained by fermenting saccharomyces cerevisiae; the fermentation method of the dendrobium candidum fermentation product comprises the following steps: (1) grinding dendrobium candidum; (2) sterilizing I; (3) strain implantation; (4) fermenting; (5) sterilization II; (6) fermentation product detection; the specific process of the step (1) is as follows: pulverizing Dendrobium officinale, sieving with a 30-80 mesh sieve to obtain powder, and mixing the powder with purified water according to a mass ratio of 1: uniformly mixing the materials in the proportion of (30-50) to obtain uniform material liquid, and homogenizing the material liquid by using high-pressure micro-jet equipment; the fermentation process in the step (4) has the following specific conditions: the fermentation time is 70-96h, the rotating speed is 80-280rpm/min in the fermentation process, and the dissolved oxygen content in the fermentation process is 5-10%.
5. The cosmetic according to claim 4, comprising the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight:
phase A: the balance of water, 0.15 part of carbomer, 0.05 part of sclerotium gum, 0.05 part of sodium hyaluronate, 4 parts of glycerin, 3 parts of glycerin polyether-26 parts, 3 parts of butanediol, 0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.5 part of 1, 2-hexanediol;
and B phase: arginine 0.15 parts;
and C phase: 2.5 parts of dendrobium candidum fermentation product, 0.5 part of arbutin and 0.5 part of nicotinamide.
6. A method for preparing a cosmetic according to claim 4 or 5, comprising the steps of:
(1) Heating the phase A to 80-85 ℃, homogenizing until no obvious particles exist, and then preserving heat and stirring to obtain a mixed solution X;
(2) Cooling the mixed solution X to 60 ℃, and adding the phase B material to obtain a mixed solution Y;
(3) Cooling the mixed solution Y to below 45 ℃, and adding the C-phase material to obtain the cosmetic.
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