CN115252465B - Oil-control, soothing and skin-care composition, cosmetic and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Oil-control, soothing and skin-care composition, cosmetic and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN115252465B
CN115252465B CN202210955687.9A CN202210955687A CN115252465B CN 115252465 B CN115252465 B CN 115252465B CN 202210955687 A CN202210955687 A CN 202210955687A CN 115252465 B CN115252465 B CN 115252465B
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soothing
oil control
skin care
oil
skin
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CN115252465A (en
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王晓娜
郭海姣
徐佩佩
袁春颖
杨素珍
张辉
王倩
韩婷婷
郭芳钰
王兴凯
陈玉荣
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Shandong Furida Biological Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008Preparations for oily skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02ATECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and provides an oil-control, soothing and skin-care composition, a cosmetic, a preparation method and application thereof. The oil control and skin care composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-1.0 part of zinc hyaluronate, 1.0-20 parts of wild sunflower seed extract and 1.0-20 parts of radix peucedani extract. The oil control effect is achieved through the multi-channel effect by inhibiting the activities of 5 alpha-reductase and COX2 factors, and the relief effect is achieved through the activities of IL-1 alpha, TNF-a and PGE2 factors. The oil-control, soothing and skin-care cosmetic solves the problem that the existing oil-control, soothing and skin-care cosmetic is poor in oil-control and soothing effect, and therefore has good practical popularization and application values.

Description

Oil-control, soothing and skin-care composition, cosmetic and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to an oil-control, soothing and skin-care composition, a cosmetic, a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
The disclosure of this background section is only intended to increase the understanding of the general background of the invention and is not necessarily to be construed as an admission or any form of suggestion that this information forms the prior art already known to those of ordinary skill in the art.
Sebum is produced by sebaceous gland cells in the skin and then secreted to the skin surface, and a sebum film formed by sebum and sweat on the surface of the human body is one of important components of the first barrier of the human body, and the normal sebum secretion amount is very important for maintaining the health state of the skin. Excessive secretion of skin grease can cause bad appearance and uncomfortable touch feeling of the skin, excessive sebum is distributed on the surface of the skin, dust is easy to stain, normal functions are exerted to a certain extent, and certain degree of trouble is brought to daily life activities for people. Thus, oil control is an important solution to treat such skin problems, and conditioning of oily skin is one of the problems many consumers seek to improve.
Abnormal sebaceous gland secretion is usually caused by hyperandrogens, testosterone and Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) are androgens, and DHT is 5-10 times more active than testosterone. 5α -reductase is a direct catalytic enzyme in the process of converting testosterone into DHT, and expression of DHT affects proliferation and differentiation of sebaceous gland cells, thereby causing excessive secretion of grease from sebaceous glands.
Factors such as environment, UVB, hormone and the like can induce the expression of cyclooxygenase-2 (COX 2), COX2 is a key rate-limiting enzyme in the synthesis process of Prostaglandin (PGs), COX2 catalyzes arachidonic acid (arachidonic acid) to generate PGs, the synthesized PGD2 and an intermediate product are endogenous ligands of peroxide proliferation activating receptor gamma (PPARgamma), and the activation of PPARgamma cooperates with the formation of heterodimers of retinoid receptor (RXR) to initiate the expression of a series of target genes, so that the proliferation of sebaceous cells and the increase of sebum secretion are stimulated.
Excessive secretion of grease can cause pressure increase in the catheter to form a low-oxygen environment, propionibacterium acnes grow in the low-oxygen environment, and the keratinocytes are stimulated to generate pro-inflammatory factors IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha and inflammatory mediators PGE2, and when the catheter is ruptured, the release can cause strong local reaction of an innate immune system, and various degrees of itching, burning, stinging, erythema and the like are generated.
The inventor finds that although a large number of cosmetics with the oil control and relief effects are promoted in the market at present, the problems of poor oil control and relief effects, complex production and preparation process, high price and the like generally exist.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide an oil-control, soothing and skin-care composition, a cosmetic, a preparation method and application thereof. Proved by experiments, the composition and the cosmetic provided by the invention have strong capability of inhibiting grease secretion and relieving skin, so that the composition and the cosmetic have good practical popularization and application values.
In order to achieve the technical purpose, the technical scheme provided by the invention is as follows:
in a first aspect, the invention provides an oil control and skin care composition, which comprises the following components in parts by weight:
0.1-1.0 part of zinc hyaluronate, 1-20 parts of wild sunflower fruit extract and 1-20 parts of radix peucedani extract.
Wherein the molecular weight of the zinc hyaluronate is controlled to be 40-80 Da, and the preferred molecular weight of the zinc hyaluronate is 50-70 Da.
The wild sunflower fruit extract can be obtained in a commercial mode, and in a specific embodiment of the invention, the wild sunflower fruit extract is prepared by the following method:
s1, crushing and sieving the wild sunflower fruits, and obtaining a wild sunflower fruit percolate by using ethanol as a solvent through a percolation method;
s2, distilling and concentrating the wild sunflower fruit percolate obtained in the step S1, and then adding glycerol into the distilled and concentrated wild sunflower fruit percolate.
The radix peucedani extract can also be obtained in a commercial mode, and in a specific embodiment of the invention, the radix peucedani extract is prepared by the following method:
s1, crushing and sieving peucedanum praeruptorum, soaking the crushed peucedanum praeruptorum in ethanol for ultrasonic extraction, filtering, collecting filtrate, repeatedly extracting filter residues for 2-3 times, and combining the obtained filtrate;
s2, concentrating the filtrate obtained in the step S1 under reduced pressure, recovering ethanol until no ethanol smell exists, adding butanediol, stirring uniformly, and filtering to obtain the product.
In a second aspect of the invention, there is provided the use of the above composition for the preparation of a cosmetic for controlling oil, soothing skin. Experiments prove that the composition can inhibit COX2 activity by inhibiting 5 alpha-reductase activity, thereby achieving the effects of effectively inhibiting grease secretion and controlling oil; simultaneously, the activity of IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha and PGE2 inflammatory factors can be inhibited externally, so that an excellent relieving effect is achieved; meanwhile, the cosmetic is safe and has no toxic or side effect, so that the cosmetic can be applied to cosmetics for controlling oil, relieving and protecting skin.
Accordingly, in a third aspect of the present invention, there is provided an oil-controlling, soothing and skin-protecting cosmetic comprising the above composition.
The oil control soothing skin care cosmetic may also contain any other ingredients that the cosmetic art allows to add, including but not limited to emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizers, thickeners, and the like.
Meanwhile, different cosmetic formulations such as essence water, essence cream and essence cream can be prepared by reasonably adding the raw material components, and meanwhile, the obtained cosmetic products are further derived and prepared based on the basic cosmetic products, which obviously belong to the protection scope of the application.
In a fourth aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method for preparing the oil-controlling, soothing and skin-care cosmetic described above, comprising the step of mixing a composition comprising the composition described in the first aspect above with other raw material components.
In a fifth aspect of the invention there is provided the use of the above composition and/or cosmetic in oil control, soothing and skin care.
The beneficial technical effects of one or more of the technical schemes are as follows:
the oil control and relieving skin care cosmetic obtained by the technical scheme has excellent oil control capability and relieving capability effect; the activity of COX2 is inhibited by inhibiting the activity of 5 alpha-reductase in vitro, so that the effects of effectively inhibiting the secretion of grease and controlling the oil are achieved; the excellent relieving effect is achieved by inhibiting the activities of IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha and PGE2 inflammatory factors in vitro; further, through the experimental test of human body efficacy, the cosmetic has good oil control and relieving functions and obvious efficacy.
Meanwhile, the preparation method of the oil-control skin-care cosmetics with relief effect is simple and easy to implement, raw materials are easy to obtain, and the oil-control skin-care cosmetics are suitable for mass production, so that the oil-control skin-care cosmetics have good practical application value.
Drawings
In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the drawings required for the description of the embodiments will be briefly described below, and it is obvious that the drawings in the following description are only embodiments of the present invention, and that other drawings may be obtained according to the provided drawings without inventive effort for a person skilled in the art.
Fig. 1: the effect of different test samples on 5α -reductase activity (# # indicates p <0.01 compared to the blank control; x indicates p <0.01 compared to the negative control)
Fig. 2: bar graph of lipid drop synthetic oil red O staining results for test samples (# # indicates p <0.01 compared to blank control;: < p <0.01 compared to negative control
Fig. 3: skin lipid content measurement after application of the product (P < 0.001)
Fig. 4: comparison of skin lipid content changes after application of the product (P < 0.001)
Fig. 5: skin relief change after application of the product.
Detailed Description
It should be noted that the following detailed description is illustrative and is intended to provide further explanation of the invention. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs.
It is noted that the terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of example embodiments in accordance with the present application. As used herein, the singular is also intended to include the plural unless the context clearly indicates otherwise, and furthermore, it is to be understood that the terms "comprises" and/or "comprising" when used in this specification are taken to specify the presence of stated features, steps, operations, devices, components, and/or combinations thereof.
In one exemplary embodiment of the invention, an oil control and soothing skin care composition is provided, which comprises the following components in parts by weight:
0.1-1.0 part of zinc hyaluronate, 1-20 parts of wild sunflower fruit extract and 1-20 parts of radix peucedani extract.
Experiments prove that the combination of the zinc hyaluronate, the wild sunflower seed extract and the radix peucedani extract has good oil control and relief effects, and can be used for improving oily skin problems in cosmetics.
Wherein the molecular weight of the zinc hyaluronate is controlled to be 40-80 Da, and the preferred molecular weight of the zinc hyaluronate is 50-70 Da.
The wild sunflower fruit extract can be obtained in a commercial mode, and in a specific embodiment of the invention, the wild sunflower fruit extract is prepared by the following method:
s1, crushing and sieving the wild sunflower fruits, and obtaining a wild sunflower fruit percolate by using ethanol as a solvent through a percolation method;
s2, distilling and concentrating the wild sunflower fruit percolate obtained in the step S1, and then adding glycerol into the distilled and concentrated wild sunflower fruit percolate.
Wherein,,
in the step S1, a 60-100 mesh sieve, such as 60, 70, 80, 90 or 100 mesh sieve is selected for sieving treatment; in one embodiment of the invention, the sieving treatment is an 80 mesh sieve.
The specific method for obtaining the wild sunflower fruit percolate by using ethanol as a solvent by adopting a percolation method comprises the following steps:
placing the crushed and sieved wild sunflower seed powder into a percolating cylinder, adding 30% -70% (preferably 50%) ethanol with the amount of 3-8 times (preferably 5 times) of the wild sunflower seed powder, soaking for 6-12 h, collecting 10-20 times (preferably 15 times) of the percolate of the wild sunflower seed powder at the flow rate of 7-10mL/min, and filtering to obtain filtrate.
In the step S2, distillation and concentration are specifically carried out by adopting reduced pressure distillation treatment at 55-65 ℃, when the residual amount of the filtrate is 1/6-1/3 (preferably 1/5) of the original filtrate, glycerol with the amount of 1-1.5 times of the residual concentrated solution is added, and the mixture is stirred uniformly and filtered to obtain the product.
The radix peucedani extract can also be obtained in a commercial mode, and in a specific embodiment of the invention, the radix peucedani extract is prepared by the following method:
s1, crushing and sieving peucedanum praeruptorum, soaking the crushed peucedanum praeruptorum in ethanol for ultrasonic extraction, filtering, collecting filtrate, repeatedly extracting filter residues for 2-3 times, and combining the obtained filtrate;
s2, concentrating the filtrate obtained in the step S1 under reduced pressure, recovering ethanol until no ethanol smell exists, adding butanediol, stirring uniformly, and filtering to obtain the product.
Wherein,,
in the step S1, a 30-60 mesh sieve, such as 30, 40, 50 or 60 mesh sieve is selected for sieving treatment; in one embodiment of the invention, a 50 mesh screen is selected for the screening process.
The ethanol is 60-85% ethanol, the feed liquid ratio (w/w) is 1:8-1:10, and the ethanol is soaked for 10-30min (preferably 20 min); the ultrasonic power is 100-300W (preferably 200W) in the ultrasonic extraction process, and the ultrasonic treatment time is 30-40min;
in the step S2, the reduced pressure concentration is specifically carried out by carrying out reduced pressure distillation treatment at 50-60 ℃, recovering ethanol until no alcohol smell exists to obtain a peucedanum praeruptorum concentrated solution, adding butanediol with the mass of 2-2.5 times of that of the peucedanum praeruptorum concentrated solution, stirring uniformly, and filtering to obtain the finished product.
In another specific embodiment of the invention, the oil control and skin relief composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:
0.3 part of zinc hyaluronate, 10 parts of wild sunflower fruit extract and 10 parts of radix peucedani extract.
In a second aspect of the invention, there is provided the use of the above composition for the preparation of a cosmetic for controlling oil, soothing skin. Experiments prove that the composition can inhibit COX2 activity by inhibiting 5 alpha-reductase activity, thereby achieving the effects of effectively inhibiting grease secretion and controlling oil; simultaneously, the activity of IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha and PGE2 inflammatory factors can be inhibited externally, so that an excellent relieving effect is achieved; meanwhile, the cosmetic is safe and has no toxic or side effect, so that the cosmetic can be applied to cosmetics for controlling oil, relieving and protecting skin.
Accordingly, in yet another embodiment of the present invention, there is provided an oil-controlling, soothing and skin-protecting cosmetic comprising the above composition.
The oil-controlling and skin-soothing cosmetic according to the present invention is added in an amount of 0.5 to 40%, preferably 2 to 25%, such as 2%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30% or 40% based on the total mass of the oil-controlling and skin-soothing cosmetic.
The oil control soothing skin care cosmetic may also contain any other ingredients that the cosmetic art allows to add, including but not limited to emulsifiers, emollients, moisturizers, thickeners, and the like.
In a further embodiment of the present invention, the emulsifier is added in an amount of 1 to 6%, preferably in an amount of 2 to 5% based on the total mass of the oil control soothing skin care cosmetic; the addition amount of the emollient is 6-25%, and the preferable addition amount is 8-20%; the addition amount of the humectant is 2-15%, and the preferable addition amount is 5-12%; the thickener is added in an amount of 0.02-1.0%, preferably 0.05-0.8%.
In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the oil control and soothing skin care cosmetic according to the present invention, the emulsifier comprises any one or a combination of two or more of polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-3 bee wax esters, C14-22 alcohols, C12-20 alkyl glucosides, cetostearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, hydrogenated lecithin, inulin lauryl carbamate, sodium bis (lauramide glutamine) lysine, sodium surfactin.
In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the oil control relief skin care cosmetic according to the present invention comprises any one or a combination of two or more of isononyl isononanoate, squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, monkey-tree seed oil, berhard walnut seed oil, white pool seed oil, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethicone, isododecane, tri (ethylhexanoic) glyceride, behenyl alcohol, shea butter, dioctyl carbonate, tocopheryl acetate.
In still another embodiment of the present invention, the oil-controlling and soothing skin care cosmetic according to the present invention, the moisturizer comprises any one or a combination of two or more of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, ethylhexyl glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, and trehalose.
In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the oil control and soothing skin care cosmetic according to the present invention, the thickener comprises any one or a combination of two or more of sodium polyacrylate, carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6.
Meanwhile, different cosmetic formulations such as essence water, essence cream and essence cream can be prepared by reasonably adding the raw material components, and meanwhile, the obtained cosmetic products are further derived and prepared based on the basic cosmetic products, which obviously belong to the protection scope of the application.
In still another embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a method for preparing the oil-controlling and soothing skin-care cosmetic described above, comprising the step of mixing the composition comprising the above first aspect with other raw material components.
In yet another embodiment of the present invention, there is provided the use of the above composition and/or cosmetic for oil control, soothing and skin care.
The invention is further illustrated below with reference to examples. The invention is further illustrated by means of the following examples, which are not intended to limit the invention thereto. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, any changes to the present invention without making any creative changes to the present invention fall within the protection scope of the present invention. Meanwhile, in the examples of the present invention, all the preparation materials are commercially available products well known to those skilled in the art unless otherwise specified.
Examples
An oil-controlling and skin-caring composition comprises zinc hyaluronate, herba Abelmoschi Manihot fruit extract and radix Peucedani extract.
Wherein the molecular weight of the zinc hyaluronate is 50 ten thousand Da.
The obtaining method of the wild sunflower fruit extract comprises the following steps:
(1) Pulverizing dry fructus Mali Pumilae, sieving with 80 mesh sieve, placing fructus Mali Pumilae powder in a percolating cylinder, adding 5 times of 50% ethanol, soaking for 10 hr, collecting 15 times of percolate extract of fructus Mali Pumilae powder at 8mL/min, and filtering.
(2) Placing the wild sunflower fruit percolate obtained in the step (1) in a rotary evaporator, vacuumizing, distilling under reduced pressure at 60 ℃, adding glycerol with the mass 1.5 times of that of the concentrated solution when the filtrate is evaporated to one fifth, stirring uniformly, and filtering to obtain the wild sunflower fruit extract.
The method for obtaining the extract of the peucedanum praeruptorum dunn comprises the following steps:
(1) Pulverizing dried radix Peucedani, sieving with 50 mesh sieve, pulverizing radix Peucedani Hu Jinpao, soaking in 70% ethanol at a mass ratio of 1:9 for 20min, extracting under ultrasonic power of 200W for 30min, filtering, collecting filtrate, repeatedly extracting the residue twice, and mixing the three filtrates.
(2) Placing the filtrate obtained in the step (1) in a rotary evaporator, vacuumizing, distilling under reduced pressure at 60 ℃, recovering ethanol until no alcohol smell exists, adding 2.5 times of butanediol in the radix peucedani concentrate, stirring uniformly, and filtering to obtain the radix peucedani extract.
Examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4 preparation methods: mixing zinc hyaluronate, herba Abelmoschi Manihot extract and radix Peucedani extract, and dissolving in purified water. The specific scheme is shown in the following table 1, calculated as mass ratio.
Table 1 list of specific examples and comparative examples
Example 4 essence Water
The formula of the essence aquatic product containing the oil-controlling and soothing skin-care composition is shown in table 2.
Table 2 essential aquatic product formulation
The preparation method of the essence water comprises the following steps:
s1: respectively adding the raw materials in the phase A, heating to 85 ℃ and stirring for dissolution;
s2: after the dissolution is completed, cooling is started, the components in the phase B are respectively added when the temperature is reduced to 45 ℃, and stirring, dissolution and uniform dispersion are carried out;
s3: when the temperature is reduced to 40 ℃, the C phase component is added in sequence, and the essence aquatic product is obtained after stirring, dissolving and dispersing uniformly.
Comparative example 5 was prepared as in example 4 except that comparative example 5 did not contain an oil control skin soothing and care composition and the amount of oil control skin soothing and care composition in example 4 was made up by adding water.
Example 5 essence emulsion
The oil control and skin care composition is applied to prepare an essence milk product containing the oil control and skin care composition, and the formula is shown in table 3.
Table 3 essential milk product formulation
The preparation method of the essence emulsion comprises the following steps:
s1: preparation of an aqueous phase: respectively adding the raw materials in the phase A, heating to 85 ℃ and stirring for dissolution;
s2: preparation of an oil phase: respectively adding the raw materials in the phase B, heating to 80 ℃ and melting;
s3: mixing phase A and phase B, homogenizing (3000 rpm) for 12min;
s4: after homogenization, adding phase C, stirring uniformly, and starting to cool;
s5: adding phase D when the temperature is reduced to 70 ℃, stirring and dissolving, and continuing to reduce the temperature after dissolving;
s6: and when the temperature is reduced to 45 ℃, sequentially adding the E phase component, stirring, dissolving and dispersing uniformly to obtain the essence milk product.
Example 6 essence cream
The oil control and skin care composition is applied to prepare an essence cream product containing the oil control and skin care composition, and the formula is shown in table 4.
Table 4 essential cream product formulation
The preparation method of the essence cream comprises the following steps:
s1: preparation of an aqueous phase: respectively adding the raw materials in the phase A, heating to 85 ℃ and stirring for dissolution;
s2: preparation of an oil phase: respectively adding the raw materials in the phase B, heating to 80 ℃ and melting;
s3: mixing phase A and phase B, homogenizing (3000 r/min), homogenizing for 12min;
s4: after homogenization, cooling is started, when the temperature is reduced to 70 ℃, adding the phase C, stirring and dissolving, and cooling is continued after the dissolution is completed;
s5: and when the temperature is reduced to 45 ℃, adding the phase D components in sequence, stirring, dissolving and dispersing uniformly to obtain the essence cream product.
Test example 1: safety test experiment
The product was subjected to eye irritation test, i.e., safety test, with reference to SN/T2329-2009 "cosmetic eye irritation/chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane test".
The experimental method comprises the following steps: fertilized chick embryos within 7 days of age are adopted to be incubated for 9 days in an incubator with humidity of 50% -70% at 37.6+/-0.5 ℃.
CAM preparation: egg candling is performed by marking the air chamber locations on the eggshell surface, and the labeled eggshell portions are peeled off with tweezers to expose the white eggshell membrane, taking care not to disrupt the integrity of the eggshell membrane. 0.5mL of 0.9% NaCl solution is added dropwise to fully wet the egg membrane, surface liquid is gently sucked by a paper towel, and the inner membrane is carefully removed by forceps, so that the vascular membrane is not damaged.
Reaction end point method: and uniformly dripping or smearing 0.3mL of transparent test object on the surface of the CAM, washing the test object by using 0.9% NaCl solution after 3min of action, and observing the degree of each toxicity effect change of the CAM.
Endpoint scoring method (end point score ES): the end point score (ES) should be calculated for the test performed using the reaction end point method, with the result remaining two decimal places. Score per chick embryo = sum of extent of bleeding, clotting and vascular thawing observed per chick embryo, ES = mathematical sum of 6 chick embryo scores. The eye irritation of the test subjects was classified according to the ES values as shown in table 5.
TABLE 5 determination criteria for end-of-reaction results
Stimulation scoring ES≤12 12<ES<16 ES≥16
Irritation classification No/light irritation Moderate irritation Strong irritation/corrosiveness
The test results are shown in Table 6. The oil control, soothing and skin care compositions are non-irritating.
TABLE 6 statistical tables of results of irritation experiments
Test example 2: in vitro assay for inhibiting 5 alpha-reductase Activity
Testosterone is converted to Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) by 5α -reductase in the presence of NADPH, and DHT expression affects sebaceous cell proliferation and differentiation. Therefore, the inhibition effect of the object to be detected on the 5 alpha-reductase can be evaluated by measuring the content change of the substrate testosterone in the 5 alpha-reductase active reaction system by adopting an ultra-high performance liquid tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS).
The inhibition rate is calculated according to the formula: i (%) = [ (B-Q) - (B-R) ]/(B-Q) ×100.B represents testosterone content of a blank control group, Q represents testosterone content of a reaction group without inhibitor, and R represents testosterone content of a reaction group with inhibitor to be tested.
The original concentration of each component in the enzyme reaction system is respectively as follows: buffer solution [ Tris-HCl, pH 7.4]; NADPH concentration (10 mmol/L, sigma 93205); 5 alpha-reductase concentration is 10mg/mL; testosterone 4 μg/mL; dutasteride concentrations were 0.5mg/mL.
Table 7 liquid adding table for reaction system
And/represents without addition of corresponding substances
The test results are shown in FIG. 1, and each of example 1, example 2, example 3, comparative example 1, comparative example 2, comparative example 3 and comparative example 4 has a significant in vitro inhibition of 5α -reductase activity, with an inhibition rate of 69.44% for example 1, 87.75% for example 2, 78.03% for example 3, 44.16% for comparative example 1, 52.50% for comparative example 2, 54.68% for comparative example 3 and 5.22% for comparative example 4. The most obvious inhibition effect of the embodiment 2 shows that the oil control, relieving and skin care composition has obvious function of inhibiting 5 alpha-reductase activity, thereby achieving the oil control effect.
Test example 3: in vitro Activity assay for inhibiting IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha, COX2 and PGE2 factors
The ability of the test substance to inhibit the expression of the relevant cell pathway factors was evaluated by inducing mouse macrophages Raw264.7 with LPS (bacterial lipopolysaccharide) and detecting the expression levels of IL-1α, TNF- α, COX2 and PGE2 by ELISA. See table 8 for test protocols.
Table 8 test protocol
The test results are shown in tables 9-12.
TABLE 9 summary of IL-1 alpha content results
( And (3) injection: # represents p <0.01 compared to the blank; * Represents p <0.01 compared to negative control; * Represents 0.01< p <0.05 compared to the negative control. )
As can be seen from Table 9, examples 1,2,3 and comparative examples 1,2,3,4 each significantly inhibited IL-1α activity, and example 2 showed the most significant inhibition, but comparative examples 1,2,3,4 each had a lower inhibition than examples 1,2,3, and in particular comparative example 1 was much lower than example 2. The oil-control, soothing and skin-care composition can obviously inhibit the activity of IL-1 alpha.
TABLE 10 summary of TNF-alpha content results
( And (3) injection: # represents p <0.01 compared to the blank; * Represents p <0.01 compared to negative control; * Represents 0.01< p <0.05 compared to the negative control. )
As can be seen from Table 10, examples 1,2,3 and comparative examples 1,2,3,4 each significantly inhibited TNF-. Alpha.activity, but comparative examples 1,2,3,4 each inhibited less than examples 1,2,3, and particularly comparative example 1 was much lower than each example. The oil-control, soothing and skin-care composition can obviously inhibit the activity of TNF-alpha.
TABLE 11 summary of PGE2 content results
( And (3) injection: # represents p <0.01 compared to the blank; * Represents p <0.01 compared to negative control; * Represents 0.01< p <0.05 compared to the negative control. )
As can be seen from Table 11, examples 1,2,3 and comparative examples 1,2,3,4 each significantly inhibited PGE2 activity, and example 2 showed the most significant inhibition, but comparative examples 1,2,3,4 each had a lower inhibition than examples 1,2,3, and particularly comparative example 1 was much lower than each example. The oil control, soothing and skin care composition is shown to significantly inhibit the activity of PGE 2.
TABLE 12 summary of COX2 content results
( And (3) injection: # represents p <0.01 compared to the blank; * Represents p <0.01 compared to negative control; * Represents 0.01< p <0.05 compared to the negative control. )
As can be seen from Table 12, examples 1,2,3 and comparative examples 1,2 and 3 each significantly inhibited COX2 activity, with example 2 having the most significant inhibition, but comparative example 4 having no significant inhibition, and comparative examples 1,2 and 3 being much lower than each example. The oil-control, soothing and skin-care composition is shown to significantly inhibit COX2 activity.
From the results, the oil control, relief and skin care composition can obviously inhibit the activities of IL-1 alpha, TNF-alpha, COX2 and PGE2 factors and has a certain oil control, relief and skin care effect.
Test example 4: in vitro oil control experiment of example 4
The test evaluates the oil control efficacy of the test article by detecting the lipid drop content of the sample on sebaceous gland cell SZ 95.
According to the test scheme of Table 13, when the cell plating rate in the 24-well plate reaches 40% -50%, group administration is carried out, 1mL of sample is added to each well, and 3 compound wells are arranged in each group. After completion of the administration, the 24-well plate was placed in an incubator (37 ℃, 5% co 2) and cultured for 24 hours.
Oil red O staining: the old solution was aspirated, the cells were washed 1 time with PBS, 500. Mu.L of oil red O working solution (1. Mu.g/mL) was added to each well, stained in the dark for 15min (incubation at 37 ℃ C.) and washed 2 times with PBS.
The oil control ability was evaluated based on the OD value of the fat drop synthetic oil red O staining results. Lower OD values indicate less secreted oil content and greater oil control.
Inhibition ratio calculation formula = (NC group OD value-sample OD value)/NC group OD value 100%
Table 13 test plan design
The test results are shown in fig. 2, the OD value of example 4 is significantly lower than that of the negative control group (NC group), the inhibition rate is 12.63%, and the oil control effect is significant, so that the oil control soothing skin care composition product has a certain oil control capability.
Test example 5: example 4 Effect in controlling oil on human skin
The oil control effect on human skin was evaluated on the basis of the essential water product of example 4.
The method refers to: T/ZHCA 002-2018, cosmetic oil control efficacy test method.
30 healthy female/male volunteers aged 18-50 years old were selected, whose skin oil content Sebum was not less than 120 (. Mu.g/cm) 2 )。
Test item
Where T0 means that the subject is not using the sample, T2 means that the subject is using the sample for 2 hours once, T4 means that the subject is using the sample for 4 hours once, and T8 means that the subject is using the sample for 8 hours once.
Comparative example 5 was selected for the experimental blank.
The detection method comprises the following steps:
1) The sample areas and the blank areas are randomly distributed on the left and right sides of the forehead, so that the positions of all the sample areas and the blank areas are ensured to reach equilibrium statistically;
2) 0.5g of test sample is smeared on a measurement area, cleaning is not needed, and a control sample is smeared in a blank area;
3) The measurement of the sample area and the blank area was performed in a skin grease meter, and each area was measured in parallel 3 times. Measuring initial values of all test areas (before using samples), and then measuring skin grease contents of a sample area and a blank area after using the samples for 2 hours, 4 hours and 8 hours;
4) Testing of the same subject must be accomplished by the same measurement personnel using the same instrument;
the test should be terminated immediately during the use of the sample as the skin of the volunteer develops an adverse reaction, and the volunteer is appropriately treated and the adverse reaction is recorded.
The grease inhibition rate calculation formula: (blank area increment-sample area increment)/blank area increment 100%
Test results:
the test results are shown in fig. 3 and 4, and the skin oil increment of the sample is significantly improved compared with the blank area of the control sample after 2 hours, 4 hours and 8 hours of single use of the sample. The inhibition rate after two hours of using the sample is 21.46%, the inhibition rate after 4 hours of using the sample is 22.55%, the inhibition rate after 8 hours of using the sample is 18.42%,
the results show that: the essential oil product of example 4 was able to improve skin oil secretion and had an oil control effect for 8 hours, indicating that the essential oil product containing the oil control soothing skin care composition had a remarkable oil control effect.
Test example 6: example 4 soothing Effect on human skin
Example 4 essence water product prepared was tested for human skin efficacy and product testing was conducted on 30 volunteers 18-40 years old (skin condition: skin sensitivity (lactic acid stinging positive)).
Detection time: trial product for 14 days, 28 days;
detection equipment: VISIA skin Detector (CanField Co., USA).
The test collects pictures of the face of a subject under the left, middle and right three standard light 1, standard light 2 and 3 light sources of cross polarized light and derives red region pictures under the cross polarized light. And carrying out image analysis on the red region picture to obtain a quantitative index red region analysis a, wherein the quantitative index red region analysis a is used for evaluating improvement conditions of redness and sensitivity states of facial skin.
Test results:
pictures of red area changes in front and rear faces of the samples were used for 2 subjects as exemplified in fig. 5.
Table 14-1 red area analysis a descriptive statistics (n=30) of values
Table 14-2 red area analysis a statistical analysis results (n=30)
Statistical analysis results: "-": the difference has no statistical significance (P is more than or equal to 0.05); "*": the difference is statistically significant (P is more than or equal to 0.01 and less than or equal to 0.05); "**": the difference is statistically significant (P < 0.001); "***": the differences were statistically significant (P < 0.001).
Red area analysis a value test results show that compared with the test sample before use, the red area analysis a value is obviously reduced (0.01 less than or equal to P < 0.05) after 4 weeks of use, and the product containing the oil control and skin care composition has a soothing effect.
The results show that: the product containing the oil-control skin-soothing composition can achieve the effect of controlling oil and soothing skin, and has remarkable effect when being used in skin care products.
It should be noted that the above examples are only for illustrating the technical solution of the present invention and are not limiting thereof. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the examples given, those skilled in the art can make modifications and equivalents to the technical solutions of the present invention as required, without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims (18)

1. An oil control and skin care composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by mass:
0.1-1.0 part of zinc hyaluronate, 1-20 parts of wild sunflower fruit extract and 1-20 parts of radix peucedani extract;
the molecular weight of the zinc hyaluronate is controlled to be 40-80 Da;
the wild sunflower fruit extract is prepared by the following method:
s1, crushing and sieving the wild sunflower fruits, and obtaining a wild sunflower fruit percolate by using ethanol as a solvent through a percolation method;
s2, distilling and concentrating the wild sunflower fruit percolate obtained in the step S1, and then adding glycerol into the distilled and concentrated wild sunflower fruit percolate to obtain the wild sunflower fruit beverage;
in the step S1, a 60-100 mesh sieve is selected in the sieving treatment;
the specific method for obtaining the wild sunflower fruit percolate by using ethanol as a solvent by adopting a percolation method comprises the following steps:
placing the crushed and sieved wild sunflower seed powder into a percolating cylinder, adding 30% -70% ethanol with the amount of 3-8 times of the wild sunflower seed powder, soaking for 6-12 hours, collecting percolate with the amount of 10-20 times of the wild sunflower seed powder at the flow rate of 7-10mL/min, and filtering to obtain filtrate;
in the step S2, distillation and concentration are specifically carried out by adopting reduced pressure distillation treatment at 55-65 ℃, and when the filtrate is evaporated to 1/6-1/3 of the original filtrate, glycerol with 1-1.5 times of the residual concentrated solution is added, and the mixture is stirred uniformly and filtered to obtain the product;
the radix peucedani extract is prepared by the following method:
s1, crushing and sieving peucedanum praeruptorum, soaking the crushed peucedanum praeruptorum in ethanol for ultrasonic extraction, filtering, collecting filtrate, repeatedly extracting filter residues for 2-3 times, and combining the obtained filtrate;
s2, concentrating the filtrate obtained in the step S1 under reduced pressure, recovering ethanol until no ethanol smell exists, adding butanediol, uniformly stirring, and filtering to obtain the product;
in the step S1, a sieve with 30-60 meshes is selected for sieving treatment;
the ethanol is 60% -85% ethanol, the feed-liquid ratio is 1:8-1:10, and the mixture is soaked for 10-30min; the ultrasonic power is 100-300W in the ultrasonic extraction process, and the ultrasonic treatment time is 30-40min;
in the step S2, the reduced pressure concentration is specifically carried out by carrying out reduced pressure distillation treatment at 50-60 ℃, recovering ethanol until no alcohol smell exists to obtain a peucedanum praeruptorum concentrated solution, adding butanediol with the mass of 2-2.5 times of that of the peucedanum praeruptorum concentrated solution, stirring uniformly, and filtering to obtain the finished product.
2. The oil control, soothing and skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the zinc hyaluronate has a molecular weight of 50 to 70 kiloda.
3. The oil control, soothing and skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein the preparation method of the wild sunflower fruit extract comprises the step of screening the wild sunflower fruit extract by a 80-mesh screen;
the specific method for obtaining the wild sunflower fruit percolate by using ethanol as a solvent by adopting a percolation method comprises the following steps:
placing the crushed and sieved wild sunflower seed powder into a percolating cylinder, adding 5 times of 50% ethanol, soaking for 6-12 h, collecting 15 times of percolate of the wild sunflower seed powder at a flow rate of 7-10mL/min, and filtering to obtain filtrate;
in the step S2, distillation and concentration are specifically carried out by adopting reduced pressure distillation treatment at 55-65 ℃, and when the filtrate is evaporated to the residual amount of 1/5 of the original filtrate, glycerol with the amount of 1-1.5 times of the residual concentrated solution is added, and the mixture is stirred uniformly and filtered to obtain the product.
4. The oil control, soothing and skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein the step S1 of sieving is carried out by a 50 mesh sieve; the soaking time of the ethanol is 20min; the ultrasonic power in the ultrasonic extraction process is 200W.
5. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 for the preparation of a cosmetic product for controlling oil, soothing skin.
6. A cosmetic product for controlling oil, soothing skin, characterized in that it comprises a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4.
7. The oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the oil control, soothing and skin care composition is added in an amount of 0.5 to 40% based on the total mass of the oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic.
8. The oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic according to claim 7, wherein the oil control, soothing and skin care composition is added in an amount of 2 to 25% based on the total mass of the oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic.
9. The oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic according to claim 6, further comprising an emulsifier, an emollient, a humectant and a thickener.
10. The oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic according to claim 9, wherein the emulsifier is added in an amount of 1 to 6% based on the total mass of the oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic.
11. The oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic according to claim 10, wherein the emulsifier is added in an amount of 2 to 5% based on the total mass of the oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic.
12. The oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic according to claim 9, wherein the emollient is added in an amount of 6 to 25% based on the total mass of the oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic.
13. The oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic according to claim 12, wherein the emollient is added in an amount of 8 to 20% based on the total mass of the oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic.
14. The oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic according to claim 9, wherein the humectant is added in an amount of 2 to 15% based on the total mass of the oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic.
15. The oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic according to claim 14, wherein the humectant is added in an amount of 5 to 12% based on the total mass of the oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic.
16. The oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic according to claim 9, wherein the thickener is added in an amount of 0.02 to 1.0% based on the total mass of the oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic.
17. The oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic according to claim 16, wherein the thickener is added in an amount of 0.05 to 0.8% based on the total mass of the oil control, soothing and skin care cosmetic.
18. A method for preparing the oil-controlling, soothing and skin-protecting cosmetic according to any one of claims 6 to 17, characterized in that it comprises the step of mixing the raw material components.
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