CN115006292A - Concealer composition of natural origin and process for its preparation - Google Patents

Concealer composition of natural origin and process for its preparation Download PDF

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Publication number
CN115006292A
CN115006292A CN202210711727.5A CN202210711727A CN115006292A CN 115006292 A CN115006292 A CN 115006292A CN 202210711727 A CN202210711727 A CN 202210711727A CN 115006292 A CN115006292 A CN 115006292A
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Prior art keywords
vegetable
parts
derived
oil
wax
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CN202210711727.5A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
田勇
沈洁
袁菊懋
田云才
申福澈
江忠梅
余涛
徐桂芬
张金女
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Shanghai Zhenchen Cosmetics Co Ltd
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Shanghai Zhenchen Cosmetics Co Ltd
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Priority to CN202210711727.5A priority Critical patent/CN115006292A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/38Percompounds, e.g. peracids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34Free of silicones
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The application discloses a concealer composition of natural origin and a process for its preparation. The concealer composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: vegetable oil and fat: 100 parts of vegetable fat and oil comprises dioctyl carbonate; vegetable wax: 6.5-17 parts; filling powder of natural origin: 18.5-42 parts; starch elastomer: 3.8-8.3 parts; antioxidant of plant origin: 0.1-0.5 part; plant preservative: 0.5 to 1.7 parts. According to the embodiment of the application, by adding the vegetable fat dioctyl carbonate, the concealer composition has dry and fine skin feel on the premise of not adding silicone oil, is easy to spread on the surface of the skin, and is strong in stability; the dioctyl carbonate and other vegetable oil and fat are mutually cooperated with the starch elastomer, so that the compatibility of the concealer composition with the skin is enhanced, and the transient whitening phenomenon is avoided; the three-dimensional net structure of the starch elastomer enhances the gel strength, and achieves the effects of good compatibility with the base material, hydrophobicity and air permeability.

Description

Concealer composition of natural origin and process for its preparation
Technical Field
The application belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a concealer composition of natural source and a preparation method thereof.
Background
With the increasing demand of people for cosmetics and the concept of 'pure makeup' getting deeper and deeper, ingredients of natural and plant sources used in cosmetics become the trend of modern and future cosmetics.
Concealers in make-up, usually full oil systems, comprise: wax, grease, filling powder, organic silicon elastomer, antioxidant and preservative. In order to ensure fine skin feel and skin compatibility, the grease usually adopts silicon-containing grease, so that a smooth skin-adhering effect is achieved. The concealer from natural sources is mainly hindered in the component substitution of silicone oil and silicone elastomer, so that the concealer is difficult to achieve the conventional effects of skin sticking, ventilation and stability on the basis of only using natural sources and no silicon components.
Disclosure of Invention
The embodiment of the application provides a concealer composition of natural origin and a preparation method thereof, which can solve the technical problem that a concealer composition of natural origin and no silicon component has excellent performance.
A first aspect of the embodiments of the present application provides a concealer composition of natural origin, comprising the following components in parts by weight:
vegetable oil and fat: 100 parts of vegetable oil and fat, wherein the vegetable oil and fat comprises dioctyl carbonate;
vegetable wax: 6.5-17 parts;
filling powder of natural origin: 18.5-42 parts;
starch elastomer: 3.8-8.3 parts;
antioxidant of plant origin: 0.1-0.5 part;
plant preservative: 0.5 to 1.7 portions.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the weight of the dioctyl carbonate accounts for 1.0-8.0% of the weight of the vegetable fat and oil.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the application, the vegetable fat is selected from the group consisting of jojoba oil, vegetable squalane, sunflower seed oil, castor oil, canola oil, coconut oil, shea butter, grape seed oil, macadamia oil, olive oil, palm oil, cocoa butter, jojoba fat, glycolipids, vegetable-derived octyldodecanol, vegetable-derived caprylic/capric triglyceride, vegetable-derived coco-caprylic capric triglyceride, vegetable-derived nonalcoholic-caprylic ester, vegetable-derived decanol-caprylic ester, vegetable-derived undecanol-caprylic ester, vegetable-derived dodecanol-caprylic ester, vegetable-derived nonalcoholic-caprate, vegetable-derived dodecanol-caprate, vegetable-derived undecanol-caprate, vegetable-derived dodecanol-caprate, vegetable-derived cocoyl-caprylic ester, A plant-derived decacocol-caprylate, a plant-derived undecanol-caprylate, a plant-derived dodecanol-caprylate, a plant-derived nonacocol-caprate, a plant-derived decacocol-caprate, a plant-derived undecanol-caprate, a plant-derived dodecanol-caprate, or a combination thereof.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the vegetable wax is selected from jojoba wax, candelilla wax, sunflower seed wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, jasmine wax, dextrin palmitate, dextrin isostearate or combinations thereof; and/or the presence of a gas in the gas,
the filler powder of natural origin is selected from mica, kaolin, lauroyl lysine, corn starch, rice flour, rice bran flour, barley starch or a combination thereof.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the application, the starch-based elastomer is selected from the group consisting of amylose elastomers, amylopectin elastomers, or a combination thereof.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the application, the amylose elastomer package is selected from legume starch, cereal starch, potato starch or a combination thereof.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the application, the plant-derived antioxidant comprises vitamin C, vitamin C glucoside, tocopherol acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, retinol palmitate, or a combination thereof.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the application, the plant preservative comprises: 1, 2-pentanediol, magnolia bark extract, anisic acid, cinnamic acid, glyceryl caprylate, sorbitan caprylate, or combinations thereof.
A second aspect of the embodiments of the present application provides a method for preparing a concealer composition of natural origin as described in the first aspect, said method comprising the steps of:
mixing 100 parts by weight of vegetable fat, 18.5-42 parts by weight of natural filler powder and 3.8-8.3 parts by weight of starch elastomer to obtain an emulsified mixture, wherein the vegetable fat comprises dioctyl carbonate;
mixing the emulsified mixture with 6.5-17 parts by weight of vegetable wax in a liquid state to obtain an intermediate mixture;
and cooling the intermediate mixture to room temperature, and mixing with 0.5-1.7 parts by weight of a plant preservative and 0.1-0.5 parts by weight of a plant-derived antioxidant to obtain the concealer composition.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the application, said cooling the intermediate mixture to room temperature, mixing with 0.5 to 1.7 parts by weight of a plant preservative and 0.1 to 0.5 parts by weight of a plant-derived antioxidant comprises mixing at a temperature of 65 to 75 ℃, preferably 70 ℃ and a stirring speed of 1500 to 2000 rpm.
The concealer composition of the embodiment of the present application comprises: the vegetable wax comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-10 parts; vegetable oil and fat: 60-80 parts of vegetable oil and fat, wherein the vegetable oil and fat comprises dioctyl carbonate; filling powder of natural origin: 15-25 parts; starch elastomer: 3-5 parts; antioxidant of plant origin: 0.1-0.3 part; plant preservative: 0.3-1 part. By adding the vegetable fat dioctyl carbonate, the concealer composition has dry, smooth and fine skin feel on the premise of not adding silicone oil, is easy to spread on the surface of the skin, and is strong in stability; the dioctyl carbonate and other vegetable oil and fat are mutually cooperated with the starch elastomer, so that the compatibility of the concealer composition with the skin is enhanced, and the transient whitening phenomenon is avoided; the three-dimensional net structure of the starch elastomer enhances the gel strength, and achieves the effects of good compatibility with the base material, hydrophobicity and air permeability.
Detailed Description
Features and exemplary embodiments of various aspects of the present application will be described in detail below, and in order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present application more apparent, the present application will be further described in detail below with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are intended to be illustrative only and are not intended to be limiting. It will be apparent to one skilled in the art that the present application may be practiced without some of these specific details. The following description of the embodiments is merely intended to provide a better understanding of the present application by illustrating examples thereof.
It is noted that, herein, relational terms such as first and second, and the like may be used solely to distinguish one entity or action from another entity or action without necessarily requiring or implying any actual such relationship or order between such entities or actions. Also, the terms "comprises," "comprising," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements does not include only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such process, method, article, or apparatus. Without further limitation, an element defined by the phrase "comprising … …" does not exclude the presence of other identical elements in a process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises the element.
With the trends of 'pure beauty cosmetics' and global sustainable development, products for protecting environment and ocean without pollution are the trends of modern and future cosmetics. In the existing cosmetics, especially in color cosmetics, the concept of 'pure beauty cosmetics' is influenced, and the concealer is more prone to be prepared by only selecting components from natural sources under the condition of not adding silicone oil, and the conventional method of adding grease containing silicone oil is not adopted. Under the condition of not adopting silicone oil, how to achieve the smooth skin-adhering effect meets the obstruction on replacing the three main components of the prior silicone oil, the prior organic silicon elastomer and the prior preservative, so that the cosmetics are difficult to obtain the fresh feeling, the fine skin feeling and the better skin compatibility when the silicone oil is added.
In addition, although natural oil is rich in nutrition and good in absorbability, the natural oil is more easily favored by bacteria and is greasy in texture, so that the natural oil is usually discarded; the natural substitute of the organic silicon elastomer is difficult to achieve the same compatibility with the base material and the same hydrophobic and breathable performance.
Based on this, the inventors have conducted a great deal of research aiming at reasonably matching each component in the concealer composition, and further under the synergistic effect of each natural component, the concealer composition has a refreshing feel, a fine skin feel, better skin compatibility, and good compatibility and hydrophobic air permeability.
A first aspect of the embodiments of the present application provides a concealer composition of natural origin, comprising the following components in parts by weight:
vegetable oil and fat: 100 parts of vegetable oil and fat, wherein the vegetable oil and fat comprises dioctyl carbonate;
vegetable wax: 6.5-17 parts;
filling powder of natural origin: 18.5-42 parts;
starch elastomer: 3.8-8.3 parts;
antioxidant of plant origin: 0.1-0.5 part;
plant preservative: 0.5 to 1.7 portions.
According to the embodiment of the application, the concealer composition from natural sources takes materials from natural sources as raw materials, and pure chemical synthesis or non-natural ingredients in the traditional cosmetic products are replaced, so that the concealer composition is environment-friendly, safe, pollution-free, free of heavy metal ingredients, safe and healthy, and meets the requirements of consumers on products from natural sources; furthermore, the concealer composition is a full-oil system, the requirements on water locking and oil control effects are high, dioctyl carbonate is added into the vegetable oil to replace the traditional silicone oil component, and meanwhile, the vegetable elastomer and the vegetable oil replacing the silicone oil are added, so that the concealer composition still has a refreshing feeling, a fine skin feeling and good skin compatibility in the full-oil system; in addition, the starch elastomer is added to prepare a gel state to replace the traditional organosilicon elastomer component, so that the concealer composition has better compatibility, good compatibility with a base material and good hydrophobic and air permeability.
According to the embodiment of the application, the temporary whitening phenomenon can occur when the conventional cream containing the vegetable fat is applied, and the whitening phenomenon can be avoided by controlling the addition amount of the vegetable fat to be 100 parts and adding the dioctyl carbonate and other components to realize synergistic effect.
In some embodiments, the dioctyl carbonate is present in an amount of 1.0% to 8.0% by weight of the vegetable fat.
According to the embodiment of the application, the dioctyl carbonate is a clear colorless liquid, almost odorless, plant-derived grease, excellent in skin compatibility, extremely dry, fine and smooth in skin feeling, easy to spread on the surface of the skin and good in air permeability; due to the extremely high dispersion rate, it is soluble in most cosmetic oils. The dicaprylyl carbonate is uniformly distributed in the vegetable oil, so that the concealer composition has fine skin feel and better skin compatibility within the range, the sticky feel of the concealer composition can be reduced, the water locking air permeability of the concealer composition can be improved, sweat can be freely evaporated, and stuffy feeling can not be generated.
In some embodiments, the vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting of jojoba oil, vegetable squalane, sunflower seed oil, castor oil, canola oil, coconut oil, shea butter, grape seed oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, palm oil, cocoa butter, jojoba fat, glycolipids, vegetable-derived octyldodecanol, vegetable-derived caprylic/capric triglyceride, vegetable-derived coco-caprylic capric triglyceride, vegetable-derived nonanol-caprylic caprylate, vegetable-derived decanol-caprylic acid ester, vegetable-derived undecanol-caprylic acid ester, vegetable-derived dodecanol-caprylic acid ester, vegetable-derived nonanol-caprate, vegetable-derived decanol-caprate, vegetable-derived undecanol-caprate, vegetable-derived dodecanol-caprate, vegetable-derived cocol-caprylic acid ester, vegetable-derived nonadecanol-caprate, vegetable-derived dodecanol-caprate, vegetable-derived cocol-caprylate, and mixtures thereof, A plant-derived decacocool-caprylate, a plant-derived undecanol-caprylate, a plant-derived dodecanol-caprylate, a plant-derived nonacocool-caprate, a plant-derived decacocool-caprate, a plant-derived undecanol-caprate, a plant-derived dodecanol-caprate, or a combination thereof.
According to the embodiment of the application, the vegetable oil is an important component of the concealer composition, so that the safety, the flowability and the ductility of the concealer composition can be ensured, the skin pasting effect of the concealer composition is ensured, the concealer composition has good water resistance and oil moistening effects, meanwhile, when the skin color of a user is uneven, the concealer composition added with the vegetable oil improves the skin color of the user, and the defect covering effect is more obvious. Wherein the grape seed oil, coconut oil and sunflower seed oil also have antioxidant effect, and can protect skin and reduce damage of ultraviolet rays.
In some embodiments, the plant wax is selected from jojoba wax, candelilla wax, sunflower seed wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, jasmine wax, dextrin palmitate, dextrin isostearate, or combinations thereof.
According to the embodiment of the application, the vegetable wax can improve the stability and lubricity of the concealer composition and improve the use skin feeling. Such as carnauba wax, can prevent water and oil separation in the concealer composition, increasing the viscosity of the emulsion; the candelilla wax has good softening and moistening effects and can assist in conditioning the skin; the jojoba wax is not easy to oxidize and rancid, can be easily absorbed by skin, has good moisture retention, and can improve the moisture retention effect of the concealer composition.
In some embodiments, the naturally derived filler powder is selected from mica, kaolin, lauroyl lysine, corn starch, rice flour, rice bran flour, barley starch, or combinations thereof
According to the embodiment of the application, the filling powder of natural sources has good ductility, is not easy to agglomerate, has good oil control effect by matching with dioctyl carbonate, and avoids sticky feeling during sweating, wherein the barley starch can be European barley starch.
In some embodiments, the starch-based elastomer is selected from an amylose elastomer, an amylopectin elastomer, or a combination thereof.
In some embodiments, the amylose elastomer package is selected from legume starches, cereal starches, potato starches, or combinations thereof.
According to the embodiment of the application, the higher the content of amylose in the starch elastomer is, the more the starch elastomer is helpful for forming a three-dimensional net structure, so that the gel strength and elasticity of the starch product are enhanced; the amylose content distribution is generally in the order: bean starch (pea starch, mung bean starch) > cereal starch (corn starch, wheat starch) > potato starch (sweet potato starch, tapioca starch). The starch elastomer can be prepared into gel in a cosmetic formula to replace components of an organic silicon elastomer, and has good compatibility, compatibility with a base material and excellent hydrophobic air permeability.
In some embodiments, the plant-derived antioxidant comprises vitamin C, vitamin C glucoside, tocopherol acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, retinol palmitate, or a combination thereof.
According to the embodiment of the application, the plant antioxidant can prevent or delay the oxidation of unsaturated components in the natural concealer composition, and prolong the service life of the natural concealer composition; furthermore, when the vegetable oil is used for replacing the traditional synthetic oil, unsaturated components in the vegetable oil are more and are easier to oxidize, and the vegetable antioxidant can inhibit the vegetable oil from being oxidized, protect antioxidant groups in the vegetable oil and enable the antioxidant groups to act on skin.
In some embodiments, the plant preservative comprises: 1, 2-pentanediol, magnolia bark extract, anisic acid, cinnamic acid, glyceryl caprylate, sorbitan caprylate, or a combination thereof.
According to the embodiment of the application, since the concealer composition of the present application is a full oil system, the preservatives can be selected to better diffuse into the system for action by using a matched compound of cinnamic acid, 1, 2-pentanediol, magnolia bark extract, glyceryl caprylate, sorbitan caprylate instead of the traditional preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and methyl esters, and the preservatives can pass the preservative challenge or bacteriostatic test.
According to the embodiments of the present application, the plant preservative not only can prevent the concealer composition from being contaminated by microorganisms during storage and use, but also has no harm to human health. The common hydroxybenzene methyl ester preservatives in the traditional preservatives are one of the reasons for high incidence of female diseases such as breast cancer, uterine diseases and the like for women; for men, it can inhibit male hormone induced infertility. For example, anisic acid is derived from natural substances of anethole and anise oil, has a good antiseptic effect under an acidic condition, and has a remarkable bacteriostatic action on staphylococcus aureus, escherichia coli, bacillus subtilis, aspergillus niger and aspergillus flavus. 1, 2-hexanediol has antiseptic and bacteriostatic activity, and thus can be used as an important component of plant antiseptic. The glyceryl caprylate has good compatibility with other preservatives and has a synergistic function. The main active ingredient of the magnolia bark extract is magnolol which has good inhibition effect on escherichia coli, staphylococcus aureus, bacillus subtilis and the like.
A second aspect of the embodiments of the application provides a method for the preparation of a concealer composition of natural origin as described in the first aspect, said method comprising the steps of:
mixing 100 parts by weight of vegetable fat, 18.5-42 parts by weight of natural filler powder and 3.8-8.3 parts by weight of starch elastomer to obtain an emulsified mixture, wherein the vegetable fat comprises dioctyl carbonate;
mixing the emulsified mixture with 6.5-17 parts by weight of vegetable wax in a liquid state to obtain an intermediate mixture;
and cooling the intermediate mixture to room temperature, and mixing with 0.5-1.7 parts by weight of a plant preservative and 0.1-0.5 parts by weight of a plant-derived antioxidant to obtain the concealer composition.
According to the embodiment of the application, the vegetable oil, the filling powder and the starch elastomer are mixed, so that the oil phase composition can be uniformly mixed, and the filling powder is not agglomerated; the plant wax and the emulsified mixture in liquid state are mixed, so that the plant wax and the emulsified mixture can be mutually dissolved sufficiently, the effect of uniform texture is achieved, the pre-dispersed plant preservative and the antioxidant are added after cooling, the oxidation resistance and the corrosion resistance of the plant wax are ensured, and the quality guarantee period is prolonged.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the application, said cooling the intermediate mixture to room temperature, mixing with 0.5 to 1.7 parts by weight of a plant preservative and 0.1 to 0.5 parts by weight of a plant-derived antioxidant comprises mixing at a temperature of 65 to 75 ℃, preferably 70 ℃ and a stirring speed of 1500 to 2000 rpm.
According to the embodiment of the application, the antioxidant and the plant preservative can be fully mixed and dissolved without destroying the oxidizability and the preservative property under the conditions of the temperature of 65-75 ℃, preferably 70 ℃ and the stirring speed of 1500-2000 rpm.
According to the embodiment of the application, the concealer composition prepared from the plant-derived components does not affect the performance (skin feel and stability) of the concealer composition, is more in line with the sustainable development strategy of pure makeup, blue ocean and green home, and has wide application prospect.
Examples
The present disclosure is more particularly described in the following examples that are intended as illustrative only, since various modifications and changes within the scope of the present disclosure will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Unless otherwise indicated, all parts, percentages, and ratios reported in the following examples are on a weight basis, and all reagents used in the examples are commercially available or synthesized according to conventional methods and can be used as is without further treatment, and the equipment used in the examples is commercially available.
Example one
A concealer composition of natural origin, comprising the following components in parts by weight:
6 parts of candelilla wax, 1.5 parts of carnauba wax, 42.3 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride (GTCC), 5 parts of C9-12 alkane/coconut oil alcohol-caprylic/capric acid ester, 2 parts of meadowfoam seed oil, 2 parts of jojoba oil, 5 parts of caprylic lauryl alcohol, 5 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 3 parts of shea butter, 2 parts of grape seed oil, 4.5 parts of polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 7.5 parts of Lauroyl Lysine (LL), 1 part of kaolin, 2 parts of cassava powder, 10 parts of corn starch, 0.2 part of vitamin E, 0.5 part of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1 part of cinnamic acid and 0.4 part of cortex magnoliae officinalis extract, wherein each part can be 2 kg.
A method for preparing a concealer composition of natural origin, said method comprising the steps of:
1) pre-dissolved wax
Pre-dissolving the vegetable wax in parts by weight at about 100 ℃, and keeping the temperature at about 90 ℃ for later use;
2) pre-dispersing the preservative:
dispersing the 1, 2-pentanediol, the cinnamic acid and the cortex magnoliae officinalis bark extract serving as the plant preservative in parts by weight in advance, and keeping the temperature at room temperature for later use;
3) heating and stirring to dissolve components (including vegetable oil, natural filling powder and starch elastomer) of the oil phase except the antioxidant at 65-75 ℃ and at the stirring speed of 1500-2000 rpm;
4) adding the pre-dissolved wax into each component in the step 3), and continuing stirring.
5) Cooling to room temperature, adding predispersed antiseptic and antioxidant, stirring for 5-10min, standing, and packaging.
Example two
A concealer composition of natural origin, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 4 parts of candelilla wax, 2 parts of sunflower wax, 1.5 parts of carnauba wax, 44.3 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride (GTCC), 5 parts of C9-12 alkane/coco oil alcohol-caprylic/capric acid ester, 2 parts of meadowfoam seed oil, 2 parts of jojoba oil, 10 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 3 parts of plant squalane, 4.5 parts of polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 7.5 parts of rice flour, 1 part of kaolin, 2 parts of cassava flour, 10 parts of European barley starch, 0.2 part of tocopherol acetate, 0.5 part of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1 part of cinnamic acid and 0.4 part of cortex magnoliae officinalis extract. The rest was the same as in example 1.
EXAMPLE III
A concealer composition of natural origin, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 3 parts of sunflower seed wax, 3 parts of rice bran wax, 1.5 parts of carnauba wax, 42.3 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride (GTCC), 5 parts of C9-12 alkane/coconut oil alcohol-caprylic/capric acid ester, 2 parts of chinaroot greens seed oil, 2 parts of jojoba oil, 10 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 3 parts of shea butter, 2 parts of grape seed oil, 4.5 parts of polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 7.5 parts of mica, 1 part of kaolin, 2 parts of cassava powder, 10 parts of corn starch, 0.2 part of vitamin E (tocopherol), 0.5 part of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1 part of cinnamic acid and 0.4 part of cortex magnoliae officinalis extract. The rest is the same as example 1.
Example four
A concealer composition of natural origin, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 3 parts of sunflower wax, 2 parts of dextrin palmitate, 1 part of jasmine wax, 1.5 parts of carnauba wax, 42.3 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride (GTCC), 5 parts of C9-12 alkane/coconut oil alcohol-caprylic/capric acid ester, 2 parts of chinaroot greens seed oil, 2 parts of jojoba oil, 8 parts of caprylic dodecanol, 2 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 3 parts of shea butter, 2 parts of grape seed oil, 4.5 parts of polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 7.5 parts of rice bran powder, 1 part of kaolin, 2 parts of cassava powder, 10 parts of corn starch, 0.2 part of vitamin E (tocopherol), 0.5 part of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1 part of cinnamic acid and 0.4 part of cortex magnoliae officinalis extract. The rest was the same as in example 1.
EXAMPLE five
A concealer composition of natural origin, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 6 parts of candelilla wax, 1.5 parts of carnauba wax, 42.3 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride (GTCC), 5 parts of C9-12 alkane/coconut oil alcohol-caprylic/capric acid ester, 2 parts of olive oil, 2 parts of castor oil, 8 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 2 parts of caprylic lauryl alcohol, 3 parts of shea butter, 2 parts of grape seed oil, 4.5 parts of polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 7.5 parts of Lauroyl Lysine (LL), 1 part of kaolin, 2 parts of tapioca, 10 parts of corn starch, 0.1 part of vitamin C glucoside, 0.1 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.5 part of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1 part of cinnamic acid and 0.4 part of magnolia bark extract. The rest is the same as example 1.
EXAMPLE six
A concealer composition of natural origin, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 6 parts of candelilla wax, 1.5 parts of carnauba wax, 42.3 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride (GTCC), 5 parts of C9-12 alkane/coconut oil alcohol-caprylic/capric acid ester, 4 parts of coconut oil alcohol-caprylic/capric triglyceride, 10 parts of dioctyl carbonate, 3 parts of shea butter, 2 parts of grape seed oil, 4.5 parts of polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 7.5 parts of Lauroyl Lysine (LL), 1 part of kaolin, 2 parts of cassava meal, 10 parts of corn starch, 0.2 part of vitamin E (tocopherol), 0.5 part of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1 part of cinnamic acid and 0.4 part of cortex magnoliae officinalis extract. The rest is the same as example 1.
Comparative example
One concealer on the market uses ingredients including silicone oil, silicone elastomer, synthetic wax, synthetic grease, silica, polymethylsilsesquioxane.
Performance detection
And (3) testing the stability: different grease, wax combinations may lead to different stability, and stability tests in cosmetics include cold, heat and centrifuge tests.
Cold and heat resistance test: in order to keep the stable performance, no physical and chemical changes, no oil leakage, water separation, coarse grains, emulsion breaking and other phenomena of the product in the storage and use processes, the formula is subjected to high-temperature and low-temperature storage stability tests.
The laboratory high-temperature and low-temperature storage stability test can be carried out by adopting the following method:
1) placing in an electric heating constant temperature incubator at 40-50 deg.C for 30-50 days, and observing after recovering room temperature;
2) repeatedly changing at 0-50 deg.C within 24h for 15-30 days, and observing after recovering room temperature;
3) storing at-5 deg.C and 40 deg.C for 3 times, respectively for 24 hr at-5 deg.C, storing at room temperature for 24 hr, storing in 40 deg.C thermostat for 24 hr, sequentially circulating for 3 times, and observing its stability;
4) the stability was observed after 1 week storage at-5 ℃.
And (3) centrifugal test: the centrifugal test is a test for testing the shelf life of emulsion cosmetics and is a necessary test method for an accelerated separation test, the concealer is one kind of emulsion, and the detection method is as follows: the sample is placed in a centrifuge, and after 30min of test at the rotating speed of (2000-4000) RPM, the separation and delamination of the product are observed.
Table one stability test result for each sample.
Sample (I) Cold-resistant Heat resistance Centrifugation
Example 1 Stabilization Stabilization Without separation or stratification
Example 2 Stabilization Stabilization Without separation and delamination
Example 3 Stabilization Oil bleeding occurs Without separation and delamination
Example 4 Stabilization Oil bleeding occurs Without separation or stratification
Example 5 Stabilization Stabilization Without separation and delamination
Example 6 Stabilization Stabilization Without separation and delamination
Comparative example Stabilization Stabilization Without separation and delamination
The results show that example 3 and example 4 show oil bleeding in the case of heating. Possibly due to less than ideal compatibility of the wax with the oil in example 3 and examples. In yet other embodiments, candelilla wax is included, which contains an alkane component extracted from a plant and is more compatible with vegetable fats and oils. The synthetic wax and the synthetic oil in the comparative example have extremely high compatibility and good stability.
Skin feel test
The skin feel of the concealer is greatly influenced by wax and oil, 36 healthy women of 18-40 years old are randomly selected in a performance detection test, the same concealer is used for drawing a line on the inner side of the left arm (the right arm is blank control), the skin feel on the hand when the sample is applied is recorded, and the average value is obtained according to the judgment standard. The evaluation criteria are shown in table two, and the test results are shown in table three.
And testing indexes and evaluation indexes in the second table.
Figure BDA0003708314190000131
Table three skin feel test results for each sample.
Sample(s) Skin feel Whether it is moist or not
Example 1 7.5 8.1
Example 2 5.8 8.4
Example 3 7.0 8.0
Example 4 6.5 7.9
Example 5 8.5 7.5
Example 6 8.7 8.5
Comparative example 8.8 8.9
The results show that the examples have better moisturisation, with little difference, whereas examples 6 and 5 have better skin feel than the other examples, whereas examples 2 and 4 have poorer skin feel, probably due to the lower content of ingredients without Lauroyl Lysine (LL) and dioctyl carbonate. The skin feel of the dicaprylyl carbonate in the grease is close to that of silicone oil, and LL and corn starch in the filling powder have higher smoothness and can also enhance the smoothness of the skin feel.
Endurance test
Concealers generally have a long-lasting character. Performance testing trial a random selection of 30 healthy women of 18-40 years old was made and the same concealer was used to draw lines on the inside of the left and right arms. After 30min, the left arm was rinsed with water (the right arm was control, no treatment was done), and the waterproof ability of the left arm was observed, indirectly reflecting the durability of the concealer product.
Table four each sample was tested for durability (water resistance).
Sample (I) Left arm phenomenon
Example 1 Without any change
Example 2 Without any change
Example 3 Without any change
Example 4 Without any change
Example 5 Without any change
Example 6 Without any change
Comparative example Without any change
The results show that the samples in the examples have good water repellency and durability, and the performance of the prepared concealer composition meets the requirements.
As described above, only the specific embodiments of the present application are provided, and it can be clearly understood by those skilled in the art that, for convenience and brevity of description, the specific working processes of the system, the module and the unit described above may refer to the corresponding processes in the foregoing method embodiments, and are not described herein again. It should be understood that the scope of the present application is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art can easily conceive various equivalent modifications or substitutions within the technical scope of the present application, and these modifications or substitutions should be covered within the scope of the present application.

Claims (10)

1. Concealer composition of natural origin, characterized in that it comprises the following components in parts by weight:
vegetable oil and fat: 100 parts of vegetable oil and fat, wherein the vegetable oil and fat comprises dioctyl carbonate;
vegetable wax: 6.5-17 parts;
filling powder of natural origin: 18.5-42 parts;
starch elastomer: 3.8-8.3 parts;
antioxidant of plant origin: 0.1-0.5 part;
plant preservative: 0.5 to 1.7 portions.
2. The concealer composition according to claim 1, wherein the concealer composition comprises,
the weight of the dioctyl carbonate accounts for 1.0-8.0% of the weight of the vegetable oil.
3. The concealer composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said vegetable fat is selected from the group consisting of jojoba oil, vegetable squalane, sunflower seed oil, castor oil, canola oil, coconut oil, shea butter, grape seed oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, palm oil, cocoa butter, jojoba fat, glycolipids, vegetable-derived octyldodecanol, vegetable-derived caprylic/capric triglyceride, vegetable-derived coco-caprylic capric triglyceride, vegetable-derived nonalcoholic-caprylic acid ester, vegetable-derived decanol-caprylic acid ester, vegetable-derived undecanol-caprylic acid ester, vegetable-derived dodecanol-caprylic acid ester, vegetable-derived nonalcoholic-capric acid ester, vegetable-derived dodecanol-capric acid ester, vegetable-derived undecanol-capric acid ester, vegetable-derived dodecanol-capric acid ester, vegetable-derived dodecanol-capric acid ester, vegetable-fatty acid ester, fatty acid ester, A plant-derived coco alcohol-caprylate, a plant-derived coco alcohol-caprate, or a combination thereof.
4. Concealer composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that,
the vegetable wax is selected from jojoba wax, candelilla wax, sunflower seed wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, jasmine wax, dextrin palmitate, dextrin isostearate or combinations thereof; and/or the presence of a gas in the gas,
the filler powder of natural origin is selected from mica, kaolin, lauroyl lysine, corn starch, rice flour, rice bran flour, barley starch or a combination thereof.
5. The concealer composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the starch-based elastomer is selected from the group consisting of amylose elastomers, amylopectin elastomers or a combination thereof.
6. The concealer composition according to claim 5, wherein said amylose elastomer package is selected from legume starches, cereal starches, potato starches or combinations thereof.
7. The concealer composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said plant derived antioxidant comprises vitamin C, vitamin C glucoside, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, retinol palmitate or combinations thereof.
8. The concealer composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the plant preservative comprises: 1, 2-pentanediol, magnolia bark extract, anisic acid, cinnamic acid, glyceryl caprylate, sorbitan caprylate, or combinations thereof.
9. A method for preparing a concealer composition of natural origin according to any of the claims 1 to 8, comprising the steps of:
mixing 100 parts by weight of vegetable fat, 18.5-42 parts by weight of natural filler powder and 3.8-8.3 parts by weight of starch elastomer to obtain an emulsified mixture, wherein the vegetable fat comprises dioctyl carbonate;
mixing the emulsified mixture with 6.5-17 parts by weight of vegetable wax in a liquid state to obtain an intermediate mixture;
cooling the intermediate mixture to room temperature, and mixing with 0.5-1.7 parts by weight of a plant preservative and 0.1-0.5 parts by weight of a plant-derived antioxidant to obtain the concealer composition.
10. The method of claim 9, wherein cooling the intermediate mixture to room temperature, mixing with 0.5 to 1.7 parts by weight of a plant preservative and 0.1 to 0.5 parts by weight of a plant-derived antioxidant comprises mixing at a temperature of 65 to 75 ℃, preferably 70 ℃ and a stirring speed of 1500 to 2000 rpm.
CN202210711727.5A 2022-06-22 2022-06-22 Concealer composition of natural origin and process for its preparation Pending CN115006292A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN115770202A (en) * 2022-12-05 2023-03-10 上海臻臣化妆品有限公司 Concealer and preparation method thereof

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108261350A (en) * 2018-02-01 2018-07-10 湖南斯洛柯有机硅有限公司 A kind of emulsifier and preparation method thereof and the cosmetics containing it
CN114504511A (en) * 2022-01-05 2022-05-17 上海百雀羚生物科技有限公司 Powdery cosmetic composition

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108261350A (en) * 2018-02-01 2018-07-10 湖南斯洛柯有机硅有限公司 A kind of emulsifier and preparation method thereof and the cosmetics containing it
CN114504511A (en) * 2022-01-05 2022-05-17 上海百雀羚生物科技有限公司 Powdery cosmetic composition

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN115770202A (en) * 2022-12-05 2023-03-10 上海臻臣化妆品有限公司 Concealer and preparation method thereof
CN115770202B (en) * 2022-12-05 2023-11-10 上海臻臣化妆品有限公司 Concealer and preparation method thereof

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