CN114948797A - Gardenia flower oil composition with moistening and relieving effects, skin care product, and preparation method and application of gardenia flower oil composition - Google Patents
Gardenia flower oil composition with moistening and relieving effects, skin care product, and preparation method and application of gardenia flower oil composition Download PDFInfo
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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Abstract
The invention discloses a gardenia flower oil composition with moistening and relieving effects, a skin care product, and a preparation method and application thereof. The gardenia oil composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 33-60% of gardenia oil and 40-66% of ceramide. The gardenia flower oil composition has good effects of relieving itching and inflammation, and can obviously improve the skin inflammation problem by adding a skin care product. The invention also provides a lotion prepared by the gardenia oil composition, and the lotion can relieve inflammation and repair skin barriers.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a gardenia flower oil composition with moistening and relieving effects, a skin care product, a preparation method and an application thereof.
Background
Gardenia [ Gardenia jasminoides (Linn.) Ellis ] plant of Gardenia of Rubiaceae (Rubiaceae), evergreen shrub, large flower with diameter of 5-10 cm, white color, heavy valve, fragrance, and short stalk; the fruit is yellow, egg-shaped to oblong, and the length of the fruit is 2-4 cm; the flowering period is 5-7 months, and the fruit period is 7-10 months. The gardenia is originally produced in regions of south provinces of Yangtze river basin in China, mainly produced in places such as Hunan, Jiangxi, Fujian, Zhejiang, Yunnan, Sichuan, Guangdong, Anhui and Jiangsu, and cultivated in places such as Kunming, Dali, Yuxi, Pu' er, Xishuangbanna and Dehong. The gardenia has strong fragrance and is one of the eight famous flowers in China.
The gardenia contains active ingredients such as alcohols, aldehydes, terpenes and the like, and also contains abundant oil and fat including linoleic acid, phytosterol, vitamin E and the like, and volatile ingredients with relatively high content include ocimene and linalool. Research shows that the active ingredients in the extracts obtained by different extraction methods and extraction processes can be greatly different. At present, the main active ingredients in the gardenia oil mainly comprise ocimene and linalool, the main active ingredients are mainly used for contributing fragrance, and unsaturated fatty acid ingredients such as oleic acid and linoleic acid can be reserved to the maximum degree by extracting the gardenia oil with coconut oil.
Ceramides (Ceramides, Cers) are present in all eukaryotic cells and have important regulatory effects on cell differentiation, proliferation, apoptosis, senescence and other vital activities. Ceramide is used as a main component of intercellular lipid of stratum corneum of skin, is not only used as a second messenger molecule in a sphingomyelin pathway, but also plays an important role in the formation process of the stratum corneum of the skin, and has the effects of maintaining skin barrier, preserving moisture, resisting aging, whitening, treating diseases and the like.
At present, no skin care matrix taking gardenia flower oil extracted from coconut oil and ceramide as raw materials is reported.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art and provide the gardenia oil composition with the effects of moistening and relieving.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a skin lotion comprising the above skin care composition.
The invention further aims to provide a preparation method of the skin lotion.
The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a gardenia flower oil composition with moistening and relieving effects comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 33-60% of gardenia oil and 40-66% of ceramide; preferably, the skin care composition with the moistening and relieving effects comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 33-60% of gardenia oil, 20-33% of ceramide NP and 20-33% of ceramide AS; most preferably, the gardenia oil composition with the moistening and relieving effects comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 50% of gardenia oil, 16.7% of ceramide NP and 33.3% of ceramide AS.
Preferably, the gardenia oil is obtained by leaching coconut oil; more preferably, the gardenia oil is obtained by soaking 60-100g of fresh gardenia in per kg of coconut oil, soaking for 15 days at normal temperature, and filtering.
Preferably, the fresh gardenia is gardenia picked within 24 hours.
Preferably, the normal temperature is 25-35 ℃.
The gardenia oil composition with the functions of moistening and relieving is applied to preparing skin care products for relieving itching and inflammation.
The gardenia flower oil composition with the functions of moistening and relieving is added into a skin care product in an amount of 0.1-5% by weight.
The skin lotion comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.1-5% of gardenia oil composition with moistening and relieving effects, 1-6% of glycerol, 0.1-0.8% of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1-0.7% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.1-1.2% of panthenol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1-2.2% of EDTA-2Na, 0.01-0.08% of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.01-0.1% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1-0.3% of carbomer, 0.1-0.3% of arginine, 0.1-0.3% of allantoin, 0.05-0.5% of betaine, 1-6% of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1-5% of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 1-3% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-3% of cetearyl alcohol, 1% of compound of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol stearate, 1-3% of cetearyl glucoside, Lecithin 0.1-2 wt% and water for the rest.
Preferably, the skin lotion comprises the following components in percentage by weight: gardenia oil composition with moistening and relieving effects comprises 3% of glycerol, 5% of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.6% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.6% of panthenol, 1, 3-butanediol, 2% of EDTA-2Na, 0.05% of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.5% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.25% of carbomer, 0.2% of arginine, 0.2% of allantoin, 0.1% of betaine, 5% of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3% of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 1.5% of polydimethylsiloxane, 2.5% of cetearyl alcohol, 1% of a compound of glycerol stearate and polyethylene glycol stearate, 1.5% of cetearyl glucoside, 0.5% of lecithin and the balance of water.
Preferably, in the compound of the glycerol stearate and the polyethylene glycol stearate, the polyethylene glycol stearate is PEG-100 stearate; more preferably, the weight ratio of glyceryl stearate to PEG-100 stearate in the formulation is 1: 1.
the preparation method of the skin lotion comprises the following steps:
s1, heating glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol, 1, 3-butanediol, EDTA-2Na, sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, betaine, carbomer and most of water to 80-85 ℃, stirring and dispersing uniformly, and keeping the temperature until the material body is a uniform solution to obtain a water phase;
s2, heating caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydimethylsiloxane, cetearyl alcohol, a compound of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol stearate and cetearyl glucoside to 80-85 ℃, stirring and dispersing uniformly, and keeping the temperature until the material body is uniform and has no particles to obtain an oil phase;
s3, starting vacuum, mixing the water phase obtained in the step S1 and the oil phase obtained in the step S2 under the condition of homogenization, adding arginine after high-speed homogenization at the temperature of 80-85 ℃, uniformly stirring, cooling to 38-42 ℃, adding lecithin, a water and gardenia oil composition and p-hydroxyacetophenone, uniformly stirring, filtering and discharging.
Preferably, the high-speed homogenization in step S3 is 3000 rpm homogenization for 2-4 min.
Preferably, the arginine in step S3 is a pre-dissolved solution with a suitable amount of water.
Preferably, the lecithin, the small portion of water and the gardenia oil composition are pre-dispersed in step S3, and the p-hydroxyacetophenone is a solution pre-dissolved with a proper amount of water.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
the skin care composition has good effects of relieving itching and inflammation, and can obviously improve the skin inflammation problem by adding the skin care product. The invention also provides the skin lotion prepared by the skin care composition, and the skin lotion can relieve inflammation and repair skin barriers.
Drawings
FIG. 1 shows the results of the measurement of the blood vessels or hemoglobin values in the deep layer of the red zone of the facial skin of a subject before and after the use of the emulsion of example 3; wherein, A is the right face and B is the left face.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1
Preparing a skin care composition:
1. picking fresh gardenia, soaking high-quality seed oil in the picked gardenia within 24 hours, soaking 80g of gardenia in 1kg of coconut oil, soaking for 15 days at 25 ℃, and filtering to obtain the gardenia oil extracted from the coconut oil.
2. Mixing flos Gardeniae oil extracted from oleum Cocois, ceramide NP (CAS number: 100403-19-8), and ceramide AS (CAS number: 100403-19-8) according to the dosage shown in Table 1, and stirring to obtain skin care composition 1-12.
TABLE 1 compositions 1-12 (parts by weight)
| Gardenia flower oil extracted from coconut oil | Ceramide NP | Ceramide AS | |
| Composition 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Composition 2 | 1 | 2 | 3 |
| Composition 3 | 1 | 3 | 2 |
| Composition 4 | 2 | 1 | 3 |
| Composition 5 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| Composition 6 | 2 | 3 | 1 |
| Composition 7 | 3 | 1 | 2 |
| Composition 8 | 3 | 2 | 1 |
| Composition 9 | 3 | 3 | 3 |
| Composition 10 | 3 | 0 | 0 |
| Composition 11 | 0 | 3 | 0 |
| Composition 12 | 0 | 0 | 3 |
Test of the effect of relieving inflammation:
1. using a 3D skin model (
3D full thickness skin model (Hangao, Germany)) the experiment was performed and the surface of the 3D skin model was treated with acetone for 60min, disrupting the skin barrier function.
2. On the day of experiment, the surface of the 3D skin model is respectively smeared with the composition 1-12 in the morning and evening, and each time is 30 mug; positive controls (no further treatment after acetone treatment) and negative controls (normal model without any substance applied and without acetone treatment) were set simultaneously and 3 replicates per group were run.
3. The IL-6 synthetic concentrations of each experimental group and the control group were measured by ELISA method (ELISA kit, Saimerfin) after smearing for 24h and 48h, and the results are shown in Table 2. 24h, 48h from the first application of the composition.
TABLE 2 test results for inflammation relief
The result shows that the synthetic concentration of IL-6 is reduced to 250 ng/L48 h after the test experiment of the inflammation relieving effect by using the composition 7, the inflammation relieving effect is good, and the skin care compositions 8 and 9 also have good inflammation relieving effect.
And (3) testing the itching relieving effect:
the compositions 7, 8 and 9 are used for testing the itching relieving effect; positive and blank controls were set simultaneously. 50 guinea pigs (180-Water), positive control group (hydrocortisone butyrate), sample group 1 (composition 7), sample group 2 (composition 8), sample group 3 (composition 9), 10 per group. On the experimental day, after the back hair of the right hind foot of each guinea pig group is shaved, the corresponding medicine is coated for one time, 0.1 ml/guinea pig; 1h later, the shaved part of the right instep was scratched with coarse sandpaper to make it reddish with no bleeding and an area of about 1cm 2 Then applying the medicine for 1 time; after 10min, 0.01% histamine phosphate solution and 0.05 mL/body are dripped on the right back instep shaving position, 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04% and 0.05% histamine phosphate solution is dripped on the right back instep shaving position every 3min, each time, 0.05 mL/body is obtained, whether the guinea pig licks the right back instep back with head returning or not is observed within 3min after each concentration is dripped, the phenomenon of licking the right back instep does not occur, then the histamine phosphate solution with the next higher concentration is dripped continuously until the guinea pig licks the right back instep back, and the total histamine phosphate amount given when the guinea pig finally licks the right back instep with head returning is taken as the scratchiness threshold, and the results are shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3 antipruritic effect test results
The P value is compared with the test group and the negative control group.
The sample group 1 (composition 7) had the most significant effect of increasing the scratchiness threshold of guinea pigs compared to the blank control group, and was statistically significant compared to the blank control group. (P <0.05)
Example 2
Table 4 shows the emollient cream components and amounts prepared using composition 7 of example 1. The weight ratio of the glyceryl stearate to the PEG-100 stearate in the compound of the glyceryl stearate and the PEG-100 stearate is 1: 1.
TABLE 3 skin lotion composition and amount (in weight percent)
The preparation method of the skin lotion sample comprises the following steps:
the sample process comprises the following steps:
putting glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol, 1, 3-butanediol, EDTA-2Na, sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, betaine, carbomer and most of water into an emulsifying pot, heating to 82 ℃, stirring and dispersing uniformly, keeping the temperature for 3min, and enabling a material body in the emulsifying pot to be a uniform solution to obtain a water phase;
adding caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydimethylsiloxane, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate and cetearyl glucoside into an oil phase pot, heating to 82 ℃, stirring and dispersing uniformly, keeping the temperature for 3min, and obtaining an oil phase when the materials in the emulsifying pot are uniform and have no particles;
starting vacuum, pumping the oil phase into the water phase under homogenization, and carrying out high-speed homogenization (3000 r/min) at 82 ℃ for 3 min;
fourthly, adding the pre-dissolved arginine solution after the high-speed homogenization is finished, and stirring uniformly;
fifthly, cooling the temperature of the emulsifying pot to 40 ℃, adding the p-hydroxyacetophenone solution, the pre-dispersed lecithin, water and the gardenia oil composition 7 into the emulsifying pot, stirring uniformly, detecting to be qualified, filtering and discharging. The preparation procedure of the comparative sample was different only in that the gardenia oil composition 7 was not added.
Test of the effect of relieving inflammation:
1. the experiment is carried out by adopting a 3D skin model, and the surface of the 3D skin model is treated by acetone for 60min to destroy the barrier function of the skin.
2. Respectively smearing a skin moistening cream sample and a comparison sample on the surface of the 3D skin model once in the morning and at night, wherein each time is 30 micrograms; positive controls (no further treatment after acetone treatment) and negative controls (normal model without any substance applied and without acetone treatment) were set simultaneously and 3 replicates per group were run.
3. The results of the ELISA method for testing the IL-6 synthesis concentration of each experimental group and the control group for 24h and 48h are shown in Table 4. 24h, 48h from the first application of the composition.
TABLE 4 test results for inflammation-relieving efficacy
The result shows that the synthetic concentration of IL-6 is reduced to 380ng/L after the sample skin lotion is used for testing for 48 hours, and the effect of relieving inflammation is good.
Firming skin barrier effect test
1. Average trans-epidermal resistance (TEER) test
Experiments were performed using 3D skin models, dividing the experimental groups into: SLS treated group, SLS + sample treated group, SLS + control sample treated group, blank control group. Treating the surface of the 3D skin model of the SLS treatment group with a 0.8% sodium dodecyl sulfate solution for 30 min; the 3D skin model surface of the SLS + sample treatment group is firstly treated with 0.8% sodium dodecyl sulfate solution for 30min, and then is coated with 30 mu g of skin moisturizing cream sample; the 3D skin model surface of the SLS + control treatment group was treated with 0.8% sodium lauryl sulfate solution for 30min followed by a 30 μ g smear treatment with a skin lotion control sample; the surface of the 3D skin model of the blank control group is not treated; taking the day 0 before SLS treatment, finishing the first treatment by adopting a skin lotion sample or a skin lotion control sample after SLS treatment for 30min, taking the day 1, and then respectively smearing 30 micrograms each time for 1 time in the morning and evening for 14 days; each group was replicated 3 times. The average trans-epidermal resistance of the surface of each group of 3D skin models after the treatment of SLS on day 0, day 1, day 7 and day 14 was measured, and the measurement results are shown in table 5.
TABLE 5 average through-skin resistance test results
2. Average transepidermal water loss (TEWL) test
The average transepidermal water loss rate test was performed on the surface of each group of 3D skin models in the average transepidermal resistance (TEER) test, and the test results are shown in table 6.
TABLE 6 average transepidermal water loss test
Tables 5 and 6 show that the skin barrier is disrupted by SLS and that the skin barrier function is better restored using the emollient cream samples.
Example 3
The skin lotion sample of example 2 was distributed to 20 subjects with inflamed facial skin and impaired skin barrier for use, once daily in the morning and evening after cleansing of the facial skin, 0.3g each application, for four consecutive weeks. The skin inflammation index was measured using a VISIA microanalyzer (VISIA. TM. complex Analysis) to detect the deep blood vessel or hemoglobin values of the red areas of the skin. The results are shown in FIG. 1. The numerical quantity of the red zone on the face of the subject is obviously reduced, which indicates that the skin moistening cream has excellent effect of improving skin inflammation.
While the foregoing is directed to the preferred embodiment of the present invention, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
Claims (10)
1. The gardenia flower oil composition with the effects of moistening and relieving is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight: 33-60% of gardenia oil and 40-66% of ceramide.
2. The gardenia oil composition with the moistening and relieving effects as claimed in claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight: 33-60% of gardenia oil, 20-33% of ceramide NP and 20-33% of ceramide AS.
3. The gardenia oil composition with the moistening and relieving effects as claimed in claim 2, which is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight: 50% of gardenia oil, 16.7% of ceramide NP and 33.3% of ceramide AS.
4. The gardenia oil composition with the moistening and relieving effects as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the gardenia oil is extracted by coconut oil.
5. Use of the gardenia oil composition with moisturizing and relieving effects as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4 for preparing a skin care product for relieving itching and inflammation.
6. The use of claim 5, wherein the gardenia oil composition with the moistening and relieving effects is added into the skin care product in an amount of 0.1-5% by weight.
7. The skin lotion is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight: 0.1-5% of gardenia oil composition with moistening and relieving effects, 1-6% of glycerol, 0.1-0.8% of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1-0.7% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.1-1.2% of panthenol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1-2.2% of EDTA-2Na, 0.01-0.08% of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.01-0.1% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1-0.3% of carbomer, 0.1-0.3% of arginine, 0.1-0.3% of allantoin, 0.05-0.5% of betaine, 1-6% of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1-5% of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 1-3% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-3% of cetearyl alcohol, 1% of compound of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol stearate, 1-3% of cetearyl glucoside, Lecithin 0.1-2 wt% and water for the rest.
8. The skin lotion according to claim 7, wherein the gardenia oil composition having moisturizing and soothing effects comprises 3% of glycerol 5%, 1, 2-pentanediol 0.6%, 1, 2-hexanediol 0.6%, panthenol 1%, 1, 3-butanediol 2%, EDTA-2Na 0.05%, p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.5%, sodium hyaluronate 0.02%, carbomer 0.25%, arginine 0.2%, allantoin 0.2%, betaine 0.1%, caprylic/capric triglyceride 5%, hydrogenated polyisobutene 3%, polydimethylsiloxane 1.5%, cetearyl alcohol 2.5%, a combination of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol stearate 1%, cetearyl glucoside 1.5%, lecithin 0.5%, and the balance of water.
9. A process for preparing the skin lotion according to claim 7 or 8, which comprises the steps of:
s1, heating glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, panthenol, 1, 3-butanediol, EDTA-2Na, sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, betaine, carbomer and most of water to 80-85 ℃, stirring and dispersing uniformly, and keeping the temperature until the material body is a uniform solution to obtain a water phase;
s2, heating caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydimethylsiloxane, cetearyl alcohol, a compound of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol stearate and cetearyl glucoside to 80-85 ℃, stirring and dispersing uniformly, and keeping the temperature until the material body is uniform and has no particles to obtain an oil phase;
s3, starting vacuum, mixing the water phase obtained in the step S1 and the oil phase obtained in the step S2 under the condition of homogenization, adding arginine after high-speed homogenization at 80-85 ℃, uniformly stirring, cooling to 38-42 ℃, adding lecithin, the water, the gardenia oil composition and the p-hydroxyacetophenone, uniformly stirring, filtering and discharging.
10. The method for preparing the skin lotion according to claim 9,
s3, homogenizing at high speed of 3000 rpm for 2-4 min;
step S3, the arginine is a solution pre-dissolved by using a proper amount of water;
and step S3, pre-dispersing the lecithin, a small part of water and gardenia oil composition, wherein the p-hydroxyacetophenone is a solution pre-dissolved by using a proper amount of water.
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