CN1147035A - Method for weaving fashion fabric contg. giant silkworm silk - Google Patents
Method for weaving fashion fabric contg. giant silkworm silk Download PDFInfo
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- CN1147035A CN1147035A CN 94117973 CN94117973A CN1147035A CN 1147035 A CN1147035 A CN 1147035A CN 94117973 CN94117973 CN 94117973 CN 94117973 A CN94117973 A CN 94117973A CN 1147035 A CN1147035 A CN 1147035A
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Abstract
A method for weaving fashion fabric containing wild silkworm's silk, which may be used to sew high-grade clothes and decorative articles, especially Japanese Kimono, includes blend weaving with raw silk of wild silkworm and bleaching or dyeing, and features full use of the natural primary colour and dioptric power of wild silkworm's silk.
Description
The present invention relates to contain the weaving method of several Silk shell fabrics of wild silk yarn.This lining is particularly suitable for the national costume-kimonos and the high-grade dress ornament handicraft thereof of Japan, as necktie, silk handkerchief etc.
Giant silkworm is the very rare species of current nature, only is distributed in a few countries and area.Tradition is thought lucky fine symbol.China has wild wild silk yarn at present.Its annual production is arrived double centner for about 30 kilograms, accounts for 60～80% of world's annual production.The giant silkworm precursor is a prase, and cross section is a prismatic.Refractivity is strong, can produce seven glories point under tearing open of sunlight penetrated, and this has, and pulling force is strong, the characteristics of good corrosion resistance.Because the giant silkworm species are rare, silk output is extremely low, that price is faced upward very much is expensive (be other natural silk 50～100 times), this cocoon silk quilt people are described as the clothes that " diamond " made of wild silk yarn in the silk, especially the not only luxurious elegance of kimono and dress ornament handicraft, bright and colourful, and have collection and be worth.
Because the peculiar double-wedge section of wild silk yarn itself, characteristics such as washing shrinkage, heat resistance, tinctorial yield, refractivity, domestic always failing made lining with its deep processing, and its reason mainly is technology and technical not passing a test, so wild silk yarn is to sell raw material in the international market in China always.Japan is in having introduced silkworm egg and carried out a spot of test of propagating artificially from China several years ago.And be used for the kimonos that Yamato extremely values, the extremely tame welcome of Japan's wealth and rank.
Be in the coml needs, the Japan factory that can be made into the wild silk yarn lining all takes the technology envelope trivial at home and in the world, in the hope of monopolizing the produce market of wild silk yarn lining and clothes, dress ornament handicraft.
The inventor is through in the past few years to the research of wild silk yarn, and a large amount of energy and fund have been dropped into, through repetition test processing, explored wild silk yarn processing characteristics, manufacture experimently out whole day silk and contain various jacquard fabrics, the dyed shell fabrics that wild silk yarn mixes knitted fabric and contains wild silk yarn.And deep processing goes out clothes and multiple ornaments.
Purpose of the present invention just provides the basic weaving method of several linings of fabric cloth coatining natural silk (comprising whole day silk lining), solve the wild silk yarn list and knit and mix the technology of knitting, promote the development and use and the wild silk yarn lining of precious wild silk yarn resource, the formation and development of giant silkworm series of products and deep processing industry thereof.
The primary colors wild silk yarn mixes the weaving method of knitted fabric:
At first, before machine mixes and knits on wild silk yarn and other natural silk, wild silk yarn and other natural silk are handled respectively, promptly " the refining cloth " of routine is changed in advance " refining silk ".The refining silk here is meant to be handled with conventional refinery practice other natural silk, and wild silk yarn only shrinks and starching is handled, and the lining after above-mentioned being made into is gently refined processing again.Perhaps wild silk yarn is gently refined processing earlier, no longer gently refine processing under the lining behind the machine, but silk polluting in last machining process easily like this, is that first starching or softening, wet silk epipodium are twisted with the fingers to wild silk yarn preferably, weaves the light refining in back lining.
Wild silk yarn starching processing method can be the wild silk yarn precursor to be immersed carry out immersion treatment in 55～80 ℃ the compounding agent solution and also can only shrink to handle to copy in the following slightly acidic water of boiling point in 50 ℃ of warm water and boil.To slough the deficiency that part silk gum can remedy wild silk yarn spore and degree difference be purpose to reach in the grasp of treatment temperature and time.Wet as required silk fills up the problem that sth. made by twisting also can keep natural colour and remedy the degree of saturation deficiency.Be lower than 20% or if mix the content of wild silk yarn in the knitted fabric, only shrink and handle or the direct epipodium twist processing of precursor according to the requirement of fabric style.Weave then.It can be lining to be immersed in 50～80 ℃ of aqueous solution that contain 0.2～1% washing powder or the conventional neutral colourless auxiliary agent soaked 40～180 minutes that above-mentioned mixed knitted fabric behind the following machine gently refines processing method.After the taking-up, carry out lixiviating, decontamination, processing with the warm water that contains 0.2% food acids.Equally, gently the time of refining prolongs along with the temperature reduction of light refining compounding agent solution, the light fabric panel surface of refining of warp is brighter, also energy is durable in use, texture is more soft and smooth.
Can keep the prase natural colored of wild silk yarn beauty through the woven mixed knitted fabric of preceding method, and it is presented in fabric.If to carrying out bleaching and dyeing again after the refining of other natural silk (also comprising wild silk yarn) before last machine, dye the colorful silk of various differences, after mix to knit or weave with the wild silk yarn primary colors silk color matching of natural prase again and can obtain style, different colorful lining and the jacquard fabrics of color.
Certainly can also be made into whole day silk lining to carrying out the processing of starching or softening epipodium sth. made by twisting before the machine on the wild silk yarn, again lining is carried out refining bleaching and dyeing processing, not only can obtain wild silk yarn primary colors lining, can also obtain versicolor wild silk yarn lining, and wild silk yarn is secretly spent lining.
Wild silk yarn mixes knits the weaving method of dyed shell fabrics:
With wild silk yarn precursor and direct looming weaving of other natural silk or the braiding handled through conventional starching, the lining behind the following machine immerses in 90 ℃～100 ℃ conventional auxiliary agents of alkalescence and carries out refining, and bleaching and dyeing are handled.Knit or shuffling ratio when surpassing 20% when wild silk yarn mixes, at this moment to need to carry out starching or softening epipodium and twist with the fingers and handle, to guarantee fabric quality to wild silk yarn.
Said method is strong according to the wild silk yarn refractivity, different with other natural silk refractive power direction, the also different characteristics of tinctorial yield, the structure of conversion facing fabric, change wild silk yarn ratio and distribution, adjust the refining temperature of lining, select different auxiliary agents, carry out coloured differently, it is novel unique just can be made into different style, fabric cloth coatining natural silk of all shapes and colors.
The embodiment of the invention is as follows:
Embodiment one: the primary colors wild silk yarn mixes and knits.
The wild silk yarn starching is handled.The wild silk yarn precursor is immersed 60 ℃ contain in the auxiliary agent warm water, soak into and drenched dried mulberry silk in 60 minutes and carry out refining, drench and do according to common process, machine is mixed on wild silk yarn with 20% and 80% the mulberry silk knits.Lining weaves back machine down, lining is gently refined processing, concrete operations are as follows: lining is immersed in 70 ℃ of aqueous solution that contain 0.3% efficient detergent powder soaked into 40 minutes, after the taking-up, with containing soaking flushing in the 0.2% edible acid solution, carry out lixiviating, decontamination, processing, carry out the arrangement of normal back then.
Embodiment two: bleaching or dyeing wild silk yarn mix knitted fabric
Wild silk yarn 50%, mulberry silk 50%.Wild silk yarn softens, wet silk epipodium is twisted with the fingers together looming weaving of the mulberry silk handling the back and handle through conventional starching.Refining in 90 ℃ of alkaline assistants behind the machine under the lining.The lining that refining is good is the little green that contains of pale green gloss.The process bleaching is handled, and can be refined white wild silk yarn lining fully, shows in the lining to have stealthy colo(u)r streak of the different wild silk yarn that is silvery white of refractivity or pattern etc.To refining the processing of dyeing again of white above-mentioned lining, can obtain being apparent in the dyed shell fabrics painted different wild silk yarn colo(u)r streak again this moment and become pattern if above-mentioned wild silk yarn and mulberry silk are carried out jacquard weaving, after refining bleaching or dyeing, just can obtain the different wild silk yarn figured pattern of color
Embodiment three: the colorful lining of primary colors wild silk yarn
The wild silk yarn processing of in 50 ℃ of water, shrinking, mulberry silk carries out conventional refining bleaching to be handled, dye the monochromatic silk of various different colors, with 10% through primary colors wild silk yarn, 30% yellow wood silk, 30% green mulberry silk, the 30% orange mulberry silk of the above-mentioned processing looming weaving of matching colors, the lining behind the following machine is the colorful lining of primary colors wild silk yarn.
Example four: the processing method of pure wild silk yarn lining:
The wild silk yarn precursor, strand is on crib, copy in the hot water that contains 0.2% food acids about 90 ℃ and boil that machine fills up sth. made by twisting on 15 minutes wet silks, plying is twisted looming weaving processing then again, can produce senior kimonos lining like this, under the lining behind the machine, 50 ℃～80 ℃ contain in 0.3% detergent solution, gently refined flush away alkalescence attachment after the water outlet 60 minutes, carry out the back arrangement then, (not using softener) shade fabric is fabulous.
Claims (7)
1. the primary colors wild silk yarn mixes the weaving method of knitted fabric and pure wild silk yarn lining, it is characterized in that at first wild silk yarn and other natural silk, carry out PROCESS FOR TREATMENT respectively, promptly to the wild silk yarn precursor shrink, processing such as starching is come unstuck, wet silk epipodium sth. made by twisting, can carry out directly that epipodium is twisted with the fingers to precursor as required sometimes or plying is gone up and twisted with the fingers processing.Other natural silk is carried out processing such as conventional refining,, also can knit pure wild silk yarn lining with above-mentioned silk looming weaving after treatment.Lining after being made into is gently refined processing.As can directly going up machined with a day silk fabric.
2. primary colors wild silk yarn according to claim 1 mixes the weaving method of knitted fabric, and the shrink processing method that it is characterized in that said wild silk yarn is wild silk yarn to be immersed in about 50 ℃ the warm water carry out immersion treatment.Also can directly go up machined by precursor.
3. according to claim 1, the primary colors wild silk yarn mixes the weaving method of knitted fabric and pure wild silk yarn lining, it is characterized in that the starching of said wild silk yarn or softening processing of coming unstuck is wild silk yarn to be immersed carry out immersion treatment in 66～80 ℃ the water of being furnished with colourless auxiliary agent or copy in the faintly acid auxiliary agent hot water containing below boiling point and boil, wet silk fills up sth. made by twisting, can guarantee that natural green is lasting
4. primary colors wild silk yarn according to claim 1 mixes the weaving method of knitted fabric, it is characterized in that other natural silk after the refining comprises wild silk yarn before looming weaving, also can carry out conventional bleaching and dyeing and handle.
5. the weaving method that contains the mixed knitted fabric of primary colors wild silk yarn according to claim 1, it is characterized in that behind the following machine that the light smelting method of lining is lining to be immersed 50～80 ℃ contain in 0.2～1% detergent solution or the conventional neutral colourless auxiliary agent and soaked 40～130 minutes, take out the back with the food acids warm water that contains 0.2% carry out lixiviating, decontamination, the processing of removing photoresist.
6. wild silk yarn mixes and to knit the weaving method of dyed shell fabrics, it is characterized in that with wild silk yarn precursor and the direct looming weaving of other natural silk handled through conventional starching, and the lining behind the following machine immerses and carries out refining bleaching in 90 ℃～100 ℃ alkaline assistants or dyeing is handled.
7. wild silk yarn according to claim 6 mixes knits the weaving method of dyed shell fabrics, it is characterized in that using wild silk yarn of handling through starching and other natural silk looming weaving of handling through conventional starching, carry out refining bleaching in 90 ℃～100 ℃ conventional auxiliary agents of alkali alkalescence of the lining immersion behind the following machine, dye and handle.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 94117973 CN1147035A (en) | 1994-11-19 | 1994-11-19 | Method for weaving fashion fabric contg. giant silkworm silk |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 94117973 CN1147035A (en) | 1994-11-19 | 1994-11-19 | Method for weaving fashion fabric contg. giant silkworm silk |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN1147035A true CN1147035A (en) | 1997-04-09 |
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN 94117973 Pending CN1147035A (en) | 1994-11-19 | 1994-11-19 | Method for weaving fashion fabric contg. giant silkworm silk |
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| Country | Link |
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| CN (1) | CN1147035A (en) |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN100434581C (en) * | 2006-01-27 | 2008-11-19 | 湖州珍贝羊绒制品有限公司 | Machine-washable spun silk knitted fabric, and its production process |
| CN102251414A (en) * | 2010-05-21 | 2011-11-23 | 南通凯斯特纺织品有限公司 | Silk dyeing process |
| CN108085837A (en) * | 2018-01-18 | 2018-05-29 | 达利丝绸（浙江）有限公司 | Natural elasticity color-woven fabric production technology comprising mulberry silk boiled-off silk tram |
-
1994
- 1994-11-19 CN CN 94117973 patent/CN1147035A/en active Pending
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN100434581C (en) * | 2006-01-27 | 2008-11-19 | 湖州珍贝羊绒制品有限公司 | Machine-washable spun silk knitted fabric, and its production process |
| CN102251414A (en) * | 2010-05-21 | 2011-11-23 | 南通凯斯特纺织品有限公司 | Silk dyeing process |
| CN108085837A (en) * | 2018-01-18 | 2018-05-29 | 达利丝绸（浙江）有限公司 | Natural elasticity color-woven fabric production technology comprising mulberry silk boiled-off silk tram |
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