CN114683643A - 透气清爽型针织服装及针织工艺 - Google Patents

透气清爽型针织服装及针织工艺 Download PDF

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CN114683643A
CN114683643A CN202210402196.1A CN202210402196A CN114683643A CN 114683643 A CN114683643 A CN 114683643A CN 202210402196 A CN202210402196 A CN 202210402196A CN 114683643 A CN114683643 A CN 114683643A
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洪和金
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Nan'an Nanyi Computer Knitting Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明涉及面料及其加工工艺领域，具体涉及一种透气清爽型针织服装及针织工艺，所述透气清爽型针织服装采用透气复合面料加工而成，所述透气复合面料包括外透湿层和内爽肤层，所述外透湿层的局部纱线向下与内爽肤层交织，在非交织部位两层之间形成夹层，所述夹层内填充抗紫外线粘胶层。本发明在内外两层的针织面料的夹层中填充抗紫外线粘胶起到防风、防水、防紫外线和强化针织结构的作用，肌肤的汗水通过连接点的毛细管传导至外部扩散，具有良好的透气性，内部纱线采用多沟槽纤维，孔隙率高，能够有效导水，内层疏水和外层吸水，形成吸水梯度差，引导液态水从内向外移动，能够有效平衡防水性和透气性，且不改变织物外观。

Description

透气清爽型针织服装及针织工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及面料及其加工工艺领域，具体的涉及透气清爽型针织服装及针织工艺。
背景技术
近年来，随着人们生活品质的提高，功能性纺织品备受广大消费者的青睐。传统户外面料多采用机织、高密、镀膜处理的防风防水面料，为了使面料具有透气性，现有的处理方式一是采用采用导湿排汗纤维与棉纤维等为原料开发高导湿功能性针织物，可以很好地结合合成纤维疏水性强与棉纤维的保水性好的特点；而是采用表面镀透气薄膜，镀膜应该具有微孔，该工艺加工成本高昂，且由于镀膜位于外层，其使用寿命较低；无论采用哪种工艺处理，面料本身的延展性和伸缩性较差，为了提高伸缩性，需要采用针织工艺，但是针织工艺的面料其孔隙较大，防水和防风性能又称为很大的问题，进行镀膜处理又会改变面料本身的外观形态，有鉴于此，本案由此产生。
发明内容
本发明的一个目的是通过透气清爽型针织服装及针织工艺解决至少上述问题。
为解决上述技术问题，本发明采用的技术方案如下：透气清爽型针织服装，其特征在于：所述透气清爽型针织服装采用透气复合面料加工而成，所述透气复合面料包括外透湿层和内爽肤层，所述外透湿层的局部纱线向下与内爽肤层交织，在非交织部位两层之间形成夹层，所述夹层内填充抗紫外线粘胶层。
优选的，所述内爽肤层由采用凉感纱线和抗菌纱线交织而成。
优选的，所述外透湿层由透气纱线和矿物质纱线交织而成，所述透气纱线在交织点向下与内爽肤层交织。
优选的，所述凉感纱线和抗菌纱线截面为中空形。
优选的，所述透气纱线和矿物质纱线截面为十字形。
优选的，所述抗菌纱线的材质为铜离子纤维，所述铜离子纤维包含5-6％的铜离子，所述凉感纱线的材质为玻尿酸纤维，所述玻尿酸纤维包含4-6％的玻尿酸。
优选的，所述透气纱线的材质为亲水改性涤纶纤维，所述矿物质纱线的材质为矿物质纤维，所述矿物质纤维包含3-4％的云母，抗紫外线粘胶层包含5-6％的抗紫外线添加剂。
根据上述的透气清爽型针织服装的针织工艺，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
步骤a、面料通过织机交织而成；
步骤b、对面料进行染色处理；
步骤c、对面料进行双面滚动压胶，使抗紫外线粘胶渗入外透湿层和内爽肤层的夹层；
步骤d、面料烘至半干，所述面料烘干至含水率15-20％；
步骤e、面料进行双面除胶，去除外透湿层和内爽肤层表面的粘胶，只保留夹层内的抗紫外线粘胶；
步骤f、面料烘干热定型，所述热定型的温度为140-145摄氏度，车速为25m/min，超喂率15％。
优选的，所述步骤b中，染料包括如下重量组分原料：活性染料5-6份、芒硝助剂3-4份、匀染剂2-3份、冰醋酸0.5-0.8份、螯合剂0.2-0.4份、纯碱1.5-1.6份，浴比为1:12。
优选的，所述步骤b-e通过内渗透胶定型设备加工，所述内渗透胶定型设备包括依次连接的压胶对辊，预烘干器、除胶对辊、热定型器、超声波清洗器和干燥器，所述压胶对辊的辊筒表面设有出胶孔、内部设有注胶管，所述注胶管将粘胶通过出胶孔压入面料内部，所述压胶对辊后面还设有一对平胶对辊，用于将粘胶沿着面料平面均匀扩散。
由上述描述可知，本发明提供的透气清爽型针织服装及针织工艺具有如下有益效果：本发明在内外两层的针织面料的夹层中填充抗紫外线粘胶起到防风、防水、防紫外线和强化针织结构的作用，且由于抗紫外线粘胶层具有良好的弹性，不会影响针织结构的延展性，使得面料兼具针织面料的延展性和防水性，同时肌肤的汗水通过连接点的毛细管传导至外部扩散，具有良好的透气性，内部纱线采用多沟槽纤维，孔隙率高，能够有效导水，内层疏水和外层吸水，形成吸水梯度差，引导液态水从内向外移动，能够有效平衡防水性和透气性，抗紫外线粘胶隐藏于面料夹层之间，不改变织物外观。
附图说明
图1为透气复合面料的结构示意图。
图2为内渗透胶定型设备的结构示意图。
具体实施方式
以下通过具体实施方式对本发明作进一步的描述。
为使本发明实现的技术手段、创作特征、达成目的与功效易于明白了解，下面结合具体实施方式，进一步阐述本发明。
如图1所示，本发明透气清爽型针织服装，所述透气清爽型针织服装采用透气复合面料加工而成，如图1，所述透气复合面料包括外透湿层1和内爽肤层2，所述外透湿层1的局部纱线向下与内爽肤层2交织，在非交织部位两层之间形成夹层，所述夹层内填充抗紫外线粘胶层3。本发明在内外两层的针织面料的夹层中填充抗紫外线粘胶起到防风、防水、防紫外线和强化针织结构的作用，且由于抗紫外线粘胶层3具有良好的弹性，不会影响针织结构的延展性，使得面料兼具针织面料的延展性和防水性，同时肌肤的汗水通过连接点的毛细管传导至外部扩散，具有良好的透气性，内部纱线采用多沟槽纤维，孔隙率高，能够有效导水，内层疏水和外层吸水，形成吸水梯度差，引导液态水从内向外移动，能够有效平衡防水性和透气性，且不改变织物外观。需要指出的是，虽然只依靠交织点处进行透气，但是由于内外层均具有毛细管，可将汗水引导至交织点处进行扩散，且可以根据需求提高交织点数量，因此相较于传统的薄膜覆盖式户外针织面料具有更良好透气性。
所述内爽肤层2由采用凉感纱线和抗菌纱线交织而成。
所述外透湿层1由透气纱线和矿物质纱线交织而成，所述透气纱线在交织点向下与内爽肤层2交织。内爽肤层2的凉感纱线和抗菌纱线的主要材质为疏水性的丙纶，回潮率为0，因此内爽肤层2在与皮肤接触时具有凉感，能够降低皮肤温度，且不会粘附皮肤上，且凉感纱线和抗菌纱线为异形截面，能够利用芯吸作用快速的将汗液传导至与外透湿层1的交织点；外透湿层1的透气纱线主要材质为亲水性的涤纶，其纤维在化学结构中引入磺酸基和醚键亲水基团，在亲水性的基础上还引入亲水因子以提升毛细管芯吸效果，透气纱线回潮率可达0.8-1％，交织点处透气纱线吸收来自内爽肤层2的汗液，并将汗液传导至整个内爽肤层2，并扩散和蒸发，利用内外层纤维回潮率的差别可使织物具有单向导湿功能，保证人体肌肤和织物之间的干爽透气。
所述凉感纱线和抗菌纱线截面为中空形。
所述透气纱线和矿物质纱线截面为十字形。同样的纤维直径下，十字形截面较中空截面的毛细管更细，因此外层的毛细管引力比内层大，引力差作用下使得面料具有单向的导湿性能。
所述抗菌纱线的材质为铜离子纤维，所述铜离子纤维包含5-6％的铜离子，所述凉感纱线的材质为玻尿酸纤维，所述玻尿酸纤维包含4-6％的玻尿酸。铜具有良好的抗菌性能，因此铜离子纤维具有良好的抗菌性且耐久性好，铜离子通过混纺法引入丙纶；玻尿酸纤维在于人体接触的过程中，玻尿酸分子能渗透至皮肤表层，消除紫外线照射产生的活性氧自由基。
所述透气纱线的材质为亲水改性涤纶纤维，所述矿物质纱线的材质为矿物质纤维，所述矿物质纤维包含3-4％的云母，抗紫外线粘胶层3包含5-6％的抗紫外线添加剂。云母具有良好的吸水性和导热性，使得矿物质纱线也具有降温的作用，纳米云母在纤维或纱线中呈同向性排列，此时云母薄膜层厚度减小，边界散射效应对热传导的影响逐渐显著，使得垂直于薄膜方向的热传导系数降低，但横向的热传导系数却逐步上升，于是热传导在横向上速度变快，因此，云母冰凉纤维的导热性能优异。
根据上述的透气清爽型针织服装的针织工艺，包括如下步骤：
步骤a、面料通过织机交织而成；
步骤b、对面料进行染色处理；
步骤c、对面料进行双面滚动压胶，使抗紫外线粘胶渗入外透湿层1和内爽肤层2的夹层；
步骤d、面料烘至半干，所述面料烘干至含水率15-20％；
步骤e、面料进行双面除胶，去除外透湿层1和内爽肤层2表面的粘胶，只保留夹层内的抗紫外线粘胶；
步骤f、面料烘干热定型，所述热定型的温度为140-145摄氏度，车速为25m/min，超喂率15％。
所述步骤b中，染料包括如下重量组分原料：活性染料5-6份、芒硝助剂3-4份、匀染剂2-3份、冰醋酸0.5-0.8份、螯合剂0.2-0.4份、纯碱1.5-1.6份，浴比为1:12。
如图2，所述步骤b-e通过内渗透胶定型设备加工，所述内渗透胶定型设备包括依次连接的压胶对辊4，预烘干器5、除胶对辊6、热定型器7、超声波清洗器8和干燥器9，所述压胶对辊4的辊筒表面设有出胶孔、内部设有注胶管，所述注胶管将粘胶通过出胶孔压入面料内部，所述压胶对辊4后面还设有一对平胶对辊，用于将粘胶沿着面料平面均匀扩散。
在本发明的描述中，需要理解的是，术语“上”、“下”、“前”、“后”、“左”、“右”、“顶”、“底”、“内”、“外”等指示的方位或位置关系为基于附图所示的方位或位置关系，仅是为了便于描述本发明和简化描述，而不是指示或暗示所指的装置或元件必须具有特定的方位、以特定的方位构造和操作，因此不能理解为对本发明的限制，本说明书中未作详细描述的内容属于本领域专业技术人员公知的现有技术。
在本发明的描述中，需要说明的是，除非另有明确的规定和限定，术语“安装”、“相连”、“设置”应做广义理解，例如，可以是固定相连、设置，也可以是可拆卸连接、设置，或一体地连接、设置；本发明中提供的用电器的型号仅供参考。对于本领域的普通技术人员而言，可以根据实际使用情况更换功能相同的不同型号用电器，对于本领域的普通技术人员而言，可以具体情况理解上述术语在本发明中的具体含义。
上述仅为本发明的若干具体实施方式，但本发明的设计构思并不局限于此，凡利用此构思对本发明进行非实质性的改动，均应属于侵犯本发明保护范围的行为。

Claims (10)

1.透气清爽型针织服装，其特征在于：所述透气清爽型针织服装采用透气复合面料加工而成，所述透气复合面料包括外透湿层和内爽肤层，所述外透湿层的局部纱线向下与内爽肤层交织，在非交织部位两层之间形成夹层，所述夹层内填充抗紫外线粘胶层。
2.根据权利要求1所述的透气清爽型针织服装，其特征在于：所述内爽肤层由采用凉感纱线和抗菌纱线交织而成。
3.根据权利要求1所述的透气清爽型针织服装，其特征在于：所述外透湿层由透气纱线和矿物质纱线交织而成，所述透气纱线在交织点向下与内爽肤层交织。
4.根据权利要求1所述的透气清爽型针织服装，其特征在于：所述凉感纱线和抗菌纱线截面为中空形。
5.根据权利要求1所述的透气清爽型针织服装，其特征在于：所述透气纱线和矿物质纱线截面为十字形。
6.根据权利要求1所述的透气清爽型针织服装，其特征在于：所述抗菌纱线的材质为铜离子纤维，所述铜离子纤维包含5-6％的铜离子，所述凉感纱线的材质为玻尿酸纤维，所述玻尿酸纤维包含4-6％的玻尿酸。
7.根据权利要求1所述的透气清爽型针织服装，其特征在于：所述透气纱线的材质为亲水改性涤纶纤维，所述矿物质纱线的材质为矿物质纤维，所述矿物质纤维包含3-4％的云母，抗紫外线粘胶层包含5-6％的抗紫外线添加剂。
8.根据权利要求1-7所述的透气清爽型针织服装的针织工艺，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
步骤a、面料通过织机交织而成；
步骤b、对面料进行染色处理；
步骤c、对面料进行双面滚动压胶，使抗紫外线粘胶渗入外透湿层和内爽肤层的夹层；
步骤d、面料烘至半干，所述面料烘干至含水率15-20％；
步骤e、面料进行双面除胶，去除外透湿层和内爽肤层表面的粘胶，只保留夹层内的抗紫外线粘胶；
步骤f、面料烘干热定型，所述热定型的温度为140-145摄氏度，车速为25m/min，超喂率15％。
9.根据权利要求8所述的透气清爽型针织服装及针织工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤b中，染料包括如下重量组分原料：活性染料5-6份、芒硝助剂3-4份、匀染剂2-3份、冰醋酸0.5-0.8份、螯合剂0.2-0.4份、纯碱1.5-1.6份，浴比为1:12。
10.根据权利要求8所述的透气清爽型针织服装及针织工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤b-e通过内渗透胶定型设备加工，所述内渗透胶定型设备包括依次连接的压胶对辊，预烘干器、除胶对辊、热定型器、超声波清洗器和干燥器，所述压胶对辊的辊筒表面设有出胶孔、内部设有注胶管，所述注胶管将粘胶通过出胶孔压入面料内部，所述压胶对辊后面还设有一对平胶对辊，用于将粘胶沿着面料平面均匀扩散。
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