CN114668689A - Foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil and a preparation method thereof, wherein the cleansing oil comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-6 parts of a first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; 5-15 parts of a second polyglycerin fatty acid ester; 0.1-5 parts of oil-soluble surfactant; 10-30 parts of polyhydric alcohol; 30-60 parts of liquid grease; 5-15 parts of water. The preparation method comprises the following steps: A. uniformly stirring and mixing the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, and heating to 50-80 ℃ to obtain a component A; B. stirring and mixing the oil-soluble surfactant, the polyalcohol and the liquid oil with the component A uniformly at the temperature of 50-80 ℃ to obtain a component B; C. and cooling the component B to 40 ℃, slowly adding water into the component B at the stirring speed of 500 plus 1000rpm, and stirring until the mixture is transparent to obtain the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil. The makeup removing and cleaning device has the characteristics of effectively improving the makeup removing and cleaning effect and avoiding excessive cleaning caused by continuous cleaning.

Description

Foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to cleansing oil, in particular to foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Modern color cosmetic products generally have both water and oil components, contain a large amount of grease, powder, solid wax, film forming agents and the like, have strong waterproof and sweat-proof functions and strong skin-sticking property, and need to be cleaned by using makeup removing products. The major makeup removing products on the market can be divided into makeup removing oil, makeup removing cream, makeup removing lotion and the like according to the dosage form. The makeup remover mainly comprises two types according to the principle of makeup removal, namely a makeup remover water product taking a surfactant as a main component, and the main principle is that the surfactant is taken as a cleaning agent to form micelle to remove color makeup. The other is an oil makeup removing product, and the main principle is that the oil is used for dissolving makeup in accordance with the similar compatibility principle, so that the makeup removing effect is achieved. However, the aqueous makeup remover product has the advantages and the disadvantages that the cleaning capability is not strong, the stimulation caused by the surfactant is large, the makeup remover needs to be wiped by using cosmetic cotton, the physical friction exists in the makeup removing process, the skin cuticle is damaged after long-term use, and the makeup remover is not suitable for people with sensitive muscles. The oil makeup removing product has strong makeup removing capability and is mild, hands cannot be wetted when the oil makeup removing product is used, the use feeling is greasy, the residual feeling is strong, the skin feeling is not good, most of the oil makeup removing product needs to be matched with a face cleaning product for secondary cleaning after the oil makeup removing product is used, the skin is continuously degreased by a large amount of surfactants, and the skin can be obviously dry and tight after being washed.

The prior product technology has a makeup removing product compounded by grease, surfactant and water, and can improve the makeup removing effect to a certain extent, reduce the greasy feeling and improve the use feeling. However, the residual feeling after washing is obvious, secondary cleaning is still needed by matching with facial cleanser, the use is troublesome, and the problems that the degreasing force on the skin is strong due to continuous cleaning, the skin is dry and tight after cleaning and the like can not be solved. On the other hand, the bicontinuous phase makeup removal products of the prior art use mainly nonionic surfactants, for example surfactants based on polyethylene glycol (PEG), which are mostly non-biodegradable. In addition, PEG may be contaminated with 1, 4-dioxane due to the production process. PEG-based surfactants are not easily degraded and can be left in the environment for a long time after being discharged into the environment, and thus cleansing cosmetics based on PEG-based surfactants have a problem of causing environmental pollution and destruction. Most makeup removing products disclosed in the prior art can only remove water-soluble makeup or oil-soluble makeup, cannot give consideration to multiple types of makeup removing products, are not ideal in makeup removing effect, can completely clean the face only by being matched with subsequent facial washing products, and have overlarge cleaning force on the skin, so that the skin problems of dryness, barrier damage and the like are easily caused. Therefore, the prior art has the problem of unsatisfactory makeup removing and cleaning effects.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil and a preparation method thereof. The cleansing agent has the characteristics of effectively improving the makeup removing and cleaning effects and avoiding excessive cleaning caused by continuous cleaning.

The technical scheme of the invention is as follows: a foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-6 parts of a first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; 5-15 parts of a second polyglycerin fatty acid ester; 0.1-5 parts of oil-soluble surfactant; 10-30 parts of polyhydric alcohol; 30-60 parts of liquid grease; 5-15 parts of water.

In the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil, the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has 2 to 6 glycerin units and an HLB value of 3 to 8; the first polyglycerin fatty acid ester includes at least one polyglycerin fatty acid diester, at least one polyglycerin fatty acid triester and/or at least one polyglycerin fatty acid ester having a branched structure.

In the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil, the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is one or more of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and polyglyceryl-5 trioleate.

In the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil, the second polyglycerin fatty acid ester has more than or equal to 10 glycerin units and an HBL value of more than or equal to 15; the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester monoester.

In the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil, the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is one or more of polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate and polyglyceryl-10 stearate.

In the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil, the oil-soluble surfactant is one or more of lauryl alcohol polyether surfactant, polysorbate surfactant, alkyl glycoside surfactant and amino acid surfactant.

In the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil, the polyol is one or more of glycerol, 1, 3-propanediol and 1, 3-butanediol.

In the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil, the liquid oil is one or more of synthetic oil, vegetable oil and mineral oil.

A preparation method of foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil comprises the following steps:

A. uniformly stirring and mixing the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, and heating to 50-80 ℃ to obtain a component A;

B. Stirring and mixing the oil-soluble surfactant, the polyalcohol and the liquid oil with the component A uniformly at the temperature of 50-80 ℃ to obtain a component B;

C. and cooling the component B to 40-45 ℃, slowly adding water into the component B at the stirring speed of 500 plus materials at 1000rpm, and stirring until the mixture is transparent to obtain the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil.

Compared with the prior art, the bicontinuous phase makeup remover oil with foaming performance, which is prepared from the polyglycerol fatty acid ester surfactant, is environment-friendly, has good stability, excellent makeup removing effect, fresh use feeling and higher foam amount, does not need secondary cleaning, is convenient to use, and really realizes the double-effect integration of makeup removing and cleaning. Moreover, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is a novel high-efficiency nonionic surfactant, is prepared by esterifying natural glycerol and fatty acid at high temperature, can be decomposed into glycerol and fat in the metabolic process, is absorbed by a human body or discharged out of the body, and has high safety. The polyglycerol fatty acid ester can be used in cleaning cosmetics to avoid the generation of environmental pollutants. In conclusion, the makeup removing and cleaning device has the characteristics of effectively improving the makeup removing and cleaning effect and avoiding excessive cleaning caused by continuous cleaning.

Detailed Description

The present invention is further illustrated by the following examples, which are not to be construed as limiting the invention.

Example 1. A foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-6 parts of a first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; 5-15 parts of a second polyglycerin fatty acid ester; 0.1-5 parts of oil-soluble surfactant; 10-30 parts of polyhydric alcohol; 30-60 parts of liquid grease; 5-15 parts of water.

The first polyglycerin fatty acid ester has 2 to 6 glycerin units and an HLB value of 3 to 8; the first polyglycerin fatty acid ester includes at least one polyglycerin fatty acid diester and/or at least one polyglycerin fatty acid triester and/or at least one polyglycerin fatty acid ester having a branched structure.

The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is one or more of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and polyglyceryl-5 trioleate.

The second polyglycerin fatty acid ester has 10 glycerin units or more and an HBL value of 15 or more; the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester monoester.

The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is one or more of polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, and polyglyceryl-10 stearate.

The oil-soluble surfactant is one or more of lauryl alcohol polyether surfactant, polysorbate surfactant, alkyl glycoside surfactant, and amino acid surfactant.

The polyalcohol is one or more of glycerol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, and 1, 3-butanediol.

The liquid oil is one or more of synthetic oil, vegetable oil and mineral oil.

The liquid oil is one or more of caprylic/capric triglyceride, coco-caprylate/caprate, C9-12 alkyl, and C12-13 alcohol lactate.

A preparation method of foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil comprises the following steps:

A. uniformly stirring and mixing the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, and heating to 50-80 ℃ to obtain a component A;

B. stirring and mixing the oil-soluble surfactant, the polyalcohol and the liquid oil with the component A uniformly at the temperature of 50-80 ℃ to obtain a component B;

C. and cooling the component B to 40-45 ℃, slowly adding water into the component B at the stirring speed of 500 plus materials at 1000rpm, and stirring until the mixture is transparent to obtain the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil.

Example 2: polyglycerol-10 laurate, 7 g; polyglycerol-4 oleate, 9 g; polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, 1.5 g; 0.5 g of polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate; polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate, 0.5 g; 1.5 grams of a cocamidosarcosine MIPA salt; caprylic/capric triglyceride, 15 grams; c9-12 alkyl, 10 g; isopropyl myristate, 5 g; squalane, 5 g; 1, 3-propanediol, 15 g; 15 g of glycerol; water, 15 g.

The preparation method comprises the following steps: weighing 7 g of polyglycerol-10 laurate, 9 g of polyglycerol-4 oleate, 1.5 g of polyglycerol-2 isostearate, 0.5 g of polyglycerol-3 diisostearate and 0.5 g of polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate, uniformly stirring, mixing, heating to 60 ℃, and adding 1.5 g of cocamidosarcosine MIPA salt, 15 g of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 10 g of C9-12 alkane and 5 g of isopropyl myristate; 5 g of squalane; stirring and mixing 15 g of 1, 3-propylene glycol and 15 g of glycerol uniformly at 60 ℃, cooling to about 45 ℃, slowly adding 15 g of water while stirring, and stirring until the mixture is transparent to obtain the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil.

Example 3: polyglycerol-10 laurate, 10 grams; polyglycerol-3 decanoate, 4 g; polyglycerol-2 decanoate, 2 g; polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, 2 grams; laureth sulfate TIPA salt, 2 g; c15-19 alkyl, 10 g; 5 g of C12-13 alcohol lactate; coco-caprylate/caprate, 25 grams; isododecane, 10 grams; 1, 3-propanediol, 5 g; 5 g of 1, 3-butanediol; 5 g of glycerol; water, 15 g.

The preparation method comprises the following steps: weighing 10 g of polyglycerol-10 laurate, 4 g of polyglycerol-3 caprate, 2 g of polyglycerol-2 caprate and 2 g of polyglycerol-3 diisostearate, uniformly mixing and heating to 60 ℃, adding 2 g of laureth sulfate TIPA salt, 10 g of C15-19 alkane, 5 g of C12-13 alcohol lactate, 25 g of coconut oil alcohol-caprylate/caprate, 10 g of isododecane, 5 g of 1, 3-propanediol, 5 g of 1, 3-butanediol and 5 g of glycerol, uniformly mixing and stirring at 60 ℃, cooling to about 45 ℃, slowly adding 15 g of water while stirring, and stirring until the mixture is transparent to obtain the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil.

Bicontinuous phase testing:

the blue water-soluble dye and the red oil-soluble dye were dropped into example 2, and the diffusion of the dyes in the examples was observed. The blue water-soluble pigment and the red oil-soluble pigment are diffused in the examples, which indicates that the cleansing oil prepared by the invention is a water-oil bicontinuous phase.

And (3) testing the stability:

the examples were stored at 45 ℃ and 25 ℃ and at 5 ℃ to-5 ℃ for 1 month, and the appearance and odor of the examples were observed after returning to room temperature. The examples are stored at 45 ℃, 25 ℃, 5 ℃ and-5 ℃ for 1 month, and then the products are recovered to room temperature, and the products are transparent, stable and uniform in appearance and free of bad smell, which indicates that the invention has good stability.

And (3) testing the makeup removing force:

50 volunteers of 22-35 years old firstly cleaned the bent sides of the left forearm and the right forearm with clear water, gently sucked dry with a paper towel, and then stood still in a constant temperature and humidity environment for 30 minutes to make the skin reach a stable state. The inner sides of the different forearms were marked with 4 areas of 3cm × 3cm as test areas, and the 3 test areas were numbered L1, L2, L3, L4, R1, R2, R3, R4, respectively. After sitting still for 30 minutes, images were collected from each test area using a microscope, and the skin L, a, b values after application of lipstick and eyeliner were measured by a spectrocolorimeter. The areas L1, L2, L3 and R1, R2, R3 were prepared using the commercial makeup remover oil of example 1 and the commercial bicontinuous phase makeup remover oil of comparative example 2 in a 1mL syringe. Then the mixture is washed clean by clear water and is slightly dried by paper towel. And standing for 30min, collecting images of the test areas by using a microscope, and measuring the values of L, a and b of the skin after makeup removal and cleaning by using a spectrophotometer. L represents the whiteness of black, the larger the value of L, the more white the skin, otherwise, the more black; a represents the red-green chroma, the skin is more red when the value of a is larger, and is more green when the value of a is larger; b indicates the degree of blue-yellow, and the larger the value of b indicates that the skin is more yellow, and conversely is blue. The laboratory keeps constant temperature and humidity, the testing temperature is 23-24 ℃, and the relative humidity is 50-60%. The cleaning force calculation method is as follows:

Cleaning power% (% Δ E (after application) - Δe (after cleaning)/Δe (after application)) × 100%

△E＝SQRT(△L*2+△a*2+△b*2)

Δ E (after painting): skin color was poor after applying foundation/lipstick compared to the initial state

Δ E (after cleaning): poor skin tone after makeup removal and cleansing compared to the initial state

The delta E can comprehensively reflect the three-dimensional change of skin chromaticity, the more the delta E value is, the more obvious the change of skin color is, and the less the delta E value is, the closer the skin color is.

Sample (I)	Cleaning power (lipstick)	Cleaning power (eyeliner)
			Example 2	90.32％	88.35％
Example 3	92.56％	93.43％
			Comparative example 1	78.52％	65.43％
Comparative example 2	85.72％	79.68％

The experimental result shows that compared with the proportion, the cleansing and makeup removing capability of the embodiment prepared by the invention is obviously improved, and the makeup removing oil disclosed by the invention has excellent makeup removing performance on oil-soluble makeup and water-soluble makeup.

The use feeling test:

50 volunteers aged 22-35 years firstly cleaned the left forearm and the right forearm of the bent side with clear water, gently dried with a paper towel, and then stood still in a constant temperature and humidity environment for 30 minutes to make the skin reach a stable state. Marking 2 areas with the area of 3cm multiplied by 3cm on the inner sides of different forearms as test areas, wherein the interval between each area is at least 2cm, and then smearing lipstick, an eyeliner and foundation liquid in the areas respectively and then sitting still for 30 minutes. Corresponding to the smearing example and the comparative example, 0.2mL is applied to a designated test area, after massage is carried out for 30 seconds in a circling mode, 0.2mL of clean water is added for emulsification massage for 30 seconds, the mixture is washed clean by clean water, and the moisture is slightly sucked by a paper towel for scoring.

Refreshing degree: 1-5 points, wherein the oil feel is 1 point when massaging, and the skin feel is 5 points when massaging;

removing makeup: 1-5 minutes, 1 minute of residue and 5 minutes of complete removal;

residual feeling: 1-5 points, the oil feeling residue is 1 point, and the refreshing residue-free is 5 points;

foam amount: 1-5 points, 1 part of no foam and 5 points of abundant foam.

Sample (I)	Degree of freshness	Makeup remover	Feeling of residue	Amount of foam
					Example 2	4.13	4.37	4.34	3.58
Example 3	4.02	4.28	4.51	3.47
					Comparative example 1	3.02	3.82	3.04	1.03
Comparative example 2	3.58	3.76	3.12	1.32

The experimental result shows that the cleansing oil prepared by the invention has better cleaness, cleansing power, residual feeling and foam quantity than the cleansing oil of a comparative example, particularly in the aspect of foam quantity, the traditional cleansing oil has no foam, and the residual feeling after cleansing is stronger, while the bicontinuous phase cleansing oil prepared by the invention has richer foam, has no obvious residual feeling after use, and does not need secondary cleaning.

Claims (9)

1. The foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 1-6 parts of a first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; 5-15 parts of a second polyglycerin fatty acid ester; 0.1-5 parts of oil-soluble surfactant; 10-30 parts of polyhydric alcohol; 30-60 parts of liquid grease; 5-15 parts of water.

2. A foaming bicontinuous phase cleansing oil in accordance with claim 1 characterized by: the first polyglycerin fatty acid ester has 2 to 6 glycerin units and an HLB value of 3 to 8; the first polyglycerin fatty acid ester includes at least one polyglycerin fatty acid diester, at least one polyglycerin fatty acid triester and/or at least one polyglycerin fatty acid ester having a branched structure.

3. A foaming bicontinuous phase cleansing oil in accordance with claim 1 characterized by: the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is one or more of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and polyglyceryl-5 trioleate.

4. A foaming bicontinuous phase cleansing oil in accordance with claim 1 characterized by: the second polyglycerin fatty acid ester has 10 glycerin units or more and an HBL value of 15 or more; the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid monoester.

5. A foaming bicontinuous phase cleansing oil in accordance with claim 1 characterized by: the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is one or more of polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, and polyglyceryl-10 stearate.

6. A foaming bicontinuous phase cleansing oil in accordance with claim 1 characterized by: the oil-soluble surfactant is one or more of lauryl alcohol polyether surfactant, polysorbate surfactant, alkyl glycoside surfactant, and amino acid surfactant.

7. A foaming bicontinuous phase cleansing oil in accordance with claim 1 characterized by: the polyalcohol is one or more of glycerol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, and 1, 3-butanediol.

8. A foaming bicontinuous phase cleansing oil in accordance with claim 1 characterized by: the liquid oil is one or more of synthetic oil, vegetable oil and mineral oil.

9. Method for preparing a foamed bicontinuous phase makeup remover according to any of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

A. uniformly stirring and mixing the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, and heating to 50-80 ℃ to obtain a component A;

B. stirring and mixing the oil-soluble surfactant, the polyalcohol and the liquid oil with the component A uniformly at the temperature of 50-80 ℃ to obtain a component B;

C. and cooling the component B to 40-45 ℃, slowly adding water into the component B at the stirring speed of 500 plus materials at 1000rpm, and stirring until the mixture is transparent to obtain the foaming type bicontinuous phase cleansing oil.