CN114507927A - Fine denier acetate elastic double-faced fabric and production process thereof - Google Patents
Fine denier acetate elastic double-faced fabric and production process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN114507927A CN114507927A CN202210087746.5A CN202210087746A CN114507927A CN 114507927 A CN114507927 A CN 114507927A CN 202210087746 A CN202210087746 A CN 202210087746A CN 114507927 A CN114507927 A CN 114507927A
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 104
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 title claims abstract description 27
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 98
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 70
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 62
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 229920006239 diacetate fiber Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 claims description 19
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000007599 discharging Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000012938 design process Methods 0.000 claims 2
- 229920006221 acetate fiber Polymers 0.000 claims 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 abstract description 2
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 9
- 238000009990 desizing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 2
- 241001589086 Bellapiscis medius Species 0.000 description 1
- 230000003796 beauty Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005336 cracking Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002045 lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000013386 optimize process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000001048 orange dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001044 red dye Substances 0.000 description 1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/41—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/28—Cellulose esters or ethers, e.g. cellulose acetate
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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Abstract
The invention discloses a fine denier acetate elastic double-faced fabric and a production process thereof, belonging to the technical field of spinning. The invention adopts the following procedures: fabric weave design → warp and weft yarn treatment → fabric weaving → fabric dyeing and finishing → finished product inspection; wherein the fabric weave design: the warp adopts fine denier diacetate fiber, the weft adopts double-component elastic terylene SSY high stretch yarn, and the tissue is 4/4 double-sided tissue; the warp treatment process comprises the following steps: twisting → sizing → stripping and drawing → drafting → reeding; the weft yarn treatment process comprises the following steps: spooling → twisting → shaping → rewinding; fabric dyeing and finishing process: dyeing pretreatment → dyeing → soft padding and drying for shaping. The production process of the invention adopts fine denier diacetate silk as warp, so that the produced fabric has stronger silk sense, softer hand feeling and finer silk surface, the warp density of the fabric reaches more than 100 pieces/cm, the acetic acid accounts for more than 55 percent, and the fabric can better embody the excellent performance of diacetate fiber.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, in particular to a fine denier acetate elastic double-faced fabric and a production process thereof.
Background
The gram weight of the diacetate silk product on the market is 100g/m2The left and right light satin fabrics are substantially absent. The production of the silk satin substitute which can replace silk satin and can embody the excellent performance of diacetate silk: the touch feeling is smooth like silk, elegant and drooping, withThe product with pearl-like luster can shape attractive curve, is beautiful and elastic, is environment-friendly, comfortable and novel, and brings beauty and enjoyment to people, and can truly reflect the unique style characteristics of the product only by realizing the product through an optimized process. The low strength is the main reason of the difficulty in producing the diacetate yarn products, and particularly, fluffing and broken ends are easy to occur in the production process when high-density warps are made.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide an elastic double-faced fabric with fine denier diacetate yarns as warps and high elastic yarns as wefts and a production process thereof aiming at the defects of the prior art, so that diacetate yarns can better reflect the unique style characteristics of the diacetate yarns.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
a production process of fine denier acetate elastic double-faced fabric adopts the following procedures:
fabric weave design → warp and weft yarn treatment → fabric weaving → fabric dyeing and finishing → finished product inspection;
wherein the warp treatment process comprises the following steps: twisting → sizing → stripping and drawing → drafting → reeding;
the weft yarn treatment process comprises the following steps: spooling → twisting → shaping → rewinding;
fabric dyeing and finishing process: dyeing pretreatment → dyeing → soft padding and drying for shaping.
Preferably, in the fabric weave design procedure, the warp yarns adopt fine denier diacetate fiber yarns with the twist degree of 1200-1400T/m, and the weft yarns adopt bicomponent elastic terylene SSY high-stretch yarns with the twist degree of 1800-2000T/m.
Preferably, in the fabric weave design step, the weave is an 4/4 double-faced weave, and the warp density is 100-110 threads/cm.
Preferably, in the warp yarn processing flow, the twisting step is carried out by an italian/RPR twister, and the twist: 1200T/m, twist direction: s, twisting speed: 3800 + -3%, tension 5 + -2 g; shaping: setting temperature is 80 ℃, and setting time is 100 minutes; the step of strip warp lifting adopts an Italian/TAIANA strip warp lifting machine, the number of warp lifting swinging barrels is 560, the warp lifting amplitude is 187cm, the vehicle speed is 150 +/-5 m/min, the tension is 6 +/-2 CN, and the warp beam coiling hardness is 70+ 5; drafting procedure: 1-16 heald and smooth; a reed passing procedure: 6 yarns/tooth, reed width 186.5 cm.
Preferably, in the weft yarn processing flow, an Italian/COLLEONI winding machine is adopted in the winding process, and the winding speed is 460 +/-50 rpm; the winding tension is 4 +/-2 g; twisting process adopts Italian/RPR twisting machine to twist, and the twist: 1800T/m, twist direction: s and Z, twist speed: 3700 plus or minus 3 percent and 5 plus or minus 2g of tension; the setting temperature of the setting process is 80 ℃, and the setting time is 100 minutes; the rewinding speed of the rewinding process is 450 +/-50 rpm, and the tension is 6-8 cN.
Preferably, in the fabric weaving process, an R9000 rapier loom is adopted, the speed is 300R/min, the upper tension is 20 +/-3 CN, and the back beam height is + 1.
Preferably, in the fabric dyeing and finishing process, the pre-dyeing process is used for pre-washing, refining and washing the grey fabric obtained in the fabric weaving process.
Preferably, the dyeing process adopts a disperse medium temperature one-bath method to dye the embryonic silk obtained by the dyeing pretreatment process, and comprises the following steps: cloth feeding → disperse dye dyeing → liquid discharging → cleaning and reducing → cylinder discharging.
The fine denier acetate yarn elastic double-sided fabric is produced by adopting the production process of the fine denier acetate yarn elastic double-sided fabric, the warp yarns adopt fine denier diacetate yarns, and the weft yarns adopt double-component elastic terylene SSY high-elastic yarns.
Preferably, the fine denier acetate yarn elastic double-sided fabric is 4/4 double-sided fabric, the warp density is 100-110 pieces/cm, and the acetic acid content is more than 55%.
The beneficial effects of the invention are:
(1) the production process of the invention adopts fine denier diacetate silk as warp, so that the produced fabric has stronger silk sense, softer hand feeling and finer silk surface, the warp density of the fabric reaches more than 100 pieces/cm, the acetic acid accounts for more than 55 percent, and the fabric can better embody the excellent performance of diacetate fiber.
(2) The fine denier diacetate yarns of the invention are twisted in middle and high twisting, so that the strength, cohesive force and smoothness of the yarns are increased, wherein the strength of the fine denier diacetate yarns can be increased by more than 25 percent after twisting, which is beneficial to weaving production and improving the grade of fabrics, and meanwhile, the fine denier diacetate yarns can be twisted in middle and high twisting without sizing, thereby simplifying the working procedures and saving the production time.
(3) The weft yarn adopts the bi-component elastic terylene SSY high stretch yarn as the raw material, the high stretch yarn has comfortable elasticity and good rebound resilience, the elasticity is lasting, the drapability is good, after the high twist treatment, the fabric has more specific stable elasticity, the fabric does not fatigue and feels soft and smooth, and the wearing comfort, the aesthetic feeling for shaping the body, the high-grade feeling and the non-ironing performance are further improved.
(4) The fabric of the invention adopts 4/4 double-sided tissue matched with high warp density, so that the front and back sides of the fabric form the satin effect of the warp support surface, and the weft yarn is arranged between the warp support surfaces formed by the front and back sides, so that the silk surface is more exquisite and has strong satin feeling, and the excellent performance of the diacetate silk can be better embodied.
Drawings
The invention is further illustrated with reference to the following figures and examples.
Fig. 1 is a fabric weave diagram of the production process of the fine denier acetate elastic double-faced fabric.
Fig. 2 is the front side of the fabric sample made by the production process of the fine denier acetate elastic double-sided fabric.
FIG. 3 is the reverse side of the fabric cloth made by the process of the invention.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further described with reference to the following examples.
Example 1
A production process of fine denier acetate elastic double-faced fabric comprises the following process flows:
fabric weave design → warp and weft yarn treatment → fabric weaving → fabric dyeing and finishing → finished product inspection;
wherein the warp treatment process comprises the following steps: twisting → sizing → stripping and drawing → drafting → reeding;
the weft yarn treatment process comprises the following steps: spooling → twisting → shaping → rewinding;
fabric dyeing and finishing process: dyeing pretreatment → dyeing → soft padding and drying for shaping.
Wherein: in the fabric weave design procedure, the warp yarns adopt 45D/25F diacetate fiber fine denier yarns with the twist degree of 1200T/m, the weft yarns adopt 50D/24F bicomponent elastic terylene SSY high-elastic yarns with the twist degree of 1800T/m, the weave is 4/4 double-faced weave (as shown in figure 1), and the warp-direction density is 100-110 yarns/cm.
And (3) a warp yarn treatment process: twisting → sizing → stripping and drawing → drafting → reeding, wherein the twisting process adopts an Italian/RPR twisting machine to twist, and the twist: 1200T/m, twist direction: s, twisting speed: 3800 + -3%, tension 5 + -2 g; shaping: setting temperature is 80 ℃, and setting time is 100 minutes; the step of strip warp lifting adopts an Italian/TAIANA strip warp lifting machine, the number of warp lifting swinging barrels is 560, the warp lifting amplitude is 187cm, the vehicle speed is 150 +/-5 m/min, the tension is 6 +/-2 CN, and the warp beam coiling hardness is 70+ 5; drafting procedure: 1-16 heald and smooth; a reed passing procedure: 6 yarns/tooth, reed width 186.5 cm.
The weft yarn treatment process sequentially comprises the following steps: spooling → twisting → sizing → rewinding, wherein the silk winding process adopts an Italian/COLLEONI silk winding machine, and the silk winding speed is 460 +/-50 rpm; the winding tension is 4 +/-2 g; twisting procedure adopts Italian/RPR twisting machine to twist, and the twist: 1800T/m, twist direction: s and Z, twist speed: 3700 plus or minus 3 percent and 5 plus or minus 2g of tension; the setting temperature of the setting process is 80 ℃, and the setting time is 100 minutes; the rewinding speed of the rewinding process is 450 +/-50 rpm, and the tension is 6-8 cN.
The fabric weaving process comprises the following steps: the rapier loom of R9000 is adopted, the speed is 300R/min, the upper tension is 20 +/-3 CN, and the height of a rear beam is + 1.
Fabric dyeing and finishing process: dyeing pretreatment → dyeing → soft padding and drying for shaping.
The dyeing pretreatment process is to pre-wash, refine and wash the grey cloth obtained in the fabric weaving process.
The dyeing process adopts a disperse medium-temperature one-bath method for dyeing the embryonic silk obtained by the dyeing pretreatment process, and comprises the following process steps: cloth feeding → disperse dye dyeing → liquid discharging → cleaning reduction → vat discharging, wherein the disperse dye dyeing adopts red dye liquor.
The post-finishing process comprises the following steps: sewing → overflow desizing → dewatering → scutching → one-time super-softness → loose water washing → two-time super-softness → tentering and shaping → printing-finished product.
Example 2
A production process of fine denier acetate elastic double-faced fabric comprises the following process flows:
fabric weave design → warp and weft yarn treatment → fabric weaving → fabric dyeing and finishing → finished product inspection;
wherein the warp treatment process comprises the following steps: twisting → sizing → stripping and drawing → drafting → reeding;
the weft yarn treatment process comprises the following steps: spooling → twisting → shaping → rewinding;
fabric dyeing and finishing process: dyeing pretreatment → dyeing → soft padding and drying for shaping.
Wherein: in the fabric weave design procedure, the warp yarns adopt 45D/25F bright acetate yarns, the twist is 1200T/m, the weft yarns adopt 50D/24F bicomponent terylene SSY, the twist is 1800T/m, the weave is 4/4 double-sided weave (shown in figure 1), and the warp density is 100-110 yarns/cm.
And (3) a warp yarn treatment process: twisting → sizing → stripping and drawing → drafting → reeding, wherein the twisting process adopts an Italian/RPR twisting machine to twist, and the twist: 1200T/m, twist direction: s, twisting speed: 3800 + -3%, tension 5 + -2 g; shaping: setting temperature is 80 ℃, and setting time is 100 minutes; the step of strip warp lifting adopts an Italian/TAIANA strip warp lifting machine, the number of warp lifting swinging barrels is 560, the warp lifting amplitude is 187cm, the vehicle speed is 150 +/-5 m/min, the tension is 6 +/-2 CN, and the warp beam coiling hardness is 70+ 5; drafting procedure: 1-16 heald and smooth; a reed passing procedure: 6 yarns/tooth, reed width 186.5 cm.
The weft yarn treatment process sequentially comprises the following steps: spooling → twisting → shaping → rewinding, wherein the silk winding process adopts an Italian/COLLEONI silk winding machine, and the silk winding speed is 460 +/-50 rpm; the winding tension is 4 +/-2 g; twisting procedure adopts Italian/RPR twisting machine to twist, and the twist: 1800T/m, twist direction: s and Z, 2 pieces of S twisting direction and 2 pieces of Z twisting direction respectively, 4 pieces of weft yarn are circulated in total, and the twisting speed is as follows: 3700 plus or minus 3 percent and 5 plus or minus 2g of tension; the setting temperature of the setting process is 80 ℃, and the setting time is 100 minutes; the rewinding speed of the rewinding process is 450 +/-50 rpm, and the tension is 6-8 cN.
The fabric weaving process comprises the following steps: the rapier loom of R9000 is adopted, the speed is 300R/min, the upper tension is 20 +/-3 CN, and the height of a rear beam is + 1.
Fabric dyeing and finishing process: dyeing pretreatment → dyeing → soft padding and drying for shaping.
The dyeing pretreatment process is to pre-wash, refine and wash the grey cloth obtained in the fabric weaving process.
The dyeing process adopts a disperse medium temperature one-bath method for dyeing to dye the embryonic silk obtained by the dyeing pretreatment process, and comprises the following process steps: cloth feeding → disperse dye dyeing → liquid discharging → washing reduction → vat discharging, wherein the disperse dye dyeing adopts orange dye liquor.
The post-finishing process comprises the following steps: sewing → overflow desizing → dewatering → scutching → one-time super-softness → loose water washing → two-time super-softness → tentering and shaping → printing-finished product.
Example 3
A production process of fine denier acetate elastic double-faced fabric comprises the following process flows:
fabric weave design → warp and weft yarn treatment → fabric weaving → fabric dyeing and finishing → finished product inspection;
wherein the warp treatment process comprises the following steps: twisting → sizing → stripping and drawing → drafting → reeding;
the weft yarn treatment process comprises the following steps: spooling → twisting → shaping → rewinding;
fabric dyeing and finishing process: dyeing pretreatment → dyeing → soft padding and drying for shaping.
Wherein: in the fabric weave design procedure, the warp yarns adopt 45D/25F bright acetate yarns, the twist is 1200T/m, the weft yarns adopt 50D/24F bicomponent terylene SSY, the twist is 1800T/m, the weave is 4/4 double-sided weave (shown in figure 1), and the warp density is 100-110 yarns/cm.
And (3) a warp yarn treatment process: twisting → sizing → stripping and drawing → drafting → reeding, wherein the twisting process adopts an Italian/RPR twisting machine to twist, and the twist: 1200T/m, twist direction: s, twisting speed: 3800 + -3%, tension 5 + -2 g; shaping: setting temperature is 80 ℃, and setting time is 100 minutes; the step of strip warp lifting adopts an Italian/TAIANA strip warp lifting machine, the number of warp lifting swinging barrels is 560, the warp lifting amplitude is 187cm, the vehicle speed is 150 +/-5 m/min, the tension is 6 +/-2 CN, and the warp beam coiling hardness is 70+ 5; drafting procedure: 1-16 heald and smooth; a reed passing procedure: 6 yarns/tooth, reed width 186.5 cm.
The weft yarn treatment process sequentially comprises the following steps: spooling → twisting → shaping → rewinding, wherein the silk winding process adopts an Italian/COLLEONI silk winding machine, and the silk winding speed is 460 +/-50 rpm; the winding tension is 4 +/-2 g; twisting procedure adopts Italian/RPR twisting machine to twist, and the twist: 1800T/m, twist direction: s and Z, 2 pieces of S twisting direction and 2 pieces of Z twisting direction respectively, 4 pieces of weft yarn are circulated in total, and the twisting speed is as follows: 3700 plus or minus 3 percent and 5 plus or minus 2g of tension; the setting temperature of the setting process is 80 ℃, and the setting time is 100 minutes; the rewinding speed of the rewinding process is 450 +/-50 rpm, and the tension is 6-8 cN.
The fabric weaving process comprises the following steps: the rapier loom of R9000 is adopted, the speed is 300R/min, the upper tension is 20 +/-3 CN, and the height of a rear beam is + 1.
Fabric dyeing and finishing process: dyeing pretreatment → dyeing → soft padding and drying for shaping.
The dyeing pretreatment process is to pre-wash, refine and wash the grey cloth obtained in the fabric weaving process.
The dyeing process adopts a disperse medium temperature one-bath method for dyeing to dye the embryonic silk obtained by the dyeing pretreatment process, and comprises the following process steps: cloth feeding → disperse dye dyeing → liquid discharging → cleaning reduction → vat discharging, wherein the disperse dye dyeing adopts dark greenish black dye liquor.
The post-finishing process comprises the following steps: sewing → overflow desizing → dewatering → scutching → one-time super-softness → loose water washing → two-time super-softness → tentering and shaping → printing-finished product.
The final products obtained in the three examples were subjected to the following tests to obtain the properties of the products, which are shown in table 1.
A. Water fastness (grade): testing the test piece according to GB/T5713-2013;
B. fastness to perspiration (grade): testing the test piece according to GB/T3922-2013;
C. rub fastness (grade): the color fastness to dry rubbing (grade) and the color fastness to wet rubbing (grade) are included, the color fastness to dry rubbing (grade) is tested according to GB/T3920-2008, and the color fastness to wet rubbing (grade) is tested according to GB/T3920-2008;
D. degree of combing (grade) of soaping-resistant color: testing the test piece according to GB/T3921-2008A (1) at 40 ℃;
E. seam combing degree (cm): the test piece was subjected to a test in chapter 9.2.1 of GB/T21294-2014 (load: 80N, holding width: 2.5cm, 14-gauge needle 45tex polyester thread 50 needles/100 mm).
TABLE 1 comparison of the properties of the products of the three examples
The fine denier acetate yarn elastic double-sided fabric (the front and back surfaces of the fabric are respectively shown in figures 2 and 3) obtained by the production processes of the three embodiments can achieve the advantages of soft hand feeling, smooth glutinousness, good drapability, soft luster, high elasticity, strong double-sided satin feeling, fine silk surface, 108 warp density/cm and 95g/m gram weight2The elastic double-sided technical effect. The drape cracking degree of the fabric conforms to the national standard<GB/T21295->The corresponding technical requirements.
Finally, it should be noted that: although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that changes may be made in the embodiments and/or equivalents thereof without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Any modification, equivalent replacement, or improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. The production process of the fine denier acetate elastic double-faced fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
fabric weave design → warp and weft yarn treatment → fabric weaving → fabric dyeing and finishing → finished product inspection;
wherein the warp treatment process comprises the following steps: twisting → sizing → stripping and drawing → drafting → reeding;
the weft yarn treatment process comprises the following steps: spooling → twisting → shaping → rewinding;
fabric dyeing and finishing process: dyeing pretreatment → dyeing → soft padding and drying for shaping.
2. The process for producing the fine denier acetate fiber elastic double-sided fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein in the fabric weave design process, the warp yarns are fine denier diacetate fibers with a twist of 1200-1400T/m, and the weft yarns are bicomponent elastic terylene SSY high-stretch fibers with a twist of 1800-2000T/m.
3. The production process of the fine denier acetate stretch double-sided fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein in the fabric weave design process, the weave is 4/4 double-sided weave, and the warp density is 100-110 yarns/cm.
4. The production process of the fine denier acetate yarn elastic double-faced fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein in the warp yarn treatment process, an Italian/RPR yarn twisting machine is adopted for twisting, and the twist degree is as follows: 1200T/m, twist direction: s, twisting speed: 3800 + -3%, tension 5 + -2 g; shaping: setting temperature is 80 ℃, and setting time is 100 minutes; the step of strip warp lifting adopts an Italian/TAIANA strip warp lifting machine, the number of warp lifting swinging barrels is 560, the warp lifting amplitude is 187cm, the vehicle speed is 150 +/-5 m/min, the tension is 6 +/-2 CN, and the warp beam coiling hardness is 70+ 5; drafting procedure: 1-16 heald and smooth; a reed passing procedure: 6 yarns/tooth, reed width 186.5 cm.
5. The process for producing a fine denier acetate yarn elastic double faced fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein in the weft yarn processing flow, an Italian/COLLEONI winder is adopted in the winding process, and the winding speed is 460 plus or minus 50 rpm; the winding tension is 4 +/-2 g; twisting process adopts Italian/RPR twisting machine to twist, and the twist: 1800T/m, twist direction: s and Z, twist speed: 3700 plus or minus 3 percent and 5 plus or minus 2g of tension; the setting temperature of the setting process is 80 ℃, and the setting time is 100 minutes; the rewinding speed of the rewinding process is 450 +/-50 rpm, and the tension is 6-8 cN.
6. The production process of the fine denier acetate yarn elastic double-faced fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the fabric weaving process, an R9000 rapier loom is adopted, the speed is 300R/min, the upper tension is 20 +/-3 CN, and the back beam height is + 1.
7. The production process of the fine denier acetate yarn elastic double-sided fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein in the fabric dyeing and finishing process, the pre-dyeing process carries out pre-washing, refining and water washing on the grey fabric obtained in the fabric weaving process.
8. The production process of the fine denier acetate yarn elastic double-sided fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the fabric dyeing and finishing process, the dyeing process adopts a dispersed medium temperature one-bath method to dye the embryonic silk obtained by the dyeing pretreatment process, and the steps are as follows: cloth feeding → disperse dye dyeing → liquid discharging → cleaning and reducing → cylinder discharging.
9. The fine denier acetate yarn elastic double-sided fabric is produced by adopting the production process of the fine denier acetate yarn elastic double-sided fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8, and is characterized in that the warp yarns adopt fine denier diacetate yarns, and the weft yarns adopt bicomponent elastic polyester SSY high-elastic yarns.
10. The fine denier acetate stretch double faced fabric as claimed in claim 9, wherein the texture of the fine denier acetate stretch double faced fabric is 4/4 double faced texture, the warp direction density is 100 and 110 threads/cm, and the acetic acid content is above 55%.
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