CN114404330A - 一种防晒组合物及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种防晒组合物及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114404330A CN114404330A CN202111611474.6A CN202111611474A CN114404330A CN 114404330 A CN114404330 A CN 114404330A CN 202111611474 A CN202111611474 A CN 202111611474A CN 114404330 A CN114404330 A CN 114404330A
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种防晒组合物及其制备方法，属于化妆品技术领域。本发明的防晒组合物包括无机防晒剂，紫外线吸收剂，蓝光吸收剂，红光吸收剂和活性修复成分；所述无机防晒剂由二氧化钛粉体，氧化锌，氢氧化铝和硅石组成；所述二氧化钛占所述防晒组合物质量的2～15％；所述氧化锌占所述防晒组合物质量的1～7％，所述氢氧化铝占所述防晒组合物质量的0.1～2％；所述硅石占所述防晒组合物质量的0.1～5％。本发明的防晒组合物防晒性能佳，能够覆盖全光谱，对紫外线、红光和蓝光进行全面的防护；本发明的防晒组合物具有良好的贴肤性、流动性和清爽度，不会出现泛白现象、具有防水防汗性能。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种防晒组合物及其制备方法，属于化妆品技术领域。
背景技术
太阳辐射指到达地球表面的连续的电磁辐射，可分为红外光、可见光和紫外光。其中，紫外光分为短波紫外光(UVC)，波长为200nm～280nm，中波紫外光(UVB)，波长为280nm～320nm，以及长波紫外光(UVA)，波长为320nm～400nm。UVC会被臭氧层吸收，不能到达地面；而UVB和UVA，会穿透臭氧层到达地面，给人们的皮肤带来各种影响。UVB会引发皮肤红斑或水泡，俗称晒红或晒伤；UVA能到达皮肤真皮层，促进黑色素形成，促进胶原蛋白的降解，使皮肤弹性下降，俗称晒黑和晒老。在日化防晒产品中，用SFP值和PA值，分别表征防晒产品对UVB和UVA的防御作用。研究表明，太阳可见中普中的蓝光，也会对人体皮肤产生影响。蓝光中400nm～500nm部分，呈紫色和蓝定色，是蓝光中波长最短，能量最高的波段，称为高能蓝光。研究表明，蓝光的穿透能力较紫外线更强，对皮肤也能产生类似紫外线的损伤。
红外辐射分为IRA(760～1440nm),IRB(1440～3000nm)和IRC(3000nm～1mm)。到达人体皮肤大约54％的太阳能是IR辐射，而UV辐射仅占7％。根据不同的波段，红外光辐射能够穿透进入表皮，真皮和皮下组织，IRA约占总太阳光能量的30％，它能够穿透进入皮肤深层，造成一定的自由基产生和皮肤炎症反应。
因此，日常护理中，对抗紫外光的同时，关于对蓝光、红外光的防护也极为重要；同时应关注对于晒后修复，以此对光辐射进行全面防护，对皮肤进行保护。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种防晒组合物及其制备方法，该组合物能够很好地覆盖全光谱，对紫外线、蓝光、红外光进行防护。
为实现上述目的，本发明采取的技术方案为：
一种防晒组合物包括无机防晒剂，紫外线吸收剂，蓝光吸收剂，红光吸收剂和活性修复成分；所述无机防晒剂由二氧化钛粉体，氧化锌，氢氧化铝和硅石组成；所述二氧化钛占所述防晒组合物质量的2～15％；所述氧化锌占所述防晒组合物质量的1～7％，所述氢氧化铝占所述防晒组合物质量的0.1～2％；所述硅石占所述防晒组合物质量的0.1～5％。本发明的紫外线吸收剂、蓝光吸收剂和红光吸收剂通过协调增效作用，使该组合物具有更好的防晒性能。
作为本发明所述防晒组合物的优选实施方式，所述二氧化钛粉体的粒径为25～45nm，团聚粒径为120～180nm。对于二氧化钛粉体，原始粒径越小，就越透明，但粒径太小时催化活性会增强，导致体系中的复配化学防晒剂不稳定；原始粒径越大，透明度越差；团聚粒径约小，肤感越好。本发明选取的二氧化钛粉体颗粒的原始粒径为25～45nm，团聚粒径为120～180nm，二氧化钛可用氢氧化铝、硬脂酸、三乙氧基辛基硅烷进行表面处理，通过减少团聚而提高透明度和肤感，同时进一步抑制二氧化钛的光催化活性。
作为本发明所述防晒组合物的优选实施方式，所述紫外线吸收剂占所述防晒组合物质量的1～10％；所述紫外线吸收剂为甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯，4-甲基芐基樟脑，双-乙基己氧苯酚甲氧苯基三嗪，乙基己基三嗪酮，p-甲氧基肉桂酸异戊酯，奥克立林，亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚，二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯，水杨酸乙基己酯，甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯和苯基苯并咪唑磺酸中的至少一种。
作为本发明所述防晒组合物的优选实施方式，所述蓝光吸收剂占所述防晒组合物质量的1～6％；所述蓝光吸收剂为紫苜蓿提取物和聚繖岩蔷嶶中的至少一种。
作为本发明所述防晒组合物的优选实施方式，所述红光吸收剂占所述防晒组合物质量的1～6％；所述红光吸收剂为扁蓄提取物，茶叶提取物中的至少一种。
作为本发明所述防晒组合物的优选实施方式，所述修复活性成分占所述防晒组合物质量的1～10％；所述修复活性成分为大叶醉鱼草提取物，白桦树皮提取物，林生玄参提取物，欧前胡叶提取物，红叶金虎尾果提取物，卵磷脂，乙酰基六肽-1和生育酚乙基己酸酯中的至少一种。
作为本发明所述防晒组合物的优选实施方式，所述组合物还包括占所述防晒组合物质量25～32％的溶剂，所述溶剂为水。一般的防晒剂采用乙醇作为溶剂，使防晒剂更好的进入皮肤。本发明采用水为溶剂，避免了采用乙醇作为溶剂对皮肤产生刺激或引起皮肤过敏。
作为本发明所述防晒组合物的优选实施方式，还包括乳化剂、油脂、增稠剂、防腐剂、保湿剂、舒缓剂和防晒增效剂；所述乳化剂为聚甘油-10五硬脂酸酯，硬酯酰乳酸钠，失水山梨醇油酸酯，聚甘油-2二聚羟基硬脂酸酯，聚甘油-2三异硬脂酸酯和鲸蜡硬酯醇中的至少一种；所述油脂为聚二甲基硅氧烷，环五聚二甲基硅氧烷，环己硅氧烷，鲨肝醇，山嵛醇，三甲基硅烷氧基硅酸酯，聚甲基硅倍半氧烷，聚丙基硅倍半氧烷，苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷，碳酸二辛脂，异十二烷，异十六烷，新戊二醇二癸酸酯，异壬酸异壬酯，棕榈酸异丙酯和硬脂酸辛酯中的至少一种；所述增稠剂为微晶纤维素，黄原胶，小核菌胶，海藻糖胶和甲基硬酯酰基牛磺酸钠中的至少一种；所述防腐剂为苯氧乙醇，乙基己基甘油醇，对羟基苯乙酮，戊二醇和己二醇种的至少一种；所述保湿剂为甘油，丁二醇，丙二醇和山梨醇种的至少一种；所述舒缓剂为尿囊素，甘草酸二钾，红没药醇和假交替单胞菌发酵产物提取物中的至少一种；所述防晒增效剂为向日葵籽油，雨生红球藻提取物，脐形紫菜提取物，无毛水黄皮籽油，盐生杜氏藻提取物，富勒烯，酵母提取物，沙棘果油，狗牙蔷薇果提取物和乙基双亚氨基甲基愈创木酚锰氯化物中的至少一种。
作为本发明所述防晒组合物的优选实施方式，所述防晒组合物包括0.1～10％乳化剂、0.1～15％油脂、1～5％增稠剂、1～10％防腐剂、0.1～10％保湿剂、1～10％舒缓剂、1～8％防晒增效剂。在此条件下，该组合物具有良好的防晒性能、贴肤性、清爽度和流动性。
本发明还提供一种防晒组合物的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将紫外吸收剂加热至70℃，加入乳化剂混合均匀加热至80℃，再加入油脂搅拌至分散均匀，得混合物A；
(2)增稠剂、保湿剂和溶剂混合均匀，加热至80℃，得混合物B；
(3)将混合物A、混合物B、无机防晒剂混合均质10min，再降温至45℃，加入蓝光吸收剂、红光吸收剂、防腐剂、舒缓抗敏成分和防晒增效剂，搅拌均匀，得所述防晒组合物。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果为：
(1)本发明的防晒组合物防晒性能佳，能够覆盖全光谱，对紫外线、红光和蓝光进行全面的防护；
(2)本发明的防晒组合物具有良好的贴肤性、清爽度和流动性，不会出现泛白现象；
(3)本发明的防晒组合物具有防水防汗性能。
具体实施方式
为更好地说明本发明的目的、技术方案和优点，下面将结合具体实施例对本发明作进一步说明。
实施例1～11、对比例1～5
实施例1～11、对比例1～3的防晒组合物，其成分及含量如表1所示。
实施例1～11、对比例1～3的防晒组合物中的二氧化钛粉体的原始粒径为35nm。
对比例4与实施例3的区别仅在于所用的二氧化钛粉体的原始粒径不同，对比例4中的二氧化钛粉体的粒径为25nm。
对比例5与实施例3的区别仅在于所用的二氧化钛粉体的原始粒径不同，对比例5中的二氧化钛粉体的粒径为45nm。
表1实施例1～11、对比例1～3的防晒组合物中各成分的质量百分比/％
实施例1～11、对比例1～5的防晒组合物的制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)将紫外吸收剂加入到预混罐中，加热至70℃，再加入乳化剂混合均匀加热至80℃，再加入油脂搅拌至分散均匀，得混合物A；
(2)将增稠剂、保湿剂和溶剂混合均匀，加热至80℃，得混合物B；
(3)将混合物A、混合物B、无机防晒剂混合均质10min，再降温至45℃，加入蓝光吸收剂、红光吸收剂、防腐剂、舒缓抗敏成分和防晒增效剂，搅拌均匀，得所述防晒组合物。
效果例
1、防晒组合物对皮肤细胞活性氧的抑制作用
本效果例对实施例1-11、对比例1-3的防晒组合物对皮肤细胞活性氧的抑制作用进行检测。
检测方法：选取健康的小鼠140只，随机分为14组，每组10只。脱去小鼠背部的毛，面积约为2×2cm，将实施例1-11和对比例1-5的防晒组合物分别涂抹在上述10组小鼠裸露的皮肤表面，将小鼠置于蓝光灯、紫外光灯和红外线照射20min，并用CellROX荧光强度染色进行检测分析，细胞活性氧数值越大表示受试样品的抗紫光光、抗蓝光和红光的性能越差，分别在处理后第7、14、30天观察小鼠皮肤细胞活性氧的变化情况，结果如表2所示。
表2
由表2可知，实施例1～3、实施例6～7的细胞活性氧水平可知，随着防晒组合物中紫外线吸收剂的添加量的增加，细胞活性氧数值越小，但紫外线吸收剂的添加量超过7.5％时，细胞活性氧数值减小不明显，皮肤细胞活性氧的抑制作用趋于饱和；由实施例1～3、实施例8～9的细胞活性氧水平可知，随着防晒组合物中蓝光吸收剂的添加量的增加，细胞活性氧数值越小，但紫外线吸收剂的添加量超过3.5％时，细胞活性氧数值减小不明显，皮肤细胞活性氧的抑制作用趋于饱和；由实施例1～3、实施例10～11的细胞活性氧水平可知，随着防晒组合物中红光吸收剂的添加量的增加，细胞活性氧数值越小，但紫外线吸收剂的添加量超过3.5％时，细胞活性氧数值减小不明显，皮肤细胞活性氧的抑制作用趋于饱和。由实施例3和对比例1～3的细胞活性氧水平可知，本发明的紫外线吸收剂、蓝光吸收剂和红光吸收剂之间具有协同增效作用，能显著提高皮肤细胞活性氧的抑制作用。
2、防晒组合物对皮肤的防晒效果
测试方法：选取140名30-65岁面部有真性眼袋的女性作为试用对象，分成14组，每组10人，分别使用实施例1～11、对比例1～3制备的防晒组合物进行日常防晒。测试前测试人员洗净面部后在恒温恒湿环境(温度21-23℃，湿度55-65％)待30min后，利用VISIA-CR进行面部拍照作为初次皮肤情况(晒斑、皱纹)数据，受试者将各试样涂布于面部，每天使用1次，连续试用60天，并在第30天、第60天时洗净面部后用VISIA-CR进行皮肤情况测试，分别记作D30和D60。需要说明的是每组D30和D60值均为该组这些数值的平均值，经仪器软件计算出使用皮肤情况，评分越低表示晒斑、皱纹越多，皮肤状况越差。检测结果如表3所示。
表3
3、防晒组合物的肤感测试
测试方法：选取130名30-65岁面部有真性眼袋的女性作为试用对象，分成13组，每组10人，分别使用实施例1～11、对比例4～5制备的防晒组合物进行日常防晒涂抹于面部皮肤。以打分的方式对实施例1～11、对比例1～5的防晒组合物的贴肤性、流动性、清爽度、泛白程度进行评价(0～10分，分数越高，相应的性质越好，肤感越好)。评分结果如表4所示。
表4
由表4可知，本发明的防晒组合物具有较好的肤感。由实施例3与实施例4～5的防晒组合物的评分可知，无机防晒剂中的氢氧化铝对防晒组合物的贴肤性和延展性有很大的影响，当氢氧化铝的添加量为1.5％时，其能通过减少二氧化钛粉体的团聚而使防晒组合物的肤感最佳；由实施例3和对比例4和5可知，二氧化钛粉体的原始粒径对防晒组合物的肤感有很大的影响，当二氧化钛粉体的粒径过小时，催化活性增强，使防晒组合物不稳定，当二氧化钛粉体的粒径过大时，使防晒组合物容易泛白。
最后所应当说明的是，以上实施例仅用以说明本发明的技术方案而非对本发明保护范围的限制，尽管参照较佳实施例对本发明作了详细说明，本领域的普通技术人员应当理解，可以对本发明的技术方案进行修改或者等同替换，而不脱离本发明技术方案的实质和范围。
Claims (10)
1.一种防晒组合物，其特征在于，所述组合物包括无机防晒剂，紫外线吸收剂，蓝光吸收剂，红光吸收剂和活性修复成分；所述无机防晒剂由二氧化钛粉体，氧化锌，氢氧化铝和硅石组成；所述二氧化钛占所述防晒组合物质量的2～15％；所述氧化锌占所述防晒组合物质量的1～7％，所述氢氧化铝占所述防晒组合物质量的0.1～2％；所述硅石占所述防晒组合物质量的0.1～5％。
2.根据权利要求1所述防晒组合物，其特征在于，所述二氧化钛粉体的粒径为25～45nm，团聚粒径为120～180nm。
3.根据权利要求1所述防晒组合物，其特征在于，所述紫外线吸收剂占所述防晒组合物质量的1～10％；所述紫外线吸收剂为甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯，4-甲基芐基樟脑，双-乙基己氧苯酚甲氧苯基三嗪，乙基己基三嗪酮，p-甲氧基肉桂酸异戊酯，奥克立林，亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚，二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯，水杨酸乙基己酯，甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯和苯基苯并咪唑磺酸中的至少一种。
4.根据权利要求1所述防晒组合物，其特征在于，所述蓝光吸收剂占所述防晒组合物质量的1～6％；所述蓝光吸收剂为紫苜蓿提取物和聚繖岩蔷嶶中的至少一种。
5.根据权利要求1所述防晒组合物，其特征在于，所述红光吸收剂占所述组合物质量的1～6％；所述红光吸收剂为扁蓄提取物，茶叶提取物中的至少一种。
6.根据权利要求1所述防晒组合物，其特征在于，所述修复活性成分占所述防晒组合物质量的1～10％；所述修复活性成分为大叶醉鱼草提取物，白桦树皮提取物，林生玄参提取物，欧前胡叶提取物，红叶金虎尾果提取物，卵磷脂，乙酰基六肽-1和生育酚乙基己酸酯中的至少一种。
7.根据权利要求1所述防晒组合物，其特征在于，所述组合物还包括占所述防晒组合物质量25～32％的溶剂，所述溶剂为水。
8.根据权利要求1所述防晒组合物，其特征在于，还包括乳化剂、油脂、增稠剂、防腐剂、保湿剂、舒缓剂和防晒增效剂；所述乳化剂为聚甘油-10五硬脂酸酯，硬酯酰乳酸钠，失水山梨醇油酸酯，聚甘油-2二聚羟基硬脂酸酯，聚甘油-2三异硬脂酸酯和鲸蜡硬酯醇中的至少一种；所述油脂为聚二甲基硅氧烷，环五聚二甲基硅氧烷，环己硅氧烷，鲨肝醇，山嵛醇，三甲基硅烷氧基硅酸酯，聚甲基硅倍半氧烷，聚丙基硅倍半氧烷，苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷，碳酸二辛脂，异十二烷，异十六烷，新戊二醇二癸酸酯，异壬酸异壬酯，棕榈酸异丙酯和硬脂酸辛酯中的至少一种；所述增稠剂为微晶纤维素，黄原胶，小核菌胶，海藻糖胶和甲基硬酯酰基牛磺酸钠中的至少一种；所述防腐剂为苯氧乙醇，乙基己基甘油醇，对羟基苯乙酮，戊二醇和己二醇种的至少一种；所述保湿剂为甘油，丁二醇，丙二醇和山梨醇种的至少一种；所述舒缓剂为尿囊素，甘草酸二钾，红没药醇和假交替单胞菌发酵产物提取物中的至少一种；所述防晒增效剂为向日葵籽油，雨生红球藻提取物，脐形紫菜提取物，无毛水黄皮籽油，盐生杜氏藻提取物，富勒烯，酵母提取物，沙棘果油，狗牙蔷薇果提取物和乙基双亚氨基甲基愈创木酚锰氯化物中的至少一种。
9.根据权利要求8所述防晒组合物，其特征在于，按质量百分比计，所述防晒组合物包括0.1～10％乳化剂、0.1～15％油脂、1～5％增稠剂、1～10％防腐剂、0.1～10％保湿剂、1～10％舒缓剂、1～8％防晒增效剂。
10.一种根据权利要求1～9中任一项所述的防晒组合物的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
(1)将紫外吸收剂加热至70℃，加入乳化剂混合均匀加热至80℃，再加入油脂搅拌至分散均匀，得混合物A；
(2)增稠剂、保湿剂和溶剂混合均匀，加热至80℃，得混合物B；
(3)将混合物A、混合物B、无机防晒剂混合均质10min，再降温至45℃，加入蓝光吸收剂、红光吸收剂、防腐剂、舒缓抗敏成分和防晒增效剂，搅拌均匀，得所述防晒组合物。
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| CN116983231A (zh) * | 2023-08-21 | 2023-11-03 | 广州君奕科技有限公司 | 一种生物型防晒、修护屏障添加剂组合物、制备方法、应用和防晒数值的测试方法 |
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