CN113882063A - Method for making full-wool short and smooth fabric by using combed short wool - Google Patents
Method for making full-wool short and smooth fabric by using combed short wool Download PDFInfo
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- CN113882063A CN113882063A CN202111252455.9A CN202111252455A CN113882063A CN 113882063 A CN113882063 A CN 113882063A CN 202111252455 A CN202111252455 A CN 202111252455A CN 113882063 A CN113882063 A CN 113882063A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/04—Carbonising or oxidising
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
- D06M11/55—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with sulfur trioxide; with sulfuric acid or thiosulfuric acid or their salts
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
- D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
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- Y02P70/50—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
- Y02P70/62—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear
Abstract
The invention discloses a production process for producing full-wool short and smooth fabric by using combed short wool. Preparing the combed short hair, the cleaned hair and the auxiliary fiber into combed short hair yarns through weeding, wool mixing, carding, drawing, air spinning, plying and yarn steaming, and then passing the combed short hair yarns through: weaving design and weaving: weaving with single-side or double-side weave of 2/1, 2/2 and 1/3, weaving with combed staple wool yarn as warp and weft to obtain grey cloth; carbonizing gray fabric: immersing the grey cloth in sulfuric acid, taking out the grey cloth, and baking and carbonizing the grey cloth to obtain a wool fabric blank; dyeing and finishing: the wool fabric blank is sequentially processed: and (3) performing neutralization washing, fulling, air flow washing, piece dyeing, wet fluffing, needling, wet brushing, softening, drying, ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming and preshrinking to prepare the full-wool short and smooth fabric. The invention changes the short combing wool into valuable, and the full-wool short and smooth fabric can save the raw material cost and the spinning cost by more than 30 percent, thereby having considerable economic benefit.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of all-wool fabric production, in particular to a method for making all-wool short smooth fabric by using combed short wool.
Background
The all-wool fabric in the market at present is produced by normal wool, the price of the wool always shows a continuous rising trend due to limited wool resources, the production cost of the conventional production process is high, and the price of the high-grade all-wool fabric exceeds the consumption capability of common consumers. The combed short wool is short wool combed from a combing machine in the wool top manufacturing process, is leftovers produced in the wool top manufacturing process, is short in length, has an average length of about 16 mm, and contains a lot of defects such as grass thorns, impurities, wool particles and the like. China slivering enterprises generate a large amount of combing short wool every year, most of the combing short wool can only be used for making felts or flocculus with low added value, and the resource value is not effectively developed. The reason for this is that the conventional spinning method is difficult to spin yarns because the combed short-staple fibers are short and have much weed and poor spinnability, and even if the yarns are spun, the yarns cannot be normally woven because the combed short-staple fibers in the yarns are too short and the broken ends of the woven fabrics are heavy. In addition, weeds in the combed short hair not only affect normal spinning, but also seriously affect product quality, if the combed short hair fiber is carbonized, the fiber can be further damaged, and the carbonized combed short hair felt is shrunk into small balls, so that the spinning difficulty is further increased, therefore, the combed short hair is difficult to be used for full-hair fabrics with high added value, and a feasible production process for using high-proportion combed short hair as the full-hair fabrics is always lacked.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the prior art, the invention aims to provide a spinning fabric and an after-finishing process for producing full-wool fabric by high-proportion combed short wool.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
in a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a combed spun yarn comprising the following raw materials:
the blended short wool spinning process comprises the following steps of combing short wool, washing wool and auxiliary fiber, wherein the mass ratio of the combing short wool to the washing wool is (55-75): (25-45), wherein the using amount of the auxiliary fiber accounts for 5-15% of the total weight of the short combed wool and the clean wool;
preferably, the fineness of the combed short hair is 18.5 +/-2 microns, and the fineness of the clean hair is 19-22 microns; the auxiliary fiber is selected from viscose fiber, cotton fiber, modal, tencel or bamboo fiber, and the specification of the auxiliary fiber is 1.5D 38 mm. The combed short hair is non-carbonized combed short hair.
Preferably, the combed staple yarn is prepared by the following method:
weeding-wool-carding-drawing-air spinning-plying-steaming yarn;
mixing combed short wool and cleaned wool for 2 times, adding 0.5 wt% of wool mixing oil for 2 times, suffocating wool for 8 hours, and mixing with auxiliary fiber.
Preferably, the post-blending moisture regain is controlled to be 16% +/-2%;
the weight of the sliver produced after carding is 4 g/m;
drawing for 3 times, wherein the weight of the drawn yarn is 4 g/m;
the yarn count obtained by air spinning is 12.7-14.5 cm, the Z twisting direction is, and the twist is 580 twists/m;
the number of the plied yarns is 12.7/2-14.5/2 metric counts, the S twist direction and the twist degree are 360 twists/m;
the temperature of the yarn steaming is 90 plus or minus 5 ℃, and the heat preservation time is 50 plus or minus 5 min.
In a second aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of making a all-wool fluff plus material using combed fluff yarns, comprising the steps of:
(1) weaving design and weaving: weaving with single-side or double-side weave of 2/1, 2/2 and 1/3, weaving with combed staple wool yarn as warp and weft to obtain grey cloth;
(2) carbonizing gray fabric: immersing the grey cloth obtained in the step (1) in sulfuric acid, taking out the grey cloth, and baking and carbonizing the grey cloth to obtain a wool cloth blank;
(3) dyeing and finishing: sequentially carrying out the wool fabric blank obtained in the step (2): and (3) performing neutralization washing, fulling, air flow washing, piece dyeing, wet fluffing, needling, wet brushing, softening, drying, ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming and preshrinking to prepare the full-wool short and smooth fabric.
Preferably, in the step (1), 0.1 wt% of liquid wax and 0.1 wt% of antistatic agent are added to the warp yarn during warping; the filling rate on the weaving machine is 80%.
Preferably, in the step (2), the concentration of the sulfuric acid is 4-5 wt%; after the grey cloth is taken out, extruding the grey cloth to enable the content of sulfuric acid in the grey cloth to be 50-60% of the mass of the grey cloth; the temperature of the baking carbonization is 120 +/-5 ℃.
Preferably, the yarn count of the combed short wool yarns in the carbonized woolen blank is 14/2-16/2 metric counts.
Preferably, in step (3), the neutralization wash uses Na2CO3, and the pH of the neutralized woolen body is 6.5 ± 0.5.
Preferably, the woolen cloth blank is sewn into a cylinder and then is subjected to fulling, the pressure of the fulling is 0.2kg, the necking is 12cm, the fulling time is 60 minutes/50 meters, the temperature is 40 +/-2 ℃, and the width is 152 cm;
preferably, the speed of the air current washing is 1000m/min, and the time is 25-35 min.
Preferably, in the step (3), the wet raising is carried out by raising the wet woolen blank with steel wires, and the raising speed is 8 +/-2 m/min; the forward needle roller speed is 30-35 r/min, and the reverse needle roller speed is 29-34 r/min;
preferably, the cloth speed of the needling is 8 +/-2 m/min, and the needling is carried out for 11 times;
preferably, the wet brush is formed by rolling and shaping the wet brush, the steel brush and the brown brush are all used, and the shaping time is 24 hours;
preferably, the softening needs to add 3 wt% of a softening agent;
preferably, the drying temperature is 115 +/-5 ℃;
preferably, the temperature of the hot polishing is 220 +/-2 ℃;
preferably, the length of the shearing is 2 mm.
Preferably, in the step (3), the cloth speed of the continuous steaming is 10 +/-2 m/min;
preferably, the pressure in the tank for steaming is 1.5kg, the steaming time is 3min, the tension of wrapping cloth is 150 +/-20 kg, the pressure of a pressure rod is 50 +/-10 kg, and the temperature in the tank is 120 +/-10 ℃;
preferably, the pre-shrinking vehicle speed is 10m/min, the steam pressure is 4kg or more, the temperature of the hot air shaping box is 105-.
In a third aspect of the invention, the all-wool short smooth fabric prepared by the method is provided.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
the invention overcomes the problems of much weed and short fiber of the waste combed short wool, solves the problems that the high-proportion combed short wool can not be normally spun, can not be normally woven and can not be made into the full-wool short smooth fabric, and the waste combed short wool is made into the high-grade full-wool short smooth wool fabric with full and elastic handfeel, smooth suede, soft luster and stable size, thereby saving wool resources, reducing production cost and having considerable economic and social benefits.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a process flow diagram of the present invention.
Detailed Description
It should be noted that the following detailed description is exemplary and is intended to provide further explanation of the disclosure. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this application belongs.
As introduced in the background technology section, in order to solve the problems of more weeds in the combed short hair, short fiber, incapability of normal spinning and incapability of normal weaving, the full-hair short and smooth woolen fabric with full hand feeling, elasticity, smooth suede, soft luster and stable size is prepared. Based on the method, the invention provides a production process for producing full-wool short and smooth fabric by combing short wool.
Firstly, the invention provides a technological method for spinning combed short wool, which comprises the steps of using 65% +/-10% of combed short wool, 35% +/-10% of clean wool (normal wool) and adding 10% +/-5% of carbonizable auxiliary fiber. Weeding is carried out firstly, heavy dust and big grass in the combed short hair are removed, but part of short weeds in the combed short hair are still remained and cannot be removed, and the part of weeds are woven into the combed short hair yarn along with the combed short hair and then woven into the grey cloth again. The combed short hair after weeding is blended with the clean hair and the auxiliary fiber sequentially through wool blending, and then the combed short hair yarn is obtained through carding, drawing, air spinning, plying and yarn steaming in sequence, wherein the yarn count of the yarn is 12.7/2-14.5/2 metric counts.
Secondly, the invention provides a method for preparing full-wool short and smooth fabric by using the combed short wool yarns. The combed short-hair yarns are firstly woven into grey cloth, then the weeds and the auxiliary fibers in the grey cloth are carbonized through grey cloth carbonization, at the moment, the combed short-hair yarns become thin, the yarn count is 14/2-16/2 metric counts, and according to the design of the filling rate of the loom, the thin yarns do not affect the overall performance and the attractiveness of the fabric. The weeds and the auxiliary fibers are carbonized into ash and are mixed in the carbonized wool fabric blank. Then completely removing carbonized ash in the wool fabric blank through milling and air washing; when the woolen cloth is felted, part of ash is removed by continuously extruding the woolen cloth blank. The ash which is not removed is washed by air flow in the dyeing and finishing process, the wool blank continuously impacts a baffle plate, the residual carbonized ash in the wool blank is removed from the wool blank by quick impact and cleaning, and simultaneously, the condensing agent used in the previous process is removed. Because the proportion of the combed short wool in the yarn is large, the combed short wool is easy to break during spinning, and the fiber with high strength and high toughness is added, so that the combed short wool is favorable for spinning the yarn. The invention selects cotton, regenerated cellulose fiber viscose, modal and other fibers, and the strength of the cotton, the regenerated cellulose fiber viscose, the modal and the like can assist short combed wool to spin yarns under the adding amount of the invention, and the short combed wool can be carbonized into yarns in the later period by sulfuric acid solution, while the wool belongs to animal fibers, is acid-resistant and cannot be carbonized in the sulfuric acid solution, and the auxiliary fibers are removed by carbonization. And finally, performing dyeing and finishing processes of neutralization washing, fulling, air current washing, piece dyeing, wet fluffing, needling, wet brushing, softening, drying, ironing and polishing, shearing, continuous steaming, tank steaming and preshrinking in sequence to enable the woolen blank to be finished into the all-wool short and smooth fabric which has no normal wool preparation performance such as hand feeling and luster.
In order to make the technical solutions of the present application more clearly understood by those skilled in the art, the technical solutions of the present application will be described in detail below with reference to specific embodiments.
The test materials used in the examples of the present invention are all conventional in the art and commercially available.
Description of the drawings: the air current washing adopts a multifunctional fulling and softening finishing machine (CM101-350 type), which is self-made by Shandong Kangping group Limited and is applied for patent with application number of 201010140295.4.
Example 1
S01, selecting raw materials: 70 wt% of 18.5 μm non-carbonized short combed wool, 30 wt% of 21 μm scoured wool, and additionally viscose with a specification of 1.5D 38mm, which viscose accounts for 10 wt% of the total weight of the short combed wool and the scoured wool.
S02, spinning:
weeding: the heavy dust and the big grass in the short combing hair are removed by the action of the weeding machine.
Blending: the combed short wool and the sheep cashmere are mixed for 2 times, 0.5 wt% of wool oil and 0.5 wt% of a binding agent are added in the 2 nd time, wool is closed in a wool mixing bin for 8 hours, the wool and the viscose fiber which are mixed for 2 times are uniformly mixed for 1 time and packaged, and the moisture regain of the wool is controlled to be 16%.
Carding: the temperature of a workshop is 26 ℃, the humidity is 75%, the rotating speed of a comb cylinder is 320 r/min, the rotating speed of a licker-in is 17 r/min, the rotating speed of a licker-in is 1000 doffers, and the distance (mm) between 5 points of a cylinder cover plate is as follows: 0.33, 0.3, 0.28 and 0.3, and the weight of the strip is 4 g/m.
Drawing: the drawing frame with the auto-leveling function is used for drawing 3 times, and the weight of the drawn yarn is 4 g/m.
Airflow spinning: the temperature and the humidity of a workshop are 26 ℃ and 65 percent; the diameter of the rotor is 50 mm/r, the speed of the rotor is 3900 r/min, the speed of the carding roller is 8000 r/min, the impurity discharging holes of the rotor are enlarged, the number of spinning yarns is 12.7 cm, the Z twist direction is, and the twist is 580 twist/m.
Stranding: after doubling by a doubling frame, twisting by a two-for-one twister, wherein the number of the plied yarns is 12.7/2 cm, the S twisting direction and the twisting degree are 360 twists per meter.
Steaming yarn: steaming at 90 deg.C for 50 min; and then cooling and discharging.
S03, weaving design and weaving: the weaving weave is a single-face weave of 2/1, the warp and weft are spun yarns prepared from S02 with 12.7/2 of metric count, 0.1 wt% of liquid wax and 0.1 wt% of antistatic agent are added during warp yarn through an auxiliary agent groove of a warping machine during warping, and the static electricity and hairiness adhesion of the yarns are reduced. The filling rate on the weaving machine is 80 percent.
S04, gray fabric carbonization: immersing the grey cloth into sulfuric acid with the concentration of 5 wt% to enable the grey cloth to be fully soaked with the sulfuric acid, taking out the grey cloth and then pressing the grey cloth by using a roller to enable the liquid content of the sulfuric acid in the grey cloth to be 55 wt%; the roller pressure was 6 kg. And drying and baking the grey cloth at 120 ℃. After carbonization, the yarn count in the gray fabric was 14/2 counts.
S05, dyeing and finishing: neutralizing and washing, milling, air current washing, piece dyeing, wet fluffing, thorn pulling, wet brushing, softening, drying, ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming, pre-shrinking and finishing.
Neutralization and washing: using Na2CO3And neutralizing sulfuric acid in the carbonized gray fabric, wherein the pH value is 6.5 after neutralization.
And (3) wool milling: and (3) sewing the wool fabric blank into a cylinder, then rolling the wool fabric, wherein the rolling pressure is 0.2kg, the rolling opening is 12cm, the concentration of the rolling agent is 10 wt%, the wool fabric is slowly rolled under light pressure, the rolling time is 60 minutes/50 meters, the temperature is 38 ℃, the width after rolling is 152cm, the bottom wool is full, and the carbon breaking effect is realized on carbonized ash.
Air current washing: the vehicle speed is 1000m/min, the baffle falls and the impact is 30 min. Cleaning and removing the shrinking agent and the carbonized ash.
Piece dyeing: pre-washing the fabric in a dye vat again before dyeing to ensure that the grey fabric meets the requirement of pH value 6.5, and then dyeing.
Fluffing: in order to reduce the fluffing loss, wet wool fabric blank steel wires are adopted for fluffing, and the cloth fluffing speed is 8 m/min; the forward needle roller speed is 33 r/min, the reverse needle roller speed is 30 r/min, and the fuzzing is carried out for 8 times.
Puncturing and pulling: the cloth speed of the bur napping machine is 8m/min, and the bur is pulled for 11 times.
Wet brushing: the wet brush is coiled and shaped, the steel brush and the palm brush are all used, and the shaping time is 24 hours.
Softening: the solution of the water mangle is a softening agent with the concentration of 3 weight percent, the pressure is 6Kg, and the cloth speed is 8m/min.
Drying: the speed is 12m/min, the overfeed is 15%, the temperature is 115 ℃, and the width of the taxi is 155 cm.
Ironing: the ironing temperature is 220 ℃, and the cloth speed is 10m/min.
Shearing: the cloth speed is 8m/min, the shearing is carried out for 3 times, the cutter is gradually dropped, and the shearing length is 2 mm.
Continuous steaming: the cloth speed is 10m/min, the steam is 100 percent, and the brake is 90 percent.
Steaming in a pot: the pressure in the steaming tank is 1.5kg, the steaming time in the steaming tank is 3min, the tension of the wrapping cloth is 150kg, the pressure of the pressure rod is 50kg, and the temperature in the steaming tank is 120 ℃.
Pre-shrinking: the vehicle speed is 10m/min, the steam pressure is more than 4kg, the temperature of the hot air shaping box is 105 ℃, the width is 150cm, and the overfeeding is 3%.
Example 2
S01, selecting raw materials: 19.5 μm non-carbonized combed fluff 65%, 19.5 μm sheep wool 35%, plus modal fibres of specification 1.5D 38mm, the modal fibres representing 10 wt% of the total weight of the combed fluff and the scoured wool.
S02, spinning:
blending: the combed short wool and the sheep cashmere are mixed for 2 times, 0.5 wt% of wool oil and 0.5 wt% of a binding agent are added in the 2 nd time, wool is closed in a wool mixing bin for 8 hours, the wool and the viscose fiber which are mixed for 2 times are uniformly mixed for 1 time and packaged, and the moisture regain of the wool is controlled to be 15%.
Carding: the temperature of a workshop is 28 ℃, the humidity is 70%, the rotating speed of a comb cylinder is 320 r/min, the rotating speed of a licker-in is 17 r/min, the rotating speed of a licker-in is 1000 doffers, and the distance (mm) between 5 points of a cylinder cover plate is as follows: 0.33, 0.3, 0.28 and 0.3, and the weight of the strip is 4 g/m.
Drawing: the drawing frame with the auto-leveling function is used for drawing 3 times, and the weight of the drawn yarn is 4 g/m.
Airflow spinning: the temperature of a workshop is 24 ℃, the humidity is 60%, the diameter of a rotor is 50 mm/r, the speed of the rotor is 3900 r/min, the carding roller is 8000 r/min, the large rotor impurity removing hole is enlarged and adjusted, the number of spinning solid spinning counts is 14.5 cm, the Z twisting direction is, and the twist is 720 twist/m.
Stranding: after doubling by a doubling frame, twisting by a two-for-one twister, wherein the number of the plied yarns is 14.5/2 cm, the S twisting direction is, and the twist degree is 420 twists/m.
Steaming yarn: the yarn steaming temperature is 95 ℃, and the heat preservation time is 45 min; and then cooling and discharging.
S03, weaving design and weaving: 2/2 single face tissue, 14.5/2 metric count for both warp and weft, air-jet spinning, and warping with auxiliary tank of warping machine while adding 0.1 wt% liquid wax and 0.1 wt% antistatic agent to reduce yarn static and hair adhesion. The filling rate on the weaving machine is 80 percent.
S04, gray fabric carbonization: immersing the grey cloth into sulfuric acid with the concentration of 4 wt% to enable the grey cloth to be fully soaked with the sulfuric acid, taking out the grey cloth and then pressing the grey cloth by using a roller to enable the liquid content of the sulfuric acid in the grey cloth to be 55 wt%; the roller pressure was 6 kg. And drying and baking the grey cloth at 125 ℃. After carbonization, the yarn count in the gray fabric was 16/2 counts.
S05, dyeing and finishing: neutralizing and washing, milling, air current washing, piece dyeing, wet fluffing, thorn pulling, wet brushing, softening, drying, ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming, pre-shrinking and finishing.
Neutralization and washing: using Na2CO3And neutralizing sulfuric acid in the carbonized gray fabric, and after neutralization, the pH value is 7.0.
And (3) wool milling: and (3) sewing the wool fabric blank into a cylinder, then shrinking the wool fabric under the condition that the pressure of the wool fabric is 0.2kg, the necking is 12cm, the concentration of a shrinking agent is 10%, slowly compressing the wool fabric under light pressure, wherein the shrinking time is 60 minutes/50 meters, the temperature is 42 ℃, the width after shrinking is 152cm, the bottom wool is full, and the carbon breaking effect on carbonized ash is realized.
Air current washing: the vehicle speed is 1000m/min, the baffle falls and the impact is 30 min. Cleaning and removing the shrinking agent and the carbonized ash.
Piece dyeing: pre-washing the fabric in a dye vat again before dyeing to ensure that the grey fabric meets the requirement of pH value 7.0, and then dyeing.
Fluffing: in order to reduce the fluffing loss, wet wool fabric blank steel wires are adopted for fluffing, and the cloth fluffing speed is 10 m/min; the forward needle roller speed is 35 r/min, the reverse needle roller speed is 34 r/min, and the fuzzing is carried out for 8 times.
Puncturing and pulling: the cloth speed of the bur napping machine is 10m/min, and the bur is pulled for 11 times.
Wet brushing: the wet brush is coiled and shaped, the steel brush and the palm brush are all used, and the shaping time is 24 hours.
Softening: the solution of the water mangle is a softening agent with the concentration of 3 weight percent, and the pressure is 6 Kg; the cloth speed is 10m/min.
Drying: the speed is 12m/min, the overfeed is 15%, the temperature is 110 ℃, and the width of the taxi is 155 cm.
Ironing: the ironing temperature is 225 ℃, and the cloth speed is 12 m/min.
Shearing: the cloth speed is 8m/min, the shearing is carried out for 3 times, the cutter is gradually dropped, and the shearing length is 2 mm.
Continuous steaming: the cloth speed is 8m/min, the steam is 100 percent, and the brake is 90 percent.
Steaming in a pot: the pressure in the steaming tank is 1.5kg, the steaming time in the steaming tank is 3min, the tension of the wrapping cloth is 140kg, the pressure of the pressure rod is 60kg, and the temperature in the steaming tank is 125 ℃.
Pre-shrinking: the vehicle speed is 10m/min, the steam pressure is more than 4.2kg, the temperature of the hot air shaping box is 110 ℃, the breadth is 150cm, and the overfeeding is 3%.
Comparative example
S01, selecting raw materials: the normal raw material collocation of the normal full-wool short-smooth fabric is 50% of 18.5 mu m carbonized loose wool and 50% of 21 mu m short wool top.
S02, roving spinning:
blending: mixing 3 times, 3 wt% of wool oil, and sealing wool in a wool mixing bin for 8 hours, wherein the moisture regain of the wool after blending is controlled to be 28%.
Carding: the normal carding equipment is a triple roving card, carding into 0.075 g/m roving.
Spinning: the ring spinning frame has spinning number of 14 cm, Z twisting direction and twist number of 450 twist/m.
Stranding: after doubling, the yarn was twisted by a two-for-one twister with a yarn count of 14/2 cm, S twist direction and a twist of 240 twists/m.
Steaming yarn: steaming at 90 deg.C for 50 min; and then cooling and discharging.
S03, weaving design and weaving: the weave structure is 2/1 single-face weave structure. The warp and weft all adopt the spun yarn with the count of 14/2, and the filling rate on the weaving machine is 75 percent.
S04, dyeing and finishing: the production process comprises the steps of initial washing, fulling, air washing, piece dyeing, drying, fluffing, softening, pricking, wet brushing, drying, ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming, pre-shrinking and finishing.
Initial washing: washing with lotion to remove crude oil.
And (3) wool milling: and (3) sewing the wool fabric blank into a cylinder, then shrinking the wool fabric, wherein the shrinking pressure is 0.2kg, the shrinking opening is 12cm, the shrinking agent concentration is 10 wt%, the wool fabric is slowly shrunk under light pressure, the shrinking time is 60 minutes/50 meters, the temperature is 40 ℃, and the width after shrinking is 156 cm.
Air current washing: the vehicle speed is 500m/min, and the impact is 30 min. And (4) washing the grey cloth.
Fluffing: fluffing the dry blank steel wire at the cloth fluffing speed of 8 m/min; the forward needle roller speed is 33 r/min, the reverse needle roller speed is 23 r/min, and the fuzzing is carried out for 12 times.
Except for the above steps, other steps of piece dyeing, drying, softening, pricking, wet brushing, ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, can steaming and preshrinking are the same as the corresponding steps in step S04 of embodiment 1.
And (3) correlation detection:
1. product quality detection
The all-wool short-smooth fabrics prepared in the examples 1 and 2 and the comparative example are subjected to physical index detection according to the requirements in GBT 26378-2011 "carded wool fabric", and the detection results are shown in the following table 1:
TABLE 1 physical index
As can be seen from Table 1, the full-wool short and smooth fabric produced by the method of the invention has the surface density, amplitude, size change rate, strength and pilling indexes all reaching the first-class quality specified in the national standard GB/T26378-2011 carded wool fabric, and all indexes are at the same level as the comparative example.
2. Cost of the charge: the raw materials and production costs of the all-wool short-smooth fabrics prepared in example 1, example 2 and comparative example were calculated, and the results are shown in table 2.
TABLE 2 cost Listing
As shown in Table 2, the raw materials, the spinning and the total cost required by the comparative example are far higher than those of the example 1 and the example 2, so the wool resource and the processing cost can be saved by more than 30% by adopting the production process of the invention, and the production process has considerable economic and social benefits.
The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present application and is not intended to limit the present application, and various modifications and changes may be made by those skilled in the art. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement and the like made within the spirit and principle of the present application shall be included in the protection scope of the present application.
Claims (10)
1. A combed short wool yarn is characterized by comprising the following raw materials:
the blended short wool spinning process comprises the following steps of combing short wool, washing wool and auxiliary fiber, wherein the mass ratio of the combing short wool to the washing wool is (55-75): (25-45), wherein the dosage of the auxiliary fiber accounts for 5-15% of the total weight of the short combed wool and the clean wool.
2. The combed fluff yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that the fineness of the combed fluff is 18.5 ± 2 μm and the fineness of the scour is 19-22 μm; the auxiliary fiber is selected from viscose fiber, cotton fiber, modal, tencel or bamboo fiber, and the specification of the auxiliary fiber is 1.5D 38 mm; the combed short hair is non-carbonized combed short hair.
3. The combed fluff yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is prepared by a process comprising:
weeding-wool-carding-drawing-air spinning-plying-steaming yarn;
mixing short combed wool and clean wool for 2 times, adding 0.5 wt% of wool-mixing oil during the mixing for 2 times, sealing wool for 8 hours, and mixing with auxiliary fiber.
4. A combed spun yarn according to claim 3 wherein the post-fluff moisture regain is controlled at 16% ± 2%;
the weight of the sliver produced after carding is 4 g/m;
drawing for 3 times, wherein the weight of the drawn yarn is 4 g/m;
the number of yarns obtained after air spinning is 12.7-14.5 cm, the Z twisting direction is, and the twist degree is 580 twists/m;
the number of the plied yarns is 12.7/2-14.5/2 metric counts, the S twist direction and the twist degree are 360 twists/m;
the temperature of the yarn steaming is 90 plus or minus 5 ℃, and the heat preservation time is 50 plus or minus 5 min.
5. A method for preparing a full-wool fluff plus material by using the combed fluff yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) weaving design and weaving: weaving single-sided or double-sided weaves of 2/1, 2/2 and 1/3, and weaving warp and weft by using the combed short wool yarn of any one of claims 1-4 to obtain grey cloth;
(2) carbonizing gray fabric: immersing the grey cloth obtained in the step (1) in sulfuric acid, taking out the grey cloth, and baking and carbonizing the grey cloth to obtain a wool cloth blank;
(3) dyeing and finishing: sequentially carrying out the wool fabric blank obtained in the step (2): and (3) performing neutralization washing, fulling, air flow washing, piece dyeing, wet fluffing, needling, wet brushing, softening, drying, ironing, shearing, continuous steaming, pot steaming and preshrinking to prepare the full-wool short and smooth fabric.
6. The method according to claim 5, wherein in the step (1), 0.1 wt% of liquid wax and 0.1 wt% of antistatic agent are added to the warp yarn during warping; the filling rate on the weaving machine is 80%.
7. The method according to claim 5, wherein in the step (2), the concentration of the sulfuric acid is 4-5 wt%; after the grey cloth is taken out, extruding the grey cloth to enable the content of sulfuric acid in the grey cloth to be 50-60% of the mass of the grey cloth; the temperature of the baking carbonization is 120 +/-5 ℃;
preferably, the yarn count of the combed short wool yarns in the carbonized woolen blank is 14/2-16/2 metric counts.
Preferably, the neutralization wash uses Na2CO3The pH of the neutralized wool was 6.5. + -. 0.5.
Preferably, the woolen cloth blank is sewn into a cylinder and then is subjected to fulling, the pressure of the fulling is 0.2kg, the necking is 12cm, the fulling time is 60 minutes/50 meters, the temperature is 40 +/-2 ℃, and the width is 152 cm;
preferably, the speed of the air current washing is 1000m/min, and the time is 25-35 min.
8. The method according to claim 5, wherein in the step (3), the wet raising is raising the wet woolen cloth blank with steel wires at a raising speed of 8 ± 2 m/min; the forward needle roller speed is 30-35 r/min, and the reverse needle roller speed is 29-34 r/min;
preferably, the cloth speed of the needling is 8 +/-2 m/min, and the needling is carried out for 11 times;
preferably, the wet brush is formed by rolling and shaping the wet brush, the steel brush and the brown brush are all used, and the shaping time is 24 hours;
preferably, the softening needs to add 3 wt% of a softening agent;
preferably, the drying temperature is 115 +/-5 ℃;
preferably, the temperature of the hot polishing is 220 +/-2 ℃;
preferably, the length of the shearing is 2 mm.
9. The method according to claim 5, wherein in the step (3), the cloth speed of the continuous steaming is 10 +/-2 m/min;
preferably, the pressure in the tank for steaming is 1.5kg, the steaming time is 3min, the tension of wrapping cloth is 150 +/-20 kg, the pressure of a pressure rod is 50 +/-10 kg, and the temperature in the tank is 120 +/-10 ℃;
preferably, the pre-shrinking vehicle speed is 10m/min, the steam pressure is 4kg or more, the temperature of the hot air shaping box is 105-.
10. The all-wool short smooth fabric prepared by the method of any one of claims 5 to 9.
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