CN113679641A - 一种添加牡丹提取物的面膜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种添加牡丹提取物的面膜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN113679641A CN113679641A CN202111126907.9A CN202111126907A CN113679641A CN 113679641 A CN113679641 A CN 113679641A CN 202111126907 A CN202111126907 A CN 202111126907A CN 113679641 A CN113679641 A CN 113679641A
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种添加牡丹提取物的面膜及其制备方法。该面膜原料由如下组分构成:牡丹提取物、烟酰胺、肌醇、油溶性维生素E、乳化剂、金黄洋甘菊、忍冬花、三七根、杜仲树皮、甘油、低分子玻尿酸、抗菌剂和去离子水。本发明将牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油、金黄洋甘菊、肌醇、低分子玻尿酸、忍冬花、三七根等物质混合形成复合物,形成一种适宜现代女性的美白嫩肤面膜,可以有效提高肌肤的抗氧化能力,且为皮肤注入充足的水分,防止皮肤角质层中的水分蒸发,使负载的植物精华易于吸收,保持面部滋润,美白修复效果好,能有效清除肌肤中的自由基,避免面部肌肤加速老化,减少面部皱纹,具有理想的抗氧化、延缓皮肤衰老的效果。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于日用化妆品技术领域,涉及一种美白抗衰老的化妆品组合物,尤其涉及一种添加牡丹提取物的烟酰胺美白驻颜面膜及其制备方法。
背景技术
现代女性除了紧张的工作压力、家庭压力外,还要忍受恶劣的空气环境,皮肤极易缺水、老化,还很容易导致痤疮和面部皮肤过敏的发生。
面膜是利用覆盖在脸部的短暂时间,暂时隔离外界的空气与污染,提高肌肤温度及皮肤的毛孔扩张、促进汗腺分泌与新陈代谢、使肌肤的含氧量上升、有利于肌肤排除表皮细胞新陈代谢的产物和累积的油脂类物质。面膜中的功效性成分渗入表皮的角质层,清除细胞产生的自由基等有害代谢产物,使皮肤变得柔软,肌肤自然光亮有弹性。
目前市售的面膜琳琅满目,根据不同功效分为美白、保湿、清洁、平衡油脂、抗衰老、舒缓、紧致面膜等,但是许多产品中不仅铅、汞、苯、酚等物质含量超标,而且会添加大量的增稠剂,如卡波、三乙醇胺、丙烯酸钠/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物等物质,以及EDTA螯合剂和含有甲醛释放体的防腐剂,它们虽然能暂时使肌肤呈现亮泽嫩滑状态,但是长期使用会使角质层脱落变薄,导致皮肤红肿,形成色斑,不但不利于肌肤健康,而且还可能引起人体的其它疾病,因而天然植物类面膜因其绿色、天然、安全、无害越来越受到人们的欢迎。
牡丹产业经过近10年的发展,牡丹籽油已经成为一种常见功能性油脂,甜杏仁油也是化妆品开发中常用的原料,两者复合形成的面膜液,组方单一,只能作为基础护理面膜使用,大大降低了该面膜液的市场推广与应用。
CN110101603A公开了一种牡丹面膜,该面膜配置溶液中添加牡丹籽油含有丰富的牡丹多酚,有益于延缓皮肤衰老,抑制色斑,牡丹籽油是从牡丹的花、叶、根、果中提取植物精华,为纯天然绿色精华,没有副作用,通过加入的透明质酸和牡丹酚具有很好的保湿效果,比一般的化学保湿剂更加安全无毒。该发明存在关于牡丹提取物的基本概念认识的错误,首先牡丹籽油是从牡丹籽中提取的油脂,在牡丹花、叶、根中含量很少,目前的工业化生产也不会选择花叶根提取牡丹籽油;此外在该发明组方中使用大量的增稠剂、增溶剂和防腐剂,对皮肤的护理不利。
CN105832648B公开了一种滋养抗衰老牡丹籽油面膜贴及其制备方法。该面膜贴是将蚕丝面膜纸吸足面膜液后消毒而得,所述的面膜液由如下组分制备而成:牡丹籽油、甜杏仁油、乳化剂、依兰纯露、洋甘菊、酵母提取液、表皮深透锁水因子、抗菌剂、去离子水。该面膜贴造价较高,所有的原料营养不够全面,不能取得最佳的效果。
发明内容
鉴于现有技术的不足,以及为了增添新的面膜品种,本发明的目的在于提供一种可供现代女性使用的含有牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油和烟酰胺的面膜及其制备方法,以填补牡丹鲜花原液和牡丹籽油在面膜制备中的使用空白,解决空气污染、疲劳、辐射等原因导致的各种皮肤问题。
为了实现本发明的目的,发明人通过大量试验研究并不懈探索,最终获得了如下一种添加牡丹提取物的美白驻颜面膜技术方案:
一种添加牡丹提取物的面膜添加牡丹提取物的面膜,该面膜中各组分的质量百分含量为:牡丹鲜花原液0.5%-20%,牡丹籽油0.1%-5%,油溶性维生素E 0.1%-5%,乳化剂0.1%-5%,金黄洋甘菊0.5%-20%,甘油1%-10%,低分子玻尿酸0.5%-3%,肌醇0.5%-3%,烟酰胺0.5%-5%,抗菌剂0.05%-5%,忍冬花0.5%-20%,三七根0.3%-10%,杜仲树皮0.2%-5%,3-O-乙基抗坏血酸0.3%-2%,余量为去离子水。
所述的牡丹鲜花原液按如下方法的实施例制备而成:采用亚临界二甲醚低温萃取设备,取牡丹新鲜花瓣加入萃取釜中,以30-50L/h流速通入二甲醚,在温度保持为40-60℃、压力为10-15MPa的条件下萃取2-3h;得牡丹花瓣有机溶剂混合物;通过阀门控制将混合物置于反应釜中,再通过低温高压浓缩设备,增压到15-20MPa,在20℃条件下回收二甲醚后得液相牡丹鲜花原液。
所述的乳化剂选自鲸蜡硬脂醇、月桂醇磷酸酯、C9-15醇磷酸酯、硬脂醇磷酸酯和C20-22醇磷酸酯中的至少一种或任意种、任意量的组合。
所述的牡丹籽油不饱和脂肪酸含量为92.05%。
所述的抗菌剂或是山梨酸钾,或是由辛甘醇和戊二醇质量配比为1∶4而成的复合抗腐剂。
一种添加牡丹提取物的烟酰胺美白驻颜面膜,其中牡丹鲜花原液按如下方法制备而成:采用亚临界二甲醚低温萃取设备,取牡丹新鲜花瓣加入萃取釜中,以30-50L/h流速通入二甲醚,在温度保持为40-60℃、压力为10-15MPa的条件下萃取2-3h;得牡丹花瓣有机溶剂混合物;通过阀门控制将混合物置于反应釜中,再通过低温高压浓缩设备,增压到15-20MPa,在20℃条件下回收二甲醚,得液相牡丹花瓣提取物。
所述的牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油与烟酰胺的重量比为0.5-10∶0.5-2∶2,优选为3∶1∶2。
本发明还提供了一种上述添加牡丹提取物的烟酰胺美白驻颜面膜的制备方法,该方法包括如下步骤:
1)用75%的酒精进行器皿消毒,或用紫外线照射30min进行消毒;
2)在容器中加入组方量的牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油、油溶性维生素E和乳化剂,搅拌均匀,记作溶液I,备用;
3)在另一容器中加入组方量的肌醇、烟酰胺、金黄洋甘菊、甘油、忍冬花、三七根、杜仲树皮,低分子玻尿酸和去离子水、搅拌均匀,记作溶液II,备用;
4)取全量的10%-15%的溶液II加入溶液I中,搅拌4-5min,致溶液澄清透明,再继续加入剩下的溶液II,搅拌均匀,备用;
5)在步骤3)所得溶液中加入组方量的抗菌剂,搅拌均匀后即得面膜精华液。
本发明牡丹鲜花原液选用原生态的优质牡丹鲜花为原料,采用纯物理冷榨工艺精制而成,最大的限度的保留了牡丹鲜花原液中的天然活性物质成分。通过检索国内外现有技术,目前尚未发现利用牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油及烟酰胺等制备面膜液的文献报道,更无针对此面膜的功效检测。
根据抗氧化性能试验研究结果发现,同时含有3%牡丹鲜花原液、1%牡丹籽油和2%烟酰胺的样品2的抗氧化性显著高于添加3%牡丹鲜花原液不添加牡丹籽油和烟酰胺的样品3,显著高于添加1%牡丹籽油不添加牡丹鲜花原液和烟酰胺的样品4以及显著高于只添加2%烟酰胺不添加牡丹鲜花原液和牡丹籽油的样品5,这说明将牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油和烟酰胺的联合使用于护肤品中具有协同清除皮肤组织过量自由基,抗击细胞衰老的作用。因此,本发明还提供了三种特定组分联用的新应用,即:牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油及烟酰胺在制备清除皮肤组织中过量自由基的护肤品中的应用;或者牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油及烟酰胺在制备抗氧化性护肤品中的应用。本发明是一种具有极好功效的美白驻颜面膜。
本发明涉及的添加牡丹提取物的美白驻颜面膜具有如下有益效果:将牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油、烟酰胺、金黄洋甘菊、忍冬花、三七根、杜仲树皮、油溶性维生素E(VitaminE,VE)、低分子玻尿酸等物质制备成一种适宜现代女性的抗氧化驻颜面膜,可以有效提高肌肤的抗氧化能力,且为皮肤注入充足的水分,防止皮肤角质层中的水分蒸发,使负载的植物精华易于吸收,保持面部滋润,避免面部肌肤加速老化,减少面部皱纹,具有理想的抗氧化、延缓衰老的效果。
附图说明
图1:实施例1制备的添加牡丹提取物1面膜的保湿率曲线图;
图2:不同处理的面膜液DPPH清除率效果对比图。
具体实施方式
本发明公开一种添加牡丹提取物的面膜及其制备方法。其方案为:
一种添加牡丹提取物的面膜,该面膜原料由如下组分构成:牡丹提取物、烟酰胺、肌醇、油溶性维生素E、乳化剂、金黄洋甘菊、忍冬花、三七根、杜仲树皮、甘油、低分子玻尿酸、抗菌剂和去离子水。其中,所述的牡丹提取物为牡丹鲜花原液和牡丹籽油。
作为优选方案,该面膜中各组分的质量百分含量为:牡丹鲜花原液0.5%-20%,牡丹籽油0.1%-5%,油溶性维生素E 0.1%-5%,乳化剂0.1%-5%,金黄洋甘菊0.5%-20%,甘油1%-10%,低分子玻尿酸0.5%-3%,肌醇0.5%-3%,烟酰胺0.5%-5%,抗菌剂0.05%-5%,忍冬花0.5%-20%,三七根0.3%-10%,杜仲树皮0.2%-5%,3-O-乙基抗坏血酸0.3%-2%,余量为去离子水。
其中,所述的牡丹鲜花原液按如下方法的实施例制备而成:采用亚临界二甲醚低温萃取设备,取牡丹新鲜花瓣加入萃取釜中,以30-50L/h流速通入二甲醚,在温度保持为40-60℃、压力为10-15MPa的条件下萃取2-3h;得牡丹花瓣有机溶剂混合物;通过阀门控制将混合物置于反应釜中,再通过低温高压浓缩设备,增压到15-20MPa,在20℃条件下回收二甲醚后得液相牡丹鲜花原液。
牡丹籽油采购自牡丹之都菏泽派恩生物科技有限公司,不饱和脂肪酸含量为92.05%。
所述的乳化剂选自鲸蜡硬脂醇、月桂醇磷酸酯、C9-15醇磷酸酯、硬脂醇磷酸酯和C20-22醇磷酸酯中的至少一种或任意种、任意量的组合。
所述的抗菌剂或是山梨酸钾,或是由辛甘醇和戊二醇质量配比为1∶4而成的复合抗腐剂。辛甘醇是一种植物抗菌剂,属于中短碳链的端基二醇,与戊二醇复配使用,可有效抑制面膜中细菌和霉菌的滋生。
所述的护肤品为添加牡丹提取物的烟酰胺美白驻颜面膜,其中牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油与烟酰胺的重量比为0.5-10∶0.5-2∶2,优选为3∶1∶2。
一种添加牡丹提取物的面膜的制备方法,该方法包括如下步骤:
1)用75%的酒精进行器皿消毒,或用紫外线照射30min进行消毒;
2)在容器中加入组方量的牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油、油溶性维生素E和乳化剂,搅拌均匀,记作溶液I,备用;
3)在另一容器中加入组方量的肌醇、烟酰胺、金黄洋甘菊、甘油、忍冬花、三七根、杜仲树皮,低分子玻尿酸和去离子水、搅拌均匀,记作溶液II,备用;
4)取全量的10%-15%的溶液II加入溶液I中,搅拌4-5min,致溶液澄清透明,再继续加入剩下的溶液II,搅拌均匀,备用;
5)在步骤3)所得溶液中加入组方量的抗菌剂,搅拌均匀后即得面膜精华液。
本发明将牡丹籽油、甜杏仁油、洋甘菊、表皮深透锁水因子等物质混合形成一种锁水保湿抗氧化的面膜液,含有牡丹籽油和甜杏仁油的面膜液搭配面膜纸使用时,面膜纸把皮肤紧紧地包裹起来,让皮肤与外界的空气阻隔开,使水份缓缓地渗透入表皮的角质层,促进肌肤对面膜液的吸收,加速皮肤深层的血液微循环,增加了表皮各层细胞的活力,同时也防止膜内的水份很快丢失,增加肌肤弹性,起到紧致提拉、防皱抗衰老、消炎排毒的作用。
下面的实施例仅对本发明的进一步说明,不以任何方式限制本发明。实施例中所提到的原料的重量比例可做适当调整。
实施例1:一种添加牡丹提取物的面膜,其组分及各组分的重量百分含量如下:
牡丹鲜花原液3.0%,牡丹籽油1.0%;油溶性维生素E 0.5%,乳化剂1.0%,金黄洋甘菊0.5%,甘油2%,低分子玻尿酸0.5%,肌醇1%,烟酰胺2%,抗菌剂0.2%,忍冬花1%,三七根0.5%,杜仲树皮0.75%,3-O-乙基抗坏血酸0.5%,余量为去离子水。其中,抗菌剂是由辛甘醇和戊二醇质量配比为1∶4而成的复合抗腐剂。
实施例2:一种添加牡丹提取物的面膜,其组分及各组分的重量百分含量如下:
牡丹鲜花原液2.0%,牡丹籽油0.5%;油溶性维生素E 1.0%,乳化剂1.0%,金黄洋甘菊0.5%,甘油2%,低分子玻尿酸0.5%,肌醇1%,烟酰胺3.0%,抗菌剂0.2%,忍冬花1%,三七根0.5%,杜仲树皮0.75%,3-O-乙基抗坏血酸0.5%,余量为去离子水。其中,抗菌剂是山梨酸钾。
本发明产品表观性能观测:
选用实施例1制备的添加牡丹提取物的面膜贴,并观察其表观指标,结果如下表:
实施例1制备的牡丹提取物的面膜表观性状
结果显示:产品气味及稳定性较好,且pH值为5.5,属于弱酸性,非常适合东方人皮肤(平均pH值约为5.8),能使皮肤处于最佳的营养吸收状态。
本发明产品保湿性测定试验:
选用实施例1制备的添加牡丹提取物的面膜,并测试其保湿性。依据邓一清《4种海洋贝类多糖提取和保湿性研究》文献中的方法,稍作改动,具体如下:采用硅胶干燥器,环境温度为20℃。取含有3%牡丹鲜花原液的面膜1mL置于EP管中,精确称量其质量记作H,置于干燥器中,放置1、2、3、4、5、6、7、23h后再次称重,记作Hn,保湿率计算公式如下:保湿率(%)=Hn/HO×100%式中:HO为试样含水质量,Hn为放置n h后试样含水质量。
实验结果统计如图1所示。从图1可以看出,此款面膜的保湿性在7h后,仍然能够达到99.7%,23h后保湿率还高达98.5%,保湿性远高于孔合心等《昆布氨酸的吸湿保湿性及动力学研究》文献中提到的护肤品中常用的保湿剂甘油(保湿率:96%)和L-赖氨酸盐酸盐(保湿率:87.6%)。
本发明产品抗氧化性测定试验:
按照实施例1制备的添加牡丹提取物的面膜,并测试其抗氧化性。参照Shimada等《Antioxidative properties of xanthan on the autoxidation of soybeanoil incyclodextrin》文献中提到的方法,稍作改动,具体如下:取2mL样品溶液加入EP管中,加入2mL 1mmol·L-1DPPH乙醇溶液,于室温下避光在黑暗处反应30min,观察其颜色变化,根据此颜色确定具有相同抗氧化作用的维生素C的浓度。取2mL维生素C溶液加入EP管中,加入2mL 1mmol·L-1DPPH乙醇溶液;取2mL70%的乙醇溶液加入EP管中,加入2mL 1mmol·L-1DPPH乙醇溶液,于室温下避光在黑暗处反应30min,以70%的乙醇溶液作为空白对照,在525nm处测定吸光度(A),分别记作A和A。每个浓度重复3次测试以保证实验结果的准确性,最后取平均值作为拟合数据。DPPH清除率计算:
DPPH清除率(%)=(1-A样品/A对照)×100。颜色越浅,对DPPH自由基的清除率越高,抗氧化性也越强。
实验结果如图2所示。其中:1为3%牡丹鲜花原液、1%牡丹籽油和2%烟酰胺处理组;2为3%牡丹鲜花原液不添加牡丹籽油和烟酰胺处理组;3为添加1%牡丹籽油不添加牡丹鲜花原液和烟酰胺处理组;字母代表在3%的显著性水平上的差异性分析结果,处理间含相同字母表明无显著性差异,不含相同字母表明存在显著性差异。根据图2的试验结果可以看出,处理1的抗氧化性(95.6%)显著性高于只添加3%牡丹鲜花原液不添加牡丹籽油和烟酰胺(处理2)的抗氧化性(81.6%),并且显著高于只添加1%牡丹籽油不添加牡丹鲜花原液和烟酰胺(处理3)的抗氧化性(53.4%)和添加极少量(0.6%)牡丹鲜花原液而不添加牡丹籽油和烟酰胺作为处理4;这表明牡丹鲜花原液与牡丹籽油、烟酰胺进行有效的协同作用,提高面膜对自由基的清除率,增强抗氧化性。这将为纯植物面膜及植物抗氧化剂的研发提供新的线索与思路。
本发明产品试用试验:
选用实施例1制备的添加牡丹提取物的面膜,测试其试用效果。将此面膜分给20个年龄在20至50岁的女士试用,规定每周使用2次,试用4W后填写试用效果反馈表。试用效果统计如下表:
Claims (10)
1.一种添加牡丹提取物的面膜,其特征在于,该面膜原料由如下组分构成:
牡丹提取物、烟酰胺、肌醇、油溶性维生素E、乳化剂、金黄洋甘菊、忍冬花、三七根、杜仲树皮、甘油、低分子玻尿酸、抗菌剂和去离子水;其中,所述的牡丹提取物为牡丹鲜花原液和牡丹籽油。
2.根据权利要求1所述的添加牡丹提取物的面膜,其特征在于,该面膜中各组分的质量百分含量为:牡丹鲜花原液0.5%-20%,牡丹籽油0.1%-5%,油溶性维生素E 0.1%-5%,乳化剂0.1%-5%,金黄洋甘菊0.5%-20%,甘油1%-10%,低分子玻尿酸0.5%-3%,肌醇0.5%-3%,烟酰胺0.5%-5%,抗菌剂0.05%-5%,忍冬花0.5%-20%,三七根0.3%-10%,杜仲树皮0.2%-5%,3-0-乙基抗坏血酸0.3%-2%,余量为去离子水。
3.根据权利要求2所述的添加牡丹提取物的面膜,其特征在于,该面膜中各组分的质量百分含量为:牡丹鲜花原液3.0%,牡丹籽油1.0%;油溶性维生素E 0.5%,乳化剂1.0%,金黄洋甘菊0.5%,甘油2%,低分子玻尿酸0.5%,肌醇1%,烟酰胺2%,抗菌剂0.2%,忍冬花1%,三七根0.5%,杜仲树皮0.75%,3-0-乙基抗坏血酸0.5%,余量为去离子水;其中,抗菌剂是由辛甘醇和戊二醇质量配比为1∶4而成的复合抗腐剂。
4.根据权利要求2所述的添加牡丹提取物的面膜,其特征在于,该面膜中各组分的质量百分含量为:牡丹鲜花原液2.0%,牡丹籽油0.5%;油溶性维生素E 1.0%,乳化剂1.0%,金黄洋甘菊0.5%,甘油2%,低分子玻尿酸0.5%,肌醇1%,烟酰胺3.0%,抗菌剂0.2%,忍冬花1%,三七根0.5%,杜仲树皮0.75%,3-0-乙基抗坏血酸0.5%,余量为去离子水;其中,抗菌剂是山梨酸钾。
5.根据权利要求1-4其中之一所述的添加牡丹提取物的面膜,其特征在于,所述的牡丹鲜花原液按如下方法的实施例制备而成:采用亚临界二甲醚低温萃取设备,取牡丹新鲜花瓣加入萃取釜中,以30-50L/h流速通人二甲醚,在温度保持为40-60℃、压力为10-15MPa的条件下萃取2-3h;得牡丹花瓣有机溶剂混合物;通过阀门控制将混合物置于反应釜中,再通过低温高压浓缩设备,增压到15-20MPa,在20℃条件下回收二甲醚后得液相牡丹鲜花原液。
6.根据权利要求1-4其中之一所述的添加牡丹提取物的面膜,其特征在于,所述的牡丹籽油不饱和脂肪酸含量为92.05%。
7.根据权利要求1-4其中之一所述的添加牡丹提取物的面膜,其特征在于,所述的乳化剂选自鲸蜡硬脂醇、月桂醇磷酸酯、C9-15醇磷酸酯、硬脂醇磷酸酯和C20-22醇磷酸酯中的至少一种或任意种、任意量的组合。
8.根据权利要求1或2所述的添加牡丹提取物的面膜,其特征在于,所述的抗菌剂或是山梨酸钾,或是由辛甘醇和戊二醇质量配比为1∶4而成的复合抗腐剂。
9.根据权利要求2、3或4所述的护肤品为添加牡丹提取物的烟酰胺美白驻颜面膜,其中牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油与烟酰胺的重量比为0.5-10∶0.5-2∶2,优选为3∶1∶2。
10.一种添加牡丹提取物的面膜的制备方法,该方法包括如下步骤:
1)用75%的酒精进行器皿消毒,或用紫外线照射30min进行消毒;
2)在容器中加入组方量的牡丹鲜花原液、牡丹籽油、油溶性维生素E和乳化剂,搅拌均匀,记作溶液I,备用;
3)在另一容器中加人组方量的肌醇、烟酰胺、金黄洋甘菊、甘油、忍冬花、三七根、杜仲树皮,低分子玻尿酸和去离子水、搅拌均匀,记作溶液II,备用;
4)取全量的10%-15%的溶液II加人溶液I中,搅拌4-5min,致溶液澄清透明,再继续加入剩下的溶液II,搅拌均匀,备用;
5)在步骤3)所得溶液中加人组方量的抗菌剂,搅拌均匀后即得面膜精华液。
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