CN113318065A - 一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物及其制备工艺 - Google Patents
一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物及其制备工艺 Download PDFInfo
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- CN113318065A CN113318065A CN202110496763.XA CN202110496763A CN113318065A CN 113318065 A CN113318065 A CN 113318065A CN 202110496763 A CN202110496763 A CN 202110496763A CN 113318065 A CN113318065 A CN 113318065A
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物，按照质量分数，由以下组分组成：保湿剂4‑6份，增稠剂0.2‑0.6份，螯合剂0.8‑1.0份，复合酸组合物8‑12份，复合微生态调理组合物3‑6份，pH调节剂3‑4份，增溶剂0‑5份，余量为纯净水，以上组分的质量百分比之和为100％。本发明还公开了该组合物的制备工艺。本发明的复合酸和微生态调理组合物，根据痘痘产生机理，从疏通毛孔的最基本的点出发，抑制产生过多皮脂，抑制痤疮丙酸杆菌的增殖，快速消除已经产生的痘痘；同时调整皮肤微生态平衡，使皮肤表面微生物菌群恢复和保持良性循环。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于护肤品制备技术领域，具体涉及一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物，还涉及该复合酸和微生态调理组合物的制备工艺。
背景技术
痘痘，痤疮的一种，痤疮在发展的不同阶段分别叫粉刺，丘疹，脓包，结节和囊肿等，痘痘的产生是一个复杂的过程，与众多因素有关，包括遗传、作息、饮食、环境、甚至使用的化妆品等等，这些因素通过不同的途径，最终会导致毛囊堵塞，皮脂腺分泌大量皮脂，促使大量痤疮丙酸杆菌繁殖，破坏毛囊壁，引起毛囊周围的结缔组织发炎，随着时间的延长，从而出现不同程度的痤疮。因此许多研究者认为痤疮丙酸杆菌是痘痘产生的头号敌人，消灭痤疮丙酸杆菌成为了许多祛痘类产品的研发方向。目前针对痤疮，皮肤科医生建议主要以系统的药物治疗为主，维A酸类、抗菌药物和激素治疗，但是此类药物刺激性和副反应较大，而且易诱导痤疮丙酸杆菌耐药，使用不当会破坏皮肤表皮层，严重的会烂脸，甚至留下痘印和痘疤。
有研究表明，痤疮丙酸杆菌是皮肤表面的常驻菌群之一，和表皮葡萄球菌，金黄葡糖球菌，马拉色菌等一起组成皮肤局部的微生态环境，当有异常情况发生时，皮肤表面的微生物菌群失衡，细菌大量繁殖，会直接或者间接导致痤疮等一系列皮肤问题产生，所以单纯依靠消灭痤疮丙酸杆菌来治疗痘痘肌是非常片面的，甚至会得不偿失，出现更严重的肌肤问题。
针对痘痘肌，最基本的是通过疏通毛孔、抑制过多的皮脂产生来抑制痤疮丙酸杆菌的增殖，最终通过调节皮肤表面微生态使长痘部位的微生物菌群达到平衡的状态，避免痘痘反复出现，从而彻底消灭痘痘肌。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物，解决了使用现有酸类祛痘产品痘痘易反复出现，且具有较大刺激性的问题。
本发明的另一目的是提供上述复合酸和微生态调理组合物的制备方法。
本发明所采用的技术方案是，一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物，按照质量分数，由以下组分组成：保湿剂4-6份，增稠剂0.2-0.6份，螯合剂0.8-1.0份，复合酸组合物8-12份，复合微生态调理组合物3-6份，pH调节剂3-4份，增溶剂0-5份，余量为纯净水，以上组分的质量百分比之和为100％。
本发明的特点还在于，
保湿剂具体为甘油、1,2-己二醇、1,3-丙二醇和1,2戊二醇中任意不少于两种的组合；pH调节剂具体为精氨酸和氢氧化钠中的一种或者两种。
增稠剂具体为酸豆籽胶、黄原胶、羟乙基纤维素中的任意一种或者多种；螯合剂具体为乙二胺四乙酸二钠、植酸钠、亚硫酸氢钠中的任意一种或者多种；增溶剂具体为乙氧基二甘醇。
复合酸组合物具体为扁桃酸、壬二酸、乳糖酸、葡糖酸内酯和水杨酸中任意不少于三种的组合。
复合微态调理组合物为皮肤益生素、水解酵母蛋白、乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液中任意不少于两种的组合物。
本发明所采用的另一技术方案是，一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物的制备工艺，具体包括以下步骤：
步骤1，按照质量分数，称取以下组分：保湿剂4-6份，增稠剂0.2-0.6份，螯合剂0.8-1.0份，复合酸组合物8-12份，复合微生态调理组合物3-6份，pH调节剂3-4份，增溶剂0-5份，余量为纯净水，以上组分的质量百分比之和为100％；
步骤2，将保湿剂和增稠剂混合均匀，之后加入到纯净水中，搅拌，并且加热至80-85℃，保温15-25min，待温度降至60-65℃，加入复合酸组合物，搅拌均匀，并且保温5-10min；
步骤3，待步骤2中得到的组合物温度降至40℃以下，加入复合微生态调理组合物、pH调节剂和螯合剂，搅拌均匀，即可得预制组合物；
步骤4，检测：待步骤3得到预制组合物满足检测条件时，即为所需的复合酸和微生态调理组合物；检测条件：pH＝3.5-4.5，且在25℃条件下，转子转速为60rpm时粘度为10-50mpas。
本发明的有益效果是：本发明的复合酸和微生态调理组合物，根据痘痘产生机理，从疏通毛孔的最基本的点出发，抑制产生过多皮脂，抑制痤疮丙酸杆菌的增殖，快速消除已经产生的痘痘；同时调整皮肤微生态平衡，使皮肤表面微生物菌群恢复和保持良性循环。本发明的产品安全，温和无刺激，无防腐，无香精，无酒精，且制备工艺简单，容易操作，成本低，有很好的祛痘和控油效果，并且不会反复。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施方式对本发明进行详细说明。
本发明一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物，按照质量分数，由以下组分组成：保湿剂4-6份，增稠剂0.2-0.6份，螯合剂0.8-1.0份，复合酸组合物8-12份，复合微生态调理组合物3-6份，pH调节剂3-4份，增溶剂0-5份，余量为纯净水，以上组分的质量百分比之和为100％。
其中，纯净水为溶剂。
保湿剂具体为甘油、1,2-己二醇、1,3-丙二醇和1,2戊二醇中任意不少于两种的组合，主要作用是溶剂和提高产品保湿度。
增稠剂具体为酸豆籽胶、黄原胶、羟乙基纤维素中的任意一种或者多种，主要作用是增加产品粘稠度，提高使用感受。
螯合剂具体为乙二胺四乙酸二钠、植酸钠、亚硫酸氢钠中的任意一种或者多种，主要作用是稳定整个体系。
增溶剂具体为乙氧基二甘醇，主要作用是溶解产品中难溶的活性物。
复合酸组合物具体为扁桃酸、壬二酸、乳糖酸、葡糖酸内酯和水杨酸中任意不少于三种的组合，以上五种酸类针对痤疮都有很好的改善效果，而复合酸组合物中使用多种酸类搭配，从痤疮发生的不同途径和维度去改善，效果会更加明显；同时多种酸类搭配，减少单一酸使用量过高而带来的安全性问题。除此之外，以上酸类也有美白，抗氧化，缩小毛孔，恢复屏障等功效，其中扁桃酸和水杨酸联合使用,针对痤疮和色素沉着效果更佳显著；乳糖酸和葡糖酸内酯搭配对于软化角质和疏通毛孔有增效作用。
其中，扁桃酸是一种含芳香基的α-羟基酸，其分子量约为152.1道尔顿，这种大分子量的扁桃酸可以更缓慢地渗透皮肤，因此非常温和，不会对皮肤产生刺激。扁桃酸有非常好的抑制酪氨酸酶活性的作用和温和去角质的作用，同时它能够改善痤疮和雀斑，特别是与水杨酸联合使用，对比较活跃的痤疮和痤疮后的色素沉着的治疗有显著效果。
壬二酸是一种天然存在的二元羧酸，可通过对抗痤疮丙酸杆菌、改变毛囊的成熟和增殖方式，作用于毛囊上的细胞，减少毛囊堵塞和减少丝状蛋白的合成，防治毛囊过度角化等途径有效改善痤疮；同时，壬二酸能够抑制异常色素细胞中的酪氨酸酶活性和色素合成，并抑制异常色素细胞中的DNA合成和线粒体酶活性，改善痤疮的同时能够亮白皮肤。
葡糖酸内酯属于第二代果酸，与α-羟基酸有相似的功效，比α-羟基酸刺激性更低，适合于所有类型的皮肤，包括敏感肌。
乳糖酸属于第三代果酸，相较于第二代果酸，增加了对毛孔的清洁力，有效疏通毛孔，改善毛孔堵塞，与第二代果酸(葡糖酸内酯)搭配，降低刺激的同时，不影响软化角质和疏通毛孔的效果。
水杨酸使用的是包裹水杨酸，解决了水杨酸难以溶解的问题，同时能够稳定缓慢释放，不会产生刺激。包裹水杨酸能够通过抑制5-α还原酶的活性和抑制痤疮丙酸杆菌增殖来改善和抑制痤疮的产生，并且具有修复痘印的功效；同时有很好的剥脱角质和消炎的功效。
复合微态调理组合物为皮肤益生素，水解酵母蛋白，乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液中任意不少于两种的组合物，通过增加益生元和益生菌成分，增强皮肤微生物屏障。选择复合微生态调理组合物，尽量选择多种类的益生菌，帮助皮肤改善和稳固皮肤表面微生态环境；益生元是无生物活性的糖类物质，与益生菌搭配使用，能促进益生菌的生长繁殖。
皮肤益生素主要由α-葡聚糖寡糖、β-低聚果糖、干酪乳杆菌和嗜酸乳酸杆菌等益生元和益生菌的成分组成的共生益生素，能够竞争性抑制致病菌的增殖，调整皮肤表面微生物菌群平衡，从而起到强化微生物屏障的作用。
水解酵母蛋白主要是酵母抽提物经乳酸菌生物发酵后的产物，主要成分有多肽，氨基酸，短链脂肪酸和乳酸等，能显著促进皮肤脂质的合成，加速皮肤屏障的恢复；水解酵母蛋白还通过促进TLR2(角质蛋白受体，能识别细菌等外来微生物，并且传递信号给免疫细胞)水平增加和促进Dectin-1a(识别真菌和一些细菌的多糖类物质)水平增加来显著提高皮肤微生物屏障的防御能力。
乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液是从日本黑豆乳通过16个属，共35种乳酸杆菌模仿人体消化系统环境发酵而来，通过改善皮肤微生物质量和多样性来增强皮肤微生态的防御能力。
pH调节剂具体为精氨酸和氢氧化钠中的一种或者两种，主要作用是调节体系pH。
本发明一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物的制备工艺，具体包括以下步骤：
步骤1，按照质量分数，称取以下组分：保湿剂4-6份，增稠剂0.2-0.6份，螯合剂0.8-1.0份，复合酸组合物8-12份，复合微生态调理组合物3-6份，pH调节剂3-4份，增溶剂0-5份，余量为纯净水，以上组分的质量百分比之和为100％。
步骤2，将保湿剂和增稠剂混合均匀，之后加入到纯净水中，搅拌，并且加热至80-85℃，保温15-25min，待温度降至60-65℃，加入复合酸组合物，搅拌均匀，并且保温5-10min；
若复合酸组合物中含有扁桃酸时，则待温度降至70-75℃，加入扁桃酸；之后将温度降至60-65℃，加入其他种类的复合酸组合物；
若复合酸组合物中含有壬二酸时，则需使用乙氧基二甘醇溶解壬二酸；
步骤3，待步骤2中得到的组合物温度降至40℃以下，加入复合微生态调理组合物、pH调节剂和螯合剂，搅拌均匀，即可得预制组合物，
步骤4，检测：将步骤3得到预制组合物满足检测条件时，即为本发明所需的复合酸和微生态调理组合物；检测条件：pH＝3.5-4.5，在25℃条件下，转子转速为60rpm，粘度为10-50mpas。
本发明制备工艺中，将保湿剂和增稠剂预分散后加热至80-85℃，并搅拌，目的是将分散的增稠剂在高温下溶解完全，保证产品有比较较好的使用感；在70-75℃时加入扁桃酸，目的是保证扁桃酸在此温度下能够很好的溶解，避免产品出现析出问题，保证产品的稳定性；
本发明的复合酸和微生态调理组合物，应当严格按照工艺流程进行制备，如温度控制不当、原料添加顺序不对或预处理不当会产品使用效果不佳甚至无法使用。
实施例1
一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物及其制备工艺，具体包括以下步骤：
步骤1，称取原料
按照质量分数，称取以下组分：保湿剂5份(1,2-戊二醇2份、1,3-丙二醇3份)，增稠剂0.4份(黄原胶0.3份、羟乙基纤维素0.1份)，螯合剂0.85份(乙二胺四乙酸二钠0.05份、辛酰羟戊酸0.8份)，复合酸组合物9.3份(扁桃酸6份、壬二酸0.3份、乳糖酸1份、水杨酸2份)，复合微生态调理组合物3份(皮肤益生素2份、乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液1份)，pH调节剂2.5份(精氨酸2份、氢氧化钠0.5份)，增溶剂(乙氧基二甘醇)5份，纯净水为73.95份，以上组分的质量百分比之和为100％；
步骤2，将步骤1中保湿剂和增稠剂混合分散均匀，加入纯净水，搅拌加热至温度85℃，随后保温25min；待温度冷却至72℃，将扁桃酸加入，搅拌均匀，保温8min；之后将壬二酸和乙氧基二甘醇混合，搅拌至完全溶解；待温度冷却至62℃，加入壬二酸和乙氧基二甘醇混合物、乳糖酸和水杨酸，搅拌均匀；
步骤3，待温度降至40℃以下，加入皮肤益生素、乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液、精氨酸、氢氧化钠、乙二胺四乙酸二钠、辛酰羟戊酸，搅拌均匀；
步骤4，当满足检测要求时，即得到复合酸和微生态调理组合物；检测要求为：使用NDJ-5S型粘度计在2#转子60rpm在25℃条件下，粘度为32.8mpa·s、pH为3.9，满足要求。
实施例2
本发明一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物及其制备工艺，具体包括以下步骤：
步骤1，按照质量分数，称取以下组分：保湿剂5.5份(1,2-己二醇0.5份、1,3-丙二醇3份，甘油2份)，增稠剂0.4份(酸豆籽胶0.3份、羟乙基纤维素0.1份)，螯合剂0.88份(植酸钠0.08、辛酰羟戊酸0.8份)，复合酸组合物11份(扁桃酸5份、乳糖酸1份、葡糖酸内酯3份、水杨酸2份)，复合微生态调理组合物3份(皮肤益生素2份、乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液1份)，pH调节剂3.4份(精氨酸3份、氢氧化钠0.4份)，纯净水为75.82份，以上组分的质量百分比之和为100％；
步骤2，将步骤1中保湿剂和增稠剂混合分散均匀，加入纯净水，搅拌加热至温度83℃，随后保温25min；待温度冷却至63℃，加入扁桃酸，搅拌均匀，保温6min；加入乳糖酸、葡糖酸内酯和水杨酸，搅拌均匀；
步骤3，待温度降至40℃以下，加入皮肤益生素，水解酵母蛋白，乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液，精氨酸，氢氧化钠，植酸钠，辛酰羟戊酸，搅拌均匀；
步骤4，当满足检测要求时，即得到复合酸和微生态调理组合物；检测要求为：使用NDJ-5S型粘度计在2#转子60rpm在25℃条件下，粘度为24.8mpa·s、pH为3.82，满足要求。
实施例3
本发明一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物及其制备工艺，具体包括以下步骤：
步骤1，按照质量分数，称取以下组分：保湿剂5份(1,2-戊二醇2份、甘油3份)，增稠剂0.5份(黄原胶0.2份、酸豆籽胶0.2份、羟乙基纤维素0.1份)，螯合剂0.9份(亚硫酸氢钠0.1份、辛酰羟戊酸0.8份)，复合酸组合物9.2份(扁桃酸4份、壬二酸0.2份、乳糖酸1份、葡糖酸内酯2份、水杨酸2份)，复合微生态调理组合物3份(皮肤益生素2份、乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液1份)，PH调节剂2.5份(精氨酸2份、氢氧化钠0.5份)，增溶剂(乙氧基二甘醇)3份，纯净水为75.9份，以上组分的质量百分比之和为100％；
步骤2，将步骤1中保湿剂和增稠剂混合分散均匀，加入纯净水，搅拌加热至温度84℃，随后保温25min；待温度冷却至73℃，加入扁桃酸，搅拌均匀，保温7min；将壬二酸和乙氧基二甘醇混合，搅拌至完全溶解；待温度冷却至64℃，加入溶解好的混合物、乳糖酸、葡糖酸内酯和水杨酸，搅拌均匀；
步骤3，待温度降至40℃以下，加入皮肤益生素乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液，精氨酸，氢氧化钠，亚硫酸氢钠，辛酰羟戊酸，搅拌均匀；
步骤4，当满足检测要求时，即得到复合酸和微生态调理组合物；检测要求为：使用NDJ-5S型粘度计在2#转子60rpm在25℃条件下，粘度为36.8mpa·s、pH为3.87，满足要求。
对本发明方法制备的复合酸和微生态调理组合物进行安全性和有效性评价：
1.安全性评价
1.1实验方法：参照《化妆品安全技术规范》2015版人体斑贴试验要求做皮肤封闭型斑贴试验，依据化妆品皮肤病诊断标准及处理原则总则(GB 17149-1)和化妆品接触性皮炎诊断标准及处理原则(GB 17149-2)评价结果。
1.2实验样本：30人，18-35岁之间
1.3实验结果：30名志愿者没有人出现不适，结果表明该复合酸和微生态调理组合物安全性通过。
2.治疗痤疮功效评价
1.1实验方法：复合酸和微生态调理组合物、阿达帕林凝胶和同类竞品三种祛痘产品对比测试，分别把复合酸和微生态调理组合物、阿达帕林凝胶和同类日化化妆品装入相同的包材，标记一号、二号和三号祛痘产品，分发给指定人群，
1.2每晚洁面后点涂在长痘部位，轻轻按摩至吸收，连续使用一个月，利用VISIA数据分析和功效测试问卷调查对其功效进行评价。
1.3实验样本：三组，30人/每组，轻到中度痤疮人群，18-35岁之间。
1.4实验数据：
一号：复合酸和微生态调理组合物
二号：阿达帕林凝胶
三号：某品牌酸类祛痘化妆品
表1功效VISIA测试数据和主观评价
表2安全性主观评价数据
注：反应程度评级参照《化妆品安全技术规范》2015版人体试用试验皮肤反映分级标准。
1.5结果讨论：使用三类产品后，其功效VISIA测试数据和主观评价，如表1所示，由表可知，使用现有的阿达帕林凝胶药物和祛痘化妆品，对于皮肤斑点、毛孔、红区和紫质的改善率均小于使用本发明的复合酸和微生态调理组合物；该复合酸和微生态调理组合物主要对改善轻中度痤疮有显著效果，改善率90％以上，并且有一定的缩小毛孔和改善皮肤油脂平衡的效果；痤疮的改善效果和阿达帕林凝胶相近，比祛痘化妆品效果好；表2为使用三类产品后的安全性主观评价数据，可以看出该复合酸和微生态调理组合物较阿达帕林凝胶有更高的安全性，大大减小了使用过程中刺激和脱皮等问题。
Claims (7)
1.一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物，其特征在于，按照质量分数，由以下组分组成：保湿剂4-6份，增稠剂0.2-0.6份，螯合剂0.8-1.0份，复合酸组合物8-12份，复合微生态调理组合物3-6份，pH调节剂3-4份，增溶剂0-5份，余量为纯净水，以上组分的质量百分比之和为100％。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物，其特征在于，所述保湿剂具体为甘油、1,2-己二醇、1,3-丙二醇和1,2戊二醇中任意不少于两种的组合；所述pH调节剂具体为精氨酸和氢氧化钠中的一种或者两种。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物，其特征在于，所述增稠剂具体为酸豆籽胶、黄原胶、羟乙基纤维素中的任意一种或者多种；所述螯合剂具体为乙二胺四乙酸二钠、植酸钠、亚硫酸氢钠中的任意一种或者多种；所述增溶剂具体为乙氧基二甘醇。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物，其特征在于，所述复合酸组合物具体为扁桃酸、壬二酸、乳糖酸、葡糖酸内酯和水杨酸中任意不少于三种的组合。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物，其特征在于，所述复合微态调理组合物为皮肤益生素、水解酵母蛋白、乳酸杆菌/豆浆发酵产物滤液中任意不少于两种的组合物。
6.一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物的制备工艺，其特征在于，具体包括以下步骤：
步骤1，按照质量分数，称取以下组分：保湿剂4-6份，增稠剂0.2-0.6份，螯合剂0.8-1.0份，复合酸组合物8-12份，复合微生态调理组合物3-6份，pH调节剂3-4份，增溶剂0-5份，余量为纯净水，以上组分的质量百分比之和为100％；
步骤2，将保湿剂和增稠剂混合均匀，之后加入到纯净水中，搅拌，并且加热至80-85℃，保温15-25min，待温度降至60-65℃，加入复合酸组合物，搅拌均匀，并且保温5-10min；
步骤3，待步骤2中得到的组合物温度降至40℃以下，加入复合微生态调理组合物、pH调节剂和螯合剂，搅拌均匀，即可得预制组合物；
步骤4，检测：待步骤3得到预制组合物满足检测条件时，即为所需的复合酸和微生态调理组合物。
7.根据权利要求6所述的一种复合酸和微生态调理组合物的制备工艺，其特征在于，所述检测条件：pH＝3.5-4.5，且在25℃条件下，转子转速为60rpm时粘度为10-50mpas。
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Denomination of invention: A composite acid and microecological conditioning composite and its preparation process Effective date of registration: 20231206 Granted publication date: 20230103 Pledgee: Xi'an Chanba Financing Guarantee Co.,Ltd. Pledgor: Xi'an Runyu Medical Technology Co.,Ltd. Registration number: Y2023610000755 |