CN113244157A - Anti-darkness makeup powder cake and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Anti-darkness makeup powder cake and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN113244157A CN113244157A CN202110622248.1A CN202110622248A CN113244157A CN 113244157 A CN113244157 A CN 113244157A CN 202110622248 A CN202110622248 A CN 202110622248A CN 113244157 A CN113244157 A CN 113244157A
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- powder
- organic framework
- framework material
- cyclodextrin
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- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 145
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 22
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- HFHDHCJBZVLPGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N schardinger α-dextrin Chemical class O1C(C(C2O)O)C(CO)OC2OC(C(C2O)O)C(CO)OC2OC(C(C2O)O)C(CO)OC2OC(C(O)C2O)C(CO)OC2OC(C(C2O)O)C(CO)OC2OC2C(O)C(O)C1OC2CO HFHDHCJBZVLPGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 29
- HQKMJHAJHXVSDF-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium stearate Chemical compound [Mg+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O HQKMJHAJHXVSDF-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- NCYCYZXNIZJOKI-OVSJKPMPSA-N Retinaldehyde Chemical compound O=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C NCYCYZXNIZJOKI-OVSJKPMPSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- FPAFDBFIGPHWGO-UHFFFAOYSA-N dioxosilane;oxomagnesium;hydrate Chemical compound O.[Mg]=O.[Mg]=O.[Mg]=O.O=[Si]=O.O=[Si]=O.O=[Si]=O.O=[Si]=O FPAFDBFIGPHWGO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 11
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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Abstract
The invention discloses an anti-darkness makeup powder cake and a preparation method thereof, wherein the anti-darkness makeup powder cake comprises powder components and bonding components, and the powder components comprise the following components in parts by weight: 30-40 parts of a retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material, 15-20 parts of pearl powder, 15-25 parts of talcum powder, 10-15 parts of mica powder, 3-5 parts of magnesium stearate and 8-10 parts of a colorant; the adhesive component comprises: 3-5 parts of grape seed oil, 5-8 parts of caprylic capric triglyceride, 5-8 parts of pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, 5-8 parts of squalane and 1-3 parts of perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane. The retinene modified cyclodextrin metal organic framework material is added into the pressed powder, and the porous structure of the material can ensure that the pressed powder has good oil control effect and the make-up holding time of the pressed powder is prolonged; and can continuously release retinene during use, effectively improve the oxidation resistance of the pressed powder, and simultaneously reduce sebum secretion, thereby avoiding the phenomenon of darkness after use.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to an anti-darkness makeup powder cake and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The pressed powder is a solid cosmetic with the functions of covering, adhering, spreading, coloring, decorating and the like, and is commonly used for makeup fixation and makeup supplementation due to the convenience in carrying and using. In the prior art, the pressed powder is generally prepared by mixing and pressing powder raw materials and a binder, wherein the powder raw materials generally comprise powder with oil control effect such as talcum powder, kaolin, zinc oxide, mica and the like and pigment powder such as iron oxide, titanium dioxide and the like, for example, the pressed powder disclosed in patent document with publication number CN109820741A is a pressed powder and a preparation method thereof, the pressed powder comprises a component a and a component B, wherein the component a comprises the following raw materials in parts: 20-30 parts of talcum powder, 44-50 parts of mica powder, 24-28 parts of common flour and 1-2 parts of natural mineral powder; the component B comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 10-40 parts of silica, 5-8 parts of aloe soaking liquid, 3-5 parts of white tea extract, 5-10 parts of allantoin, 1-2 parts of hydroxyethyl urea, 2-5 parts of grape seed oil, 1-3 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-3 parts of tea tree oil, 5-10 parts of hyaluronic acid stock solution, 1-3 parts of glycerol, 5-8 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 3-6 parts of citrus peel extract and 1-3 parts of essence.
However, the powder cake in the prior art has poor oxidation resistance, and is easily oxidized and dark after being applied to the face, so that most of the powder cakes are fair, fine and smooth and fitting when just applying to the face, but the back of the powder cake is yellow and gray, and the attractiveness and the durability of the makeup effect are influenced; if more antioxidant is added into the pressed powder, the skin is easily irritated and damaged, and the skin burden is increased.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides an anti-darkness makeup holding powder cake and a preparation method thereof, aiming at overcoming the problems that the powder cake in the prior art has poor oxidation resistance, is easy to oxidize and darkness after being applied to the face and affects the beauty of the makeup face and the persistence of the makeup effect; and the pressed powder can continuously release retinal in the using process, so that the oxidation resistance of the pressed powder is effectively improved, and sebum secretion can be reduced, thereby avoiding the phenomenon of skin darkness after use.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the anti-darkness makeup powder cake comprises powder components and bonding components, wherein the powder components comprise the following components in parts by weight: 30-40 parts of a retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material, 15-20 parts of pearl powder, 15-25 parts of talcum powder, 10-15 parts of mica powder, 3-5 parts of magnesium stearate and 8-10 parts of a colorant; the adhesive component includes: 3-5 parts of grape seed oil, 5-8 parts of caprylic capric triglyceride, 5-8 parts of pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, 5-8 parts of squalane and 1-3 parts of perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane.
According to the invention, the retinene-modified cyclodextrin metal organic framework material is added into the pressed powder as a powder component, and the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material is a porous cubic crystal material and has ultrahigh specific surface area and porosity, so that the material has stronger adsorption performance, can effectively adsorb grease secreted by skin after being applied to the face, enables the pressed powder to have a good oil control effect, and prolongs the make-up holding time of the pressed powder; the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material has good adhesion to skin, and powder floating and makeup removal are not easy to occur after the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material is used; meanwhile, retinene is modified on the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material, and is continuously released in the use process of the pressed powder by utilizing an acetal bond formed between the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material and the retinene, so that the retinene has good oxidation resistance and can inhibit the secretion of skin grease, thereby effectively avoiding the skin darkness phenomenon caused by the oxidation of pressed powder components and the grease, and ensuring the beauty of the cosmetic and the durability of the cosmetic effect; besides, the retinene also has the effects of inhibiting melanin synthesis, reducing pigmentation and preventing skin photoaging, so that the pressed powder has the effects of resisting wrinkles, tendering skin and whitening skin. The invention modifies the retinal on the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material, improves the storage stability of the retinal, can avoid the retinal from being oxidized and losing efficacy in the storage process, can slowly release the retinal, and can avoid the stimulation of the skin caused by the contact of a large amount of the retinal with the skin.
In the pressed powder, the pearl powder can improve the luster of the face, and has the effects of detoxifying, promoting tissue regeneration, nourishing and moistening skin, inhibiting brown pigment, whitening, removing wrinkles, maintaining beauty and keeping young; the magnesium stearate powder is fine and smooth, has the advantages of comfortable smoothness and good skin fitness after being used, and has good covering effect; the colorant can make the powder cake have good effects of concealing blemishes and decorating skin color; in the bonding component, the grape seed oil has the effect of removing free radicals, and can improve skin aging problems such as dry skin, color spots, roughness, sensitivity and the like caused by the generation of free radicals, so that the pressed powder has the effects of moisturizing, whitening and resisting aging; the caprylic/capric triglyceride, the pentaerythritol tetraisostearate and the squalane can ensure that the pressed powder has good spreadability and skin affinity, so that the pressed powder is fresh and moist and has good make-up keeping effect.
Therefore, the powder cake has good concealing effect and can conceal pores and fine lines; has good moisture keeping and cosmetic effects, is not easy to block powder, float powder and dark, and has effects of whitening skin, resisting wrinkle and resisting aging.
Preferably, the colorant is selected from one or more of colorant CI 77891, colorant CI 77492, colorant CI 77499, and colorant CI 77491.
Preferably, the preparation method of the retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material comprises the following steps:
A) dissolving gamma-cyclodextrin and KOH in water to prepare reaction mother liquor, adding methanol into the reaction mother liquor, uniformly mixing, heating to 50-60 ℃, and stirring for reacting for 5-6 hours; cooling to room temperature, adding hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, uniformly mixing, standing for 3-5 h, and separating, washing and drying a product to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
B) adding the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into an ethanol solution of glacial acetic acid, stirring for reaction, separating, washing and drying a product to obtain a neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
C) adding the neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into an ethanol solution of phosphoric acid, uniformly dispersing, soaking for 18-36 h, filtering and drying to obtain a phosphoric acid-loaded cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
D) dispersing the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid in ethanol, adding retinene, uniformly stirring, reacting at 60-70 ℃ for 18-24 h, separating and drying a product to obtain the retinene modified cyclodextrin metal organic framework material.
The preparation process of the retinaldehyde modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material of the invention comprises the step A) of utilizing gamma-cyclodextrin and K+Obtaining a cyclodextrin metal organic framework material with a porous structure by coordination self-assembly; due to K+The preparation method is introduced by KOH, and the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material prepared in the step A) is strong in alkalinity and easy to cause irritation and damage to skin, so that the powder cake is neutralized and modified by acetic acid in the step B), and is mild and non-irritant to skin when in use; then, through the step C), loading phosphoric acid on the neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material; finally, in step D), the retinal is connected to the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material through an acetal structure by utilizing the acetalization reaction of the retinal and hydroxyl on the gamma-cyclodextrin. Phosphoric acid supported on cyclodextrin metal-organic framework materials can be used in step D) for the reaction of retinal with the hydroxyl groups on gamma-cyclodextrinThe acetalization reaction plays a catalytic role; on the other hand, since the acetal structure is unstable and easily decomposed under acidic conditions and the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material has strong hygroscopicity, when the compact is applied to the face and absorbs sweat and moisture in the air, phosphoric acid loaded on the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material can provide an acidic environment to break acetal bonds, thereby slowly releasing retinal and having effects of inhibiting sebum secretion, resisting oxidation and the like.
The invention connects the retinene on the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material through an acetal structure, improves the storage stability of the material, enables the material to be effectively released in an acid environment provided by phosphoric acid after the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material absorbs moisture, realizes the controlled release of the retinene, prolongs the action time of the retinene and reduces the stimulation of the retinene to the skin.
Preferably, the molar ratio of the gamma-cyclodextrin to the KOH in the reaction mother liquor in the step A) is 1: 8-8.5; the concentration of gamma-cyclodextrin in the reaction mother liquor is 30-35 mg/mL, and the volume ratio of the added methanol to the reaction mother liquor is 1: 8-12; the concentration of the added hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide in the system is 7-9 mg/mL.
Preferably, the volume ratio of the glacial acetic acid to the ethanol in the glacial acetic acid ethanol solution in the step B) is 1: 10-20, and the mass volume ratio of the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the glacial acetic acid ethanol solution is 1g: 10-20 mL; stirring and reacting for 1-3 h.
Preferably, the concentration of the phosphoric acid ethanol solution in the step C) is 0.4-0.6 mol/L, and the mass-to-volume ratio of the neutralized cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material to the phosphoric acid ethanol solution is 1g: 8-10 mL.
Preferably, the mass ratio of the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid to the retinal in the step D) is 8-10: 1.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the anti-darkness makeup powder cake, which comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing the powder component and the bonding component according to a proportion respectively and stirring uniformly;
(2) spraying the bonding component into the powder component under stirring, and continuously stirring and uniformly mixing;
(3) and filling the mixed materials and pressing and forming to obtain the pressed powder.
Preferably, the stirring speed in the step (2) is 1000-1500 r/min, and the stirring and mixing time is 3-5 min.
Preferably, the pressure during the compression molding in the step (3) is 20-40 MPa, and the compression time is 6-8 s.
Therefore, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
(1) the powder cake is added with the retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal organic framework material as a powder component, and the porous structure and the large specific surface area of the powder cake can ensure that the powder cake has good oil control effect and the make-up holding time of the powder cake is prolonged; the pressed powder can continuously release retinal in the using process, so that the oxidation resistance of the pressed powder is effectively improved, and sebum secretion can be reduced, thereby avoiding the phenomenon of skin darkness after use;
(2) under the combined action of the powder component and the bonding component, the coating has good effect of concealing flaws and can conceal pores and fine lines; has good moisture keeping and cosmetic effects, is not easy to block powder, float powder and dark, and has effects of whitening skin, resisting wrinkle and resisting aging.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described with reference to specific embodiments.
In the present invention, all the equipment and materials are commercially available or commonly used in the art, and the methods in the following examples are conventional in the art unless otherwise specified.
Example 1:
the anti-darkness makeup powder cake comprises powder components and bonding components, wherein the powder components comprise the following components in parts by weight: 35 parts of retinene modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material, 18 parts of pearl powder, 20 parts of talcum powder, 12 parts of mica powder, 4 parts of magnesium stearate, 8 parts of a colorant CI 77891, 0.6 part of a colorant CI 77492 and 0.4 part of a colorant CI 77491; the adhesive component comprises: 4 parts of grape seed oil, 6 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 6 parts of pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, 6 parts of squalane and 2 parts of perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane.
The preparation method of the retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material comprises the following steps:
A) dissolving gamma-cyclodextrin and KOH with the molar ratio of 1:8.1 in water to prepare reaction mother liquor with the concentration of the gamma-cyclodextrin being 32 mg/mL; adding methanol into the reaction mother liquor in a volume ratio of 1:10, oscillating, mixing uniformly, heating to 55 ℃, and stirring for reaction for 5.5 hours; cooling to room temperature, adding hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide to enable the concentration of the hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide in the system to be 8mg/mL, stirring and mixing uniformly, standing for 4 hours, and separating, washing and drying the product to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
B) adding the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into a glacial acetic acid ethanol solution with the volume ratio of glacial acetic acid to ethanol being 1:15, wherein the mass volume ratio of the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the glacial acetic acid ethanol solution is 1g:15mL, stirring for reacting for 2h, and separating, washing and drying a product to obtain a neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
C) adding the neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into an ethanol solution of phosphoric acid with the concentration of 0.5mol/L, wherein the mass-volume ratio of the neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the ethanol solution of phosphoric acid is 1g:9mL, uniformly dispersing, soaking for 24h, filtering and drying to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid;
D) dispersing the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid in ethanol, wherein the mass volume ratio of the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid to the ethanol is 1g:20mL, then adding retinal with the mass ratio of the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid of 1:9, stirring uniformly, heating to 65 ℃, reacting for 20h, separating and drying the product to obtain the retinal modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material.
The preparation method of the pressed powder comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing the powder component and the bonding component according to a proportion respectively and stirring uniformly;
(2) spraying the bonding component into the powder component by using an oil spraying tank under the stirring state at the rotating speed of 1200r/min, and continuously stirring and mixing for 4min at the same rotating speed;
(3) and filling the mixed materials into an aluminum disc, and performing compression molding by using a powder pressing machine to obtain the pressed powder, wherein the pressure during compression molding is 30MPa, and the compression time is 7 s.
Example 2:
the anti-darkness makeup powder cake comprises powder components and bonding components, wherein the powder components comprise the following components in parts by weight: 30 parts of retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material, 15 parts of pearl powder, 15 parts of talcum powder, 10 parts of mica powder, 3 parts of magnesium stearate, 7 parts of a colorant CI 77891, 0.6 part of a colorant CI 77492 and 0.4 part of a colorant CI 77491; the adhesive component comprises: 3 parts of grape seed oil, 5 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 5 parts of pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, 5 parts of squalane and 1 part of perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane.
The preparation method of the retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material comprises the following steps:
A) dissolving gamma-cyclodextrin and KOH with the molar ratio of 1:8 in water to prepare reaction mother liquor with the concentration of the gamma-cyclodextrin being 30 mg/mL; adding methanol with the volume ratio of 1:8 to the reaction mother liquor, oscillating, mixing uniformly, heating to 50 ℃, and stirring for reaction for 6 hours; cooling to room temperature, adding hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide to enable the concentration of the hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide in the system to be 7mg/mL, stirring and mixing uniformly, standing for 3h, and separating, washing and drying the product to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
B) adding the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into a glacial acetic acid ethanol solution with the volume ratio of glacial acetic acid to ethanol being 1:10, wherein the mass volume ratio of the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the glacial acetic acid ethanol solution is 1g:20mL, stirring for reacting for 1h, and separating, washing and drying a product to obtain a neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
C) adding the neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into an ethanol solution of phosphoric acid with the concentration of 0.4mol/L, wherein the mass-volume ratio of the neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the ethanol solution of phosphoric acid is 1g:10mL, uniformly dispersing, soaking for 18h, filtering and drying to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid;
D) dispersing the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid in ethanol, wherein the mass volume ratio of the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid to the ethanol is 1g:20mL, then adding retinal with the mass ratio of the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid of 1:8, stirring uniformly, heating to 60 ℃, reacting for 24h, separating and drying the product to obtain the retinal modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material.
The preparation method of the pressed powder comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing the powder component and the bonding component according to a proportion respectively and stirring uniformly;
(2) spraying the bonding component into the powder component by using an oil spraying tank under the stirring state at the rotating speed of 1000r/min, and continuously stirring and mixing for 5min at the same rotating speed;
(3) and filling the mixed materials into an aluminum disc, and performing compression molding by using a powder pressing machine to obtain the pressed powder, wherein the pressure during compression molding is 20MPa, and the compression time is 8 s.
Example 3:
the anti-darkness makeup powder cake comprises powder components and bonding components, wherein the powder components comprise the following components in parts by weight: 40 parts of retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material, 20 parts of pearl powder, 25 parts of talcum powder, 15 parts of mica powder, 5 parts of magnesium stearate, 9 parts of a colorant CI 77891, 0.6 part of a colorant CI 77492 and 0.4 part of a colorant CI 77491; the adhesive component comprises: 5 parts of grape seed oil, 8 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 8 parts of pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, 8 parts of squalane and 3 parts of perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane.
The preparation method of the retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material comprises the following steps:
A) dissolving gamma-cyclodextrin and KOH with the molar ratio of 1:8.5 in water to prepare reaction mother liquor with the concentration of the gamma-cyclodextrin being 35 mg/mL; adding methanol with the volume ratio of 1:12 to the reaction mother liquor, oscillating, mixing uniformly, heating to 60 ℃, and stirring for reaction for 5 hours; cooling to room temperature, adding hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide to enable the concentration of the hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide in the system to be 9mg/mL, stirring and mixing uniformly, standing for 5 hours, and separating, washing and drying the product to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
B) adding the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into a glacial acetic acid ethanol solution with the volume ratio of glacial acetic acid to ethanol being 1:20, wherein the mass volume ratio of the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the glacial acetic acid ethanol solution is 1g:10mL, stirring for reacting for 3h, and separating, washing and drying a product to obtain a neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
C) adding the neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into an ethanol solution of phosphoric acid with the concentration of 0.6mol/L, wherein the mass-volume ratio of the neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the ethanol solution of phosphoric acid is 1g:8mL, uniformly dispersing, soaking for 36h, filtering and drying to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid;
D) dispersing the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid in ethanol, wherein the mass volume ratio of the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid to the ethanol is 1g:20mL, then adding retinal with the mass ratio of the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid of 1:10, stirring uniformly, heating to 70 ℃, reacting for 18h, separating and drying the product to obtain the retinal modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material.
The preparation method of the pressed powder comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing the powder component and the bonding component according to a proportion respectively and stirring uniformly;
(2) spraying the bonding component into the powder component by using an oil spraying tank under the stirring state at the rotating speed of 1500r/min, and continuously stirring and mixing for 3min at the same rotating speed;
(3) and filling the mixed materials into an aluminum disc, and performing compression molding by using a powder pressing machine to obtain the pressed powder, wherein the pressure during compression molding is 40MPa, and the compression time is 6 s.
Comparative example 1 (without refining the cyclodextrin into a cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material):
the pressed powder comprises a powder component and a bonding component, wherein the powder component comprises the following components in parts by weight: 35 parts of retinal-modified cyclodextrin, 18 parts of pearl powder, 20 parts of talcum powder, 12 parts of mica powder, 4 parts of magnesium stearate, 8 parts of a colorant CI 77891, 0.6 part of a colorant CI 77492 and 0.4 part of a colorant CI 77491; the adhesive component comprises: 4 parts of grape seed oil, 6 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 6 parts of pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, 6 parts of squalane and 2 parts of perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane.
The preparation method of the retinal-modified cyclodextrin comprises the following steps:
A) adding gamma-cyclodextrin into a phosphoric acid ethanol solution with the concentration of 0.5mol/L, wherein the mass volume ratio of the gamma-cyclodextrin to the phosphoric acid ethanol solution is 1g:9mL, uniformly dispersing, soaking for 24h, filtering and drying to obtain phosphoric acid-loaded gamma-cyclodextrin;
B) dispersing gamma-cyclodextrin loaded with phosphoric acid into ethanol, wherein the mass-volume ratio of the gamma-cyclodextrin loaded with the phosphoric acid to the ethanol is 1g:20mL, then adding retinal with the mass ratio of the gamma-cyclodextrin loaded with the phosphoric acid being 1:9, stirring uniformly, heating to 65 ℃, reacting for 20h, separating and drying the product to obtain the retinal modified cyclodextrin.
The rest is the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 2 (no retinal attached to cyclodextrin metal organic framework material):
the pressed powder comprises a powder component and a bonding component, wherein the powder component comprises the following components in parts by weight: 35 parts of modified cyclodextrin metal organic framework material, 18 parts of pearl powder, 20 parts of talcum powder, 12 parts of mica powder, 4 parts of magnesium stearate, 8 parts of colorant CI 77891, 0.6 part of colorant CI 77492 and 0.4 part of colorant CI 77491; the adhesive component comprises: 4 parts of grape seed oil, 6 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 6 parts of pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, 6 parts of squalane and 2 parts of perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane.
The preparation method of the modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material comprises the following steps:
A) dissolving gamma-cyclodextrin and KOH with the molar ratio of 1:8.1 in water to prepare reaction mother liquor with the concentration of the gamma-cyclodextrin being 32 mg/mL; adding methanol into the reaction mother liquor in a volume ratio of 1:10, oscillating, mixing uniformly, heating to 55 ℃, and stirring for reaction for 5.5 hours; cooling to room temperature, adding hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide to enable the concentration of the hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide in the system to be 8mg/mL, stirring and mixing uniformly, standing for 4 hours, and separating, washing and drying the product to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
B) adding the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into a glacial acetic acid ethanol solution with the volume ratio of glacial acetic acid to ethanol being 1:15, wherein the mass volume ratio of the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the glacial acetic acid ethanol solution is 1g:15mL, stirring for reacting for 2h, and separating, washing and drying a product to obtain the medium modified cyclodextrin metal organic framework material.
The rest is the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 3 (no phosphoric acid loading in cyclodextrin metal organic framework material):
the preparation method of the retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material in the comparative example 3 comprises the following steps:
A) dissolving gamma-cyclodextrin and KOH with the molar ratio of 1:8.1 in water to prepare reaction mother liquor with the concentration of the gamma-cyclodextrin being 32 mg/mL; adding methanol into the reaction mother liquor in a volume ratio of 1:10, oscillating, mixing uniformly, heating to 55 ℃, and stirring for reaction for 5.5 hours; cooling to room temperature, adding hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide to enable the concentration of the hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide in the system to be 8mg/mL, stirring and mixing uniformly, standing for 4 hours, and separating, washing and drying the product to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
B) adding the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into a glacial acetic acid ethanol solution with the volume ratio of glacial acetic acid to ethanol being 1:15, wherein the mass volume ratio of the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the glacial acetic acid ethanol solution is 1g:15mL, stirring for reacting for 2h, and separating, washing and drying a product to obtain a neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
C) dispersing the neutralized cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material in ethanol, wherein the mass-volume ratio of the neutralized cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material to the ethanol is 1g:20mL, then adding retinal with the mass ratio of the neutralized cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material to the ethanol is 1:9, stirring uniformly, heating to 65 ℃, reacting for 20h, separating and drying the product to obtain the retinal modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material.
The rest is the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 4 (retinal is not attached via an acetal linkage):
the preparation method of the retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material in the comparative example 4 comprises the following steps:
A) dissolving gamma-cyclodextrin and KOH with the molar ratio of 1:8.1 in water to prepare reaction mother liquor with the concentration of the gamma-cyclodextrin being 32 mg/mL; adding methanol into the reaction mother liquor in a volume ratio of 1:10, oscillating, mixing uniformly, heating to 55 ℃, and stirring for reaction for 5.5 hours; cooling to room temperature, adding hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide to enable the concentration of the hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide in the system to be 8mg/mL, stirring and mixing uniformly, standing for 4 hours, and separating, washing and drying the product to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
B) adding the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into a glacial acetic acid ethanol solution with the volume ratio of glacial acetic acid to ethanol being 1:15, wherein the mass volume ratio of the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the glacial acetic acid ethanol solution is 1g:15mL, stirring for reacting for 2h, and separating, washing and drying a product to obtain a neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
C) adding the neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into an ethanol solution of phosphoric acid with the concentration of 0.5mol/L, wherein the mass-volume ratio of the neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the ethanol solution of phosphoric acid is 1g:9mL, uniformly dispersing, soaking for 24h, filtering and drying to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid;
D) dispersing the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid in an ethanol solution of retinal, wherein the mass-volume ratio of the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid to the retinal to the ethanol is 9g:1g:180mL, stirring and reacting for 20h after uniform dispersion, and separating and drying the product to obtain the retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal organic framework material.
The rest is the same as in example 1.
Comparative example 5 (retinal direct blend):
the anti-darkness makeup powder cake comprises powder components and bonding components, wherein the powder components comprise the following components in parts by weight: 35 parts of modified cyclodextrin metal organic framework material, 3.5 parts of retinal, 18 parts of pearl powder, 20 parts of talcum powder, 12 parts of mica powder, 4 parts of magnesium stearate, 8 parts of colorant CI 77891, 0.6 part of colorant CI 77492 and 0.4 part of colorant CI 77491; the adhesive component comprises: 4 parts of grape seed oil, 6 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 6 parts of pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, 6 parts of squalane and 2 parts of perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane.
The preparation method of the modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material comprises the following steps:
A) dissolving gamma-cyclodextrin and KOH with the molar ratio of 1:8.1 in water to prepare reaction mother liquor with the concentration of the gamma-cyclodextrin being 32 mg/mL; adding methanol into the reaction mother liquor in a volume ratio of 1:10, oscillating, mixing uniformly, heating to 55 ℃, and stirring for reaction for 5.5 hours; cooling to room temperature, adding hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide to enable the concentration of the hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide in the system to be 8mg/mL, stirring and mixing uniformly, standing for 4 hours, and separating, washing and drying the product to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
B) adding the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into a glacial acetic acid ethanol solution with the volume ratio of glacial acetic acid to ethanol being 1:15, wherein the mass volume ratio of the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the glacial acetic acid ethanol solution is 1g:15mL, stirring for reacting for 2h, and separating, washing and drying a product to obtain the modified cyclodextrin metal organic framework material.
The rest is the same as in example 1.
The storage stability and release property of retinal in the pressed powders obtained in the above examples and comparative examples were measured, and the results are shown in table 1. The test method comprises the following steps: the pressed powders obtained in each example and comparative example were placed in an incubator at 37 ℃ for 6 months, 1g of each sample was taken every 2 months, dissolved in 15mL of a mixed solvent of water and ethanol (volume ratio 7:3) for 20min, and the retinal content in the solution was measured by high performance liquid chromatography.
Table 1: results of the storage stability and release of retinal and rose essential oils.
The respective use properties of the pressed powders obtained in the above examples and comparative examples were measured, and the results are shown in table 2. The evaluation method of each performance comprises the following steps: 120 female subjects with the age of 25-45 years are selected and divided into 6 groups of 20 persons, the pressed powder in the example 1 and the pressed powder in the comparative examples 1-5 are respectively used in each group, and the use method is as follows: 8 o' clock before basic skin care, then dip the powder puff into the powder cake and smear the whole face in a pressing way.
The wrinkle-removing and spot-fading effect evaluation method comprises the following steps: the surface area of wrinkles and the area of spots on the face of the subject were measured using a VisioFace facial image analyzer before use and after the three-month test period was completed, respectively, and the wrinkle removal rate and the spot lightening rate were calculated and averaged.
The rest performances are the average value of the scoring results of the subjects, each full performance score is 10, and the higher the score is, the better the corresponding performance is.
Table 2: and (5) testing the service performance of the pressed powder.
| Item | Example 1 | Comparative example 1 | Comparative example 2 | Comparative example 3 | Comparative example 4 | Comparative example 5 |
| Concealer effect (fen)) | 6.8 | 6.5 | 6.6 | 6.9 | 6.3 | 6.5 |
| Pore invisible effect (fen) | 7.5 | 6.6 | 7.2 | 7.7 | 7.4 | 7.0 |
| Oil control effect (minute) | 9.2 | 5.4 | 7.1 | 7.3 | 7.0 | 6.8 |
| Make-up effect (minute) | 8.8 | 4.1 | 7.5 | 7.8 | 7.2 | 7.3 |
| 8h anti-darkness effect (fen) | 9.0 | 6.3 | 6.7 | 7.5 | 7.1 | 7.2 |
| Irritation (fen) | 2.7 | 2.5 | 2.2 | 2.1 | 2.9 | 5.2 |
| Wrinkle removal Rate (%) | 26.4 | 13.6 | 11.3 | 12.5 | 14.1 | 10.8 |
| Spot-fading rate (%) | 18.7 | 10.7 | 9.1 | 9.7 | 10.2 | 9.4 |
As can be seen from tables 1 and 2, the pressed powder prepared by the raw materials and the method in the invention in examples 1-3 has no obvious decrease of retinene concentration after 6 months of storage and good storage stability; after the face cream is applied to the face, the face cream has good effects of concealing blemishes, controlling oil, removing wrinkles and fading spots, is mild and non-irritant, has good make-up holding capacity, and does not generate darkness after 8 hours of make-up.
In contrast to comparative example 1, which does not contain cyclodextrin and K+The metal organic frame material is prepared by directly carrying out an acetalization reaction by cyclodextrin and retinal,the porous metal organic framework material is not used, the oil control effect of the pressed powder is obviously reduced, the sticky feeling of the pressed powder coated on the face is enhanced, and the make-up holding capacity is reduced; and the amount of retinal released in solution was also significantly reduced compared to example 1, the cake had reduced capacity for preventing darkness and wrinkle and spotting, probably because phosphoric acid was difficult to effectively load on cyclodextrin when the impregnation reaction was carried out directly with cyclodextrin and phosphoric acid, the subsequent aldolization reaction was not catalyzed, there was less retinal attached to cyclodextrin, and there was no subsequent phosphoric acid to provide acidic conditions for the cleavage of the acetal bond, thus greatly reducing the amount of retinal released.
In comparative example 2, no retinal was attached to the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material, the oil control and makeup retention of the compact was reduced, skin darkening occurred within 8 hours of makeup with makeup, and wrinkle removal and spot lightening were also reduced.
In comparative example 3, phosphoric acid is not loaded on the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material, the acetal reaction cannot be catalyzed, and an acidic condition cannot be provided for the cleavage of the acetal bond, so that retinene which can be connected on the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material and effectively released is greatly reduced, and the performance of oil control, make-up holding, darkness prevention and the like of the pressed powder is reduced.
In comparative example 4, the retinal is not connected to the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material through an acetal reaction, but is directly loaded on the surface of the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material through an adsorption method, and the release of the retinal cannot be effectively controlled; as can be seen from Table 1, the amount of retinal released after 20 minutes of dissolution of the compact in the solvent was small, and thus the oil-controlling, makeup-sustaining and anti-darkening properties of the compact were remarkably reduced as compared with those of example 1.
In the comparative example 5, the retinene is directly used as a powder component to be blended with other components without being modified on the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material, so that the retinene has more oxidation loss in the storage process and poor storage stability; and a large amount of retinal is directly contacted with the skin, so that a large amount of photooxidation is generated on the surface of the skin, and the irritation of the pressed powder to the skin is improved.
Claims (10)
1. The anti-darkness makeup powder cake is characterized by comprising powder components and bonding components, wherein the powder components comprise the following components in parts by weight: 30-40 parts of a retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material, 15-20 parts of pearl powder, 15-25 parts of talcum powder, 10-15 parts of mica powder, 3-5 parts of magnesium stearate and 8-10 parts of a colorant; the adhesive component includes: 3-5 parts of grape seed oil, 5-8 parts of caprylic capric triglyceride, 5-8 parts of pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, 5-8 parts of squalane and 1-3 parts of perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane.
2. The anti-darkening makeup powder cake according to claim 1, wherein the coloring agent is one or more selected from the group consisting of a coloring agent CI 77891, a coloring agent CI 77492, a coloring agent CI 77499, and a coloring agent CI 77491.
3. The anti-darkening cosmetic powder compact of claim 1, wherein the retinal-modified cyclodextrin metal organic framework material is prepared by:
A) dissolving gamma-cyclodextrin and KOH in water to prepare reaction mother liquor, adding methanol into the reaction mother liquor, uniformly mixing, heating to 50-60 ℃, and stirring for reacting for 5-6 hours; cooling to room temperature, adding hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, uniformly mixing, standing for 3-5 h, and separating, washing and drying a product to obtain the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
B) adding the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into an ethanol solution of glacial acetic acid, stirring for reaction, separating, washing and drying a product to obtain a neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
C) adding the neutralized cyclodextrin metal organic framework material into an ethanol solution of phosphoric acid, uniformly dispersing, soaking for 18-36 h, filtering and drying to obtain a phosphoric acid-loaded cyclodextrin metal organic framework material;
D) dispersing the cyclodextrin metal organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid in ethanol, adding retinene, uniformly stirring, reacting at 60-70 ℃ for 18-24 h, separating and drying a product to obtain the retinene modified cyclodextrin metal organic framework material.
4. The anti-darkening makeup-sustaining powder cake as claimed in claim 3, wherein the molar ratio of the gamma-cyclodextrin to the KOH in the reaction mother liquor in the step A) is 1: 8-8.5; the concentration of gamma-cyclodextrin in the reaction mother liquor is 30-35 mg/mL, and the volume ratio of the added methanol to the reaction mother liquor is 1: 8-12; the concentration of the added hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide in the system is 7-9 mg/mL.
5. The anti-darkness sustained makeup powder cake according to claim 3, characterized in that the volume ratio of glacial acetic acid to ethanol in the ethanol solution of glacial acetic acid in step B) is 1: 10-20, and the mass volume ratio of cyclodextrin metal organic framework material to the ethanol solution of glacial acetic acid is 1g: 10-20 mL; stirring and reacting for 1-3 h.
6. The anti-darkening makeup powder cake according to claim 3, wherein the concentration of the phosphoric acid ethanol solution in the step C) is 0.4-0.6 mol/L, and the mass-volume ratio of the neutralized cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material to the phosphoric acid ethanol solution is 1g: 8-10 mL.
7. The anti-darkening makeup powder cake according to claim 3, wherein the mass ratio of the cyclodextrin metal-organic framework material loaded with phosphoric acid to the retinal in the step D) is 8-10: 1.
8. A method for preparing the anti-darkness sustained makeup powder cake according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) mixing the powder component and the bonding component according to a proportion respectively and stirring uniformly;
(2) spraying the bonding component into the powder component under stirring, and continuously stirring and uniformly mixing;
(3) and filling the mixed materials and pressing and forming to obtain the pressed powder.
9. The method for preparing the darkness-proof make-up powder cake according to claim 8, wherein the stirring speed in the step (2) is 1000-1500 r/min, and the stirring and mixing time is 3-5 min.
10. The preparation method of the darkness-proof make-up powder cake according to claim 8, wherein the pressure during the pressing and forming in the step (3) is 20-40 MPa, and the pressing time is 6-8 s.
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