CN113230167A - 一种美白组合物、亮肤水及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种美白组合物、亮肤水及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN113230167A CN113230167A CN202110479884.3A CN202110479884A CN113230167A CN 113230167 A CN113230167 A CN 113230167A CN 202110479884 A CN202110479884 A CN 202110479884A CN 113230167 A CN113230167 A CN 113230167A
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- extract
- skin
- berberis
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- melanin
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Abstract
本申请属于日化领域,具体提供了一种美白组合物、亮肤水及其制备方法。本申请提供的抑制黑色素生成的组合物,包含冬青叶小檗提取物和烟酰胺。本申请的抑制黑色素生成的组合物利用冬青叶小檗提取物和烟酰胺搭配,具有协同增效作用,能够很好的抑制黑色素的生成。应用所述抑制黑色素生成的组合物制备的亮肤水能够减少黑色素的生成、起到美白的作用,还可以增加角质层水分含量,阻挡皮肤深层的水分流失。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及日化领域,具体涉及一种美白组合物、亮肤水及其制备方法。
背景技术
黑色素(Melanin)主要由人体皮肤表皮基底层的黑色素细胞(Melanocyte)产生,它能减小紫外线对皮肤的伤害。黑色素的含量及分布决定了皮肤的颜色。然而,黑色素在基底层的异常蓄积会造成色素沉着过度引起黑斑病、雀斑、老年斑等,影响人们的生活质量。随着对黑色素生物合成研究的不断深入,研究者发现酪氨酸酶在黑色素生物合成中扮演重要角色,它是酪氨酸和多巴向黑色素转变过程中的主要限速酶,它的过量表达是导致色素沉着过度的重要原因。因此,抑制酪氨酸酶的活性可以有效阻断黑色素的生物合成反应链,减少黑色素的生成,实现美白的效果。
针对黑色素生成的途径和影响因素,皮肤美白和皮肤护理的主要途径包括以下几个方面:(1)通过抑制皮肤黑色素细胞增殖,减少黑色素细胞生成的数量;(2)通过抑制皮肤黑色素生成的关键酶-酪氨酸酶的催化活性,降低黑色素的生物合成,达到美白的目的;(3)通过防晒,防止阳光中紫外线对皮肤的伤害(晒黑和晒伤),减缓皮肤老化;(4) 是通过使用抗氧化剂去除皮肤中的氧自由基,减缓黑色素生成和减缓皮肤老化。
现有技术中,为了防止皮肤变黑、斑点、雀斑等,保持皮肤本来的洁白,人们提出了混合有氢醌、曲酸、熊果苷等各种美白剂的美白化妆品。可是,如果大量混合这些物质,有时在使用感和安全性上产生问题。如氢醌对皮肤的刺激性非常大;曲酸易变色且对皮肤也有一定的刺激性;熊果苷作用单一和效果不佳等等。
随着人们对皮肤结构和功能认识的提高,发现有更多的因素影响皮肤黑色素的生成。有研究发现真皮层神经末梢释放的去甲肾上腺素,会参与黑色素细胞增殖和分化的调节,去甲肾上腺素浓度的改变也会导致皮肤色素异常。因此开发具有安全稳定、效果明显,并且具有协同互补功效的高性价比美白组合物,具有非常好的发展前景。
发明内容
一方面,本申请提供了冬青叶小檗提取物在制备抑制黑色素生成的护肤品方面的用途。
一方面,本申请提供了一种抑制黑色素生成的组合物,包含
冬青叶小檗提取物,和
烟酰胺,
其中,所述冬青叶小檗提取物与烟酰胺的质量比为1:1-99。
在一些实施方案中,所述冬青叶小檗提取物与所述烟酰胺的质量比为1:2~20,更优选 1:3~15,进一步优选为1:4~10。
本发明的发明人发现,冬青叶小檗提取物对黑色素细胞肾上腺素受体具有优异的抑制作用,抑制率会随着冬青叶小檗提取物的质量浓度的增加而逐渐变大。
烟酰胺又叫做尼克酰胺或者维生素B3,是烟酸的酰胺化合物,同时它也是辅酶I和辅酶II的等多种辅酶的组成部分,如果缺乏了烟酰胺就会影响肌肤细胞的正常呼吸和代谢,从而会进一步引发各种皮肤病。在临床医学上烟酰胺也经常被用来预防和治疗皮肤病;而现在的护肤品中更是经常看到它的身影。
烟酰胺通过抑制黑色素颗粒向表皮细胞的传递,影响皮肤颜色或在形成色斑阶段发挥重要作用,当有部分黑色素不可避免地达到表层皮肤后,烟酰胺又能通过加速皮肤细胞的更新速度从而促进含有黑色素的细胞脱落。从内到外,实现改善肤质、净白肌肤的效果。
利用冬青叶小檗提取物和烟酰胺搭配,具有协同增效作用,能够很好的抑制皮肤黑色素的生成。
在一些实施方案中,按质量分数计,所述组合物包括
冬青叶小檗提取物1-50%,和
烟酰胺50-99%。
一方面,本申请提供了所述的组合物在制备护肤品方面的用途。在一些实施方案中,所述护肤品选自面霜、精华、乳液、亮肤水中的至少一种。
在一些实施方案中,所述冬青叶小檗提取物的制备方法包括以下步骤:
S1:将冬青叶小檗原料粉碎;
S2:将粉碎后的冬青叶小檗原料加入至提取罐中,利用水和醇进行提取,所述冬青叶小檗原料、水以及醇的质量比为1:0.05-5:0.05-5,提取温度为50-80℃,提取1-5次,提取时间为1-5小时,获得冬青叶小檗粗提液;
S3:将获得的冬青叶小檗粗提液过滤,并经过外循环罐、沉降罐进行浓缩并进行冷冻干燥,过80-100目筛网后,溶解于50%丁二醇水溶液,获得冬青叶小檗提取物。
在本发明中,冬青叶小檗原料、水以及醇的质量比为1:0.05-5:0.05-5,优选为1:0.1-4:0.1-4,更优选为1:0.2-2:0.2-4。当冬青叶小檗原料、水以及醇的比例在1:0.05-5:0.05-5的范围内时,所获得的冬青叶小檗提取物的有效成分较高,能够进一步有效抑制黑色素细胞肾上腺素受体。所述醇可以是乙醇、乙二醇、丙醇等。
采用本发明的制备方法,制备获得的冬青叶小檗提取物为棕色液体,以质量计,活性成分在2%以上,重金属含量在20ppm以下,砷含量在2ppm以下,灼烧残渣在1%以下。
所述提取的温度为50-80℃,优选60-70℃。所述提取的次数为1-5次,优选2-4次。所述提取的时间为1-5小时,优选2-4小时。
一方面,本申请提供了一种美白组合物,包括所述的抑制黑色素生成的组合物及促渗剂,所述的抑制黑色素生成的组合物的加入量为0.01-10%;所述促渗透剂的加入量为0.01-10%,所述促渗透剂为双-二乙氧基二甘醇环己烷1,4-二羧酸酯。
在一些实施方案中,以所述美白组合物的总质量计,所述抑制黑色素生成组合物的加入量为0.01-10%,例如:抑制黑色素生成组合物的加入量可以是1%、2%、3%、4%、5%、 6%、7%、9%等。抑制黑色素生成组合物的加入量在0.01-10%之间时,使用美白组合物的皮肤亮度增加。当抑制黑色素生成组合物的加入量小于0.01%时,皮肤亮度改善效果不明显,不能起到美白的作用;当抑制黑色素生成组合物的加入量大于10%时,组合物的含量过高,成本过高,且不能进一步增加美白的作用。
在一些实施方案中,以所述美白组合物的总质量计,所述促渗透剂的加入量为0.01-10%,例如:0.5%、1%、2%、3%、5%、6%、7%、8%等。当促渗透剂的加入量小于0.01%时,促渗透效果不明显。当促渗透剂的加入量大于10%时,不能进一步起到促渗透的作用。
在一些实施方案中,所述组合物还包括保湿剂、增稠剂、增溶剂、皮肤调理剂、舒敏剂、防腐剂和芳香剂中的至少一种。
在一些实施方案中,以所述美白组合物的总质量计,所述保湿剂的加入量为0.01-20%;所述增稠剂的加入量为0.02-0.8%;所述增溶剂的加入量为0.01-0.5%;所述皮肤调理剂的加入量为0.01-5%;所述舒敏剂的加入量为0.01-5%;所述防腐剂的加入量为0.01-1.5%;所述芳香剂的加入量为0.005-0.5%。
在一些实施方案中,以所述美白组合物的总质量计,所述保湿剂的加入量为0.01-20%。当保湿剂的加入量在0.01-20%时,能够起到保湿补水的作用。为了使保湿剂的功效能够进一步发挥,作为优选,本发明的保湿剂的加入量可以是1-19%,可以是4-18%,可以是6-17%,可以是8-16%,可以是10-15%等。当保湿剂的含量低于0.01%时,保湿作用不明显;当保湿剂的含量高于20%时,会使亮肤水有黏腻感。
在一些实施方案中,以所述美白组合物的总质量计,所述增稠剂的加入量为0.02-0.8%。当增稠剂的加入量在0.02-0.8%之间时,具有低粘稠感及优异的使用感,分散性好,吸收快。当增稠剂的加入量小于0.02%时,亮肤水的质地较稀,无任何粘稠感;当增稠剂的加入量大于0.8%时,亮肤水过于厚重,会增加皮肤的负担。
在一些实施方案中,以所述美白组合物的总质量计,所述增溶剂的加入量为0.01-0.5%。在亮肤水中使用增溶剂,会使其肤感较为滑顺。作为优选,所述增溶剂的加入量为0.05-0.4%, 0.08-0.3%等。
在一些实施方案中,以所述美白组合物的总质量计,所述皮肤调理剂的加入量为0.01-5%,例如可以是0.5%、1%、2%、3%、4%等。当皮肤调理剂的加入量小于0.01%时,含量过低,无法起到相应的功效。
在一些实施方案中,以所述美白组合物的总质量计,所述舒敏剂的加入量为0.01-5%,例如可以是0.5%、1%、2%、3%等。当舒敏剂的加入量小于0.01%时,舒敏效果不明显。当舒敏剂的加入量大于5%时,不能进一步起到舒敏的作用,而且成本过高。
在一些实施方案中,所述保湿剂选自括二丙二醇、双丙甘醇、丙二醇、丁二醇、泛醇、甘油、聚乙二醇-32、甘油聚醚-26、透明质酸钠中的至少一种。
在一些实施方案中,所述增稠剂选自丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、羟乙基纤维素、黄原胶、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、卡波姆和丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物中的至少一种。
在一些实施方案中,所述增溶剂选自聚山梨醇酯-20、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油和PPG-26- 丁醇聚醚-26中的至少一种。
在一些实施方案中,所述皮肤调理剂选自巨藻提取物、维生素E、燕麦肽、神经酰胺2、墨角藻提取物、小球藻发酵产物、水解胶原蛋白、水解小麦蛋白、绿藻提取物、褐藻提取物、尿囊素、乳酸杆菌/大豆发酵产物提取物、白果槲寄生叶提取物、白茅根提取物、仙人掌提取物、海藻糖中的至少一种。
其中,巨藻提取物源自于巨藻,巨藻通过巨藻细胞的大量繁殖,提高其高含量的天然植物蛋白。巨藻提取物具有补充细胞营养的功效,有效保湿的作用。
其中,使用神经酰胺2能在完善皮脂膜的同时抑制活跃的皮脂腺分泌,使肌肤水油平衡,增强肌肤的自我保护机能,较适合皮肤油腻且有需求的年轻肌肤。该成分对肌肤保湿修护有良好作用,是角质层中重要的活肤成分,能增强皮肤屏障,重建细胞。
其中,尿囊素可以降低角质层细胞的粘着力,加速表皮细胞更新,增强皮肤的修复能力,并且其安全度高。
其中,燕麦肽是燕麦蛋白的片段和燕麦蛋白的组成部分。燕麦蛋白的功能独特,它的氨基酸种类均衡远胜其它谷物。燕麦蛋白分解后会产生质量较高的小分子肽,极易被皮肤吸收。燕麦肽具有抗氧化、增加肌肤活性、延缓肌肤衰老、保湿、减少皱纹、抗过敏等功效。
其中,水解小麦蛋白中含有氨基酸麦醇溶蛋白(gliadin)和麦谷的蛋白,以及丰富的胱氨酸(cystine)。水解小麦蛋白具有保湿、抗氧化及柔软细化皮肤等多种功效,而且还含有特别的润肤成分,能够改善皱纹。
在一些实施方案中,所述舒敏剂选自北美金缕梅水、洋甘菊提取物、马齿苋提取物、积雪草提取物、姜根提取物,红没药醇,甘草酸二钾中的至少一种。
其中,舒敏剂中的北美金缕梅花水属于高倍浓缩植物原露,具有清淡的药草香,具有控油调理,收敛紧致,收缩毛孔和祛瘀消肿的功效。能够用于肌肤的护理,安抚舒敏剂肌肤。
在一些实施方案中,所述防腐剂选自苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯、氯苯甘醚、苯甲酸及其盐中的至少一种。
在一些实施方案中,本发明的美白组合物还可以适当添加有pH调节剂、抗氧化剂和螯合剂。一般而言,以所述美白组合物的总质量计,所述pH调节剂的加入量为0-1%;所述抗氧化剂的加入量为0-2%;所述螯合剂的加入量为0-1%。所述pH调节剂包括氨甲基丙醇、精氨酸、柠檬酸、柠檬酸钠、氢氧化钠等中的一种或两种以上的组合。所述抗氧化剂可以是维生素E、生育酚乙酸酯、丁羟甲苯、番茄红素等中的一种或两种以上的组合。所述螯合剂可以是EDTA-2Na和/或EDTA-4Na等。
一方面,本申请提供了一种亮肤水,包含以下质量百分比的各物质:
一方面,本申请提供了所述的亮肤水的制备方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
1)将A相加入乳化锅,搅拌并加热到80-85℃,均质5-10min,保温搅拌10-30min后冷却;
2)冷却至30-35℃,加入B相、C相和预溶好的D相、E相搅拌均匀;
3)冷却至30-35℃,出料,静置12-48小时;
4)检验合格后,分装、包装,再检验,成品入库。
本发明的有益效果:
本发明的黑色素生成抑制剂组合物,利用冬青叶小檗提取物和烟酰胺搭配,具有协同增效作用,能够很好的抑制皮肤黑色素的生成。
本发明的美白组合物,包含黑色素生成抑制剂组合物及促渗剂,能够减少黑色素的生成、起到美白的作用,还具有保湿锁水,能够阻挡水分流失,为肌肤营造保湿屏障。同时,本发明的亮肤水对肌肤产生修护作用,活化肌肤的机能。
本发明所提供的亮肤水的制备方法,操作简单,可用于大规模生产。
附图说明
图1为冬青叶小檗提取物的样品浓度-细胞活力关系图,其中样品浓度为冬青叶小檗提取物的质量浓度;
图2为不同浓度冬青叶小檗提取物对黑色素细胞去甲肾上腺素受体抑制的对比图;
图3为实施例13-17的3D黑素皮肤模型亮度提升的对比图;
图4为本发明应用实施例1-5以及应用对比例1-2的皮肤黑色素含量变化率的对比图。
具体实施方式
下面将结合实施例对本发明的实施方案进行详细描述,但是本领域技术人员将会理解,下列实施例仅用于说明本发明,而不应视为限定本发明的范围。实施例中未注明具体条件者,按照常规条件或制造商建议的条件进行。所用试剂或仪器未注明生产厂商者,均为可以通过市购获得的常规产品。
在本发明实施例/对比例中,所应用的冬青叶小檗提取物的制备方法为:
将冬青叶小檗原料粉碎后,加入到提取罐内,在70℃的温度下加入水和乙醇,其中,冬青叶小檗原料、水和乙醇的质量比为1:1:4,煮提取3次,每次2.5小时,获得冬青叶小檗提取液。之后将获得的冬青叶小檗提取液过滤并存放于储存罐,让储存罐中的滤液缓慢流入外循环罐和沉降罐进行浓缩,获得液体成分和沉淀物,将液体成分进行冷冻干燥后过80-100目筛,溶解于50%丁二醇水溶液后获得冬青叶小檗提取物。
在本发明实施例/对比例中,烟酰胺购自:上海麦克林生化科技有限公司;
需要说明的是,不同批次的购买的提取物会有相应的误差,一般误差不超过5%。
实施例1-6
将冬青叶小檗提取物用磷酸盐缓冲液稀释得到6组不同浓度(终浓度)的测试溶液,使用0.22μm滤头进行过滤。进行细胞活力测试时,冬青叶小檗提取物的质量浓度如下表1 所示。
细胞活性测试
CCK-8试剂中含有WST–8:化学名为2-(2-甲氧基-4-硝基苯基)-3-(4-硝基苯基)-5-(2,4- 二磺酸苯)-2H-四唑单钠盐,它在电子载体1-甲氧基-5-甲基吩嗪硫酸二甲酯的作用下被细胞线粒体中的脱氢酶还原为具有高度水溶性的黄色甲臜产物,生成的甲臜物的数量与活细胞的数量成正比。用酶联免疫检测仪在450nm波长处测定其光吸收值,可间接反映活细胞数量。该方法已被广泛用于一些生物活性因子的活性检测、大规模的抗肿瘤药物筛选、细胞增殖试验、细胞毒性试验以及药敏试验等。
将角质形成细胞稀释至2.5*103~50*103个/ml,将细胞悬液移至9cm培养皿中,用多道加样器在平底96孔板中间7列的各孔中加入200μl细胞悬液(每板56孔),从第2列开始到第8列为止。将200μl培养基加至第1列与第9列的8个孔中。第1列用作酶标仪的空白对照,第9列有助于维持第8列的湿度,并将边缘效应减至最小。将培养板放至5%二氧化碳培养箱中,于37℃湿润环境中培养1~3天,等细胞进入指数生长期时,移除培养液,培养板第3列到第8列加入含样品的培养基200μl作为实验组(根据表1的质量浓度,每列8个重复);培养板第2列只加入培养基200μl作为对照组;培养板第1列只加入培养基200μl作为空白组。
加入样品48小时后,每孔加入20μl CCK-8溶液,并于培养箱放置2小时后450nm波长测定吸光度。
细胞相对活力=[(OD实验组-OD空白组)/(OD对照组-OD空白组)]×100%
表1
通过表1的结果,我们可以看到冬青叶小檗提取物在不大于1.4mg/mL的浓度下,对皮肤角质形成细胞的活性影响较小。
实施例7-12
将冬青叶小檗提取物用磷酸盐缓冲液稀释得到6组不同浓度(终浓度)的测试溶液,使用0.22μm滤头进行过滤。进行细胞活力测试时,冬青叶小檗提取物的质量浓度如下表2所示。
黑色素细胞去甲肾上腺素受体抑制测试
当去甲肾上腺素激活黑色素细胞去甲肾上腺素受体时,它通过腺苷酸环化酶(AC)激活产生cAMP。cAMP进而激活PKA,PKA通过CREB的磷酸化激活MITF的基因表达。最后通过与TYR,TRP-1和TRP-2启动区域相互作用,MITF基因转录生成黑色素相关的蛋白。因此,检测细胞内cAMP的浓度可以反应出去甲肾上腺素受体的活化程度。
将黑色素瘤B16细胞稀释至2.5*104个/ml,将细胞悬液移至9cm培养皿中,用多道加样器在平底24孔板各孔中加人1mL细胞悬液。将培养板放至5%二氧化碳培养箱中,于37℃湿润环境中培养2-3天,等细胞铺满孔底至70-80%时,加入冬青叶小檗提取物(根据表2的质量浓度)。作用4小时后,加入10*10-9mol/L去甲肾上腺素,并于24小时后使用cAMP试剂盒检测细胞内cAMP浓度,450nm测定吸光度。
cAMP抑制率=[1-(OD实验组-OD空白组)/(OD对照组-OD空白组)]×100%
1、实验组加入冬青叶小檗提取物+去甲肾上腺素;
2、对照组加入去甲肾上腺素;
3、空白组加入磷酸盐缓冲液。
表2
通过表2的结果,我们可以看到冬青叶小檗提取物可以阻断去甲肾上腺素引起的cAMP浓度升高,并且呈剂量依赖。
实施例13-17
将冬青叶小檗提取物、烟酰胺和双-二乙氧基二甘醇环己烷1,4-二羧酸酯用磷酸盐缓冲液稀释得到5组不同浓度(终浓度)的测试溶液。进行测试时,冬青叶小檗提取物、烟酰胺和双-二乙氧基二甘醇环己烷1,4-二羧酸酯的质量浓度如下表3所示。
3D黑素皮肤模型表观亮度测定
将3D黑素皮肤模型进行UVB辐照,辐照剂量为每次50mJ/cm2,持续进行7天,每次辐照结束后,更换含10*10-9mol/L去甲肾上腺素的培养液。空白组不进行UVB辐照,每天仅更换培养液。将实施例13-17在气液面第6天和第8天进行表面给药,对照组、空白组仅更换培养液。
第9天用超纯水对皮肤模型表面清洗三次,去除受试物残留。将3D黑色素模型环切下后,用镊子置于相片纸上,保证角质层朝上放置,色差仪自校后,将色差仪检测孔垂直按压于模型表面进行L值读数。
L值变化率=[(OD实验组-OD空白组)/(OD对照组-OD空白组)-1]×100%
1、实验组为UVB辐照+去甲肾上腺素+冬青叶小檗提取物+烟酰胺;
2、对照组为UVB辐照+去甲肾上腺素;
3、空白组只更换培养液。
表3
通过表3的结果,我们可以看到冬青叶小檗提取物和烟酰胺的组合物,可以显著提升 3D黑素皮肤模型的亮度,并且提升效果与两者的比例有关系。
应用实施例1-5
根据下表4中的应用实施例1-5的亮肤水配方中各组分的含量(质量百分比),并按照下述生产工艺步骤制备得到亮肤水。
表4
生产工艺步骤如下:
1、将A相、B相及C相原料加入搅拌锅,搅拌并加热至80-83℃;
2、冷却至30℃,加入D相、E相、F相搅拌均匀;
3、冷却至25-30℃,检验合格后出料,静置24小时;
4、检验合格后,分装、包装,再检验,成品入库。
注:工艺中的A相、B相、C相、D相、E相、F相分别为,
A相:水;
B相:丁二醇、丙二醇、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、透明质酸钠、泛醇、双丙甘醇;
C相:羟苯甲酯、尿囊素、甘油聚醚-26、聚乙二醇-32;
D相:PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、香精;
E相:苯氧乙醇、神经酰胺2、海藻糖;
F相:冬青叶小檗提取物、烟酰胺、巨藻提取物、北美金缕梅花水、水解小麦蛋白、燕麦肽、双-二乙氧基二甘醇环己烷1,4-二羧酸酯。
配方中所使用的冬青叶小檗提取物、烟酰胺是美白组合物;
丁二醇、丙二醇、透明质酸钠、泛醇、双丙甘醇、甘油聚醚-26、聚乙二醇-32是保湿剂;
丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物是增稠剂;
巨藻提取物、神经酰胺2、水解小麦蛋白、燕麦肽、尿囊素、海藻糖是皮肤调理剂;
PEG-40氢化蓖麻油是增溶剂;香精是芳香剂;北美金缕梅花水是舒敏剂;
双-二乙氧基二甘醇环己烷1,4-二羧酸酯是促渗剂。
应用对比例1-2
根据下表5中的应用对比例1-2的亮肤水配方中各组分的含量(质量百分比),并按照与应用实施例1-2相同的方法,制备得到亮肤水。
表5
美白功效测试
皮肤黑色素变化率的测试方法:通过测定特定波长的光照在人体皮肤上后的反射量来确定皮肤中黑色素的含量。探头的发射器发出波长分别为568nm、660nm、和880nm三种波长的光照射在皮肤表面,接受器测得皮肤反射的光,并测定被皮肤吸收的光的量,从而可以得出皮肤黑色素的变化率。
皮肤黑色素变化率的测试采用德国CK公司的色素检测仪进行测试,其中,皮肤黑色素的测试探头MX 18由光源发射器和接收器组成,另有弹簧以保持检测时对皮肤的压力恒定。探头的测量范围是0-999,测量数值越高,可以说明皮肤中黑色素的含量越高。
受试者人数为33人,试验周期为4周,试验选取应用实施例1-5的亮肤水以及应用对比例1-2的亮肤水,每天早晚涂抹于前臂内侧的不同区域,分别测定实验前(Day1)和使用28天时(Day28)的受试区域的皮肤在特定波长的光照后的反射量以确定皮肤中黑色素的含量,进而表征黑色素的变化率,具体黑色素的变化率的结果如图4所示。
由图4可以看出,本申请的应用实施例2-4的黑色素的变化率较大,即黑色素含量降低,因此,使用冬青叶小檗提取物和烟酰胺组合物,能够有效美白皮肤。
另外,本申请的应用实施例1和5中,由于冬青叶小檗提取物的含量较高或者较少,其黑色素含量降低较少。
本申请的应用对比例1-2中,在单一使用冬青叶小檗提取物或者单一使用烟酰胺时,其黑色素含量变化率小,黑色素含量降低少,美白效果较差。
本发明的上述实施例仅仅是为清楚地说明本发明所作的举例,而并非是对本发明的实施方式的限定。对于所属领域的普通技术人员来说,在上述说明的基础上还可以做出其它不同形式的变化或变动。这里无需也无法对所有的实施方式予以穷举。凡在本发明的精神和原则之内所作的任何修改、等同替换和改进等,均应包含在本发明权利要求的保护范围之内。
Claims (10)
1.冬青叶小檗提取物在制备抑制黑色素生成的护肤品方面的用途。
2.一种抑制黑色素生成的组合物,其特征在于,包含
冬青叶小檗提取物,和
烟酰胺,
其中,所述冬青叶小檗提取物与烟酰胺的质量比为1:1-99。
3.如权利要求1所述的组合物,其特征在于,按质量分数计,所述组合物包括
冬青叶小檗提取物1-50%,和
烟酰胺50-99%。
4.如权利要求2或3任一所述的组合物在制备护肤品方面的用途,其特征在于,所述护肤品选自面霜、精华、乳液、亮肤水中的至少一种。
5.如权利要求2或3任一所述的组合物,其特征在于,所述冬青叶小檗提取物的制备方法包括以下步骤:
S1:将冬青叶小檗原料粉碎;
S2:将粉碎后的冬青叶小檗原料加入至提取罐中,利用水和醇进行提取,所述冬青叶小檗原料、水以及醇的质量比为1:0.05-5:0.05-5,提取温度为50-80℃,提取1-5次,提取时间为1-5小时,获得冬青叶小檗粗提液;
S3:将获得的冬青叶小檗粗提液过滤,并经过外循环罐、沉降罐进行浓缩并进行冷冻干燥,过80-100目筛网后,溶解于50%丁二醇水溶液,获得冬青叶小檗提取物。
6.一种美白组合物,其特征在于,包括如权利要求2或3任一所述的抑制黑色素生成的组合物及促渗剂,如权利要求2或3任一所述的抑制黑色素生成的组合物的加入量为0.01-10%;所述促渗透剂的加入量为0.01-10%,所述促渗透剂为双-二乙氧基二甘醇环己烷1,4-二羧酸酯。
7.如权利要求6所述的美白组合物,其特征在于,还包括保湿剂、增稠剂、增溶剂、皮肤调理剂、舒敏剂、防腐剂和芳香剂中的至少一种;
优选地,以所述美白组合物的总质量计,所述保湿剂的加入量为0.01-20%;所述增稠剂的加入量为0.02-0.8%;所述增溶剂的加入量为0.01-0.5%;所述皮肤调理剂的加入量为0.01-5%;所述舒敏剂的加入量为0.01-5%;所述防腐剂的加入量为0.01-1.5%;所述芳香剂的加入量为0.005-0.5%。
8.如权利要求7所述的美白组合物,其特征在于,所述保湿剂选自括二丙二醇、双丙甘醇、丙二醇、丁二醇、泛醇、甘油、聚乙二醇-32、甘油聚醚-26、透明质酸钠中的至少一种;
优选地,所述增稠剂选自丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、羟乙基纤维素、黄原胶、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、卡波姆和丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物中的至少一种;
优选地,所述增溶剂选自聚山梨醇酯-20、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油和PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26中的至少一种;
优选地,所述皮肤调理剂选自巨藻提取物、维生素E、燕麦肽、神经酰胺2、墨角藻提取物、小球藻发酵产物、水解胶原蛋白、水解小麦蛋白、绿藻提取物、褐藻提取物、尿囊素、乳酸杆菌/大豆发酵产物提取物、白果槲寄生叶提取物、白茅根提取物、仙人掌提取物、海藻糖中的至少一种;
优选地,所述舒敏剂选自北美金缕梅水、洋甘菊提取物、马齿苋提取物、积雪草提取物、姜根提取物,红没药醇,甘草酸二钾中的至少一种;
优选地,所述防腐剂选自苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯、氯苯甘醚、苯甲酸及其盐中的至少一种。
10.如权利要求9所述的亮肤水的制备方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
1)将A相加入乳化锅,搅拌并加热到80-85℃,均质5-10min,保温搅拌10-30min后冷却;
2)冷却至30-35℃,加入B相、C相和预溶好的D相、E相搅拌均匀;
3)冷却至30-35℃,出料,静置12-48小时;
4)检验合格后,分装、包装,再检验,成品入库。
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