CN113208968A - Whitening and moisturizing essence and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Whitening and moisturizing essence and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a whitening and moisturizing essence and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The whitening and moisturizing essence consists of the following raw materials: glycerin, 1, 3-propylene glycol, deionized water, gamma-polyglutamic acid, carbomer, water-soluble fullerene, ascorbyl glucoside, p-hydroxyacetophenone, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, sodium hyaluronate, 1, 2-pentanediol, nicotinamide, plant essence extract and skin conditioner. According to the invention, natural active ingredients and auxiliary materials in the plant extract are matched, so that the activity of the ferment complex enzyme can be inhibited, the generation of melanin is reduced, and the skin conditioner coated by cyclodextrin is added, so that the defects of dark complexion and lusterless skin can be effectively improved, and the skin is moist and elastic. The whitening and moisturizing essence disclosed by the invention has no irritation to skin, does not cause anaphylactic reaction, and is safe and effective.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a whitening and moisturizing essence and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The whitening cosmetic is a cosmetic capable of inhibiting tyrosinase activity or acting on each stage of melanin metabolic pathway to control and inhibit melanin generation. Therefore, the development of effective tyrosinase inhibitory components which have no toxic or side effect on human bodies and small irritation becomes one of the keys for researching the formula of the whitening cosmetics. The whitening component extracted from the plant has the following specific advantages: mild to skin, less in irritation and high in safety, and has gradually become a hot spot for new product development in the cosmetic industry at the present stage.
Chinese patent 201711439383.2 discloses a whitening and moisturizing essence and a preparation method thereof, the main adopted raw materials are deionized water, jojoba oil, arbutin, potassium salt of azelaic acid amino acid, methylparaben, octyl polymethylsiloxane, glycerin, propylene glycol, water-soluble ceramide, sodium hyaluronate, phenoxyethanol, triethanolamine, carbomer and natural plant essence extracts, and the whitening and moisturizing essence has good free radical scavenging and antioxidant properties, but has poor long-acting moisturizing property.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention provides the whitening and moisturizing essence and the preparation method thereof. Active substances in rhodiola rosea and lacquer tree have active ingredients which obviously inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, so the invention selects the two plant extracts as the ingredients for extracting the whitening and moisturizing additive to develop the natural whitening and moisturizing essence, has no irritation to skin, has good safety, enables the skin to be natural, has the whitening effect, and has the long-acting whitening and moisturizing effects.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the technical scheme that:
the whitening and moisturizing essence consists of the following raw materials: glycerol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, deionized water, gamma-polyglutamic acid, carbomer, water-soluble fullerene, ascorbyl glucoside, p-hydroxyacetophenone, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, sodium hyaluronate, 1, 2-pentanediol, nicotinamide and plant essence extract.
Preferably, the whitening and moisturizing essence consists of the following raw materials: glycerin, 1, 3-propylene glycol, deionized water, gamma-polyglutamic acid, carbomer, water-soluble fullerene, ascorbyl glucoside, p-hydroxyacetophenone, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, sodium hyaluronate, 1, 2-pentanediol, nicotinamide, plant essence extract and skin conditioner.
The whitening and moisturizing essence consists of the following raw materials in parts by weight: 3-6 parts of glycerol, 3-8 parts of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 60-80 parts of deionized water, 0.5-1 part of gamma-polyglutamic acid, 0.2-1 part of carbomer, 10-30 parts of water-soluble fullerene, 1-3 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.1-1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.5-4 parts of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.1-1 part of sodium hyaluronate, 0.5-2 parts of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.5-2 parts of nicotinamide, 1-10 parts of plant essence extract and 0.1-5 parts of skin conditioner.
The moisturizing effect of the double-layer essence can be prolonged by adopting the gamma-polyglutamic acid and the ascorbyl glucoside, the long-term moisturizing effect of the double-layer essence is improved, and the long-term moisturizing function is realized; the water-soluble fullerene is a long-acting free radical scavenger, forms a stable state after absorbing free radicals, has strong oxidation resistance, has the effects of whitening and preventing ultraviolet rays, and can be stored in the skin care product for a long time due to the stability of the water-soluble fullerene;
dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: as a penetration enhancer, the cosmetic composition can effectively promote the absorption of effective active substances, so that various substances in the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, and has good effects of resisting ultraviolet radiation, whitening, removing freckles, moisturizing, locking water and improving skin barrier;
hyaluronic acid and ascorbyl glucoside: the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and the ascorbyl glucoside are mixed, so that the moisture of a human body can be locked, the moisture loss of the human body is prevented, the water locking and moisture preserving are synchronously performed, and the skin care product containing the sodium hyaluronate has obvious lubricating feeling and good hand feeling when being smeared; after being applied to the skin, a layer of film can be formed on the surface of the skin, so that the skin can generate good smooth feeling and moist feeling, and the protective effect on the skin is achieved;
nicotinamide: can inhibit melanin deposition, prevent melanin from transferring to superficial layer cells, accelerate cutin exfoliation containing melanin, reduce protein yellowing after saccharification, reduce spot size and number, and reduce oil secretion;
plant extracts: rhodiola rosea, which is an active ingredient of the whitening composition of the present invention, is named Rhodiola rosea, sumac: the extractive solution contains antioxidant substances such as flavone and rich nutrient components, has good anti-radiation and anti-oxidation effects, can reduce the damage of free radicals generated by ultraviolet and chemical substance induction to skin tissue, thereby playing a role in delaying aging, and meanwhile, the rhodiola rosea extractive solution can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, prevent the formation of melanin and whiten skin;
skin conditioner: the skin-care product contains antioxidant linolenic acid and salicylic acid, can maintain the nutrient balance of cell membranes, resists the damage of the external environment to the skin and enables the skin to have daily functions of high-efficiency regeneration, moisture retention, permeability and the like; increasing cell membrane elasticity and activating cells, improving epidermal layer texture, reducing pigment deposition, moistening skin, and improving rough, dark and lightless skin. Has strong oxidation resistance, can effectively neutralize free radicals, promote metabolism and reduce visible fine lines.
The preparation method of the plant essence extract comprises the following steps: (1) pretreatment: cleaning lacquer trees and rhodiola rosea with deionized water, placing the washed lacquer trees and rhodiola rosea in a forced air drying box for drying for 8-20h at 35-70 ℃, crushing and sieving with a sieve of 200-400 meshes to obtain mixed powder, adding the deionized water, performing ultrasonic treatment for 40-60min at the ultrasonic power of 160-300W and the frequency of 30-50kHz and the heating temperature of 70-100 ℃ in a mass ratio of 1 (1-10), taking out and cooling to 30-37 ℃ to obtain mixed liquid A;
(2) preparing fermentation liquor: sequentially adding glutamine and glucose into the mixed solution A, wherein the D-glutamine accounts for 1-5 wt% of the mixed solution A, the glucose accounts for 15-20 wt% of the mixed solution A, and adding citric acid to adjust the pH value to 5.0-5.5 to obtain fermentation liquor;
(3) fermentation: inoculating 1-5 wt% of zymocyte in fermentation liquid, fermenting at constant temperature of 25-32 ℃ and stirring at 100-;
(4) and (3) drying: adding deionized water with the same quality as the fermented product into the fermented product, aging at 80-120 deg.C for 1-3 hr, filtering, and freeze drying the filtrate to obtain plant essence extract.
The lacquer tree and the rhodiola rosea are mixed according to the mass ratio of (1-3): 1;
the zymocyte in the step (3) is one or two of saccharomycetes and aspergillus niger; preferably, the zymocyte in the step (3) is a mixture of yeast and aspergillus niger in a mass ratio of 1: 1.
One of the concepts of the invention is to add plant essence extract into the moisturizing and whitening essence liquid, the rhodiola rosea extract contains antioxidant substances such as flavone and the like and rich nutrient components, has good anti-radiation and anti-oxidation effects, can reduce the damage of free radicals generated by the induction of ultraviolet rays and chemical substances to skin tissues, inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, prevent the formation of melanin, whiten the skin, delay the aging of cells, improve the activity of SOD in vivo, enhance the metabolism and synthesis of cells, improve the activity of cells and have the effects of beautifying and protecting the skin. The lacquer tree branches contain polyphenol substances, have good tyrosinase inhibition activity and are effective tyrosinase inhibitors. In addition, the inventor finds that the whitening effect can be further enhanced by adding saccharomycetes and aspergillus niger for fermentation and extraction in the preparation process of the plant essence extracting solution, and the whitening activity and the repairing activity are improved by the fermentation activity plant extracting solution obtained by fermenting the saccharomycetes and the aspergillus niger.
The skin conditioner is any one of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin or hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin inclusion compound; preferably, the skin conditioning agent is a hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin inclusion compound.
The preparation method of the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin inclusion compound comprises the following steps: weighing 5-15 parts by weight of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin, adding 20-40 parts by weight of deionized water, stirring at 300-600rpm and 30-50 ℃ for 3-8min, adding 2-5 parts by weight of 40-60 wt% ethanol solution of organic acid while stirring, continuing stirring at 300-600rpm and 40-60 ℃ for 1-3h, cooling to room temperature, refrigerating in a 0-10 ℃ refrigerator for 20-30h, filtering with a 0.45 mu m organic microporous filter membrane, washing the precipitate with 30 parts by weight of deionized water, centrifuging, and vacuum drying at 40-70 ℃ for 10-20h to obtain the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin inclusion compound.
The organic acid is salicylic acid and/or alpha-linolenic acid; preferably, the organic acid is salicylic acid and alpha-linolenic acid according to a mass ratio of (1-3): (1-3) in the presence of a catalyst.
The second idea of the invention is that the skin conditioner is added into the whitening and moisturizing essence, and the skin conditioner can be used as a stabilizer, an emulsifier and a deodorant in cosmetic raw materials, can effectively reduce the stimulation of organic molecules in the cosmetics to skin mucosa tissues, enhance the stability of effective components, prevent the volatilization and oxidation of nutritional components, and simultaneously have certain moisture retention, so that the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin has certain conditioning and repairing effects on the skin. The salicylic acid is fat-soluble, can permeate into deep layer of pore along sebaceous gland secreting oil, is favorable for dissolving old accumulated cuticle in pore, and improves pore blocking condition, so that acne can be blocked and enlarged pore can be reduced. The salicylic acid acts on cells of the hair follicle wall, can help to remove blocked hair follicles and correct abnormal cell shedding, can prevent the hair follicles from being blocked for slight whelks, is most effective for blackheads, can reduce the phenomenon of abnormal shedding of the hair follicle wall and prevent new focuses from being generated; the alpha-linolenic acid is an excellent conditioner and nutritional supplement in skin care products, can improve the hydration degree and elasticity of skin and enhance the blood circulation and the metabolism of cells, but the salicylic acid or the alpha-linolenic acid is easy to generate oxidation reaction when being contacted with oxygen in the air, in addition, the salicylic acid and the alpha-linolenic acid have poor water solubility, are very unstable when being directly and independently used in the cosmetics, are easy to oxidize when being exposed in the air for a long time, and have short shelf life, therefore, the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin which has no any irritation to the skin and has excellent water solubility is adopted to coat the two substances, the probability of oxidizing the salicylic acid or the alpha-linolenic acid in the cosmetics can be reduced, the solubility in water can be improved, the use efficiency can be improved, and the respective effects can not be influenced, the shelf life of the product is prolonged. Therefore, when the facial mask is applied, the salicylic acid and the alpha-linolenic acid are released, the salicylic acid can cause the cuticle to fall off, so that the excessively thick cuticle can be removed, the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin and the alpha-linolenic acid are promoted to enter the deeper layer of the skin, the moisturizing performance of the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin and the antioxidant performance of the alpha-linolenic acid are exerted, and the three are synergistic.
A preparation method of whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing the raw materials in parts by weight;
s2, uniformly mixing deionized water, gamma-polyglutamic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, water-soluble fullerene, ascorbyl glucoside and nicotinamide, and stirring at 1000-1400rpm and 60-70 ℃ for 10-30min to obtain a mixture A;
s3, uniformly mixing glycerol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, sodium hyaluronate and 1, 2-pentanediol, and stirring at 900-1400rpm at 60-80 ℃ for 10-30min to obtain a mixture B;
s4, adding the mixture B into an emulsification and homogenization device, adding the mixture A, homogenizing for 10-20S at 3000-5000rpm, cooling, adding carbomer, plant essence extract and skin conditioner, and mixing at 200-400rpm for 10-20min at normal temperature to obtain an emulsion C;
s5, homogenizing the emulsion C for 2-5min by using an ultrahigh pressure homogenizer at a homogenizing pressure of 120-.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: according to the invention, natural active ingredients and auxiliary materials in the plant extract are matched, so that the activity of the enzyme-dependent enzyme can be inhibited, the generation of melanin is reduced, color spots are reduced, the dull skin is improved, and simultaneously, the dipotassium glycyrrhizinate is used as a penetration enhancer, so that the components can be promoted to effectively permeate into the skin, free radicals in cells can be further eliminated, cell membranes are protected from oxidative damage, the characteristic of permeability is maintained, the activity of skin cells is improved, the blood circulation is improved, the product is endowed with a very good whitening and beautifying effect, and finally, the skin is conditioned through the cyclodextrin-coated skin conditioner without stimulation to the skin, so that the defects of dull and rough complexion and dull skin can be effectively improved, and the skin is moist and elastic; the whitening and moisturizing essence disclosed by the invention has the remarkable moisturizing and whitening effects, and also has various matrixes, so that the skin can be subjected to basic nursing, moisturizing and skin health maintenance. The whitening and moisturizing essence disclosed by the invention does not contain components harmful to human bodies, has no irritation to skin, does not cause anaphylactic reaction, and is safe and effective.
Detailed Description
The above summary of the present invention is described in further detail below with reference to specific embodiments, but it should not be understood that the scope of the above subject matter of the present invention is limited to the following examples.
Introduction of some raw materials in this application:
examples glycerol, CAS: 56-81-5, purity: 99.9% from Shanghai blue beauty cosmetics Co.
Examples 1, 3-propanediol, CAS: 504-63-2, purity: 99.9%, cargo number: 063334, available from Shandongde chemical Co., Ltd.
In examples, gamma-polyglutamic acid, molecular weight: 200 ten thousand, purity: 99%, cargo number: 89744, available from Biotech, Inc., of Bernwei, Shaanxi.
Examples carbomer, CAS: 9007-20-9, carbomer 940, available from Shanxi Pa Neil Biotech, Inc.
In the examples, the water-soluble fullerene has a hydroxyl number of 28, a solubility of 50mg/ml, a purity: 99% from Shanghai Po micro application materials technology Co.
Examples ascorbyl glucoside, CAS: 129499-78-1 purity: 99% from Wujingyao Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
Examples p-hydroxyacetophenone, CAS: 99-93-4, available from Zhengzhou Chunqiu chemical Co., Ltd.
Examples dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, CAS: 68797-35-3, purity: 99% of the total weight of the product, Zhengzhou Kangyuan chemical products Co.
Examples sodium hyaluronate, CAS: 9067-32-7, purity: 99.9%, type: haoz, available from Hazeo Biotechnology Inc., West Anle.
Examples 1, 2-pentanediol, CAS: 5343-92-0, purity: 99.9%, cargo number: FYT5453, available from the scientific Biotechnology of Wuhan Hua.
Examples nicotinamide, CAS: 98-92-0, purity: 99% from Shandong Bili fluoride chemical Co., Ltd
In the embodiment of the lacquer tree, lacquer tree leaves are adopted, and the goods number is as follows: 2020, bought from Hexapeak Ebo nursery stock professional Cooperation, Hefeng county.
In the embodiment, rhodiola rosea adopts rhodiola rosea root, the cargo number: 5, purchased from shanghai chen defense international trade company, ltd.
Examples D-Glutamine, CAS: 5959-95-5, purity: 99% of the total amount of the culture medium is purchased from Hongtao bioengineering Limited of Hebei.
Examples glucose, CAS: 50-99-7, purity: 99%, cargo number: 89-454, available from Jinming, Jinan, biological technologies, Inc.
Examples citric acid, CAS: 77-92-9, purity: 99%, cat # sfwaas, available from Shandong Nuanzao Biotech, Inc.
In the examples, the yeasts were purchased from the institute of biotechnology, Beijing Beinanna, and the number of the strains was: BNCC 164204.
In the embodiment, the aspergillus niger is purchased from China general microbiological preservation management center, and the strain number is as follows: CGMCC 3.3928.
Examples hydroxypropyl- β -cyclodextrin, CAS: 128446-35-5, purity: 99% from Henan Ruren bioengineering, Inc.
Examples salicylic acid, CAS: 69-72-7, purity: 99% of the total amount.
Examples α -linolenic acid, CAS: 463-40-1, purity: 99%, cargo number: woxuan, available from Wohangxuan science and technology Co., Ltd.
Example 1
The whitening and moisturizing essence consists of the following raw materials in parts by weight: 5 parts by weight of glycerin, 7 parts by weight of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 78 parts by weight of deionized water, 2 parts by weight of gamma-polyglutamic acid, 0.8 part by weight of carbomer, 15 parts by weight of water-soluble fullerene, 2 parts by weight of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.5 part by weight of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 2 parts by weight of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.8 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 1 part by weight of 1, 2-pentanediol, 1 part by weight of nicotinamide and 2 parts by weight of skin conditioner;
the skin conditioner is hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin;
a preparation method of whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing the raw materials in parts by weight;
s2, uniformly mixing deionized water, gamma-polyglutamic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, water-soluble fullerene, ascorbyl glucoside and nicotinamide, and stirring at 1200rpm and 65 ℃ for 20min to obtain a mixture A;
s3, uniformly mixing glycerol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, sodium hyaluronate and 1, 2-pentanediol, and stirring at 1200rpm and 70 ℃ for 25min to obtain a mixture B;
s4, adding the mixture B into an emulsifying and homogenizing device, adding the mixture A, homogenizing at 4000rpm for 15S, cooling, adding carbomer and a skin conditioner, and mixing at 300rpm at normal temperature for 15min to obtain an emulsion C;
and S5, homogenizing the emulsion C for 3min by using an ultrahigh pressure homogenizer at the homogenizing pressure of 180MPa and the homogenizing speed of 12000rpm to obtain the whitening and moisturizing essence.
Comparative example 1
The whitening and moisturizing essence consists of the following raw materials in parts by weight: 5 parts by weight of glycerin, 7 parts by weight of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 70 parts by weight of deionized water, 2 parts by weight of gamma-polyglutamic acid, 0.8 part by weight of carbomer, 15 parts by weight of water-soluble fullerene, 2 parts by weight of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.5 part by weight of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 2 parts by weight of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.8 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 1 part by weight of 1, 2-pentanediol, 1 part by weight of nicotinamide, 8 parts by weight of plant essence extract and 2 parts by weight of skin conditioner;
the skin conditioner is hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin;
the preparation method of the plant essence extract comprises the following steps:
(1) pretreatment: cleaning lacquer tree and rhodiola rosea with deionized water, placing the washed lacquer tree and rhodiola rosea in a forced air drying oven for drying for 12h at 50 ℃, crushing and sieving the washed lacquer tree and rhodiola rosea with a 300-mesh sieve to obtain mixed powder, adding deionized water, carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 50min at the ultrasonic power of 200W and the frequency of 40kHz and the heating temperature of 80 ℃ and taking out the mixed powder and cooling the mixed powder to 35 ℃ to obtain mixed liquid A, wherein the mass ratio of the mixed powder to the deionized water is 1: 5;
(2) extraction: sequentially adding D-glutamine and glucose into the mixed solution A, wherein the D-glutamine accounts for 3 wt% of the mixed solution A, the glucose accounts for 18 wt% of the mixed solution A, adding citric acid to adjust the pH value to be 5.2, and stirring at the temperature of 28 ℃ for 4 days at the stirring speed of 120rpm to obtain a mixed solution B;
(3) and (3) drying: adding the same deionized water into the mixed solution B, aging at 100 deg.C for 1.5 hr, filtering, and freeze drying the filtrate to obtain plant essence extract;
the lacquer tree and the rhodiola root are mixed according to the mass ratio of 2: 1;
a preparation method of whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing the raw materials in parts by weight;
s2, uniformly mixing deionized water, gamma-polyglutamic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, water-soluble fullerene, ascorbyl glucoside and nicotinamide, and stirring at 1200rpm and 65 ℃ for 20min to obtain a mixture A;
s3, uniformly mixing glycerol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, sodium hyaluronate and 1, 2-pentanediol, and stirring at 1200rpm and 70 ℃ for 25min to obtain a mixture B;
s4, adding the mixture B into an emulsifying and homogenizing device, adding the mixture A, homogenizing at 4000rpm for 15S, cooling, adding carbomer, plant essence extract and skin conditioner, and mixing at 300rpm at normal temperature for 15min to obtain emulsion C;
and S5, homogenizing the emulsion C for 3min by using an ultrahigh pressure homogenizer at the homogenizing pressure of 180MPa and the homogenizing speed of 12000rpm to obtain the whitening and moisturizing essence.
Example 2
The whitening and moisturizing essence consists of the following raw materials in parts by weight: 5 parts by weight of glycerin, 7 parts by weight of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 70 parts by weight of deionized water, 2 parts by weight of gamma-polyglutamic acid, 0.8 part by weight of carbomer, 15 parts by weight of water-soluble fullerene, 2 parts by weight of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.5 part by weight of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 2 parts by weight of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.8 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 1 part by weight of 1, 2-pentanediol, 1 part by weight of nicotinamide, 8 parts by weight of plant essence extract and 2 parts by weight of skin conditioner;
the preparation method of the plant essence extract comprises the following steps:
(1) pretreatment: cleaning lacquer tree and rhodiola rosea with deionized water, placing the washed lacquer tree and rhodiola rosea in a forced air drying oven for drying for 12h at 50 ℃, crushing and sieving the washed lacquer tree and rhodiola rosea with a 300-mesh sieve to obtain mixed powder, adding deionized water, carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 50min at the ultrasonic power of 200W and the frequency of 40kHz and the heating temperature of 80 ℃ and taking out the mixed powder and cooling the mixed powder to 35 ℃ to obtain mixed liquid A, wherein the mass ratio of the mixed powder to the deionized water is 1: 5;
(2) preparing fermentation liquor: sequentially adding D-glutamine and glucose into the mixed liquor A, wherein the D-glutamine accounts for 3 wt% of the mixed liquor A, the glucose accounts for 18 wt% of the mixed liquor A, and adding citric acid to adjust the pH value to be 5.2 to obtain fermentation liquor;
(3) fermentation: inoculating zymocyte into the fermentation liquor, wherein the inoculation amount of the zymocyte is 4 wt%, and fermenting at the constant temperature of 28 ℃ at the stirring speed of 120rpm for 4 days to obtain a fermented product;
(4) and (3) drying: adding deionized water with the same quality as the fermented product into the fermented product, aging at 100 deg.C for 1.5 hr, filtering, and freeze drying the filtrate to obtain plant essence extract;
the lacquer tree and the rhodiola root are mixed according to the mass ratio of 2: 1;
the zymocyte is a mixture of saccharomycetes and aspergillus niger in a mass ratio of 1: 1;
the skin conditioner is hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin;
a preparation method of whitening and moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing the raw materials in parts by weight;
s2, uniformly mixing deionized water, gamma-polyglutamic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, water-soluble fullerene, ascorbyl glucoside and nicotinamide, and stirring at 1200rpm and 65 ℃ for 20min to obtain a mixture A;
s3, uniformly mixing glycerol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, sodium hyaluronate and 1, 2-pentanediol, and stirring at 1200rpm and 70 ℃ for 25min to obtain a mixture B;
s4, adding the mixture B into an emulsifying and homogenizing device, adding the mixture A, homogenizing at 4000rpm for 15S, cooling, adding carbomer, plant essence extract and skin conditioner, and mixing at 300rpm at normal temperature for 15min to obtain emulsion C;
and S5, homogenizing the emulsion C for 3min by using an ultrahigh pressure homogenizer at the homogenizing pressure of 180MPa and the homogenizing speed of 12000rpm to obtain the whitening and moisturizing essence.
Example 3
Essentially the same as example 2 except that the skin conditioning agent is hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin inclusion complex;
the preparation method of the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin inclusion compound comprises the following steps: weighing 8 parts by weight of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin, adding 30 parts by weight of deionized water, stirring at 400rpm and 40 ℃ for 5min, adding 2 parts by weight of 50 wt% organic acid ethanol solution while stirring, continuously stirring at 500rpm and 50 ℃ for 2h, cooling to room temperature, refrigerating in a refrigerator at 4 ℃ for 24h, carrying out suction filtration by using an organic microporous filter membrane with the diameter of 0.45 mu m, washing precipitates by using 30 parts by weight of deionized water, centrifuging, and carrying out vacuum drying at 50 ℃ for 16h to obtain a hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin inclusion compound;
the organic acid is salicylic acid.
Example 4
Essentially the same as in example 3, except that the organic acid is alpha-linolenic acid.
Example 5
The method is basically the same as example 3, except that the organic acid is a mixture of salicylic acid and alpha-linolenic acid in a mass ratio of 1: 1.
Test example 1
And (3) evaluating the product effect: the test population is 240 female people with healthy skin and no allergic history of skin diseases between 25 and 35 years, the test population is divided into 6 groups on average, 40 female people in each group are 30.5 female people, and the test method comprises the following steps: the whitening and moisturizing essence liquids prepared in examples 1 to 5 and comparative example 1 were used, respectively, and the use effect was observed and recorded, and evaluated by using 100 points. The using method comprises the following steps: after a subject cleans the face, an appropriate amount of the whitening and moisturizing essence of examples 1-5 and comparative example 1 is taken in the palm, the whitening and moisturizing essence is uniformly applied to the face each time, the face is gently massaged until the whitening and moisturizing essence is absorbed, the whitening and moisturizing essence is used for 1 time in the morning and at night each day and is continuously used for one month, all sensory evaluation indexes are scored, the statistical scores are averaged, one decimal number is kept, and the detailed recording results are shown in the following table 1.
Table 1 summary table of trial (one month) feedback of whitening and moisturizing essence
From the results, the whitening and moisturizing essence added with the plant essence extract and the skin conditioning agent is widely accepted by subjects, and the subjects show that the whitening and moisturizing essence has good permeability, is easy to absorb, improves the glossiness and elasticity of the skin, makes the face fresh and non-sticky after use, has whitening and moisturizing effects, makes the skin moist, smooth and elastic, can promote the metabolism of the skin, and can moisturize the skin for a long time. Specifically, examples 1 to 5 can be compared with comparative example 1, and the using effect of the whitening and moisturizing essence without any plant extract in example 1 is not as good as that in examples 2 to 3, which shows that the added plant extract can improve the whitening and moisturizing effects of the skin. From examples 3 to 5, it can be seen that the addition of the hydroxypropyl- β -cyclodextrin inclusion compound as a skin elasticity regulator can further improve the permeability and the absorbability of the skin, thereby further improving the whitening and moisturizing effects of the skin, which indicates that the formula of the whitening and moisturizing essence of the present invention is not obtained by simply combining the components, but by reasonably controlling the amounts of the components, the components can fully exert their respective effects and cooperate with each other, so that the obtained whitening and moisturizing essence has significant moisturizing, water locking, moisturizing and whitening effects. Meanwhile, no allergy phenomenon occurs in all the subjects, and the conditions of skin stabbing pain, pruritus, redness and swelling and the like do not occur. Therefore, the whitening and moisturizing essence is warm and safe and can be used for a long time.
Test example 2
Tyrosinase inhibition assay: firstly, preparing a 0.2mol/L Phosphate Buffer Solution (PBS) solution with the pH value of 6.86, and dissolving L-tyrosine in the PBS solution with the pH value of 6.86 to prepare a2 mmol/L-tyrosine solution; dissolving tyrosinase in PBS buffer solution with the pH value of 6.86 to prepare a tyrosinase solution of 100U/mL; dissolving a sample to be detected in PBS (phosphate buffer solution) with the pH value of 6.86 to prepare a sample solution to be detected of 1 mg/mL; 0.5mL of sample solution to be tested is added with 0.5mL of tyrosinase solution and 1.5mL of PBS buffer solution with the pH value of 6.86, the temperature is preserved for 10min at 37 ℃, 0.5mL of L-tyrosine solution is added to react for 18min at 37 ℃, the light absorption value is measured at 475nm, 5 groups are tested according to the same formula, the average value is taken, and the test results are shown in the following table 2.
Tyrosinase inhibition (%) [1- (a1-a2)/(A3-a4) ] × 100
Wherein, A1: l-tyrosine, the light absorption value of the sample to be detected and the tyrosinase system; a2: the light absorption value of the sample to be detected, the tyrosinase and PBS buffer solution system; a3: the light absorption values of an L-tyrosine and tyrosinase system and a PBS buffer solution; a4: and (3) the light absorption value of a tyrosinase and PBS buffer solution system.
TABLE 2 tyrosinase inhibition
| Tyrosinase inhibition (%) | |
| Example 1 | 60.4 |
| Comparative example 1 | 70.3 |
| Example 2 | 81.7 |
| Example 3 | 85.2 |
| Example 4 | 87.6 |
| Example 5 | 90.5 |
From the above results, it can be seen that the addition of the plant essence extract and the skin conditioner to the whitening and moisturizing essence can increase the tyrosinase inhibition rate, reduce the generation of melanin, and have whitening and antioxidant effects. Specifically, comparing example 1 with comparative example 1, it is apparent that the essence containing the plant essence extract can significantly improve the tyrosinase inhibition rate, thereby improving the whitening effect, because the rhodiola rosea extract contains antioxidant substances such as flavone, has good anti-radiation and anti-oxidation effects, can reduce the damage of free radicals generated by ultraviolet and chemical substance induction to skin tissues, inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, and prevent the formation of melanin; the lacquer tree contains polyphenol substances, has better tyrosinase activity inhibition effect, and is an effective tyrosinase inhibitor. In addition, the inventor finds that the whitening effect can be further enhanced by adding the zymophyte in the preparation process of the plant essence extracting solution, because the fermentation activity plant extracting solution obtained by fermentation of the zymophyte improves the whitening activity and the repairing activity.
Comparing example 2 with comparative example 1, it is understood that example 2 can further enhance the whitening effect by using the fermented extract because the whitening activity and the repairing activity are enhanced by the fermented active plant extract obtained by fermenting the fermentation tubes. Comparative examples 2 to 4 show that the cosmetic composition containing hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin inclusion compound as a skin conditioner has more remarkable whitening effect, can reduce the content of melanin in skin, and improve the problem of dark and yellow skin compared with the cosmetic composition containing hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin as a skin conditioner. Meanwhile, the moisture content of the horny layer of the dry skin of the face can be effectively improved, the water locking capacity of the skin is improved, and the barrier function of the skin is improved, in the embodiment 3, hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin is added to serve as a skin conditioner, so that the stabilizing effect of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin in the whitening and moisturizing essence is exerted, and the whitening effect is improved to a certain extent; in addition, the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin inclusion compound is adopted in the embodiments 3 to 4, so that the solubility of the salicylic acid or the alpha-linolenic acid in the whitening and moisturizing essence is increased, when the whitening and moisturizing essence is used for smearing, the salicylic acid or the alpha-linolenic acid is released, and the salicylic acid can enable the cuticle to fall off, so that the cuticle which is excessively thick in accumulation can be removed, the plant essence extract is promoted to enter the deeper layer of the skin, the inhibition effect of the plant essence extract on tyrosinase is exerted, and the whitening effect is further improved;
further comparing examples 3-5, example 5 adopts the combination of salicylic acid and alpha-linolenic acid to achieve a synergistic effect, because salicylic acid removes the excessively thick stratum corneum, opens pores of the skin, promotes the plant essence extract with tyrosinase inhibition and the alpha-linolenic acid with antioxidant effects to better exert the effects, and also enables the whitening and moisturizing essence to have a better whitening effect.
Test example 3
Evaluation of moisture retention property: the whitening and moisturizing essence prepared in examples 1 to 5 and comparative example 1 was applied to the faces of 60 persons who had dry skin or were believed to have dry skin in the age of 30 to 40 years. Before the start of application, the skin moisture content of each subject was measured under conditions of constant temperature and constant humidity (24 ℃ and 40% humidity) using a skin moisture tester and used as a reference value. Skin moisture content was measured at 1h, 4h, 8h after application, 5 groups of the same formulation were tested and averaged. The measurement results are shown in table 3 below.
The principle of the measurement method using the skin moisture tester is as follows: the moisturizing performance was determined by measuring the water ionicity in the skin epidermis using a sensor, the measurement results were expressed as numerical values, and the moisture content was calculated.
(1) Placing a probe of a skin moisture tester at a skin part to be tested;
(2) when the probe is pressed against the skin, the capacitance of the skin will be displayed on the screen by the sensor in numerical values;
(3) after one measurement, the sensor was wiped with a dust-free paper, and then another measurement was performed.
TABLE 3 evaluation results of moisture retention Properties
From the above results, it can be seen that in the case of applying the whitening and moisturizing essence of examples 2 to 5, the difference in skin moisture content 1 hour after application was more increased than that of example 1 and comparative example 1, and the increased skin moisturizing performance lasted for 8 hours or more. The reason is that the plant essence extract and the skin conditioner are added into the whitening and moisturizing lotion to increase the moisturizing and water-locking effects of the skin, the plant essence extract is easy to be absorbed by the skin, has good moisturizing and water-retaining effects on the facial skin, does not generate greasy feeling when being used, and is dry and comfortable after being used; due to the ingenious matching of the components, the skin care product can penetrate into the bottom layer of the skin, effectively resist a dry environment, recover the elastic and lusterless skin and moisten and tender the skin, so that the skin care product has the effects of moisturizing, protecting the skin and brightening the skin, has whitening and antioxidant effects, and is safe and non-irritant to the skin of a human body; meanwhile, the salicylic acid has the function of removing cutin, can dissolve the constitutional substances among the cutins to ensure that the cutin falls off, so that the excessively thick cutin can be removed, and the metabolism is promoted. The salicylic acid is fat-soluble, can permeate into the deep layer of pores along sebaceous glands secreting grease, is beneficial to dissolving old accumulated cuticle in the pores and improving the situation of pore blockage, so that acne can be blocked and the expanded pores can be reduced, so that substances with moisture retention can enter the skin more easily, and the moisture retention performance of the skin is improved.
The above description is only for the purpose of illustrating the preferred embodiments of the present invention and is not to be construed as limiting the invention, and any modifications, equivalents, improvements and the like that fall within the spirit and principle of the present invention are intended to be included therein.
Claims (10)
1. The whitening and moisturizing essence is characterized by comprising the following raw materials: glycerol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, deionized water, gamma-polyglutamic acid, carbomer, water-soluble fullerene, ascorbyl glucoside, p-hydroxyacetophenone, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, sodium hyaluronate, 1, 2-pentanediol, nicotinamide and plant essence extract.
2. The whitening and moisturizing essence of claim 1, which is prepared from the following raw materials: glycerin, 1, 3-propylene glycol, deionized water, gamma-polyglutamic acid, carbomer, water-soluble fullerene, ascorbyl glucoside, p-hydroxyacetophenone, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, sodium hyaluronate, 1, 2-pentanediol, nicotinamide, plant essence extract and skin conditioner.
3. The whitening and moisturizing essence of claim 2, which is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 3-6 parts of glycerol, 3-8 parts of 1, 3-propylene glycol, 60-80 parts of deionized water, 0.5-1 part of gamma-polyglutamic acid, 0.2-1 part of carbomer, 10-30 parts of water-soluble fullerene, 1-3 parts of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.1-1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.5-4 parts of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.1-1 part of sodium hyaluronate, 0.5-2 parts of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.5-2 parts of nicotinamide, 1-10 parts of plant essence extract and 0.1-5 parts of skin conditioner.
4. The whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the plant essence extract is prepared by the following method:
(1) pretreatment: cleaning lacquer trees and rhodiola rosea with deionized water, placing the washed lacquer trees and rhodiola rosea in a forced air drying box for drying for 8-20h at 35-70 ℃, crushing and sieving with a sieve of 200-400 meshes to obtain mixed powder, adding the deionized water, performing ultrasonic treatment for 40-60min at the ultrasonic power of 160-300W and the frequency of 30-50kHz and the heating temperature of 70-100 ℃ in a mass ratio of 1 (1-10), taking out and cooling to 30-37 ℃ to obtain mixed liquid A;
(2) preparing fermentation liquor: sequentially adding glutamine and glucose into the mixed solution A, wherein the D-glutamine accounts for 1-5 wt% of the mixed solution A, the glucose accounts for 15-20 wt% of the mixed solution A, and adding citric acid to adjust the pH value to 5.0-5.5 to obtain fermentation liquor;
(3) fermentation: inoculating 1-5 wt% of zymocyte in fermentation liquid, fermenting at constant temperature of 25-32 ℃ and stirring at 100-;
(4) and (3) drying: adding deionized water with the same quality as the fermented product into the fermented product, aging at 80-120 deg.C for 1-3 hr, filtering, and freeze drying the filtrate to obtain plant essence extract.
5. The whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 4, wherein the Rhus verniciflua Stokes and the rhodiola rosea are mixed according to a mass ratio of (1-3): 1, in a mixture of the components.
6. The whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 4, wherein the fermentation bacteria in the step (3) are one or two of yeast and Aspergillus niger.
7. The whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the skin conditioner is any one of hydroxypropyl- β -cyclodextrin or hydroxypropyl- β -cyclodextrin inclusion.
8. The whitening and moisturizing essence according to claim 7, wherein the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin inclusion compound is prepared by the following steps: weighing 5-15 parts by weight of hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin, adding 20-40 parts by weight of deionized water, stirring at 300-600rpm and 30-50 ℃ for 3-8min, adding 2-5 parts by weight of 40-60 wt% ethanol solution of organic acid while stirring, continuing stirring at 300-600rpm and 40-60 ℃ for 1-3h, cooling to room temperature, refrigerating in a 0-10 ℃ refrigerator for 20-30h, filtering with a 0.45 mu m organic microporous filter membrane, washing the precipitate with 30 parts by weight of deionized water, centrifuging, and vacuum drying at 40-70 ℃ for 10-20h to obtain the hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin inclusion compound.
9. The whitening and moisturizing essence of claim 8, wherein the organic acid is salicylic acid and/or alpha-linolenic acid.
10. The method for preparing the whitening and moisturizing essence according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising the following steps:
s1, weighing the raw materials in parts by weight;
s2, uniformly mixing deionized water, gamma-polyglutamic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, water-soluble fullerene, ascorbyl glucoside and nicotinamide, and stirring at 1000-1400rpm and 60-70 ℃ for 10-30min to obtain a mixture A;
s3, uniformly mixing glycerol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, sodium hyaluronate and 1, 2-pentanediol, and stirring at 900-1400rpm at 60-80 ℃ for 10-30min to obtain a mixture B;
s4, adding the mixture B into an emulsification and homogenization device, adding the mixture A, homogenizing for 10-20S at 3000-5000rpm, cooling, adding carbomer, plant essence extract and skin conditioner, and mixing at 200-400rpm for 10-20min at normal temperature to obtain an emulsion C;
s5, homogenizing the emulsion C for 2-5min by using an ultrahigh pressure homogenizer at a homogenizing pressure of 120-.
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