CN113194918A - 用于毛发的沉积体系 - Google Patents
用于毛发的沉积体系 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN113194918A CN113194918A CN201980085340.XA CN201980085340A CN113194918A CN 113194918 A CN113194918 A CN 113194918A CN 201980085340 A CN201980085340 A CN 201980085340A CN 113194918 A CN113194918 A CN 113194918A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- hair
- isopropyl
- carbon atoms
- ethyl
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 230000008021 deposition Effects 0.000 title abstract description 12
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 97
- 230000003750 conditioning effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 239000003094 microcapsule Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000004667 Diesterquat Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 24
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 22
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 14
- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000000151 deposition Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 125000001449 isopropyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 8
- 125000001436 propyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 8
- 229920002396 Polyurea Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000000484 butyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000000959 isobutyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000000999 tert-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- ZSJLDIQUYHNGLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N dimethyl(propan-2-yl)azanium methyl sulfate Chemical compound COS(=O)(=O)[O-].C(C)(C)[NH+](C)C ZSJLDIQUYHNGLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000004417 unsaturated alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920003180 amino resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000001449 anionic compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910001412 inorganic anion Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000002891 organic anions Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000768 polyamine Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001228 polyisocyanate Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000005056 polyisocyanate Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000003699 hair surface Effects 0.000 abstract 1
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- -1 ester quaternary ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 19
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- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- ROSDSFDQCJNGOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dimethylamine Chemical compound CNC ROSDSFDQCJNGOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 6
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- WOWHHFRSBJGXCM-UHFFFAOYSA-M cetyltrimethylammonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C WOWHHFRSBJGXCM-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 6
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 6
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- YSJGOMATDFSEED-UHFFFAOYSA-M behentrimonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C YSJGOMATDFSEED-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 5
- 150000001783 ceramides Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 5
- 125000001183 hydrocarbyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
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- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 4
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- WWVIUVHFPSALDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]octadecanamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCCN(C)C WWVIUVHFPSALDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-butenedioic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=CC(O)=O VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N Dextrotartaric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C(O)=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N 0.000 description 3
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 125000001797 benzyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(C([H])=C1[H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 3
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- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 3
- CXWXQJXEFPUFDZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetralin Chemical compound C1=CC=C2CCCCC2=C1 CXWXQJXEFPUFDZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- QMVPMAAFGQKVCJ-SNVBAGLBSA-N (R)-(+)-citronellol Natural products OCC[C@H](C)CCC=C(C)C QMVPMAAFGQKVCJ-SNVBAGLBSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WRMNZCZEMHIOCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenylethanol Chemical compound OCCC1=CC=CC=C1 WRMNZCZEMHIOCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BJLRAKFWOUAROE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2500-83-6 Chemical compound C12C=CCC2C2CC(OC(=O)C)C1C2 BJLRAKFWOUAROE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- UWKAYLJWKGQEPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3,7-dimethylocta-1,6-dien-3-yl acetate Chemical compound CC(C)=CCCC(C)(C=C)OC(C)=O UWKAYLJWKGQEPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- YCIXWYOBMVNGTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-Methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone Natural products CCCCCC1=C(C)CCC1=O YCIXWYOBMVNGTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 9-Heptadecensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZCTQGTTXIYCGGC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzyl salicylate Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)OCC1=CC=CC=C1 ZCTQGTTXIYCGGC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 241000402754 Erythranthe moschata Species 0.000 description 2
- KIWBPDUYBMNFTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl hydrogen sulfate Chemical compound CCOS(O)(=O)=O KIWBPDUYBMNFTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- GLZPCOQZEFWAFX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Geraniol Chemical compound CC(C)=CCCC(C)=CCO GLZPCOQZEFWAFX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N Glucose Natural products OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000012695 Interfacial polymerization Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000005642 Oleic acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tartaric acid Natural products [H+].[H+].[O-]C(=O)C(O)C(O)C([O-])=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229940022663 acetate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 235000011054 acetic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002671 adjuvant Substances 0.000 description 2
- IGODOXYLBBXFDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N alpha-Terpinyl acetate Chemical compound CC(=O)OC(C)(C)C1CCC(C)=CC1 IGODOXYLBBXFDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- RDOXTESZEPMUJZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N anisole Chemical compound COC1=CC=CC=C1 RDOXTESZEPMUJZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004599 antimicrobial Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 description 2
- YZXBAPSDXZZRGB-DOFZRALJSA-N arachidonic acid Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCC(O)=O YZXBAPSDXZZRGB-DOFZRALJSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QUKGYYKBILRGFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzyl acetate Chemical compound CC(=O)OCC1=CC=CC=C1 QUKGYYKBILRGFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- SESFRYSPDFLNCH-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzyl benzoate Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=O)OCC1=CC=CC=C1 SESFRYSPDFLNCH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N beta-D-glucose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-VFUOTHLCSA-N 0.000 description 2
- JGQFVRIQXUFPAH-UHFFFAOYSA-N beta-citronellol Natural products OCCC(C)CCCC(C)=C JGQFVRIQXUFPAH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 2
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- HQKQRXZEXPXXIG-VJOHVRBBSA-N chembl2333940 Chemical compound C1[C@]23[C@H](C)CC[C@H]3C(C)(C)[C@H]1[C@@](OC(C)=O)(C)CC2 HQKQRXZEXPXXIG-VJOHVRBBSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- JOZKFWLRHCDGJA-UHFFFAOYSA-N citronellol acetate Chemical compound CC(=O)OCCC(C)CCC=C(C)C JOZKFWLRHCDGJA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- BLBJUGKATXCWET-UHFFFAOYSA-N cyclaprop Chemical compound C12CC=CC2C2CC(OC(=O)CC)C1C2 BLBJUGKATXCWET-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- KSMVZQYAVGTKIV-UHFFFAOYSA-N decanal Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC=O KSMVZQYAVGTKIV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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Abstract
毛发处理组合物提供改善的微囊沉积和有益剂至毛发表面的递送，所述毛发处理组合物包含：a)调理基质，其包含：i)具有16至32个碳原子的阳离子调理表面活性剂；ii)具有8至22个碳原子的脂肪醇；和b)0.1至10重量％的微囊，其中包含有益剂的核被包封在聚合物壳中；和(c)0.1至5重量％的二酯季铵盐。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及含有二酯季铵盐的毛发处理组合物，以及这些组合物将微囊沉积在毛发表面上的用途。
背景技术
在个人护理组合物如毛发调理剂中，有益剂的沉积和递送通常是产品性能的关键驱动力。例如，目前市场上的许多调理剂产品通过在洗涤和护理过程期间将有益剂如香料材料、硅酮和损伤修复活性物质沉积到毛发上而向毛发递送益处。
已经采用了各种技术来增强有益剂在期望时间的递送。一种广泛使用的技术是将有益剂包封在保护性涂层如聚合物材料中。聚合物材料可保护有益剂，如香料材料，在使用之前免于蒸发、反应、氧化或以其它方式消散。
然而，由于组合物的洗去性质，在洗涤和护理期间使包封物沉积最大化是一项困难的任务。当洗去包封物时，可需要相对高含量的包封有益剂在组合物中以递送用户期望的益处。
因此，需要一种毛发组合物，其提供包封的有益剂在毛发或皮肤上增加的沉积，而不损害其它产品属性，例如流变学、感官和调理性能。
US2016081907(Evonik)公开了含有液体酯季铵盐和/或咪唑啉鎓盐的毛发制剂，通过加入卡波姆或其它聚合物使其长期稳定。US2016083333公开了用于化妆处理角蛋白纤维的含有混合酯季铵盐的化妆品制剂。
DE102015223028(Henkel)公开了一种用于处理角蛋白纤维的化妆品组合物，其在化妆品载体中含有a)至少一种基于总组合物的重量计0.01-20.0重量％的量的特定的酯季铵盐，和b)至少一种0.01-20.0重量％的量的另外的不同于a)的阳离子和/或可阳离子化的化合物。
已经发现，特定酯季铵盐与微囊在毛发处理组合物中的组合提供了微囊向毛发的改善的沉积。
发明内容
在第一方面，本发明提供一种毛发处理组合物，其包含：
a)调理基质，其包含：
i)具有16至32个碳原子的阳离子调理表面活性剂；
ii)具有8至22个碳原子的脂肪醇；和
b)0.1至10重量％的微囊，其中包含有益剂的核被包封在聚合物壳中；
其中所述组合物还包含：
(c)0.1至5重量％的二酯季铵盐(diesterquat)。
在第二方面，本发明提供一种处理毛发的方法，其包括向所述毛发施用本发明的第一方面的组合物。
在第三方面，本发明提供二酯季铵盐将微囊沉积在毛发上的用途，所述微囊包含被包封在聚合物壳中的包含有益剂的核。
具体实施方式
包封的有益剂
本发明的组合物包含微囊，其中包含有益剂的核被包封在聚合物壳中。
微囊优选以总组合物的0.1至5重量％的量存在。
在本发明上下文中的术语“有益剂”包括可以向毛发和/或头皮提供益处的材料以及有益地引入毛发处理组合物中的那些材料，例如美学剂。
微囊的核的有益剂可以合适地选自香料、化妆品活性成分如抗微生物剂、去头屑剂、保湿剂、调理剂、防晒剂、生理清凉剂和润肤油；及其混合物。
优选地，微囊核的有益剂选自香料。香料通常由大量香料材料的混合物组成，每种香料均具有气味或香味。香料中香料物质的数量通常为10或更多。香料中使用的芳香材料的范围非常广泛；该材料来自各种化学类别，但通常是水不溶性的油。在许多情况下，香料材料的分子量超过150，但不超过300。
用于本发明的香料材料的实例包括香叶醇、乙酸香叶酯、芳樟醇、乙酸芳樟醇、四氢芳樟醇、香茅醇、乙酸香茅酯、二氢月桂烯醇、乙酸二氢月桂烯酯、四氢月桂烯醇、萜品醇、乙酸萜品酯、乙酸诺卜酯、2-苯基-乙醇、乙酸2-戊基乙酯、苄醇、乙酸苄酯、水杨酸苄酯、乙酸苏合香酯(styrallyl acetate)、苯甲酸苄酯、水杨酸戊酯、二甲基苄基-甲醇、乙酸三氯甲基苯基-卡宾酯、乙酸对叔丁基环己酯、乙酸异壬酯、乙酸香根酯、香根醇、α-己基肉桂醛、2-甲基-3-对叔丁基己基酯)丙醛、2-甲基-3-(对异丙基苯基)丙醛、2-(对叔丁基己基酯)丙醛、2,4-二甲基-环己-3-烯基-甲醛、乙酸三环癸烯酯、丙酸三环癸烯酯、4-(4-羟基-4-甲基戊酯)-3-环己烯甲醛、4-(4-甲基-3-戊烯基)-3-环己烯甲醛、4-乙酰氧基-3-戊基-四氢吡喃、3-羧甲基-2-戊基环戊烷、2-正戊基环戊酮、3-甲基-2-戊基-2-环戊烯酮、正癸醛、正-月桂醛、9-癸烯醇-1苯氧基乙基异丁酸酯、苯基乙醛二甲基缩醛、苯基乙醛缩乙醛、香叶腈、香茅腈、乙酸柏木酯、3-异樟脑基环己醇、柏木基甲基醚(cedryl methyl ether)、异长叶烷桐、茴香腈(aubepine nitrile)、茴香醛、胡椒醛、香豆素、丁香酚、香草醛、二苯醚、羟基香茅醛、紫罗兰酮、甲基紫罗兰酮、异甲基紫罗兰酮、鸢尾酮、顺式-3-己烯醇及其酯、茚满麝香、萘满麝香、异色满麝香(isochroman musks)、大环酮、大环内酯麝香、巴西酸亚乙酯及其混合物。
可以包含在微囊的核中的任选的其它材料包括染料、颜料、防腐剂和载体。
微囊的聚合物壳可以使用界面聚合制备。
界面聚合由存在于油相中的至少一种油溶性成壁材料与存在于水相中的至少一种水溶性成壁材料的反应产生包封的壳。两种成壁材料之间发生聚合反应，导致在油相和水相的界面处形成共价键，从而形成胶囊壁。
优选地，微囊的聚合物壳是氨基塑料树脂，选自由聚异氰酸酯与选自聚胺、聚亚胺或其混合物的材料反应形成的聚脲。
优选地，微囊通过剪切来活化；也就是说，它们通过剪切来破裂以释放内容物。
一种特别优选的微囊具有聚脲壳，如US2013/0330292A1和US2012/0148644A1中所述制备的，并且可以从International Flavors&Fragrances Inc获得。
有利地，聚合物壳占按微囊的重量计至多20重量％。
通过改变制备条件，可以以已知的方式制备期望尺寸的微囊。微囊通常具有在1至500微米，优选1至300微米，更优选1至50微米，最优选1至10微米范围内的平均直径。如果需要，可以将最初制备的微囊过滤或筛分以得到尺寸均匀性更大的产品。
在根据本发明的典型组合物中，微囊的含量通常为基于组合物的总重量计的0.2至2重量％，优选0.5至1.5重量％。
阳离子调理表面活性剂
调理剂组合物将包含化妆品可接受的且适用于局部施用至毛发的阳离子调理表面活性剂。
优选地，阳离子调理表面活性剂具有式N+(R1)(R2)(R3)(R4)，其中R1、R2、R3和R4独立地为(C1至C30)烷基或苄基。
优选地，R1、R2、R3和R4中的一个、两个或三个独立地为(C4至C30)烷基，且其它R1、R2、R3和R4基团为(C1-C6)烷基或苄基。
更优选地，R1、R2、R3和R4中的一个或两个独立地为(C6至C30)烷基，且其它R1、R2、R3和R4基团为(C1-C6)烷基或苯甲基。任选地，烷基可以在烷基链内包含一个或多个酯(-OCO-或-COO-)和/或醚(-O-)键。烷基可以任选地被一个或多个羟基取代。烷基可以是直链或支链的，对于具有3个或更多个碳原子的烷基，可以是环状的。烷基可以是饱和的或可以含有一个或多个碳-碳双键(例如，油酰基)。烷基任选地在烷基链上被一个或多个亚乙基氧基基团乙氧基化。
用于根据本发明的调理剂组合物的合适的阳离子调理表面活性剂包括鲸蜡基三甲基氯化铵(CTAC)、山嵛基三甲基氯化铵(BTAC)、鲸蜡基氯化吡啶、四甲基氯化铵、四乙基氯化铵、辛基三甲基氯化铵、十二烷基三甲基氯化铵、十六烷基三甲基氯化铵、辛基二甲基苄基氯化铵、癸基二甲基苄基氯化铵、硬脂基二甲基苄基氯化铵、双十二烷基二甲基氯化铵、双十八烷基二甲基氯化铵、牛油三甲基氯化铵、二氢化牛油二甲基氯化铵(例如，来自Akzo Nobel的Arquad2 HT/75)、椰油基三甲基氯化铵、PEG-2-油基氯化铵及其相应的氢氧化物。另外合适的阳离子表面活性剂包括具有CTFA名称Quaternium-5、Quaternium-31和Quaternium-18的那些材料。任何上述材料的混合物也可以是合适的。一种用于根据本发明的调理剂的特别有用的阳离子表面活性剂是鲸蜡基三甲基氯化铵，例如可作为GENAMINCTAC商购自Hoechst Celanese。用于根据本发明的调理剂中的另一种特别有用的阳离子表面活性剂是山嵛基三甲基氯化铵，例如可作为GENAMIN KDMP商购自Clariant。优选地，阳离子表面活性剂选自鲸蜡基三甲基氯化铵和山嵛基三甲基氯化铵，最优选山嵛基三甲基氯化铵。
用于本发明的一类合适的阳离子调理表面活性剂的另一个实例(单独或与一种或多种其它阳离子调理表面活性剂一起)是以下(i)和(ii)的组合：
(i)对应于通式(II)的酰氨基胺：
R1CONH(CH2)mN(R2)R3 (II)
其中R1是具有10个或更多个碳原子的烃基链，R2和R3独立地选自具有1至10个碳原子的烃基链，和m为1至约10的整数；和
(ii)酸。
如本文使用的术语烃基链是指烷基或烯基链。
优选的酰氨基胺化合物是对应于式(I)的那些，其中
R1是具有约11至约24个碳原子的烃基残基，
R2和R3各自独立地是具有1至约4个碳原子的烃基残基，优选烷基，和m是1至约4的整数。
优选地，R2和R3是甲基或乙基。
优选地，m是2或3，即亚乙基或亚丙基。
本文有用的优选的酰氨基胺包括硬脂酰氨丙基二甲基胺，硬脂酰氨丙基二乙基胺，硬脂酰氨基乙基二乙基胺，硬脂酰氨基乙基二甲基胺，棕榈酰氨丙基二甲基胺，棕榈酰氨丙基二乙基胺，棕榈酰氨基乙基二乙基胺，棕榈酰氨基乙基二甲基胺，山嵛酰氨丙基二甲基胺，山嵛酰氨丙基二乙基胺，山嵛酰氨基乙基二乙基胺，山嵛酰氨基乙基二甲基胺，花生酰氨丙基二甲基胺，花生酰氨丙基二乙基胺，花生酰氨基乙基二乙基胺，花生酰氨基乙基二甲基胺，及其混合物。
本文有用的特别优选的酰氨基胺是硬脂酰氨丙基二甲基胺，硬脂酰氨基乙基二乙基胺及其混合物。
可用于本文的可商购酰氨基胺包括：可获自Inolex(PhiladelphiaPennsylvania，USA)的商品名为LEXAMINE S-13和可获自Nikko(Tokyo，Japan)的商品名为AMIDOAMINE MSP的硬脂酰氨丙基二甲基胺，可获自Nikko的商品名为AMIDOAMINE S的硬脂酰氨基乙基二乙基胺，可获自Croda(North Humberside，England)的商品名为INCROMINEBB的山嵛酰氨丙基二甲基胺，和可获自Scher(Clifton New Jersey，USA)的商品名SCHERCODINE系列的各种酰氨基胺。
酸可以是能够使调理剂组合物中的酰氨基胺质子化的任何有机或无机酸。本文有用的合适的酸包括盐酸、乙酸、酒石酸、富马酸、乳酸、苹果酸、琥珀酸及其混合物。优选地，酸选自乙酸、酒石酸、盐酸、富马酸、乳酸及其混合物。
酸的主要作用是使毛发处理组合物中的酰氨基胺质子化，从而在毛发处理组合物中原位形成叔胺盐(TAS)。TAS实际上是非永久性的季铵或假季铵阳离子表面活性剂。
合适地，酸以足以使存在的超过95摩尔％(293K)的酰氨基胺质子化的量被包含。
在用于本发明的调理剂中，阳离子调理表面活性剂的水平基于组合物的总重量按阳离子调理表面活性剂的总重量计将通常为0.01至10％，更优选0.05至7.5％，最优选0.1至5％。
脂肪醇
本发明的组合物包含具有C8至C22的碳-碳链长度的脂肪醇。
脂肪醇和阳离子表面活性剂在调理组合物中的组合使用是优选的，因为这导致形成其中分散有阳离子表面活性剂的层状相。
脂肪醇包含8至22个碳原子，优选16至22个碳原子，最优选C16至C18。脂肪醇通常是含有直链烷基的化合物。优选地，烷基是饱和的。优选的脂肪醇的实例包括鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇及其混合物。这些材料的使用也是有利的，因为它们对用于本发明的组合物的整体调理性质做出贡献。
用于本发明的调理剂中的脂肪醇的水平按组合物重量计通常为0.01至10％，优选0.1至8％，更优选0.2至7％，最优选0.3至6％。
阳离子表面活性剂与脂肪醇的重量比适合地是1:1至1:10，优选1:1.5至1:8，最佳为1:2至1:5。如果阳离子表面活性剂与脂肪醇的重量比太高，则这可导致来自组合物的眼部刺激。如果它太低，它可对于一些用户造成毛发吱吱作响(squeaky)的感觉。
硅酮
本发明的组合物优选含有硅酮调理剂的乳化液滴，用于增强调理性能。
合适的硅酮包括聚二有机硅氧烷，特别是具有CTFA名称二甲基聚硅氧烷的聚二甲基硅氧烷。还适用于本发明的组合物(特别是洗发剂和调理剂)是具有羟基端基的聚二甲基硅氧烷类，其具有CTFA名称聚二甲基硅氧烷醇。还适用于本发明的组合物中的是具有轻度交联的硅酮树胶，如例如WO 96/31188(UNILEVER)中所述。优选地，硅酮选自聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷醇、氨端聚二甲基硅氧烷及其混合物。还优选的是氨基官能化硅酮与聚二甲基硅氧烷的混合物。
乳化硅酮本身(不是乳液或最终毛发调理组合物)的粘度在25℃下通常为至少10,000cSt。硅酮本身的粘度优选为至少60,000cSt，最优选至少500,000cSt，理想地至少1,000,000cSt。优选地，为了便于配制，粘度不超过109cSt。
用于本发明的洗发剂组合物的乳化硅酮将通常在组合物中具有小于30，优选小于20，更优选小于10微米的D90硅酮液滴尺寸，理想地0.01至1微米。具有平均硅酮液滴尺寸(D50)0.15微米的乳化硅油通常称为微乳液。
硅酮粒径可以利用激光散射技术测量，例如使用来自Malvern Instruments的2600D Particle Sizer。
合适的预形成乳液的实例包括从Dow Corning获得的Xiameter MEM 1785和微乳液DC2-1865。这些是二甲聚硅氧烷醇的乳液/微乳液。交联的硅酮树胶也以预乳化形式可获得，其对于便于配制而言是有利的。
一种包含在本发明的洗发剂和调理剂中的进一步优选种类的硅酮是氨基官能硅酮。“氨基官能硅酮”指含有至少一个伯、仲和叔胺基团、或季铵基团。合适的氨基官能硅酮的实例包括：具有CTFA名称“氨端聚二甲基硅氧烷”的聚硅氧烷。一种优选的聚二甲基硅氧烷可作为DC7134从Dow Corning商购获得。
适用于本发明的氨基官能硅酮的特定实例是氨基硅油DC2-8220、DC2-8166和DC2-8566(全部来自Dow Corning)。
合适的季硅酮聚合物描述在EP-A-0 530 974中。一种优选的季硅酮聚合物为K3474，来自Goldschmidt。
还合适的是氨基官能硅酮油与非离子和/或阳离子表面活性剂的乳液。
氨基官能硅酮的预形成乳液也是从硅油的供应商获得的，如Dow Corning和General Electric。特定的实例包括DC939 Cationic Emulsion非离子乳液DC2-7224、DC2-8467、DC2-8177和DC2-8154(全部来自Dow Corning)。
硅酮的总量优选为总组合物的0.1重量％至10重量％，更优选0.1重量％至5重量％，最优选0.5重量％至3重量％是合适的水平。
二酯季铵盐
本发明的组合物包含至少一种酯季铵盐，优选具有以下(I)所示的结构：
R3和R4为-X-O-CO-R5。
其中，各自彼此独立的基团R1、R2可以相同或不同。
基团R1、R2表示：
具有1至4个碳原子的支链或非支链烷基，优选选自甲基、乙基、丙基、异丙基、丁基、叔丁基或异丁基，更优选甲基、乙基、丙基和异丙基，最优选甲基。
R3和R4由-X-O-CO-R5表示，其中：
X是具有1至4个碳原子的支链或非支链烷基，优选选自甲基、乙基、丙基、异丙基、丁基、叔丁基或异丁基，更优选乙基、丙基或异丙基，最优选选自乙基和异丙基。
R5选自饱和的支链或非支链的、不饱和的支链或非支链的、或环状饱和的或不饱和的烷基，各自具有6至30个、优选12至24个、更优选14至20个碳原子，且其可以含有羟基。
R5优选选自饱和的或不饱和的支链烷基，更优选饱和的支链烷基。
A是生理学相容的有机或无机阴离子。A选自卤离子、氟离子、氯离子、溴离子、碘离子、通式RSO3 -的硫酸根，其中R是具有1-4个碳原子的饱和的或不饱和的烷基，与有机酸的阴离子基团，例如马来酸根、富马酸根、草酸根、酒石酸根、柠檬酸根、乳酸根或乙酸根。优选的硫酸根是甲基硫酸根和乙基硫酸根。最优选地，A-选自氯离子、乙基硫酸根或甲基硫酸根。
在一个优选的实施方式中，R3和R4具有-X-，其选自乙基和异丙基，R5具有选自i)链长为C18或C16的支链的饱和的链，和ii)链长为C18或C16的非支链的、不饱和的或饱和的链。
这样的化合物的实例优选是二油酰基异丙基二甲基铵甲基硫酸盐、二油酰基异丙基二甲基氯化铵、二棕榈酰基异丙基二甲基铵甲基硫酸盐、二棕榈酰基异丙基二甲基氯化铵、双(异硬脂酰基/油酰基异丙基)二甲基铵甲基硫酸盐、双(异硬脂酰基/油酰基异丙基)二甲基氯化铵。
一种高度优选的化合物的名称为双(异硬脂酰基/油酰基异丙基)二甲基硫酸铵，按照INCI命名法将其命名为Quaternium-98，且可从Evonik以名称Varisoft(R)EQ100商购获得。一种进一步优选的化合物也可以以名称
EQ65购自Evonik。
基于组合物的总重量，对应于式(I)的酯季铵盐在本发明组合物中的存在量为0.1至5重量％，优选0.1至2，更优选0.5至1.5，甚至更优选0.5至1.2，最优选0.6至1重量％。
其它成分
根据本发明的组合物可以包含调理组合物常用的许多成分中的任一种。
这些其它的成分可以包括粘度调节剂、防腐剂、着色剂、多元醇如甘油和聚丙二醇、螯合剂如EDTA、抗氧化剂如乙酸维生素E、芳香剂、抗微生物剂和遮光剂。这些成分中的每一种都将以有效实现其目的量存在。通常，这些任选成分分别以按总组合物的重量计至多约5％的水平被包括。
优选地，本发明的组合物还包含适用于毛发护理的助剂。通常，这样的成分各自以按总组合物的重量计至多2％，优选地至多1％的水平存在。
在合适的毛发护理助剂中的是：
(i)天然发根营养物如氨基酸类和糖类。合适的氨基酸的实例包括精氨酸、半胱氨酸、谷氨酰胺、谷氨酸、异亮氨酸、亮氨酸、甲硫氨酸、丝氨酸和缬氨酸、和/或其前体及其衍生物。氨基酸可以单独加入、以混合物加入、或者以肽例如二肽和三肽的形式加入。氨基酸也可以以蛋白质水解物如角蛋白或胶原水解产物的形式加入。合适的糖类为葡萄糖、右旋糖和果糖。这些可以单独加入或以例如水果提取物的形式加入。
(ii)毛发纤维有益剂。实例是：
-神经酰胺，用于润湿纤维和保持角质层完整性。神经酰胺可以是通过从天然来源提取获得，或者作为合成神经酰胺和拟神经酰胺获得。一种优选的神经酰胺是神经酰胺II，来自Quest。神经酰胺的混合物也可以是合适的，如Ceramides LS,来自LaboratoiresSerobiologiques。
-游离脂肪酸，用于角质层修复和损伤预防。实例是支链脂肪酸，例如18-甲基花生酸和该系列的其它同系物，直链脂肪酸如硬脂酸、肉豆蔻酸和棕榈酸，以及不饱和脂肪酸如油酸、亚油酸、亚麻酸和花生四烯酸。一种优选的脂肪酸是油酸。脂肪酸可以单独加入，作为混合物加入，或以得自例如羊毛脂的提取物的共混物的形式加入。
也可以使用任一种上述活性成分的混合物。
在第二方面，提供一种用于制备根据第一方面的调理组合物的方法。所述方法包括形成包含阳离子表面活性剂和脂肪材料的调理凝胶相，并单独形成疏水改性聚合物的溶液，任选地与阳离子表面活性剂(如果存在，首先将其加入水中)一起。
然后，将两种混合物添加到彼此，之后加入剩余成分以形成调理组合物。
优选地，额外的成分包括香味剂、增稠剂和防腐剂。
现将通过以下非限制性实施例说明本发明。
实施例
现将通过以下非限制性实施例说明本发明。
实施例1：用于在微囊沉积分析之前处理毛发的组合物
使用三种毛发调理剂制剂处理毛发。组合物A是比较组合物，而1和2是根据本发明的组合物。组合物在表1中给出。
表1：调理剂A、B和C的组成
通过将阳离子表面活性剂加入脂肪醇中并在85℃下搅拌来制备制剂。将该混合物逐渐加入水中，通常在55℃下，使得混合物的温度为60℃。将该温度保持30分钟，同时搅拌。然后，通过加入更多的水，并加入剩余的成分，以及如果需要的话使用外部冷却，并搅拌，将混合物冷却至环境温度。
实施例2：用组合物A、1和2处理毛发并根据本发明测量包封沉积使用的毛发为深褐色欧洲人毛发，0.25g重和2英寸长的发束。
用组合物A、1和2处理毛发，如下：
首先，使用以下方法用清洁洗发剂处理毛发：
将毛发纤维在流水下保持30秒，以每1g毛发0.1ml洗发剂的剂量施用洗发剂，并按摩到毛发中30秒。通过在流水下保持30秒除去过量的泡沫，并重复洗发剂阶段。将毛发在流水下冲洗30秒。
然后，使用以下方法，用调理剂A或B或C处理湿发：
以每1g毛发0.2g调理剂的剂量将调理剂施用于湿发上，并按摩到毛发中1分钟。将所述毛发在流水下冲洗1分钟，并除去过量的水。在室温下，将毛发干燥过夜。
对于每种调理剂，制备5个重复的毛发发束。将每个发束切到小瓶中，称重，加入所需量的溶剂，并提取1小时。将每个提取物与一组沉积效率为100％至3％的校准标准品一起移液到96孔微升板中，以进行荧光光谱分析。
在用调理剂A、1和2处理的发束上测量的微囊沉积效率显示在表2中。
表2：用调理剂A、1和2处理的毛发发束上的微囊沉积效率
看到与比较例A相比，用根据本发明的调理剂1和2处理的毛发在毛发上沉积了更高水平的包封的有益剂。
Claims (12)
1.一种毛发处理组合物，其包含：
a)调理基质，其包含：
i)具有16至32个碳原子的阳离子调理表面活性剂；
ii)具有8至22个碳原子的脂肪醇；和
b)0.1至10重量％的微囊，其中包含有益剂的核被包封在聚合物壳中；
其中所述组合物还包含：
(c)0.1至5重量％的二酯季铵盐。
2.如权利要求1所述的组合物，其中所述二酯季铵盐由式(I)定义：
其中各自彼此独立的基团R1、R2可以相同或不同，且是具有1至4个碳原子的支链或非支链的烷基；
R3和R4由-X-O-CO-R5表示，其中X是具有1至4个碳原子的支链或非支链的烷基；和
R5选自饱和的支链或非支链的、不饱和的支链或非支链的、或环状的饱和的或不饱和的烷基，各自具有6至30个、优选12至24个、更优选14至20个碳原子，且其可以含有羟基；和
A-是生理学相容的有机或无机阴离子。
3.如权利要求2所述的组合物，其中R5选自饱和的或不饱和的支链烷基基团。
4.如权利要求2或权利要求3所述的组合物，其中X选自乙基和异丙基，R5具有选自i)具有C18或C16链长的支链的、饱和的链，和ii)具有C18或C16链长的非支链的、不饱和的或饱和的链。
5.如权利要求2至4中任一项所述的组合物，其中所述二酯季铵盐的基团R1、R2选自甲基、乙基、丙基、异丙基、丁基、叔丁基或异丁基，优选甲基、乙基、丙基和异丙基。
6.如权利要求2至5中任一项所述的组合物，其中X选自甲基、乙基、丙基、异丙基、丁基、叔丁基或异丁基，更优选乙基、丙基或异丙基，最优选乙基或异丙基。
7.如权利要求2至6中任一项所述的组合物，其中所述二酯季铵盐选自双异硬脂酰基异丙基二甲基铵甲基硫酸盐和双油酰基异丙基二甲基铵甲基硫酸盐。
8.如前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物，其中基于所述组合物的总重量，所述二酯季铵盐以0.5至1.2重量％的量存在。
9.如前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物，其中所述微囊是氨基塑料树脂，其选自由聚异氰酸酯与选自聚胺、聚亚胺或其混合物的材料反应形成的聚脲。
10.如权利要求9所述的组合物，其中所述微囊具有聚脲壳。
11.一种处理毛发的方法，其包括将如权利要求1至10中任一项所定义的组合物施用于所述毛发的步骤。
12.二酯季铵盐在如权利要求1至10中任一项所述的组合物中用于将包封的有益剂沉积在毛发上的用途。
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| EP1854448A2 (de) * | 2006-05-02 | 2007-11-14 | Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien | Mittel zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern mit Farbindikation der optimalen Behandlungszeit |
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| EP3403640A1 (en) * | 2017-05-18 | 2018-11-21 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Conditioner compositions with increased deposition of polyacrylate microcapsules |
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| GB9507130D0 (en) | 1995-04-06 | 1995-05-31 | Unilever Plc | Hair treatment composition |
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| GB0406819D0 (en) | 2004-03-26 | 2004-04-28 | Dow Corning | Controlled release compositions |
| US20120148644A1 (en) | 2009-09-18 | 2012-06-14 | Lewis Michael Popplewell | Encapsulated Active Materials |
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| DE102011087906A1 (de) | 2011-12-07 | 2013-06-13 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Haarpflegemittel |
| BR112016028661A2 (pt) | 2014-06-13 | 2017-08-22 | Firmenich & Cie | processo para preparar microcápsulas de poliureia com deposição melhorada |
| EP2997959B1 (de) | 2014-09-22 | 2019-12-25 | Evonik Operations GmbH | Formulierung enthaltend esterquats basierend auf isopropanolamin und tetrahydroxypropylethylenediamin |
| ES2864951T3 (es) | 2014-09-22 | 2021-10-14 | Evonik Degussa Gmbh | Emulsión que contiene esterquats líquidos y espesantes poliméricos |
| DE102015223028A1 (de) | 2015-11-23 | 2016-06-30 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Haarkonditionierende Mittel |
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- 2019-12-16 WO PCT/EP2019/085377 patent/WO2020127070A1/en unknown
- 2019-12-16 US US17/414,181 patent/US20220040062A1/en active Pending
- 2019-12-16 EP EP19817753.7A patent/EP3897543B1/en active Active
- 2019-12-16 CN CN201980085340.XA patent/CN113194918B/zh active Active
- 2019-12-16 JP JP2021535078A patent/JP2022514022A/ja active Pending
- 2019-12-16 BR BR112021012013-0A patent/BR112021012013A2/pt unknown
- 2019-12-19 AR ARP190103760A patent/AR117443A1/es unknown
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2021
- 2021-06-03 ZA ZA2021/03826A patent/ZA202103826B/en unknown
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| EP1854448A2 (de) * | 2006-05-02 | 2007-11-14 | Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien | Mittel zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern mit Farbindikation der optimalen Behandlungszeit |
| CN103458871A (zh) * | 2011-04-07 | 2013-12-18 | 宝洁公司 | 具有增强的聚丙烯酸酯微胶囊的沉积的调理剂组合物 |
| US20140246041A1 (en) * | 2011-11-23 | 2014-09-04 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Hair-conditioning agents |
| CN107982071A (zh) * | 2016-10-26 | 2018-05-04 | 日晷公司 | 具有包囊的增湿剂的护发组合物和将延长的湿气释放递送至头发的方法 |
| EP3403640A1 (en) * | 2017-05-18 | 2018-11-21 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Conditioner compositions with increased deposition of polyacrylate microcapsules |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| WO2020127070A1 (en) | 2020-06-25 |
| BR112021012013A2 (pt) | 2021-09-08 |
| ZA202103826B (en) | 2023-01-25 |
| EP3897543A1 (en) | 2021-10-27 |
| CN113194918B (zh) | 2024-02-02 |
| EP3897543B1 (en) | 2022-10-12 |
| JP2022514022A (ja) | 2022-02-09 |
| US20220040062A1 (en) | 2022-02-10 |
| AR117443A1 (es) | 2021-08-04 |
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