CN113017162B - Whole hemp lining western-style clothes complex chest lining process - Google Patents
Whole hemp lining western-style clothes complex chest lining process Download PDFInfo
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- CN113017162B CN113017162B CN202110365488.8A CN202110365488A CN113017162B CN 113017162 B CN113017162 B CN 113017162B CN 202110365488 A CN202110365488 A CN 202110365488A CN 113017162 B CN113017162 B CN 113017162B
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- chest
- interlining
- needle
- lining
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/02—Jackets
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/02—Linings
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/12—Shields or protectors
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a full linen interlining suit chest interlining process, which is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps that (1), a fabric is aligned and attached to a neckline of the full-linen chest piece; (2) fixing the shoulder raising amount; (3) fixing the dark line; (4) the needle is pulled up from the upper part of the lower pocket and fixed to the neckline for stopping; (5) lifting a needle at the front end of the neckline, inserting a rod needle with the diameter of 0.25cm from the lower hem when the bag cover is fixed to stop, and trowelling the allowance to the entrance guard; (6) the chest lining is arranged on the chest lining, the lapel is inserted into the clamp and is fixed together along the lapel line, the chest is smoothly and straightly smoothed down by the lower cloth belt to the lapel point to return the needle, and then the chest is put down to be fixed to the clean seam, and then the rod needle is drawn out; (7) lifting the front body garment piece and troweling to fix the chest lining on the side seam; (8) and (5) the thread binding in the steps (4), (5) and (6) is removed after the suit is made. The invention utilizes the rod needle to control the transverse required loose quantity, so that the fabric is matched and attached with the chest piece, and the effect of flattening and beautifying the whole front piece of the suit is achieved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to an improved whole linen lining suit, in particular to an improved whole linen lining suit chest lining process.
Background
The full-linen interlining suit has the characteristics of lightness, softness, stiffness and the like, meets the requirements of modern people on the suit, but has more complex process, particularly the lower half part of the composite chest interlining, has higher process operation requirements, and often, the operator cannot take the process looseness needed by the upper part, the lower part, the left part and the right part into consideration with both hands, so that the original flatness and formal feeling of the suit cannot be achieved. The traditional half-hemp lining chest interlining of western-style clothes can be soaked in water, dried and other shrinking processes, when the interlining is repeated, the lining is straightened by pressing the fabric tightly with hands to enable the surface to be smooth, however, the amount required in the longitudinal direction can be controlled unilaterally, the transverse amount cannot be accurately given, and in addition, the stretching amount between the fabric and the chest interlining is inconsistent, so that the lower half part of the front fly of the clothes is warped and uneven.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provide a process for compounding a full linen interlining and western-style clothes.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention is realized by adopting the following technical scheme: the process for coating the whole hemp lining on the suit is characterized in that: comprises the following steps of forming the mixture by the following steps,
(1) cleaning the wool ends of the cut pieces, arranging the silk locks of the fabric at the upper cut piece in a straight manner, transversely binding the front seam allowance keyhole position, selecting and matching the upper neckline of the full-hemp chest interlining to align, placing the front piece lapel line into a position of 1.0cm, pressing the face at the armhole position with a hand, arranging the front chest silk locks with the other hand, transversely fixing the silk locks at the positions of the towel bags with one hand, and paying attention to avoiding the bags;
(2) fixing the shoulder tilting amount: the collar is pushed 0.5cm outwards by a hand gesture, the looseness is fixed at a position about 5cm below a shoulder seam by a clamp, the looseness is fixed by starting a needle below the looseness, then the looseness is fixed upwards, the looseness is uniformly distributed, then a thread is bound downwards to a position below a towel bag, the fabric is slightly pulled tightly and pushed downwards, the bound thread is close to the chest dart and avoids the position of the bag, a return needle is bound to a lower hem clear seam to hit, the position of the bag opening is straightened, the bag opening cannot be opened, the face is tight, and the looseness of the chest lining is checked on the reverse side;
(3) and fixing a dark line: after the garment pieces are put into flat clothes, the front garment piece is lifted to fix the towel pocket cloth, the chest dart filler strip and the lower pocket thin and dark lines on the chest interlining, and when the garment pieces are fixed, the chest interlining is tightly worn downwards to enable the pocket cloth to be loose inside, and the sewing distance of 2cm is carried back;
(4) taking the breast pad to be padded at the chest part of the front piece, lifting the knitted face cloth from the upper part of the lower pocket and troweling the knitted face cloth to avoid armholes by 5-6cm, paying attention to slight upward stroking of the transverse threads of the side seams, straightening the threads of the armholes, keeping the shoulder-raising quantity, and fixing the knitted face cloth to the collar for pausing;
(5) lifting the needle at the front end of the neckline, pushing the chest amount to the lapel direction by adjusting gestures, moving the lapel line downwards, inserting a rod needle from the lower hem when the bag cover stops, and troweling the allowance to the entrance guard;
(6) the chest lining is arranged on the chest lining, the lapel is inserted into the clamp and is fixed together along the lapel line, the chest is smoothly and straightly smoothed down by the lower cloth belt to the lapel point to return the needle, and then the chest is put down to be fixed to the clean seam, and then the rod needle is drawn out;
(7) lifting the front body garment piece, troweling and fixing the chest lining on the side seam, and avoiding the upper section of the chest lining from being bound to about 6cm so as to attach sleeves;
(8) and (5) the thread binding in the steps (4), (5) and (6) is removed after the suit is made.
Preferably, the diameter of the needle is 0.25 cm.
Preferably, the full hemp bra is pre-shrunk and sprayed with water mist before being re-covered.
Preferably, when the fabric starts to be pushed down slightly and tightly in the step (2), attention needs to be paid to slightly pushing forward the locks to keep the radian of the pushing door.
Preferably, the staple line pitch is equally divided in step (6).
The improved full hemp lining suit chest lining process has the advantages that in the traditional process operation, the required transverse looseness is perfectly controlled by the prop pin, so that the fabric is matched and attached with the chest lining, and the effect of flatness and attractiveness of the whole front piece of the suit is achieved.
Drawings
The following describes embodiments of the present invention in further detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.
FIG. 1 is a schematic structural diagram of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is an inside view of the structure of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The drawings show the structure of the invention, and the details thereof are further described below with reference to the drawings. In the embodiment, the process for preparing the full-hemp liner suit chest lining comprises the following forming steps of (1) cleaning the cut pieces, arranging the silk locks of the fabric 1 on an upper cut piece smoothly, binding the front seam allowance buttonhole transversely, selecting and matching the upper collar opening 6 of the full-hemp liner chest lining 2 to align, placing the front piece lapel line 4 into a position of 1.0cm, pressing the face of an armhole by hand, arranging the front chest threads by the other hand, transversely fixing the flat silk locks at a position of a towel bag 3, and paying attention to avoiding bag cloth;
(2) and fixed shoulder tilting amount 12: the neckline 6 is pushed outwards by 0.5cm after the hand is done, the looseness is fixed at the position about 5cm below a shoulder seam by a clamp, the looseness is fixed by pulling a needle below the looseness, then the looseness is fixed upwards, the looseness is uniformly distributed, then a thread is sewn downwards to the position below a towel bag 3, the fabric 1 is slightly pulled down, the thread is sewn to the position of a lower hem clear seam to be back-stitched, thread locks at the positions of bag openings are straightened, the bag openings cannot be opened, the face is tight, and the back side breast checking lining 2 needs to have the looseness;
(3) and fixing a dark line 9: after the garment pieces are put into flat clothes, the front garment piece is lifted to fix the towel bag 3 cloth, the chest dart pad strip and the lower pocket 5 with the thin and dark lines 9 on the chest interlining 2, and when the garment pieces are fixed, the chest interlining 2 is tightly worn downwards to ensure that the bag cloth has the looseness inside and the stitch length of 2cm is back;
(4) taking the chest pad to be padded at the chest part of the front piece, lifting the knitted face cloth from the upper part of the lower pocket 5, trowelling the cloth to avoid armholes by 5-6cm, paying attention to slight upward stroking of the lateral seams 10, straightening the armholes, keeping the shoulder-raising amount 12, and fixing the shoulder pad to the collar 6 for pausing;
(5) lifting the needle at the front end of the collar 6, adjusting the gesture to push the chest towards the lapel direction, moving the lapel line 4 downwards, inserting the rod needle 8 from the lower hem when the bag cover stops, and troweling the allowance to the entrance guard 11;
(6) the chest interlining is arranged on the upper part, the lapel is inserted into the clamp 7 and is fixed together along the lapel line 4, the chest is smoothly and straightly smoothed and stapled downwards to a lapel point by the lower cloth belt to return the needle, then the chest is put downwards and fixed to a clean seam, and then the rod needle 8 is drawn out;
(7) lifting the front body garment piece, troweling, fixing the chest lining 2 on the side seam 10, avoiding the upper section by about 6cm, and not binding to the upper section so as to attach sleeves;
(8) and (5) the thread binding in the steps (4), (5) and (6) is removed after the suit is made.
As a further improved embodiment, the diameter of the needle is 0.25cm, and the needle of the size can enable the fabric 1 to have enough transverse looseness, and avoid the lower half part of the garment fly 11 from being turned up and uneven.
As a further improved embodiment, the full hemp chest piece 2 is pre-shrunk and sprayed with water mist before use.
As a further improved specific embodiment, when the fabric 1 starts to be slightly pushed down tightly in the step (2), attention needs to be paid to slightly pushing forward the locks to keep the radian of the pushing door.
As a specific embodiment of further improvement, the staple line pitch is equally divided in step (6).
According to the quality standard of the full-hemp lining western-style clothes manufactured by the invention, shoulder seams are lifted, the chest lining is uniform in looseness when viewed from the side, the face is provided with tight silk locks which are straight and regular, the looseness position of the face is prepared, the shoulder is warped naturally, the lining is firm, the tightness of the fabric and the chest lining is proper, and the chest is full and stiff.
In summary, the above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Any modification, equivalent replacement, or improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (5)
1. A process for coating a full linen interlining on a suit is characterized in that: comprises the following steps of forming the mixture by the following steps,
(1) cleaning the wool ends of the cut pieces, arranging the silk locks of the fabric at the upper cut piece in a straight manner, transversely binding the front seam allowance keyhole position, selecting and matching the upper neckline of the full-hemp chest interlining to align, placing the front piece lapel line into a position of 1.0cm, pressing the face at the armhole position with a hand, arranging the front chest silk locks with the other hand, transversely fixing the silk locks at the positions of the towel bags with one hand, and paying attention to avoiding the bags;
(2) fixing the shoulder tilting amount: the collar is pushed 0.5cm outwards by a hand gesture, the looseness is fixed at a position about 5cm below a shoulder seam by a clamp, the looseness is fixed by starting a needle below the looseness, then the looseness is fixed upwards, the looseness is uniformly distributed, then a thread is bound downwards to a position below a towel bag, the fabric is slightly pulled tightly and pushed downwards, the bound thread is close to the chest dart and avoids the position of the bag, a return needle is bound to a lower hem clear seam to hit, the position of the bag opening is straightened, the bag opening cannot be opened, the face is tight, and the looseness of the chest lining is checked on the reverse side;
(3) and fixing a dark line: after the garment pieces are put into flat clothes, the front garment piece is lifted to fix the towel pocket cloth, the chest dart filler strip and the lower pocket thin and dark lines on the chest interlining, and when the garment pieces are fixed, the chest interlining is tightly worn downwards to enable the pocket cloth to be loose inside, and the sewing distance of 2cm is carried back;
(4) taking the breast pad to be padded at the chest part of the front piece, lifting the knitted face cloth from the upper part of the lower pocket and troweling the knitted face cloth to avoid armholes by 5-6cm, paying attention to slight upward stroking of the transverse threads of the side seams, straightening the threads of the armholes, keeping the shoulder-raising quantity, and fixing the knitted face cloth to the collar for pausing;
(5) lifting the needle at the front end of the neckline, pushing the chest amount to the lapel direction by adjusting gestures, moving the lapel line downwards, inserting a rod needle from the lower hem when the bag cover stops, and troweling the allowance to the entrance guard;
(6) the chest lining is arranged on the chest lining, the lapel is inserted into the clamp and is fixed together along the lapel line, the chest is smoothly and straightly smoothed down by the lower cloth belt to the lapel point to return the needle, and then the chest is put down to be fixed to the clean seam, and then the rod needle is drawn out;
(7) lifting the front body garment piece, troweling and fixing the chest lining on the side seam, and avoiding the upper section of the chest lining from being bound to about 6cm so as to attach sleeves;
(8) and (5) the thread binding in the steps (4), (5) and (6) is removed after the suit is made.
2. The process for preparing the full linen interlining composite chest interlining of western style clothes as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the diameter of the needle is 0.25 cm.
3. The process for preparing the full linen interlining composite chest interlining of western style clothes as claimed in claim 1, wherein: before the whole hemp liner is used again, the whole hemp liner is pre-shrunk and sprayed with water mist.
4. The process for preparing the full linen interlining composite chest interlining of western style clothes as claimed in claim 1, wherein: when the fabric starts to be pushed down slightly and tightly in the step (2), attention needs to be paid to the fact that the locks are pushed forward slightly, and the radian of the push door is kept.
5. The process for preparing the full linen interlining composite chest interlining of western style clothes as claimed in claim 1, wherein: and (6) equally dividing the line space of the staple lines.
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CN202110365488.8A CN113017162B (en) | 2021-04-06 | 2021-04-06 | Whole hemp lining western-style clothes complex chest lining process |
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CN202110365488.8A CN113017162B (en) | 2021-04-06 | 2021-04-06 | Whole hemp lining western-style clothes complex chest lining process |
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CN113017162B true CN113017162B (en) | 2022-04-22 |
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CN113622094B (en) * | 2021-07-23 | 2023-07-07 | 江苏阳光股份有限公司 | Composite chest interlining template and composite chest interlining process |
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JP3692084B2 (en) * | 2002-02-13 | 2005-09-07 | マルコ株式会社 | Measurement sample for custom-made clothing and custom-made method |
CN102823964B (en) * | 2012-09-17 | 2014-08-06 | 蓝豹股份有限公司 | All-wool lining suit front and complex chest lining processing process |
CN104605564B (en) * | 2014-12-31 | 2016-11-30 | 吴国英 | A kind of chest piece method of sewing of Western-style clothes or overcoat |
CN105962494B (en) * | 2016-06-30 | 2018-01-23 | 温州庄吉服饰有限公司 | The manufacture craft of Western-style clothes full hemp liner |
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