CN112545090A - Method for making plate of women's jacket - Google Patents
Method for making plate of women's jacket Download PDFInfo
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- CN112545090A CN112545090A CN202011370680.8A CN202011370680A CN112545090A CN 112545090 A CN112545090 A CN 112545090A CN 202011370680 A CN202011370680 A CN 202011370680A CN 112545090 A CN112545090 A CN 112545090A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H1/00—Measuring aids or methods
- A41H1/06—Measuring aids or methods in combination with marking
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Abstract
The invention relates to a female jacket plate-making method, which comprises a step of a jacket back piece plate-making method and a step of an upper front piece plate-making method, and the invention has the advantages that the specific structure of the part with proportional relation among shoulder obliqueness, armhole depth, front and back collar opening width, back collar opening depth, front and back chest width and front and back piece length is accurate, the imbalance of the front and back bodies is solved, and the oblique locks of the back bodies are avoided, so that the shoulder obliquity angle is accurate and the shoulders are fit; the ratio of the back collar width to the front collar width is coordinated, and the neckline conforms to the shape of a human body; the back width and the front chest width are coordinated, and the chest and back positions are more in line with the shape of the human body; the method of the invention has reasonable design, and the women's jacket is fit and beautiful after being made into the coat.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a method for making a plate of a frock.
Background
Along with the improvement of living standard of people, women need to have fit, beautiful and comfortable clothes when wearing the coat, the oblique silk lock phenomenon appears in the body seam caused by inaccurate balance relation of the front piece and the back piece of the current frock, and the phenomenon that the front door stirs the seam allowance (namely two front doors are overlapped excessively) easily appears when the shoulder oblique angle does not accord with the structure shape of the human body; the chest width of the front and the back is either encumbrance or insufficient activity; not only does not fit well, but also affects the beauty of the clothes.
Disclosure of Invention
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is to provide a method for making a beautiful frock with reasonable design and fit after making clothes.
The invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the invention relates to a plate making method of a frock, which comprises a plate making method of a rear piece of the frock and a plate making method of a front piece above the upper part;
the plate making method of the back piece of the jacket comprises the following steps:
step one, making a horizontal line ab, wherein the length of the ab line is chest circumference/2, a vertical line ac of the ab line is made downwards along a point a, the length of the ac line is 38.8cm, and the ab line is a flat line on the rear sheet; making a parallel line gh of the ab line above the ab line, wherein the gh line is a flat line on the front sheet, and the vertical distance between the gh line and the ab line is 1.2 cm; making a parallel line cd of an ab line, wherein the cd line and the ac line are intersected at a point c; a parallel line bd passing through the point b and serving as an ac line is intersected with the ab line at the point b, and the bd line is intersected with the cd line at the point d;
step two, parallel lines ef of the ac lines are made between the ac lines and the bd lines, the ef lines and the ac lines are intersected at points e, and the ef lines and the cd lines are intersected at points f; the ef thread is a body suture thread; the distance between ef and ac is 4-1 cm; making a parallel line ij of an ac line between an ac line and an ef line, wherein the ij line intersects the ac line at a point i, the ij line intersects the cd line at a point j, the ij line is a back wide line, the horizontal distance between the ij line and the ac line is the chest circumference/6 +2.5cm, making a parallel line kl of a bd line between the bd line and the ef line, the kl line intersects the ac line at a point k, the kl line intersects the cd line at a point l, the horizontal distance between the kl line and the bd line is the chest circumference/6 +1.5cm, and the kl line is a front chest wide line;
thirdly, parallel lines mn of the ab line are made between the ab line and the cd line, the mn line and the ac line are intersected at m points, the mn line and the ef line are intersected at n points, the distance between the ab line and the mn line is chest circumference/6 +7.8 cm, and the mn line is a back chest circumference line; taking a point o on an ab line, wherein the length of an ao line is 7.3 cm; parallel lines qp serving as ao lines are arranged below the ab lines, the qp lines and the ac lines are crossed at a q point and connected with an op, so that op is inverted to qp, and the vertical distance between the qp lines and the ao lines is 2.3 cm; an arc smooth junction oq; the o-crossing point is taken as a line segment or, the included angle between the line segment or and the ob line is 20.5 degrees, and the length of the line segment or is shoulder width/2 +1.5 cm; the or line is a back shoulder line;
connecting the arc line with nr in a smooth connection mode, wherein the nr line is a rear armhole arc line, and the rear armhole arc line rn and the ij line are intersected at a point t; then qornfc is the plate making of the back piece of the jacket; a back shoulder area and a back waist area are arranged on the back piece of the jacket;
the plate making method for the front piece of the jacket comprises the following steps:
step one, making a parallel line DE of an ab line downwards along the ab line, wherein the DE is a front collar auxiliary line, the DE line and a bd line are intersected at an E point, and DE =7.0 cm; a perpendicular line DC of a gh line is drawn through the D point, the DC line and the gh line are crossed at a C point, and DC =6.3 cm;
step two, making a line segment CF obliquely below the C point, wherein the included angle between the CF line and the gh line is 17.5 degrees, and the length of the CF line is-1.5 cm of the length of the or line;
parallel lines GH of the mn lines are made between the ef lines and the bd lines, the GH lines and the ef lines are intersected at a G point, the GH lines and the bd lines are intersected at an H point, and the vertical distance between the GH lines and the mn lines is 4 cm;
thirdly, connecting the CE and the GF smoothly by using an arc line respectively, wherein the arc line GF is intersected with a kl line at a point P; GFCEdf is the plate making of the front piece of the jacket;
the front piece of the jacket is provided with a chest province and a front waist province.
The method for preparing the back shoulder protector comprises the following steps: taking a middle point u of the or line, crossing the u and obliquely downwards to form a vertical line uv of the or line, wherein the length of the uv line is 10cm, taking points w and x on the or line along two sides of the u point, and respectively connecting wu = xu = 0.75cm with wv and xv; the manufacturing method of the back waist province comprises the following steps: the middle point y is taken on the cj line, the perpendicular yz to the cj line is drawn upward through the y point, the length of the yz line is 18cm, and points A, B are taken on the cj line along both sides of the y point, so that Ay = By =1.75cm, and Az and Bz are connected, respectively.
Taking a point I on a GH line, wherein the length of an IH line is 2+0.7cm of the chest width of the front part, drawing a perpendicular line IM of the GH line passing through the point I, intersecting the IM line and a cd line at a point M, extending an mn line to the right, intersecting the IM line at a point J, and drawing an intersection line segment IM and a point J of an extension line of a line segment mn; the manufacturing method of the chest dart comprises the following steps: n, O points are respectively taken on the cd line along two sides of the M point, so that NM = OM =1.5cm, and NJ and the line segment OJ are connected; the manufacturing method of the front waist province comprises the following steps: k, L points are respectively taken on the ef line along both sides of the n point, so that Kn = Ln =2cm, and KJ and LJ are connected.
The invention has the following positive effects: the invention has accurate proportional structure of the proportional relation of the shoulder inclination, the armhole depth, the front and back collar opening width, the back collar opening depth, the front and back chest width and the front and back piece length, solves the problem of unbalance of the front and back bodies, and stops the back body from generating oblique locks, so that the shoulder inclination angle is accurate and the shoulders are fit; the ratio of the back collar width to the front collar width is coordinated, and the neckline conforms to the shape of a human body; the back width and the front chest width are coordinated, and the chest and back position is more in line with the shape of the human body.
The method of the invention has reasonable design, and the women's jacket is fit and beautiful after being made into the coat.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic structural diagram of the present invention.
Detailed Description
As shown in the attached figure 1, the plate making method of the frock comprises a plate making method of the back piece of the frock and a plate making method of the upper front piece;
the plate making method of the back piece of the jacket comprises the following steps:
step one, making a horizontal line ab, wherein the length of the ab line is chest circumference/2, a vertical line ac of the ab line is made downwards along a point a, the length of the ac line is 38.8cm (namely the sum of the back collar opening depth of 2.3cm and the back waist section length of 36.5 cm), and the ab line is a flat line on the back sheet; making a parallel line gh of the ab line above the ab line, wherein the gh line is a flat line on the front sheet, and the vertical distance between the gh line and the ab line is 1.2 cm; making a parallel line cd of an ab line, wherein the cd line and the ac line are intersected at a point c; a parallel line bd passing through the point b and serving as an ac line is intersected with the ab line at the point b, and the bd line is intersected with the cd line at the point d; the balance of the front piece and the rear piece of the jacket is adjusted through the steps, the front piece of the jacket is higher than the rear piece of the jacket by 1.2CM, and the phenomenon that oblique threads are strung at the body seam is avoided;
step two, parallel lines ef of the ac lines are made between the ac lines and the bd lines, the ef lines and the ac lines are intersected at points e, and the ef lines and the cd lines are intersected at points f; the ef thread is a body suture thread; the distance between ef and ac is 4-1 cm; making a parallel line ij of an ac line between an ac line and an ef line, wherein the ij line intersects the ac line at a point i, the ij line intersects the cd line at a point j, the ij line is a back wide line, the horizontal distance (namely, the vertical distance) between the ij line and the ac line is the chest circumference/6 +2.5cm, making a parallel line kl of a bd line between the bd line and the ef line, the kl line intersects the ac line at a point k, the kl line intersects the cd line at a point l, the horizontal distance (namely, the vertical distance) between the kl line and the bd line is the chest circumference/6 +1.5cm, and the kl line is a front chest wide line; the front chest width is adjusted to be chest circumference/6 +1.5cm, and the back width is adjusted to be chest circumference/6 +2.5cm, so that the chest and back are combined;
thirdly, parallel lines mn of the ab line are made between the ab line and the cd line, the mn line and the ac line are intersected at m points, the mn line and the ef line are intersected at n points, the distance between the ab line and the mn line is chest circumference/6 +7.8 cm, and the mn line is a back chest circumference line; taking a point o on an ab line, wherein the length of an ao line is 7.3 cm; parallel lines qp serving as ao lines are arranged below the ab lines, the qp lines and the ac lines are crossed at a q point and connected with an op, so that op is inverted to qp, and the vertical distance between the qp lines and the ao lines is 2.3 cm; an arc smooth junction oq; ao and qp are back collar auxiliary lines, and oq is a back collar arc line; the o-crossing point is taken as a line segment or, the included angle between the line segment or and the ob line is 20.5 degrees, and the length of the line segment or is shoulder width/2 +1.5 cm; the or line is a back shoulder line; the rear shoulder inclination angle is adjusted to be 20.5 degrees in the steps, so that the phenomenon that a front door is provided with a stirring spigot is avoided;
connecting the arc line with nr in a smooth connection mode, wherein the nr line is a rear armhole arc line, and the rear armhole arc line rn and the ij line are intersected at a point t; then qornfc is the plate making of the back piece of the jacket; a back shoulder area 1 and a back waist area 2 are arranged on the back piece of the jacket; the method for preparing the back shoulder dart 1 is as follows: taking a middle point u of the or line, crossing the u and obliquely downwards to form a vertical line uv of the or line, wherein the length of the uv line is 10cm, taking points w and x on the or line along two sides of the u point, and respectively connecting wu = xu = 0.75cm with wv and xv; the manufacturing method of the back waist province 2 comprises the following steps: taking a middle point y on the cj line, drawing a vertical line yz of the cj line upwards through the y point, wherein the length of the yz line is 18cm, taking points A, B on the cj line along two sides of the y point, and respectively connecting Az and Bz By making Ay = By =1.75 cm;
the plate making method for the front piece of the jacket comprises the following steps:
step one, making a parallel line DE of an ab line downwards along the ab line, wherein the DE is a front collar auxiliary line, the DE line and a bd line are intersected at an E point, and DE =7.0 cm; a perpendicular line DC of a gh line is drawn through the D point, the DC line and the gh line are crossed at a C point, and DC =6.3 cm;
step two, making a line segment CF obliquely below the C point, wherein the included angle between the CF line and the gh line is 17.5 degrees, and the length of the CF line is-1.5 cm of the length of the or line; parallel lines GH of the mn lines are made between the ef lines and the bd lines, the GH lines and the ef lines are intersected at a G point, the GH lines and the bd lines are intersected at an H point, and the vertical distance between the GH lines and the mn lines is 4 cm;
the front shoulder oblique angle is adjusted to be 17.5 degrees in the steps, so that the phenomenon of a stirring spigot of a front door is avoided;
thirdly, connecting the CE and the GF smoothly by using an arc line respectively, wherein the arc line GF is intersected with a kl line at a point P; GFCEdf is the plate making of the front piece of the jacket; a chest province 3 and a front waist province 4 are arranged on the front piece of the jacket; taking a point I on a GH line, wherein the length of an IH line is 2+0.7cm of the chest width of the front part, drawing a perpendicular line IM of the GH line passing through the point I, intersecting the IM line and a cd line at a point M, extending the mn line to the right, intersecting the IM line at a point J, and drawing an intersection line segment IM and a point J of an extension line of a line segment mn; the preparation method of the chest dart 3 comprises the following steps: n, O points are respectively taken on the cd line along two sides of the M point, so that NM = OM =1.5cm, and NJ and the line segment OJ are connected; the manufacturing method of the front waist province 4 comprises the following steps: k, L points are respectively taken on the ef line along both sides of the n point, so that Kn = Ln =2cm, and KJ and LJ are connected.
The invention has accurate proportional structure of the proportional relation of the shoulder inclination, the armhole depth, the front and back collar opening width, the back collar opening depth, the front and back chest width and the front and back piece length, solves the problem of unbalance of the front and back bodies, and stops the back body from generating oblique locks, so that the shoulder inclination angle is accurate and the shoulders are fit; the ratio of the back collar width to the front collar width is coordinated, and the neckline conforms to the shape of a human body; the back width and the front chest width are coordinated, and the chest and back position is more in line with the shape of the human body.
The method of the invention has reasonable design, and the women's jacket is fit and beautiful after being made into the coat.
Finally, the above description is only for the purpose of illustrating the preferred embodiments of the present invention and should not be taken as limiting the invention, so that any modification, equivalent replacement or improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (3)
1. A plate-making method of a jacket for women is characterized by comprising a plate-making method of a back piece of the jacket and a plate-making method of a front piece above the back piece of the jacket;
the plate making method of the back piece of the jacket comprises the following steps:
step one, making a horizontal line ab, wherein the length of the ab line is chest circumference/2, a vertical line ac of the ab line is made downwards along a point a, the length of the ac line is 38.8cm, and the ab line is a flat line on the rear sheet;
making a parallel line gh of the ab line above the ab line, wherein the gh line is a flat line on the front sheet, and the vertical distance between the gh line and the ab line is 1.2 cm;
making a parallel line cd of an ab line, wherein the cd line and the ac line are intersected at a point c; a parallel line bd passing through the point b and serving as an ac line is intersected with the ab line at the point b, and the bd line is intersected with the cd line at the point d;
step two, parallel lines ef of the ac lines are made between the ac lines and the bd lines, the ef lines and the ac lines are intersected at points e, and the ef lines and the cd lines are intersected at points f; the ef thread is a body suture thread; the distance between ef and ac is 4-1 cm;
making a parallel line ij of the ac line between the ac line and the ef line, wherein the ij line is intersected with the ac line at a point i, the ij line is intersected with the cd line at a point j, the ij line is a back width line, and the horizontal distance between the ij line and the ac line is bust/6 +2.5 cm;
making a parallel line kl of the bd line between the bd line and the ef line, wherein the kl line is intersected with the ac line at a point k, the kl line is intersected with the cd line at a point l, the horizontal distance between the kl line and the bd line is bust/6 +1.5cm, and the kl line is a chest width line;
thirdly, parallel lines mn of the ab line are made between the ab line and the cd line, the mn line and the ac line are intersected at m points, the mn line and the ef line are intersected at n points, the distance between the ab line and the mn line is chest circumference/6 +7.8 cm, and the mn line is a back chest circumference line;
taking a point o on an ab line, wherein the length of an ao line is 7.3 cm; parallel lines qp serving as ao lines are arranged below the ab lines, the qp lines and the ac lines are crossed at a q point and connected with an op, so that op is inverted to qp, and the vertical distance between the qp lines and the ao lines is 2.3 cm; an arc smooth junction oq; ao and qp are back collar auxiliary lines, and oq is a back collar arc line;
the o-crossing point is taken as a line segment or, the included angle between the line segment or and the ob line is 20.5 degrees, and the length of the line segment or is shoulder width/2 +1.5 cm; the or line is a back shoulder line;
connecting the arc line with nr in a smooth connection mode, wherein the nr line is a rear armhole arc line, and the rear armhole arc line rn and the ij line are intersected at a point t; then qornfc is the plate making of the back piece of the jacket;
a back shoulder area (1) and a back waist area (2) are arranged on the back piece of the jacket;
the plate making method for the front piece of the jacket comprises the following steps:
step one, making a parallel line DE of an ab line downwards along the ab line, wherein the DE is a front collar auxiliary line, the DE line and a bd line are intersected at an E point, and DE =7.0 cm; a perpendicular line DC of a gh line is drawn through the D point, the DC line and the gh line are crossed at a C point, and DC =6.3 cm;
step two, making a line segment CF obliquely below the C point, wherein the included angle between the CF line and the gh line is 17.5 degrees, and the length of the CF line is-1.5 cm of the length of the or line;
parallel lines GH of the mn lines are made between the ef lines and the bd lines, the GH lines and the ef lines are intersected at a G point, the GH lines and the bd lines are intersected at an H point, and the vertical distance between the GH lines and the mn lines is 4 cm;
thirdly, connecting the CE and the GF smoothly by using an arc line respectively, wherein the arc line GF is intersected with a kl line at a point P; GFCEdf is the plate making of the front piece of the jacket;
the front piece of the jacket is provided with a chest province (3) and a front waist province (4).
2. A method for making a frock as claimed in claim 1, wherein the back shoulder area (1) is prepared as follows: taking a middle point u of the or line, crossing the u and obliquely downwards to form a vertical line uv of the or line, wherein the length of the uv line is 10cm, taking points w and x on the or line along two sides of the u point, and respectively connecting wu = xu = 0.75cm with wv and xv;
the manufacturing method of the back waist province (2) is as follows: the middle point y is taken on the cj line, the perpendicular yz to the cj line is drawn upward through the y point, the length of the yz line is 18cm, and points A, B are taken on the cj line along both sides of the y point, so that Ay = By =1.75cm, and Az and Bz are connected, respectively.
3. The method of claim 1, wherein a point I is taken on the GH line, the IH line has a chest width of 2+0.7cm, a perpendicular IM to the GH line is taken through the point I, the IM line intersects the cd line at point M, the mn line is extended to the right and intersects the IM line at point J, and an extension line of the mn line intersects the IM line at point J;
the manufacturing method of the chest dart (3) is as follows: n, O points are respectively taken on the cd line along two sides of the M point, so that NM = OM =1.5cm, and NJ and the line segment OJ are connected;
the manufacturing method of the front waist province (4) is as follows: k, L points are respectively taken on the ef line along both sides of the n point, so that Kn = Ln =2cm, and KJ and LJ are connected.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202011370680.8A CN112545090B (en) | 2020-11-30 | 2020-11-30 | Method for making plate of women's jacket |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202011370680.8A CN112545090B (en) | 2020-11-30 | 2020-11-30 | Method for making plate of women's jacket |
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| CN112545090A true CN112545090A (en) | 2021-03-26 |
| CN112545090B CN112545090B (en) | 2022-05-17 |
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| CN202011370680.8A Active CN112545090B (en) | 2020-11-30 | 2020-11-30 | Method for making plate of women's jacket |
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| CN (1) | CN112545090B (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN113208217A (en) * | 2021-04-21 | 2021-08-06 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Plate making method for women's leisure jacket |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN113208217A (en) * | 2021-04-21 | 2021-08-06 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Plate making method for women's leisure jacket |
| CN113208217B (en) * | 2021-04-21 | 2022-05-17 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Plate making method for women's leisure jacket |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN112545090B (en) | 2022-05-17 |
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