CN112458606B - High-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar and manufacturing method and application thereof - Google Patents
High-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar and manufacturing method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
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- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
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- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
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- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/58—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides
- D06M11/59—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides with ammonia; with complexes of organic amines with inorganic substances
- D06M11/61—Liquid ammonia
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- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
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- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
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- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
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- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
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- D06M2101/38—Polyurethanes
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Abstract
The invention provides a high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar and a manufacturing method and application thereof. The high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar has the characteristics of no curling after multiple times of washing and no deformation, has good elastic recovery and wrinkle recovery, is excellently washed and preserved, and can achieve the performance of no curling after multiple times (10 times) of washing. The high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar provided by the invention is mainly used as a collar of a high-grade POLO (polyester) type T-shirt, and can solve the deformation problems of wave shape, lotus leaf edges, edge curling and the like of the collar of the washed POLO type T-shirt, which troubles customers and consumers for a long time.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar and a manufacturing method and application thereof, belonging to the technical field of textile auxiliary materials.
Background
The collar is the most central part of the POLO sweater, and the washability and shape retention of the collar directly influence the quality of the ready-made clothes.
In the past, many consumers feed back the water washing of the POLO shirt collar to cause deformation problems such as wave shape, lotus leaf edge, edge curling and the like, and how to achieve the 'non-edge curling' is a difficult problem to be solved urgently in the industry, and many technical staff make attempts, but most of the facts do not reach the ideal level. The development of a high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar aims to provide a high-quality non-curling flat knitting machine collar which has good elastic recovery and wrinkle recovery, excellent shape preservation after washing and can achieve the performance of non-curling after washing for many times. Meanwhile, the collar without curling is defined, a test method and a standard are established, and a large number of comparison tests are carried out to verify that the standard has direct correlation on the performance of the collar. The successful development of the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar can solve the collar quality problem which puzzles customers and consumers for a long time.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the defects and shortcomings, the invention aims to provide a high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar and a manufacturing method and application thereof. The high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar is a dense-gauge double-layer (double-sided) organizational structure of a flat knitting machine, is obtained by adopting a special weaving method and yarn combination weaving and then functional after finishing, wherein the yarn combination is a combination of high-elasticity polyester yarn (high-elasticity polyester yarn), long-staple cotton (long-staple cotton yarn) and spandex (elastic spandex yarn), and can ensure that the manufactured collar has the characteristic of high elasticity; the functional after-treatment mainly comprises biological enzyme treatment, liquid ammonia treatment and the like, and the prepared collar has the characteristics of high elasticity, washing resistance and no deformation.
In order to achieve the above objects, in one aspect, the present invention provides a high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar, wherein the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar is a double-layer structure with a dense needle pitch, the front side and the back side of the flat knitting machine collar are formed by interweaving long stapled cotton yarn and high elastic polyester yarn, and the front side and the back side are connected by elastic spandex yarn.
In the high-elasticity high-shape-retaining washable flat knitting machine, preferably, the long staple cotton yarn comprises 30-50 English 100% long staple cotton ring spun cotton yarn or compact spun cotton yarn and the 100% long staple cotton ring spun cotton yarn or compact spun cotton yarn of the plied yarn 60S/2-100S/2.
In the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar according to the specific embodiment of the invention, preferably, the high-elasticity polyester yarns comprise 75D/36F high-elasticity, non-net, DTY polyester yarns.
According to the specific embodiment of the present invention, in the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar, preferably, the elongation at break of the high-elasticity polyester yarn is 21 ± 5%.
In the high elastic high shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar according to the embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the count of the elastic spandex yarn is 70 to 140 deniers.
According to the embodiment of the invention, in the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar, the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar is preferably produced by using a flat knitting machine with a needle pitch of 16G and above.
According to the embodiment of the invention, in the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar, the stitch length of a flat knitting machine used for manufacturing the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar is preferably 25C (120-.
Among them, the flat knitting machine used in the present invention is a conventional one used in the art.
According to the specific embodiment of the invention, the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting collar is obtained by adopting a manufacturing method comprising the following steps:
(1) the dyed high-elasticity polyester yarns and long stapled cotton yarns are used as front and back raw material yarns, and the elastic spandex yarns are used as middle joint raw material yarns of the cloth cover and the cloth bottom to carry out double-sided weaving to obtain a double-sided flat knitting machine collar;
(2) and performing functional after-treatment on the collar of the double-sided flat knitting machine to obtain the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable collar of the flat knitting machine.
According to the specific embodiment of the invention, in the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar, the weaving method of the double-sided flat-bed machine collar comprises the following steps:
1) using a plurality of high-elasticity polyester yarns and a plurality of long-staple cotton yarns as front yarns, and performing single-side knitting on an upper needle bed of a flat knitting machine to form a front surface;
2) using a plurality of high-elasticity polyester yarns and a plurality of long-staple cotton yarns as back-side yarns, and performing single-side knitting on a lower needle bed of a flat knitting machine to form a back side;
3) taking an elastic spandex yarn as a connecting yarn, and carrying out double-sided knitting on an upper needle bed and a lower needle bed of a flat knitting machine to connect the front side and the back side;
and (4) repeatedly weaving according to the steps 1) to 3) to obtain the double-sided flat knitting machine collar.
According to the specific embodiment of the invention, in the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar, the number of the high-elasticity polyester yarns and the number of the long-staple cotton yarns in the step 1) are the same, and the number of the high-elasticity polyester yarns and the number of the long-staple cotton yarns in the step 2) are the same.
In the high-elastic high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar according to an embodiment of the present invention, the elastic recovery test is preferably performed on the high-elastic high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar by the method in ASTM D2594, the recovery time is 60 seconds and 1 hour, and the elastic recovery rate is < 6% and < 4%, respectively;
the wrinkle recovery angle of the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat-knitting machine collar is measured by the method in AATCC 66-2006 and is more than 135 degrees.
On the other hand, the invention also provides a manufacturing method of the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar, wherein the manufacturing method comprises the following steps:
(1) using the dyed high-elasticity polyester yarns and the dyed long stapled cotton yarns as front and back raw material yarns, and using the elastic spandex yarns as middle connection raw material yarns of a cloth cover and a cloth bottom to carry out double-sided weaving to obtain a double-sided flat knitting machine collar;
(2) and performing functional after-treatment on the collar of the double-sided flat knitting machine to obtain the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable collar of the flat knitting machine.
According to the embodiment of the invention, in the method for manufacturing the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar, preferably, the method for weaving the double-sided flat-bed machine collar comprises the following steps:
1) using a plurality of high-elasticity polyester yarns and a plurality of long-staple cotton yarns as front yarns, and performing single-side knitting on an upper needle bed of a flat knitting machine to form a front surface;
2) using a plurality of high-elasticity polyester yarns and a plurality of long-staple cotton yarns as back-side yarns, and performing single-side knitting on a lower needle bed of a flat knitting machine to form a back side;
3) taking an elastic spandex yarn as a connecting yarn, and carrying out double-sided knitting on an upper needle bed and a lower needle bed of a flat knitting machine to connect the front side and the back side;
and (4) repeatedly weaving according to the steps 1) to 3) to obtain the double-sided flat knitting machine collar.
According to the embodiment of the present invention, in the method for manufacturing the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar, preferably, the number of the high-elasticity polyester yarns and the number of the long-staple cotton yarns in the step 1) are the same as each other, and the number of the high-elasticity polyester yarns and the number of the long-staple cotton yarns in the step 2) are the same as each other.
Wherein the number of the high-elasticity polyester yarns and the long-staple cotton yarns used in the steps 1) and 2) directly influences the thickness of the obtained high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar; according to the invention, the number of the high-elasticity polyester yarns and the number of the long-staple cotton yarns in the step 1) are the same as those of the high-elasticity polyester yarns and the long-staple cotton yarns in the step 2), so that the obtained high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar is moderate in thickness and has good elasticity.
According to the embodiment of the invention, in the method for manufacturing the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed collar, high-elasticity polyester yarns and long stapled cotton yarns need to be dyed before weaving, and the dyed color needs to be consistent with the color of a finished product.
According to the specific embodiment of the invention, in the method for manufacturing the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar, preferably, the functional after-treatment comprises biological enzyme treatment, first collar pressing, first drying, liquid ammonia finishing, over-softening oil treatment, second collar pressing, second drying and collar dismantling.
In the method for manufacturing the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar according to the specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the liquid ammonia finishing process comprises: the speed of the liquid ammonia finishing is 20-30 m/min; treating temperature for liquid ammonia finishing: the temperature of the cloth feeding blanket is 115-125 ℃, the temperature of the upper reaction zone and the lower reaction zone is 85-95 ℃, and the temperature of the cloth discharging blanket is 95-105 ℃; treating tension for liquid ammonia finishing: the cloth feeding blanket is 1.5-2.5KG, the upper and lower reaction zones are 4-6KG, and the cloth discharging blanket is 4-6 KG.
In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the liquid ammonia finishing process is: the speed of the liquid ammonia finishing is 25 m/min; treating temperature for liquid ammonia finishing: the temperature of the cloth feeding blanket is 120 ℃, the temperature of the upper reaction zone and the lower reaction zone is 90 ℃, and the temperature of the cloth discharging blanket is 100 ℃; treating tension for liquid ammonia finishing: the cloth feeding blanket is 2KG, the upper and lower reaction zones are 5KG, and the cloth discharging blanket is 5 KG.
In the method for manufacturing the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar according to the embodiment of the invention, preferably, the biological enzyme treatment comprises the following steps: treating the double-sided flat knitting machine collar in enzyme lotion at 40-60 deg.C for 40-80min at bath ratio of 1: 18-40; wherein the enzyme lotion comprises 2-6g/L of biological enzyme, 0.5-1.0g/L of sodium acetate and 0.5-1.0g/L of acetic acid, and the solvent is water;
more preferably, the biological enzyme is a cellulase.
Wherein, the concentration of each component in the enzyme washing liquid is calculated by taking the total volume of the enzyme washing liquid as a reference.
According to the embodiment of the invention, in the method for manufacturing the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar, the over-softening oil treatment is preferably carried out by treating the double-sided flat knitting machine collar after being finished by liquid ammonia by using a washing liquid, and the softening agent is contained in an amount of 4-6g/L based on the total volume of the washing liquid.
Wherein the solvent of the washing liquid is water, and the concentration of each component in the washing liquid is calculated by taking the total volume of the washing liquid as a reference; and the softener used in the present invention may be a conventional softener used in the art, which may be commercially available.
According to the specific embodiment of the invention, in the method for manufacturing the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar, the functional after-treatment specifically comprises biological enzyme treatment, first collar pressing, first drying, liquid ammonia finishing, soft oil treatment, second collar pressing, second drying and collar dismantling;
the operations of the first collar pressing, the first drying, the second collar pressing, the second drying, collar dismantling and the like are all conventional operations in the field, and a person skilled in the art can reasonably set the operations, specific steps involved in the operations, specific process parameters and specific substances used in the operations according to the field operation requirements.
According to the embodiment of the invention, in the method for manufacturing the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar, before the biological enzyme treatment, the double-sided flat-bed machine collar needs to be checked to check whether the collar has quality problems, such as yarn breakage, edge breakage, tooth edge, corner collapse deformation and the like.
In another aspect, the invention also provides the application of the high-elasticity high-shape-retaining washable flat knitting collar as a POLO shirt collar.
The present invention also defines the non-crimping field in detail, as shown in the following.
Currently, the non-curling collar is still a vague concept in the art, and there is no clear definition of the non-curling collar for the time being, which means that it is not curled, how to judge whether the collar is curled or not curled, how to test the non-curling collar, and what standard is used in the non-curling collar are pending.
The invention defines the non-crimp collar and determines a specific test method and a relevant standard for judging the non-crimp collar.
Definition of non-crimping collar: collars that have passed the test and have been washed to the standard as defined in table 1 below are referred to as uncrimped collars.
TABLE 1
The test methods and criteria provided in table 1 are detailed below:
the collar to be tested is subjected to the following three test/washing projects, and if the collar treated by the three test/washing projects can reach the judgment standard in the table 1, the collar is the collar without edge curling.
Elastic recovery (original/washing 5 times)
The premise that the collar to be tested can achieve the effect of no curling is that the collar not only has extremely good tensile elasticity, but also has good enough elastic recovery, so that the collar can be recovered to the original state as much as possible after being stretched and washed in the process of multiple uses. Therefore, in the elastic recovery (original state/washing 5 times), the invention mainly examines the elastic recovery performance of the weft direction of the collar to be tested, and the test process adopts the ASTM D2594 international standard method, and the test process comprises the following steps: and stretching the collar to be tested by 30% in the weft direction, standing for 2 hours, and examining the recovery time after removing the outer edge, wherein the recovery time is 60 seconds and the recovery performance after 1 hour. According to the test results, the invention defines the standard of elastic recovery as: < 6% (60s) and < 4% (1 h).
Crease recovery angle (original/washing 5 times)
To some extent, the collar is deformed because it is pressed by an external force and cannot be completely restored to the original state, thereby being deformed.
The recovery performance of the collar after pile pressing and creasing is measured by a crease recovery angle which is measured by adopting a method in AATCC 66-2006.
Through preliminary comparative tests, the applicant finds that the collar with a larger wrinkle recovery angle has correspondingly better shape-retaining property, and when the wrinkle recovery angle is larger than 135 degrees, the shape-retaining property of the collar is better, so that the invention defines the wrinkle recovery angle as follows: 135 deg.
Appearance sewing sample (original/washing 10 times)
Among the methods for verifying whether the collar is washable and not curled, the most important and intuitive method is to judge whether the collar is washable and not curled by observing a real object. In contrast, a Mock-Up (garment model) is manufactured by using a specified fabric and collar (the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar provided by the invention), then the Mock-Up is subjected to household washing for required times (such as 10 times), then the Mock-Up after the household washing for the required times is compared with a standard sample, and after comparison, if the Mock-Up is found to be capable of following the standard sample, the Mock-Up can be defined as a non-curled collar.
The standard sample is a sample which still has good flatness, is not deformed and is not curled after being washed for 10 times at home, and can be reasonably selected by a person skilled in the art according to the actual operation requirement on site; for example, in the embodiment of the present invention, if the model of the garment used has good flatness after 10 times of home washing, and is not deformed and curled, the model of the garment after 10 times of home washing can be used as the standard sample.
The high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar provided by the invention is a high-elasticity flat knitting machine collar, has the characteristics of no curling and no deformation after multiple times of washing, has good elastic recovery and wrinkle recovery, is extremely good in shape preservation after washing, and can achieve the performance of no curling after multiple times (10 times) of washing. The high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar provided by the invention is mainly used as a collar of a high-grade POLO (polyester) type T-shirt, and can solve the deformation problems of wave shape, lotus leaf edges, edge curling and the like of the collar of the washed POLO type T-shirt, which troubles customers and consumers for a long time.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the weaving process of the high elastic high shape-retaining washable flat knitting machine collar provided in example 1 of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a diagram showing a Mock-Up (garment model) as prepared in example 1 of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a graph showing samples of Mock-Up (garment model) obtained in example 1 of the present invention after 10 home washes.
Detailed Description
In order to clearly understand the technical features, objects and advantages of the present invention, the following detailed description of the technical solutions of the present invention will be made with reference to the following specific examples, which should not be construed as limiting the implementable scope of the present invention.
Example 1
The embodiment provides a manufacturing method of a high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar, wherein the manufacturing method comprises the following steps:
the yarn raw material yarns used in this example are shown in table 2 below, and as can be seen from table 2, the raw material yarns used include 100% long staple cotton yarn, spandex (elastic spandex yarn), and polyester (high-elastic polyester yarn).
TABLE 2
| Yarn | Yarn count (English count/denier) |
| 100% long-staple cotton yarn | 60S/2X2 compact spinning (English) |
| High-elasticity polyester yarn | 75D/36FX2 (denier) |
| Elastic spandex filament | 70D/1LYCRA, Lycra (denier) |
The high-elasticity polyester yarn is 75D/36F high-elasticity and non-net DTY polyester yarn; the range of the elongation at break of the polyester yarn is 21 +/-5%. The dyeing of the 100 percent long-staple cotton yarn and the high-elasticity polyester yarn is arranged before weaving, and the color of the dyed yarn is consistent with that of the final finished fabric.
The method adopts the following models: the island essence H313 three-system flat knitting machine has the needle pitch of 16G and the coil length of 25C (120-.
60S/2X2(X2 represents two long-staple cotton yarns) compact spinning cotton yarns and 75D/36F X2(X2 represents two high-elasticity polyester yarns) denier polyester yarns are used as raw material yarns of a cloth cover and a cloth bottom, and the yarns are fed together through different yarn feeders to participate in weaving.
The weaving is carried out according to the weaving method shown in fig. 1, namely:
1) taking 2 pieces of high-elasticity polyester yarns and 2 pieces of 100% long-staple cotton yarns as front yarns, and performing single-side knitting on an upper needle bed of a flat knitting machine to form a front side;
2) taking 2 pieces of high-elasticity polyester yarns and 2 pieces of 100% long-staple cotton yarns as back-side yarns, and performing single-side knitting on a lower needle bed of a flat knitting machine to form a back side;
3) taking an elastic spandex yarn as a connecting wire, and carrying out double-sided weaving on an upper needle bed and a lower needle bed of a flat knitting machine to connect the front side and the back side;
and (3) repeatedly weaving according to the weaving method in the steps 1) to 3) to obtain the double-faced flat knitting machine collar.
Meanwhile, when the collar is woven on the used transverse machine, whether the high-elasticity polyester yarns of the starting-up cloth are exposed or not needs to be checked, the problem of exposure of the high-elasticity polyester yarns is ensured not to be generated, and meanwhile, various defects generated by the high-elasticity spandex yarns are checked to ensure that any quality problem is timely treated.
Inspecting the collar of the double-sided flat knitting machine, preparing cloth, and washing the collar of the double-sided flat knitting machine with water (biological enzyme treatment, and soft oil can not be added in the treatment process); wherein, the composition and the solubility of each component of the enzyme lotion used in the process of treating the biological enzyme are shown in table 3, and as can be seen from table 3, the enzyme lotion comprises 2-6g/L of biological enzyme, 0.5g/L of sodium acetate and 0.5g/L of acetic acid, and the solvent is water; the biological enzyme is CELLUSOFT produced by Novoxin (China) biotechnology limited TM Enzymes, i.e. CELLUSOFT CR50 x CX 45' PROG 0120 (B);
adjusting pH value of the system to 5.5 with acetic acid in enzyme lotion, placing the double-sided flat knitting machine into the enzyme lotion at a bath ratio of 1:25, and treating at 50 deg.C for 60min to complete biological enzyme treatment.
TABLE 3
| Component (A) | Concentration of |
| Sodium acetate NaAc | 0.5g/L |
| Acetic acid HAc | 0.5g/L |
| CELLUSOFT CR50*CX45’PROG 0120(B) | 2-6g/L |
And (3) carrying out water squeezing and drying treatment on the double-sided flat knitting machine after the biological enzyme treatment (enzyme washing), wherein the water squeezing and drying treatment is a conventional process in the field, and the drying can be carried out at the temperature of 130-150 ℃ in the embodiment.
Liquid ammonia arrangement is carried out on the dried double-sided flat knitting machine collar, and the principle and the technical effect of the liquid ammonia arrangement are as follows: ammonia gas is in liquid state (NH) below-33 deg.C 3 ) The viscosity and the surface tension of the liquid ammonia are lower than those of water, the liquid ammonia can easily and quickly permeate into the cotton fibers, so that the cotton fibers are expanded from the core part, the cross section is expanded into a round shape from a flat shape, the cavity diameter is reduced, the surface is smooth, the internal stress is eliminated and is not distorted any more due to the change of a fiber crystalline structure, the tensile strength and the tearing strength are improved, and the good hand feeling (softness) can be still kept even if the liquid ammonia is repeatedly washed. After the two-sided flat knitting machine collar is finished by the liquid ammonia, the hand feeling and the appearance of a finished product can be greatly improved.
In this embodiment, the liquid ammonia finishing process is as follows: the speed of the liquid ammonia finishing is 25 m/min; treatment temperature for liquid ammonia finishing: the temperature of the cloth feeding blanket is 120 ℃, the temperature of the upper reaction zone and the lower reaction zone is 90 ℃, and the temperature of the cloth discharging blanket is 100 ℃; treatment tension of liquid ammonia finishing: the cloth feeding blanket is 2KG, the upper and lower reaction zones are 5KG, and the cloth discharging blanket is 5 KG.
Wherein, liquid ammonia arrangement can be carried out on Italy LAFER liquid ammonia mercerizing range, and the concrete operation includes: the dried collar of the double-sided flat knitting machine passes through a liquid ammonia treatment box by using cloth guide, the cloth guide needs to be consistent with the width of a production collar, and the seam is flat, neat and firm; and the machine is ensured not to be stopped midway, otherwise, the color is abnormal, and if the machine is stopped, the collar of the double-sided flat knitting machine is clearly marked after drying.
The double-sided flat knitting machine after liquid ammonia finishing needs to be cleaned by water washing equipment, the composition and the solubility of each component of the used washing water liquid are shown in table 4, and as can be seen from table 4, the washing water liquid adopts FKS produced by Xianqiao chemical products, Inc. in Xinjiang city, as a penetrating agent, DM-133 produced by Guangdong Demei fine chemical products, Inc. as a low-temperature oil removal agent, CIBA FLUIDC produced by Hunsmy textile dyeing (China) Inc. as a wrinkle preventing agent, and JSS soft oil (Magnasofts JSS) produced by Mingmji hong Kong cleaning products, Inc. 6g/L is also added into the washing water liquid as a softening agent.
The washing water treatment (softening oil treatment) specifically comprises the following steps: putting the double-sided flat knitting machine after liquid ammonia finishing into the washing liquid according to a bath ratio of 1:18-40, and washing for 30-60min at 45-80 ℃.
TABLE 4
| Component (A) | Concentration of | Manufacturer of the product |
| Penetrant FKS | 1.0g/L | QIANJIANG XIANQIAO CHEMICAL PRODUCT Co.,Ltd. |
| Low-temperature degreaser DM-133 | 0.8g/L | GUANGDONG DEMEI FINE CHEMICALS Co.,Ltd. |
| Wrinkle inhibitor CIBA FLUIDC | 1.0g/L | HenshimeiTextile dyeing (China) Co Ltd |
| JSS soft oil (Magnasoft JSS) | 6g/L | Ming hong Kong cleaning products Co Ltd |
And then collar rolling, drying and stitch removing are carried out on the double-sided flat knitting machine collar after the washing water treatment (the soft oil treatment), and finally the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar is obtained.
The high elastic high shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar prepared in this example was subjected to corresponding physical and chemical index tests, and the test methods, reference standards and test results are shown in table 5 below.
TABLE 5
In the present example, the produced Mock-Up (ready-made clothes model) is shown in fig. 2 as it is, the Mock-Up after 10 times of home washing is shown in fig. 3, and when comparing fig. 2 to fig. 3, it was found that the ready-made clothes model does not have the problems of deformation, scallop edges, and corner collapse after 10 times of home washing, and the ready-made clothes model after 10 times of home washing can be used as the standard sample.
As can be seen from Table 5 and FIGS. 2-3, the high elastic and high shape-retaining washable collar for flat knitting machine prepared in this example has good shape-retaining property, and after 10 times of home washing, it has no deformation, scalloping edge, and corner collapse.
The above description is only exemplary of the invention and should not be taken as limiting the scope of the invention, so that the invention is intended to cover all modifications and equivalents of the embodiments described herein. In addition, the technical features and the technical inventions of the present invention, the technical features and the technical inventions, and the technical inventions can be freely combined and used.
Claims (15)
1. The high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar is characterized in that the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar is of a double-layer tissue structure with a dense needle pitch, the front side and the back side of the flat knitting machine collar are formed by interweaving long stapled cotton yarns and high-elasticity polyester yarns, and the front side and the back side are connected by elastic spandex yarns;
the manufacturing method of the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar comprises the following steps:
(1) using the dyed high-elasticity polyester yarns and long stapled cotton yarns as front and back raw material yarns, and using the elastic spandex yarns as middle connection raw material yarns of the front and the back to carry out double-sided weaving to obtain a double-sided flat knitting machine collar;
the knitting method of the double-sided flat knitting machine collar comprises the following steps:
1) using a plurality of high-elasticity polyester yarns and a plurality of long-staple cotton yarns as front yarns, and performing single-side knitting on a needle bed on a flat knitting machine to form a front side;
2) using a plurality of high-elasticity polyester yarns and a plurality of long-staple cotton yarns as back-side yarns, and performing single-side knitting on a lower needle bed of a flat knitting machine to form a back side;
3) taking an elastic spandex yarn as a connecting wire, and performing double-sided knitting on an upper needle bed and a lower needle bed of a flat knitting machine to connect the front side and the back side;
repeatedly weaving according to the steps 1) to 3) to obtain the double-sided flat knitting machine collar;
(2) performing functional after-treatment on the collar of the double-sided flat knitting machine to obtain the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable collar of the flat knitting machine;
the functional after-treatment comprises biological enzyme treatment, liquid ammonia treatment and over-softening oil treatment.
2. The high-elastic high-shape-retaining washable flat knitting machine collar as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that said long staple cotton yarn comprises 30-50 counts of 100% long staple cotton ring spun cotton yarn or compact spun cotton yarn and 60S/2-100S/2 of plied yarn of 100% long staple cotton ring spun cotton yarn or compact spun cotton yarn.
3. The high-elastic high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar according to claim 1, characterized in that said high-elastic polyester yarn comprises 75D/36F high-elastic non-net DTY polyester yarn.
4. The high-elastic high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar as claimed in claim 1, wherein said high-elastic polyester yarn has an elongation at break of 21 ± 5%.
5. The high-elastic high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar as recited in claim 1, characterized in that said elastic spandex filament has a count of 70-140 denier.
6. The high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that it is produced by using flat-bed machine with machine number E16 and above.
7. The collar of claim 6, wherein the flat knitting machine used to make the collar has a stitch length of: the length of the 25 coils ranges from 120 to 125 mm.
8. The high-elastic high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that said high-elastic high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar is subjected to an elastic recovery test according to the method in ASTM D2594, with a recovery time of 60 seconds and 1 hour, and an elastic recovery of < 6% and < 4%, respectively;
the wrinkle recovery angle of the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat knitting machine collar is measured by the method in AATCC 66-2006>135 o 。
9. The method for manufacturing the high-elastic high-shape-retaining washable flat-bed machine collar according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the method comprises:
(1) using the dyed high-elasticity polyester yarns and long stapled cotton yarns as front and back raw material yarns, and using the elastic spandex yarns as middle connection raw material yarns of the front and the back to carry out double-sided weaving to obtain a double-sided flat knitting machine collar;
the knitting method of the double-sided flat knitting machine collar comprises the following steps:
1) using a plurality of high-elasticity polyester yarns and a plurality of long-staple cotton yarns as front yarns, and performing single-side knitting on an upper needle bed of a flat knitting machine to form a front surface;
2) using a plurality of high-elasticity polyester yarns and a plurality of long-staple cotton yarns as back-side yarns, and performing single-side knitting on a lower needle bed of a flat knitting machine to form a back side;
3) taking an elastic spandex yarn as a connecting yarn, and carrying out double-sided knitting on an upper needle bed and a lower needle bed of a flat knitting machine to connect the front side and the back side;
repeatedly weaving according to the steps 1) to 3) to obtain the double-sided flat knitting machine collar;
(2) and performing functional after-treatment on the collar of the double-sided flat knitting machine to obtain the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable collar of the flat knitting machine.
10. The method for manufacturing the high-elastic high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar according to claim 9,
the number of the high-elasticity polyester yarns in the step 1) is equal to that of the long-staple cotton yarns in the step 2).
11. The method for manufacturing the high-elastic high-shape-retaining washable flat-bed machine collar according to claim 9 or 10,
the liquid ammonia finishing process comprises the following steps: the speed of the liquid ammonia finishing is 20-30 m/min; treatment temperature for liquid ammonia finishing: the temperature of the cloth feeding blanket is 115- o C, the temperature of the upper reaction zone and the lower reaction zone is 85-95 DEG o C, the temperature of the blanket at the cloth outlet is 95 to 105 DEG o C; treating tension for liquid ammonia finishing: the cloth feeding blanket is 1.5-2.5KG, the upper and lower reaction zones are 4-6KG, and the cloth discharging blanket is 4-6 KG.
12. The method for making a high-elastic high-shape-retaining washable flat-bed collar according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that said biological enzyme treatment comprises: placing the double-sided flat knitting machine into enzyme lotion at a bath ratio of 1:18-40 and at a temperature of 40-60% o Treating for 40-80min under the condition of C; wherein the enzyme lotion comprises 2-6g/L of biological enzyme, 0.5-1.0g/L of sodium acetate and 0.5-1.0g/L of acetic acid, and the solvent is water.
13. The method for manufacturing the high-elasticity high-shape-retaining washable flat-bed collar as claimed in claim 12, wherein said bio-enzyme is cellulase.
14. The method for manufacturing the high-elasticity high-shape-preserving washable flat-bed machine collar according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the over-softening oil treatment is carried out by treating the double-sided flat-bed machine collar after liquid ammonia finishing with a washing liquid, wherein the softening agent is contained in an amount of 4-6g/L based on the total volume of the washing liquid.
15. Use of a high elastic high shape-retaining washable flat-bed collar as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8 as a POLO shirt collar.
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