KR102527157B1 - Method for manufacturing ultra-light denim fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing ultra-light denim fabric, and more particularly, to an ultra-lightweight denim fabric with excellent dyeing quality and minimized shape change of the fabric that occurs during the hollow collapse of the hollow fibers included in the fabric and processing of the manufactured fabric. It is about manufacturing method

Description

Method for manufacturing ultra-light denim fabric}

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing ultra-light denim fabric, and more particularly, to an ultra-lightweight denim fabric with excellent dyeing quality and minimized shape change of the fabric that occurs during the hollow collapse of the hollow fibers included in the fabric and processing of the manufactured fabric. It's about manufacturing methods.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Synthetic fibers such as polyester and polyamide are widely used not only for clothing but also for industrial purposes due to their excellent physical and chemical properties, and have industrially important values. However, these synthetic fibers have a single yarn fineness distribution and lack of bulkiness, so they have poor thermal insulation properties compared to natural fibers such as hemp and cotton. Synthetic fibers have been developed and are widely used.

The hollow fiber is an old technology to the extent that a basic patent has already been applied for in 1956, and it can be mentioned that a feeling of lightness can be felt due to a decrease in specific gravity due to a decrease in weight of the hollow fiber. In addition, since air exists in the hollow part, there is an advantage in that thermal insulation/heat retention can also be maintained by using the low thermal conductivity of air.

In a general manufacturing method of such a hollow fiber, a polymer is discharged through a radiation hole having a slit that is not connected, and at the same time, outside air is pushed into the center of the radiation hole to form a hollow part, and before the discharged polymer is completely solidified, both discontinuous ends are formed. A method of manufacturing a hollow fiber by fusion bonding, arranging a polymer component soluble in the solution in the core portion where the hollow is to be formed, and arranging the fiber-forming component in the sheath portion to remove the soluble component of the core portion after composite spinning. A method of manufacturing hollow fibers by melting and dissolving is widely used. In the method of manufacturing a hollow fiber through elution after complex spinning by including the solution-soluble component, the solution-soluble component has been researched and commercialized as a component that can be dissolved in an alkali solution or water, but still has excellent solubility in water. As the development of components is insignificant, alkali-soluble components are widely used in the manufacture of hollow fibers.

The hollow fiber as described above is applied as a general clothing fabric in order to express its own lightness and heat insulation / heat retention on the fabric. Fabrics containing hollow fibers in which the characteristics are not expressed and the hollows are collapsed have a problem in that the mechanical strength is weakened and the passability of the post-processing process and the durability of the finished fabric are poor.

On the other hand, denim fabric is a type of cotton fabric, and generally refers to a fabric woven with cotton fiber or a blended yarn of cotton fiber and synthetic fiber, which is woven using yarn dyed yarn and white yarn or woven with yarn dyed yarn. do. At this time, it can be assumed that weaving the above-described hollow fiber together with yarn-dyed cotton yarn in order to increase the lightness or heat retention of the denim fabric. First, when weaving the hollow yarn, a tensile force is applied to the hollow yarn and As pressure is applied when intertwined with the hollow fiber, the hollow of the hollow fiber is crushed or collapsed, resulting in a decrease in lightness and heat retention. there is a problem with

In addition, in order to solve this problem, if a composite fiber that can be manufactured as a hollow fiber is woven together with yarn dyed cotton yarn, and then the weight loss process is performed in the fabric state, the dye of the yarn dyed in the weight loss process through an alkali solution There is a problem that the dyeing quality of the fabric is significantly deteriorated. In addition, in the case of fabrics, for example, fabrics, warp and weft yarns are woven together to form a structure, so the elution component may not be in smooth contact with the alkali solution in the weight loss process. However, there is a problem in that the dyeability of the hollow fiber is lowered.

Accordingly, in manufacturing denim fabric, it is urgent to develop a method for manufacturing denim fabric having excellent light weight, heat retention, and passability of the fabric through subsequent processes, as well as excellent expression of weight loss characteristics and excellent dyeing quality of the fabric.

The present invention has been devised in view of the above points, and the hollow shape deformation or collapse of the hollow fiber caused by the physical force applied to the yarn and / or fabric in the weaving process and the post-processing process and the resulting change in the shape of the fabric are minimized The purpose is to provide a method for manufacturing a denim fabric.

In addition, another object of the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing denim fabric that can excellently express the lightness and heat retention of denim fabric.

Furthermore, another object of the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing denim fabric having excellent dyeing quality.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention includes (1) a C-type composite fiber comprising a fiber-forming component as a sheath portion, including an alkali-soluble eluting component as a core portion, and spinning such that the core portion is exposed to the outside from one side of the sheath portion Preparing a fabric by preparing a first yarn comprising a and a second yarn comprising undyed cotton yarn, respectively; (2) performing a weight loss process with an alkali solution on the fabric in order to elute the core portion of the C-type composite fiber in the first yarn; and (3) performing a first dyeing process for the first yarn and a second dyeing process for the second yarn among the fabrics.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the C-type conjugate fiber may include any one or more of partially drawn yarn (POY), drawn yarn (SDY) and textured yarn.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the C-type composite fibers may be textured yarns having a fineness of 50 to 1,000 denier and a number of strands of 18 to 720.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the first yarn further comprises an elastic fiber as a core in order to improve the dissolution of the core of the C-type composite fiber, and the C-type composite fiber surrounds the core. It may be a blended yarn included in . At this time, the mixed yarn may be wound with a second yarn screening at 510 to 580 T / m. In addition, 200 to 1600 parts by weight of the first yarn may be provided with respect to 100 parts by weight of the mixed yarn.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the unyarned cotton yarn may have a fineness of 5 to 20.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, in step (1), the fabric may be a fabric woven by using the first yarn as a weft yarn and using the second yarn as a warp yarn.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, between the steps (1) and (2), a scouring reduction process, a sintering process, a desizing process, and a mercerization process may be further performed. At this time, the shaving process may be performed at a speed of the fabric passing through the torch unit at 50 to 100 m/min.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the first dyeing process is performed using one or more disperse dyes selected from the group consisting of azo-based, anthraquinone-based, dinitrophenyl amine-based, and quinoline-based dyes. and the second dyeing process may be performed using any one or more dyes selected from direct dyes, sulfur dyes, and reactive dyes.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the C-type composite fiber may satisfy the following conditions (a) to conditions (d).

(a) 30 ≤ core section area ratio (%) ≤ 65, (b) 20° ≤ slit angle (θ) ≤ 30°,

, (d)

(c)

, (d)

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the concentration of the alkali solution may be the concentration (%) ± 5% of the alkali solution according to Equation 1 below, more preferably the alkali solution according to Equation 1 Concentration (%) may be a concentration of ± 2%.

[Equation 1]

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, step (2) may be performed by rotating the fabric including the C-type composite fibers in an alkaline solution at a rotational speed of 200 to 300 mpm. More preferably, the rotational speed may be 200 to 270 mpm.

Hereinafter, terms used in the present invention will be described.

In the present invention, the term 'fiber' used herein means 'yarn' or 'thread', and refers to various types of conventional yarns and fibers.

The term 'eccentric distance' used in the present invention means the distance between the center of the cross section of the C-type composite fiber and the center of the core part included in the cross section.

The term 'composite fiber' used in the present invention includes the yarn itself manufactured by conjugate spinning or the composite processed fiber that has undergone a post-processing process such as drawing or false drawing, and before going through a weight loss process to produce hollow fibers It means the yarn of the state.

The term "reduction process" used in the present invention is a process of dissolving the core part included in the composite fiber with an alkali solution to remove the dissolved core part out of the fiber to manufacture the hollow fiber, and has the same meaning as the elution process.

Fabric as a term used in the present invention is meant to include both woven and knitted fabrics.

According to the present invention, the hollow collapse of the hollow fiber included in the fabric and the shape change of the fabric that occurs during the processing of the fabric are minimized, so that the volume of the final fabric is excellent, and thus, more excellent lightness and heat retention are obtained. can manifest. In addition, as the mechanical strength of the fabric before weight loss is ensured, the processability of the fabric can be improved and productivity can be increased. Furthermore, as the dyeing process is performed in the state of the fabric after the weight loss process, processing costs can be reduced compared to the dyeing process, and fabrics dyed in various colors can be realized. In addition, dye detachment and non-uniform dyeing are prevented, and as elution components in the weight loss process are smoothly eluted, denim fabric having more excellent dyeing quality can be manufactured.

1 is a flowchart of a manufacturing process of denim fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention;
2 is a cross-sectional view of a C-type composite fiber included in an embodiment of the present invention;
Figure 3 is a cross-sectional view of the C-type hollow fiber after the core portion is eluted from the C-type composite fiber included in an embodiment of the present invention;
Figure 4 is a cross-sectional photograph of the C-type hollow fiber after the core portion is eluted from the C-type composite fiber included in an embodiment of the present invention, Figures 4a to 4d are 30%, 40%, 50%, 60 A cross-sectional photograph of type C hollow fiber at %,
5 is a schematic diagram of a first yarn included in an embodiment of the present invention;
6 is a cross-sectional SEM image of C-type composite fibers among the first yarns included in an embodiment of the present invention, and
7 is a SEM photograph of the cross-section after weight loss of C-type composite fibers among the first yarns included in one embodiment of the present invention.

Hereinafter, with reference to the accompanying drawings, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail so that those skilled in the art can easily carry out the present invention. This invention may be embodied in many different forms and is not limited to the embodiments set forth herein. In order to clearly describe the present invention in the drawings, parts irrelevant to the description are omitted, and the same reference numerals are added to the same or similar components throughout the specification.

As shown in FIG. 1, the denim fabric according to the present invention is prepared through (1) a first yarn containing C-type composite fibers and a second yarn including undyed cotton yarn (S100), (2) the above Alkali reduction of the fabric in order to elute the core of the C-type composite fiber in the first yarn (S200) and (3) the first dyeing process for the first yarn and the second dyeing process for the second yarn in the fabric It can be manufactured through the performing step (S300).

In step (1) according to the present invention, the yarns used for manufacturing the fabric are first yarns containing C-type conjugate fibers and second yarns including undyed cotton yarns.

First, the first yarn will be described.

The first yarn includes a C-type composite fiber. As shown in FIG. 2, the C-type composite fiber 100 includes a fiber-forming component as a sheath portion 110 and an alkali-soluble elution component as a core portion 120, and the core portion 120 is a composite fiber spun to be exposed to the outside from one side of the sheath portion 110. The C-shaped composite fiber is a composite fiber at a stage before being manufactured into a hollow fiber having a C-shaped fiber cross section, as shown in FIG. 4 after elution of the core portion 120.

The sheath part 110 of the C-type composite fiber 100 is a part that forms the fiber part of the hollow fiber after the core part 120 is eluted, and can be used without limitation in the case of a compound that can be conventionally made into fibers. . However, preferably, the sheath portion 110 may be formed by using at least one of polyester-based, polyamide-based, polyurethane-based acrylic, olefin-based, and polyvinyl alcohol components as a fiber-forming component.

As an example, the polyester-based component may be used without limitation in the case of a known high molecular compound obtained by condensation and polymerization of a polyhydric carboxylic acid and a polyhydric alcohol, and preferably polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polytrimethylene terephthalate ( PTT), may be any one selected from the group consisting of polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), more preferably polyethylene terephthalate (PET). However, it is not limited to the types of polyester-based components described above, and polyester-based components having added functionality through additional functional groups may also be used.

In addition, as an example, the polyamide-based component may be used without limitation in the case of components that can be made of fibers, but preferably any one selected from the group consisting of nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 6.10 and aramid. and more preferably nylon 6. However, it is not limited to the types of polyamide-based components described above.

In addition, as an example, the olefin-based may be a known component such as polyethylene or polypropylene, and the acrylic-based may be polyacrylonitrile in which acrylonitrile is polymerized or a second monomer (eg, Vinylidene chloride) may be a copolymer copolymerized, but is not limited thereto.

Next, the core portion 120 of the C-type composite fiber 100 will be described.

The core portion 120 is formed of an alkali-soluble elution component, and is a component removed from the composite fiber through step (2) described later, and due to the elution component removed, the core portion 120 is a hollow fiber as shown in FIG. A hollow part may be formed.

The alkali-soluble eluting component may be used without limitation in the case of a conventional alkali-soluble eluting component used in the manufacture of composite fibers for the manufacture of hollow fibers. However, depending on the type of alkali-soluble eluting component, the dissolution rate may be different under the same reduction condition or may require a higher reduction condition, for example, a high-temperature alkali solution and/or a high-concentration alkali solution. Korean Patent Registration No. 2013-0141155 by is inserted as a reference in the present invention, and the alkali-soluble copolyester disclosed in the patent document can be used as an alkali-soluble eluting component according to an embodiment of the present invention.

Specifically, the alkali-soluble eluting component includes an acid component including terephthalic acid (TPA) and dimethylsulfurisophthalate sodium salt (DMSIP) and a diol component including ethylene glycol (EG), and polyalkylene It may be a polyester-based component including a copolymer obtained by polymerization and condensation of glycol. When using the above copolymer, it is possible to prevent a decrease in spinning performance due to frequent trimming and pack pressure increase in the composite spinning process compared to the case of using other types of alkali-soluble copolymers, and elution of the core of the prepared composite fiber There is an advantage in preventing the problem of deterioration in dyeing uniformity due to the non-uniform weight loss of the core part in the process. Specifically, the core portion may include a copolyester obtained by polymerization and condensation of polyalkylene glycol and an esterification reaction product including an acid component including terephthalic acid and dimethylsulfur isophthalate sodium salt and a diol component including ethylene glycol. can

In the esterification reaction product, an acid component including terephthalic acid and dimethylsulfurisophthalate sodium salt and a diol component including ethylene glycol are included in a molar ratio of 1: 1.1 to 2.0, and the terephthalic acid and dimethylsulfurisophthalate sodium salt are included. It may be a reactant reacted by including 0.1 to 3.0 mol% of dimethylsulfurisophthalate sodium salt relative to the total number of moles of the acid component.

When preparing the esterification reaction product, in addition to the above-mentioned type of acid component, known to belong to aromatic polyvalent carboxylic acids having 6 to 14 carbon atoms, aliphatic polyvalent carboxylic acids having 2 to 14 carbon atoms, and polyhydric carboxylic acids containing heterocycles. It may further contain the components of. In addition, the diol component may further include an aliphatic diol component having 3 to 14 ethylene glycol carbon atoms, but is not limited thereto.

The esterification reaction product may be preferably prepared at a temperature of 200 to 270° C. and a pressure of 1100 to 1350 Torr. If the above conditions are not satisfied, the esterification reaction time may be prolonged or a large amount of diethyl glycol may be formed as a by-reactant due to the influence of high temperature, and the problem of not being able to form an esterification reactant suitable for polymerization and condensation reactions due to a decrease in reactivity may occur. There may be problems that arise.

The prepared esterification reaction product may be prepared as a copolyester through polymerization and condensation with polyalkylene glycol. In this case, the polyalkylene glycol may be included in an amount of 7 to 14 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the esterification reactant. The polyalkylene glycol may preferably be polyethylene glycol, and the molecular weight of the polyalkylene glycol may be 1,000 to 10,000. If the molecular weight is less than 1,000, the alkali reduction process time may increase due to the decrease in alkali solubility, which may cause alkali attack of the fiber-forming polymer, and the defect rate due to non-uniform dyeing in the dyeing process of the fiber may increase due to non-uniform dissolution. There may be a problem with In addition, if the molecular weight exceeds 10,000, there are problems in that polymerization reactivity is lowered and the glass transition temperature of the formed copolyester is significantly lowered, resulting in lowered thermal properties and difficulty in spinning.

In addition, if polyalkylene glycol is included in less than 7 parts by weight, there is a problem in that alkali solubility is lowered, and if polyalkylene glycol is included in more than 14 parts by weight, the degree of polymerization is lowered and the glass transition temperature of alkali-soluble copolyester is reduced. is significantly lowered, resulting in deterioration in thermal properties, and alkali dissolution properties are too high to obtain uniform dissolution properties, which may cause non-uniform dyeing of processed fibers and/or a decrease in mechanical strength.

The polycondensation reaction may be preferably prepared at a temperature of 250 to 300 ° C and a pressure of 0.3 to 1.0 Torr. can happen

In addition, the polycondensation reaction may further include a catalyst. The catalyst may use an antimony compound to secure appropriate reactivity and lower the production cost, and a phosphorus compound to suppress discoloration at high temperatures due to thermal decomposition, and antimony compounds and phosphorus compounds may use compounds known in the art. As possible, the present invention is not particularly limited thereto.

The prepared fiber-forming component and the alkali-soluble eluting component may be composite-spun through a conventional method so that the alkali-soluble eluting component forms a core portion and the fiber-forming component forms a sheath portion. At this time, the spinneret hole may be designed to expose the core part to one side of the sheath part. In addition, the weight ratio of the sheath part and the core part may be 70:30 to 35:65. If the core part exceeds 65% by weight, the strength after elution of the composite fiber is lowered, and the tear strength of the fabric is lowered, resulting in easy tearing. There may be a problem that effects such as lightness and heat retention of the manufactured hollow fibers may be reduced.

The spun composite fibers may be partially stretched yarns or stretched yarns manufactured by appropriately adjusting the spinning speed, winding speed, and temperature conditions of the roller during winding, and through this, the mechanical strength, weavability, weavability, etc. of the composite fibers can be improved. there is. In addition, the composite fibers may be textured yarns that have undergone a separate yarn processing process, and may be, for example, air textured yarns, false twisted yarns, etc., through which physical properties such as additional bulkiness and easy shrinkage may be expressed.

The fineness of the C-type composite fiber is 50 to 1000 denier, and may be 18 to 720 filaments, but is not limited thereto.

On the other hand, according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the C-type composite fiber can satisfy the following conditions (a) to condition (d), through which the weight loss of the core part is improved, and the weight loss is more uniform. , it may be more advantageous than manufacturing a C-type hollow fiber having mechanical strength in which the hollow part does not collapse even after weight loss.

First, as the above condition (a), 30 ≤ core section area ratio (%) ≤ 65 may be satisfied. The core section area ratio (%) refers to the percentage of the cross-sectional area of the core included in the composite fiber with respect to the total cross-sectional area of the C-type composite fiber. If the cross-sectional area ratio (%) of the core part is less than 30%, there is a problem in that the function as a hollow fiber is weak due to low heat retention and lightness of the fabric after the weight loss process, and the cross-sectional area ratio (%) of the core part is 65% If it is exceeded, due to the thin structure of the sheath part after the weight loss process in the fabric, the strength is lowered and the tear strength of the fabric is lowered, resulting in a problem in that the final product is easily torn.

Next, as the above condition (b), 20° ≤ slit angle (θ) ≤ 30° may be satisfied. The slit angle θ means an angle between a straight line connecting the center of the core part and discontinuous points of the sheath part, respectively. Specifically, Figure 4 shows a cross-sectional view according to the hollowness of the hollow fiber after the elution process of the C-type composite fiber according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention. As can be seen in FIG. 4, it can be seen that the hollow fiber has a constant slit angle (θ in FIG. 4d) regardless of the hollowness (%).

The reason why the C-type composite fiber included in one embodiment of the present invention can have a constant slit angle (θ) regardless of the cross-sectional area ratio (%) of the core part is that when the cross-sectional area ratio (%) of the core part is small, the entire cross-section of the composite fiber This is because the center of the cross-section of the core is biased towards the open slit of the C-type composite fiber, but as the cross-sectional area of the core (%) increases, the center of the cross-section of the core moves toward the center of the entire cross-section of the C-type composite fiber in the entire cross-section of the composite fiber. am. If the slit angle (θ) is less than 20 °, the elution time of the core part of the composite fiber included in the fabric is increased in the process of performing the elution process of the fabric containing the C-type composite fiber according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention. There may be a problem in that the process time is extended, and the extended elution process time may cause a fatal problem in that the quality of the fabric is lowered by causing alkali attack of the C-type composite fiber sheath. In addition, if the slit angle is less than 20 ° when the cross-sectional area ratio (%) of the core part is greatly increased, there may be a problem in that the elution time of the core part of the composite fiber included in the fabric is further increased. Furthermore, there may be residual cores that are not eluted during the elution process of the cores of the composite fibers included in the fabric, so that the hollowness may be reduced, thereby reducing the effect of lightness and heat retention of the fabric. Furthermore, there may be a problem of concern about deterioration of the quality of the fabric due to the occurrence of dyeing defects due to uneven elution.

In addition, if the slit angle (θ) exceeds 30 °, the circular structure is lost and air layers cannot be effectively imparted to the hollow, which may cause a problem of deterioration in the heat retention of the fabric, and the composite fiber or C-shaped hollow after the weight loss process Since the strength of the fiber may be lowered, there may be a problem in that the tear strength of the fabric is lowered. In addition, since elution conditions are different when the slit angle is changed according to the hollowness (%), there may be a problem of lowering workability during the post-processing process.

를 만족할 수 있다.Next, as condition (c),

can be satisfied.

Specifically, the slit interval (d) is an interval corresponding to D in FIG. 4D and means the distance (μm) between both discontinuous points of the sheath. By satisfying the above condition (c), the slit interval (d) also increases as the cross-sectional area ratio (%) of the core part increases, so that the above condition can be satisfied. As these conditions are satisfied, the elution time of the core part of the composite fiber can be uniform regardless of the cross-sectional area ratio of the core part in the elution process of the fabric containing the C-type composite fiber, and through this, even when the cross-sectional area ratio of the core part is large, the core part As in the case where the cross-sectional area ratio is small, the core part is eluted more quickly, so that the sheath part of the C-type composite fiber included in the fabric of the present invention can be a high-quality fabric in which alkali damage is minimized.

If the above condition (c) is not satisfied, there is a problem in that the manufacturing time in the elution process is extended, and the core portion remains in the hollow portion of the C-type hollow fiber remaining as yarn after the fabric reduction process, resulting in uneven elution. There is a problem in that the quality of the fabric may be deteriorated due to poor dyeing, and the decrease in hollowness due to the remaining core portion that is not eluted may cause deterioration or loss of the fabric's function. In addition, due to the extension of the elution process time, there is a problem that the sheath part of the C-type composite fiber may be alkali-invaded and the quality may be deteriorated.

을 만족할 수 있다.Next, as condition (d),

can be satisfied.

The eccentric distance (s) is the distance (μm) between the center of the cross-section of the C-type composite fiber and the center of the cross-section of the core part, R ₁ is the diameter of the entire cross-section of the C-type composite fiber (μm), and R ₂ is the C-type composite It means the diameter (μm) of the cross section of the core part of the fiber. If the above condition (d) is not satisfied, that is, if the position of the core part moves to the center of the cross-section of the C-type composite fiber instead of the open slit side of the sheath part in the C-type composite fiber having the same core section area ratio (eccentric distance If is small) The elution rate of the core part decreases and / or the elution time is extended, so that the time of the elution process may be prolonged and dyeing defects may occur due to uneven elution, and the sheath part of the C-type composite fiber is attacked by alkali and the fabric quality is deteriorated. There may be problems.

The first yarn may further include an elastic fiber as a screening in order to improve the dissolution of the core of the C-type composite fiber. As shown in FIG. 2, the core portion of the C-type composite fiber is exposed on one side of the composite fiber, and the elution of the core portion in the weight loss process is affected by how continuously the exposed core portion can be in contact with the alkali solution. That is, when the C-type composite fiber is immersed in an alkali solution while covering the exposed core portion from the outer surface, the elution property is naturally reduced. On the other hand, when the C-type composite fiber is eluted in a yarn state, the core portion exposed to the outer surface of the fiber is less likely to be covered during the weight loss process. However, when the weight loss process is performed after manufacturing the C-type composite fiber into fabric, the exposed core part of the C-type composite fiber is covered by the adjacent C-type composite fiber or a heterogeneous fiber woven together, so it is not well exposed to the alkali solution. This may cause an extension of the weight loss time, and may cause a problem of alkali attack due to the extension of the weight loss process.

Accordingly, the first yarn according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention may be a mixed fiber yarn having an elastic fiber in addition to the above-described C-type composite fiber, more preferably, as shown in FIG. 5, the elastic fiber 200 is used as a core, It may be a blended yarn coated so as to surround the outer circumference of the elastic fiber 200 by using the C-shaped composite fiber 100 as the first yarn. In the fabric having the mixed fiber yarn as the first yarn, instantaneous separation may frequently occur at the contact point of the warp and weft yarns and the contact point between adjacent yarns due to the fluid force caused by the flow of the fluid applied to the fabric in the alkali solution during the weight loss process. In addition, the alkali solution flowing into the spaced gap has the advantage of allowing the core portion exposed on one side of the C-type composite fiber to continuously contact the alkali solution so that the core portion can be eluted more smoothly and quickly. This is the result of the elastic fiber provided in the first yarn repeating microscopic expansion and contraction or vibration by the fluid force in the alkali solution, and through this, the advantage of further improving the elution of the C-type composite fiber in the fabric state There is, and the manufactured fabric may have more improved elasticity.

In addition, the elastic fiber 200 can minimize distortion or collapse of the hollow part due to deformation of the sheath part in the C-type hollow fiber from which the core part is eluted after performing the weight loss process in step (2), which will be described later. This is because the elastic fiber 200 provided in the first yarn at that point disperses the external force applied to a specific point of the fabric, so that only the minimized external force is C in preparation for the external force applied to the C-type hollow fiber when there is no elastic fiber. Deformation of the sheath portion can be minimized as the molded hollow fiber receives.

At this time, the mixed filament yarn may be a yarn wound so that the super yarn C-type composite fiber at 510 to 580 T/m surrounds the elastic fiber as the core. If the first yarn is wound by exceeding 580T/m, it is difficult for the core part of the C-type composite fiber to be exposed to the alkali solution, so the weight loss concentration/temperature must be further increased or the weight loss time must be further extended, thereby causing alkali damage. there is. In addition, if the sheath yarn is wound at less than 510 T/m, the area of the elastic fiber exposed to the outside significantly increases, so the elastic fiber, which is the screening process for the composite fiber, is used in the weight loss process, an example As a result, the degree of embrittlement in the alkaline solution is significantly increased, and the yarn yarn can be exposed to the outside on the woven fabric, so the tactile feeling between the part of the fabric where the yarn yarn is exposed and the part of the fabric where the yarn yarn yarn is not exposed This is different, and there is a problem in that dyeing defects occur. In particular, in the case of the portion of the fabric exposed to screening, despite the dyeing process for the first yarn to be described later, dyeing is not performed properly, so there is a problem in that the final fabric looks gray.

In addition, 200 to 1600 parts by weight of the first yarn may be provided with respect to 100 parts by weight of the mixed yarn. If the first yarn is provided in an amount of 1600 parts by weight or more, there may be a problem in that it is difficult to express the desired effect as an elastic fiber. There may be problems such as an increase in the exposed area of the screening in one yarn, alkali removal of the screening, poor dyeing, and poor feel of the fabric.

The elastic fiber 200 may be used without limitation in the case of a fiber having elasticity and elastic restoring power. As a non-limiting example of this, it may be a polyurethane-based fiber. On the other hand, in order to express a more improved weight loss characteristic in the fabric state, the elastic fiber 200 has a strength of 70.0 g/de' or more, an elongation of 500% or more, TP _{1 of} 3.6 g/de' or more, and TP ₂ of 8.8 g/de'. or more, more preferably 70.0 to 110.0 g/de' in strength, 500 to 610% in elongation, TP ₁ 3.6 to 5.2 d/de', and TP ₂ 8.8 to 12.0 g/de'. At this time, TP ₁ means the load when the length of the specimen is stretched by 100%, and TP ₂ means the load when the length of the specimen is stretched by 200%. If any one of the strength, elongation, TP ₁ and TP ₂ of the elastic fiber is not satisfied, there is a problem that the weight loss rate of the fabric is lowered and the weight loss time must be increased. problems may further increase. In addition, if the above range is exceeded, the fineness of screening may increase, and in this case, considering the fineness of the first yarn, the content of superfine yarn inevitably decreases. It is difficult to achieve, and problems such as staining unevenness may further occur.

In addition, the elastic fiber may be a fiber having a fineness of 20 to 100 denier, more preferably 35 to 80 denier, and 1 to 5 filaments, but is not limited thereto.

Next, a second yarn including cotton yarn, which is a second yarn made of fabric together with the above-described C-type composite fiber, will be described.

The second yarn includes cotton yarn, and may be used without limitation in the case of conventional cotton yarn or cotton yarn commonly included in denim fabric. The cotton yarn may have a fineness of 5 to 30, more preferably 5 to 20, but is not limited thereto.

On the other hand, it is common for conventional denim fabrics to be fabricated in a state in which cotton yarn is dyed with indigo dye. However, it is very difficult to continuously maintain the yarn-dyed quality after the reduction process under general reduction conditions through an alkali solution for cotton yarn yarn-dyed through the indigo dye, etc., and the dye is separated from the cotton yarn, making the denim fabric look gray There is a problem that the dyeing quality is very degraded.

Accordingly, the second yarn according to the present invention is provided with unyarned cotton yarn, and through this, even if an alkali reduction process is performed after fabrication, there is an advantage in that the problem of deterioration in dyeing quality itself is prevented.

As the second yarn, a heterogeneous fiber may be further provided in addition to the cotton yarn, and the physical properties of the corresponding fiber may be expressed on the fabric through the provided heterogeneous fiber. The heterogeneous fibers can be used without limitation in the case of conventionally known natural or synthetic fibers, and the mixing ratio can also be changed in consideration of the degree of physical properties to be expressed in cotton yarn or heterogeneous fibers. The invention is not particularly limited in this regard.

The first yarn containing the above-described C-type conjugate fiber and the second yarn including undyed cotton yarn may be woven or knitted into fabric. The fabric may be a fabric through weaving or a knitted fabric through knitting, and preferably may be a fabric. The fabric may be embodied in at least one of plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave, and may be a variable fabric obtained by combining or modifying several tissues. Since the specific type or description of the structure of the fabric can be employed as it is, the present invention does not specifically explain this.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fabric may be a fabric manufactured by using a first yarn containing C-type conjugate fibers as a weft yarn and disposing a second yarn containing undyed cotton yarn in a warp direction, which Through this, there is an advantage that the tear strength of the fabric can be implemented at the desired level even after the weight loss process. If the fabric is woven with the same organization by replacing the warp and weft yarns, the tear strength of the fabric is lowered after weight loss, which may cause a problem of being easily torn.

The denim fabric may have a density of 30 to 100 yarns/inch when the first yarn is a weft yarn and a density of 50 to 150 yarns/inch when the second yarn is a warp yarn. If the density of the warp/weft yarn is further increased, the reduction process described later may not be smooth, and if the density of the warp/warp yarn is decreased, there are problems in that fabric see-through and tensile strength may significantly decrease. In addition, the fabric may have a basis weight of 150 to 500 g/m 2 based on before weight loss, but is not limited thereto.

The manufactured fabric may be subjected to a conventional pretreatment process before dyeing, and preferably, a reduction process, a shaving process, a desizing process, and a mercerization process may be further performed.

Among the scouring reduction processes, scouring refers to a process of removing fats and oils or sizing agents added to facilitate the manufacturing and post-processing of the first yarn and the second yarn, and pectin that may be included in the cotton yarn, and oils and fats remaining in the yarn, etc. Substances of the can lead to deterioration of the dyeing quality as it inhibits the penetration of the dye, so it can be performed before performing the dyeing process. In addition, the shrinking refers to a process of shrinking the fabric by untwisting the false-twist yarn included in the fabric through heat or physical force, and through the shrinking process, the removal of fats and oils or size agents present between the filament gaps of the yarn It can be easy. In particular, when the C-type composite fiber provided in the first yarn is made of false-twist yarn, the slit through which the core part can elute may not be exposed to the outside. There is a problem in that the reduction process execution time is significantly extended and alkali invasion of the sheath part may occur. Accordingly, in the alkali reduction process performed in step (2) when the fabric is treated in the reduction process, the alkali solution penetrates easily, so the reduction process is performed at a high speed and there is an advantage in that uneven weight loss can be minimized.

The refining and reduction process may be performed individually or simultaneously, and a specific method may be performed by employing a conventional method. As an example of this, alkali components (soda ash, ammonia water, caustic soda, etc.), surfactants (nonionic anion activators, etc.), organic solvents (trichlen, picklen, etc.), oxidizing agents (hydrogen peroxide, sodium chlorite, etc.) may be used alone or in combination of two or more to process the fabric at a rate of 20 to 70 m/min at a temperature of 80 to 95 ° C.

Next, a brushing process that can be further performed on the scoured and reduced fabric will be described.

The shaving process is a process of removing fibrils present on the surface of the fabric, and when the dyeing process is performed in a state in which the fibrils are not removed, there may be a problem in that the dyeing quality is lowered. The moso process may be performed through a conventional method in the art. The shaving process may perform the shaving process on one side or both sides of the fabric, and even when shaving both sides, the shaving process may be performed simultaneously or each side may be sequentially performed. When the shaving process is performed sequentially on each side, after the shaving process on one side, the fabric can be quenched, and then the other side can be subjected to the shaving process again, through which the removal of fibrils can be made more uniform, It has the advantage of preventing over-shrinkage of the fabric. At this time, the rapid cooling temperature may be 40 ~ 50 ℃, if the rapid cooling is less than 40 ℃, there may be a problem that the fabric becomes hard, and if the rapid cooling exceeds 50 ℃, uniform fibril removal effect to the desired level There are problems that may not be achieved.

The moss process may be performed through a known moss device. The hair removal device may include a torch unit capable of removing fibrils by applying a flame to the surface of the fabric moved through a supply roller, a guide roller, and the like. The torch unit may be provided in plural numbers to uniformly remove the fibrils on the surface of the fabric and may be arranged at regular intervals, and the shaving process may be performed while the fabric maintains a predetermined distance from the torch unit. At this time, the moving speed of the fabric may proceed at a speed of 50 to 100 m/min, but is not limited thereto.

A desizing process may be further performed on the fabric from which the hair is removed through the above-described hair brushing process.

The desizing process is a process of decomposing and removing arcs included in the fabric, and a known method may be employed as a method of dissolving and removing the arcs. At this time, the number includes a starch size agent, a protein size agent, a seaweed size agent, and a synthetic size agent attached to the warp yarn. When the dyeing process is performed without removing such a size agent, dyeing defects such as poor dye solution penetration, tailing, dyeing, and poor fastness may be caused. The type of desizing agent used in the desizing process may vary depending on the type of desizing to be removed, so the present invention is not particularly limited thereto. In addition, desizing conditions may also be applied differently depending on the type of desizing agent to be removed and the type of desizing agent used, so the present invention is not particularly limited thereto. The specific type of desizing agent and desizing conditions may employ known inventions, and detailed description thereof is omitted in the present invention. The desizing process is, for example, carried out at a speed of 50 m/min at a temperature of 95° C., with 18 g/l starch desizing agent (A-200), 1.8 g/l metal ion sequestering agent (K-200), 5.5 It can be performed using a desizing liquid containing g/ℓ of a scouring penetrant (HW-30).

On the other hand, after treating the desizing liquid on the fabric, it can be aged for 4 to 12 hours at 20 ~ 30 ℃ and normal humidity conditions, which means that the desizing liquid penetrates into the yarn of the fabric (batching) to better remove the call , for more uniform arc removal. In this case, the aging may be performed while rotating at a predetermined temperature and humidity.

After performing the aging, a water washing process may be further performed to remove the desizing liquid and desizing remaining on the fabric.

The fabric subjected to the desizing process may be further subjected to a continuous pretreatment process.

The continuous pretreatment process is a process for swelling and shrinking fibers in order to improve the adsorption of dyes in the dyeing process according to step (3) to be performed after giving gloss to the fabric, and is limited to continuous pretreatment processes known in the art can be used without Preferably, the continuous pretreatment process may be performed by padding, coating, or spraying the fabric in a continuous pretreatment solution. In addition, the continuous pretreatment solution can be selected without limitation from known continuous pretreatment solutions, so the present invention is not particularly limited thereto. It may be a solution containing 0.5 to 50 g/L of caustic soda, 1 to 3 g/L of fruit stabilizer, and 1 to 5 g/L of oil remover as other additives. The continuous pretreatment process may be performed at a temperature of 80 to 100° C. and may be performed at a speed of 25 to 40 m/min, but is not limited thereto. Meanwhile, in the continuous pretreatment process, as in the desizing process, after treating the continuous pretreatment solution, aging may be further performed under the same conditions, and a water washing process may be further performed after the aging process.

Next, a mercerization process may be further performed on the fabric subjected to the continuous pretreatment process.

The mercerization process is a process for improving physical properties, particularly gloss, dyeing, reactivity, etc., by inducing structural changes due to swelling of fibers, and may be performed mainly by immersing the fabric in an alkaline solution. In particular, according to one embodiment of the present invention, the cotton yarn included in the inclination of the fabric can swell and the natural twist can be eliminated, and when treated in a tense state so that the length does not shrink, gloss and touch like silk can be expressed in the fabric, It can enhance the luxurious feel of the fabric. The mercerization process may be performed through a mercerization process known in the art, so the present invention is not particularly limited thereto. As an example of this, the concentration of the alkali solution may be 15 to 30 BAUME, normal pressure, and about 20 to 60 minutes at a temperature of 15 to 30 ° C.

After the pre-treatment process up to the above-mentioned mercerization process, a pre-setting process may be further performed if necessary, and the heat-setting process may be a known heat-setting condition. Not limiting.

On the other hand, the scouring process and the reduction process may be performed after the reduction process is performed first, and then the scouring process is performed after the priming process and the desizing process described later and before the mercerization process. Accordingly, the order of each process described above is not limited thereto, Depending on the purpose, the order of each process may be appropriately changed or some processes may be performed twice or more, and the present invention is not particularly limited thereto.

After performing the above-described various processes for the fabric manufactured in step (1), as step (2) of the present invention, the fabric is reduced to an alkaline solution in order to elute the core portion of the C-type composite fiber in the first yarn. Steps to perform the process.

Through the step (2), the C-type composite fibers included in the fabric can be implemented as C-type hollow fibers. The C-type composite fibers satisfying the preferred conditions (a) to (d) provided in the present invention have mechanical strength sufficient to ensure weavability even when the fabric is manufactured in the C-type hollow fiber state by reducing the yarn weight. However, as a result of checking the degree of collapse of the hollow in the fabric state, hollow deformation and collapse still occurred, and the fabric containing the fiber with the hollow collapsed has a problem in that the mechanical strength is particularly weak based on the fiber, and the tensile strength is particularly low. can Accordingly, it is advantageous to further minimize the hollow collapse of the C-type hollow fibers included in the fabric by performing the weight loss process in the fabric state after the fabric including the C-type composite fiber is manufactured.

However, despite the fact that the cross-sectional structure of the C-type composite fiber is designed to significantly increase the elution and elution rate of the inner core and ensure mechanical strength, the slit in which the core is exposed on the surface of the C-type composite fiber when manufactured as a fabric If the direction of is not constant and the direction of the slit is not toward the upper and/or lower surface of the fabric, the slit is covered by adjacent yarns, so even if the alkali reduction process through step (2) is performed, the desired level can be achieved. A problem in which the core portion is not removed may occur. If the alkali reduction time is increased to compensate for this, the mechanical strength of the yarn due to the alkali attack of the sheath part of the C-type composite fiber and / or the alkali devastation of the elastic fiber, which can be provided in the first yarn, causes a weakening of the yarn's mechanical strength and uneven dyeing. Another problem may arise.

In particular, in order to prevent this, mixed fiber yarns including elastic fibers can be used as the first yarn for screening. Even in this case, it may be difficult to always achieve the desired level of uniformity in weight loss, so according to one preferred embodiment of the present invention , In step (2), the reduction process may be performed by rotating the fabric in an alkaline solution at a rotational speed of 200 to 300 mpm. If the weight loss process is performed by simply immersing the fabric in an alkali solution, it may be difficult to perform uniform weight loss for all C-type composite fibers due to the random slit direction of the C-type composite fibers in the fabric. Therefore, by putting the fabric into the alkali solution and then rotating it at a certain rate, it is possible to induce an external force such as collision between the alkali solution and the fabric. Elution speed is increased and uniform elution is possible, minimizing the alkali attack of the sheath part and improving the dyeing quality. In addition, when elastic fibers are provided as the screening of the first yarn, the vibration of the elastic fibers and the spacing between warp/weft yarns or between weft yarns due to expansion and contraction are more likely to occur due to the fluid force applied to the fabric in the alkali solution, so that within a short time There is an advantage of obtaining a fabric with a more uniform weight loss.

If the rotational force applied to the fabric is applied at a rotational speed of less than 200 mpm, there is a problem in that it is not eluted at a desired level. If the rotational force is applied in excess of 300 mpm, there is a problem of causing hollow collapse of the C-type hollow fiber during the elution process due to excessive force applied to the fabric.

In addition, for more improved uniform weight loss of the C-type composite fiber, preferably the alkali solution may be a concentration (%) ± 5% of the concentration of the alkali solution according to Equation 1 below, more preferably Equation 1 The concentration (%) of the alkali solution according to may be a concentration of ± 2%.

[Equation 1]

If the concentration of the alkali solution in the weight loss process exceeds the concentration (%) of the alkali solution + 5% according to Equation 1 above, alkali invasion of the sheath occurs, resulting in a decrease in fabric strength, In addition, when the sheath is invaded, a problem of disproportionate salt due to dye penetration may occur in the part where the crack is generated, and if the concentration (%) of the alkali solution according to Equation 1 above is less than 5%, the amount required for the reduction process There is a problem with time extension. In addition, as the number of ion particles required for the elution reaction is not sufficient, the elution component does not sufficiently react with the alkali solution, which may cause a problem of uneven dyeing due to an insignificant amount. Furthermore, C-type composite fibers arranged in a slit direction suitable for elution in the weft of the fabric are rapidly eluted, but the time required for weight loss may be further extended for C-type composite fibers arranged in such a way that they do not. In this case, first As the sheath portion of the reduced C-type hollow fiber is exposed to an alkali solution for a long time, alkali attack may increase.

Step (2) may be performed at a temperature of 60 to 140 ° C, more preferably 90 to 140 ° C, and if the temperature is less than 60 ° C, the activation energy required for the reaction cannot be sufficiently obtained, and the reduction rate is very delayed. As the concentration of alkali needs to be increased, there are problems in that the processing cost increases and alkali damage can be caused. When the temperature exceeds 130℃, the speed of weight loss varies depending on the slit direction of the C-type composite fiber arranged in the fabric due to the rapid reaction speed. There may be major problems that arise.

In addition, the step (2) may be performed for 10 to 120 minutes, and if the weight loss process is performed for less than 10 minutes, there is a problem in that the alkali concentration must be increased to compensate for the dyeing deviation due to the unweighted amount. However, if the time exceeds 120 minutes, there may be a problem of invasion of the cis part due to a delay in the alkali reaction time.

After performing the weight loss process, a known water washing process may be further performed.

The fabric that has undergone the above-described reduction process may then be subjected to a dyeing process as step (3) according to the present invention. In the dyeing process, the dyeing process can be performed simultaneously on the second yarn containing the undyed cotton yarn and the first yarn containing the C-type hollow fiber, but depending on the difference in dyeing conditions according to the material characteristics of the yarn, 2 A dyeing process may be performed for each yarn of the species.

First, the dyeing process for the second yarn containing undyed cotton yarn may follow a conventional manufacturing method of denim fabric manufactured by performing a fabric state dyeing process, and as non-limiting examples, a dyeing method, a printing method, It may be performed by a high-pressure dyeing method, a rolling method, a dyeing method, a spraying method, a dyeing method, a soldering method, and the like, and each dyeing method may be a known method, so the present invention will not specifically describe it. The dye used in the dyeing process of cotton yarn may use any one or more of direct dyes, sulfur dyes, reactive dyes, and vat dyes, and specific types of each dye may use known dyes that can be applied to cotton yarn. The invention is not particularly limited in this regard.

Next, the dyeing process for the first yarn containing the C-type hollow fiber may be performed through a dyeing method according to the type of fiber-forming component of the C-type hollow fiber. For example, when the C-type hollow fiber is a polyester fiber, the dye may be a disperse dye, and the disperse dye may be an azo-based, anthraquinone-based, dinitrophenyl amin-based, or quinoline-based dye. It may be any one or more of the like, but is not limited thereto. In addition, through the disperse dye, the fabric can be dyed under room temperature or high temperature conditions and normal pressure or high pressure pressure conditions, and since the specific temperature and pressure conditions vary depending on the type of dye, the present invention relates to this Not particularly limited.

When the dyeing process is performed for each of the second yarn containing the undyed cotton yarn and the first yarn containing the C-type hollow fiber, there is no restriction on the order.

The fabric subjected to the dyeing process may further undergo a drying process and a heat setting (tenter) process. The drying process and heat setting process may be a known drying process and heat setting process after dyeing applied to fabrics including conventional cotton and synthetic fibers, so the present invention is not particularly limited thereto.

Although the present invention will be described in more detail through the following examples, the following examples are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, which should be interpreted to aid understanding of the present invention.

<Example 1>

C-type composite fiber with 288 strands of 600 denier prepared through Preparation Example 1 below, 70 denier in fineness and 1 strand, strength of 108.6 g/de', elongation of 602%, TP ₁ 5.08 g/de', TP ₂ 10.82 g / de' polyurethane fiber (DUPONT, LYCRA), using the polyurethane fiber as a core, and using the C-type composite fiber as a sheath, 550 T / M, the first yarn blended so that the first yarn is Z yarn Yarn was prepared. In addition, undyed cotton yarn (Jeonnam textile, ne 17 count) was prepared as a second yarn. The prepared first yarn was introduced into the weft yarn, and the second yarn was introduced into the warp yarn to weave a twill weave fabric having a basis weight of 361 g/m 2 . At this time, the warp yarn was designed with a density of 80 yarns/inch for the second yarn, and the first yarn for the weft yarn was designed with a density of 50 yarns/inch. A scouring reduction process, a wool process, a desizing process, and a mercerization process were performed on the fabric after weaving was completed according to a known method.

Thereafter, an alkali solution was prepared for the weight loss process, and the fabric was put into the 110 ° C alkali solution whose concentration was adjusted by the method according to Preparation Example 2 below. At this time, the introduced fabric was rotated in an alkaline solution at a rotational speed of 240 mpm for 40 minutes to elute the core portion of the C-type composite fiber in the first yarn. Thereafter, the weight-weighted fabric was washed with water and dried by a known method. Thereafter, in order to dye the polyester-type C-type hollow fiber of the first yarn in the dyeing process, dyeing was performed at 125 ° C. for 135 minutes at normal pressure through a disperse dye (Dystar Co., Dianix), and then washed with water. Then, in order to dye the cotton yarn with the second yarn of the fabric, dyeing was performed at 80 ° C. for 120 minutes at normal pressure through a reactive dye (Dystar, Levafix), and then washed again.

Thereafter, through a drying process and a heat setting process (190, 40 m/min), lightweight denim fabric having a basis weight of 250 g/m 2 as shown in Table 1 below was manufactured.

* Preparation Example 1

Among the first yarns, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) was prepared as the sheath portion of the C-type composite fiber. In addition, in order to prepare the core part, the terephthalic acid (TPA) and ethylene glycol (EG) compound were adjusted in a molar ratio of 1: 1.2, and dimethylsulfurisophthalate sodium was compared to the total moles of terephthalic acid (TPA) and dimethylsulfurisophthalate sodium salt (DMSIP). The salt was adjusted to 1.5 mol%. As a catalyst, 10.0 parts by weight of lithium acetate was mixed with 100 parts by weight of dimethylsulfur isophthalate sodium salt (DMSIP) and esterified under a pressure of 1140 Torr at 250 ° C to obtain an ester reactant, and the reaction rate was 97.5% . The formed ester reactant is transferred to a polycondensation reactor, 10.0 parts by weight of polyethylene glycol (PEG) having a molecular weight of 6000 is added to 100 parts by weight of the ester reactant, and 400 ppm of antimony trioxide is added as a polycondensation catalyst so that the final pressure is 0.5 Torr. While gradually reducing the pressure, the temperature was raised to 285° C. to prepare a copolymer through condensation polymerization.

After melting the copolymer and polyethylene terephthalate at 270 ° C., conjugate spinning of polyethylene terephthalate and the copolymer at a weight ratio of 40: 60, respectively, and partially drawn yarn (POY ) was prepared and then 8 plyed to prepare a false twist yarn (DTY) under yarn speed of 600 m/min, number of twists of 3500TM (twist/m) Z strand, and heat setting at 180 to 185 ° C.

At this time, the composite spun C-type composite fiber had a slit interval of 2.47 μm, an eccentric distance of 1.65 μm, a cross-sectional diameter of the C-type composite fiber of 14.62 μm, a cross-sectional diameter of the core part of 11.32 μm, and a slit angle of 25 °, and the conditions according to the present invention (c ) was 0.25, and the value of condition (d) was 1.28. In addition, the strength after twisting was 3.91 g/de' and the elongation was 28.89%.

*Preparation example 2

The concentration of the sodium hydroxide solution used in the reduction process was calculated according to Equation 1 below.

[Equation 1]

Specifically, based on a fabric width of 1.85m and a length of 1000m, the total weight of the C-type composite fiber core portion in the fabric of Example 1 is 111.2kg, and the concentration of the alkali solution based on the total weight of the alkali solution to be injected is 1500kg. It was calculated as 3.1% according to Equation 1, and an alkali solution was prepared to have such a concentration.

<Examples 2 to 12>

It was manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1, but the manufacturing conditions of the fabric were changed as shown in Table 2 below to manufacture a denim fabric as shown in Table 2 below.

<Comparative Example 1>

It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, but instead of the C-type composite fiber in the first yarn, the C-type composite fiber was soft-winded to a paper pipe for yarn dyeing, and then eluted in an aqueous solution of 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide at 95 ° C. at normal pressure. Denim fabrics shown in Table 2 below were prepared using the prepared C-type hollow fibers.

<Comparative Example 2>

It was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, but instead of the undyed cotton yarn, dyed cotton yarn (Jeonnam Textile, ne 17 thread dyed yarn) was used, and the dyeing process performed on the cotton yarn after the weight loss process was omitted, and Table 2 and The same denim fabric was manufactured.

<Experimental example>

The following physical properties of the denim fabrics prepared in Examples and Comparative Examples were evaluated and shown in Table 2.

1. Weight loss rate (%)

The weight of the fabric after weight loss compared to the weight of the fabric with a width of 1.85 m and a length of 1000 m before weight loss was measured and calculated according to Equation 2 below.

[Equation 2]

2. Hollow collapse rate (%)

A SEM photograph was taken of the vertical cross section in the oblique direction of the fabric, and C-type hollow fibers were observed among the first yarns included within 200 μm × 200 μm, respectively, in the vertical cross section of the fabric. Among all observed C-shaped hollow fibers, the number of fibers in which the hollowness was distorted by 30% or more of the hollowness rate or the hollowness was collapsed was counted, and expressed as a percentage. At this time, the total number of C-type hollow fibers included in the area was counted for the case where the C-type hollow fibers were completely included in the area, except for the case where only a part was included over.

3. Remains of the core

The weight of the core portion provided in the fabric having a width of 1.85 m and a length of 1000 m before weight loss was calculated, and the weight of the fabric before weight loss and the weight of the fabric after weight loss were measured and calculated according to Equation 3 below.

[Equation 3]

4. Staining uniformity

After preparing a specimen by cutting the manufactured fabric to a length of 2 m, the specimen was visually observed to evaluate whether or not the dyeing was uniform. Based on Example 8 as "5", if it occurred less than that, it was relatively evaluated as 1 to 4.

5. Color quality of fabric

After preparing a specimen by cutting the prepared fabric to a length of 2 m, the specimen was observed with the naked eye to observe whether or not the polyurethane as a screening material was reflected. The color of polyurethane is white, and if the core is exposed in the first yarn, a grayish color is observed in the fabric. As a result of observation, when a grayish color was observed in the fabric, it was indicated as ○, and when it was not observed, it was expressed as ×.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 1st Yarn type C
composite fiber
(chosa) Fineness (de') / number of strands 600/288 75/36 150/72 600/288 675/360 600/288 Core section area ratio (%) 60% 60% 60% 60% 60% 60% Intensity (g/de') 3.79 3.87 3.91 3.79 3.69 3.79 Confidence (%) 27.00 28.22 28.89 27.00 25.89 27.00 elastic fiber
(judge) Fineness (de') / number of strands 70/1 40/1 70/1 40/1 40/1 70/1 Intensity (g/de') 108.6 70.2 108.6 70.2 70.2 108.6 Confidence (%) 602 510 602 510 510 602 TP1 (g/de') 5.08 3.79 5.08 3.79 3.79 5.08 TP2 (g/de') 10.82 8.95 10.82 8.95 8.95 10.82 Judging: Super yarn weight ratio 100:857 100:188 100:214 100:
1500 100:
1688 100:857 Number of twists in the first yarn (T/M) 550 550 550 550 550 450 2nd yarn Type/fineness (number) Cotton / 17 Cotton / 17 cotton / 17 Cotton / 17 Cotton / 17 Cotton / 17 Fabric before weight loss weft Type/density (pattern/inch) 1st Yarn/50 1st Yarn/50 1st Yarn/50 1st Yarn/50 1st Yarn/50 1st Yarn/50 slope Type/density (pattern/inch) 2nd Yarn/80 2nd Yarn/80 2nd Yarn/80 2nd Yarn/80 2nd Yarn/80 2nd Yarn/80 Basis weight (g/㎡) 361 194.34 224.67 351.9 375.2 354 Thickness (mm) 0.56 0.23 0.32 0.53 0.57 0.58 Core weight per 1000m of fabric (kg) 111.2 13.63 27.27 109.07 123.0 105.31 weight loss conditions Alkali solution concentration (%) 3.1 0.4 0.8 3.0 3.4 2.9 Reduced rotational speed (mpm) 240 240 240 240 240 240 Loss time (minutes) 40 40 40 40 40 40 Fabric after weight loss 1st Yarn Review: First Yarn Weight Ratio 100:
348.9 100:
75.7 100:
86.6 100:
608.2 100:
698.4 100:
347.5 Basis weight (g/㎡) 254 181 198 246 260.3 251.95 Thickness (mm) 0.55 0.22 0.31 0.51 0.56 0.56 Weight loss rate (%) 29.6 6.4 11.0 30.1 30.6 28.8 Hollow collapse rate (%) 3.4 2.8 2.8 2.1 6.9 2.8 Residual rate of core part (%) 3.78 2.1 2.2 3.0 7.6 3.1 color quality × ○ × × × ○ staining uniformity 0 0 0 0 3 0

Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 10 Example 11 1st Yarn type C
composite fiber
(chosa) Fineness (de') / number of strands 600/288 600/288 600/288 600/288 600/288 Core section area ratio (%) 60% 60% 60% 60% 60% Intensity (g/de') 3.79 3.79 3.79 3.79 3.79 Confidence (%) 27.00 27.00 27.00 27.00 27.00 elastic fiber
(judge) Fineness (de') / number of strands 70/1 70/1 70/1 70/1 70/1 Intensity (g/de') 108.6 108.6 108.6 108.6 108.6 Confidence (%) 602 602 602 602 602 TP1 (g/de') 5.08 5.08 5.08 5.08 5.08 TP2 (g/de') 10.82 10.82 10.82 10.82 10.82 Judging: Super yarn weight ratio 100:857 100:857 100:857 100:857 100:857 Number of twists in the first yarn (T/M) 650 550 550 550 550 2nd yarn Type/fineness (number) Cotton / 17 Cotton / 17 Cotton / 17 Cotton / 17 Cotton / 17 Fabric before weight loss weft Type/density (pattern/inch) 1st Yarn/50 1st Yarn/50 1st Yarn/50 1st Yarn/50 1st Yarn/50 slope Type/density (pattern/inch) 2nd Yarn/80 2nd Yarn/80 2nd Yarn/80 2nd Yarn/80 2nd Yarn/80 Basis weight (g/㎡) 365 361 361 361 361 Thickness (mm) 0.55 0.56 0.56 0.56 0.56 Core weight per 1000m of fabric (kg) 112.4 111.2 111.2 111.2 111.2 weight loss conditions Alkali solution concentration (%) 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 Reduced rotational speed (mpm) 240 180 260 280 320 Loss time (minutes) 40 40 40 40 40 Fabric after weight loss 1st Yarn Review: First Yarn Weight Ratio 100:
352.3 100:
378.9 100:342.2 100:341.9 100:338.8 Basis weight (g/㎡) 259.2 275 250 244 241 Thickness (mm) 0.53 0.55 0.54 0.54 0.54 Weight loss rate (%) 29.0 24.8 30.8 32.4 33.3 Hollow collapse rate (%) 4.6 2.9 3.5 4.9 6.5 Residual rate of core part (%) 5.9 22.7 0 0 0 color quality × × × × × staining uniformity 2 5 0 0 One

Example 12 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 1st Yarn type C
composite fiber
(chosa) Fineness (de') / number of strands 600/288 237/288 600/288 Core section area ratio (%) 60 60 60 Intensity (g/de') 3.79 3.87 3.79 Confidence (%) 27.00 12.53 27.00 elastic fiber
(judge) Fineness (de') / number of strands not included 70/1 70/1 Intensity (g/de') 108.6 108.6 Confidence (%) 602 602 TP1 (g/de') 5.08 5.08 TP2 (g/de') 10.82 10.82 PET (screening) Fineness (de') / number of strands 70/1 not included not included Judging: Super yarn weight ratio 100:857 100:339 100:857 Number of twists in the first yarn (T/M) 550 550 550 2nd yarn Type/fineness (number) cotton yarn
/17 Wed cotton yarn
/17 Wed cotton yarn
(ombre dye)
/17 Wed Fabric before weight loss weft Type/density (pattern/inch) 1st Yarn/50 1st Yarn/50 1st Yarn/50 slope Type/density (pattern/inch) 2nd Yarn/80 2nd Yarn/80 2nd Yarn/80 Basis weight (g/㎡) 342 255 363 Thickness (mm) 0.53 0.48 0.55 Core weight per 1000m of fabric (kg) 111.2 - 111.2 weight loss conditions Alkali solution concentration (%) 3.1 - 3.1 Reduced rotational speed (mpm) 240 - 240 Loss time (minutes) 40 - 40 Fabric after weight loss 1st Yarn Review: First Yarn Weight Ratio 100:369.7 70:238 100:348.9 Basis weight (g/㎡) 251.7 255 254 Thickness (mm) 0.51 0.48 0.55 Weight loss rate (%) 26.4 - 29.6 Hollow collapse rate (%) 2.78 13.9 3.4 Residual rate of core part (%) 18.8 - 3.82 color quality × × ○ (stain) staining uniformity 4 0 no judgment

Specifically, as can be seen in Tables 1 to 3 above,

Example 2, in which the weight ratio of the first yarn to the first yarn was out of the preferred range according to the present invention, and the weight of the first yarn was relatively larger than that of the first yarn, had excellent weight loss characteristics, excellent core retention, and excellent dyeing uniformity. , it can be confirmed that the color quality is deteriorated due to the exposure of the polyurethane fiber, which is the examination.

In addition, on the contrary, in the case of Example 5, in which the examination was relatively less than that of the first yarn, it was confirmed that the remaining rate of the core part was significantly increased and the staining uniformity was also reduced according to the decrease in weight. In addition, it can be confirmed that the hollow collapse rate also significantly increased, which is due to the shaking of the screening during the weight loss process. .

On the other hand, in the case of Example 6, in which the number of twists of the first yarn is less than the preferred range according to the present invention, it can be confirmed that the color quality is deteriorated due to the exposure of the screening, and in Example 7, when the number of twists of the first yarn exceeds the preferred range according to the present invention In the case of , it can be seen that as the exposure of the core portion of the C-type composite fiber becomes more difficult, the loss-reduction characteristic increases, resulting in an increase in the residual rate of the core portion and consequently a decrease in dyeing uniformity. In addition, it can be confirmed that the hollow collapse also increased due to excessive twisting of the first yarn.

On the other hand, in the case of Examples 8 to 11 in which the rotation speed was changed during weight loss, in the case of Example 11, which was excessively rotated out of the preferred range according to the present invention, it could be confirmed that the hollow collapse further increased, and the dyeing uniformity was also slightly lowered. This is expected to be due to alkalinity due to excessive weight loss. In addition, in the case of Example 8, in which the weight was reduced by too little rotation, it can be seen that the core part residual rate is significantly lowered and the dyeing uniformity is also very reduced.

In addition, in the case of Example 10, which exceeded a more preferable weight loss rate, it could be confirmed that the hollow collapse significantly increased compared to Example 9.

On the other hand, in the case of Example 12, as the screening was provided with general PET fibers rather than elastic fibers, the weight loss characteristic was greatly reduced, compared to Example 1, the core part retention rate was significantly increased, and the dyeing uniformity was also greatly reduced. You can check.

In addition, in the case of Comparative Example 1, as a fabric woven by providing hollow fibers rather than composite fibers to the first yarn from the beginning, the hollow collapse rate is remarkable compared to the examples, which is in the state of screening and mixed and mixed fibers in the state of hollow fibers. It is expected that it occurred during the weaving process. In addition, due to this, it can be expected that Comparative Example 1 has a very thin thickness of the woven fabric compared to Example 1, so the sense of volume is small and the heat retention is not good.

In addition, in the case of Comparative Example 2, the dyed cotton yarn was put into the second yarn and weaved, and then the fabric was subjected to an alkali reduction process, and then dyeing of the cotton yarn was omitted. As a denim fabric, the color quality was very poor, and the dyeing uniformity It was kind of hard to judge. It is expected that the original color of the cotton yarn is revealed due to the omission of the dye dyed in the cotton yarn according to the weight loss process, and accordingly, the stain caused by the color difference with the dyed first yarn. Through this, in order to manufacture a fabric with excellent volume and warmth, it is necessary to perform a weight loss process in the fabric state, and accordingly, in the case of cotton yarn, it is known that dyeing after weaving in a non-dyed state is very important in the color quality of the fabric. can

Although one embodiment of the present invention has been described above, the spirit of the present invention is not limited to the embodiments presented herein, and those skilled in the art who understand the spirit of the present invention may add elements within the scope of the same spirit. However, other embodiments can be easily proposed by means of changes, deletions, additions, etc., but these will also fall within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (15)

(1) A first yarn containing a fiber-forming component as a sheath portion, an alkali-soluble eluting component as a core portion, and a C-type composite fiber spun so that the core portion is exposed to the outside from one side of the sheath portion, and unyarned preparing a fabric by preparing second yarns each containing cotton yarn;
(2) In order to elute the core portion of the C-type composite fiber in the first yarn, a weight loss process is performed with an alkali solution whose concentration satisfies the concentration (%) ± 5% of the alkali solution according to Equation 1 below with respect to the fabric doing; and
(3) performing a first dyeing process for the first yarn and a second dyeing process for the second yarn among the fabrics; ultra-lightweight denim fabric manufacturing method comprising:
[Equation 1]

. According to claim 1,
The C-type composite fiber is an ultra-lightweight denim fabric manufacturing method comprising at least one of partially drawn yarn (POY), drawn yarn (SDY) and textured yarn. According to claim 1,
The C-type composite fiber is a texture yarn having a fineness of 50 to 1,000 denier and a number of strands of 18 to 720. Method for manufacturing ultra-lightweight denim fabric. According to claim 1,
The first yarn improves the dissolution of the core of the C-type composite fiber and further includes an elastic fiber as a yarn to minimize sheath deformation, and the C-type composite fiber is a mixed fiber yarn included as a sheath yarn surrounding the yarn Manufacturing method of ultra-lightweight denim fabric. According to claim 4,
The mixed yarn is a method for manufacturing ultra-lightweight denim fabric in which the second yarn surrounds the screening with 510 to 580 T / m. According to claim 4,
The method for manufacturing ultra-lightweight denim fabric in which the first yarn is provided in 200 to 1600 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the mixed yarn screening. According to claim 1,
The non-yarn-dyed cotton yarn is a method for manufacturing ultra-light denim fabric having a fineness of 5 to 20. According to claim 1,
In the step (1), the fabric is a fabric woven by using the first yarn as a weft yarn and the second yarn as a warp yarn. The method of claim 1, between the steps (1) and (2),
A method for manufacturing ultra-lightweight denim fabric by further performing a scouring reduction process, a wool process, a desizing process, and a mercerization process. According to claim 1,
The first dyeing process is performed using one or more disperse dyes selected from the group consisting of azo, anthraquinone, dinitrophenyl amine and quinoline,
The second dyeing process is a method for manufacturing ultra-lightweight denim fabric performed through one or more dyes selected from direct dyes, sulfur dyes, and reactive dyes. According to claim 1,
The C-type composite fiber is an ultra-lightweight denim fabric manufacturing method that satisfies the following conditions (a) to (d).
(a) 30 ≤ core section area ratio (%) ≤ 65
(b) 20° ≤ slit angle (θ) ≤ 30°
(c)

(d)

delete According to claim 1,
A method for manufacturing ultra-lightweight denim fabric in which the weight loss process of step (2) is performed at a concentration (%) ± 2% of the alkali solution according to Equation 1 with respect to the fabric including the C-type composite fiber. According to claim 1,
The step (2) is a method for manufacturing ultra-lightweight denim fabric by rotating the fabric in an alkaline solution at a rotational speed of 200 to 300 mpm to perform a weight loss process. According to claim 14,
The rotational speed is 200 ~ 270mpm ultra-lightweight denim fabric manufacturing method.

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