CN112386531A - 一种皂荚低聚糖面膜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
一种皂荚低聚糖面膜及其制备方法,面膜由皂荚低聚糖、皂荚皂素、羟丙基皂荚多糖、橄榄油、薄荷脑复配而成;其制备方法:分别称取皂荚低聚糖、皂素、羟丙基皂荚多糖,混匀;在搅拌状态下,缓慢加入到去离子水中;在60~80℃下,搅拌至完全溶解;冷却后,加入橄榄油、薄荷脑,再次搅拌均匀后,灌装即成。本产品为全天然植物来源,满足了消费者绿色无毒副作用的需求;由于皂荚低聚糖的生物活性、羟丙基皂荚多糖的保湿性、皂荚皂素的抗炎性、薄荷脑的促透性等等功能地叠加,极大地提高了产品的功能性,同时极大地增强了皮肤的吸收性。本发明以半乳甘露低聚糖为主要原料,改变了传统植物多糖类面膜的理论基础,尤其对于睡眠面膜的低聚糖配方理论。
Description
技术领域
本产品属于天然护肤产品技术领域,具体为一种皂荚低聚糖面膜及其制备方法。
背景技术
皮肤是一个完整的半通透膜,当然也不是绝对严密无缝不能通透的屏障,具有一定的渗透能力和吸收作用。皮肤的渗透和吸收主要是通过三种途径进行:角质层、毛囊皮脂腺以及汗管口。角质层是皮肤吸收的最重要的途径,仅有少数重金属及其化学物质通过其余两个途径进入皮肤。研究证实,只有少量大分子和不易透过的水溶性物质可以通过皮肤毛囊,进入皮肤深层真皮内再由真皮向四处扩散,也就是说,皮肤对大分子物质的吸收量很少。而现在大多数面膜产品主要由多糖类大分子物质构成,就会造成皮肤表面营养过剩。而皮肤表面化妆品营养成分过剩,是造成“皮肤氧化”的重要原因之一;同时,化妆品的营养成分不能被皮肤完全吸收,就会成为寄生细菌生长繁殖的温床,还会导致皮肤感染,由此可见透皮吸收在化妆品中的重要性。因此,多糖类大分子面膜,尤其对于免洗面膜(也称为睡眠面膜),长时间的停留于皮肤表面,不但面膜功能性较差,还可能给皮肤带来不利影响。
另外,在化妆品中一般都会添加化学防腐剂。但一些人使用含防腐剂及有害化学成分的护肤品,皮肤会即时变得敏感、泛红和瘙痒;当然大部分人的皮肤并不会产生即时敏感,可是在使用了一段时间后,化学成分慢慢累积、渗透,一样会对皮肤造成伤害。研究结果显示,即使是微量防腐剂,在日积月累使用下,会令皮肤细胞加速老化及变得脆弱,长期使用会累积形成慢性皮肤病。如果是过量或不恰当的防腐剂更会令表皮细胞发育不成熟,结构松散,以致表皮层变薄,易受外界刺激,防御力下降;会损伤细胞DNA,令皮肤渐渐失去弹性,容易产生松弛、细纹;而受防腐剂损害的皮肤细胞则会不断缺陷繁殖,令肤质越来越差。所以,随着现代生活水平的不断提高,“绿色”才是化妆品的发展方向。
以植物多糖为原料的面膜已很多。皂荚多糖(俗称皂角米)常用于保健食品及医疗食品等方面,在化妆品行业的研究和应用较少。通过检索,发现以下相关专利:1)201210319258.9公开了一种含皂荚米的面膜及其制备方法;201910622282.1公开了一种面膜加工系统及面膜加工方法及面膜;李晓娇著“桃胶、皂荚豆胶舒缓嫩肤面膜的研制”,这两个专利均直接用皂荚米进行复配。2)201810117401.3公开了一种植物美白嫩肤面膜粉及其制备方法,使用的是皂荚提取物;3)201811048192.8公开了一种含漆树提取物的抗氧化美白保湿面膜及制备方法,利用的是羟丙基皂荚改性多糖。通过技术对比,上述专利和文献报道与本发明在技术上不一样。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术的不足,提供一种皂荚低聚糖面膜及其制备方法。
本发明实现目的的技术方案:一种皂荚低聚糖面膜由皂荚低聚糖、皂荚皂素、羟丙基皂荚多糖、橄榄油、薄荷脑等复配而成。
制备方法:分别称取皂荚低聚糖、皂素、羟丙基皂荚多糖,混匀;在搅拌状态下,缓慢加入到去离子水中;在60~80℃下,搅拌至完全溶解;冷却后,加入橄榄油、薄荷脑,再次搅拌均匀后,灌装即成。
其中,面膜组分(按质量百分比计):皂荚低聚糖10.0~20.0%、皂荚皂素0.5~2.0%、羟丙基皂荚多糖0.05~0.3%、橄榄油0.2~2.0%、薄荷脑0.05~0.15%、其余成分为去离子水。
皂荚低聚糖是皂荚多糖经生物酶解、分离、纯化、脱盐、浓缩、干燥所得。
皂荚低聚糖平均分子量为1000~5000Da。
另外,对其组分概述如下:
1、皂荚低聚糖
半乳甘露低聚糖(Galacto-mannan-oligosaccharides,GMOS)是半乳甘露聚糖的不完全降解产物,是低聚糖家族的新成员。可通过瓜尔胶、田菁胶、皂荚胶、槐豆胶等豆科植物的种子胶降解获得的,在降解方式上,主要是利用β-甘露聚糖酶进行专一性水解。酶解后,半乳甘露聚糖胶的分子量降低,变得更易溶,可形成透明溶液,是国际医药食品界关注的低聚糖新品种。半乳甘露低聚糖具有丰富多样的生理功能及较高的生物活性,是原植物多糖胶不具有的。目前,国内制备半乳甘露低聚糖主要使用瓜尔胶进行降解,还未见利用皂荚多糖酶解制备的相关报道。
李欣航等在“几种低聚糖在化妆品中的应用研究”中报道,低聚糖可以有效保湿,并且低聚甘露糖的保湿能力相对较强。通过对三种低聚糖的祛痘功效进行评价,低聚甘露糖具有高达 70% 的祛痘有效率。进一步说明,低聚糖在化妆品中有着更强大地功效。
在本发明中皂荚低聚糖为主要功能性组分,相对皂荚多糖,皂荚低聚糖的可以极大地提高皮肤吸收,促进面膜功效。同时,甘露糖末端可以凝集有害微生物,抑制致病菌的侵染,起到抑菌作用。
2、羟丙基皂荚多糖
皂荚多糖是一种中性水溶性多糖,因具有增稠性、胶凝性、乳化稳定性、成膜性、保水持水性等而被广泛应用于很多领域。皂荚多糖还具有抗氧化、抗衰老、抗辐射等特性,又被广泛应用于化妆品行业。
羟丙基皂荚多糖是以皂荚多糖为原料、环氧丙烷为醚化试剂,通过碱化、醚化反应,使皂荚多糖链上的部分游离羟基醚化而得到的改性皂荚多糖产品。降低了皂荚多糖胶的水不溶物,增强了水溶性能,使其性能更加完善,更适合于化妆品中使用。
在本发明中,羟丙基皂荚多糖的作用:即可以少量通过皮肤毛囊,进入皮肤深层真皮,起到保湿作用,另外,由于粘度较高,可以作为增稠剂,调节面膜粘度。
3、皂荚皂素
皂荚(属 )中富含皂甙,皂甙俗称皂素,皂荚皂素是广泛存在于皂荚属的三萜皂甙。近年来发现,皂甙在医药上不但有抗炎、抗溃疡、抗变态的效果,而且具有抑制脂质过氧化反应的作用,同时还具有起泡沫、乳化、去污、抗炎等生化特性,还具有抗菌活性。
4、薄荷脑
薄荷脑系由薄荷的叶和茎中所提取,白色晶体,为薄荷和欧薄荷精油中的主要成分。薄荷脑能选择性地刺激人体皮肤或黏膜的冷觉感受器,产生冷觉反射和冷感,引起皮肤黏膜血管收缩(实际上皮肤保持正常)。外用可以消炎,止痛,止痒,促进血液循环,减轻浮肿等。近年来发现其具有显著促透作用。另外,具有杀菌和防腐作用。作为化妆品的特殊添加剂,在本产品中视不同人群的适应度进行适量添加。
5、橄榄油
橄榄油是从橄榄果中榨取出来的一种淡黄色透明液体,曾被称为“液体黄金”,富含维生素A、D、E、K、F,这些都是易于被皮肤吸收的脂溶性维生素。橄榄油有着非凡的美容功效,它能"润肤"、"去皱"、"防晒"、"护发",是老少皆宜的护肤佳品。最新研究表明:橄榄油中所含多酚类有抗氧化作用,它能有效地避免因脂肪被氧化而发生的细胞老化所带来的色斑、皱纹等现象。在本产品中根据不同人群的肤质差异进行适当添加。
本发明的优点是:1)从安全性上来说,产品为全天然植物来源,不含防腐剂、人工香精、色素等,满足了消费者绿色无毒副作用的需求;2)从功能性来说,由于皂荚低聚糖的生物活性、羟丙基皂荚多糖的保湿性、皂荚皂素的抗炎性、薄荷脑的促透性等等功能地叠加,极大地提高了产品的功能性,同时极大地增强了皮肤的吸收性。本发明以半乳甘露低聚糖为主要原料,改变了传统植物多糖类面膜的理论基础,尤其对于睡眠面膜的低聚糖配方理论。
具体实施方式
以下通过具体实施例详细说明本发明的实施过程和产生的有益效果,旨在帮助阅读者更好地理解本发明的实质和特点,不作为对本案可实施范围的限定。
实施例 1
分别称取皂荚低聚糖20.0kg(平均分子量3000~5000Da左右)、皂素2.0kg、羟丙基皂荚多糖0.05kg,混匀;在搅拌状态下,缓慢投入到80kg去离子水中,加热至65℃时,至完全溶解,冷却后加入1.0kg橄榄油、0.15kg薄荷脑,再次搅拌均匀后,灌装即成。
实施例2
分别称取皂荚低聚糖10.0kg(平均分子量1000~3000 Da左右)、皂素0.5kg、羟丙基皂荚多糖0.3kg,混匀;在搅拌状态下,缓慢投入到90kg去离子水中,加热至60℃时,至完全溶解,冷却后加入0.2kg橄榄油、0.10kg薄荷脑,再次搅拌均匀后,灌装即成。
实施例3
分别称取皂荚低聚糖15.0kg(平均分子量3000 Da左右)、皂素1.0kg、羟丙基皂荚多糖0.15kg,混匀;在搅拌状态下,缓慢投入到100kg去离子水中,加热至75℃时,至完全溶解,冷却后加入2.0kg橄榄油、0.05kg薄荷脑,再次搅拌均匀后,灌装即成。
实施例4
分别称取皂荚低聚糖18.0kg(平均分子量3000 Da左右)、皂素1.5kg、羟丙基皂荚多糖0.2kg,混匀;在搅拌状态下,缓慢投入到100kg去离子水中,加热至80℃时,至完全溶解,冷却后加入0.8kg橄榄油、0.08kg薄荷脑,再次搅拌均匀后,灌装即成。
Claims (5)
1.一种皂荚低聚糖面膜及其制备方法,其特征在于,面膜由皂荚低聚糖、皂荚皂素、羟丙基皂荚多糖、橄榄油、薄荷脑复配而成。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种皂荚低聚糖面膜及其制备方法,其特征在于,所述制备方法为:分别称取皂荚低聚糖、皂素、羟丙基皂荚多糖,混匀;在搅拌状态下,缓慢加入到去离子水中;在60~80℃下,搅拌至完全溶解;冷却后,加入橄榄油、薄荷脑,再次搅拌均匀后,灌装即成。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种皂荚低聚糖面膜及其制备方法,其特征在于,所述面膜组分(按质量百分比计):皂荚低聚糖10.0~20.0%、皂荚皂素0.5~2.0%、羟丙基皂荚多糖0.05~0.3%、橄榄油0.2~2.0%、薄荷脑0.05~0.15%、其余成分为去离子水。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种皂荚低聚糖面膜及其制备方法,其特征在于,所述皂荚低聚糖是皂荚多糖经生物酶解、分离、纯化、脱盐、浓缩、干燥所得。
5.根据权利要求3所述的皂荚低聚糖,其特征在于,所述皂荚低聚糖平均分子量为1000~5000Da。
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