CN112251918B - 一种蚕丝面膜基布及其制备方法和蚕丝面膜 - Google Patents
一种蚕丝面膜基布及其制备方法和蚕丝面膜 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN112251918B CN112251918B CN202011086127.1A CN202011086127A CN112251918B CN 112251918 B CN112251918 B CN 112251918B CN 202011086127 A CN202011086127 A CN 202011086127A CN 112251918 B CN112251918 B CN 112251918B
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- Prior art keywords
- silk
- peach gum
- base cloth
- mask base
- water
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Images
Classifications
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种蚕丝面膜基布的制备方法，包括如下步骤：S1、将桑蚕丝脱胶后置于溴化锂或氯化钙水溶液中浸渍20‑30min，经水洗、干燥得到预处理桑蚕丝；S2、将桃胶多糖溶于水中，调节pH至9‑10，加入阳离子聚合物，进行络合反应，调节pH至6‑7，得到凝胶液，备用；S3、将步骤S1得到的预处理桑蚕丝置于在步骤S2得到的凝胶液中，在温度为30‑50℃下浸渍，得到改性蚕丝；S4、将改性蚕丝通过水刺加固得到蚕丝面膜基布；本发明还提出了一种蚕丝面膜基布和蚕丝面膜。本发明采用桃胶多糖与阳离子聚合物反应得到的凝胶液，实现对蚕丝纤维进行改性，大大提高了蚕丝面膜的保水性能和力学强度，提高对面膜中精华液的利用率。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域，尤其涉及一种蚕丝面膜基布及其制备方法和蚕丝面膜。
背景技术
随着现代国民生活水平的不断提高，越来越多的人注重外显肌肤的保养，其中追求面部美观在护肤界是个永恒话题。在进行面膜配方研发和设计时，不仅仅需要考虑面膜中精华液中的活性组分的功效，面膜基布的性能和质量也是影响面膜整体效果的重要因素。
其中，蚕丝纤维由许多纳米纤维排列而成，透气性和吸附性均很好，由于丝胶蛋白链上亲水侧基的存在使得蚕丝具有天然的保湿功效，且蚕丝对光的折射和反射性能非常好，由蚕丝纤维制得的蚕丝面膜近年来深受消费者的喜爱。但是目前的市场上，除了高端市场，超过百分之九十的消费者接触到的蚕丝面膜都是一个虚假、打擦边球的概念。经过调查，目前市场上所谓的“蚕丝面膜”有三种：一种是面膜基布采用蚕丝和其他材质混合制成；第二种是在面膜精华液中添加蚕丝蛋白成分，面膜本身并非蚕丝材料；第三种是采用仿制蚕丝纤维网结构生产的面膜基布，一般为铜氨纤维，完全非蚕丝材料。为什么真正的蚕丝无法生产出优质的面膜基布呢？其最主要的原因是蚕丝本身保水性不佳，制成基布之后无法保留精华液，更无法与皮肤贴合，且真正的蚕丝面膜基布的拉伸性能也不佳，改善蚕丝面膜的保水性是现有面膜行业继续也是加快蚕丝在美容行业的应用过程中急需解决的问题之一。
发明内容
基于背景技术所述，本发明提供了一种蚕丝面膜基布的制备方法，采用桃胶多糖与阳离子聚合物反应得到的凝胶液，实现对蚕丝纤维进行改性，大大提高了蚕丝面膜的保水性能和力学强度，提高对面膜中精华液的带液率和利用率。
本发明中提出的一种蚕丝面膜基布的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
S1、将桑蚕丝脱胶后置于溴化锂或氯化钙水溶液中浸渍20-30min，经水洗、干燥得到预处理桑蚕丝；
S2、将桃胶多糖溶于水中，调节pH至9-10，加入阳离子聚合物，进行络合反应，调节pH至6-7，得到凝胶液，备用；
S3、将步骤S1得到的预处理桑蚕丝置于步骤S2得到的凝胶液中，在温度为30-50℃下浸渍，得到改性蚕丝；
S4、将改性蚕丝通过水刺加固得到蚕丝面膜基布。
优选地，步骤S1中，溴化锂或氯化钙水溶液的浓度为15-20wt％。
优选地，步骤S2中，桃胶多糖与阳离子聚合物的重量比为1：0.3-0.5。
桃胶具有很好的吸湿性，其主要的活性组分为桃胶多糖，桃胶多糖对DPPH自由基具有很好的清除效果，同时具备一定的抗氧化能力。
优选地，步骤S2中，桃胶多糖与水的重量比为1-3：10。
优选地，步骤S2中，阳离子聚合物为含有季铵基团的阳离子聚合物；优选地，阳离子聚合物为阳离子瓜尔胶、阳离子纤维素、甲基丙烯酰丙基三甲基氯化铵、二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵、十六烷基三甲基溴化铵中的一种或两种以上混合物。
优选地，步骤S2中，桃胶多糖的制备过程包括：将新鲜桃胶去杂、漂洗，经冷冻干燥、粉碎得到桃胶粉末；将桃胶粉末加入pH为9-10的碱水，加热至80-90℃，提取3-4h，即得。
优选地，桃胶多糖的制备过程中，桃胶粉末与碱水料液比g：mL为1：80-100。
优选地，步骤S3中，浸渍时间为2-3h。
优选地，步骤S4中，水刺加固过程中水针能量为3-5Mpa。
本发明还提出了一种蚕丝面膜基布，采用所述蚕丝面膜基布的制备方法制得。
本发明还公开了一种蚕丝面膜，包括所述蚕丝面膜基布。
优选地，还包括精华液。
本发明中，所述的精华液可以选自现有技术中的精华液；
优选地，精华液按重量百分数计，由如下组分组成：植物提取物0.5-0.8％、紧致提拉组分3-10％、烟酰胺0.3-0.5％、丁二醇1-2％、对羟基苯乙酮0.3-0.5％、1,3-丙二醇0.1-0.3％、乳糖酸0.01-0.02％、羧甲基β-葡聚糖钠0.03-0.06％、辛酰羟肟酸0.2-0.3％、甘油辛酸酯0.1-0.25％、氢化蓖麻油0.001-0.003％、香精0.001-0.002％，余量为水；
其中，紧致提拉组分由桃树脂提取物、太匮龙舌兰叶提取物、二裂酵母发酵产物溶胞物、芽孢杆菌发酵产物、棕榈酰三肽-5、二肽二氨基丁酰苄基酰胺二乙酸盐、十四烷基氨基丁酰缬氨酰胺基丁酸脲三氟乙酸盐、精氨酸多肽/赖氨酸多肽、富勒烯、高山火绒草提取物和雪莲花提取物组成。
其中，植物提取物可以选择紫花地丁提取物、母菊花提取物、欧锦葵花提取物、芍药根提取物、忍冬花提取物、欧蒲公英根茎/根提取物、牡丹根皮提取物、虞美人花提取物、密罗木叶/茎提取物中一种或两种以上混合物。
本发明中，采用桃胶多糖对蚕丝纤维进行改性处理，利用桃胶多糖中含有的活性基团与蚕丝纤维反应，在蚕丝纤维中引入多糖分子大大提高了蚕丝纤维的吸湿性和保水性能；同时，将桃胶多糖与阳离子聚合物进行络合反应，使桃胶多糖带正电，采取这样的方式对蚕丝纤维进行改性时，在引入多糖组分的同时，使得蚕丝纤维转变为带电阳离子体，破坏了蚕丝纤维原有结构中的-OH之间的氢键结构，使纤维分子间作用力减弱，发生溶胀，纤维晶体趋于规整，且结晶度增大，提高了蚕丝纤维的拉伸强度；同时由于溶胀作用促进了桃胶多糖与蚕丝纤维之间反应，增加了两者间的结合强度，提高桃胶多对蚕丝面膜的改性效果。
实验中发现，为了保证改性效果，需要对桃胶多糖和阳离子聚合物配比进行合理的调节，控制凝胶液的浓度，从而在保证对蚕丝的浸渍改性效果，凝胶液浓度过小会降低桃胶多糖对蚕丝纤维的保水性改性效果，而凝胶液浓度过大则会影响蚕丝纤维在凝胶液中的溶胀规整行为，影响面膜的强度。
附图说明
图1为本发明实施例3-4与对照例3和4所得蚕丝面膜基布的带液率随时间变化曲线。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实例对本发明做出详细说明，应当了解，实施例只用于说明本发明，而不是用于对本发明进行限定，任何在本发明基础上所做的修改、等同替换等均在本发明的保护范围内。
实施例1
一种蚕丝面膜基布，其制备方法包括如下步骤：
S1、将桑蚕丝脱胶后置于浓度为15wt％的溴化锂水溶液中浸渍30min，经水洗，在50℃下干燥得到预处理桑蚕丝；
S2、按桃胶多糖与水的重量比为1：10将桃胶多糖溶于水中，调节pH至9，加入阳离子瓜尔胶，进行络合反应，调节pH至6，得到凝胶液，备用；其中，桃胶多糖与阳离子瓜尔胶的重量比为1：0.3；
S3、将步骤S1得到的预处理桑蚕丝置于步骤S2得到的凝胶液中，在温度为30℃下浸渍3h，得到改性蚕丝；
S4、将改性蚕丝通过水刺加固，水针能量为3Mpa，得到蚕丝面膜基布；
桃胶多糖的制备过程包括：将新鲜桃胶去杂、漂洗，经冷冻干燥、粉碎得到桃胶粉末；向桃胶粉末中加入pH为9的碱水，加热至80℃，提取4h，即得，其中，桃胶粉末与碱水料液比g：mL为1：80。
实施例2
一种蚕丝面膜基布，其制备方法包括如下步骤：
S1、将桑蚕丝脱胶后置于浓度为20wt％的溴化锂水溶液中浸渍20min，经水洗，在50℃下干燥得到预处理桑蚕丝；
S2、按桃胶多糖与水的重量比为3：10将桃胶多糖溶于水中，调节pH至10，加入阳离子纤维素，进行络合反应，调节pH至6，得到凝胶液，备用；其中，桃胶多糖与阳离子纤维素的重量比为1：0.5；
S3、将步骤S1得到的预处理桑蚕丝置于步骤S2得到的凝胶液中，在温度为50℃下浸渍2h，得到改性蚕丝；
S4、将改性蚕丝通过水刺加固，水针能量为5Mpa，得到蚕丝面膜基布；
桃胶多糖的制备过程包括：将新鲜桃胶去杂、漂洗，经冷冻干燥、粉碎得到桃胶粉末；向桃胶粉末中加入pH为9的碱水，加热至90℃，提取3h，即得，其中，桃胶粉末与碱水料液比g：mL为1：100。
实施例3
一种蚕丝面膜基布，其制备方法包括如下步骤：
S1、将桑蚕丝脱胶后置于浓度为18wt％的氯化钙水溶液中浸渍25min，经水洗，在50℃下干燥得到预处理桑蚕丝；
S2、按桃胶多糖与水的重量比为2：10将桃胶多糖溶于水中，调节pH至10，加入甲基丙烯酰丙基三甲基氯化铵，进行络合反应，调节pH至6，得到凝胶液，备用；其中，桃胶多糖与甲基丙烯酰丙基三甲基氯化铵的重量比为1：0.4；
S3、将步骤S1得到的预处理桑蚕丝置于步骤S2得到的凝胶液中，在温度为40℃下浸渍2.5h，得到改性蚕丝；
S4、将改性蚕丝通过水刺加固，水针能量为4Mpa，得到蚕丝面膜基布；
桃胶多糖的制备过程包括：将新鲜桃胶去杂、漂洗，经冷冻干燥、粉碎得到桃胶粉末；向桃胶粉末中加入pH为9的碱水，加热至85℃，提取3.5h，即得，其中，桃胶粉末与碱水料液比g：mL为1：90。
实施例4
一种蚕丝面膜基布，其制备方法包括如下步骤：
S1、将桑蚕丝脱胶后置于浓度为18wt％的氯化钙水溶液中浸渍25min，经水洗，在50℃下干燥得到预处理桑蚕丝；
S2、按桃胶多糖与水的重量比为2：10将桃胶多糖溶于水中，调节pH至10，加入十六烷基三甲基溴化铵，进行络合反应，调节pH至6，得到凝胶液，备用；其中，桃胶多糖与甲基丙烯酰丙基三甲基氯化铵的重量比为1：0.4；
S3、将步骤S1得到的预处理桑蚕丝置于步骤S2得到的凝胶液中，在温度为40℃下浸渍2.5h，得到改性蚕丝；
S4、将改性蚕丝通过水刺加固，水针能量为4Mpa，得到蚕丝面膜基布；
桃胶多糖的制备过程包括：将新鲜桃胶去杂、漂洗，经冷冻干燥、粉碎得到桃胶粉末；向桃胶粉末中加入pH为9的碱水，加热至85℃，提取3.5h，即得，其中，桃胶粉末与碱水料液比g：mL为1：90。
实施例5
一种蚕丝面膜，包括精华液和面膜纸，所述面膜纸由蚕丝面膜基布制得；
蚕丝面膜基布的制备方法包括如下步骤：
S1、将桑蚕丝脱胶后置于浓度为18wt％的氯化钙水溶液中浸渍25min，经水洗，在50℃下干燥得到预处理桑蚕丝；
S2、按桃胶多糖与水的重量比为2：10将桃胶多糖溶于水中，调节pH至10，加入甲基丙烯酰丙基三甲基氯化铵，进行络合反应，调节pH至6，得到凝胶液，备用；其中，桃胶多糖与甲基丙烯酰丙基三甲基氯化铵的重量比为1：0.4；
S3、将步骤S1得到的预处理桑蚕丝置于步骤S2得到的凝胶液中，在温度为40℃下浸渍2.5h，得到改性蚕丝；
S4、将改性蚕丝通过水刺加固，水针能量为4Mpa，得到蚕丝面膜基布；
桃胶多糖的制备过程包括：将新鲜桃胶去杂、漂洗，经冷冻干燥、粉碎得到桃胶粉末；向桃胶粉末中加入pH为9的碱水，加热至85℃，提取3.5h，即得，其中，桃胶粉末与碱水料液比g：mL为1：90；
精华液按重量百分比由如下组分组成：紫花地丁提取物0.3％、母菊花提取物0.3％、紧致提拉组分8％、烟酰胺0.4％、丁二醇1-2％、对羟基苯乙酮0.4％、1,3-丙二醇0.2％、乳糖酸0.015％、羧甲基β-葡聚糖钠0.05％、辛酰羟肟酸0.25％、甘油辛酸酯0.2％、氢化蓖麻油0.002、香精0.0015％，余量为水；
紧致提拉组分由桃树脂提取物、太匮龙舌兰叶提取物、二裂酵母发酵产物溶胞物、芽孢杆菌发酵产物、棕榈酰三肽-5、二肽二氨基丁酰苄基酰胺二乙酸盐、十四烷基氨基丁酰缬氨酰胺基丁酸脲三氟乙酸盐、精氨酸多肽/赖氨酸多肽、富勒烯、高山火绒草提取物和雪莲花提取物按照按重量比为40：15：10：10：1：2：2：3：12：1：2组成。
对照例1
一种蚕丝面膜基布，其制备方法包括如下步骤：
S1、将桑蚕丝脱胶后置于浓度为18wt％的氯化钙水溶液中浸渍25min，经水洗，在50℃下干燥得到预处理桑蚕丝；
S2、按桃胶多糖与水的重量比为2：10将桃胶多糖溶于水中，调节pH至10，加入甲基丙烯酰丙基三甲基氯化铵，进行络合反应，调节pH至6，得到凝胶液，备用；其中，桃胶多糖与甲基丙烯酰丙基三甲基氯化铵的重量比为1：0.1；
S3、将步骤S1得到的预处理桑蚕丝置于步骤S2得到的凝胶液中，在温度为40℃下浸渍2.5h，得到改性蚕丝；
S4、将改性蚕丝通过水刺加固，水针能量为4Mpa，得到蚕丝面膜基布；
桃胶多糖的制备过程包括：将新鲜桃胶去杂、漂洗，经冷冻干燥、粉碎得到桃胶粉末；向桃胶粉末中加入pH为9的碱水，加热至85℃，提取3.5h，即得，其中，桃胶粉末与碱水料液比g：mL为1：90。
对照例2
一种蚕丝面膜基布，其制备方法包括如下步骤：
S1、将桑蚕丝脱胶后置于浓度为18wt％的氯化钙水溶液中浸渍25min，经水洗，在50℃下干燥得到预处理桑蚕丝；
S2、按桃胶多糖与水的重量比为2：10将桃胶多糖溶于水中，调节pH至10，加入甲基丙烯酰丙基三甲基氯化铵，进行络合反应，调节pH至6，得到凝胶液，备用；其中，桃胶多糖与甲基丙烯酰丙基三甲基氯化铵的重量比为1：0.6；
S3、将步骤S1得到的预处理桑蚕丝置于在步骤S2得到的凝胶液中，在温度为40℃下浸渍2.5h，得到改性蚕丝；
S4、将改性蚕丝通过水刺加固，水针能量为4Mpa，得到蚕丝面膜基布；
桃胶多糖的制备过程包括：将新鲜桃胶去杂、漂洗，经冷冻干燥、粉碎得到桃胶粉末；向桃胶粉末中加入pH为9的碱水，加热至85℃，提取3.5h，即得，其中，桃胶粉末与碱水料液比g：mL为1：90。
对照例3
一种蚕丝面膜基布，其制备方法包括如下步骤：
S1、将桑蚕丝脱胶后置于浓度为18wt％的氯化钙水溶液中浸渍25min，经水洗，在50℃下干燥得到预处理桑蚕丝；
S2、按桃胶多糖与水的重量比为2：10将桃胶多糖溶于水中，调节pH至6，得到改性液，备用；
S3、将步骤S1得到的预处理桑蚕丝置于在步骤S2得到的改性液中，在温度为40℃下浸渍2.5h，得到改性蚕丝；
S4、将改性蚕丝通过水刺加固，水针能量为4Mpa，得到蚕丝面膜基布；
桃胶多糖的制备过程包括：将新鲜桃胶去杂、漂洗，经冷冻干燥、粉碎得到桃胶粉末；向桃胶粉末中加入pH为9的碱水，加热至85℃，提取3.5h，即得，其中，桃胶粉末与碱水料液比g：mL为1：90。
对照例4
一种蚕丝面膜基布，其制备方法包括如下步骤：
S1、将桑蚕丝脱胶后置于浓度为18wt％的氯化钙水溶液中浸渍25min，经水洗，在50℃下干燥得到预处理桑蚕丝；
S2、将预处理桑蚕丝通过水刺加固，水针能量为4Mpa，得到蚕丝面膜基布。
参照标准GB/T24218.6-2010和标准GB/T24218.3-2010分别检测实施例1-4以及对照例1-4所得蚕丝面膜基布的带液率(LAC)和抗拉强度，结果如下：
| 样品 | 带液率LAC/％ | 抗拉强度/MPa |
| 实施例1 | 1350 | 2.8 |
| 实施例2 | 1410 | 2.6 |
| 实施例3 | 1460 | 2.9 |
| 实施例4 | 1390 | 2.8 |
| 对照例1 | 1120 | 2.6 |
| 对照例2 | 1380 | 2.3 |
| 对照例3 | 950 | 2.0 |
| 对照例4 | 720 | 1.9 |
从上述测试结果可知，采用桃胶多糖和阳离子聚合物对蚕丝纤维进行改性，所得面膜基布的带液率和力学强度都有明显的提升。
实施例3和4和对照例3-4所得蚕丝面膜基布的带液率随时间变化曲线如图1所示，从图中可以看出实施例3和实施例4所得蚕丝面膜基布的带液保持率分别为90.4％和89.2％，对照例3和4所得蚕丝面膜基布的带液保持率则仅有80.4％和76.5％，由此可见，蚕丝纤维经凝胶和阳离子聚合物改性后保水性能得到显著的改善。
带液保持率是指某一时刻(如5min时)的带液率与原始(0min)带液率的比值。
将实施例5所得蚕丝面膜进行DPPH清除率测试，同时将对照例3和4所得面膜基布浸渍在实施例5的精华液中得到蚕丝面膜并检测DPPH清除率，与实施例5所得蚕丝面膜进行比较，结果如下：
| 样品 | 实施例3 | 实施例4 | 对照例3 | 对照例4 |
| DPPH清除率/％ | 95.7 | 95.1 | 90.6 | 89.1 |
以上所述，仅为本发明较佳的具体实施方式，但本发明的保护范围并不局限于此，任何熟悉本技术领域的技术人员在本发明揭露的技术范围内，根据本发明的技术方案及其发明构思加以等同替换或改变，都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (10)
1.一种蚕丝面膜基布的制备方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
S1、将桑蚕丝脱胶后置于溴化锂或氯化钙水溶液中浸渍20-30min，经水洗、干燥得到预处理桑蚕丝；
S2、将桃胶多糖溶于水中，调节pH至9-10，加入阳离子聚合物，进行络合反应，调节pH至6-7，得到凝胶液，备用；
S3、将步骤S1得到的预处理桑蚕丝置于步骤S2得到的凝胶液中，在温度为30-50℃下浸渍，得到改性蚕丝；
S4、将改性蚕丝通过水刺加固得到蚕丝面膜基布；
步骤S2中，桃胶多糖与阳离子聚合物的重量比为1：0.3-0.5；
阳离子聚合物为含有季铵基团的阳离子聚合物,具体为阳离子瓜尔胶、阳离子纤维素中的一种或两种；
步骤S2中，桃胶多糖与水的重量比为1-3：10。
2.根据权利要求1所述的蚕丝面膜基布的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤S1中，溴化锂或氯化钙水溶液的浓度为15-20wt％。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的蚕丝面膜基布的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤S2中，桃胶多糖的制备过程包括：将新鲜桃胶去杂、漂洗，经冷冻干燥、粉碎得到桃胶粉末；将桃胶粉末加入pH 为9-10的碱水，加热至80-90℃，提取3-4h，即得；
桃胶粉末与碱水料液比g：mL为1：80-100。
4.根据权利要求3所述的蚕丝面膜基布的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤S3中，浸渍时间为2-3h。
5.根据权利要求1或2所述的蚕丝面膜基布的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤S4中，水刺加固过程中水针能量为3-5Mpa。
6.根据权利要求3所述的蚕丝面膜基布的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤S4中，水刺加固过程中水针能量为3-5Mpa。
7.一种蚕丝面膜基布，其特征在于，采用权利要求1-6中任一项所述蚕丝面膜基布的制备方法制得。
8.一种蚕丝面膜，其特征在于，包括权利要求7所述的蚕丝面膜基布。
9.根据权利要求8所述的蚕丝面膜，其特征在于，还包括精华液。
10.根据权利要求9所述的蚕丝面膜，其特征在于，精华液按重量百分数计，由如下组分组成：植物提取物0.5-0.8％、紧致提拉组分3-10％、烟酰胺0.3-0.5％、丁二醇1-2％、对羟基苯乙酮0.3-0.5％、1,3-丙二醇0.1-0.3％、乳糖酸0.01-0.02％、羧甲基β-葡聚糖钠0.03-0.06％、辛酰羟肟酸0.2-0.3％、甘油辛酸酯0.1-0.25％、氢化蓖麻油0.001-0.003％、香精0.001-0.002％，余量为水；
其中，紧致提拉组分由桃树脂提取物、太匮龙舌兰叶提取物、二裂酵母发酵产物溶胞物、芽孢杆菌发酵产物、棕榈酰三肽-5、二肽二氨基丁酰苄基酰胺二乙酸盐、十四烷基氨基丁酰缬氨酰胺基丁酸脲三氟乙酸盐、精氨酸多肽/赖氨酸多肽、富勒烯、高山火绒草提取物和雪莲花提取物组成。
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