CN112030310A

CN112030310A - Kesi gig pile fabric and weaving method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN112030310A
Application number: CN202010684860.7A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 黄紫娟; 郑天智; 何玉美
Original assignee: Suzhou Institute of Trade and Commerce
Current assignee: Suzhou Institute of Trade and Commerce
Priority date: 2020-07-16
Filing date: 2020-07-16
Publication date: 2020-12-04

Abstract

The invention provides a silk tapestry gigging fabric which comprises a fabric base layer woven by taking a silk tapestry plain weave as a ground weave and a preset pattern or design woven on the fabric base layer by using the gigging weave; the tapestry plain weave and the napping weave are woven in a mirror surface overturning mode, and the weaving method specifically comprises the following steps: warping; drafting; reeding: at the non-raising part, 2 ground warps penetrate into 1 reed dent; in the raising part, 2 ground warps and corresponding pile warps penetrate into 1 dent; tension control: the pile is controlled via a special tension controller; weaving: beating-up by a small plectrum; curling; cutting the velvet: and after the fabric is taken off, the pile rod needs to be drawn out or the pile needs to be cut to form a three-dimensional pile pattern, and the rest part can be woven according to a silk tapestry method to form a pattern and then subjected to pile trimming and forming.

Description

Kesi gig pile fabric and weaving method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to a design weaving method of a novel woven fabric, in particular to a silk tapestry gigging fabric and a weaving method thereof.

Background

The weaving technique of silk tapestry is a national-grade non-material culture heritage, is listed in the name of the Chinese traditional handicraft, is essence in the Chinese traditional silk artwork, and is a new saying that silk tapestry and gold are laid on one inch. The most important characteristic of silk tapestry is weaving process of 'stimulating the menstrual flow and breaking the weft', weft is inserted by a small shuttle, and the weft is shifted by a small plectrum.

In general, silk tapestry is mainly characterized in that: 1) the fabric is fine and exquisite, has rich colors, is not limited by colors used in silk process, can weave various decorative patterns by tapestry, can weave figures, landscapes, grass carps, feather beasts, famous people calligraphy, ideographic flower bird landscape and the like by tapestry, has clear light and shade of the figures, is suitable for thick and thin layers, and naturally fuses in change; 2) the tapestry is wide in application, can be cut into shapes and sizes according to design, can be woven in tapestry, can be made into small bags and bookmarks, can be made into large screens, can be hung on walls, can be made into long scroll painting shafts, can be changed in shapes such as robes, skirts, shoes, hats, table walls, chair covers, cushions and the like, and integrates artistry, decoration and practicability; 3) the patterns are as positive and negative as one, are flat and smooth, are better than double-sided embroidery, can be touched, rubbed, kneaded and pinched, and can be permanently stored; 4) the special technique of 'stimulating the menstrual flow and cutting weft' of silk tapestry is used for determining the irreversibility of the silk tapestry.

The existing silk tapestry fabric is planar in pattern, two-dimensional, and a three-dimensional silk tapestry fabric is difficult to realize by a conventional weaving technology. The feasibility that the pile fabric and the tapestry are fused has two points: firstly, the difference of the process technology is as follows: the main characteristic of the raising is formed by the raising tissue, the pattern effect is formed by the pile loop or the fluff of the warp; the silk tapestry presents patterns in a white warp and color weft mode; and secondly, the raising is a three-dimensional fabric, the silk tapestry is a planar two-dimensional fabric which is long and not mutually conflicted, so that the effect is very good when the silk tapestry is combined together, and the silk tapestry can be obtained only by expanding innovation and research tests.

Disclosure of Invention

The technical problem to be solved is as follows: the invention aims to provide a silk tapestry gigging fabric and a weaving method thereof, wherein the gigging fabric and the silk tapestry are combined to form a new fabric style.

The technical scheme is as follows: a silk tapestry gigging fabric comprises a fabric base layer woven by taking a silk tapestry plain weave as a ground weave and a preset pattern or design woven on the fabric base layer by using the gigging weave.

Preferably, the consolidation mode of the pile warp of the raised texture is W-shaped consolidation or V-shaped consolidation.

Preferably, the silk tapestry plain weave warp is raw silk, and the weft is boiled silk.

Preferably, the arrangement ratio of the weft yarns to the pile rods in the pile weave is 2: 1.

Preferably, the arrangement ratio of the ground warp to the pile warp is 2: 1.

A weaving method of a silk tapestry raising fabric is characterized in that a plain weave and a raising weave are woven in a mirror surface overturning mode, and the weaving method specifically comprises the following steps:

warping: the ground warp adopts raw silk warp, the pile warp adopts a boiled silk yarn, the ground warp and the pile warp are needed at the raised pattern part, only the ground warp exists at other parts, and the warp is arranged according to the process requirement;

drafting: the ground warp penetrates into the 1 st and 2 nd heddles, and the pile warp is transmitted into the corresponding heddles according to the upper drawing;

reeding: at the non-raising part, 2 ground warps penetrate into 1 reed dent; in the raising part, 2 ground warps and corresponding pile warps penetrate into 1 dent;

tension control: via warp beam control, the pile warp is controlled by a special tension controller;

weaving: weft insertion adopts a small shuttle, and 1 pile raising rod is placed at a pile raising part after the small shuttle is used for weft insertion; beating-up by a small plectrum;

curling: curling a front shaft;

cutting the velvet: and after the fabric is taken off, the pile rod needs to be drawn out or the pile needs to be cut to form a three-dimensional pile pattern, and the rest part can be woven according to a silk tapestry method to form a pattern and then subjected to pile trimming and forming.

Has the advantages that: the tapestry gigging fabric has the following advantages:

1. the silk tapestry plain weave and the pile weave are juxtaposed, the pile weave is a three-dimensional bulge, the silk tapestry plain weave is a two-dimensional plane, the silk tapestry can adopt different colors for color mixing, and the two-dimensional plane and the three-dimensional bulge are combined to form rich appearance effect;

2. in order to obtain weaving effect, mirror surface overturning is carried out in the weaving process of the fabric, and the raising part is matched with tapestry weaving.

Description of the drawings:

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a ground structure according to an embodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic structural diagram of a ground weave and pile warp matching weave according to an embodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic illustration of the organization of a "bat-fu" according to an embodiment of the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a diagram of a "bat-fu" product in accordance with an embodiment of the present invention.

Detailed Description

In order to make the aforementioned objects, features and advantages of the present invention comprehensible, embodiments accompanied with figures are described in detail below. It is to be noted that the drawings are in simplified form and are not to precise scale, which is provided for the purpose of facilitating and distinctly claiming the embodiments of the present invention.

As shown in fig. 1, the silk tapestry raising fabric comprises a fabric base layer woven by taking a silk tapestry plain weave as a ground weave and a preset pattern or design woven on the fabric base layer by using the raising weave.

Preferably, the consolidation mode of the pile warp of the pile texture is W-shaped consolidation or V-shaped consolidation, the pile texture is raised through a pile rod, the arrangement ratio of the weft to the pile rod is 2:1, the arrangement ratio of the ground warp to the pile warp is 2:1, and the surface of the pile texture is a three-dimensional pile loop or pile.

curling: curling a front shaft;

FIG. 2 is a schematic structural diagram of a ground weave and a pile warp matched weave, wherein the Arabic numerals in the ground weave represent the serial numbers of ground warps, the Roman numerals represent the serial numbers of pile warps, as can be seen from FIG. 2, 1 and 2 are ground warps with silk tapestry, I is the pile warp, the Roman numerals in the weft represent the serial number of a pile rod, and I is the pile rod; ■ denotes warp points, □ denotes weft points, a circle denotes a fastening point and is a warp point, and a triangle denotes a warp point formed by raising a pile warp when a pile rod is knitted in.

FIG. 3 is a schematic structural diagram of the stitch of "bat-fu", in which a silk tapestry plain weave is juxtaposed with a pile weave, wherein the warp Arabic numerals in the drawing indicate the serial numbers of ground warps, the Roman numerals indicate the serial numbers of pile warps, and the weft Roman numerals indicate the serial numbers of pile rods; ■ denotes warp points, □ denotes weft points, a circle denotes a fastening point and is a warp point, and a triangle denotes a warp point formed by raising a pile warp when a pile rod is knitted in.

It should be understood that the above examples are only for clarity of illustration and are not intended to limit the embodiments. Other variations and modifications will be apparent to persons skilled in the art in light of the above description. And are neither required nor exhaustive of all embodiments. And obvious variations or modifications therefrom are within the scope of the invention.

Claims

1. A silk tapestry gigging is characterized by comprising a fabric base layer woven by taking a silk tapestry plain weave as a ground weave and a preset pattern or design woven on the fabric base layer by using the gigging weave.

2. The silk tapestry pile fabric of claim 1, which is characterized in that: the consolidation mode of the pile warp of the raised texture is W-shaped consolidation or V-shaped consolidation.

3. The silk tapestry pile fabric of claim 1, which is characterized in that: the warp threads of the tapestry silk plain weave are raw silk, and the weft threads are boiled silk.

4. The silk tapestry pile fabric of claim 3, which is characterized in that: the arrangement ratio of the weft yarns to the pile rods in the pile weave is 2: 1.

5. The silk tapestry pile fabric of claim 1, which is characterized in that: the arrangement ratio of the ground warp to the pile warp is 2: 1.

6. A weaving method of tapestry gigging fabric is characterized in that: the tapestry plain weave and the napping weave are woven in a mirror surface overturning mode, and the weaving method specifically comprises the following steps:

curling: curling a front shaft;