CN111920740A - 一种377美白霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种377美白霜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN111920740A CN111920740A CN202010881000.2A CN202010881000A CN111920740A CN 111920740 A CN111920740 A CN 111920740A CN 202010881000 A CN202010881000 A CN 202010881000A CN 111920740 A CN111920740 A CN 111920740A
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- whitening
- cream
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- extract
- fermentation product
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Abstract
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域,具体涉及一种377美白霜及其制备方法。
背景技术
俗话说“一白遮百丑”,美白是一个经久不衰、永远流行的话题。明亮均 匀的肤色已成为人们关注的焦点,越来越多的人群渴望拥有健康白皙的肌肤。 而环境污染的增加和紫外线的负重,越来越多的色沉、色斑、敏感肌成了大 家的困扰。因此能研发出一种稳定、温和、有效的美白护肤品已成为必要。
377(苯乙基间苯二酚)具有优异的皮肤美白效果,是活性最高的酪氨酸 酶抑制剂之一。但具有一定的刺激性,并且它较难添加于化妆品膏霜配方中, 如若配方搭配不合理,后期容易变色、分层、味道大。
因此目前添加377的美白霜往往存在以下问题:刺激性大;配方不稳定, 高温、光照易变色、分层、气味大,原料失去活性;渗透性不好。这些问题 的出现导致添加377的美白霜效果不理想。发明一种温和、稳定、有效的377 美白霜具有重要意义。
本发明致力于运用合理的搭配和制备技术,改进现有377美白霜的缺点, 发挥其卓越的美白祛斑效果。
发明内容
有鉴于此,本发明所要解决的技术问题,就是提出一种377美白霜,此 外,本发明还提出了上述377美白霜的制备方法。
为解决上述技术问题,本发明采用以下技术方案予以实现:
一种377美白霜,包括如下重量百分含量的组分:
甘油:5-9%、Multilayer纳米微球体:3-8%、植物提取物:0.5-3%、美白发酵产物滤液:3-8%、水解贝壳硬蛋白:0.02-0.1%、美白剂:0.5-1%、 鲸蜡硬脂醇:2-3%、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷:0.3-2%、异棕榈酸乙基己酯:5-8%、 十三烷醇偏苯三酸酯:1-3%、生育酚:0.3-1%、泛醇:0.3-1%、甘草酸二钾: 0.2-1%、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6:0.1-1%、1,2已二醇:0.3-1%、对羟基苯 乙酮:0.3-1%、二氧化钛:0.5-2%、余量水。
上述377美白霜的优选组分含量为:
甘油:6%、Multilayer纳米微球体:3%、植物提取物:0.6%、 美白发酵产物滤液:4%、水解贝壳硬蛋白:0.02%、美白剂:0.5%、鲸蜡硬 脂醇:2.5%、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷:2%、异棕榈酸乙基己酯:6%、十三烷醇 偏苯三酸酯:2%、生育酚:0.5%、泛醇:0.5%、甘草酸二钾:0.3%、聚丙 烯酸酯交联聚合物-6:0.4%、1,2已二醇:0.5%、对羟基苯乙酮:0.5%、二 氧化钛:0.5%、余量水。
Multilayer纳米微球体为抗衰老纳米微球体,其是内外双层包 裹结构,两层中加入了不同的功效成分,可以防止成分的功效相互抵消掉。 本发明运用了纳米微球体,稳定、温和且效果增强;还选用VC的衍生物, 复配二氧化钛增加稳定性;搭配其它美白剂增强效果,复配植物提取物液降 低刺激性。
纳米微球体包裹了苯乙基间苯二酚、乳酸、棕榈酰三肽-5、牛油果树果 脂提取物等功效成分,解决了直接添加377、乳酸的温和性、稳定性、有效 性问题。亲脂性钠微米球释放压缩的功效成分,并完全地融化进皮肤中,最 小的微球体传递功效成分到达皮肤的最深层,解决了功效成分渗透性问题, 使377美白霜比市售更加有效。纳米微球体解决了377、乳酸直接和料体接 触导致产品变稀、分层等不稳定现象,同时避免了功效成分直接受热、光照 导致料体发黄、变红、气味大等现象,其具有的缓释作用解决了377和乳酸 的刺激性问题。摩擦外壳破裂时,亚微米球逐渐释放功效成分。乳酸促进肌 肤的新陈代谢,去除老化角质,增加其他成分的渗透性,同时也祛除已经到 达表层的黑色素。377是高效的亮白抗氧化剂,抑制酪氨酸酶的活性,减少 黑色素的产量,从源头减少黑色素和生成。棕榈酰三肽-5促进肌肤细胞生长, 抑制氧自由基和羟基自由基,刺激胶原蛋白生成。
作为优选地,所述植物提取物包括积雪草提取物、虎杖根提取物、黄芩 根提取物、茶叶提取物、光果甘草根提取物、母菊花提取物、迷迭香叶提取 物中的至少一种。
作为优选地,所述美白发酵产物滤液包括大麦籽发酵产物滤液、大米发 酵产物滤液和酵母菌发酵产物滤液,三者按4:3:2的比例添加。
作为优选地,所述美白剂包括天女木兰提取物、异抗坏血酸(异Vc)、 α-熊果苷和凝血酸,三者按4:2:1的比例添加。
本发明所述的VC377美白霜的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
(1)预先将甘油、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6混合搅拌均匀后待用;
(2)将水、泛醇、甘草酸二钾、1,2已二醇、对羟基苯乙酮、二氧化钛 加入主锅中,升温85-90℃保温搅拌30-35分钟,加入预先分散好的甘油、聚 丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6,均质3分钟,搅拌至完全溶解(搅拌速度15-25HZ);
(3)依次将生育酚(维生素E)、异棕榈酸乙基己酯、十三烷醇偏苯三 酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷加入油锅中,搅拌升温至80-85℃, 搅拌均匀至溶解完全,80-85℃保温搅拌3-5分钟(搅拌速度15-25HZ);
(4)开启真空,保持真空-0.03MPa,搅拌下抽入油锅中物料,高速均质 5-8分钟,搅拌均匀,真空状态下80-85℃保温搅拌30-35分钟后降温(搅拌 速度15-25HZ,均质速度:55-60HZ);
(6)降温,降至38℃以下时取样检验,合格后出料。
作为优选地,所述步骤(6)中得到的VC377美白霜pH为5-7、粘度 为65000-90000。
本发明的美白霜产品具有刺激性小、温和,稳定、受温度和光照影响小 等特点。
附图说明
图1为10%377美白霜鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜法测试的实际照片;
图2为本发明的377美白霜与市售美白霜相比于空白对照组的亮白肌肤 效果百分比的示意图;
图3为本发明的377美白霜与不含纳米微球体的美白霜相比于空白对照 组的亮白肌肤效果百分比的示意图;
图4为本发明的377美白霜与不含2种复配的美白原料的美白霜相比于 空白对照组的亮白肌肤效果百分比的示意图;
图5为本发明的377美白霜与不添加二氧化钛的美白霜的光照稳定性试 验结果照片;
图6为本发明的CalmYangTM对皮肤的刺激舒缓效果图。
具体实施方式
为让本领域的技术人员更加清晰直观的了解本发明,下面将结合附图, 对本发明作进一步的说明。
本发明的一种VC377美白霜,包括如下重量百分含量的组分:
甘油:5-9%、Multilayer纳米微球体:3-8%、植物提取物:0.5-3%、美白功发酵产物滤液:3-8%、水解贝壳硬蛋白:0.02-0.1%、美白剂:0.5-1%、 鲸蜡硬脂醇:2-3%、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷:0.3-2%、异棕榈酸乙基己酯:5-8%、 十三烷醇偏苯三酸酯:1-3%、生育酚(维生素E):0.3-1%、泛醇:0.3-1%、 甘草酸二钾:0.2-1%、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6:0.1-1%、1,2已二醇:0.3-1%、 对羟基苯乙酮:0.3-1%、二氧化钛:0.5-2%、余量水。
所述植物提取物包括积雪草提取物、虎杖根提取物、黄芩根提取物、茶 叶提取物、光果甘草根提取物、母菊花提取物、迷迭香叶提取物中至少一种。
所述具有美白功效的发酵产物滤液包括大麦籽发酵产物滤液、大米发酵 产物滤液和酵母菌发酵产物滤液,三者按4:3:2的比例添加。
所述美白剂包括天女木兰提取物、异抗坏血酸(异Vc)、α-熊果苷和凝 血酸,三者按4:2:1的比例添加。
本发明所述的377美白霜的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
(1)预先将甘油、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6混合搅拌均匀后待用;
(2)将泛醇、甘草酸二钾、1,2已二醇、对羟基苯乙酮、二氧化钛加入 主锅中,预留损耗水,升温85-90℃保温搅拌30-35分钟,加入预先分散好的 甘油、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6,均质3分钟,搅拌至完全溶解(搅拌速度 15-25HZ);
(3)依次将生育酚(维生素E)、异棕榈酸乙基己酯、十三烷醇偏苯三 酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷加入油锅中,搅拌升温至80-85℃, 搅拌均匀至溶解完全,80-85℃保温搅拌3-5分钟(搅拌速度15-25HZ);
(4)开启真空,保持真空-0.03MPa,搅拌下抽入油锅中物料,高速均质 5-8分钟,搅拌均匀,真空状态下80-85℃保温搅拌30-35分钟后降温(搅拌 速度15-25HZ,均质速度:55-60HZ);
(6)降温,降至38℃以下时取样检验,合格后出料。
理化指标:
PH:5-7(PH计型号:PHS-25上海仪电科学仪器股份有限公司);
粘度:65000-90000(旋转粘度计型号:NDJ-1上海上天精密仪器有限 公司;选用:4号转子,6号转速)。
温和性测试:
测试方法1:HET-CAM鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜模型
刺激性评价方法:
采用反应时间法进行的试验,应用式(1)计算刺激评分(IS),结果保 留小数点后两位:
式中:
sec H(出血时间hemorrhage time)-CAM膜上观察到开始发生出血的平 均时间,单位为秒(s);
sec L(血管融解时间vessel lysis time)-CAM膜上观察到开始发生血管 融解的平均时间,单位为秒(s);
sec C(凝血时间coagulation time)-CAM膜上观察到开始出现凝血的平 均时间,单位为秒(s)。
根据计算的IS数值按表1对受试物眼刺激性进行分类。
表1
刺激评分 | 刺激性分类 |
IS<1 | 无刺激性 |
1≤IS<5 | 轻刺激性 |
5≤IS<9 | 中度刺激性 |
IS≥10 | 强刺激性/腐蚀性 |
10%的377美白霜鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜法测试实际照片,如图1所示(编号 1,2,3对应分别做三次重复试验):
各组分具体用量:377美白霜重量百分含量的组分:
甘油:6%、Multilayer纳米微球体:3%、植物提取物:1%、 美白发酵产物滤液:3%、水解贝壳硬蛋白:0.02%、美白剂:0.5%、鲸蜡硬 脂醇:2.5%、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷:2%、异棕榈酸乙基己酯:6%、十三烷醇 偏苯三酸酯:2%、生育酚:0.5%、泛醇:0.5%、甘草酸二钾:0.3%、聚丙 烯酸酯交联聚合物-6:0.4%、1,2已二醇:0.5%、对羟基苯乙酮:0.5%、二 氧化钛:0.5%、余量水。
10%的377美白精华霜测试结果及记录如表2所示:
实验总结:377美白精华霜具有较低的刺激性,较好的温和性。
测试方法2:
受测对象:25-45岁女性
受测组人数:20人
测试方法:每晚使用一次377美白霜,白天涂抹防晒霜做好防护,连续 使用1周,记录有无刺激性。
测试结果:20人均未有刺激等不适感。因此可以认为377美白霜具有温 和性。
稳定性测试:
耐热试验:分别用样板瓶装2瓶30g 377美白霜,其中一瓶放入预先调 节好温度48℃±12℃的恒温培养箱中,经48h后取出,恢复室温后与另一瓶 377美白霜进行目测比较。第1周、2周、4周、8周、12周分别恢复室温进 行外观观察比较后结束试验。结果:两者外观无明显差异,说明产品耐热性 好。
耐寒试验:分别用样板瓶装2瓶30g377美白霜,其中一瓶放入预先调节 好温度-10℃~-15℃的冰箱中,经48h后取出,恢复室温后与另一瓶377美 白霜进行目测比较。第1周、2周、4周、8周、12周分别恢复室温进行外观 观察比较后结束试验。结果:两者外观无明显差异,说明产品耐寒性好。
耐寒耐热交替试验:分别用样板瓶装2瓶30g377美白霜,其中一瓶放入 预先调节好温度48℃±12℃的恒温培养箱中,经28h后取出,再放入预先调 节好温度-10℃~-15℃的冰箱中,经24h后取出,恢复室温后与另一瓶377 美白霜进行目测比较。这样称为一个冷热循环,如此反复。观察8个冷热循 环后结束试验。结果:无两者外观无明显差异。
常温观察:取一瓶已放置1年的377美白霜留样进行观察,无油水分层、 色泽变化、渗油等现象。
因此377美白霜的稳定性通过。
有效性测试:皮肤亮白效果评估测试
受测对象:25-45岁女性
受测组人数:30人
测试方法:30人分成三组,每组10人,一组作为空白对照组,涂抹基 础保湿霜;一组每晚使用一次市售的含377的美白霜,白天涂抹防晒霜做好 防护;另一组每晚使用一次本发明的377美白霜,白天涂抹防晒霜做好防护。 每周用Vehicle检测皮肤亮白度,8周后结束测试。
测试结果如图2所示:与空白对照组对比,市售的含377的美白霜具有 亮白肌肤的效果,本发明的377美白霜有更加明显的效果。
本发明添加的纳米微球体,其包括以下9种成分:乙基间苯二酚/乳酸/ 棕榈酰三肽-5/玉米淀粉/水解玉米淀粉/水解玉米淀粉辛烯基琥珀酸酯/牛油果 树果脂提取物/椰油酰胺丙基二甲胺/水合硅石。纳米微球商品名为: Multilayer。纳米微球体为内外双层包裹结构,两层中加入了不同的功效成 分,可以防止成分的功效相互抵消掉。纳米微球体包裹了377、乳酸等功效 成分,解决了直接添加377、乳酸的温和性、稳定性、有效性问题。亲脂性 钠微米球释放压缩的功效成分,并完全地融化进皮肤中,最小的微球体传递 功效成分到达皮肤的最深层,解决了功效成分渗透性问题,使377美白精华 霜比市售更加有效。Multilayer纳米微球体解决了377、乳酸直接 和料体接触导致产品变稀、分层等不稳定现象,同时避免了功效成分直接受 热、光照导致料体发黄、变红、气味大等现象,其具有的缓释作用解决了377 和乳酸的刺激性问题。摩擦外壳破裂时,亚微米球逐渐释放功效成分。乳酸 促进肌肤的新陈代谢,去除老化角质,增加其他成分的渗透性,同时也祛除 已经到达表层的黑色素。377是高效的亮白抗氧化剂,抑制酪氨酸酶的活性, 减少黑色素的产量,从源头减少黑色素和生成。棕榈酰三肽-5促进肌肤细胞 生长,抑制氧自由基和羟基自由基,刺激胶原蛋白生成。
温和性测试
受测对象:25-45岁女性
受测组人数:10人
测试结果:10人中有5个人认为有一点刺激,2个人比较明显的刺激感; 3个人认为没有不好的感觉。
结论:相比前面测试的377美白霜,无一人感觉到有不适或是刺激,可 见添加纳米微球增加了377美白霜的温和性。
有效性测试:皮肤亮白效果评估测试
受测对象:25-45岁女性
受测组人数:30人
测试方法:30人分成三组,每组10人,一组作为空白对照组,涂抹基 础保湿霜;一组每晚使用一次不含Multilayer纳米微球体,直接添 加同等含量的377/乳酸/棕榈酰三肽-5的美白霜,其余成分和377美白精华霜 一致,白天涂抹防晒霜做好防护;另一组每晚使用一次本发明的377美白霜, 白天涂抹防晒霜做好防护。每周用Vehicle检测皮肤亮白度,8周后结束测试。
本发明中,美白发酵产物滤液、美白剂等多种不同机理的美白原料复配, 使得377美白霜更加有效。从源头到肌肤表层,瓦解黑色素,消除色斑。
以下是377美白霜和未复配发酵产物滤液、美白剂2种美白原料的效果 对比:
有效性测试:皮肤亮白效果评估测试
受测对象:25-45岁女性
受测组人数:20人
测试方法:30人分成三组,每组10人,一组作为空白对照组,涂抹基 础保湿霜;一组每晚使用一次不含2种复配美白原料的美白精华霜,其余成 分和377美白精华霜一致,白天涂抹防晒霜做好防护;另一组每晚使用一次 377美白精华霜,白天涂抹防晒霜做好防护。每周用Vehicle检测皮肤亮白度, 8周后结束测试。
测试结果如图4所示,可知:复配了2种复配美白原料的377美白精华 霜更加有效。
有效性测试:3种美白原料协同增效测试
测试三种美白原料Multilayer纳米微球体、美白剂、美白发酵 产物滤液以及三种美白原料按1:1:1互配对B16F10细胞黑色素含量的影 响。黑色素是由黑色素细胞合成的高分子生物色素,分布于皮肤真皮层中, 决定了皮肤的颜色。减少黑色素的合成及累积,能够起到美白淡斑的作用。
测试方法及结果:样品分别配制成:3%纳米微球体、3%美白剂、3% 美白发酵产物滤液和互配样品(1%纳米微球体+1%美白剂+1%美白发酵产物 滤液),当加样浓度在30%时:
可知:3种美白原料都对黑色素生成有一定的抑制作用,在45%-46.5% 左右。3种美白原料互配,对黑色素生成有一定的抑制作用更强,达到56%, 且具有较高的细胞活性。证明纳米微球体、美白剂、发酵产物滤液、三种美 白原料具有协同增效的作用。
本发明添加二氧化钛。二氧化钛具有优秀的遮盖力,能够防止料体里的 有效成分因光照而变色。图5中左图为377美白霜,添加了二氧化钛,光照 30天,图5中中间图为377美白霜,添加了二氧化钛,不光照;图5中右图 为不添加二氧化钛的377美白霜,光照30天;根据实验结果可见:可见不添 加二氧化钛的377美白霜变色严重。而377美白霜几乎没有变色现象,因此 添加二氧化钛提高了377美白霜的稳定性。
本发明添加多种植物提取物:(积雪草提取物/虎杖根提取物/黄芩根提 取物/茶叶提取物/光果甘草根提取物/母菊花提取物/迷迭香叶提取物),商品 名:CalmYangTM。它具有舒缓刺激的作用,因此可以提高377美白霜的温和 性。
如图6和表3所示,为CalmYangTM对刺激的舒缓效果(SDS:为十二烷 基硫酸钠)。
实验证明:用CALMYANGTM处理后完全舒缓刺激,其具有舒缓刺激 的作用。
以上所述仅为本发明的较佳实施例而已,并不用以限制本发明,凡在本 发明的精神和原则之内,所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等,均应包含在 本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (7)
3.根据权利要求1所述的377美白霜,其特征在于,所述植物提取物包括积雪草提取物、虎杖根提取物、黄芩根提取物、茶叶提取物、光果甘草根提取物、母菊花提取物、迷迭香叶提取物中的至少一种。
4.根据权利要求1所述的377美白霜,其特征在于,所述美白发酵产物滤液包括大麦籽发酵产物滤液、大米发酵产物滤液和酵母菌发酵产物滤液,三者按4:3:2的比例添加。
5.根据权利要求1所述的377美白霜,其特征在于,所述美白剂包括天女木兰提取物、异抗坏血酸、α-熊果苷和凝血酸,三者按4:2:1的比例添加。
6.根据权利要求1-5任一项所述的377美白霜的制备方法,其特征在于,包括如下步骤:
(1)预先将甘油、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6混合搅拌均匀后待用;
(2)将泛醇、甘草酸二钾、1,2已二醇、对羟基苯乙酮、二氧化钛、水加入主锅中,升温85-90℃保温搅拌30-35分钟,加入预先分散好的甘油、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6,均质3分钟,搅拌至完全溶解;
(3)依次将生育酚、异棕榈酸乙基己酯、十三烷醇偏苯三酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷加入油锅中,搅拌升温至80-85℃,搅拌均匀至溶解完全,80-85℃保温搅拌3-5分钟;
(4)开启真空,保持真空-0.03MPa,搅拌下抽入油锅中物料,高速均质5-8分钟,搅拌均匀,真空状态下80-85℃保温搅拌30-35分钟后降温;
(6)降温,降至38℃以下时取样检验,合格后出料。
7.权利要求6所述的377美白霜的制备方法,其特征在于,所述步骤(6)中得到的377美白霜的pH为5-7、粘度为65000-90000。
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