CN111494224A - Whitening and spot-fading composition, skin care product and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Whitening and spot-fading composition, skin care product and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN111494224A CN111494224A CN202010549169.8A CN202010549169A CN111494224A CN 111494224 A CN111494224 A CN 111494224A CN 202010549169 A CN202010549169 A CN 202010549169A CN 111494224 A CN111494224 A CN 111494224A
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- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon dioxide Inorganic materials O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 201000000849 skin cancer Diseases 0.000 description 1
- AJPJDKMHJJGVTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium dihydrogen phosphate Chemical compound [Na+].OP(O)([O-])=O AJPJDKMHJJGVTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000003698 tetramethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
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- 230000002588 toxic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012588 trypsin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 description 1
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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Abstract
The invention discloses a whitening and spot-lightening composition, a skin care product and a preparation method thereof, wherein the whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition and the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition are specific, can effectively inhibit the generation of melanin and the activity of tyrosinase, have good free radical scavenging capacity, have obvious effect when being applied to the skin care product, have no side effect and have high safety.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of skin care products, in particular to a whitening and spot-fading composition, a skin care product and a preparation method thereof.
Background
With the development of society, the material requirements of people are met, and gradually, people also pay great attention to the pursuit of mental and cultural construction and personal images, which promotes the vigorous development of the cosmetic industry.
Along with the development of the cosmetic industry in China, new requirements are put on cosmetics under the market and national management requirements, and new domestic cosmetics with non-special purposes are put on record and formally implemented in 6-30 months in 2020. Particularly, it is noted that, in the "announcement on further clarifying the execution problems related to the registration of cosmetics" displayed on the official website of the national food and drug administration, it is also clearly stated that the whitening products will be classified as special-purpose cosmetics starting at 6 months of the next year, which means that nearly two whitening products in the market will be eliminated.
Hydroquinone, mercury and the like are used as common functional components of whitening spot-lightening cosmetics due to quick effect of whitening efficacy and low cost in the modern beauty community, but skin cancer is caused by repeated and serious spots caused by long-term use, and the hydroquinone, the mercury and the like are forbidden substances in the cosmetics specified in the cosmetic hygiene code (2007 edition). Therefore, it has been desired by beauty-conscious people to obtain a safe and effective whitening and spot-lightening ingredient.
The whitening and spot-lightening products on the current market mainly comprise three types of functional components: 1. the whitening agent for inhibiting melanin generation mainly comprises arbutin and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives, etc., and can inhibit melanin generation by inhibiting tyrosinase activity; 2. the whitening agent for blocking melanin transfer mainly comprises azelaic acid, nicotinamide and the like, and can reduce the transfer speed of melanosomes to keratinocytes and reduce the melanin content of each epidermal cell layer; 3. the exfoliating agent mainly comprises fruit acid, keratolytic enzyme and the like, and the substances accelerate the exfoliation of the stratum corneum and promote the metabolism of the epidermis by softening the stratum corneum so that melanosomes entering the epidermis are exfoliated along with the rapid renewal of the epidermis; the above whitening agents have problems that the effect is not remarkable although they are highly safe, the effect is easily repeated once the agent is not used, the agent is easily oxidized and denatured due to its nature, and a large amount of active ingredients is required if the agent is required to take effect quickly, but the skin is easily intolerant to the large amount.
Although natural botanical drugs are favored for their natural, harmless, and non-side effects, they also have problems of low absorption rate and slow onset of action.
With the development of polypeptide industry, the application of polypeptide is gradually developed from biological research and medical research to the application of daily used articles, such as cosmetic addition: for example, the current cosmetic polypeptides such as GHK (tripeptide-1) with intense fire have various action modes, and how to effectively match different cosmetic peptides to promote the efficacy of the cosmetic peptides is a hot spot of research in the field.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention mainly solves the technical problem of providing a whitening and spot-lightening composition and a skin care product, which can effectively inhibit melanin generation, whiten skin and remove spots.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts a technical scheme that:
the whitening and spot-fading composition comprises a whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition, wherein the whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: nonapeptide-10.05-0.5 part, hexapeptide-20.001-0.5 part, component a;
the component a is one or more selected from 5-20 parts of carnosine-10.05-0.5 part of tripeptide-10, 0.01-0.5 part of tripeptide-10 citrulline and 0. 80.05-0.5 part of acetyl hexapeptide.
Further, the whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: nonapeptide-10.05-0.2 parts, hexapeptide-20.05-0.02 parts, component a;
the component a is one or more selected from 5-15 parts of carnosine, 10.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide, 0.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10 citrulline and 80.1-0.2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide;
further, the component a is selected from one of the following (1) to (6):
(1) 5-15 parts of carnosine;
(2) 10.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10 and 0.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10 citrulline;
(3) 80.1-0.2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide;
(4) 5-15 parts of carnosine, 10.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10 and 0.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10 citrulline;
(5) 5-15 parts of carnosine and 80.1-0.2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide;
(6) 5-15 parts of carnosine, 10.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10, 0.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10 citrulline and 80.1-0.2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide;
furthermore, the whitening and spot-lightening composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: nonapeptide-10.1 parts, hexapeptide-20.1 parts, carnosine 10 parts, tripeptide-10 citrulline 0.1 part, tripeptide-10.2 parts, acetyl hexapeptide-80.2 parts
Further, the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition also comprises a whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition, and the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2-6 parts of dandelion extract, 2-6 parts of galangal extract and a component b;
the component b is selected from one or more of 2-6 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 2-6 parts of saxifrage extract, 0.05-0.15 part of purslane extract and 0.05-0.15 part of buckwheat extract;
further, the component b is selected from one of the following (7) to (10):
(7) 2-6 parts of rhodiola rosea extract;
(8) 2-6 parts of saxifrage extract;
(9) 2-6 parts of rhodiola rosea extract and 2-6 parts of saxifrage extract;
(10) 2-6 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 2-6 parts of saxifrage extract, 0.05-0.15 part of purslane extract and 0.05-0.15 part of buckwheat extract;
furthermore, the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 4 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 4 parts of saxifrage extract, 4 parts of dandelion extract, 4 parts of galangal extract, 0.1 part of purslane extract and 0.1 part of buckwheat extract.
Further, the whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition or the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition further comprises one or more of a solvent, an auxiliary preservative and a preservative.
Further, the solvent or the auxiliary preservative is selected from butanediol and/or pentanediol, and the preservative is phenoxyethanol;
furthermore, the whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition or the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition further comprises 10-30 parts of butanediol, 2-8 parts of pentanediol and 0.2-1.5 parts of phenoxyethanol, preferably 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol and 1 part of phenoxyethanol.
In a specific embodiment of the invention, the whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: nonapeptide-10.1 parts, hexapeptide-20.1 parts, carnosine 10 parts, tripeptide-10.2 parts, tripeptide-10 citrulline 0.1 part, acetyl hexapeptide-80.2 parts, butanediol 20 parts, pentanediol 5 parts, phenoxyethanol 1 part and water 63.35 parts.
In one embodiment of the invention, the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 4 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 4 parts of dandelion extract, 4 parts of galangal extract, 4 parts of saxifrage extract, 0.1 part of purslane extract, 0.1 part of buckwheat extract, 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol, 1 part of phenoxyethanol and 57.8 parts of water.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening and spot-lightening composition, which comprises the following steps: mixing the raw materials; if the raw materials contain Chinese medicinal extract, removing tannin from the Chinese medicinal extract, and mixing with the rest components;
further, the whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition or the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition is prepared respectively and then mixed.
The invention also provides a product for whitening and lightening spots, which comprises any whitening and lightening spot composition;
further, the content of the whitening and spot-lightening composition is 0.5-5%, preferably 1-3%;
the product is a skin care product or a skin external medicine.
Further, the product for whitening and lightening the spots comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-5 parts of any whitening and spot-fading composition, 1-5 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 1-5 parts of cyclomethicone, 1-5 parts of dimethicone, 01-3 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 1-2 parts of fatty monoglyceride, 0.5-2 parts of beeswax, 0.5-2 parts of stearic acid, 3-7 parts of glycerol, 5-15 parts of butanediol, 101-3 parts of polyglycerol-101, 0.1-0.3 part of carrageenan, 55-70 parts of water, 0.2-0.8 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.02-0.08 part of chlorophenyl glycoside ether;
further comprises the following steps: 1 part of any whitening spot-lightening polypeptide composition, 1 part of any whitening spot-lightening herbal composition, 3 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 3 parts of cyclomethicone, 2 parts of dimethicone, 1.5 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 1.5 parts of fatty monoglyceride, 1 part of beeswax, 1 part of stearic acid, 5 parts of glycerol, 7 parts of butanediol, 102 parts of polyglycerol-carrageenan, 0.2 part of carrageenan, 66.25 parts of water, 0.5 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.05 part of chlorophenyl glycoside ether.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening and spot-lightening product, which comprises the following steps:
(1) preparation of aqueous phase: mixing glycerol, butanediol, polyglycerol-10, carrageenan, water and chlorphenesin, heating to 80-90 ℃, and preserving heat for 10-60 min;
(2) preparation of oil phase: mixing isononyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, cetostearyl alcohol, fatty acid monoglyceride, beeswax and stearic acid, heating to 70-80 deg.C, and keeping the temperature for 5-30 min;
(3) emulsification: mixing the water phase and the oil phase, homogenizing, and cooling to below 45 deg.C to obtain semi-finished product;
(4) and adjusting the pH value of the semi-finished product to 5.5-6.5, and then mixing the whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition and/or the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition with the semi-finished product and phenoxyethanol.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
(1) according to the whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition, the specific polypeptides are combined, so that the generation of melanin can be effectively inhibited, experiments prove that the combination of the components has an obvious synergistic effect, the inhibition effect after combination is superior to that of the inhibition effect of the individual effect, the production of melanin can be prevented, the melanin synthesis pathway can be blocked, and the whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition is a bionic peptide with high safety coefficient, and has high efficiency and high skin-friendly property.
(2) The whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity and has good free radical scavenging capacity by combining specific plant extracts, tests prove that the combination of all the components has obvious synergistic effect, the combined inhibiting effect is better than the inhibiting effect of the single action, the existing pigmentation spots can be lightened from inhibiting the tyrosinase activity to resisting oxidation of melanin deposited on the surface layer, and the skin and the muscle bottom can be adjusted and strengthened.
(3) According to the whitening and spot-fading composition, after the whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition and the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition are combined, the whitening and spot-fading effects are further improved, the effect is superior to that of the whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition or the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition which is singly used, and the combination of the whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition and the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition has a certain synergistic effect.
(4) The whitening and spot-fading product is added with the whitening and spot-fading composition, after the whitening and spot-fading product is used by volunteers, the skin color is obviously improved, 40-50% of spots can be faded, the effect is obvious, no toxicity or side effect is caused, the property is stable, and the whitening and spot-fading product has a wide market prospect.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the present invention are described clearly and completely below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are some, not all embodiments of the present invention. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
In the specific embodiment of the invention, the rhodiola rosea extract, the galangal extract, the dandelion extract and the saxifrage extract are the existing commercial products (the product specification: water extract, the extraction ratio is 10: 1, namely 10 parts of dry weight traditional Chinese medicine extract is 1 part of dry weight traditional Chinese medicine extract);
the herba Portulacae extractive solution and semen Fagopyri Esculenti extractive solution are commercially available products, wherein the mass concentration of the extract (dry weight) is 1%.
Example 1
(1) Preparing a whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition:
uniformly mixing 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol, 10 parts of carnosine, 10.1 parts of nonapeptide, 0.1 part of tripeptide-10 citrulline, 20.1 parts of hexapeptide, 10.2 parts of tripeptide, 80.2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide, 1 part of phenoxyethanol and 63.35 parts of pure water to obtain the whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition.
(2) Preparing a whitening and spot-fading herbal composition:
mixing 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol, 1 part of phenoxyethanol, 4 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 4 parts of dandelion extract, 4 parts of galangal extract, 4 parts of saxifrage extract and 38 parts of pure water, stirring for dissolving, removing tannin by an acid-base method, adjusting the pH to 4.5-5.5, adding 10 parts of purslane extract and 10 parts of buckwheat extract, and obtaining the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition.
(3) Preparing the whitening and spot-lightening composition
And mixing the prepared whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition and the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition according to the mass ratio of 1:1 to obtain the whitening and spot-fading composition.
Example 2
(1) Preparing a whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition:
uniformly mixing 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol, 10 parts of carnosine, 10.1 parts of nonapeptide, 0.1 part of tripeptide-10 citrulline, 20.1 parts of hexapeptide, 10.1 parts of tripeptide, 80.1 parts of acetyl hexapeptide, 1 part of phenoxyethanol and 63.5 parts of pure water to obtain the whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition.
(2) Preparing a whitening and spot-fading herbal composition:
mixing 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol, 1 part of phenoxyethanol, 2 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 2 parts of dandelion extract, 2 parts of galangal extract, 2 parts of saxifrage extract and 38 parts of pure water, stirring for dissolving, removing tannin by an acid-base method, adjusting the pH to 4.5-5.5, adding 15 parts of purslane extract and 15 parts of buckwheat extract, and obtaining the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition.
(3) Preparing the whitening and spot-lightening composition
And mixing the prepared whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition and the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition according to the mass ratio of 1:1 to obtain the whitening and spot-fading composition.
Example 3
(1) Preparing a whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition:
uniformly mixing 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol, 5 parts of carnosine, 10.05 parts of nonapeptide, 0.2 part of tripeptide-10 citrulline, 20.2 parts of hexapeptide, 10.1 parts of tripeptide, 80.1 parts of acetyl hexapeptide, 1 part of phenoxyethanol and 68.35 parts of pure water to obtain the whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition.
(2) Preparing a whitening and spot-fading herbal composition:
mixing 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol, 1 part of phenoxyethanol, 6 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 6 parts of dandelion extract, 6 parts of galangal extract, 6 parts of saxifrage extract and 30 parts of pure water, stirring for dissolving, removing tannin by an acid-base method, adjusting the pH to 4.5-5.5, adding 10 parts of purslane extract and 10 parts of buckwheat extract, and obtaining the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition.
(3) Preparing the whitening and spot-lightening composition
And mixing the prepared whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition and the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition according to the mass ratio of 1:1 to obtain the whitening and spot-fading composition.
Example 4
(1) Preparing a whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition:
uniformly mixing 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol, 20 parts of carnosine, 10.2 parts of nonapeptide, 0.05 part of tripeptide-10 citrulline, 20.05 parts of hexapeptide, 10.1 parts of tripeptide, 80.1 parts of acetyl hexapeptide, 1 part of phenoxyethanol and 53.5 parts of pure water to obtain the whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition.
(2) Preparing a whitening and spot-fading herbal composition:
mixing 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol, 1 part of phenoxyethanol, 4 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 4 parts of dandelion extract, 4 parts of galangal extract, 4 parts of saxifrage extract and 48 parts of pure water, stirring for dissolving, removing tannin by an acid-base method, adjusting the pH to 4.5-5.5, adding 5 parts of purslane extract and 5 parts of buckwheat extract, and obtaining the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition.
(3) Preparing the whitening and spot-lightening composition
And mixing the prepared whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition and the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition according to the mass ratio of 1:1 to obtain the whitening and spot-fading composition.
Example 5
(1) Preparing a whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition:
uniformly mixing 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol, 5 parts of carnosine, 10.1 parts of nonapeptide, 0.1 part of tripeptide-10 citrulline, 20.1 parts of hexapeptide, 10.2 parts of tripeptide, 80.2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide, 1 part of phenoxyethanol and 63.35 parts of pure water to obtain the whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition.
(2) Preparing a whitening and spot-fading herbal composition:
mixing 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol, 1 part of phenoxyethanol, 5 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 5 parts of dandelion extract, 5 parts of galangal extract, 5 parts of saxifrage extract and 48 parts of pure water, stirring for dissolving, removing tannin by an acid-base method, adjusting the pH to 4.5-5.5, adding 5 parts of purslane extract and 5 parts of buckwheat extract, and obtaining the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition.
(3) Preparing the whitening and spot-lightening composition
And mixing the prepared whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition and the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition according to the mass ratio of 1:1 to obtain the whitening and spot-fading composition.
The whitening and spot-fading effects of the whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition and the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition of the invention and the synergistic effect of the components are verified through the following test examples 1-2:
in the skin care product, effective components cannot completely enter a cell layer to act on cells due to the obstruction of a skin surface layer, and polypeptide components in a cell experiment are directly contacted with the cells, so the polypeptide concentration in the cell experiment is much lower than that in a product formula.
Test example 1
1. Experimental materials and instruments
Materials: the cell strain is mouse melanoma cell B16; DMEM-high sugar medium, dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), trypsin, RIPA lysate and tetramethyl azozolium (TMM); the detection sample is the peptides produced by me.
The instrument comprises the following steps: an electronic analytical balance, a high-speed refrigerated centrifuge, an ultra-clean workbench, a carbon dioxide incubator, an inverted microscope, a liquid nitrogen biological container and an enzyme-labeling instrument.
2. The experimental method comprises the following steps:
MTT detection of cell proliferation rate mouse melanoma cell B16 in 4 × 104Inoculating each cell/well in 96-well plate, after cell adherence, replacing culture solution (DMEM-high sugar culture medium) with fresh culture solution containing different peptide combinations for 1 time, setting up 3 repeated experimental groups in each group, at 37 deg.C and 5% CO2After 24h of culture in the incubator, the culture solution is aspirated off, 100. mu.l of MTT solution (5mg/ml) is added to each well, the supernatant is aspirated off after 4h of subsequent culture, 150. mu.l of DMSO is added to each well, shaking is carried out for 15min, the precipitate is fully dissolved, and the absorbance is measured by a microplate reader at 570 nm.
Measuring melanin content by measuring cell concentration of 1 × 105The cell suspension of B16/ml was inoculated in 6-well plates at 2ml per well, and the plates were incubated at 37 ℃ with 5% CO2After culturing cells in an incubator for 24 hours, removing the culture solution by suction, replacing the culture solution with a fresh culture solution containing different peptide combinations for 1 time, repeating each group with three holes, after 72 hours, removing the supernatant, washing with 0.01M PBS buffer solution with pH7.4 for 1 time, digesting the cells in the pore plate with pancreatin solution with the concentration of 0.25% (W/V), collecting the cells in an EP tube after digestion is stopped, centrifuging for 3 minutes, removing the supernatant, adding 100 mu l of RIPA lysate into each hole, fully reflecting the reaction, centrifuging, removing the supernatant, adding 150 mu L1 mol/L NaOH, placing the cell in a thermostat at 95 ℃ for 1 hour to dissolve melanin, measuring absorbance at 450nm by an enzyme labeling instrument, and calculating the melanin content of each administration hole.
Melanin content-melanin content OD 450/cell proliferation rate OD570 × 100%.
The following test groups were set up:
control group: a blank PBS group;
group 1: contains carnosine 10 mu g/ml;
group 2: contains nonapeptide-10.1 μ g/ml and hexapeptide-20.1 μ g/ml, and is classified into one group because the melanin inhibiting effect is proved by authority;
group 3: comprises tripeptide-10.01 mug/ml and tripeptide-10 citrulline 0.1 mug/ml;
group 4: contains acetyl hexapeptide-80.2 mug/ml;
group 5: contains nonapeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, hexapeptide-20.1 μ g/ml, carnosine 10 μ g/ml;
group 6: contains nonapeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, hexapeptide-20.1 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10 citrulline 0.1 μ g/ml;
group 7: contains nonapeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, hexapeptide-20.1 μ g/ml, acetyl hexapeptide-80.2 μ g/ml;
group 8: contains nonapeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, hexapeptide-20.1 μ g/ml, carnosine 10 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10 citrulline 0.1 μ g/ml;
group 9: contains nonapeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, hexapeptide-20.1 μ g/ml, carnosine 10 μ g/ml, acetyl hexapeptide-80.2 μ g/ml;
group 10: contains nonapeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, hexapeptide-20.1 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10 citrulline 0.1 μ g/ml, acetyl hexapeptide-80.2 μ g/ml;
group 11: contains nonapeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, hexapeptide-20.1 μ g/ml, carnosine 10 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10 citrulline 0.1 μ g/ml, acetyl hexapeptide-80.2 μ g/ml;
group 12: contains nonapeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, hexapeptide-20.1 μ g/ml, carnosine 10 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10 citrulline 0.1 μ g/ml, acetyl hexapeptide-80.1 μ g/ml;
group 13: the content of nonapeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, hexapeptide-20.1 μ g/ml, carnosine 10 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10.05 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10 citrulline 0.05 μ g/ml, acetyl hexapeptide-80.2 μ g/ml.
Group 14: the content of nonapeptide-10.1 μ g/ml, hexapeptide-20.1 μ g/ml, carnosine 10 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10.2 μ g/ml, tripeptide-10 citrulline 0.1 μ g/ml, acetyl hexapeptide-80.2 μ g/ml.
The results of the experiment are shown in table 1:
TABLE 1
The results show that: nonapeptide-1 in combination with hexapeptide-2 (group 2) inhibited melanin production; carnosine (group 1) had some effect but was less pronounced than nonapeptide-1 & hexapeptide-2 (group 2); the combination of tripeptide-1 with the tripeptide-10 citrulline (group 3) and acetyl hexapeptide-8 (group 4) had little inhibitory effect. However, after three or more polypeptides are compounded, the inhibition effect is obviously enhanced: combination of nonapeptide-1, hexapeptide-2 and carnosine (group 5), combination of nonapeptide-1, hexapeptide-2, tripeptide-1 and tripeptide-10 citrulline (group 6), and combination of tripeptide-1, tripeptide-10 citrulline and acetyl hexapeptide-8 (group 7), the effect of inhibiting melanin generation is significantly greater than that of group 2; the components are further added, the inhibiting effect of the groups 8-10 is enhanced compared with that of the groups 5-7, and the best effect is achieved when all six polypeptides, namely nonapeptide-1, hexapeptide-2, carnosine, tripeptide-1, tripeptide-10 citrulline and acetyl hexapeptide-8, are compounded (groups 11-14).
Test example 2
1. Experimental material and experimental instrument
95% ethanol, L-tyrosine, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenyl hydrazine (DPPH), tyrosinase, disodium hydrogen phosphate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate;
a constant temperature water bath kettle and an ultraviolet spectrophotometer.
2. The preparation method of the natural herbal extract comprises the following steps:
mixing one or more of radix Rhodiolae extract, rhizoma Alpiniae Officinarum extract, herba Taraxaci extract, and herba Saxifragae extract (specific components and dosage are shown in data of each sample), adding butanediol 20g, pentanediol 5g, phenoxyethanol 1g, and pure water 56g, stirring for dissolving for 4 hr, and adding Ca (OH)2Adjusting the pH value of the plant solution to be more than 10.0, sequentially filtering with filter paper and a 0.45 micrometer filter membrane to remove tannin, adjusting the pH value of the obtained clear and transparent liquid with citric acid to be 4-6.5, standing for 24h, and sequentially filtering with filter paper and a 0.45 micrometer filter membrane to remove excessive Ca in the solution2+(ii) a And then adding the purslane extract and the buckwheat extract, and uniformly mixing to prepare a natural herbal extract.
The following sample groups were set, and the extract components contained in the sample groups were prepared according to the above preparation methods:
C1: 2g of rhodiola rosea extract;
C2: saxifraga stolonifera extract 2g；
C3: 1g of rhodiola rosea extract and 1g of saxifrage extract respectively;
C4: 1g of galangal extract and 1g of dandelion extract respectively;
C5: 5g of purslane extract and buckwheat extract respectively;
C6: 2g of rhodiola rosea extract, 1g of galangal and 1g of dandelion respectively;
C7: 2g of saxifrage extract, 1g of galangal and 1g of dandelion respectively;
C8: rhodiola rosea extract, saxifrage extract 1g respectively, galangal extract, dandelion extract 1g respectively;
C9: rhodiola rosea extract, saxifrage extract 1g respectively, galangal extract, dandelion extract 1g respectively, purslane extract and buckwheat extract 5g respectively.
The whitening effect is verified through tyrosinase activity inhibition experiments and DPPH free radical removal experiments.
Tyrosinase activity inhibition assay
Solution preparation:
tyrosine solution: 0.3 mol/ml; aqueous tyrosinase solution: 1.0 mg/ml; PBS buffer (phosphate buffer): 0.2M, pH 6.8;
l-tyrosinase solution and tyrosinase water solution, and storing at 4 deg.C in dark place.
The experimental method comprises the following steps:
according to the table 2, each group of samples was prepared by mixing the samples, PBS and L-tyrosine in a test tube, heating in a 37 ℃ water bath for 10min (to make the reaction temperature consistent and reduce the variation), adding tyrosinase, mixing uniformly, reacting at 37 ℃ for 10min, recording the absorbance in a 475nm ultraviolet spectrophotometer by using a quartz cuvette, and calculating the inhibition rate of tyrosinase [1- (Ac) (inhibition rate of tyrosinase is 1: [1- (Ac ]) according to the following formulax-Ac)/(At2-At1)]*100％
TABLE 2
(absorption: 475nm, three sets of parallel experiments, blank: PBS (2M, ph:6.8))
DPPH free radical scavenging experiment
Solution preparation:
DPPH solution (1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine): 0.05mg/ml (dissolved in 95% ethanol, sonicated for 5 min);
sample liquid: 5% sample solution + 95% pure ethanol;
the experimental method comprises the following steps:
each group of samples was added to a test tube according to table 3, mixed well and reacted for 30min in the dark, then detected in a 517nm uv spectrophotometer, and the recorded values were substituted into the following formula to calculate the radical scavenging rate.
Clearance rate ═ 1- (Ax-A)3)/A1]*100％。
TABLE 3
(absorption: 517nm, three groups in parallel, blank: 95% ethanol)
The measurement results are shown in Table 4:
TABLE 4
It is believed that the mechanism of melanin production is that tyrosine on melanin in melanocytes is catalyzed by tyrosinase, whereas ultraviolet light can cause tyrosinase activity and melanocyte activity to increase.
The results show that when the galangal extract, the dandelion extract and the rhodiola extract are compounded (C)6) Or mixing with herba Saxifragae extract (C)7) The components have synergistic effect, and the tyrosinase inhibition rate and the DPPH clearance rate are improved and are superior to those of C1、C2、C4Group (d); c8、C9The effect of the group is significantly better than that of group C3、C4、C5Group, description C3、C4、C5The herbal extracts of the group have synergistic effect, wherein C is9The herbal composition for whitening and lightening the spots has the optimal group effect, and the herbal composition for whitening and lightening the spots can inhibit the generation of pigment by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and further has the double effects of resisting oxidation of melanin deposited on the surface layer and lightening the spots.
The whitening and spot-lightening efficacy of the whitening and spot-lightening composition and the synergistic effect of the whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition and the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition after being combined together are verified by the following test example 3:
test example 3
Preparing a whitening and spot-lightening skin care product:
1. preparation of aqueous phase: mixing, stirring and heating the water phase component and the chlorophenyl glycoside ether in the auxiliary material matrix to 85 ℃ at a stirring speed of 300-400 rpm, and preserving heat for 30 min;
2. preparation of oil phase: adding the oil phase components into a beaker, mixing, stirring and heating at a stirring speed of 300-400 rpm to 75 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 15 min;
3. emulsification: mixing the water phase and the oil phase which are uniformly dissolved, uniformly stirring the mixture by using a stirrer at the speed of 300-400 rpm, homogenizing the mixture for 5-10 min by using a homogenizer at the speed of 3000rpm, and naturally cooling the mixture to below 45 ℃ to prepare a semi-finished product for later use;
4. and (3) adjusting the pH value to 5.5-6.5 by using a pH regulator, adding the effective components into the semi-finished product, and mixing and stirring uniformly.
The skin care product with the following three formulas is prepared:
the oil phase and the water phase of the skin care product for whitening and lightening spots are the same, and the difference is only that the effective components are different:
the weight ratio of each substance is as follows:
oil phase: 3kg of isononyl isononanoate, 3kg of cyclomethicone, 2kg of polydimethylsiloxane, 1.5kg of cetostearyl alcohol, 1.5kg of fatty acid monoglyceride, 1kg of beeswax and 1kg of stearic acid;
water phase: 5kg of glycerin, 7kg of butanediol, 102 kg of polyglycerol, 0.2kg of carrageenan and 66.25kg of pure water;
preservative: 0.5kg of phenoxyethanol and 0.05kg of chlorophenyl glycoside ether;
whitening spot-lightening skin care product No. 1: 2kg of the whitening and spot-lightening composition prepared in example 1 as an effective component;
whitening spot-lightening skin care product No. 2: the effective components comprise 1kg of the whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition prepared in the example 1, and 0.4kg of butanediol, 0.02 part of phenoxyethanol and 1.48kg of pure water are added;
whitening spot-lightening skin care product No. 3: the effective components comprise 1kg of the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition prepared in the example 1, and 0.4kg of butanediol, 0.02 part of phenoxyethanol and 1.48kg of pure water are added.
The method comprises the steps of selecting 60 women with chloasma on the faces of 30-40 years old, randomly dividing the women into three groups, carrying out long-term experiments for 60 days by 20 people in each group, using the women once after washing the faces in the morning and evening, smearing the whole face, recording, detecting and analyzing facial stains of an experiencer before use, in use and after finishing by a magic mirror face imaging analysis system, and enabling the three groups of experiencers to have differences after 60 days:
skin care product No. 1 experimental group: fading the whole facial color spots by 40-50%;
skin care product No. 2 experimental group: fading the whole facial color spots by 25-30%;
skin care product No. 3 experimental group: and 5-10% of the whole facial color spot is faded.
Specific cases of some examples are listed below:
example 1:
when a certain sun is in age 32, the whitening spot-lightening cosmetic No. 3 is used, chloasma appears in the original facial condition, inflammation appears in the part with reduced skin quality, and the face color is yellow and dark; after the product No. 1 is continuously used for 60 days, facial color spots are not obviously lightened, the skin color is obviously lightened, and the skin inflammation is improved without adverse reaction.
Example 2:
when the whitening spot-fading cosmetic No. 2 is used for 33 years old and young girl, the original facial condition has chloasma, the cuticle is thin and red blood streaks appear, the skin is white but dark, after the product No. 2 is continuously used for 60 days, the facial speckles are faded by 25-30%, the red blood streaks are obviously improved, and the skin is brightened.
Example 3:
when the whitening spot-fading cosmetic 1 is used for a certain populus female in the age of 32 years, chloasma exists in the original facial condition, rough pores of the skin are enlarged, local inflammation occurs, the skin color is dark, pale, yellow and black under-eye circles, the facial spots are faded by 40-50% after the product 3 is used for 60 days, the original rough skin becomes tender, the skin inflammation is reduced, and the skin is bright, white and ruddy.
The whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition has a synergistic effect with a whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition, has remarkable freckle-removing and whitening effects on various stains and dark skin, has no toxic or side effect, and can obviously improve the skin quality.
Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.
Claims (10)
1. The whitening spot-lightening composition is characterized by comprising a whitening spot-lightening polypeptide composition, wherein the whitening spot-lightening polypeptide composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: nonapeptide-10.05-0.5 part, hexapeptide-20.001-0.5 part, component a;
the component a is one or more selected from 5-20 parts of carnosine-10.05-0.5 part of tripeptide-10, 0.01-0.5 part of tripeptide-10 citrulline and 0. 80.05-0.5 part of acetyl hexapeptide.
2. The whitening spot-lightening composition of claim 1, wherein the whitening spot-lightening polypeptide composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: nonapeptide-10.05-0.2 parts, hexapeptide-20.05-0.02 parts, component a;
the component a is one or more selected from 5-15 parts of carnosine, 10.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide, 0.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10 citrulline and 80.1-0.2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide;
further, the component a is selected from one of the following (1) to (6):
(1) 5-15 parts of carnosine;
(2) 10.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10 and 0.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10 citrulline;
(3) 80.1-0.2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide;
(4) 5-15 parts of carnosine, 10.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10 and 0.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10 citrulline;
(5) 5-15 parts of carnosine and 80.1-0.2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide;
(6) 5-15 parts of carnosine, 10.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10, 0.05-0.2 parts of tripeptide-10 citrulline and 80.1-0.2 parts of acetyl hexapeptide;
furthermore, the whitening and spot-lightening composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: nonapeptide-10.1 parts, hexapeptide-20.1 parts, carnosine 10 parts, tripeptide-10 citrulline 0.1 part, tripeptide-10.2 parts and acetyl hexapeptide-80.2 parts.
3. The whitening spot-lightening composition of claim 1, further comprising a whitening spot-lightening herbal composition, wherein the whitening spot-lightening herbal composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2-6 parts of dandelion extract, 2-6 parts of galangal extract and a component b;
the component b is selected from one or more of 2-6 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 2-6 parts of saxifrage extract, 0.05-0.15 part of purslane extract and 0.05-0.15 part of buckwheat extract;
further, the component b is selected from one of the following (7) to (10):
(7) 2-6 parts of rhodiola rosea extract;
(8) 2-6 parts of saxifrage extract;
(9) 2-6 parts of rhodiola rosea extract and 2-6 parts of saxifrage extract;
(10) 2-6 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 2-6 parts of saxifrage extract, 0.05-0.15 part of purslane extract and 0.05-0.15 part of buckwheat extract;
furthermore, the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 4 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 4 parts of saxifrage extract, 4 parts of dandelion extract, 4 parts of galangal extract, 0.1 part of purslane extract and 0.1 part of buckwheat extract.
4. The whitening spot-lightening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the whitening spot-lightening polypeptide composition or the whitening spot-lightening herbal composition further comprises one or more of a solvent, an auxiliary preservative and a preservative.
5. The whitening spot-lightening composition of claim 4, wherein the solvent or co-preservative is selected from butylene glycol and/or pentylene glycol, and the preservative is phenoxyethanol;
furthermore, the whitening spot-lightening polypeptide composition or the whitening spot-lightening herbal composition also comprises 10-30 parts of butanediol, 2-8 parts of pentanediol and 0.2-1.5 parts of phenoxyethanol, preferably 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol and 1 part of phenoxyethanol.
6. The whitening spot-lightening composition of claim 4 or 5, wherein the whitening spot-lightening polypeptide composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: nonapeptide-10.1 parts, hexapeptide-20.1 parts, carnosine 10 parts, tripeptide-10.2 parts, tripeptide-10 citrulline 0.1 part, acetyl hexapeptide-80.2 parts, butanediol 20 parts, pentanediol 5 parts, phenoxyethanol 1 part and water 63.35 parts;
the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 4 parts of rhodiola rosea extract, 4 parts of dandelion extract, 4 parts of galangal extract, 4 parts of saxifrage extract, 0.1 part of purslane extract, 0.1 part of buckwheat extract, 20 parts of butanediol, 5 parts of pentanediol, 1 part of phenoxyethanol and 57.8 parts of water.
7. The preparation method of the whitening and spot-lightening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which comprises the following steps: mixing the raw materials; if the raw materials contain Chinese medicinal extract, removing tannin from the Chinese medicinal extract, and mixing with the rest components;
further, the whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition or the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition is prepared respectively and then mixed.
8. A product for whitening and lightening spots, which is characterized by comprising the whitening and lightening spot composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6;
further, the content of the whitening and spot-lightening composition is 0.5-5%, preferably 1-3%;
the product is a skin care product or a skin external medicine.
9. The product for whitening and lightening spots according to claim 8 is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 0.5 to 5 parts of the whitening and spot-lightening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, and 1 to 5 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 1 to 5 parts of cyclomethicone, 1 to 5 parts of dimethicone, 01 to 3 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 1 to 2 parts of fatty acid monoglyceride, 0.5 to 2 parts of beeswax, 0.5 to 2 parts of stearic acid, 3 to 7 parts of glycerin, 5 to 15 parts of butanediol, 101 to 3 parts of polyglycerin-101, 0.1 to 0.3 part of carrageenan, 55 to 70 parts of water, 0.2 to 0.8 part of phenoxyethanol, 0.02 to 0.08 part of chlorophenyl glycoside ether;
further comprises the following steps: 1 part of the whitening and spot-lightening polypeptide composition of any one of claims 1 to 6, 1 part of the whitening and spot-lightening herbal composition of any one of claims 3 to 6, 3 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 3 parts of cyclomethicone, 2 parts of dimethicone, 1.5 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 1.5 parts of fatty monoglyceride, 1 part of beeswax, 1 part of stearic acid, 5 parts of glycerol, 7 parts of butanediol, 102 parts of polyglycerol-102, 0.2 part of carrageenan, 66.25 parts of water, 0.5 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.05 part of chlorophenyl glycoside ether.
10. The method for preparing a product for whitening and lightening spots according to claim 9 is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) preparation of aqueous phase: mixing glycerol, butanediol, polyglycerol-10, carrageenan, water and chlorphenesin, heating to 80-90 ℃, and preserving heat for 10-60 min;
(2) preparation of oil phase: mixing isononyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, cetostearyl alcohol, fatty acid monoglyceride, beeswax and stearic acid, heating to 70-80 deg.C, and keeping the temperature for 5-30 min;
(3) emulsification: mixing the water phase and the oil phase, homogenizing, and cooling to below 45 deg.C to obtain semi-finished product;
(4) and adjusting the pH value of the semi-finished product to 5.5-6.5, and then mixing the whitening and spot-fading polypeptide composition and/or the whitening and spot-fading herbal composition with the semi-finished product and phenoxyethanol.
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