CN111300951A - 一种防水西服面料的制备方法 - Google Patents

一种防水西服面料的制备方法 Download PDF

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CN111300951A
CN111300951A CN202010203588.6A CN202010203588A CN111300951A CN 111300951 A CN111300951 A CN 111300951A CN 202010203588 A CN202010203588 A CN 202010203588A CN 111300951 A CN111300951 A CN 111300951A
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fabric
waterproof
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polymer
parts
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陈伟
林绍辉
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Anhui Yishang Textile Technology Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种防水西服面料的制备方法，具体包括以下步骤：S1、将羊毛纤维、棉纤维和珍珠纤维混纺，制备得表层面料；S2、将改性聚氨酯乳液、增稠剂、氨水和交联剂混合均匀，配制成织物涂层剂；S3、将织物涂层剂均匀涂布在表层面料上，并干燥；S4、将基布放置于胶辊中，将粘接剂涂覆在基布表面；S5、将防水表层面料贴合在涂覆有粘接剂的基布上，使用压烫机将防水表层面料和基布进行热压合；S6、将热压合的面料经冷却、切边、收卷后得到防水西服面料；本发明通过在西服表层面料上涂布织物涂层剂，在西服面料的织物表面涂上一层附着力较强的聚氨酯薄膜，使西服表层面料具有一定的防水性能和力学性能。

Description

一种防水西服面料的制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及服装制造技术领域，具体涉及一种防水西服面料的制备方法。
背景技术
西服作为现代正式的社交场合的常用服装，多选用优质的混纺面料，纯棉、纯毛、纯丝、纯麻等天然面料因有着易褶皱、易变形等缺点，较少作为高档服装用料。随着西服需求量的增加，西服也需要适应不同的环境，提升一定的性能，如防水、透湿、耐磨等。
织物涂层剂是指在针织布、涤纶等织物的表面涂上一层附着力较强的聚合物，经过一定的化学工序处理得到的多功能性的涂层织物。织物构成一个骨架，提供强度，而涂层提供防护等功能，使织物具有一些独特的性能，如防水、防火、阻燃、透湿气、耐化学品腐蚀、防绒毛脱落、微波屏蔽等。同时涂层还往往可以提供美术和装饰的效果，因此通过对织物进行涂层整理，可赋予织物原先并没有的风格或功能。相比其它涂饰材料，水性聚氨酯以其分子结构可调性强、粘附力强、耐磨、耐寒、抗疲劳、柔韧性高、手感好、及优异的环保性等优点快速进入人们的视野。
水性聚氨酯具有优异的粘结性能，成膜柔软性可控，以它作为织物涂层剂，能紧紧的粘在织物表面，提高织物的耐摩擦性能和柔软程度。但目前市场上制备的水性聚氨酯为了使其能在水中乳化，在合成中加入亲水扩链剂。亲水扩链剂的加入虽然解决了水性聚氨酯在水中的乳化问题，但易使干燥成膜后的聚氨酯涂层被水渗透而溶胀，同时水性聚氨酯中含有的一些酯键也易水解而发生键的断裂，破坏了水性聚氨酯内部的分子结构，机械强度下降，从而影响到整个涂层的性能。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种防水西服面料的制备方法，可以解决问题如下：
1、通过在西服表层面料上涂布织物涂层剂，在西服面料的织物表面涂上一层附着力较强的聚氨酯薄膜，使西服表层面料具有一定的防水性能；
2、通过对织物涂层剂的主原料聚氨酯乳液进行改性，提升织物涂层剂的防水性、力学性能、柔顺性等性能。
本发明的目的可以通过以下技术方案实现：
一种防水西服面料的制备方法，具体包括以下步骤：
S1、将羊毛纤维、棉纤维和珍珠纤维混纺，制备得表层面料，羊毛纤维、棉纤维和珍珠纤维的质量比为1：0.2-0.5：0.1-0.2，通过加入珍珠纤维，有利于提升表层面料的防皱性；
S2、将改性聚氨酯乳液、增稠剂、氨水和交联剂混合均匀，配制成织物涂层剂，改性聚氨酯乳液、增稠剂、氨水和交联剂的质量比分别为85-90：5-10：1-3：1-2；
S3、将织物涂层剂均匀涂布在表层面料上，并在80-100℃下干燥1-10min，接着在120-150℃下焙烘1-10min，得防水表层面料；
S4、将基布放置于胶辊中，将粘接剂涂覆在基布表面，涂覆过程维持温度在60-70℃；
S5、将防水表层面料贴合在涂覆有粘接剂的基布上，使用压烫机将防水表层面料和基布进行热压合，热压合为50-60℃；
S6、将热压合的面料经冷却、切边、收卷后得到防水西服面料。
通过使用改性聚氨酯乳液作为织物涂层剂，改性聚氨酯为水性聚氨酯的一种，水性聚氨酯结构中含有的极性基团有关，如氨酯键、脲键、离子键等，它们与表层面料之间有库伦力、范德华引力和氢键作用，使水性聚氨酯与织物间粘接力大于织物的内聚力，小于水性聚氨酯之间的内聚力，从而水性聚氨酯能与西服表层面料紧紧粘合，并形成一层连续而致密的膜从而实现防水性能，并且聚氨酯膜与表层面料紧密结合，使膜层耐水洗而不容易脱落，从而既达到对西服表层面料的结合又起到防水性能。
优选的，所述改性聚氨酯乳液由如下重量份的原料制备而成：聚醚二元醇10-15份、异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯20-25份、二羟甲基丙酸1-3份、1，4-丁二醇1-3份、辛酸亚锡0.1-0.5份、含氟硅油2-5份、丙酮1-5份、三乙胺1-5份和去离子水20-50份；
具体制备方法如下：
A1、氮气保护下，将聚醚二元醇加入反应瓶中，加热至60-70℃，并滴加异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯，然后升温至80-90℃，保温反应1-2h，得聚合物一；
异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯和聚醚二元醇的反应是合成水性聚氨酯的主要反应，异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯的分子中有两个不同反应活性的NCO基团，分子中的伯NCO基受到α-取代甲基和环己烷环的位阻作用，使得其反应活性要比连在环己烷上的仲NCO基团的反应活性低，这使得在合成中产生的副反应少，同时反应过程较温和、易控制，容易制得目标分子量的预聚体，聚醚二元醇结构中含有醚键，醚键较易旋转，具有良好的柔顺性，且低温性能好，通过聚醚二元醇作为原料合成的水性聚氨酯作为涂层剂，能使西服表层面料在很低的温度下仍能保持良好的手感。
A2、氮气保护下，向聚合物一中加入二羟甲基丙酸、1，4-丁二醇和辛酸亚锡，升温至75-85℃，保温反应3-5h，得聚合物二；
通过加入二羟甲基丙酸，体系中羧基的数量增加，预聚体和三乙胺成盐后与水形成的水合离子稳定性也就越高，聚氨酯分子与水分子相互之间的作用力增强，致使粒子移动阻力增大，从而乳液粘度升高，同时分子链亲水性的增加，提高了大分子的水化作用，减少了分子链间的相互缠绕，使乳胶粒数目增加，粒径减少，乳液的稳定性变强，通过加入1，4-丁二醇来提高聚合物的分子量以提高膜层的力学性能。
A3、氮气保护下，向聚合物二降温至40-60℃，并向反应瓶中加入含氟硅油，反应3-5h，然后加入丙酮，降低反应液黏度，得聚合物三；
A4、氮气保护下，将聚合物三降温至35-40℃，并加入三乙胺，搅拌0.5-1h，然后滴加去离子水，滴毕，继续搅拌1-2h，得改性聚氨酯乳液。
优选的，所述聚醚二元醇的制备方法如下：向反应瓶中加入邻苯二甲酸酐、1，3-丙二醇和DMC催化剂，升温至100-110℃减压脱水0.5-1h，氮气置换3次，升温至120-130℃加入环氧丙烷，反应4-8h，减压脱除小分子杂质，得到聚醚二元醇，反应方程式如下：
Figure BDA0002420191580000041
通过以邻苯二甲酸酐、1，3-丙二醇和环氧丙烷为原料，在DMC催化剂的催化下进行酯化、开环和共聚反应，在聚醚多元醇中引入酯基和环氧丙烷，使聚醚二元醇不仅具有耐水解、耐低温、耐屈挠等性能，还具有良好的耐磨性和耐热性，弥补了现有聚醚二元醇的缺陷。
优选的，所述邻苯二甲酸酐、1，3-丙二醇、环氧丙烷和DMC催化剂的质量比为1：0.2-0.6:0.3-0.8:0.01-0.05。
优选的，所述含氟硅油的制备方法如下：氮气保护下，在反应瓶中加入乙二胺和去离子水，加热至50-60℃反应搅拌0.5-1h，然后加入三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷(D3F)，升温至100-110℃，反应5-10h，减压脱除水分和乙二胺，得含氟硅油，反应方程式如下：
Figure BDA0002420191580000051
含氟硅油分子结构中，烷基和硅原子的亲水性弱，亲水性较好的氧原子被甲基包裹着，因此具有良好的疏水性，并且，由于硅氧烷键键角很大，可以自由旋转，使得有机桂分子具有很好的润滑性，及柔顺性；同时，有机硅的表面能低，在成膜过程中倾向于向涂层表面富集，因此将有机硅对水性聚氨酯进行改性运用于西服面料上，可得到防水性能和综合性能优异的涂层，有机硅的支链上有三氟甲基，三氟甲基是疏水基团，也是强吸电子基，支链上存在三氟甲基，并将氟原子引入聚氨酯的大分子链中，有利于进一步提高西服面料的防水性能，同时可提升耐溶剂性和耐候性。
优选的，所述乙二胺、去离子水和三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷的质量比为1：0.2-0.6：90-110。
优选的，所述增稠剂的型号为DM-5256。
优选的，所述交联剂的型号选自SAC-100、UN-7、UN-557或UN-178中的一种。
本发明的有益效果为：
1、通过使用改性聚氨酯乳液作为织物涂层剂，改性聚氨酯为水性聚氨酯的一种，水性聚氨酯结构中含有的极性基团有关，如氨酯键、脲键、离子键等，它们与表层面料之间有库伦力、范德华引力和氢键作用，使水性聚氨酯与织物间粘接力大于织物的内聚力，小于水性聚氨酯之间的内聚力，从而水性聚氨酯能与西服表层面料紧紧粘合，并形成一层连续而致密的膜从而实现防水性能，并且聚氨酯膜与表层面料紧密结合，使膜层耐水洗而不容易脱落，从而既达到对西服表层面料的结合又起到防水性能；
2、通过使用异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯和聚醚二元醇作为主原料合成水性聚氨酯，异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯的分子中有两个不同反应活性的NCO基团，这使得在合成中产生的副反应少，同时反应过程较温和、易控制，容易制得目标分子量的预聚体，聚醚二元醇结构中含有醚键，醚键较易旋转，具有良好的柔顺性，且低温性能好，通过聚醚二元醇作为原料合成的水性聚氨酯作为涂层剂，能使西服表层面料在很低的温度下仍能保持良好的手感；通过以邻苯二甲酸酐、1，3-丙二醇和环氧丙烷为原料，在DMC催化剂的催化下进行酯化、开环和共聚反应，在聚醚多元醇中引入酯基和环氧丙烷，使聚醚二元醇不仅具有耐水解、耐低温、耐屈挠等性能，还具有良好的耐磨性和耐热性，弥补了现有聚醚二元醇的缺陷；通过使用含氟硅油改性聚氨酯链，含氟硅油具有良好的疏水性，并且，由于硅氧烷键键角很大，可以自由旋转，使得有机桂分子具有很好的润滑性，及柔顺性；同时，有机硅的表面能低，在成膜过程中倾向于向涂层表面富集，因此将有机硅对水性聚氨酯进行改性运用于西服面料上，可得到防水性能和综合性能优异的涂层，有机硅的支链上有三氟甲基，三氟甲基是疏水基团，也是强吸电子基，支链上存在三氟甲基，并将氟原子引入聚氨酯的大分子链中，有利于进一步提高西服面料的防水性能，同时可提升耐溶剂性和耐候性。
具体实施方式
下面将结合实施例对本发明的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述，显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有作出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其它实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围。
实施例1
聚醚二元醇的制备：
向反应瓶中加入邻苯二甲酸酐50g、1，3-丙二醇25g和DMC催化剂1g，升温至100℃减压脱水0.5h，然后氮气置换3次，再升温至120℃后加入环氧丙烷30g，反应6h，减压脱除小分子杂质，得到聚醚二元醇。
实施例2
含氟硅油的制备：
氮气保护下，在反应瓶中加入1g乙二胺和0.5g去离子水，加热至50-60℃反应搅拌0.5h，然后加入100g三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷(D3F)，升温至110℃，反应6h，减压脱除水分和乙二胺，得含氟硅油。
实施例3
改性聚氨酯乳液的制备：
A1、氮气保护下，将50g聚醚二元醇加入反应瓶中，加热至60℃，并滴加80g异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯，然后升温至90℃，保温反应2h，得聚合物一；
A2、氮气保护下，向聚合物一中加入5g二羟甲基丙酸、5g 1，4-丁二醇和1g辛酸亚锡，升温至75℃，保温反应5h，得聚合物二；
A3、氮气保护下，将聚合物二降温至60℃，并向反应瓶中加入15g含氟硅油，反应3h，然后加入10g丙酮，得聚合物三；
A4、氮气保护下，将聚合物三降温至35℃，并加入5g三乙胺，搅拌0.5h，然后滴加200g去离子水，滴毕，继续搅拌2h，得改性聚氨酯乳液A。
实施例4
改性聚氨酯乳液的制备：
A1、氮气保护下，将50g聚醚二元醇加入反应瓶中，加热至60℃，并滴加100g异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯，然后升温至90℃，保温反应2h，得聚合物一；
A2、氮气保护下，向聚合物一中加入8g二羟甲基丙酸、8g 1，4-丁二醇和2g辛酸亚锡，升温至75℃，保温反应5h，得聚合物二；
A3、氮气保护下，将聚合物二降温至60℃，并向反应瓶中加入10g含氟硅油，反应3h，然后加入10g丙酮，得聚合物三；
A4、氮气保护下，将聚合物三降温至35℃，并加入5g三乙胺，搅拌0.5h，然后滴加250g去离子水，滴毕，继续搅拌2h，得改性聚氨酯乳液B。
实施例5
改性聚氨酯乳液的制备：
A1、氮气保护下，将45g聚醚二元醇加入反应瓶中，加热至60℃，并滴加80g异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯，然后升温至90℃，保温反应2h，得聚合物一；
A2、氮气保护下，向聚合物一中加入9g二羟甲基丙酸、5g 1，4-丁二醇和1g辛酸亚锡，升温至75℃，保温反应5h，得聚合物二；
A3、氮气保护下，将聚合物二降温至60℃，并向反应瓶中加入15g含氟硅油，反应3h，然后加入15g丙酮，得聚合物三；
A4、氮气保护下，将聚合物三降温至35℃，并加入5g三乙胺，搅拌0.5h，然后滴加200g去离子水，滴毕，继续搅拌2h，得改性聚氨酯乳液C。
实施例6
改性聚氨酯乳液的制备：
A1、氮气保护下，将50g聚醚二元醇加入反应瓶中，加热至60℃，并滴加80g异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯，然后升温至90℃，保温反应2h，得聚合物一；
A2、氮气保护下，向聚合物一中加入5g二羟甲基丙酸、5g 1，4-丁二醇和1g辛酸亚锡，升温至75℃，保温反应5h，得聚合物二；
A3、氮气保护下，将聚合物二降温至35℃，并加入5g三乙胺，搅拌0.5h，然后滴加250g去离子水，滴毕，继续搅拌2h，得改性聚氨酯乳液D。
实施例7
改性聚氨酯乳液的制备：
A1、氮气保护下，将50g聚乙二醇加入反应瓶中，加热至60℃，并滴加80g异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯，然后升温至90℃，保温反应2h，得聚合物一；
A2、氮气保护下，向聚合物一中加入5g二羟甲基丙酸、5g 1，4-丁二醇和1g辛酸亚锡，升温至75℃，保温反应5h，得聚合物二；
A3、氮气保护下，将聚合物二降温至35℃，并加入5g三乙胺，搅拌0.5h，然后滴加250g去离子水，滴毕，继续搅拌2h，得改性聚氨酯乳液E。
实施例8
防水西服面料的制备：
S1、将羊毛纤维、棉纤维和珍珠纤维混纺，制备得表层面料，羊毛纤维、棉纤维和珍珠纤维的质量比为1：0.2：0.1；
S2、将90g改性聚氨酯乳液A\B\C\D\E、6g增稠剂、3g氨水和1g交联剂混合均匀，配制成织物涂层剂；
S3、将织物涂层剂均匀涂布在表层面料上，并在90℃下干燥3min，接着在130℃下焙烘3min，得防水表层面料A\B\C\D\E；
S4、将基布放置于胶辊中，将粘接剂涂覆在基布表面，涂覆过程维持温度在60℃；
S5、将防水表层面料A\B\C\D\E贴合在涂覆有粘接剂的基布上，使用压烫机将防水表层面料和基布进行热压合，热压合为60℃；
S6、将热压合的面料经冷却、切边、收卷后得到防水西服面料A\B\C\D\E。
实施例9
取防水表层面料A\B\C\D\E，按下述方法分别进行测试：
防水表层面料的耐静水压性能测试参照GB/T 4744-1997法测试；
防水表层面料撕破强力测试参照GB/T3917.1-1997法测试；
测试结果如下：
防水表层面料 A B C D E
静水压/kPa 7.02 7.03 7.13 4.28 4.12
撕破强度/N 202.1 209.2 205.4 156.1 114.2
由上表结果可知，通过本发明所制备的防水表层面料A、B、C，其静水压和撕破强度较高，表示改性聚氨酯成膜更加紧密，使表层面料放水性能较高，膜层强度高，防水表层面料D未加含氟硅油，其静水压和撕破强度都有大幅度降低，证明含氟硅油对改性聚氨酯的防水性能有一定提升，防水表层面料E在未加含氟硅油的基础上将聚醚二元醇替换为聚乙二醇，防水表层面料E的撕破强度进一步下降，证明本发明提供的聚醚二元醇有提高膜层强度的作用。
以上公开的本发明优选实施例只是用于帮助阐述本发明。优选实施例并没有详尽叙述所有的细节，也不限制该发明仅为的具体实施方式。显然，根据本说明书的内容，可作很多的修改和变化。本说明书选取并具体描述这些实施例，是为了更好地解释本发明的原理和实际应用，从而使所属技术领域技术人员能很好地理解和利用本发明。本发明仅受权利要求书及其全部范围和等效物的限制。

Claims (9)

1.一种防水西服面料的制备方法，其特征在于，具体包括以下步骤：
S1、将羊毛纤维、棉纤维和珍珠纤维混纺，制备得表层面料，羊毛纤维、棉纤维和珍珠纤维的质量比为1：0.2-0.5：0.1-0.2；
S2、将改性聚氨酯乳液、增稠剂、氨水和交联剂混合均匀，配制成织物涂层剂，改性聚氨酯乳液、增稠剂、氨水和交联剂的质量比为85-90：5-10：1-3：1-2；
S3、将织物涂层剂均匀涂布在表层面料上，并在80-100℃下干燥1-10min，接着在120-150℃下焙烘1-10min，得防水表层面料；
S4、将基布放置于胶辊中，将粘接剂涂覆在基布表面，涂覆过程维持温度在60-70℃；
S5、将防水表层面料贴合在涂覆有粘接剂的基布上，使用压烫机将防水表层面料和基布进行热压合，热压合温度为50-60℃；
S6、将热压合的面料经冷却、切边、收卷后得到防水西服面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种防水西服面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述基布由涤纶、尼龙、锦棉混编而成。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种防水西服面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述改性聚氨酯乳液由如下重量份的原料制备而成：聚醚二元醇10-15份、异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯20-25份、二羟甲基丙酸1-3份、1，4-丁二醇1-3份、辛酸亚锡0.1-0.5份、含氟硅油2-5份、丙酮1-5份、三乙胺1-5份和去离子水20-50份；
具体制备方法如下：
A1、氮气保护下，将聚醚二元醇加入反应瓶中，加热至60-70℃，并滴加异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯，然后升温至80-90℃，保温反应1-2h，得聚合物一；
A2、氮气保护下，向聚合物一中加入二羟甲基丙酸、1，4-丁二醇和辛酸亚锡，升温至75-85℃，保温反应3-5h，得聚合物二；
A3、氮气保护下，将聚合物二降温至50-70℃，并向反应瓶中加入含氟硅油，反应3-5h，然后加入丙酮，得聚合物三；
A4、氮气保护下，将聚合物三降温至35-40℃，并加入三乙胺，搅拌0.5-1h，然后滴加去离子水，滴毕，继续搅拌1-2h，得改性聚氨酯乳液。
4.根据权利要求3所述的一种防水西服面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述聚醚二元醇的制备方法如下：向反应瓶中加入邻苯二甲酸酐、1，3-丙二醇和DMC催化剂，升温至100-110℃减压脱水0.5-1h，氮气置换3次，升温至120-130℃加入环氧丙烷，反应4-8h，减压脱除小分子杂质，得到聚醚二元醇。
5.根据权利要求4所述的一种防水西服面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述邻苯二甲酸酐、1，3-丙二醇、环氧丙烷和DMC催化剂的质量比为1：0.2-0.6:0.3-0.8:0.01-0.05。
6.根据权利要求3所述的一种防水西服面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述含氟硅油的制备方法如下：氮气保护下，在反应瓶中加入乙二胺和去离子水，加热至50-60℃反应搅拌0.5-1h，然后加入三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷，升温至100-110℃，反应5-10h，减压脱除水分和乙二胺，得含氟硅油。
7.根据权利要求6所述的一种防水西服面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述乙二胺、去离子水和三氟丙基甲基环三硅氧烷的质量比为1：0.2-0.6：90-110。
8.根据权利要求1所述的一种防水西服面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述增稠剂的型号为DM-5256。
9.根据权利要求1所述的一种防水西服面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述交联剂的型号选自SAC-100、UN-7、UN-557或UN-178中的一种。
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112644124A (zh) * 2020-09-11 2021-04-13 北京华士威服装有限公司 一种可水洗西服及其制造方法
CN113733684A (zh) * 2021-09-16 2021-12-03 圣华盾防护科技股份有限公司 一种化学防护服面料及防护服

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112644124A (zh) * 2020-09-11 2021-04-13 北京华士威服装有限公司 一种可水洗西服及其制造方法
CN113733684A (zh) * 2021-09-16 2021-12-03 圣华盾防护科技股份有限公司 一种化学防护服面料及防护服

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