CN111249188A

CN111249188A - Acne-removing composition and application thereof in cosmetics

Info

Publication number: CN111249188A
Application number: CN202010189731.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 靳雪; 郭艳
Original assignee: Guangzhou Jiawei Biotechnology Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Jiawei Biotechnology Co Ltd
Priority date: 2020-03-18
Filing date: 2020-03-18
Publication date: 2020-06-09

Abstract

The invention discloses an acne-removing composition and application thereof in cosmetics. The acne-removing composition comprises a filtrate of a fermentation product of tectorial membrane yeast, fruit acid, antibacterial peptide, nano-encapsulated azelaic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide. The mass percentage of the filtrate of the fermentation product of the tectorial membrane yeast in the acne-removing composition is 50-80%. The fruit acid is more than one of malic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or mandelic acid, and the mass percent of the fruit acid in the composition is 5-20%. The acne-removing composition can be applied to cosmetics. The acne-removing composition disclosed by the invention achieves the effects of quickly inhibiting inflammation, sterilizing, controlling oil and removing cutin through the synergistic effect of the five effective components, comprehensively and effectively suppresses acne, has a safe and efficient acne-removing effect, is composed of natural active substances, and has no side effect.

Description

Acne-removing composition and application thereof in cosmetics

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to an acne-removing composition and application thereof in cosmetics.

Background

Acne is a chronic inflammatory dermatosis of hair follicle sebaceous glands, is a common disease of dermatology, is usually found in the skin sebaceous gland-rich parts of face, neck, chest and back, and is commonly seen in young men and women in the development period of the youth, and is called acne in traditional Chinese medicine, and is called acne in western medicine.

In adolescence, hormones in the body can stimulate hair growth and promote sebaceous glands to secrete more oil, so that a plurality of substances are accumulated in the hair and the sebaceous glands, oil and bacteria are attached, and skin red swelling and other reactions are caused.

Modern medicine considers that whelk is the result of multifactorial combined action, and the growth of whelk usually needs to satisfy ① conditions of hair follicle hyperkeratinization, pore blockage, ② endothelial hyperplasia, sebum secretion exuberance and ③ bacteria breeding.

The bacteria existing in the pilosebaceous gland are various in types, including pseudomonas aeruginosa, candida albicans, propionibacterium acnes and the like, wherein propionibacterium acnes is the most predominant bacteria causing whelk, and belongs to typical gram-positive anaerobic bacteria. Fatty acids produced by the metabolism of propionibacterium acnes can stimulate the skin and promote excessive secretion of sebaceous glands, so that sebum excretion is not smooth, and finally inflammatory papules, comedones and pustules are produced, thereby causing inflammation of hair follicles, skin damage and scar formation.

Whelk is the result of multifactorial combined action, but most acne removing products in the existing market are mainly developed aiming at single factors, and have limited effect or easy relapse.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to overcome the defects of the existing acne-removing product, the invention aims to provide the acne-removing composition, which is used for comprehensively treating and preventing acne from five aspects of androgen signal conduction inhibition, sebum regulation and control, cutin softening, inflammation inhibition and bacteriostasis by relying on the modern nano biological preparation technology, and has the advantages of high speed, high efficiency and lasting effect.

The invention also aims to provide application of the acne-removing composition in cosmetics.

The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:

an acne removing composition comprises filtrate of fermentation product of tectorial membrane yeast, fruit acid, antibacterial peptide, nanometer coated azelaic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide;

the filtrate of the fermentation product of the tectorial membrane saccharomycete can regulate sebum secretion, make skin transparent, strengthen skin elasticity and restore skin rhythm and balance. The filtrate contains vitamins, minerals and various amino acids, has effects of nourishing skin, keeping moisture, cleaning and caring pores, skin blemishes and acne, and repairing problem skin, and its mass percentage in the acne removing composition is 50-80%.

The fruit acid has the functions of controlling oil, regulating secretion and softening of sebaceous gland cell grease, removing cutin, opening blocked pores, inhibiting bacteria, inhibiting inflammation and the like;

the fruit acid is more than one of malic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or mandelic acid, and the mass percent of the fruit acid in the composition is 5-20%.

The antibacterial peptide can effectively inhibit propionibacterium acnes and is suitable for various oil control and acne removal products, the antibacterial peptide adopted by the product is derived from high-efficiency polypeptide synthesis or expression of genetically engineered bacteria, and the product is high in purity and strong in activity.

The antibacterial peptide is more than one of myristoyl hexapeptide-5, myristoyl hexapeptide-23, tetrapeptide-1, human α -defensin, human β -defensin or human theta-defensin, and the mass percentage of the antibacterial peptide in the composition is 0.005-10%.

Azelaic acid is commonly called as azelaic acid, is a naturally-existing saturated dicarboxylic acid, can directly inhibit and kill bacteria on the surface of skin and in hair follicles, eliminates pathogens, can competitively inhibit the biochemical reaction process of producing dihydrotestosterone, has the functions of reducing excessive skin grease induced by the dihydrotestosterone factor and inhibiting the generation of active oxygen free radicals, is beneficial to resisting inflammation, reducing the synthesis of filamentous keratin and preventing the hyperkeratosis of the hair follicles. However, azelaic acid has the disadvantages of low solubility, high melting point, instability and the like, and the composition wraps azelaic acid by adopting a biological nanotechnology, so that the stability of azelaic acid is improved, the solubility of azelaic acid is increased, the absorption capacity of skin to azelaic acid is enhanced, the composition has a certain slow release effect, the bioavailability of azelaic acid is greatly improved, and the irritation of azelaic acid to skin is reduced.

The coating material of the nano-coated azelaic acid is lecithin or cyclodextrin, and the mass percentage of the nano-coated azelaic acid in the composition is 5-15%.

The glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide can regulate the immune function of skin cells by inhibiting a main channel of inflammation generation, has extremely strong anti-allergic activity, can rapidly remove free radicals, reduce wrinkles, fade color spots, combine with heavy metal, play a role in skin detoxification and reduce the sensitization of toxic components, and has the mass percentage of 5-20 percent in the composition.

Preferably, the acne-removing composition consists of the following components in percentage by mass:

the acne-removing composition is water-soluble, and can be applied to cosmetics, particularly cream, essence, emulsion or gel;

the addition amount of the acne-removing composition in the cosmetic is 0.5-3.0% (W/W).

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages and effects:

the acne-removing composition disclosed by the invention achieves the effects of quickly inhibiting inflammation, sterilizing, controlling oil and removing cutin through the synergistic effect of the five effective components, comprehensively and effectively suppresses acne, has a safe and efficient acne-removing effect, is composed of natural active substances, and has no side effect.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a graph showing the effect of a closed acne patient after using the acne-removing essence of the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a graph of the effect of patients with open pox after using the acne-removing lotion of the invention.

Fig. 3 is a graph of the effect of the acne-removing gel of the invention on a large range of facial acne patients.

Fig. 4 is a hematoxylin and eosin stained section view of the effect of the acne-removing composition of the invention on the morphology of the sebaceous gland plaques of the mice.

Fig. 5 is a graph of the therapeutic effect of the anti-acne composition of the present invention on mouse ear inflammation; wherein, the upper row is a mouse ear inflammation model diagram; the lower row is a toluidine blue stained section.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples and drawings, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

Example 1

The aqueous solution containing the acne-removing composition is prepared by the following steps:

taking 50ml of distilled water, sequentially and respectively adding 1 g of malic acid, 0.0001 g of myristoyl hexapeptide-5, 10 g of filtrate of the fermentation product of the tectorial membrane yeast (purchased from Tokyo (Shanghai) Biotech Co., Ltd.), 1 g of lecithin-coated nano-coated azelaic acid (purchased from Purui biological medicine technology Co., Ltd.) and 1 g of glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronic acid into the distilled water, finally adding the distilled water to 100 g, and passing through a 0.2 mu m membrane to obtain an aqueous solution containing the acne-removing composition, wherein the mass fraction of the composition is 13.001%.

Example 2

taking 500ml of distilled water, sequentially and respectively adding 20 g of glycolic acid, 30 g of lactic acid, 15 g of myristoyl hexapeptide-23, 15 g of tetrapeptide-1, 250 g of membrane-covered yeast fermentation product filtrate, 50 g of cyclodextrin-coated nano-coated azelaic acid (purchased from Murray biological medicine technology Co., Ltd.) and 50 g of monoglucuronic acid glycyrrhetinic acid into the distilled water, finally supplementing the distilled water to 1000 g, and passing through a 0.2 mu m membrane to obtain an aqueous solution containing the acne-removing composition, wherein the mass fraction of the composition is 43%.

Example 3

taking 250ml of distilled water, sequentially and respectively adding 10 g of citric acid, 10 g of mandelic acid, 5 g of human α -defensin, 75 g of membrane-coated yeast fermentation product filtrate, 15 g of lecithin-coated nano-coated azelaic acid and 10 g of monoglucuronic acid glycyrrhetinic acid into the distilled water, finally supplementing the distilled water to 500 g, and passing through a 0.2 mu m membrane to obtain the aqueous solution containing the acne-removing composition, wherein the mass fraction of the composition is 25%.

Example 4

taking 500ml of distilled water, sequentially and respectively adding 15 g of citric acid, 20 g of mandelic acid, 1.5 g of myristoyl hexapeptide-5, 2 g of myristoyl hexapeptide-23, 150 g of membrane-covered yeast fermentation product filtrate, 25 g of lecithin-coated nano-coated azelaic acid and 25 g of monoglucuronic acid glycyrrhetinic acid into the distilled water, finally supplementing the distilled water to 1000 g, and passing through a 0.2 mu m membrane to obtain an aqueous solution containing the acne-removing composition, wherein the mass fraction of the composition is 23.85%.

Example 5

and (2) adding 5 g of glycolic acid, 7.5 g of lactic acid, 4.5 g of tartaric acid, 0.5 g of myristoyl hexapeptide-5, 2 g of myristoyl hexapeptide-23, 1 g of tetrapeptide-1, 200 g of membrane-coated yeast fermentation product filtrate, 20 g of cyclodextrin-coated nano-coated azelaic acid and 50 g of glycyrrhetinic acid monogluconate to 500ml of distilled water in sequence respectively, and adding distilled water to 1000 g to pass through a 0.2-micron membrane to obtain an aqueous solution containing the acne-removing composition, wherein the mass fraction of the composition is 29.05%.

Example 6

Preparation of acne removing essence

Phase A: 6 percent of glyceryl stearate (accounting for the total mass of the acne removing essence raw materials; the same below), 0.5 percent of polydimethylsiloxane, 2 percent of hard alcohol, 4 percent of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 2 percent of octyl stearate and 0.5 percent of linoleic acid.

Phase B: laver polysaccharide 0.1%, water soluble pearl powder 0.2%, allantoin 0.5%, VB₆2%, aloe juice 5%, sorbitol 3.25%, xanthan gum 0.05%, and the balance of deionized water (100%).

And C phase: 0.3% of polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, 0.8% of phenoxyethanol/ethylhexyl glycerol and 0.1% of VA palmitate.

Phase D: the aqueous solution of the acne-removing composition of example 1 is 5% (the content of the composition in essence is 0.65% W/W).

The process comprises the following steps: heating phase A and phase B to 75 deg.C respectively, adding phase B into phase A under stirring, homogenizing for 3min, stirring, and cooling. Sequentially adding the components of the phase C into the A, B phase mixture at room temperature, finally adding the phase D, stirring for 3min, adjusting the pH value to 5.5 with sodium hydroxide, homogenizing and mixing uniformly to obtain the functional cosmetic acne-removing essence for removing acne.

Example 7

Preparation of acne-removing lotion

Phase A: 10 percent of butanediol (accounting for the total mass of the acne removing lotion raw materials; the same below), 5 percent of glycerin and 0.05 percent of hyaluronic acid.

Phase B: camellia oil 13%, egg oil 0.1%, shea butter 2%, lecithin 2.5%, 1.5% methyl glucoside sesquistearate-E0-20 (SSE20), 1% methyl glucoside sesquistearate (SS).

And C phase: mixing phase A and phase B, adding 2% carbomer, and homogenizing.

Phase D: the aqueous solution of the acne-removing composition of example 2 (the content of the composition in the emulsion is 2.15% W/W), 0.05% of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.05% of 1, 2-hexanediol and the balance of deionized water (to make up 100%).

The process comprises the following steps: mixing butanediol, glycerol and hyaluronic acid, heating to 70-90 deg.C, homogenizing for 3-7min, and keeping the temperature for 30-60min to obtain phase A mixed solution; mixing camellia oil, chicken seed oil, shea butter, lecithin, methyl glucoside sesquistearate-E0-20 (SSE20) and methyl glucoside sesquistearate, heating to 70-90 ℃, stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain a B-phase mixed solution, adding the B-phase mixed solution and carbomer into the A-phase mixed solution under the condition of stirring, and stirring and homogenizing for 5-15min to obtain a C-phase mixed solution; uniformly mixing the aqueous solution of the acne-removing composition obtained in the example 2, p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1, 2-hexanediol at normal temperature to obtain a D-phase mixed solution; and (3) when the temperature of the phase C is reduced to below 40 ℃, adding the phase D mixed solution into the phase C, vacuumizing, stirring and homogenizing for 5-15min, and filtering and discharging to obtain the acne-removing emulsion.

Example 8

Preparation of acne-removing lotion

Phase A: 3% of squalane (the percentage of the total mass of the acne-removing emulsion raw material; the same below), 3% of wheat germ oil, 1% of cetearyl glucoside, 2% of isopropyl myristate, 1% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 2% of octyl methoxycinnamate and 2% of cetearyl alcohol.

Phase B: 5% of glycerin, 4% of sorbitol, 6% of propylene glycol, 2% of xanthan gum and water (100% of the total).

And C phase: mixing the A phase and the B phase.

Phase D: the aqueous solution of the acne removing composition of example 5 is 10% (the content of the composition in the emulsion is 2.9% W/W).

The process comprises the following steps: weighing squalane, wheat germ oil, cetearyl glucoside, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl methoxycinnamate and cetearyl alcohol in a first reactor, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃ to obtain phase A, and keeping the temperature for later use. And weighing glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, xanthan gum and water in a second reactor, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, and keeping the temperature and homogenizing for 5-10min to obtain a phase B. Slowly adding the phase A into the homogenized phase B, and stirring and homogenizing at 85-90 ℃ for 5-10 minutes to obtain a phase C. And cooling the phase C to 40 ℃, adding the aqueous solution of the acne-removing composition obtained in the example 5, uniformly stirring, and cooling to obtain the acne-removing cream.

Example 9

Preparation of acne removing gel

Phase A: 0.2 percent of methyl hydroxybenzoate (accounting for the total mass of the acne-removing gel raw material; the same below), 0.1 percent of EDTA-2Na0, 0.15 percent of allantoin, 1.2 percent of hydroxyethyl acrylate (and) sodium dimethyl sulphoxide copolymer, 5 percent of 1.3-butanediol, 4 percent of gum arabic (and) xanthan gum and 0.02 percent of sodium hyaluronate.

Phase B: 6% of the aqueous anti-acne composition of example 4 (the content of the composition in the gel is 1.43% W/W), 0.5% of silanediol salicylate, 0.78% of German Shumexyl K3500.2%, and the balance of deionized water (100% for full).

The process comprises the following steps: mixing and stirring the phase A, heating to 80-85 ℃, homogenizing and stirring for 5-15min, cooling, adding the mixed raw materials in the phase B when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 ℃, stirring uniformly again, and cooling to normal temperature to obtain the acne-removing gel.

Example 10

The acne-removing essence obtained in example 6 was tested, and the participants were volunteers of acne patients who had significant acne and acne on their faces, and the skin was characterized by oily skin and no allergic history of skin disease, and met the volunteer selection criteria of the subjects. The trial was performed for a total of 368 patients between 18-30 years of age, 225 male patients and 143 female patients.

The test method comprises the following steps: after cleaning the skin, a proper amount of the skin care liquid is applied to the cleaned affected part 2 times a day, each time in the morning and at night, the trial period is 3 weeks, and the affected part is tracked and photographed every two days.

The test results are shown in table 1: 154 effective men, 35 effective men and 36 ineffective women, 103 effective women, 20 effective women and 20 ineffective women, wherein the total effective persons reach 312 persons, and the total effective rate is close to 85%.

From the onset time, the effective rate reaches 31% in one week, the effective rate reaches 80% in two weeks, the tested population does not have skin discomfort symptoms, and meanwhile, the test result shows that the product has obvious effects on acne mark fading, pore shrinkage and oil control.

A19-year-old male patient with acne has sporadically distributed open acne and closed acne on face. The face is cleaned in the morning and evening, the acne closing essence of the embodiment 6 is smeared, the closed acne is reduced and disappeared after two days, the white head at the position of the open acne is disappeared and is quickly closed, and the acne removing essence is proved to have obvious curative effects on the open acne and the closed brushing (as shown in figure 1).

Table 1 summary of the clinical experiments of the acne-removing essence

Example 11

A23 year old female with acne has open acne in the upper part of the nose, accompanied by red swelling, inflammation and pustule. After the acne-removing lotion of example 7 is used, the affected part is smeared with the acne-removing lotion once after the face is cleaned in the morning and evening, and after continuous trial for 4 days, symptoms such as open acne, red swelling, pustule and the like are completely disappeared without pockmarks and pockmarks, which proves that the acne-removing lotion has a remarkable effect on whelk and inflammation caused by whelk, and has the effect of removing the pockmarks and the pockmarks (as shown in fig. 2).

Example 12

A male patient with acne is 25 years old, a female patient with acne is 21 years old, and both patients have regional acne. The male patient had pockmarks left around the mouth. The female patient has accumulated pox near the cheekbones, and is accompanied with red swelling and inflammation.

After two persons wash the face in the morning and evening each day, the acne removing gel of the embodiment 9 is locally smeared, after three weeks of continuous use, local accumulated acnes of two patients basically disappear, the pit of a male patient is partially repaired, the inflammation phenomenon of a female patient completely disappears, and the skin color is brightened to a certain degree, so that the acne removing gel is proved to have an obvious inhibiting effect on a large-range acne group and simultaneously has a certain function of repairing the pit and brightening the skin color (as shown in figure 3).

Example 13

The influence of the acne-removing composition on the tissue morphology of sebaceous gland plaques of golden hamster is observed (animal oil control experiment), and the intervention effect of the acne-removing composition on sebaceous gland secretion is discussed.

Method and grouping: sebaceous gland plaques of the back of golden hamster were selected as animal models, and 40 golden hamster were randomly divided into 8 groups of saline (control), 5 × diluent, 10 × diluent, 50 × diluent, and 100 × diluent in the composition aqueous solution of example 3. The above solutions were applied to sebaceous gland plaques for 20 days. The maximum transverse Diameter (DT) and the maximum longitudinal Diameter (DL) of the sebaceous gland plaques on the right back side are measured by a vernier caliper, and the microstructure of the sebaceous gland plaques is observed by a light microscope.

The results show that: compared with a control group, the acne removing composition provided by the invention enables the back sebaceous gland patch area of the hamster to be obviously reduced (P < 0.05) (Table 2) and the back sebaceous gland patch thickness to be obviously thinned (P < 0.05) (Table 3).

Under a light microscope, the thickness of sebaceous glands of rats in an experimental group is small and is 1-2 layers, the sebaceous glands are loosely arranged, the glandular lobes are small, and the number of liquefied vesicles is large. In the control group, the sebaceous glands were arranged more tightly and more thickly, and some of the glands were large and full (FIG. 4). The result shows that the acne-removing composition has the function of obviously inhibiting sebum secretion.

TABLE 2 comparison of dorsal sebaceous gland plaque area of five groups of hamster

mm²

Group of	Example/n	Before treatment	After treatment
				5X Diluent	8	20.36±3.85	11.66±2.37
10X Diluent	8	25.25±4.23	13.53±1.85
				50X Diluent	8	22.37±2.51	12.26±3.42
100X Diluent	8	23.81±4.01	15.34±1.56
				Physiological saline (control group)	8	21.47±3.88	22.04±2.52

TABLE 3 comparison of thickness of sebaceous gland plaques in the backs of five groups of hamster

Group of	Example/n	Is thick and thick	In	Thin sheet
					5X Diluent	8	0	2	6
10X Diluent	8	0	1	7
					50X Diluent	8	1	3	4
100X Diluent	8	2	5	1
					Physiological saline (control group)	8	6	1	1

Note: thickness: the number of overlapping gland leaves is more than or equal to 4; the method comprises the following steps: the number of overlapping gland leaves is more than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 3; low: the number of overlapping gland leaves is less than or equal to 1

Example 14

Inflammation inhibition animal experiment

The method comprises the following steps: normal mice were treated with xylene for 3 days to cause ear swelling, and then treated with 10 × diluted solution of the aqueous solution of the acne-removing composition in example 4 to examine the anti-inflammatory effect of the acne-removing composition of the present invention.

As shown in fig. 5, the swelling of the ears of the mice was reduced and eliminated after 3-5 days of treatment with the aqueous solution of the anti-acne composition of example 4. The acne-removing composition has a remarkable inhibiting effect on mouse ear swelling caused by xylene and has an obvious anti-inflammatory effect.

The above embodiments are preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and any other changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications which do not depart from the spirit and principle of the present invention should be construed as equivalents thereof, and all such changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications are intended to be included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. An acne-removing composition is characterized by comprising a tectorial membrane yeast fermentation product filtrate, tartaric acid, antibacterial peptide, nano-encapsulated azelaic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide.

2. The acne-removing composition according to claim 1, wherein: the mass percentage of the filtrate of the fermentation product of the tectorial membrane yeast in the acne-removing composition is 50-80%.

3. The acne-removing composition according to claim 1, wherein: the fruit acid is more than one of malic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or mandelic acid, and the mass percent of the fruit acid in the composition is 5-20%.

4. The acne-removing composition according to claim 1, wherein the antibacterial peptide is one or more of myristoyl hexapeptide-5, myristoyl hexapeptide-23, tetrapeptide-1, human α -defensin, human β -defensin or human theta-defensin, and the mass percent of the antibacterial peptide in the composition is 0.005-10%.

5. The acne-removing composition according to claim 1, wherein: the coating material of the nano-coated azelaic acid is lecithin or cyclodextrin, and the mass percentage of the nano-coated azelaic acid in the composition is 5-15%.

6. The acne-removing composition according to claim 1, wherein: the glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide accounts for 5-20% of the composition by mass.

7. The acne-removing composition according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:

8. use of the acne-removing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in cosmetics.

9. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that: the addition amount of the acne-removing composition in the cosmetics is 0.5-3.0% (W/W).

10. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that: the cosmetic is cream, essence, lotion or gel.