CN111249184B - Transparent microbead essence containing water-soluble and fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide simultaneously - Google Patents
Transparent microbead essence containing water-soluble and fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide simultaneously Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
Abstract
The invention discloses a transparent microbead essence containing water-soluble and fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide at the same time, which comprises the following substances in percentage by mass: 0.5 to 5.0 percent of vegetable fat, 0.0001 to 0.1 percent of fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, 0.0001 to 0.9 percent of water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, 0.15 to 0.3 percent of water-phase thickening agent, 0 to 0.3 percent of pH regulator, 2.0 to 15.0 percent of humectant and the balance of deionized water. The micro-bead essence provided by the invention dissolves fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide in vegetable oil, is uniformly and stably suspended in the transparent aqueous essence in an oil drop form, does not contain an emulsifier, a solubilizer and a synthetic silicone oil component, and effectively solves the technical problem that the fat-soluble biological polypeptide cannot be directly added into the transparent aqueous essence because of insolubility in water. The microbead essence disclosed by the invention is transparent and attractive in appearance, clear in texture and clear and moist in skin feel, and meanwhile, the fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide and the water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide are reasonably matched and synergized, so that the microbead essence has a better anti-wrinkle effect.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a micro-bead essence which contains water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide and fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, stably suspends plant oil drops, and is transparent and attractive in appearance.
Background
Various physiological processes in the human body are almost all regulated by polypeptides or proteins consisting of specific amino acid sequences, so that biological polypeptides become a brand new direction and thought for cosmetic development and application, and the functions are increasingly subdivided, such as: anti-wrinkle, whitening, repairing, etc. The skin is a natural barrier of the human body against external environmental insults, and has a certain protective effect against external stimuli, which is benefited by the protective effect of the stratum corneum of the skin. But also keeps most of the nutrients of the cosmetics on the surface of the skin, the nutrients need to penetrate through the cell membrane of the stratum corneum to enter the skin, and only a small amount of macromolecules and fat-soluble substances can be absorbed through pores and sweat pores. The bioactive cosmetic polypeptide can easily penetrate through the gaps of the stratum corneum and enter the stratum corneum to play a role.
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, which is called micro-collagen, is used as a signal peptide, is used for synthesizing, repairing and reconstructing extracellular matrix by acting on skin fibroblasts, effectively promoting the proliferation of collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastic fibers in the skin, improving the water content of the skin, increasing the thickness of the skin, eliminating static wrinkles, and enhancing the tightness and glossiness of the skin. The combination with fat-soluble palmitic acid enhances skin penetration, but is limited by the fat solubility and cannot be directly added into transparent water aqua cosmetics.
Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a bioactive polypeptide composed of 6 amino acids through dehydration condensation, and can reduce muscle contraction by inhibiting release of nerve conduction factor acetylcholine, thereby reducing generation of dynamic lines and expression lines. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, and the solubility in water is 10mg/mL.
A cosmetic product is a mixture of various components, the properties of which vary more or less from the development stage, the production stage, until the distribution and the actual use by the consumer. Therefore, the stability of cosmetics is an important issue for the quality assurance of cosmetics, which is closely related to the assurance of the function of cosmetics, the degree of acceptance of products by consumers, and the economic benefit of manufacturers. Before the "use date", the cosmetic should ensure no significant change in appearance, odor, etc.
The appearance of cosmetics is closely related to the consumption psychology of cosmetics, and has an important influence on the development and production of cosmetics. Along with the improvement of income level of Chinese consumers, the 'high end' becomes the hottest keyword of the Chinese cosmetic market, the demand of the consumers on high-quality products is continuously improved, not only the product efficacy is emphasized, but also the product appearance with clear texture is more and more favored by more consumers. The transparent appearance brings fresh touch feeling, can enter the skin more quickly, and brings comfortable and pleasant use feeling to consumers.
The particle suspension essence is a cosmetic formulation which is loved and sought by consumers due to the advantages of novel and unique appearance, variable shell shape, high visual perception, active ingredient wrapping and the like. With the continuous optimization of the preparation technology of the particles, the suspended particles are more diversified in form, and the shell of the particles is gradually softened, so that the particles are easily crushed when being smeared and used, and a better use feeling is obtained. But the shell with softer hardness has poor stability and is easy to crush, and the control of the appearance quality of the inner material in the production link and the transportation link of the product is directly influenced; in addition, when the particles are applied, the shell of the particles is poor in compatibility with skin, the absorption time is long, and even the particles are not absorbed by the skin, so that the use feeling of the product is directly influenced.
CN106880581A discloses a stock solution formula with suspended oil bead particles and a process thereof, which comprises 5 to 8 percent of propylene glycol, 2 to 5 percent of glycerol, 2 to 3 percent of glyceryl polyether-26, 0.1 to 0.2 percent of transparent xanthan gum, 0.05 to 0.1 percent of gellan gum, 0.1 to 0.2 percent of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1 to 0.2 percent of hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, 1 to 2 percent of amino acid humectant, 0.3 to 0.5 percent of antioxidant, 3 to 5 percent of viscosity regulator, 0.5 to 1 percent of snail secretion filtrate extract, 1 to 2 percent of tremella extract, 0.3 to 0.5 percent of carboxymethyl beta-dextran sodium, 1 to 2 percent of trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and 70.3 to 83.55 percent of deionized water.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a micro-bead essence which stably suspends plant oil drops, contains water-soluble and fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptides, has a transparent and attractive appearance and has a better anti-wrinkle effect, aiming at the problem that fat-soluble biological polypeptides cannot be directly added in the essence of a transparent water aqua.
Aiming at the purposes, the microbead essence comprises the following substances in percentage by mass:
0.5 to 5.0 percent of vegetable fat, 0.0001 to 0.1 percent of fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, 0.0001 to 0.9 percent of water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, 0.15 to 0.3 percent of water-phase thickening agent, 0 to 0.3 percent of pH regulator, 2.0 to 15.0 percent of humectant and the balance of deionized water.
The transparent microbead essence disclosed by the invention preferably comprises the following substances in percentage by mass:
1.0 to 3.3 percent of vegetable oil, 0.01 to 0.08 percent of fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, 0.1 to 0.65 percent of water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, 0.20 to 0.27 percent of water phase thickening agent, 0.03 to 0.15 percent of pH regulator, 5.0 to 10.0 percent of humectant and the balance of deionized water.
The vegetable oil is one or more of blumea oil, malus agar-agar, grapeseed oil and olive fruit oil, preferably one or more of grapeseed oil and olive fruit oil.
The water phase thickener is a combination of at least two of xanthan gum, gellan gum, carbomer and acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer; preferably a combination of carbomer and xanthan gum, or a combination of gellan gum and an acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer.
The fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide is palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, and the water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide is acetyl hexapeptide-8.
The pH regulator is at least one of potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and arginine.
The humectant is more than two of glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, and sodium hyaluronate.
The preparation method of the microbead essence comprises the following steps: adding a water phase thickening agent, a pH regulator, a humectant and water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide into deionized water, and fully dissolving to prepare a water phase; fully dissolving fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide in vegetable oil to prepare an oil phase; and (3) uniformly dispersing the oil phase into the water phase in an oil bead form to prepare the transparent micro-bead essence.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the invention provides transparent microbead essence containing water-soluble and fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, which is characterized in that the system is a novel water-oil two-phase uniform dispersion system provided after the advantages of refreshing skin feel of a water-based system and good skin compatibility of an oil-based system are combined. The fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is dissolved in vegetable oil and is uniformly and stably dispersed and suspended in the water-based transparent anti-wrinkle essence in an oil drop form, so that the technical problem that the fat-soluble biological polypeptide palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 cannot be directly added into the transparent aqueous essence due to the restriction of water insolubility is effectively solved.
2. In the transparent microbead essence, the fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and the water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide acetyl hexapeptide-8 are scientifically matched, so that the synergistic effect is achieved, and the transparent microbead essence has a better anti-wrinkle effect.
3. The transparent micro-bead essence disclosed by the invention breaks through the existing emulsification, solubilization and particle wrapping technologies, avoids the adverse stimulation of an emulsifier, a solubilizer and a chemical surfactant to skin, selects natural vegetable oil to replace synthetic silicone oil to prepare a micro-bead matrix, is not wrapped by a shell, is glittering and translucent in appearance, clear and moist in skin feel when in use, is good in stability, and has no unstable phenomena such as layering, turbidity and the like through six-month stability investigation under accelerated conditions such as 4 ℃, 45 ℃, heat freezing circulation, illumination and the like.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a view showing the appearance of the essence of microbeads according to the present invention.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further described in detail with reference to the following figures and examples, but the scope of the invention is not limited to these examples.
Example 1
Adding 0.09g of gellan gum, 0.06g of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.02g of arginine, 2.0g of glycerol, 2.0g of pentanediol, 0.02g of sodium hyaluronate and 0.1g of acetyl hexapeptide into 94.7g of deionized water for full dissolution to prepare a water phase; adding 0.01g of palmitoyl pentapeptide into 1.0g of malus wallichiana oil for fully dissolving to prepare an oil phase; the oil phase is uniformly dispersed in the water phase in the form of oil beads, and transparent micro-bead essence is prepared (see figure 1).
Example 2
Adding 0.1g of xanthan gum, 0.08g of gellan gum, 3g of butanediol, 2g of hexanediol and 0.2g of acetyl hexapeptide into 93.1g of deionized water for fully dissolving to prepare a water phase; adding 0.02g palmitoyl pentapeptide into 1.5g olive fruit oil, and fully dissolving to prepare an oil phase; and (3) uniformly dispersing the oil phase into the water phase in an oil bead form to prepare the transparent micro-bead essence.
Example 3
Adding 0.12g of xanthan gum, 0.1g of carbomer, 0.1g of triethanolamine, 1.5g of pentanediol, 5g of butanediol, 0.05g of sodium hyaluronate, 1.5g of hexanediol and-8.5 g of acetyl hexapeptide into 88.08g of deionized water for full dissolution to prepare a water phase; adding 0.05g of palmitoyl pentapeptide into 2.5g of olive oil and 0.5g of grape seed oil for sufficient dissolution to prepare an oil phase; and uniformly dispersing the oil phase in the water phase in an oil bead form to prepare the transparent micro-bead essence.
Example 4
Adding 0.12g of carbomer, 0.15g of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.27g of tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane, 3g of glycerol, 7g of propylene glycol, 1.8g of hexanediol and 0.7g of acetyl hexapeptide into 81.86g of deionized water for sufficient dissolution to prepare an aqueous phase; adding 0.1g of palmitoyl pentapeptide into 5g of grape seed oil, and fully dissolving to prepare an oil phase; and (3) uniformly dispersing the oil phase into the water phase in an oil bead form to prepare the transparent micro-bead essence.
In order to determine the composition of the raw materials of the present invention, the inventors respectively prepared the raw materials in the mass percentage composition in table 1 into essences, and examined the stability thereof, and the results are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1 stability test results (unit: wt%)
As can be seen from table 1, in sample 1, vegetable fat is not added, and when the addition amount of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is only 0.001%, the palmitoyl pentapeptide cannot be directly and stably dissolved in the transparent essence; in sample 2, 0.001% of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is dissolved in 0.4% of argy wormwood leaf oil to form an oil phase, and the oil phase is dispersed and suspended in the transparent essence in the form of oil drops, but the oil drops float upwards under the heating conditions of normal temperature and 45 ℃ due to the low content of the oil phase, and do not pass the stability test of 6 months; in sample 3, 0.001% of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is dissolved in 0.5% of argy wormwood leaf oil to form an oil phase, the oil phase is dispersed and suspended in transparent essence in the form of oil drops, and the obtained sample passes a 6-month stability test; in sample 4, 0.05% of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is dissolved in 3.0% of olive oil to form an oil phase, the oil phase is dispersed and suspended in a transparent essence in the form of oil drops, and the obtained sample passes a 6-month stability test; in the sample 5, 0.5% of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is dissolved in 5% of grape seed oil to form an oil phase, the oil phase is dispersed and suspended in transparent essence in the form of oil drops, and the obtained sample passes a stability test for 6 months; in sample 6, 0.5% palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is dissolved in 5.5% grape seed oil to form an oil phase, and the oil phase is dispersed and suspended in the transparent essence in the form of oil drops, wherein the oil drops aggregate and float to be layered under the heating conditions of normal temperature and 45 ℃ due to the overhigh content of the oil phase, and do not pass the stability test for 6 months.
The inventors further performed stability tests on the transparent microbead essence prepared in examples 1 to 4, and specific test results are shown in table 2.
Table 2 cosmetic stability test results of examples 1 to 4
| Sample(s) | pH value | Whether or not to be transparent | Normal temperature for 6 months | 45 deg.C, 6 months |
| Example 1 | 6.7 | Is that | Stabilization | Stabilization |
| Example 2 | 6.2 | Is that | Stabilization | Stabilization |
| Example 3 | 5.9 | Is that | Stabilization | Stabilization |
| Example 4 | 5.7 | Is that | Stabilization | Stabilization |
As can be seen from Table 2, the cosmetics prepared in examples 1 to 4 of the present invention were all transparent and stable.
The inventor further adds no palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and olive fruit oil in the formula of the transparent microbead essence in example 3 to obtain a comparative sample, and performs an efficacy comparative test with the transparent microbead essence in example 3, wherein the specific test is as follows:
the test purpose is as follows: the skin of the test subjects were each tested for improvement of the skin of the test subjects using the clear bead serum of example 3 and the comparative sample.
Test object(s): volunteers of 34-60 years old who meet test conditions
The number of test persons: 60 names
And (3) testing period: for 56 days
The test method comprises the following steps: the subjects were randomly divided into two groups of 30 individuals, one group was applied with the clear bead serum of example 3, and the other group was applied with the control sample. The skin of the same part of the volunteer was evaluated before and after application, respectively.
The using method comprises the following steps: after cleaning the face in the morning and evening every day, the product is uniformly smeared on the face and the periphery of eyes by taking a dime size test product, and is gently massaged until the product is absorbed.
The evaluation method comprises the following steps: moisture retention was measured using a skin moisture tester Corneometer CM825 (CK corporation, germany); the wrinkle reduction effect was tested using a human skin rapid optical imaging system (PRIMOS, germany); sa: average depth of wrinkles; the skin elasticity was measured using a skin elasticity tester MPA580 (Courage + Khazaka Co., germany).
The test data are the average values of 30 subjects, and the test data are shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3
The test data in table 3 show that after 56 days of use, the transparent microbead essence in example 3 and the comparative sample can improve the water content of the stratum corneum of the skin, and the improvement rate of the water content of the stratum corneum of the transparent microbead essence in example 3 is 39.76%, which is obviously higher than that of the comparative sample by 6.43%; example 3 the facial wrinkle area of the transparent microbead essence is 19.7%, which is obviously reduced compared with 23.5% of the wrinkle area of the comparative sample; example 3 the skin elasticity value of the clear microbead serum was 0.94, which is significantly higher than the R2 value of the comparative sample, which is 0.79. Therefore, the transparent micro-bead essence in the embodiment 3 has a better trial effect, and the facial skin is firm and has obvious anti-wrinkle effect.
Claims (5)
1. A transparent microbead essence containing water-soluble and fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptides is characterized by comprising the following substances in percentage by mass:
0.5 to 5.0 percent of vegetable fat, 0.0001 to 0.1 percent of fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, 0.0001 to 0.9 percent of water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, 0.15 to 0.3 percent of water-phase thickening agent, 0.02 to 0.3 percent of pH regulator, 2.0 to 15.0 percent of humectant and the balance of deionized water;
the vegetable oil is any one or more of blumea oil, malus agar, grape seed oil and olive oil;
the water phase thickener is a combination of at least two of xanthan gum, gellan gum, carbomer and acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer;
the fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide is palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, and the water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide is acetyl hexapeptide-8;
the humectant is more than two of glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol and sodium hyaluronate;
the preparation method of the microbead essence comprises the following steps: adding a water phase thickening agent, a pH regulator, a humectant and water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide into deionized water, and fully dissolving to prepare a water phase; fully dissolving fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide in vegetable oil to prepare an oil phase; and uniformly dispersing the oil phase in the water phase in an oil bead form to prepare the transparent micro-bead essence.
2. The transparent microbead essence containing water-soluble and fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide simultaneously as claimed in claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following substances in percentage by mass:
1.0 to 3.3 percent of vegetable oil, 0.01 to 0.08 percent of fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, 0.1 to 0.65 percent of water-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide, 0.20 to 0.27 percent of water phase thickening agent, 0.03 to 0.15 percent of pH regulator, 5.0 to 10.0 percent of humectant and the balance of deionized water.
3. The transparent microbead essence containing water-soluble and fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide simultaneously as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein: the vegetable oil is any one or a mixture of grape seed oil and olive fruit oil.
4. The transparent microbead essence containing water-soluble and fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide simultaneously as claimed in claim 1 or 2, which is characterized in that: the water phase thickener is a combination of carbomer and xanthan gum or a combination of gellan gum and acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer.
5. The transparent microbead essence containing water-soluble and fat-soluble anti-wrinkle polypeptide simultaneously as claimed in claim 1 or 2, which is characterized in that: the pH regulator is at least one of potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and arginine.
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| CN112870092A (en) * | 2021-01-29 | 2021-06-01 | 广州集妍化妆品科技有限公司 | Two-phase essence and preparation method thereof |
| CN114288194B (en) * | 2021-12-30 | 2024-03-22 | 彭氏(惠州)实业发展有限公司 | Double-layer skin care essence without deionized water and preparation method thereof |
| CN115998626A (en) * | 2022-11-15 | 2023-04-25 | 华熙生物科技股份有限公司 | Microbead for cosmetics and its application |
| CN116421501A (en) * | 2023-03-23 | 2023-07-14 | 深圳市护家科技有限公司 | Micro-essence composition and preparation method thereof |
| CN117398322A (en) * | 2023-12-13 | 2024-01-16 | 广州悦瑞化妆品有限公司 | Microbead essence and preparation method thereof |
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