CN110983692A - Silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process - Google Patents
Silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process Download PDFInfo
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- CN110983692A CN110983692A CN201911413637.2A CN201911413637A CN110983692A CN 110983692 A CN110983692 A CN 110983692A CN 201911413637 A CN201911413637 A CN 201911413637A CN 110983692 A CN110983692 A CN 110983692A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/32—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of open-width materials backwards and forwards between beaming rollers during treatment; Jiggers
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B15/00—Removing liquids, gases or vapours from textile materials in association with treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B23/00—Component parts, details, or accessories of apparatus or machines, specially adapted for the treating of textile materials, not restricted to a particular kind of apparatus, provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B21/00
- D06B23/04—Carriers or supports for textile materials to be treated
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/38—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
- D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
- D06P3/10—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups using reactive dyes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
- D06P3/8209—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing amide groups
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
- D06P3/8219—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and amide groups
Abstract
A silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process belongs to the technical field of jig dyeing and dyeing. The method comprises the following steps: 1) adding a dye solution into the dye vat, and heating the dye solution to 55-65 ℃; 2) winding silk fabric to a jig dyeing machine; 3) setting the total length of the silk fabric as S, the vehicle speed as a and the total dyeing track number as b; in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 75-85% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 75-85% a; 4) and (5) discharging the waste dye liquor after dyeing is finished, and washing and drying the fabric to obtain the fabric. The silk fabric obtained by the silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process is uniformly dyed and has uniform hand feeling, the problem of chromatic aberration of head and tail is solved, and the silk fabric dyed uniformly can be obtained by one-time jig dyeing without subsequent color supplementation.
Description
Technical Field
A silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process belongs to the technical field of jig dyeing and dyeing.
Background
The open width jig dyeing of the fabric is a dyeing process with long history and is very suitable for satin-type fabrics which are easy to wrinkle. The fabric suitable for jig dyeing has a plurality of varieties, such as cotton, terylene, real silk and blended or interwoven woven fabrics. The fabric is especially suitable for jig dyeing of cotton/brocade, silk and satin easy-to-wrinkle fabrics. The jig dyeing machine can be used for processes such as desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing and washing.
The applicant found the following problems in the study: in the prior art, in order to improve the production efficiency and reduce the wastewater discharge amount, a plurality of fabrics (1 fabric is about 80-100 meters) are continuously sewn together to form a continuous fabric with a longer length, and then the fabric is subjected to jig dyeing by a jig dyeing machine. However, the problem of head-tail color difference is easy to occur in the existing jig dyeing process, and the head-tail color difference is more serious along with the increase of the jig diameter. The head-tail color difference refers to the inconsistent warp-wise coloring of the fabric, and comprises the color difference between the head and the tail of the cloth roll and the color difference between the head and the tail and the middle part of the cloth roll. The existing industrial production mode is that most of the standard sample and the fabric are provided for customers, and then the enterprise dyes according to the standard sample, if the problems of head-tail color difference and inconsistent head-tail hand feeling occur, the enterprise needs to discount the problem fabric for compensation, and even the problem that the customers refuse to receive goods can occur.
At present, after the problem of head-tail color difference occurs, the color difference fabric is mostly cut off, and is re-dyed by a jig dyeing machine for carrying out jig dyeing and color complementing again; according to the remediation method for secondary jig dyeing and color complementing, the color difference fabric has a certain color, and the dye bath ratio and the process parameters are required to be redesigned when the color difference fabric is subjected to secondary jig dyeing and color complementing, so that the discharge of waste water is increased, the dye is wasted, the time and the labor are wasted, the color complementing difficulty is high, and the color complementing success is difficult.
Exist among the prior art with roller heating, accuse temperature to reduce the difference in temperature between roller and the dye liquor, alleviate the problem of end to end colour difference, but when surface fabric length is longer (surpass 1000 meters), roll up when footpath is too big, the surface fabric reaches 10~20cm around thickness on the roller, be close to the roller and keep away from and there is the difference in temperature again between the surface fabric of roller, this difference in temperature even also can't thoroughly solve through heating the roller. The problem of head-tail color difference relief through a variable-frequency jig dyeing machine in the prior art exists, but the practical effect is not ideal, and the applicant finds that the existing roll shaft moves at a variable speed in the two processes of starting at a speed of 0, achieving a constant speed of a vehicle, and stopping at the speed of 0, so that the problem of uneven dyeing caused by variable speed is solved, and the problem is difficult to completely solve even through the variable-frequency jig dyeing machine. In addition, the two existing solutions require large-scale modification of the jig dyeing machine, even purchase of new jig dyeing equipment, have extremely high cost, and cannot be applied to actual production.
Disclosure of Invention
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is as follows: the process overcomes the defects of the prior art, the silk fabric obtained by the process is uniformly dyed and has uniform hand feeling, the problem of chromatic aberration of the head and the tail is solved, the uniformly dyed silk fabric can be obtained by one-time jig dyeing, and subsequent color supplementation is not needed.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows: the process for dye-rolling and lightening of silk fabric comprises the following steps:
1) adding a dye solution into the dye vat, and heating the dye solution to 55-65 ℃;
2) winding silk fabric to a jig dyeing machine;
3) setting the total length of the silk fabric as S, the vehicle speed as a and the total dyeing track number as b;
in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 75-85% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 75-85% a; the total length S of the silk fabric is less than or equal to 1500 m, the vehicle speed a is 30-95 m/min, and the total number b of jig dyeing tracks is 80-100;
4) and discharging the waste dye liquor, washing the fabric with water, drying, tentering and setting to obtain the fabric.
Preferably, in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 78-82% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 78-82% a.
Preferably, in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 80% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 80% a.
When the total length of the silk fabric is not less than 1000 m and not more than 1500 m, the vehicle speed a is 90-95 m/min, and the total dyeing track number b is 100.
The total length S of the silk fabric is more than or equal to 800 m and less than 1000 m, the vehicle speed a is 80-90 m/min, and the total number b of jig dyeing tracks is 100.
When the total length S of the silk fabric is more than or equal to 500 m and less than 800 m, the vehicle speed a is 50-60 m/min, and the total number b of jig dyeing tracks is 100.
When the total length S of the silk fabric is more than or equal to 300 m and less than 500 m, the vehicle speed a is 40-50 m/min, and the total number b of jig dyeing tracks is 80.
When the total length S of the silk fabric is less than 300 meters, the vehicle speed a is 30-40 meters/minute, and the total number b of jig dyeing tracks is 80 tracks.
The dye solution comprises water, 0.1-20 g/L of reactive dye, 1-5 g/L of anionic surfactant, 25-100 g/L of sodium sulfate and 1.8-4 g/L of sodium carbonate.
The active group of the reactive dye is at least one of a chloro-s-triazine active group and a vinyl sulfone active group. The reactive group of the reactive dye is one or two. Can be a chloro-s-triazine reactive group reactive dye, a vinyl sulfone reactive group reactive dye or a chloro-s-triazine/vinyl sulfone double reactive group reactive dye. Further preferably, the reactive dye is a bis-monochlorotriazine type H dye produced by taiwan permanent light, a tri-active somiflox HF dye produced by japan sumitomo, a mono-monochlorotriazine and vinyl sulfone di-active B dye produced by zhejiang longsheng, a di-active LX dye produced by taiwan permanent light, a mono-fluoros-triazine and a di-vinyl sulfone tri-active cyclo-da type reactive dye produced by hensme.
The invention is described below:
jig dyeing machine includes preceding roller, back roller, dye vat and a plurality of fabric guide roll, and preceding roller and back roller parallel arrangement are directly over the dye vat, and a plurality of fabric guide roll are located the dye vat, and preceding roller, back roller and a plurality of fabric guide roll are parallel arrangement. The front roll shaft and the rear roll shaft are respectively controlled to rotate by a motor. The fabric sequentially winds through the front roll shaft, the plurality of cloth guide rollers and the rear roll shaft. And (3) rolling the fabric from the front roll shaft to the rear roll shaft, rolling the fabric from the rear roll shaft to the front roll shaft, and repeating the processes for dyeing.
One refers to: the fabric is completely rolled from the front roll shaft to the rear roll shaft, or the fabric is completely rolled from the rear roll shaft to the front roll shaft.
Specifically, in each stain: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is rapidly increased from 0 to 75-85% a (within 2 minutes), and the vehicle speed is maintained to be 75-85% a for constant-speed operation; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20% S, the vehicle speed starts to increase, the vehicle speed rapidly increases from 75-85% a to a (within 2 minutes) at a speed of 10 ℃/min, and the vehicle speed is maintained to be a constant speed for running; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 80% S, the vehicle speed starts to decrease, the vehicle speed is rapidly increased from a to 75-85% a (within 2 minutes), and the vehicle speed is maintained to be 75-85% a for constant-speed operation; when the length S is approached, the vehicle speed rapidly drops to 0 (within 2 minutes).
The water washing operation of the step 4) is as follows: washing at 5-25 ℃, washing at 60-80 ℃, soaping at 80-90 ℃, washing at 70-80 ℃ and washing at 30-50 ℃.
The drying operation in the step 4) is as follows: and drying the fabric at 60-100 ℃, and tentering and setting at 100-120 ℃.
Preferably, the anionic surfactant is phosphate anionic surfactant.
The silk fabric is silk fabric; or the real silk yarn is interwoven with any one of cotton, hemp, tencel or viscose yarn; or the real silk in the real silk blended yarn is more than 50% by mass percent; preferably, the real silk blended yarn is formed by blending real silk fibers and at least one of cotton, hemp, tencel and viscose yarn.
Compared with the prior art, the silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process has the beneficial effects that:
1. according to the silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process, the obtained silk fabric is dyed uniformly and consistently, the problem of head-tail color difference is solved, the uniformly dyed silk fabric can be obtained through one-time jig dyeing, and subsequent color supplementation is not needed. The applicant found that the cause of head-to-tail chromatic aberration is due to the following reasons: firstly, due to the structural characteristics of the jig dyeing machine, the fabric close to the cloth roller has a temperature difference with the fabric far from the cloth roller, and the temperature difference is more remarkable along with the increase of the fabric winding diameter. The temperature difference between the inside and the outside easily causes the warp-wise head-to-tail color difference of the fabric. Secondly, the fluctuation of the running speed of the fabric is large, and the starting and braking processes are too long, so that the head, the middle and the tail of the fabric are soaked in the dye liquor for different time, and the adsorption quantity of the dye to the fabric fiber is different. Thirdly, the problem that the hand feeling of the fabrics at the head end and the tail end is inconsistent with that of the fabric at the middle section is that the torque tension of the motor is large when the motor runs from 0 to start; the temperature reduction is faster and the heat preservation effect of the vehicle body is not good because the large shaft is a hollow shaft; the initial concentration of the auxiliary agent is uneven and cannot reach the PH value of the working solution.
In response to the problems identified above, the applicant has devised: when the head and tail two-section fabric is dyed, the speed of the vehicle is reduced to increase the time of the head and tail two-section fabric staying in the dyeing tank, and the problem of head and tail color difference caused by the rising speed and the falling speed of the roller shaft is solved, so that the color yield of the head and tail two-section fabric is improved. And by researching the reactive dye jig dyeing process of the silk fabric, the applicant finds that: although the length of the fabric with head-tail color difference gradually increases along with the increase of the total fabric length (i.e. the increase of the roll diameter), the length of the fabric with head-tail color difference generally accounts for 20% ± 2% of the total fabric length.
By study, the final application designed that in each jig dyeing process: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 75-85% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 75-85% a; therefore, the conventional jig dyeing machine can be used, and the problem of head-tail color difference is solved. The pretreatment auxiliary agent and the dye can fully permeate into the fabric, thereby reducing the defects of inconsistent hand feeling and color difference of dyeing head and tail. The length of the cloth guiding head is lengthened, the opening times of opening a cylinder cover of the jig dyeing machine is reduced, the speed of the vehicle is reduced, the scouring liquid can permeate into the fabric for a longer time, the problem that fabrics at the head end and the tail end are inconsistent in hand feeling with fabrics at the middle section can be solved, and the fabrics at the head end, the middle section and the tail end are consistent and soft in hand feeling.
2. The silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process can be suitable for dyeing silk fabrics with the length of less than 1500 meters, and process parameters are selected according to different fabric lengths. The applicant confirms through research that in order to meet the requirement of fastness of silk fabrics, when the total length S of the fabrics is different, the vehicle speed a and the number b of jig dyeing tracks of the fabrics are changed, and finally, when the total length S of the fabrics is different, the corresponding technological parameter rules are summarized, so that the jig dyeing and light eliminating process can be smoothly implemented under different fabric lengths. Because the rotating speed and the weighing capacity of the jig dyeing machine have limits, the length of the fabric subjected to conventional one-time jig dyeing is below 1500 meters; therefore, the applicant designs the process parameters corresponding to the length of the fabric below 1500 meters, and the process can be used for shallow eliminating any length below 1500 meters.
Detailed Description
Examples 1 to 5 are specific examples of the silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process of the present invention, wherein example 2 is the best mode. The comparative example is a comparative example designed by the applicant to exclude variables and to compare the effects of the present invention. The soaping agent used for soaping is an active soaping agent SN-45 provided by Wuxi Deguan Biotechnology Co., Ltd, and the dosage is 1 g/L. Monochlorotriazine reactive group reactive dyes, manufactured by Taiwan Yongguang brand H type, red H-E7B yellow H-E4R blue H-ERN; the anionic surfactant is phosphate anionic surfactant produced by Qingdao Yirui chemical Co. Vinyl sulfone reactive group reactive dye, Taiwan Yongguang, Ramarin type, color reactive black B; monochlorotriazine/vinyl sulfone double active group reactive dye, Zhejiang Bizheng factory, brand type B dye.
Example 1
The silk fabric of the embodiment is as follows: real silk chiffon, the gram weight is 35 g/square meter, and the breadth is 90 cm;
the silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process comprises the following steps:
1) adding a dye solution into the dye vat, and heating the dye solution to 55-65 ℃; the dye solution comprises water and reactive dye (permanent light active dye red H-E7B 0.5.5 g/L. reactive yellow H-E4R 0.78.78 g/L reactive blue H-EGN 0.34 g/L.), anionic surfactant 2.5g/L, sodium sulfate 33g/L and sodium carbonate 2 g/L;
2) winding silk fabric to a jig dyeing machine;
3) according to the total length S of the silk fabric being 1500 meters, determining the vehicle speed a to be 95 meters/minute and the total jig dyeing track number b to be 100 tracks;
in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 78% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 78% a;
4) and discharging waste dye liquor after dyeing is finished, and washing the fabric with water at 25 ℃, water at 78 ℃, soaping at 83 ℃, water at 73 ℃, water at 38 ℃, drying at 85 ℃ and tentering and shaping at 110 ℃ to obtain the fabric.
Example 2
The silk fabric of the embodiment is as follows: the real silk/viscose glue is interwoven, the gram weight is 81.5 g/square meter, and the breadth is 90 cm;
the silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process comprises the following steps:
1) adding a dye solution into the dye vat, and heating the dye solution to 55-65 ℃; the dye solution comprises water, 0.1-20 g/L of reactive dye (reactive dye red B-2BF 2.5g/L, reactive yellow B-4 RFN1.5g/L, reactive blue B-2 GLN0.1g/L), 1.5g/L of anionic surfactant, 35g/L of sodium sulfate and 2.5g/L of sodium carbonate;
2) winding silk fabric to a jig dyeing machine;
3) the total length S of the silk fabric is 900 meters, the vehicle speed a is determined to be 85 meters/minute, and the total jig dyeing number b is 100;
in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 80% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 80% a;
4) after dyeing is finished, discharging waste dye liquor, washing the fabric with water at 20 ℃, 75 ℃, 85 ℃, 75 ℃ and 35 ℃; drying at 90 ℃; and (3) tentering and shaping at 105 ℃ to obtain the product.
Example 3
The silk fabric of the embodiment is as follows: real silk/tencel are interwoven, the gram weight is 85.6 g/square meter, and the breadth is 90 cm;
the silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process comprises the following steps:
1) adding a dye solution into the dye vat, and heating the dye solution to 55-65 ℃; the dye solution comprises water, active dye (ramachtin red 3 BS3.5g/L., ramachtin yellow RNL2.6g/L, ramachtin black B12 g/L), anionic surfactant 2g/L, sodium sulfate 50g/L and sodium carbonate 3 g/L;
2) winding silk fabric to a jig dyeing machine;
3) according to the fact that the total length S of the silk fabric is 700 meters, the vehicle speed a is determined to be 55 meters per minute, and the total jig dyeing number b is 100;
in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 82% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 82% a;
4) discharging waste dye liquor after dyeing is finished, washing the fabric with water at 5 ℃, 70 ℃, 88 ℃, 78 ℃ and 33 ℃; drying at 95 ℃; and (4) tentering and shaping at 115 ℃ to obtain the product.
Example 4
The silk fabric of the embodiment is as follows: real silk/cotton interweaving, the gram weight is 95.5 g/square meter, and the breadth is 90 cm;
the silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process comprises the following steps:
1) adding a dye solution into the dye vat, and heating the dye solution to 55-65 ℃; the dye solution comprises 20 g/L of water, 20 g/L of reactive dye (Taiwan permanent light active red LX and active yellow LX according to the mass ratio of 1: 1), 1g/L of anionic surfactant, 100g/L of sodium sulfate and 1.8g/L of sodium carbonate;
2) winding silk fabric to a jig dyeing machine;
3) according to the total length S of the silk fabric being 400 meters, the vehicle speed a is 45 meters/minute, and the total jig dyeing number b is 80 tracks;
in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 75% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 75% a;
4) after dyeing, discharging waste dye liquor, washing the fabric with water at 15 ℃, 60 ℃, 80 ℃, 70 ℃ and 30 ℃; drying at 60 deg.C, and tentering and shaping at 100 deg.C.
Example 5
The silk fabric of the embodiment is as follows: silk mulberry satin, plain weave, gram weight 118.5 g/square meter, breadth 90 cm;
the silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process comprises the following steps:
1) adding a dye solution into the dye vat, and heating the dye solution to 55-65 ℃; the dye solution comprises water, 1g/L of reactive dye (monochloro s-triazine/vinyl sulfone double-active-group reactive dye, Zhejiang Bingzhe Bizhe Bing, yellow), 5 g;
2) winding silk fabric to a jig dyeing machine;
3) according to the fact that the total length S of the silk fabric is 200 meters, the vehicle speed a is 35 meters/minute, and the total jig dyeing number b is 80 tracks;
in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 85% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 85% a;
4) discharging waste dye liquor after dyeing is finished, and washing the fabric with water at 5 ℃, 80 ℃, 90 ℃, 80 ℃ and 50 ℃; drying at 100 ℃; and (3) tentering and shaping at 120 ℃ to obtain the product.
Comparative example 1
The fabric and process of this comparative example are the same as example 2, except that step 3):
in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 90% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 90% a (the area of the head end fabric and the tail end fabric is larger than the vehicle speed of the invention).
Comparative example 2
The fabric and process of this comparative example are the same as example 2, except that step 3):
in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 50% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 50% a (the area of the head end fabric and the tail end fabric is smaller than the vehicle speed of the invention).
Comparative example 3
The fabric and process of this comparative example are the same as example 2, except that step 3):
in the process of each jig dyeing: in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-10% S, the vehicle speed is 80% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 10-90% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 90% S-S, the vehicle speed is 80% a (the length nodes for adjusting the vehicle speed are different, and the preset head end and tail end lengths are shorter than that of the jig dyeing machine).
Comparative example 4
The fabric and process of this comparative example are the same as example 2, except that step 3):
in the process of each jig dyeing: in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-30% S, the vehicle speed is 80% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 30-70% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to 70% S-S, the vehicle speed is 80% a (the length nodes for adjusting the vehicle speed are different, and the preset head end and tail end lengths are longer than that of the jig dyeing machine).
Performance testing
The rubbing fastness is tested according to the national standard GB/T3920-2008;
the color fastness to washing is tested according to the national standard GB/T5713-1997;
the soaping resistance fastness is tested according to the national standard GB/T3921-2008, and the table is shown in the specification;
the color difference between the head and the tail is detected by using a color difference meter △ E1, and the color difference between the head and the tail and a standard sample is provided by using △ E2, wherein the color difference meter is Huisite HR110 precise type, the middle section fabrics are fabrics with qualified color difference by adopting the process of the invention, and △ E2 refers to the color difference between the head and the tail and the standard sample;
and detecting the hand feeling difference of the head end fabric, the middle section fabric and the tail end fabric by adopting a mode of manually touching and checking the goods. Each example or comparative example was checked by 10 inspectors, and the evaluation results of 10 inspectors were averaged and entered into the following table.
Hand feeling scoring standard:
3 minutes, namely the head end fabric and the tail end fabric have the same hand feeling as the middle section fabric and are not different;
2 min, namely the head end fabric and the tail end fabric have slight difference in hand feeling with the middle section fabric and can be confirmed only by touching and comparing for many times;
1 minute-head end fabric and tail end fabric have obvious difference with the middle section fabric in hand feeling, and can be distinguished by 1 touch comparison.
Table 1 example fabric base performance testing
Table 2 comparative example fabric base performance test
As can be seen from the table above, the head-tail color difference △ E and the standard sample color difference △ L in the embodiment are both small, and it is proved that the fabrics obtained in the embodiments 1-5 have no obvious head-tail color difference problem and have no obvious difference from the standard sample provided by a customer.
Comparative examples 1-2 are not in accordance with the present invention. Comparative example 1 is faster than the present invention, the head and tail end had poor hand feel, and still had high color difference, the head and tail end fabrics were light in color, the middle section fabric was dark in color, and the middle section fabric was color-different from the standard. Comparative example 2 is slower than the present invention, resulting in a darker color for the head and tail end fabrics and a lighter color for the middle section fabrics.
Comparative examples 3-4 are not consistent with the gear change node of the present invention. Comparative example 3 the head and tail end fabrics each had 40 m long regions that were over-lightly dyed, and the light regions were located at the junction of the head end fabric and the middle section fabric, and at the junction of the tail end fabric and the middle section fabric. Comparative example 4 each of the head and tail end fabrics had a 30 m long region of over-dyeing, and the dark regions were located at the junction of the head end fabric and the middle section fabric and at the junction of the tail end fabric and the middle section fabric.
The foregoing is directed to preferred embodiments of the present invention, other and further embodiments of the invention may be devised without departing from the basic scope thereof, and the scope thereof is determined by the claims that follow. However, any simple modification, equivalent change and modification of the above embodiments according to the technical spirit of the present invention may be made without departing from the technical spirit of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. A silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process is characterized by comprising the following steps:
1) adding a dye solution into the dye vat, and heating the dye solution to 55-65 ℃;
2) winding silk fabric to a jig dyeing machine;
3) setting the total length of the silk fabric as S, the vehicle speed as a and the total dyeing track number as b;
in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 75-85% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 75-85% a; the total length S of the silk fabric is less than or equal to 1500 m, the vehicle speed a is 30-95 m/min, and the total number b of jig dyeing tracks is 80-100;
4) and discharging the waste dye liquor, washing the fabric with water, drying, tentering and setting to obtain the fabric.
2. The silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process of claim 1, which is characterized in that: in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 78-82% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 78-82% a.
3. The silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process of claim 1, which is characterized in that: in the process of each jig dyeing: when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 0-20% S, the vehicle speed is 80% a; when the jig dyeing is carried out to the length of 20-80% S, the vehicle speed is a; when the jig dyeing reaches 80% S-S, the vehicle speed is 80% a.
4. The silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process of claim 1, which is characterized in that: when the total length of the silk fabric is not less than 1000 m and not more than 1500 m, the vehicle speed a is 90-95 m/min, and the total dyeing track number b is 100.
5. The silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process of claim 1, which is characterized in that: the total length S of the silk fabric is more than or equal to 800 m and less than 1000 m, the vehicle speed a is 80-90 m/min, and the total number b of jig dyeing tracks is 100.
6. The silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process of claim 1, which is characterized in that: when the total length S of the silk fabric is more than or equal to 500 m and less than 800 m, the vehicle speed a is 50-60 m/min, and the total number b of jig dyeing tracks is 100.
7. The silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process of claim 1, which is characterized in that: when the total length S of the silk fabric is more than or equal to 300 m and less than 500 m, the vehicle speed a is 40-50 m/min, and the total number b of jig dyeing tracks is 80.
8. The silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process of claim 1, which is characterized in that: when the total length S of the silk fabric is less than 300 meters, the vehicle speed a is 30-40 meters/minute, and the total number b of jig dyeing tracks is 80 tracks.
9. The silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process of claim 1, which is characterized in that: the dye solution comprises water, 0.1-20 g/L of reactive dye, 1-5 g/L of anionic surfactant, 25-100 g/L of sodium sulfate and 1.8-4 g/L of sodium carbonate.
10. The silk fabric jig dyeing and lightening process of claim 1, which is characterized in that: the active group of the reactive dye is at least one of a chloro-s-triazine active group and a vinyl sulfone active group.
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