CN101748601B - Aging processing method for colored fabric - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种有色面料的仿旧加工方法,特点是在传统的纱线染织加工工艺前增加对纱线的阳离子改性工艺,使整个加工的工艺步骤依次为:备纱→纱线阳离子改性→纱线染织加工→定型→预缩→水洗→成品;优点是本加工方法使得纱线的表层着色均匀,而纱线的内层保持原来的白芯,形成明显的皮-芯效果,使加工出来的面料具有均匀的环染,仿旧处理效果均匀;而且通过对阳离子改性剂和活性染料的联合应用,使得染色织物达到了硫化染料或靛蓝染料才能达到的效果,极大地减少了能源的消耗,降低了环境的污染,保证了染色的稳定性和生产效率,提高了产品质量。The invention discloses an old-fashioned processing method for colored fabrics, which is characterized in that the cationic modification process of the yarn is added before the traditional yarn dyeing and weaving process, so that the entire processing process steps are: yarn preparation→yarn Cationic modification→yarn dyeing and weaving processing→setting→preshrinking→washing→finished product; the advantage is that this processing method makes the surface layer of the yarn evenly colored, while the inner layer of the yarn maintains the original white core, forming an obvious skin-core effect, so that the processed fabrics have uniform ring dyeing, and the effect of distressed treatment is uniform; and through the combined application of cationic modifiers and reactive dyes, the dyed fabrics can achieve the effect that sulfur dyes or indigo dyes can achieve, greatly improving It reduces energy consumption, reduces environmental pollution, ensures dyeing stability and production efficiency, and improves product quality.
Description
技术领域 technical field
本发明涉及一种纺织业中面料的处理方法,尤其涉及一种有色面料的仿旧加工方法。The invention relates to a method for processing fabrics in the textile industry, in particular to an imitation processing method for colored fabrics.
背景技术 Background technique
仿旧加工可使织物或成衣的表面产生一种穿旧的感觉,迎合人们追求时尚的心理。目前用于织物或成衣仿旧加工的方法主要有石磨水洗、漂洗和硫化等。Distressed processing can make the surface of the fabric or garment produce a worn-out feeling, catering to people's psychology of pursuing fashion. At present, the methods used for the imitation processing of fabrics or garments mainly include stone washing, rinsing and vulcanization.
石磨洗是指将衣物和一定量的浮石、少量的剥色剂(如次氯酸钠、高锰酸钾等)及洗涤剂一起放入滚筒洗衣机中进行磨洗,利用浮石与衣物之间的摩擦作用使衣物上的染料脱落,且在衣物局部的棱角和缝接处产生磨白,从而达到“穿旧感”的效果;漂洗是利用双氧水或次氯酸钠的氧化作用来破坏衣物上染料的结构,从而达到褪色增白的效果;以上石磨洗和漂洗主要是对成衣的仿旧处理,其仿旧效果不大均匀;而硫化主要是对面料的仿旧处理,但是硫化处理对环境有污染,且能耗较大。Stone washing refers to putting clothes and a certain amount of pumice, a small amount of stripping agent (such as sodium hypochlorite, potassium permanganate, etc.) and detergent into the drum washing machine for grinding, using the friction between the pumice and the clothes Make the dyes on the clothes fall off, and produce whitening on the edges and seams of the clothes, so as to achieve the effect of "worn sense"; rinsing is to use the oxidation of hydrogen peroxide or sodium hypochlorite to destroy the structure of the dyes on the clothes, so as to achieve The effect of fading and whitening; the above stone washing and rinsing are mainly for the distressed treatment of garments, and the distressed effect is not uniform; and vulcanization is mainly for the distressed treatment of fabrics, but the vulcanization process pollutes the environment and can consumes more.
发明内容 Contents of the invention
本发明所要解决的技术问题是提供一种仿旧处理效果均匀,能耗较低且环保的有色面料的仿旧加工方法。The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide an imitation processing method for colored fabrics with uniform effect of imitation treatment, low energy consumption and environmental protection.
本发明解决上述技术问题所采用的技术方案为:一种有色面料的仿旧加工方法,它是在传统的纱线染织加工工艺前增加对纱线的阳离子改性工艺,使整个加工的工艺步骤依次为:备纱→纱线阳离子改性→纱线染织加工→定型→预缩→水洗→成品。The technical solution adopted by the present invention to solve the above-mentioned technical problems is: a kind of imitation processing method for colored fabrics, which is to add a cationic modification process to the yarn before the traditional yarn dyeing and weaving process, so that the entire processing process The steps are: yarn preparation→yarn cationic modification→yarn dyeing and weaving processing→sizing→preshrinking→washing→finished product.
所述的纱线阳离子改性工艺为:在单纱上浆机的浆槽内加入改性剂30~100g/L,然后让纱线通过单纱上浆机进行阳离子改性,并将改性好的纱线卷绕到纸筒上成筒纱,控制筒纱的松纱密度为0.30~0.40g/cm3,单纱重为0.3~0.8Kg/筒。The yarn cationic modification process is as follows: add 30-100 g/L modifier in the size tank of the single yarn sizing machine, then let the yarn undergo cationic modification through the single yarn sizing machine, and put the modified The yarn is wound onto the paper tube to form a bobbin yarn, the loose yarn density of the bobbin is controlled to be 0.30-0.40g/cm 3 , and the single yarn weight is 0.3-0.8Kg/bobbin.
所述的纱线阳离子改性工艺为:Described yarn cationic modification process is:
(1)、将纱线在绞纱摇纱机上摇纱,控制纱线的重量为300~500g/匝,纱线的厚度均匀;(1), shake the yarn on the skein shaker, control the weight of the yarn to be 300-500g/turn, and the thickness of the yarn is uniform;
(2)、在绞纱喷射染缸内加入精炼剂0.5~2g/L,将摇好的纱线放入绞纱喷射染缸内进行轻微精炼,在80~100℃的温度下保温处理5~30min;(2) Add 0.5-2g/L of refining agent into the skein jet dyeing vat, put the shaken yarn into the skein jet dyeing vat for slight refining, and heat-preserve at 80-100°C for 5-30 minutes;
(3)、将精炼后的纱线水洗两次;(3), washing the refined yarn twice;
(4)、在绞纱染色机中对纱线进行阳离子改性,其中添加改性剂的用量为10~80g/L,并控制纱线与改性剂溶液的重量浴比为1∶5~20,在40~90℃的温度下保温处理5~30min。(4), carry out cationic modification to yarn in hank yarn dyeing machine, wherein the consumption of adding modifier is 10~80g/L, and the weight bath ratio of control yarn and modifier solution is 1: 5~ 20. Insulate at a temperature of 40-90°C for 5-30 minutes.
所述的纱线阳离子改性工艺为:先在络筒机上对纱线进行松纱,控制松纱密度为0.30~0.40g/cm3,纱线重量为0.3~0.8Kg/筒,然后在普通染缸里加入改性剂10~80g/L,将松纱后的纱筒放入染缸内进行阳离子改性,在60℃的温度下保温处理10~60min。The yarn cationic modification process is as follows: first loosen the yarn on the winder, control the loose yarn density to 0.30-0.40g/cm 3 , and the yarn weight to 0.3-0.8Kg/bobbin, and then Add 10-80g/L modifier into the dyeing vat, put the loose yarn bobbin into the dyeing vat for cationic modification, and heat-preserve at 60°C for 10-60 minutes.
所述的纱线阳离子改性工艺为:先在整经机上对纱线进行整经,然后在浆纱机的浆槽里添加改性剂30~100g/L,并将整经后的纱线放入浆纱机中按传统经纱浆纱工艺进行阳离子改性。The yarn cationic modification process is as follows: first warp the yarn on the warping machine, then add 30-100 g/L modifier in the sizing tank of the sizing machine, and warp the warped yarn Put it into the sizing machine to carry out cationic modification according to the traditional warp sizing process.
所述的纱线染织加工的具体工艺步骤为:染色→烘干→络筒→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→丝光。The specific process steps of the yarn dyeing and weaving process are: dyeing→drying→winding→sizing→weaving→singing→desizing→mercerizing.
在所述的纱线阳离子改性和染色工艺之间增加对纱线的水洗工艺,其具体工艺为:将纱线放入染缸中并进入热水,在40~80℃的温度下保温5~20min,然后排水,该工艺可促使后续的染纱工艺染色比较均匀。Add a water washing process for the yarn between the cationic modification of the yarn and the dyeing process. The specific process is: put the yarn in the dyeing vat and enter the hot water, and keep it warm at a temperature of 40-80°C for 5-50°C. 20min, then drain, this process can promote the dyeing of subsequent yarn dyeing process to be more uniform.
所述的纱线染织加工的具体工艺步骤为:烘干→络筒→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→丝光→染色。The specific process steps of the yarn dyeing and weaving process are: drying → winding → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → mercerizing → dyeing.
所述的染色工艺为:将纱线或布匹放入染缸中并进水,然后向染缸中加入染料,并以1~3℃/min的升温速率升温至80℃,并保温5~30min。The dyeing process is as follows: put the yarn or cloth into the dyeing vat and add water, then add dye into the dyeing vat, raise the temperature to 80°C at a heating rate of 1-3°C/min, and keep it warm for 5-30min.
所述的染色工艺中,在向染缸中加入染料之前,先向染缸中加入2~10g/L的低盐,以上染色工艺与传统的染色工艺相比,由于染色过程中无盐无碱(或低盐),从而节约了能源,降低了成本,并减少了污染和污水的处理负担。In the described dyeing process, before adding dyestuff to the dyeing vat, 2-10 g/L of low salt is added to the dyeing vat earlier. Compared with the traditional dyeing process, the above dyeing process has no salt and no alkali (or no alkali) in the dyeing process. low salt), thereby saving energy, reducing costs, and reducing the burden of pollution and sewage treatment.
本发明中所使用的改性剂采用陶氏化学中国有限公司生产的Quat188离子试剂,它是一种含反应型功能团的阳离子单体,可以与阴离子结合,用于改善天然以及合成聚合物,生产季铵化合物,它主要用于化学加工、个人护理产品/化妆品、纸浆和纸张、纺织品和水资源管理行业。The modifier used in the present invention adopts the Quat188 ionic reagent produced by Dow Chemical China Co., Ltd., which is a cationic monomer containing reactive functional groups, which can be combined with anions to improve natural and synthetic polymers. Produces quaternary ammonium compounds, which are primarily used in the chemical processing, personal care products/cosmetics, pulp and paper, textiles and water management industries.
精炼剂采用巴斯夫化学有限公司生产的奇利龙XC-J浓剂,它是一种无色至浅黄色的清澈液体,是含烷氧基化长链脂肪醇的非离子表面活性剂的混合物,不含APEO及磷酸类成分,在室温条件下,可耐30g/L的NAOH 100%,具有较高的稳定性,在高效循环设备中不会造成分层现象,而且是一种具有乳化和洗涤性能的低泡润湿剂、洗涤剂,可有效去除合纤及其混纺物中的杂质和油渍,提高后序加工的安全性和重现性,适用于棉、化纤及其混纺纺织品的浸染前处理加工。The refining agent adopts Qililong XC-J concentration agent produced by BASF Chemical Co., Ltd., which is a colorless to light yellow clear liquid, which is a mixture of nonionic surfactants containing alkoxylated long-chain fatty alcohols. It does not contain APEO and phosphoric acid components. At room temperature, it can withstand 30g/L NAOH 100%. It has high stability and will not cause stratification in high-efficiency circulation equipment. It is a kind of emulsification and washing High-performance low-foaming wetting agent and detergent, which can effectively remove impurities and oil stains in synthetic fibers and their blends, and improve the safety and reproducibility of subsequent processing. It is suitable for cotton, chemical fibers and their blends before dyeing. Processing.
染料采用德司达染料有限公司生产的德司达Remazol染料,它是一种活性染料,可以与纤维素纤维化学键结合。The dye adopts DyStar Remazol dye produced by DyStar Dyestuff Co., Ltd., which is a reactive dye that can be chemically bonded with cellulose fibers.
与现有技术相比,本发明的优点是由于在传统的纱线染织加工前增加对纱线的阳离子改性,使得纱线的表层着色均匀,而纱线的内层保持原来的白芯,形成明显的皮-芯效果,使加工出来的面料具有均匀的环染,仿旧处理效果均匀;而且通过对阳离子改性剂和活性染料的联合应用,使得染色织物达到了硫化染料或靛蓝染料才能达到的效果,极大地减少了能源的消耗,降低了环境的污染,保证了染色的稳定性和生产效率,提高了产品质量。Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the advantage of increasing the cationic modification of the yarn before the traditional yarn dyeing and weaving processing, so that the surface layer of the yarn is evenly colored, while the inner layer of the yarn maintains the original white core , forming an obvious skin-core effect, so that the processed fabric has uniform ring dyeing, and the effect of distressed treatment is uniform; and through the combined application of cationic modifiers and reactive dyes, the dyed fabric has reached the level of sulfur dyes or indigo dyes. The effect can only be achieved, which greatly reduces energy consumption, reduces environmental pollution, ensures dyeing stability and production efficiency, and improves product quality.
具体实施方式 Detailed ways
以下对本发明作进一步详细描述。The present invention is described in further detail below.
实施例一:取规格为20S(英制支数)、数量为30KG的纱线进行单纱改性,并染制成藏青色,最后加工成仿旧色织面料的具体过程如下:Embodiment one: get specification and be 20S (imperial count), the yarn that quantity is 30KG is carried out single yarn modification, and dyed into dark blue, the specific process of finally being processed into imitation old-fashioned yarn-dyed fabric is as follows:
(1)、在单纱上浆机(YAMADA YS-6)的浆槽内加入改性剂80g/L,让纱线通过单纱上浆机进行阳离子改性,并将改性好的纱线卷绕到纸筒上成筒纱,然后将筒纱在络筒机(SSM TW1-W)上回绕到带有孔眼的塑料筒管上,控制筒纱的松纱密度为0.37g/cm3,单纱重为0.5Kg/筒;(1) Add 80g/L modifier into the sizing tank of the single yarn sizing machine (YAMADA YS-6), let the yarn undergo cationic modification through the single yarn sizing machine, and wind the modified yarn to the paper tube to form a bobbin, and then wind the bobbin on the winder (SSM TW1-W) onto a plastic bobbin with holes, control the loose yarn density of the bobbin to 0.37g/cm 3 , single yarn Weight is 0.5Kg/barrel;
(2)、将改性后的筒纱放在染缸中,用60℃热水洗10min,并排水;(2), put the modified bobbin in the dye vat, wash with 60°C hot water for 10min, and drain;
(3)、再向染缸中进水,在室温下加入德司达Remazol藏青色染料2%(owf),搅拌均匀,并以2.0℃/min的速率升温至80℃,保温5min,排除残液得到染色纱,然后按传统的常规工艺对染色纱进行水洗→皂洗→水洗→固色→柔软处理→脱水→烘干;(3) Add water to the dye vat, add DyStar Remazol navy blue dye 2% (owf) at room temperature, stir evenly, and raise the temperature to 80°C at a rate of 2.0°C/min, keep it warm for 5min, and remove the residual liquid The dyed yarn is obtained, and then the dyed yarn is washed → soaped → washed → color fixing → softening → dehydration → drying according to the traditional conventional process;
(4)、按传统的常规工艺对烘干的染色纱进行后续步骤:络筒→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→丝光→定型→预缩→水洗→成品。(4) Perform follow-up steps on the dried dyed yarn according to the traditional conventional process: winding → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → mercerizing → shaping → preshrinking → washing → finished product.
实施例二:取规格为20S(英制支数)、数量为25KG的纱线进行单纱改性,并染制成藏青色,最后加工成仿旧色织面料的具体过程如下:Embodiment two: getting specification is 20S (imperial count), the yarn that quantity is 25KG is carried out single yarn modification, and dyed into navy blue, the concrete process of finally being processed into imitation old-fashioned yarn-dyed fabric is as follows:
(1)、在单纱上浆机(YAMADA YS-6)的浆槽内加入改性剂60g/L,让纱线通过单纱上浆机进行阳离子改性,并将改性好的纱线卷绕到纸筒上成筒纱,然后将筒纱在络筒机(SSM TW1-W)上回绕到带有孔眼的塑料筒管上,控制筒纱的松纱密度为0.32g/cm3,单纱重为0.4Kg/筒;(1) Add 60g/L modifier into the sizing tank of the single yarn sizing machine (YAMADA YS-6), let the yarn undergo cationic modification through the single yarn sizing machine, and wind the modified yarn Put the bobbin yarn on the paper tube, and then wind the bobbin yarn on the plastic bobbin with holes on the winder (SSM TW1-W), control the loose yarn density of the bobbin yarn to 0.32g/cm 3 , single yarn Weight is 0.4Kg/tube;
(2)、将改性后的筒纱放在染缸中,用60℃热水洗10min,并排水;(2), put the modified bobbin in the dye vat, wash with 60°C hot water for 10min, and drain;
(3)、再向染缸中进水,在室温下加入德司达Remazol藏青色染料2%(owf),搅拌均匀,并以1.5℃/min的速率升温至80℃,保温20min,排除残液得到染色纱,然后按传统的常规工艺对染色纱进行水洗→皂洗→水洗→固色→柔软处理→脱水→烘干;(3) Add water to the dye vat, add DyStar Remazol navy blue dye 2% (owf) at room temperature, stir evenly, and raise the temperature to 80°C at a rate of 1.5°C/min, keep it warm for 20min, and remove the residual liquid The dyed yarn is obtained, and then the dyed yarn is washed → soaped → washed → color fixing → softening → dehydration → drying according to the traditional conventional process;
(4)、按传统的常规工艺对烘干的染色纱进行后续步骤:络筒→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→丝光→定型→预缩→水洗→成品。(4) Perform follow-up steps on the dried dyed yarn according to the traditional conventional process: winding → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → mercerizing → shaping → preshrinking → washing → finished product.
实施例三:取规格为10S、数量为50Kg的纱线进行绞纱改性,并染制成枣红色,最后加工成仿旧色织面料的具体过程如下:Embodiment three: get specification is 10S, the yarn that quantity is 50Kg is carried out skein modification, and is dyed into maroon, the concrete process of finally being processed into imitation old-fashioned yarn-dyed fabric is as follows:
(1)、将纱线在绞纱摇纱机上摇纱,控制纱线的重量为400g/匝,纱线的厚度均匀;(1), the yarn is shaken on the hank yarn shaking machine, the weight of the controlled yarn is 400g/turn, and the thickness of the yarn is even;
(2)、在绞纱喷射染缸内加入精炼剂1g/L,将摇好的纱线放入绞纱喷射染缸内进行轻微精炼,在95℃的温度下保温处理10min;(2) Add 1g/L of refining agent into the skein jet dyeing vat, put the shaken yarn into the skein jet dyeing vat for slight refining, and heat-preserve at 95°C for 10 minutes;
(3)、将精炼后的纱线水洗两次;(3), washing the refined yarn twice;
(4)、在绞纱染色机中对纱线进行阳离子改性,其中添加改性剂的用量为80g/L,并控制纱线与改性剂溶液的重量浴比为1∶10,在60℃的温度下保温处理15min,并排水;(4), cationic modification is carried out to yarn in hank yarn dyeing machine, wherein the consumption of adding modifier is 80g/L, and the weight bath ratio of control yarn and modifier solution is 1: 10, at 60 Insulation treatment at a temperature of ℃ for 15 minutes, and drain;
(5)、将改性后的绞纱放在染缸中,用50℃热水洗20min,并排水;(5), the modified skein is placed in the dye vat, washed with 50°C hot water for 20min, and drained;
(6)、再向染缸中进水,在室温下加入德司达Remazol枣红色染料7.9%(owf),搅拌均匀,并以2.0℃/min的速率升温至80℃,保温15min,排除残液得到染色纱,然后按传统的常规工艺对染色纱进行水洗→皂洗→水洗→固色→柔软处理→脱水→烘干;(6) Add water to the dye vat again, add DyStar Remazol maroon dye 7.9% (owf) at room temperature, stir evenly, and raise the temperature to 80°C at a rate of 2.0°C/min, keep it warm for 15min, and remove the residual liquid The dyed yarn is obtained, and then the dyed yarn is washed → soaped → washed → color fixing → softening → dehydration → drying according to the traditional conventional process;
(7)、按传统的常规工艺对烘干的染色纱进行后续步骤:络筒→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→丝光→定型→预缩→水洗→成品。(7) Perform follow-up steps on the dried dyed yarn according to the traditional conventional process: winding → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → mercerizing → shaping → preshrinking → washing → finished product.
实施例四:取规格为10S、数量为40Kg的纱线进行绞纱改性,并染制成枣红色,最后加工成仿旧色织面料的具体过程如下:Embodiment 4: get specification is 10S, the yarn that quantity is 40Kg carries out skein modification, and is dyed into purplish red, the concrete process of finally being processed into imitation old-fashioned yarn-dyed fabric is as follows:
(1)、将纱线在绞纱摇纱机上摇纱,控制纱线的重量为300g/匝,纱线的厚度均匀;(1), the yarn is shaken on the hank yarn shaking machine, the weight of the controlled yarn is 300g/turn, and the thickness of the yarn is uniform;
(2)、在绞纱喷射染缸内加入精炼剂1.5g/L,将摇好的纱线放入绞纱喷射染缸内进行轻微精炼,在85℃的温度下保温处理20min;(2), add 1.5g/L of refining agent in the skein jet dyeing vat, put the shaken yarn into the skein jet dyeing vat for slight refining, and heat-preserve at 85°C for 20 minutes;
(3)、将精炼后的纱线水洗两次;(3), washing the refined yarn twice;
(4)、在绞纱染色机中对纱线进行阳离子改性,其中添加改性剂的用量为50g/L,并控制纱线与改性剂溶液的重量浴比为1∶20,在70℃的温度下保温处理20min,并排水;(4), cationic modification is carried out to yarn in hank yarn dyeing machine, wherein the consumption of adding modifier is 50g/L, and the weight bath ratio of control yarn and modifier solution is 1: 20, at 70 Insulation treatment at a temperature of ℃ for 20 minutes, and drain;
(5)、将改性后的绞纱放在染缸中,用80℃热水洗5min,并排水;(5), the modified skein is placed in the dye vat, washed with 80°C hot water for 5 minutes, and drained;
(6)、再向染缸中进水,在室温下加入德司达Remazol枣红色染料6%(owf),搅拌均匀,并以3.0℃/min的速率升温至80℃,保温10min,排除残液得到染色纱,然后按传统的常规工艺对染色纱进行水洗→皂洗→水洗→固色→柔软处理→脱水→烘干;(6) Add water to the dye vat again, add DyStar Remazol maroon dye 6% (owf) at room temperature, stir evenly, and heat up to 80°C at a rate of 3.0°C/min, keep it warm for 10min, and remove the residual liquid The dyed yarn is obtained, and then the dyed yarn is washed → soaped → washed → color fixing → softening → dehydration → drying according to the traditional conventional process;
(7)、按传统的常规工艺对烘干的染色纱进行后续步骤:络筒→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→丝光→定型→预缩→水洗→成品。(7) Perform follow-up steps on the dried dyed yarn according to the traditional conventional process: winding → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → mercerizing → shaping → preshrinking → washing → finished product.
实施例五:取规格为16S(熟丝),数量为10筒的纱线进行筒子纱改性,并染制成暗棕色,最后加工成仿旧色织面料的具体过程如下:Embodiment five: getting specification is 16S (cooked silk), and quantity is that the yarn of 10 barrels is carried out package yarn modification, and is dyed into dark brown, and the specific process of finally being processed into imitation old-fashioned yarn-dyed fabric is as follows:
(1)、先在络筒机(SSM TW1-W)上对纱线进行松纱,以数码卷绕控制松纱密度为0.35g/cm3,纱线重量为0.5Kg/筒,然后在普通染缸里加入改性剂50g/L,将松纱后的纱筒放入染缸内进行阳离子改性,在60℃的温度下保温处理15min,排水;(1) First loosen the yarn on the winder (SSM TW1-W), control the loose yarn density to 0.35g/cm 3 by digital winding, and the yarn weight to 0.5Kg/coil, and then Add modifier 50g/L into the dyeing vat, put the loosened yarn bobbin into the dyeing vat for cationic modification, heat preservation at 60°C for 15 minutes, and drain;
(2)、将改性后的筒子纱放在染缸中,用50℃热水洗15min,并排水;(2), the modified package is placed in the dye vat, washed with 50°C hot water for 15 minutes, and drained;
(3)、再向染缸中进水,在室温下加入德司达Remazol暗棕色染料8.5%(owf),搅拌均匀,并以2.0℃/min的速率升温至80℃,保温15min,排除残液得到染色纱,然后按传统的常规工艺对染色纱进行水洗→皂洗→水洗→固色→柔软处理→脱水→烘干;(3) Add water to the dye vat, add DyStar Remazol dark brown dye 8.5% (owf) at room temperature, stir evenly, and raise the temperature to 80°C at a rate of 2.0°C/min, keep it warm for 15min, and remove the residual liquid The dyed yarn is obtained, and then the dyed yarn is washed → soaped → washed → color fixing → softening → dehydration → drying according to the traditional conventional process;
(4)、按传统的常规工艺对烘干的染色纱进行后续步骤:络筒→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→丝光→定型→预缩→水洗→成品。(4) Perform follow-up steps on the dried dyed yarn according to the traditional conventional process: winding → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → mercerizing → shaping → preshrinking → washing → finished product.
实施例六:取规格为16S(熟丝),数量为15筒的纱线进行筒子纱改性,并染制成暗棕色,最后加工成仿旧色织面料的具体过程如下:Embodiment six: get specification and be 16S (cooked silk), the yarn that quantity is 15 tubes is carried out package yarn modification, and is dyed into dark brown, and the specific process of finally being processed into imitation old-fashioned yarn-dyed fabric is as follows:
(1)、先在络筒机(SSM TW1-W)上对纱线进行松纱,以数码卷绕控制松纱密度为0.38g/cm3,纱线重量为0.6Kg/筒,然后在普通染缸里加入改性剂60g/L,将松纱后的纱筒放入染缸内进行阳离子改性,在60℃的温度下保温处理30min,排水;(1) First loosen the yarn on the winder (SSM TW1-W), control the loose yarn density to 0.38g/cm 3 by digital winding, and the yarn weight to 0.6Kg/bobbin, and then Add modifier 60g/L into the dyeing vat, put the loose yarn bobbin into the dyeing vat for cationic modification, heat preservation at 60°C for 30 minutes, and drain;
(2)、将改性后的筒子纱放在染缸中,用60℃热水洗10min,并排水;(2), the modified cheese is placed in the dye vat, washed with 60 ℃ hot water for 10min, and drained;
(3)、向染缸中进水,在室温下加入德司达Remazol暗棕色染料10%(owf),搅拌均匀,并以2.5℃/min的速率升温至80℃,保温25min,排除残液得到染色纱,然后按传统的常规工艺对染色纱进行水洗→皂洗→水洗→固色→柔软处理→脱水→烘干;(3), enter water into the dye vat, add DyStar Remazol dark brown dye 10% (owf) at room temperature, stir evenly, and heat up to 80°C at a rate of 2.5°C/min, keep it warm for 25min, and get rid of the residual liquid to obtain Dyed yarn, and then wash the dyed yarn according to the traditional conventional process→soaping→washing→fixing→softening→dehydration→drying;
(4)、按传统的常规工艺对烘干的染色纱进行后续步骤:络筒→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→丝光→定型→预缩→水洗→成品。(4) Perform follow-up steps on the dried dyed yarn according to the traditional conventional process: winding → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → mercerizing → shaping → preshrinking → washing → finished product.
实施例七:取规格为30S,重量为300Kg的纱线进行经轴纱改性,并染制成绿色,最后加工成仿旧色织面料的具体过程如下:Embodiment seven: getting specification is 30S, and the yarn that weight is 300Kg carries out beam yarn modification, and is dyed into green, and the specific process of finally being processed into imitation old yarn-dyed fabric is as follows:
(1)、先在整经机上对纱线进行整经,然后在浆纱机的浆槽里添加改性剂60g/L,并将整经后的纱线放入浆纱机中按传统经纱浆纱工艺进行阳离子改性;(1), first warp the yarn on the warping machine, then add modifier 60g/L in the sizing tank of the sizing machine, and put the warped yarn into the sizing machine according to the traditional warp Cationic modification by sizing process;
(2)、将改性后的经轴纱放在染缸中,用50℃热水洗10min,并排水;(2), the warp beam after the modification is placed in the dye vat, washed with 50 ℃ hot water for 10min, and drained;
(3)、再向染缸中进水,在室温下加入德司达Remazol绿色染料1.8%(owf),搅拌均匀,并以2.0℃/min的速率升温至80℃,保温20min,排除残液得到染色纱,然后按传统的常规工艺对染色纱进行水洗→皂洗→水洗→固色→柔软处理→脱水→烘干;(3), water is added to the dye vat again, and DyStar Remazol green dye 1.8% (owf) is added at room temperature, stirred evenly, and heated to 80°C at a rate of 2.0°C/min, kept for 20min, and the residual liquid is removed to obtain Dyed yarn, and then wash the dyed yarn according to the traditional conventional process→soaping→washing→fixing→softening→dehydration→drying;
(4)、按传统的常规工艺对烘干的染色纱进行后续步骤:络筒→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→丝光→定型→预缩→水洗→成品。(4) Perform follow-up steps on the dried dyed yarn according to the traditional conventional process: winding → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → mercerizing → shaping → preshrinking → washing → finished product.
实施例八:取规格为30S,重量为200Kg的纱线进行经轴纱改性,并染制成绿色,最后加工成仿旧色织面料的具体过程如下:Embodiment eight: getting specification is 30S, and the yarn that weight is 200Kg carries out beam yarn modification, and is dyed into green, and the specific process of finally being processed into imitation old-fashioned yarn-dyed fabric is as follows:
(1)、先在整经机上对纱线进行整经,然后在浆纱机的浆槽里添加改性剂100g/L,并将整经后的纱线放入浆纱机中按传统经纱浆纱工艺进行阳离子改性;(1), first warp the yarn on the warping machine, then add modifier 100g/L in the sizing tank of the sizing machine, and put the warped yarn into the sizing machine according to the traditional warp Cationic modification by sizing process;
(2)、将改性后的经轴纱放在染缸中,用70℃热水洗8min,并排水;(2), the warp beam after the modification is placed in the dye vat, washed with 70 ℃ hot water for 8min, and drained;
(3)、再向染缸中进水,在室温下加入德司达Remazol绿色染料2.2%(owf),搅拌均匀,并以1.5℃/min的速率升温至80℃,保温10min,排除残液得到染色纱,然后按传统的常规工艺对染色纱进行水洗→皂洗→水洗→固色→柔软处理→脱水→烘干;(3), water is added to the dye vat again, and DyStar Remazol green dye 2.2% (owf) is added at room temperature, stirred evenly, and heated to 80°C at a rate of 1.5°C/min, kept for 10min, and the residual liquid is removed to obtain Dyed yarn, and then wash the dyed yarn according to the traditional conventional process→soaping→washing→fixing→softening→dehydration→drying;
(4)、按传统的常规工艺对烘干的染色纱进行后续步骤:络筒→浆纱→织造→烧毛→退浆→丝光→定型→预缩→水洗→成品。(4) Perform follow-up steps on the dried dyed yarn according to the traditional conventional process: winding → sizing → weaving → singeing → desizing → mercerizing → shaping → preshrinking → washing → finished product.
上述实施例中,单位owf表示以纱线重量为基准,而加工工艺中,如果将染色工艺放在布匹织造以后,则最后的成品称为匹染面料。In the above-mentioned embodiments, the unit owf is based on the yarn weight, and in the processing technology, if the dyeing process is placed after the weaving of the cloth, the final product is called piece-dyed fabric.
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| CN102021834B (en) * | 2010-11-08 | 2012-08-08 | 嵊州盛泰色织科技有限公司 | Processing of environmental friendly retrospective knitted fabric |
| CN102587134B (en) * | 2011-01-12 | 2014-04-02 | 香港纺织及成衣研发中心 | Processing method of ready-made clothes with washing effect and ready-made clothes processed by processing method |
| CN106245354B (en) * | 2016-08-17 | 2018-10-16 | 嵊州盛泰针织有限公司 | A kind of colouring processing method of knitting jeans fabric |
| CN107034705B (en) * | 2017-04-28 | 2019-07-23 | 浙江银河印染有限公司 | The method that cotton knitwear reactive dye imitate old dress dyeing |
| CN108560286A (en) * | 2018-04-18 | 2018-09-21 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of method that the dark red yarn-dyed checked fabric of pure cotton imitates old dyeing |
| CN112962305A (en) * | 2021-01-22 | 2021-06-15 | 愉悦家纺有限公司 | Preparation method of linen-like old-style-imitating yarn and fabric |
| CN115748269A (en) * | 2022-12-01 | 2023-03-07 | 吉林省荣发服装服饰有限公司 | Worn-out processing method of clothes |
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