CN112195666A - Dyeing and finishing processing technology of novel ultra-high elastic fabric based on PBT composite yarn - Google Patents

Dyeing and finishing processing technology of novel ultra-high elastic fabric based on PBT composite yarn Download PDF

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CN112195666A
CN112195666A CN202010919174.3A CN202010919174A CN112195666A CN 112195666 A CN112195666 A CN 112195666A CN 202010919174 A CN202010919174 A CN 202010919174A CN 112195666 A CN112195666 A CN 112195666A
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dyeing
temperature
fabric
elastic fabric
high elastic
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CN112195666B (en
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吴学芬
沈俊
钱琴芳
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Shenghong Group Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L1/00Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
    • D06L1/12Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
    • D06L1/14De-sizing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0032Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/445Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8276Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing ester groups

Abstract

The invention discloses a dyeing and finishing processing technology of a novel PBT composite yarn-based super-high elastic fabric, which comprises a pretreatment technology, a dyeing technology and a sizing technology; the pretreatment process comprises an OS open width desizing process and a BO open width desizing process; the dyeing agent adopted by the dyeing process consists of a dyeing auxiliary agent and a dye; the dyeing process comprises the following steps: injecting a dyeing auxiliary agent and dye when the temperature of a dye vat reaches 40 ℃, then raising the temperature of the dye vat to 50 ℃ at a temperature raising speed of 1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for 5min, raising the temperature to 75 ℃ at a temperature raising speed of 0.8 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10min, raising the temperature to 100 ℃ at a temperature raising speed of 0.6 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10min, raising the temperature to 130 ℃ at a temperature raising speed of 1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for 60min, and then reducing the temperature to 70 ℃ at a temperature lowering speed of 1.2 ℃/min; the ultrahigh elastic fabric treated by the process has no defects such as crepe printing and the like, and has good dyeing effect, excellent smoothness and resilience, and excellent waterproof performance, antistatic performance, physical performance and chemical performance.

Description

Dyeing and finishing processing technology of novel ultra-high elastic fabric based on PBT composite yarn
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to a dyeing and finishing processing technology of a novel ultra-high elastic fabric based on PBT composite yarns.
Background
The ultra-high elastic (BEY) fabric has become a popular product in the textile market, and the reason for the ultra-high elastic fabric is that the ultra-high elastic (BEY) fabric has higher resilience and cotton-like performance compared with T400 fabric, and the ultra-high elastic fabric grey cloth is cheaper than T400 fabric, so that the ultra-high elastic fabric is more easily accepted by the public.
The ultra-high elastic fabric is a novel elastic fabric woven by taking novel ultra-high elastic fiber BEY as a raw material. Because the ultrahigh elastic fiber is prepared by PBT and PET composite spinning, the crystallization properties of the two molecules are different, and the ultrahigh elastic fiber shows different shrinkage properties when being stimulated by the external environment, thereby endowing the fiber with the elasticity characteristic. The super-high elastic BEY fabric belongs to an elastic product, is similar to a CEY fabric series, and has better elasticity than a common CEY fabric.
The fabric has a plurality of excellent characteristics:
(1) compared with a T400 fabric, the super-high elastic BEY fabric has higher resilience, the super-high elastic BEY fabric has good elasticity before pretreatment, and has extremely high resilience and special cotton feeling after pretreatment and after finishing;
(2) the super-high elastic BEY fabric has excellent physical properties, good crease resistance and extremely low shrinkage rate, so that the finished product of clothes is more washable; compared with the conventional CEY fabric, the wear-resistant fabric has better tear strength and breaking strength, is more wear-resistant in daily life, and has higher friction resistance grade.
(3) The super-high elastic BEY fabric has excellent chemical stability, and is made of super-high elastic fiber and does not contain spandex filaments, so that the color fastness of the fabric is greatly improved compared with that of a spandex-containing four-side elastic fabric and the like.
The existing dyeing and finishing process technology is not suitable for the ultrahigh elastic fabric; in the dyeing and finishing process, the conditions of color difference, uneven dyeing, wrinkle printing and the like of the fabric are easy to occur due to improper use of processes or parameters, and the fabric cannot be ensured to have better smoothness and elasticity; therefore, a proper dyeing and finishing process needs to be developed to be suitable for the ultrahigh elastic BEY fabric, so as to ensure that the processed fabric is dyed uniformly and has better smoothness and elasticity.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention aims to provide a dyeing and finishing process for an ultrahigh elastic fabric. According to the characteristics of the fabric, the proper pretreatment process, dyeing process and sizing process are formulated, so that the treated fabric has no defects such as crinkles and the like, and has good dyeing effect, excellent smoothness and resilience, and excellent waterproof performance, antistatic performance, physical performance and chemical performance.
In order to achieve the technical purpose and achieve the technical effect, the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
a dyeing and finishing processing technology of a super-high elastic fabric comprises a pretreatment technology, a dyeing technology and a sizing technology which are sequentially carried out; the pretreatment process comprises an OS open width desizing process and a BO open width desizing process;
the prescription and conditions of the OS open-width desizing process are as follows:
Figure BDA0002666096640000021
the prescription and conditions of the BO open width desizing process are as follows:
Figure BDA0002666096640000022
Figure BDA0002666096640000031
the dyeing process is to dye the pretreated gray fabric of the ultrahigh elastic fabric; the dyeing agent adopted by the dyeing process consists of a dyeing auxiliary agent and a dye, wherein the dye is a disperse dye; the dyeing process comprises the following steps: sequentially injecting a dyeing auxiliary agent and a dye when the temperature of a dye vat of a dyeing machine reaches 40 ℃, then raising the temperature of the dye vat to 50 ℃ at a temperature rise speed of 1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for 5min, raising the temperature to 75 ℃ at a temperature rise speed of 0.8 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10min, raising the temperature to 100 ℃ at a temperature rise speed of 0.6 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10min, raising the temperature to 130 ℃ at a temperature rise speed of 1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for 60min, then reducing the temperature to 70 ℃ at a temperature reduction speed of 1.2 ℃/min, and then washing the dyed grey cloth with water;
the shaping process is used for carrying out shaping treatment on the dyed ultra-high elastic fabric gray fabric through a shaping machine by utilizing a shaping treatment liquid.
Further, the temperature of the OS open-width desizing process is 95 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 40 m/min; the temperature of the BO open-width desizing process is 95 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 40 m/min.
Further, after the treatment of the OS open width desizing process and the BO open width desizing process, the width of the ultra-high elastic fabric gray fabric is 152 cm.
As a preferred technical scheme of the invention, the dyeing auxiliary agent in the dyeing process comprises a slipping agent and a high-temperature leveling agent, and the disperse dye comprises disperse black NP-PX, disperse orange NP-4R and disperse ruby NP-5B; the dyeing process has the following formula:
Figure BDA0002666096640000032
Figure BDA0002666096640000041
as another preferred technical scheme of the invention, the dyeing auxiliary agent in the dyeing process comprises a slipping agent and a high-temperature leveling agent, and the disperse dye comprises disperse navy blue HL-N, disperse orange NP-4R and disperse ruby NP-5B; the dyeing process has the following formula:
Figure BDA0002666096640000042
furthermore, each liter of the sizing treatment fluid used in the sizing process contains 20 g of water proofing agent STD-410S and 10 g of antistatic agent AN-2052.
Furthermore, the shaping temperature of the shaping process is 180 ℃, the vehicle speed is 40m/min, and the rotating speed of the fan is 1800 r/min.
Further, after the shaping process treatment, the width of the ultra-high elastic fabric gray fabric is 155 cm.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages and effects:
(1) the pretreatment process firstly carries out OS open-width desizing treatment, namely tension desizing treatment, so that the cloth surface is smooth, and then carries out BO open-width desizing treatment, namely tension-free desizing treatment, so that the cloth surface has better hand feeling. The long-vehicle rapid desizing agent TF-127B added in the open-width desizing process can oxidize and degrade the common polyacrylic acid sizing agent macromolecules in the fibers to form micromolecule chain segments with good water solubility, and then the micromolecule chain segments fall off from the fibers in the open-width process, so that cloth cover sizing agent, oiling agent and the like are effectively removed, and the subsequent processing is facilitated;
the ultrahigh-elasticity fabric is made of PET fibers and PBT fibers, and the high elasticity of the PBT can be combined with the high-efficiency alkali amount of an open-width desizing machine, a tension desizing process and a tension-free desizing process, so that the effect of flattening the cloth cover is realized, the fabric keeps excellent flatness and resilience of the cloth cover in the subsequent dyeing and finishing process, and the finally obtained fabric has no defects such as wrinkle printing and the like;
(2) the dyeing process adopts environment-friendly disperse dye for dyeing; the disperse dye is relatively suitable for dyeing the super high-elastic fabric; the slipping agent VS in the coloring agent has good acid regulating effect; the high-temperature leveling agent TF-212K has an excellent leveling effect, so that the problem of dyeing defects on the cloth surface is solved;
according to the invention, a specific dyeing process is designed according to the characteristics of the ultrahigh elastic fabric; the super-high elastic fabric is made of PET fibers and PBT fibers, wherein the critical dye-uptake temperature of the PET fibers is 75-120 ℃, the maximum color-obtaining temperature is 125-130 ℃, and the cloth cover color-obtaining rate is lower before the temperature is 75 ℃; the critical dye-uptake temperature of the PBT fiber is 50 ℃, and the cloth cover color yield is lower before the temperature is 50 ℃, so that the critical temperature of the two fibers is combined, and the heating rate can be faster before 50 ℃; when the temperature reaches 75 ℃, the dye begins to color in a large amount, the cloth surface begins to shrink, and wrinkles are easy to appear, so that the heating rate needs to be slowed down; a heat preservation section is added after the temperature is increased, so that the fiber can fully absorb the dye in the temperature section, and meanwhile, the occurrence of color difference of color flowers can be avoided;
the dyeing process adopts a bath ratio of 1:8-1:10 and a larger dyeing liquid amount, so that the impact force on the fabric and the dye is large during dyeing, the fabric is fully operated, the dye is more easily dispersed uniformly and is not easy to agglomerate, the generation of defects is reduced, the dyeing uniformity is ensured, and the phenomenon of dyeing defects is avoided;
(3) in the setting process, the waterproof agent is adopted to enable the ultrahigh elastic fabric to have excellent waterproof performance, and the antistatic agent is adopted to enable the ultrahigh elastic fabric to have excellent antistatic performance; in addition, the setting temperature is 180 ℃, so that the ultrahigh elastic fabric is not easy to deform after being washed with water for many times through high-temperature setting.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a dyeing temperature process curve in the dyeing process of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the present invention will be described clearly and completely with reference to the following specific embodiments, but it should be apparent that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1
Ultra-high elastic fabric gray fabric: the width of the white blank is 195 cm; white billet square meter gram weight: 78g/m2(ii) a The warp direction adopts ultra-high elastic fiber BEY with the specification of 75D/48F, the warp density is 32 pieces/10 cm, the weft direction adopts ultra-high elastic fiber BEY with the specification of 75D/48F, and the weft density is 99 pieces/10 cm;
the raw materials and equipment adopted in this example are as follows:
dye: disperse black NP-PX, disperse orange NP-4R, disperse red jade NP-5B (Zhejiang Longsheng group Co., Ltd.);
auxiliary agent: glide agent VS (wujiang socap chemical limited); TF-212K as a high-temperature leveling agent and TF-127B as a long-vehicle rapid desizing agent (Zhejiang department of infectious diseases Co., Ltd.); waterproof agent STD-410S (Suzhou Si Dan Ding textile science and technology Co., Ltd.); antistatic agent AN-2052 (Jiaxinghua sanden auxiliary agent industries, Ltd.).
Equipment: an open width desizing machine OS-2000, an open width desizing machine BO-2000 (Honglong dyeing and finishing machinery, Inc. of Taiwan, China); TWRU-RK-2-300 (HaininYaoton mechanical Limited company) of a guide-wheel-free jet dyeing machine; a setting machine Megatex-III (Korea Meiguan Co., Ltd.);
the dyeing and finishing processing technology of the ultrahigh elastic fabric comprises a pretreatment technology, a dyeing technology and a sizing technology which are sequentially carried out; the pretreatment process comprises an OS open width desizing process and a BO open width desizing process;
the recipe and conditions for the OS open width desizing (tension desizing) process are as follows:
Figure BDA0002666096640000071
the prescription and conditions of the BO open width desizing (tensionless desizing) process are as follows:
Figure BDA0002666096640000072
after the treatment of the OS open width desizing process and the BO open width desizing process, the width of the ultra-high elastic fabric gray fabric is 152 cm.
According to the desizing process, the fabric is subjected to OS open width desizing treatment, namely tension desizing treatment, so that the fabric surface is smooth, and then BO open width desizing treatment, namely tension-free desizing treatment, is performed, so that the fabric surface has better hand feeling. The long-vehicle rapid desizing agent TF-127B added in the open-width desizing process can oxidize and degrade the common polyacrylic acid sizing agent macromolecules in the fibers to form micromolecule chain segments with better water solubility, and then the micromolecule chain segments fall off from the fibers in the open-width process, so that cloth cover sizing agent, oiling agent and the like are effectively removed, and the subsequent processing is facilitated;
the ultrahigh elastic fabric is made of PET fibers and PBT fibers, and the high elasticity of the PBT can be combined with the high-efficiency alkali amount of the open width desizing machine, the tension desizing process and the tension-free desizing process, so that the effect of flattening the cloth cover is realized, the smoothness and the resilience of the cloth cover are kept in the subsequent dyeing and finishing process of the fabric, and finally the obtained fabric has no defects such as wrinkle printing and the like.
After the desizing process treatment, a dyeing process is carried out; the dyeing agent adopted by the dyeing process consists of a dyeing auxiliary agent and a dye, wherein the dye is a disperse dye and comprises disperse black NP-PX, disperse orange NP-4R and disperse ruby NP-5B; the dyeing auxiliary agent comprises a slipping agent and a high-temperature leveling agent;
the dyeing process has the following formula:
Figure BDA0002666096640000081
wherein each dye amount is referred to as a weight percent of the fabric, i.e., (owf).
The disperse dyes are high-temperature environment-friendly dyes, the slipping agent VS has a good acid regulating effect, and the high-temperature leveling agent TF-212K has an excellent leveling effect, so that the problem of dyeing defects on the cloth surface is solved.
As shown in fig. 1, the dyeing process is an overflow dyeing process, and the specific process is as follows: when the temperature of a dyeing cylinder of a dyeing machine reaches 40 ℃, a dyeing auxiliary agent and a dye are injected in sequence, then the temperature of the dyeing cylinder is increased to 50 ℃ at the temperature increasing speed of 1.0 ℃/min, the temperature is kept for 5min, then is increased to 75 ℃ at the temperature increasing speed of 0.8 ℃/min, the temperature is kept for 10min, then is increased to 100 ℃ at the temperature increasing speed of 0.6 ℃/min, the temperature is kept for 10min, then is increased to 130 ℃ at the temperature increasing speed of 1.0 ℃/min, the temperature is kept for 60min, then is reduced to 70 ℃ at the temperature reducing speed of 1.2 ℃/min, and then the dyed grey cloth is washed with water.
The ultrahigh-elasticity fabric in the embodiment 1 is made of PET fibers and PBT fibers, wherein the critical dye-uptake temperature of the PET fibers is 75-120 ℃, the maximum color-obtaining temperature is 125-130 ℃, and the cloth cover color-obtaining rate is lower before the temperature is 75 ℃; the critical dye-uptake temperature of the PBT fiber is 50 ℃, and the fabric color yield is lower before the temperature is 50 ℃, so that the critical temperature of the two fibers is combined, and the heating rate can be faster before the temperature is 50 ℃; when the temperature reaches 75 ℃, a large amount of dye begins to be colored, the cloth surface begins to shrink, and wrinkles are easy to appear, so that the temperature rise rate needs to be reduced; a heat preservation section is added after the temperature is increased, so that the fiber can fully absorb the dye in the temperature section, and meanwhile, the occurrence of color difference of color flowers can be avoided; after the heat preservation stage is finished, the temperature is continuously raised to 130 ℃ at the temperature rise speed of 1.0 ℃/min, heat preservation is carried out, in the process, the dye uptake of the fabric grey cloth is gradually and rapidly increased, and the highest point is reached at 130 ℃.
The dyeing process adopts a bath ratio of 1:10 and a larger dyeing liquid amount, so that the impact force on the fabric and the dye is large during dyeing, the fabric is fully operated, the dye is more easily dispersed uniformly and is not easy to agglomerate, the generation of defects is reduced, the dyeing uniformity is ensured, and the phenomenon of dyeing defects is avoided.
The dye adopted in the embodiment 1 consists of disperse black NP-PX, disperse orange NP-4R and disperse ruby NP-5B, and a good dyeing effect can be obtained, so that the fabric treated by the dyeing process has excellent dyeing fastness.
After dyeing, dehydrating, scutching and then shaping the gray fabric of the ultra-high elastic fabric; and in the shaping process, the dyed ultra-high elastic fabric grey cloth is shaped by a shaping machine and shaping treatment liquid.
In the setting treatment liquid used in the setting process, each liter of the setting treatment liquid contains 20 g of a waterproof agent STD-410S and 10 g of AN antistatic agent AN-2052. The shaping temperature of the shaping process is 180 ℃, the vehicle speed is 40m/min, and the rotating speed of the fan is 1800 r/min.
In the setting process, the waterproof agent is adopted to enable the ultrahigh elastic fabric to have excellent waterproof performance, and the antistatic agent is adopted to enable the ultrahigh elastic fabric to have excellent antistatic performance; in addition, the setting temperature is 180 ℃, so that the ultrahigh elastic fabric is not easy to deform after being washed with water for many times through high-temperature setting.
After the shaping process treatment, the width of the ultra-high elastic fabric gray fabric is 155 cm.
Example 2
Ultra-high elastic fabric gray fabric: the width of the white blank is 195 cm; white billet square meter gram weight: 78g/m2(ii) a The warp direction adopts ultra-high elastic fiber BEY with the specification of 75D/48F, the warp density is 32 pieces/10 cm, the weft direction adopts ultra-high elastic fiber BEY with the specification of 75D/48F, and the weft density is 99 pieces/10 cm;
the raw materials and equipment adopted in this example are as follows:
dye: disperse navy HL-N, disperse orange NP-4R, disperse red jade NP-5B (Zhejiang Longsheng group GmbH Co., Ltd.);
auxiliary agent: glide agent VS (wujiang socap chemical limited); TF-212K as a high-temperature leveling agent and TF-127B as a long-vehicle rapid desizing agent (Zhejiang department of infectious diseases Co., Ltd.); waterproof agent STD-410S (Suzhou Si Dan Ding textile science and technology Co., Ltd.); antistatic agent AN-2052 (Jiaxinghua sanden auxiliary agent industries, Ltd.).
Equipment: an open width desizing machine OS-2000, an open width desizing machine BO-2000 (Honglong dyeing and finishing machinery, Inc. of Taiwan, China); TWRU-RK-2-300 (HaininYaoton mechanical Limited company) of a guide-wheel-free jet dyeing machine; a setting machine Megatex-III (Korea Meiguan Co., Ltd.);
the dyeing and finishing processing technology of the ultrahigh elastic fabric comprises a pretreatment technology, a dyeing technology and a sizing technology which are sequentially carried out; the pretreatment process comprises an OS open width desizing process and a BO open width desizing process;
the recipe and conditions for the OS open width desizing (tension desizing) process are as follows:
Figure BDA0002666096640000101
the prescription and conditions of the BO open width desizing (tensionless desizing) process are as follows:
Figure BDA0002666096640000102
Figure BDA0002666096640000111
after the treatment of the OS open width desizing process and the BO open width desizing process, the width of the ultra-high elastic fabric gray fabric is 152 cm.
According to the desizing process, the fabric is subjected to OS open width desizing treatment, namely tension desizing treatment, so that the fabric surface is smooth, and then BO open width desizing treatment, namely tension-free desizing treatment, is performed, so that the fabric surface has better hand feeling. The long-vehicle rapid desizing agent TF-127B added in the open-width desizing process can oxidize and degrade the common polyacrylic acid sizing agent macromolecules in the fibers to form micromolecule chain segments with better water solubility, and then the micromolecule chain segments fall off from the fibers in the open-width process, so that cloth cover sizing agent, oiling agent and the like are effectively removed, and the subsequent processing is facilitated;
the ultrahigh elastic fabric is made of PET fibers and PBT fibers, and the high elasticity of the PBT can be combined with the high-efficiency alkali amount of the open width desizing machine, the tension desizing process and the tension-free desizing process, so that the effect of flattening the cloth cover is realized, the smoothness and the resilience of the cloth cover are kept in the subsequent dyeing and finishing process of the fabric, and finally the obtained fabric has no defects such as wrinkle printing and the like.
After the desizing process treatment, a dyeing process is carried out; the dyeing agent adopted by the dyeing process consists of a dyeing auxiliary agent and a dye, wherein the dye is a disperse dye which comprises disperse navy blue HL-N, disperse orange NP-4R and disperse ruby NP-5B; the dyeing auxiliary agent comprises a slipping agent and a high-temperature leveling agent;
the dyeing process has the following formula:
Figure BDA0002666096640000112
Figure BDA0002666096640000121
wherein each dye amount is referred to as a weight percent of the fabric, i.e., (owf).
The disperse dyes are high-temperature environment-friendly dyes, the slipping agent VS has a good acid regulating effect, and the high-temperature leveling agent TF-212K has an excellent leveling effect, so that the problem of dyeing defects on the cloth surface is solved.
As shown in fig. 1, the dyeing process is an overflow dyeing process, and the specific process is as follows: when the temperature of a dyeing cylinder of a dyeing machine reaches 40 ℃, a dyeing auxiliary agent and a dye are injected in sequence, then the temperature of the dyeing cylinder is increased to 50 ℃ at the temperature increasing speed of 1.0 ℃/min, the temperature is kept for 5min, then is increased to 75 ℃ at the temperature increasing speed of 0.8 ℃/min, the temperature is kept for 10min, then is increased to 100 ℃ at the temperature increasing speed of 0.6 ℃/min, the temperature is kept for 10min, then is increased to 130 ℃ at the temperature increasing speed of 1.0 ℃/min, the temperature is kept for 60min, then is reduced to 70 ℃ at the temperature reducing speed of 1.2 ℃/min, and then the dyed grey cloth is washed with water.
The ultrahigh-elasticity fabric of the embodiment 2 is made of PET fibers and PBT fibers, wherein the critical dye-uptake temperature of the PET fibers is 75-120 ℃, the maximum color-obtaining temperature is 125-130 ℃, and the cloth cover color-obtaining rate is lower before the temperature is 75 ℃; the critical dye-uptake temperature of the PBT fiber is 50 ℃, and the fabric color yield is lower before the temperature is 50 ℃, so that the critical temperature of the two fibers is combined, and the heating rate can be faster before the temperature is 50 ℃; when the temperature reaches 75 ℃, a large amount of dye begins to be colored, the cloth surface begins to shrink, and wrinkles are easy to appear, so that the temperature rise rate needs to be reduced; a heat preservation section is added after the temperature is increased, so that the fiber can fully absorb the dye in the temperature section, and meanwhile, the occurrence of color difference of color flowers can be avoided; after the heat preservation stage is finished, the temperature is continuously raised to 130 ℃ at the temperature rise speed of 1.0 ℃/min, heat preservation is carried out, in the process, the dye uptake of the fabric grey cloth is gradually and rapidly increased, and the highest point is reached at 130 ℃.
The dyeing process adopts a bath ratio of 1:10 and a larger dyeing liquid amount, so that the impact force on the fabric and the dye is large during dyeing, the fabric is fully operated, the dye is more easily dispersed uniformly and is not easy to agglomerate, the generation of defects is reduced, the dyeing uniformity is ensured, and the phenomenon of dyeing defects is avoided.
The dye adopted in the embodiment 2 consists of dispersed navy blue HL-N, dispersed orange NP-4R and dispersed ruby NP-5B, and a good dyeing effect can be obtained, so that the fabric treated by the dyeing process has excellent dyeing fastness.
After dyeing, dehydrating, scutching and then shaping the gray fabric of the ultra-high elastic fabric; and in the shaping process, the dyed ultra-high elastic fabric grey cloth is shaped by a shaping machine and shaping treatment liquid.
In the setting treatment liquid used in the setting process, each liter of the setting treatment liquid contains 20 g of a waterproof agent STD-410S and 10 g of AN antistatic agent AN-2052. The shaping temperature of the shaping process is 180 ℃, the vehicle speed is 40m/min, and the rotating speed of the fan is 1800 r/min.
In the setting process, the waterproof agent is adopted to enable the ultrahigh elastic fabric to have excellent waterproof performance, and the antistatic agent is adopted to enable the ultrahigh elastic fabric to have excellent antistatic performance; in addition, the setting temperature is 180 ℃, so that the ultrahigh elastic fabric is not easy to deform after being washed with water for many times through high-temperature setting.
After the shaping process treatment, the width of the ultra-high elastic fabric gray fabric is 155 cm.
Performance testing
The performance test criteria are as follows:
color fastness to washing, tested according to ISO 105/C06-2010A 2S "color fastness to household and commercial washing";
testing the color fastness to perspiration according to GB/T3922-2013 'color fastness to perspiration test' of textile color fastness;
the color fastness to rubbing is tested according to GB/T3920-2008 'color fastness to rubbing' test for textiles;
tear Performance according to GB/T3917.1.2009 "tear Performance for textile fabrics: determination of tearing strength by impact pendulum method ";
and (3) seam slippage performance according to GB/T13772.2.2008 determination of yarn slippage resistance of textile woven fabric seams: testing by a constant load method;
tensile Properties according to GB/T3923.1.1997 tensile Properties of textile fabrics: testing breaking strength and breaking elongation;
the dimensional change was tested according to GB/T8628:2013 preparation, marking and measurement of textile samples in the test for determining dimensional change in textiles.
The results of the performance tests of the ultra-high elastic fabrics treated by the dyeing and finishing processes of examples 1 and 2 are shown in table 1.
Table 1 results of performance test of ultra-high elastic fabrics in example 1 and example 2
Figure BDA0002666096640000141
As can be seen from table 1, the ultra-high elastic fabric treated by the dyeing and finishing processes of examples 1 and 2 has excellent color fastness to washing, sweat stain and rubbing, good physical properties, and good smoothness and resilience of the fabric surface.
The above description is only an embodiment of the present invention, and not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and all modifications of equivalent structures and equivalent processes, which are made by the contents of the present specification and the accompanying drawings, or directly or indirectly applied to other related technical fields, are included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (8)

1. A dyeing and finishing process of a novel ultra-high elastic fabric based on PBT composite yarns is characterized by comprising the following steps: the dyeing and finishing processing technology comprises a pretreatment technology, a dyeing technology and a sizing technology which are sequentially carried out; the pretreatment process comprises an OS open width desizing process and a BO open width desizing process;
the prescription and conditions of the OS open-width desizing process are as follows:
Figure FDA0002666096630000011
the prescription and conditions of the BO open width desizing process are as follows:
Figure FDA0002666096630000012
the dyeing process is to dye the pretreated gray fabric of the ultrahigh elastic fabric; the dyeing agent adopted by the dyeing process consists of a dyeing auxiliary agent and a dye, wherein the dye is a disperse dye; the dyeing process comprises the following steps: injecting dyeing auxiliary agents and dyes in sequence when the temperature of a dye vat of a dyeing machine reaches 40 ℃, then raising the temperature of the dye vat to 50 ℃ at a temperature raising speed of 1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for 5min, raising the temperature to 75 ℃ at a temperature raising speed of 0.8 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10min, raising the temperature to 100 ℃ at a temperature raising speed of 0.6 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10min, raising the temperature to 130 ℃ at a temperature raising speed of 1.0 ℃/min, preserving heat for 60min, then lowering the temperature to 70 ℃ at a temperature lowering speed of 1.2 ℃/min, and then washing the dyed grey cloth with water;
the shaping process is used for carrying out shaping treatment on the dyed ultra-high elastic fabric gray fabric through a shaping machine by utilizing a shaping treatment liquid.
2. The dyeing and finishing process of the novel PBT composite yarn-based super-high elastic fabric, according to claim 1, is characterized in that: the temperature of the OS open-width desizing process is 95 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 40 m/min; the temperature of the BO open-width desizing process is 95 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 40 m/min.
3. The dyeing and finishing process of the novel PBT composite yarn-based super-high elastic fabric, according to claim 1, is characterized in that: after the treatment of the OS open width desizing process and the BO open width desizing process, the width of the ultra-high elastic fabric gray fabric is 152 cm.
4. The dyeing and finishing process of the novel PBT composite yarn-based super-high elastic fabric, according to claim 1, is characterized in that: the dyeing auxiliary agent in the dyeing process comprises a slipping agent and a high-temperature leveling agent, and the disperse dye comprises disperse black NP-PX, disperse orange NP-4R and disperse ruby NP-5B; the dyeing process has the following formula:
Figure FDA0002666096630000021
5. the dyeing and finishing process of the novel PBT composite yarn-based super-high elastic fabric, according to claim 1, is characterized in that: the dyeing auxiliary agent in the dyeing process comprises a slipping agent and a high-temperature leveling agent, and the disperse dye comprises disperse navy blue HL-N, disperse orange NP-4R and disperse red jade NP-5B; the dyeing process has the following formula:
Figure FDA0002666096630000022
Figure FDA0002666096630000031
6. the dyeing and finishing process of the novel PBT composite yarn-based super-high elastic fabric, according to claim 1, is characterized in that: in the setting treatment liquid used in the setting process, each liter of the setting treatment liquid contains 20 g of a waterproof agent STD-410S and 10 g of AN antistatic agent AN-2052.
7. The dyeing and finishing process of the novel PBT composite yarn-based super-high elastic fabric, according to claim 1, is characterized in that: the shaping temperature of the shaping process is 180 ℃, the vehicle speed is 40m/min, and the rotating speed of the fan is 1800 r/min.
8. The dyeing and finishing process of the novel PBT composite yarn-based super-high elastic fabric, according to claim 1, is characterized in that: after the shaping process treatment, the width of the ultra-high elastic fabric gray fabric is 155 cm.
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