CN110983591A - Manufacturing process of hole-broken knitted jean fabric - Google Patents
Manufacturing process of hole-broken knitted jean fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN110983591A CN110983591A CN201911204350.9A CN201911204350A CN110983591A CN 110983591 A CN110983591 A CN 110983591A CN 201911204350 A CN201911204350 A CN 201911204350A CN 110983591 A CN110983591 A CN 110983591A
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- cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
Abstract
The invention relates to the technical field of fabric manufacturing, in particular to a manufacturing process of a hole-broken knitted jean fabric, which comprises the following steps of: selecting cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns and spandex, wherein the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns comprise a core layer and a skin layer; weaving: weaving cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns, cotton-covered polyester and spandex into knitted grey cloth; grey cloth sizing: carrying out fusion shaping on the knitted grey cloth by adopting a shaping machine; dyeing: dyeing the knitted grey cloth to color the cortex of the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn to obtain dyed cloth; physical friction: carrying out physical friction treatment on the dyed cloth, and brushing off part of the cortex of the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn by utilizing the physical friction treatment so as to expose the core layer; and (3) hole breaking treatment: compared with the prior art, the hole breaking effect is generated by polishing or cutting with the grinding wheel, the stable net-shaped structure is formed by spandex after high-temperature shaping by utilizing the characteristics of the spandex, and the core-spun yarn is fixed, so that the fabric is not easy to fall apart after hole breaking treatment.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of fabric manufacturing, in particular to a manufacturing process of a hole-broken knitted jean fabric.
Background
The hole-breaking cowboys look more forward in vision, give people a feeling of being very wet, and can make people feel that the people are very active, so that the hole-breaking cowboys lead to the fierce tide pursued by young people once appearing.
The knitted jean is soft in texture, has good crease resistance and air permeability, has larger extensibility and elasticity, and is comfortable to wear, but the knitted fabric is formed by stringing yarns and coils, and is easy to fall off if the knitted fabric is not cut according to a specific direction and an angle, so that the production of the knitted hole-broken jean is limited due to the characteristic.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to overcome the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a manufacturing process of a hole-broken knitted jean fabric, which can solve the problem that the jean fabric is easy to loose after the hole is broken compared with the traditional jean fabric.
The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: the application provides a manufacturing process of a hole-broken knitted jean fabric, which is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps:
(1) selecting materials: selecting cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns and spandex, wherein the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns comprise a core layer and a skin layer;
(2) weaving: weaving cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns, cotton-covered polyester and spandex into knitted grey cloth;
(3) grey cloth sizing: fusing and shaping the knitted grey cloth by a shaping machine, wherein the shaping temperature is 170-220 ℃, the machine speed is 10-50m/min, and the overfeeding is 0-80%;
(4) dyeing: dyeing the knitted grey cloth to color the cortex of the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn to obtain dyed cloth;
(5) physical friction: carrying out physical friction treatment on the dyed cloth, and brushing off part of the cortex of the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn by utilizing the physical friction treatment so as to expose the core layer;
(6) and (3) hole breaking treatment: and grinding or cutting by using a grinding wheel to generate a hole-breaking effect.
Wherein, the weight of the core layer accounts for 40-60%, and the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn is 20S/1 cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn.
Wherein the weight percentage of the spandex is 3% -10%, and the spandex is 40D low-temperature thermal bonding spandex.
Wherein, in step (2), the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn, the cotton-covered polyester and the spandex are woven by adopting an oblique weaving method, wherein the pin header structure is as follows: six looping systems form a basic cycle; one basic cycle is: the first and second needle paths in the first looping system are flat needles, and the third needle path in the first looping system is a full needle; the first needle path and the third needle path in the third looping system are flat needles, and the second needle path in the third looping system is full needles; the second and third needle paths in the fifth looping system are flat needles, and the first needle path in the fifth looping system is a full needle; the first needle way, the second needle way and the third needle way in the second looping system, the fourth looping system and the sixth looping system are full needles; the first, third and fifth needle paths are cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns, and the second, fourth and sixth needle paths are spandex and cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns.
Wherein the physical friction treatment is one of carbon fiber bristle, sand paper sanding and stone grinding.
Wherein, the specific operation of bristle treatment is: brushing roller speed: 10-40 m/min; the running speed of the fabric is 5-20m/min, and the linear speed of a cloth feeding roller is as follows: 3-16m/mim, linear speed of cloth outlet roller: 5-25 m/mim.
Wherein, the step (4) also comprises the step (4.1) of boiling and bleaching treatment, the bath ratio of the boiling and bleaching is 1:6-10, the temperature is 80-105 ℃, and the time is 20-60 min.
Wherein, the step (4) also comprises the step (4.2) of polishing enzyme polishing treatment, the pH value of the step (2.2) of polishing enzyme polishing treatment is 6-7.5, the temperature is 30-50 ℃, and the time is 10-40 min.
Wherein the step (4) also comprises the step (4.3) of dyeing treatment, the bath ratio is 1:6-10, the temperature is 50-80 ℃, and the time is 30-90 min.
Wherein, the step (4) further comprises the step (4.4) of color fixation, and the specific operation of the color fixation is as follows: the bath ratio is 1:6-10, the temperature is 40-70 deg.C, and the time is 10-40 min.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: in the invention, spandex and cotton-covered polyester are combined for weaving, in the heat setting process, a hard chain segment area is heated and softened when the fiber is in an extension state, and part of the hard chain segment area flows, after cooling and removing exogenic action, the changed area is solidified at a new stable position, and by utilizing the characteristics of the spandex, the spandex forms a stable net structure after high-temperature setting, and meanwhile, polyester-cotton yarns are fixed, so that the fabric is not easy to fall off after hole breaking treatment; the fiber interweaving part is heated and melted to form bonding points, and the bonding points distributed in a net shape fix each fiber, so that even if one or more yarns of the fabric are broken, the bonding points can prevent the broken holes caused by the loose and sliding of the yarns from further expanding after the spandex-containing fabric is scraped, cut or repeatedly stretched.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a distribution diagram of the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn and spandex when the fabric of the embodiment is woven.
Fig. 2 is a schematic view of needle arrangement during weaving of the fabric of the embodiment.
Detailed Description
For the understanding of those skilled in the art, the present invention will be further described with reference to the following examples and accompanying fig. 1-2, which are not intended to limit the present invention.
Example 1
A manufacturing process of a hole-broken knitted jean fabric comprises the following steps: (1) selecting materials: selecting cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns and spandex, wherein the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns comprise a core layer and a skin layer. Specifically, the weight of the core layer accounts for 40-60%, the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn is 20S/1 cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn, the core layer is polyester fiber, and the denier of the polyester fiber is 150D. In other alternative embodiments, the denier of the polyester fiber may be 30D, 40D, 50D, 60D, 70D, 80D, 90D, 100D, 110D, 120D, 130D, 140D, 160D, 170D, 180D, 190D, 200D, 210D, 220D, 230D, 240D, 250D, 260D, 270D, 280D, 290D, 300D, etc. The cortex is a blended yarn of cotton and viscose. The weight percentage of the spandex is 3% -10%, and the spandex is 40D low-temperature thermal bonding spandex. The cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn and the low-temperature heat-bonding spandex can be heated and melted in the dyeing or heat setting processing link, the fiber interweaving part is heated and melted to form a sticky point, and the sticky points distributed in a net shape fix each fiber, so that even if one or more yarns of the fabric are broken, the sticky point can prevent the broken hole of the spandex-containing fabric, which is caused by the fact that the yarns are scattered and slide after scraping, cutting or repeatedly stretching, from being further enlarged.
(2) Weaving: referring to fig. 1, the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn, the cotton-covered polyester and spandex are woven into a knitted grey fabric. In the step (2), please refer to fig. 2, wherein the label 1 is viscose/cotton polyester, the label 2 is viscose/cotton polyester +40D spandex, and the cotton polyester core spun yarn and the cotton polyester and spandex are woven by a reverse oblique weaving method with a row needle of 1, 2 and 3. Referring to fig. 2, the specific pin header structure is: six looping systems form a basic cycle; one basic cycle is: the first and second needle paths in the first looping system are flat needles, and the third needle path in the first looping system is a full needle; the first needle path and the third needle path in the third looping system are flat needles, and the second needle path in the third looping system is full needles; the second and third needle paths in the fifth looping system are flat needles, and the first needle path in the fifth looping system is a full needle; the first needle way, the second needle way and the third needle way in the second looping system, the fourth looping system and the sixth looping system are full needles; the second, fourth and sixth stitches are viscose/cotton polyester and 40D spandex (yarn row at B in figure 2). The second, fourth and sixth needle paths are viscose/cotton polyester (yarn arrangement at A in figure 2).
(3) Grey cloth sizing: the knitting grey cloth is melted and shaped by a shaping machine, the shaping temperature is 170-220 ℃, the machine speed is 10-50m/min, and the overfeeding is 0-80%. In the process of heat setting of the low-temperature thermal bonding spandex, a hard chain segment area is heated and softened when a fiber is in an extension state, part of the hard chain segment area flows, after cooling and removing exogenic action, the changed area is solidified at a new stable position, the spandex forms a stable net structure after high-temperature setting by utilizing the characteristics of the spandex and matching with a weaving method, and meanwhile, the polyester cotton yarns are fixed, so that the fabric is not easy to fall off after hole breaking treatment.
(4) Dyeing: dyeing the knitted grey cloth to color the cortex of the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn to obtain the dyed cloth.
(5) Physical friction: and carrying out physical friction treatment on the dyed cloth, and brushing off the cortex of part of the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn by utilizing the physical friction treatment so as to expose the core layer.
(6) And (3) hole breaking treatment: and grinding or cutting by using a grinding wheel to generate a hole-breaking effect.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the core layer is 58%.
In other alternative embodiments, the core layer may have a weight ratio of 38%, 42%, 44%, 46%, 48%, 50%, 52%, 53%, 54%, 55%, 56%, 57%, 59%, 60%, etc., and the ratio may be selected according to different style requirements.
Wherein, the physical friction in the step (5) is bristle treatment, and the bristle treatment comprises the following specific operations: brushing roller speed: 21 m/min; the running speed of the fabric is 13m/min, and the linear speed of a cloth feeding roller is as follows: 7m/mim, linear speed of cloth discharging roller: 13 m/mim.
In other alternative embodiments, the bristle roll speed may be 10m/min, 12m/min, 15m/min, 17m/min, 20m/min, 20.5m/min, 21.5m/min, 22m/min, 25m/min, 27m/min, 30m/min, 35m/min, 40m/min, etc., the fabric run speed may be 5m/min, 7m/min, 9m/min, 10m/min, 11m/min, 12m/min, 14m/min, 15m/min, 16m/min, 17m/min, 18m/min, 19m/min, 20m/min, etc., the linear speed may be 3m/min, 4m/min, 5m/min, 6m/min, 6.5m/min, 6m/min, 7.5m/min, 8m/min, 10m/min, 12m/min, 14m/min, 16m/min, etc., and the linear speed of the cloth discharging roller can be 5m/min, 7m/min, 8m/min, 9m/min, 10m/min, 11m/min, 12m/min, 13m/min, 14m/min, 15m/min, 16m/min, 17m/min, 19m/min, 20m/min, 21m/min, 22m/min, 23m/min, 24m/min, 25m/min, etc.
Wherein, the step (4) also comprises the steps of (4.1) boiling and bleaching treatment, the step (4.2) polishing enzyme treatment, the step (4.3) dyeing treatment and the step (4.4) color fixation.
Wherein the bath ratio of boiling and bleaching is 1:6, the temperature is 97 ℃, and the time is 30 min. In other alternative embodiments, the bath ratio of the boiling and bleaching can be 1:7, 1:8, 1:9, 1:10, etc., the boiling and bleaching temperature can be 80 ℃, 85 ℃, 88 ℃, 90 ℃, 92 ℃, 95 ℃, 100 ℃, 105 ℃, etc., and the boiling and bleaching time can be 20min, 25min, 35min, 40min, 45min, 50min, 55min, 60min, etc.
Wherein the pH value of the polishing enzyme is 6-7.5, the temperature is 40 ℃, and the time is 20 min. In other alternative embodiments, the pH of the polishing enzyme polishing process can be 6.5, 6.6, 6.8, 6.9, 7.0, and the temperature can be 30 deg.C, 32 deg.C, 35 deg.C, 38 deg.C, 42 deg.C, 44 deg.C, 46 deg.C, 47 deg.C, 48 deg.C, 49 deg.C, 50 deg.C for 10min, 15min, 22min, 24min, 26min, 27min, 30min, 35min, 38min, 40min, etc. It should be noted that the polishing enzyme is composed of an acid polishing enzyme and an alkaline polishing enzyme, and the conventional acid polishing enzyme is used in a pH range of 3 to 5, and the neutral polishing enzyme is used in a pH range of 6 to 7.5.
Wherein the dyeing bath ratio is 1:6, the temperature is 60 ℃, the time is 60min, the dye is reactive dye, the reactive dye dyes cotton, and the terylene is not dyed, thereby achieving the effect of indigo dye ring dyeing of the jean yarn. In other alternative embodiments, the bath ratio of the dyeing treatment may be 1:7, 1:8, 1:9, 1:10, etc., the temperature may be 50 ℃, 55 ℃, 58 ℃, 62 ℃, 64 ℃, 65 ℃, 70 ℃, 74 ℃, 77 ℃, 80 ℃, etc., and the time may be 30min, 35min, 40min, 45min, 50min, 55min, 57min, 58min, 62min, 65min, 70min, 75min, 80min, 85min, 90min, etc.
Wherein, the color fixing operation comprises the following steps: the bath ratio is 1:6, the temperature is 50 ℃, and the time is 20 min. In other alternative embodiments, the bath ratio for fixation may be 1:7, 1:8, 1:9, 1:10, etc., and the temperature may be 40 ℃, 42 ℃, 45 ℃, 48 ℃, 52 ℃, 54 ℃, 56 ℃, 57 ℃, 58 ℃, 59 ℃, 60 ℃, 62 ℃, 64 ℃, 65 ℃, 67 ℃, 69 ℃, 70 ℃, etc.
In the embodiment, spandex and cotton-covered polyester are combined for weaving, in the heat setting process, a hard chain segment area is heated and softened when the fiber is in an extension state, and part of the hard chain segment area flows; the fiber interweaving part is heated and melted to form bonding points, and the bonding points distributed in a net shape fix each fiber, so that even if one or more yarns of the fabric are broken, the bonding points can prevent the broken holes caused by the loose and sliding of the yarns from further expanding after the spandex-containing fabric is scraped, cut or repeatedly stretched.
Example 2
This example differs from example 1 in that:
the core layer is made of terylene, the denier of the terylene is 100D, the skin layer is made of modal/fine cotton, the dyeing treatment bath ratio in the step (4) is 1:6, the temperature is 60 ℃, the time is 60min, and the dye is reactive dye.
Example 3
This example differs from example 1 in that:
the core layer is cotton-feeling T-400, the denier of the T-400 is 150D, the skin layer is modal/fine cotton, and the spandex is 70D.
Example 4
This example differs from example 1 in that:
wherein the core layer is sorona, the denier of the sorona is 100D, the skin layer is cotton fiber, the dyeing treatment bath ratio in the step (4) is 1:6, the temperature is 60 ℃, the time is 60min, and the dye is reactive dye.
The above-described embodiments are preferred implementations of the present invention, and the present invention may be implemented in other ways without departing from the spirit of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. A manufacturing process of a hole-broken knitted jean fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following steps:
(1) selecting materials: selecting cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns and spandex, wherein the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns comprise a core layer and a skin layer;
(2) weaving: weaving the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn, the cotton-covered polyester and spandex into knitted grey cloth;
(3) grey cloth sizing: fusing and shaping the knitted grey cloth by a shaping machine, wherein the shaping temperature is 170-220 ℃, the machine speed is 10-50m/min, and the overfeeding is 0-80%;
(4) dyeing: dyeing the knitted grey cloth to color the cortex of the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn to obtain dyed cloth;
(5) physical friction: carrying out physical friction treatment on the dyed cloth, and brushing off part of the cortex of the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn by utilizing the physical friction treatment so as to expose the core layer;
(6) and (3) hole breaking treatment: and grinding or cutting by using a grinding wheel to generate a hole-breaking effect.
2. The manufacturing process of the hole-broken knitted denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the weight of the core layer accounts for 40-60%, and the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn is 20S/1 cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn.
3. The manufacturing process of the hole-broken knitted denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the weight percentage of the spandex is 3% -10%, and the spandex is 40D low-temperature thermal bonding spandex.
4. The manufacturing process of the hole-broken knitted denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in step (2), the cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarn, the cotton-covered polyester and the spandex are woven by adopting a reverse oblique weaving method, wherein the row needle structure is as follows: six looping systems form a basic cycle; the one basic cycle is: the first and second needle paths in the first looping system are flat needles, and the third needle path in the first looping system is a full needle; the first needle path and the third needle path in the third looping system are flat needles, and the second needle path in the third looping system is full needles; the second and third needle paths in the fifth looping system are flat needles, and the first needle path in the fifth looping system is a full needle; the first needle way, the second needle way and the third needle way in the second looping system, the fourth looping system and the sixth looping system are full needles; the first, third and fifth needle paths are cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns, and the second, fourth and sixth needle paths are spandex and cotton-covered polyester core-spun yarns.
5. The manufacturing process of the hole-broken knitted denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the physical friction treatment is one of carbon fiber bristle, sand paper sanding and stone grinding.
6. The manufacturing process of the hole-broken knitted denim fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that: the specific operation of the bristle treatment is as follows: brushing roller speed: 10-40 m/min; the running speed of the fabric is 5-20m/min, and the linear speed of a cloth feeding roller is as follows: 3-16m/mim, linear speed of cloth outlet roller: 5-25 m/mim.
7. The manufacturing process of the hole-broken knitted denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the step (4) also comprises a step (4.1) of boiling and bleaching treatment, wherein the bath ratio of boiling and bleaching is 1:6-10, the temperature is 80-105 ℃, and the time is 20-60 min.
8. The manufacturing process of the hole-broken knitted denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the step (4) further comprises a step (4.2) of polishing enzyme polishing treatment, wherein the pH value of the step (2.2) of polishing enzyme polishing treatment is 6-7.5, the temperature is 30-50 ℃, and the time is 10-40 min.
9. The manufacturing process of the hole-broken knitted denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the step (4) also comprises a step (4.3) of dyeing treatment, wherein the bath ratio is 1:6-10, the temperature is 50-80 ℃, and the time is 30-90 min.
10. The manufacturing process of the hole-broken knitted denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the step (4) further comprises the step (4.4) of color fixation, and the color fixation operation comprises the following specific steps: the bath ratio is 1:6-10, the temperature is 40-70 deg.C, and the time is 10-40 min.
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| CN201911204350.9A CN110983591A (en) | 2019-11-29 | 2019-11-29 | Manufacturing process of hole-broken knitted jean fabric |
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| CN201911204350.9A CN110983591A (en) | 2019-11-29 | 2019-11-29 | Manufacturing process of hole-broken knitted jean fabric |
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| CN115538015A (en) * | 2022-09-29 | 2022-12-30 | 桐乡市龙琪纺织有限公司 | Crease-resistant and anti-snagging blended fabric of Sorana fiber and silk floss and production process |
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| US3906753A (en) * | 1973-03-14 | 1975-09-23 | George Siegfried | Footlets, pantyhose and protective bag therefor |
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Application publication date: 20200410 |
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