CN110974710A

CN110974710A - Foundation make-up liquid and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN110974710A
Application number: CN201911416793.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 廖翠琴; 彭梦记; 赵观胜
Original assignee: Guangzhou Athena Cosmetics Manufacturing Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Athena Cosmetics Manufacturing Co ltd
Priority date: 2019-12-31
Filing date: 2019-12-31
Publication date: 2020-04-10

Abstract

The invention relates to a foundation liquid and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the field of cosmetics. The foundation solution provided by the invention comprises the following components in percentage by weight: concealer 1-15%, emulsifier 1-10%, humectant 0.1-20%, emollient 0.1-40%, suspending agent 0.1-5%, antiseptic 0.1-5%, film former 0.1-10%, colorant 0.1-8%, essence 0.1-1% and solvent balance. The foundation liquid provided by the invention solves the problem of color migration in the long-term standing process of the existing foundation liquid, has light and moist skin feeling, does not hurt the skin, has good absorbability, is not easy to float powder, is not makeup for a long time, has good moisturizing performance and storage stability, and can keep good reproducibility.

Description

Foundation make-up liquid and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to a foundation liquid and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the field of cosmetics.

Background

The emulsion cosmetic of powder is mainly prepared by utilizing the characteristic of good compatibility of powder materials with glycerin and water, and forms a smooth covering layer on the surface of skin, so that the emulsion cosmetic is used for covering or masking facial flaws such as wrinkles, acnes, scars, acne marks and the like, adjusting the texture, color and luster of the skin, playing a role of homogenizing the skin color, enabling the skin color to look natural and close, also having a smooth and tender feeling, and also having the characteristics of easiness in smearing, uniform distribution and natural appearance. The preparation of the foundation liquid is mainly divided into two steps, wherein the first step is the design of a formula, and the second step is the screening of the formula design. The foundation liquid is distinguished from the product formula and comprises three categories of full oil, oil-in-water (0/W) and water-in-oil (W/0), wherein the full oil foundation has the strongest concealer property and long standing time, and concealer powder is on the lower part and the upper part due to gravity, so that the foundation liquid is greasy and is not easy to make up; the oil-in-water foundation has light skin feel and is moist, but is not waterproof, and is easy to make up and fade by floating powder; water-in-oil foundation is waterproof and sweat-proof, is not easy to be floated and removed, but has heavy skin feel, is greasy, has the consistency of standing time, and shows the oil and color stripes on the surface of the skin.

Most of the currently marketed foundation products limit migration of colored substances by adding thickeners (such as microcrystalline wax, starch, candelilla wax and the like) into the foundation formula, and the foundation prepared by limiting migration of the colored substances from the formula level has obvious defects. Although the consistency is increased, the migration of pigments can be firmly slowed down, the skin feeling is increased while the consistency is increased, the smearing and the distribution are not easy to be uniform, the absorption of foundation liquid is poor, the safety performance is low, pores are easy to block, and more skin problems are caused.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provide the foundation liquid which is light in skin feel, moist and stable in storage, so as to solve the problem of color migration of the existing foundation liquid in the long-term standing process.

The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the foundation liquid.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that: the foundation solution comprises the following components in percentage by weight: concealer 1-15%, emulsifier 1-10%, humectant 0.1-20%, emollient 0.1-40%, suspending agent 0.1-5%, antiseptic 0.1-5%, film former 0.1-10%, colorant 0.1-8%, essence 0.1-1% and solvent balance.

Preferably, the liquid foundation comprises the following components: 9% of concealer, 5.5% of emulsifier, 19% of humectant, 28.7% of emollient, 3% of suspending agent, 1% of preservative, 0.5% of film forming agent, 2.35% of colorant, 0.1% of essence and the balance of solvent.

Preferably, the concealer is at least one selected from titanium dioxide, nano titanium dioxide and triethoxyoctylsilane titanium dioxide.

The titanium dioxide is white solid or powdery amphoteric oxide with a chemical formula of TiO₂The pigment is a white inorganic pigment, has no toxicity, optimal opacity, optimal whiteness and brightness, and simultaneously has better ultraviolet masking effect, and the titanium dioxide has both concealing effect and sun-screening effect in the foundation liquid.

The nano titanium dioxide is white loose powder, has strong ultraviolet shielding effect and good dispersibility and weather resistance; the molecular formula of the titanium dioxide treated by triethoxyoctylsilane is TiO₂。

Preferably, the emulsifier is at least one selected from cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate and sorbitan sesquioleate.

The cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane serving as organic silicon has the lubricating and water locking capabilities, avoids water and oil separation in foundation liquid, can condition skin, and enables the skin to be smooth and soft without generating sticky feeling.

The PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, a multifunctional water-in-oil emulsifier, in the foundation allows the foundation to spread easily on the skin and gives a light, non-greasy skin feel.

The sorbitan sesquioleate has excellent dispersing, emulsifying and lubricating capabilities.

Preferably, the humectant is selected from at least one of glycerin, propylene glycol, erythritol.

Preferably, the emollient is selected from at least one of C12-15 alcohol benzoate, dimethicone, dimethiconol, isononyl isononanoate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, bis-diglycerol polyacyladipate-2, panthenol, beeswax, tocopheryl acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, bisabolol.

The C12-15 alcohol benzoate is colorless, tasteless and odorless transparent oily liquid, and has the effects of good spreadability, smoothness, no greasy skin and good permeability in the foundation liquid.

The polydimethylsiloxane is a hydrophobic organic silicon material, has the effects of lubricating property, permeability and ultraviolet resistance, and has good air permeability and an obvious dustproof function.

The tocopherol acetate belongs to vitamin E derivatives, has strong reducibility, and has the effect of preventing skin aging when being used in foundation liquid.

The bisabolol is a component existing in the chamomile, has good stability and skin compatibility, and has anti-inflammatory performance and bacteriostatic activity in foundation liquid.

Preferably, the suspending agent is selected from at least one of sodium chloride, magnesium stearate, disteardimonium hectorite.

Preferably, the preservative is selected from at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 1, 2-hexanediol.

The film forming agent is trimethylsiloxy silicate.

The colorant is at least one selected from CI 77492, CI77491 and CI 77499.

The solvent is deionized water; the essence is daily essence.

The invention provides a preparation method of the foundation liquid, which comprises the following steps

(1) Taking the components according to the proportion; mixing emollient, concealer, colorant and suspending agent, stirring and dissolving, adding concealer, grinding until pigment is completely dispersed, adding into oil phase pan, adding film-forming agent, emulsifier, emollient and suspending agent, heating, keeping warm, and stirring to obtain oil phase;

(2) uniformly mixing a solvent, a humectant, an emollient, a suspending agent and a preservative, heating until the mixture is uniformly dispersed, and stirring at a constant temperature to obtain a water phase;

(3) dripping the water phase in the step (2) into the oil phase in the step (1) at the speed of 2-3g/min under the conditions of the stirring speed of 800-1000 rpm/min and the temperature of 80-85 ℃, and then homogenizing at the speed of 100-500 rpm/min to obtain the water-in-oil emulsion;

(4) and (3) cooling the water-in-oil emulsion obtained in the step (3), adding essence, stirring and dispersing at the speed of 200-300 rpm/min-until the mixture is uniform, cooling to the room temperature of 20-28 ℃, discharging, grinding under the aseptic condition, filtering, and standing to obtain the foundation liquid.

As a preferable embodiment of the preparation method of the present invention, in the step (1), the grinding is performed 3 to 5 times by using a colloid mill, the heating temperature is 80 ℃ to 85 ℃, and the heat-preserving stirring time is 10min to 20 min; in the step (2), the heating temperature is 80-85 ℃, and the heat preservation and stirring time is 10-20 min.

As a preferable embodiment of the preparation method of the present invention, in the step (4), the temperature of the water-in-oil emulsion is reduced to 45 ℃ to 50 ℃, the room temperature is 20 ℃ to 28 ℃, the stirring and dispersing time is 5min to 10min, and the grinding is performed 3 to 5 times by using a colloid mill.

The foundation liquid provided by the invention is prepared by compounding the concealer, the emulsifier, the moisturizing agent, the emollient, the suspending agent, the preservative, the film forming agent, the solvent, the colorant and the essence within a reasonable range, and solves the problem of color migration in the long-term standing process of the conventional foundation liquid under the preparation process of specific temperature, stirring speed and grinding times. The problem of color drift is particularly relevant to the selection of powders and surface treatments, the selection of fats and oils, and to the achievement of relative critical point dispersion fits. If the content of the powder is too high, agglomeration can occur after standing for a long time, the surface of the powder is not well treated, agglomeration can also occur after standing for a long time, and color diffusion can be caused after agglomeration. The key point is that the titanium dioxide is combined to reach a relative critical point through the matching of refined grease and the refined surface treatment by a grinder.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

(1) the foundation liquid provided by the invention solves the problem of color migration in the long-term standing process of the existing foundation liquid under the preparation process of specific temperature, stirring speed and grinding times by compounding the concealer, the emulsifier, the moisturizing agent, the emollient, the suspending agent, the preservative, the film forming agent, the solvent, the colorant and the essence within a reasonable range:

(2) the foundation liquid provided by the invention has light skin feel, is moist, does not hurt the skin, has good absorbability, is not easy to float powder, is not makeup for a long time, has good moisturizing performance and storage stability, and can keep good reproducibility;

(3) the foundation solution provided by the invention can resist color stripe precipitation and migration, and has no problem of color precipitation and migration in a long-term standing process.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a graph showing the results of 10 volunteers' experience with the foundation of examples 1 and 3 of the present invention and a commercial 2-pack foundation product;

FIG. 2 is a graph showing the results of a concealer test conducted on 10 volunteers on both the foundation solutions of examples 1 and 3 of the present invention and a commercial 2-pack foundation solution product.

Detailed Description

To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples.

Examples 1-6 are foundation solutions according to the present invention, and the specific formulations are shown in table 1.

TABLE 1 Foundation fluid formulations according to examples 1-6 of the present invention

The preparation method of the foundation solution described in the above embodiment 1 includes the following steps:

(1) taking the components according to the proportion; mixing emollient, concealer, colorant and suspending agent, stirring and dissolving, adding concealer, grinding for 3 times with colloid mill until pigment is completely dispersed, adding into oil phase pan, adding film-forming agent, emulsifier, emollient and suspending agent, heating to 80 deg.C, keeping the temperature, and stirring for 10min to obtain oil phase;

(2) mixing solvent, humectant, emollient, suspending agent and antiseptic uniformly, heating to 80 deg.C, homogenizing, dispersing uniformly, stirring for 10min to obtain water phase;

(3) dripping the water phase in the step (2) into the oil phase in the step (1) at the speed of 2g/min under the conditions of stirring speed of 800rpm/min and temperature of 80 ℃, and then homogenizing at the speed of 500rpm/min to obtain the water-in-oil emulsion;

(4) and (3) cooling the water-in-oil emulsion obtained in the step (3) to 45 ℃, adding essence, stirring at the speed of 200rpm/min for 5min, dispersing uniformly, cooling to 20 ℃, discharging, grinding for 3 times by using a colloid grinder under the aseptic condition, filtering, and standing to obtain the foundation solution.

The preparation method of the foundation solution described in the above embodiment 2 includes the following steps:

(1) taking the components according to the proportion; mixing emollient, concealer, colorant and suspending agent, stirring and dissolving, adding concealer, grinding for 5 times with colloid mill until pigment is completely dispersed, adding into oil phase pan, adding film-forming agent, emulsifier, emollient and suspending agent, heating to 85 deg.C, keeping the temperature, and stirring for 20min to obtain oil phase;

(2) mixing solvent, humectant, emollient, suspending agent and antiseptic uniformly, heating to 85 deg.C, homogenizing, dispersing uniformly, stirring for 20min to obtain water phase;

(3) dripping the water phase in the step (2) into the oil phase in the step (1) at the speed of 3g/min under the conditions of stirring speed of 1000rpm/min and temperature of 85 ℃, and then homogenizing at the speed of 100rpm/min to obtain the water-in-oil emulsion;

(4) and (3) cooling the water-in-oil emulsion obtained in the step (3) to 50 ℃, adding essence, stirring at the speed of 300rpm/min for 10min, dispersing uniformly, cooling to 28 ℃, discharging, grinding for 5 times by using a colloid grinder under the aseptic condition, filtering, and standing to obtain the foundation solution.

The foundation solutions described in examples 3-6 above were prepared in the same manner as in example 1.

Effect example 1

The foundation liquids of examples 1 and 3 and the commercial foundation liquid 2 were used for consumer research to evaluate the effects of skin feel, light weight, concealer property, stability, color migration, and long-term makeup removal of the foundation liquids.

The commercial No. 1 foundation solution comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 10% polydimethylsiloxane, 5% cyclohexasiloxane, 0.5% isododecane, 1% denatured ethanol, 2% vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, 1% phenyl trimethicone, 1.5% ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 2% disteardimonium hectorite, 3% PEG-10 dimethicone, 5% synthetic fluorophlogopite, 2% propylene carbonate, 1% disodium stearyl glutamate, 2% silica silylate, 0.1% fragrance, 15% crabapple oil, 0.5% aluminum hydroxide, 0.1% benzyl alcohol, 1% CI 77891, 1% CI 77492, 0.5% CI77491, 0.5% CI 77499, and deionized water to make up to 100%.

The commercially available foundation liquid of the No. 2 comprises the following components in percentage by weight: sorbitan sesquioleate 0.5%, silk titanium 5%, CI 774990.3%, CI 774921%, CI 774910.5%, ethylhexyl palmitate 5%, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone 5%, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5%, isopropyl myristate 6%, cetyl ethylhexanoate 3%, tocopherol acetate 2%, KP-5451%, KF-60381%, EM 901%, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 13%, disteardimonium hectorite 1%, glycerol 5%, 1, 3-butanediol 5%, disodium EDTA 0.1%, methylparaben 0.15%, magnesium sulfate 1.5%, deionized water to make up to 100%.

1. And (3) stability testing:

the following stability tests were performed on the foundation solutions of examples 1 and 3, respectively, and the commercial 2-part foundation solution products, with the cold resistance test being performed at-10 c, the heat resistance test being performed at 48 c, the cold and hot cycles being performed at-15 c and 45 c, the three month test, the test methods being performed according to the conventional methods, and the results are shown in table 2.

Table 2 stability test results of the foundation solutions of examples 1 and 3 and the commercial foundation solution of type 2

As can be seen from the stability test results in table 2, the foundation solutions of examples 1 and 3 of the present invention have qualified stability against heat, cold and heat cycles, and are commercially

available foundation solutions

1 and 2, wherein the commercially available foundation solution 1 has a microanalysis color bar against heat resistance, and the commercially available foundation solution 2 has a microanalysis color bar against heat and heat cycles, so that the stability of the foundation solution of the present invention is better than that of the commercially available foundation solution 2.

2. Evaluation of experience feeling:

the foundation solutions of examples 1 and 3 and the commercial 2-pack foundation product were applied directly to the face of 10 female volunteer panelists aged 18 to 45 years old, and the respective skin-touch, light and thin feelings were evaluated. The specific method comprises the following steps: four product samples were distributed to 10 volunteers, each of whom was used for seven consecutive days, and sensory evaluations were performed before and after each foundation was used at the same time point, after the same simple cleansing and skin care. By adopting the score of 5, the experience feeling is considered to be the best by 5 scores, 4 scores are obtained, the experience is not the worst by 1 score, and the evaluation result is shown in figure 1.

As can be seen from fig. 1, the foundation fluids of

embodiments

1 and 3 of the present invention are used by volunteers, and the experience scores of some volunteers are above 4 points, while the experience scores of some volunteers are 5 points, while the experience scores of 2 commercially available volunteers are mostly lower than 4 points, and the scores of only 1 or 2 volunteers are 4 points, so that it can be seen that the experience of the foundation fluid of the present invention is better than that of the 2 commercially available foundation fluids after the user uses the foundation fluid.

3. And (3) concealer test:

the following concealer tests were performed on the liquid foundations of examples 1 and 3, respectively, and on a commercial 2-part liquid foundation product: the concealer is to cover or cover some facial blemishes such as wrinkles, comedones, scars, acne marks and the like with foundation liquid, adjust the texture, color and luster of the skin, play a role in homogenizing the skin color and make the skin color look natural and close. Four product samples were distributed to 10 volunteers, each of whom was used continuously for seven days, and at the same time point, after the same simple cleansing and skin care, concealer evaluations were performed before and after each foundation was used. With a score of 5, 5 was considered to be the best concealer, 4 was rated to the worst concealer, and 1 was rated to the worst concealer, and the evaluation results are shown in fig. 2 and table 3.

Table 3 concealer test scores of the foundation solutions of examples 1 and 3 and a commercial foundation solution of 2

As can be seen from table 3 and fig. 2, after the foundation liquids of examples 1 and 3 of the present invention were used by 10 volunteers, the concealer test scores were mostly higher than 4 points, the highest score was 4.8 points, the lowest score was 3.8 points, and the score was also close to 4 points; the commercial 2-style liquid foundation has a concealer test score of mostly lower than 4 points, and the highest score of only 4 points. It can be seen that the foundation liquid of the present invention has better concealer property than the commercial foundation liquid 2.

4. And (3) bleaching migration test:

the following bleaching migration tests were performed on the foundation solutions of examples 1 and 3, respectively, and the commercial 2-part foundation solution product, respectively, and the results are shown in Table 4 after 30 minutes of sealing and standing by an electric centrifuge at 3500rpm/min for three, six, nine and twelve months.

Table 4 results of the float migration test between the liquid foundations of examples 1 and 3 and the commercially available type 2 liquid foundation product

Products or embodiments	Three months old	Six months old	Nine months old	Twelve months old
					Commercially available 1	Slight bleaching of the surface	Surface bleaching	Layered bleaching	Layered oil-yielding bleaching
On the market 2	Qualified	Light assay color bar	Bleaching on wall	Layered bleaching
					Example 1	Qualified	Qualified	Qualified	Qualified
Example 3	Qualified	Qualified	Qualified	Qualified

As can be seen from table 4 above, the foundation solutions of examples 1 and 3 of the present invention, after being treated by the electric centrifuge, were all qualified after being placed for three months, six months, nine months, and twelve months, and no surface bleaching, layered bleaching, and wall-sticking bleaching occurred, while the foundation solutions of 2 models sold in the market all showed surface bleaching, slight surface bleaching, layered bleaching, and wall-sticking bleaching, and so on, which indicates that the foundation solution of the present invention was qualified in the bleaching migration test, and no bleaching migration occurred after being placed for three months, six months, nine months, and twelve months.

5. Long-term no-makeup test:

the following non-makeup tests were performed on the foundation solutions of examples 1 and 3, respectively, and the commercially available foundation solution products of 2, respectively, by distributing four samples of the products to 10 volunteers, each of which was used, and using different samples after the same simple cleansing and skin care at the same time point, and recording the results of the makeup-holding time after each foundation solution was used, as shown in table 5.

TABLE 5 long term no-makeup test results for the powder bases of examples 1 and 3 and the commercially available type 2 powder base

Products or embodiments	Commercially available 1	On the market 2	Example 1	Example 3
					1 hour	Good make-up	Good make-up	Good make-up	Good make-up
3 hours	Good make-up	Slight makeup removal	Good make-up	Good make-up
					6 hours	Slight makeup removal	Concealer powder falling off	Good make-up	Good make-up
9 hours	Concealer powder falling off	Complete removal of makeup	Good make-up	Good make-up
					12 hours	Complete removal of makeup	/	Good make-up	Good make-up
18 hours	/	/	Slight makeup removal	Good make-up
					24 hours	/	/	Concealer powder falling off	Slight makeup removal

As can be seen from Table 5, the foundation liquid of example 1 of the present invention showed slight makeup removal after 18 hours of use and turned off concealer after 24 hours of use; the foundation liquid of the embodiment 1 of the invention has slight makeup removal after 24 hours; the commercial powder base solution of 1 completely fell off 12 hours after use, and the commercial powder base solution of 2 completely fell off 9 hours after use. Therefore, the foundation liquid of the invention can be used without makeup for a long time.

In conclusion, the experimental result shows that the foundation liquid has good stability and good concealing property, and a user has good skin-adhering, light and thin experience; the foundation liquid of the invention has no bleaching migration phenomenon after being placed for three months, six months, nine months and twelve months, and is not needed to be made up for a long time after being used.

Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, and although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims

1. The foundation solution is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight: concealer 1-15%, emulsifier 1-10%, humectant 0.1-20%, emollient 0.1-40%, suspending agent 0.1-5%, antiseptic 0.1-5%, film former 0.1-10%, colorant 0.1-8%, essence 0.1-1% and solvent balance.

2. The liquid foundation of claim 1, wherein the liquid foundation comprises the following components: 9% of concealer, 5.5% of emulsifier, 19% of humectant, 28.7% of emollient, 3% of suspending agent, 1% of preservative, 0.5% of film forming agent, 2.35% of colorant, 0.1% of essence and the balance of solvent.

3. The foundation solution of claim 1, wherein the concealer is at least one selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, nano titanium dioxide, triethoxyoctylsilane treated titanium dioxide.

4. The foundation of claim 1 wherein the emulsifier is selected from at least one of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquioleate.

5. The liquid foundation of claim 1, wherein the humectant is selected from at least one of glycerin, propylene glycol, erythritol.

6. The foundation of claim 1 wherein said emollient is selected from at least one of C12-15 alcohol benzoate, dimethicone, dimethiconol, isononyl isononanoate, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, bis-diglycerol polyacyladipate-2, panthenol, beeswax, tocopheryl acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cyclopentadimethicone, and bisabolol.

7. The foundation of claim 1 wherein said suspending agent is selected from at least one of sodium chloride, magnesium stearate, disteardimonium hectorite.

8. The foundation of claim 1 wherein the preservative is selected from at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol; the film forming agent is trimethylsiloxy silicate; the colorant is selected from at least one of CI 77492, CI77491 and CI 77499; the solvent is deionized water.

9. The method of preparing the liquid foundation of any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising the steps of:

10. The method according to claim 9, wherein in the step (1), the grinding is performed 3 to 5 times by using a colloid mill, the heating temperature is 80 ℃ to 85 ℃, and the holding and stirring time is 10min to 20 min; in the step (2), the heating temperature is 80-85 ℃, and the heat preservation and stirring time is 10-20 min; in the step (4), the temperature of the water-in-oil emulsion is reduced to 45-50 ℃, the room temperature is 20-28 ℃, the stirring and dispersing time is 5-10min, and the grinding is carried out for 3-5 times by using a colloid grinder.