CN110897906A - Skin barrier repair composition and application thereof - Google Patents

Skin barrier repair composition and application thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN110897906A
CN110897906A CN201911131529.6A CN201911131529A CN110897906A CN 110897906 A CN110897906 A CN 110897906A CN 201911131529 A CN201911131529 A CN 201911131529A CN 110897906 A CN110897906 A CN 110897906A
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skin
extract
skin barrier
phase
water
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王亚南
陈萍
董强
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YUMEIJING GROUP CO Ltd TIANJIN
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YUMEIJING GROUP CO Ltd TIANJIN
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61K8/986Milk; Derivatives thereof, e.g. butter
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

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Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a skin barrier repair composition and application thereof. Skin barrier repair compositions include fresh milk, rice chaff extract, flaxseed extract, and hydrolyzed zein; the skin care composition is derived from natural animal and plant components, is safe and reliable to human bodies, has obvious effects on improving the water content of skin cuticle and reducing the water dispersion amount of the skin, has obvious synergistic effect after being compounded with each component, improves the skin barrier function after being used, and can be applied to the skin of infants to help to improve and repair the damaged skin barrier. The skin care composition starts with exogenous supplement and endogenous promotion aiming at the skin barrier function, can fundamentally improve the skin barrier problem for a long time, and achieves long-term moisture preservation.

Description

Skin barrier repair composition and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a skin barrier repair composition and application thereof.
Background
The skin, as a surface of the human body which contacts with the outside, plays an important role in protecting and maintaining the normal circulatory metabolism and water balance in the body. Due to climate change, air pollution and complexity of types and components in cosmetics, the possibility of sensitive skin appearing and receiving stimulation is improved, and in addition, the perception rate and attention of sensitive skin are gradually increased due to improvement of awareness of people on skin health.
Generally, sensitive skin has no objective skin damage or skin disease evidence, and is mainly characterized by being drier, easy to tighten and redden, and generating the feeling of itching, desquamation, even burning and stabbing pain after slight stimulation. The sensitive skin is caused by the fact that the sensitive skin is not contacted and acted by specific substances, except for the hypersensitive reaction of the sensitive nerve, the self barrier structure of the skin is usually damaged, and the skin barrier can not effectively prevent the invasion of external harmful factors and the loss of nutrient substances in the body.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a skin barrier repair composition, and a preparation method and application thereof.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a skin barrier repair composition comprises fresh milk, rice chaff extract, linseed extract, and hydrolyzed corn protein; the weight ratio of the fresh milk, the rice chaff extract, the linseed extract and the hydrolyzed corn protein is 2-10: 1-5:0.5-2: 0.5-1.5.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the fresh milk, the rice chaff extract, the linseed extract and the hydrolyzed corn protein is 5: 3:1.5:1.
The invention also includes the use of a skin barrier repair composition, primarily for skin creams and lotions.
The skin cream comprises an oil phase, a water phase and an additive phase; the oil phase comprises the following components in percentage by mass: glyceryl stearate citrate 2%, cetostearyl alcohol 2%, ethylhexyl palmitate 6%, hydrogenated polyisobutene 4%, polydimethylsiloxane 2%, sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer 0.5%; the water phase comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of glycerin, 5% of butanediol, 0.5% of potassium cetyl phosphate, 0.1% of xanthan gum and 100% of water; the additive phase comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2-10% of fresh milk, 1-5% of rice chaff extract, 0.5-2% of flaxseed extract, 0.5-1% of hydrolyzed corn protein and preservative.
The skin cream comprises an oil phase, a water phase and an additive phase; the oil phase comprises the following components in percentage by mass: glyceryl stearate citrate 2%, cetostearyl alcohol 2%, ethylhexyl palmitate 6%, hydrogenated polyisobutene 4%, polydimethylsiloxane 2%, sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer 0.5%; the water phase comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of glycerin, 5% of butanediol, 0.5% of potassium cetyl phosphate, 0.1% of xanthan gum and 100% of water; the additive phase comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of fresh milk, 3% of rice chaff extract, 1.5% of flaxseed extract, 1% of hydrolyzed corn protein and preservative.
The preparation method of the skin-care cream comprises the following steps:
1) in a water phase pretreatment tank, firstly, completely adding glycerol and propylene glycol, stirring to reduce xanthan gum and slowly scattering the xanthan gum, adding the rest part of the water phase after the xanthan gum is uniformly dispersed, heating to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring;
2) in an oil phase pretreatment tank, sequentially adding all accurately weighed oil phase materials, starting stirring, heating to 80-85 ℃ to completely melt all the materials;
3) sucking all the filtered water-phase substances into a vacuum emulsifying kettle preheated to a certain temperature, starting a scraper for stirring, then sucking oil-phase materials through filtering, starting homogenization for vacuum emulsification, and keeping the temperature and stirring for about 10 minutes after finishing;
4) opening a cooling device, cooling to 55-60 deg.C, adding fresh milk, continuously cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding testa oryzae extract, semen Lini extract, hydrolyzed zein and antiseptic, stirring, inspecting, filtering, and discharging.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
the stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the epidermis, is the site of the skin barrier and function, and from a structural point of view, it is a structure similar to a brick wall: keratinocytes resemble bricks, intercellular lipids are mortars, and the "bricks" and "mortars" form a firm structure to the epidermis, restrict the flow of water inside and outside the cells and between the cells, ensure that no water is lost, and maintain the important barrier function of the skin. The application provides a skin barrier repair composition, which comprises an endogenous substance and an exogenous substance.
Wherein the endogenous substances comprise linseed extract and hydrolyzed zein, intercellular lipids are synthesized in keratinocytes in the lower layer of the epidermis and stored in lamellar bodies, the lamellar bodies carry lipids to transport to the stratum corneum, and finally ceramide, sterol and free fatty acid are combined into lipids in an equimolar ratio to fill the whole stratum corneum intercellular substance. The active plant ingredients derived from natural flaxseeds can promote the synthesis of lipids including ceramide, sterol and fatty acid in a lipid synthesis way, can also promote lamellar bodies to help lipid transportation and secretion and the like, can fundamentally improve the dynamic balance of lipid barriers through healthy expression of a plurality of targets, and is helpful for improving the dry and damaged skin state caused by daily over-cleaning or aging.
The strength of the keratinocytes themselves, and their adhesion to lipids, also have important implications for the integrity of the keratinous barrier. Keratinocytes are filled with keratin fibers that span the cells, and dense keratin cellulose is a tough scaffold structure of keratinocytes, building strength inside the keratinocytes. The corneocytes are surrounded by cornified envelopes, which are cross-linked to keratin fibers on the one hand, and covalently bound to ceramides in intercellular lipids on the other hand, so that the corneocytes and intercellular lipids adhere tightly together, further improving the firmness of the stratum corneum. The hydrolyzed zein is prepared by enzyme hydrolysis from natural food, zein powder, and has the effect of promoting the expression of cornification envelope precursor proteins, including involucrin, loricrin and filaggrin, which constitute the matrix of cornification envelope. Can also promote expression of keratins in keratinocytes, help to improve strength and stability of keratinocytes, help skin to establish good barrier function, and improve strength and hydration of stratum corneum.
The exogenous substances include fresh milk and rice chaff extract. The main component of the stratum corneum intercellular liposome is ceramide, which is externally supplemented with ceramide or ceramide, and can quickly permeate into the skin and combine with water in the stratum corneum due to the structure similar to that of the substances forming the stratum corneum, so as to form a net structure for locking water. Rice chaff extract, the active ingredient is derived from a rice extract, is a mixture of sphingolipids (ceramides) and phospholipids, and has higher permeability to the stratum corneum of the skin, and is easier to improve the moisture retention ability and barrier function of the skin.
Fresh milk (fresh milk): meets the GB6914 requirement; contains high-quality protein, fat and carbohydrate, and also contains abundant vitamins and minerals, especially vitamin B1B12 and calcium, which are necessary for human growth and metabolism, and fresh cow milk can provide almost all skin nutrients after transdermal absorption. Fresh milk in the application provides safe and reliable nutrient components, and can also provide a closed protective film for barrier repair, so that skin is kept moist and soft.
The invention provides a novel composition with the function of repairing the barrier function of skin, which can be directly acted on the surface of the skin of a human body or used for producing further cosmetics and is used for repairing the skin with damaged barrier. In the invention, from the viewpoint of skin physiology, functional raw material substances acting on different target spots are compounded with fresh milk to obtain a novel composition, so that the novel composition has a synergistic effect, and the novel composition can radically promote the dynamic balance of a skin barrier to be healthier by acting on the inside (linseed extract, hydrolyzed corn protein) and the outside (rice chaff extract and fresh milk) of the skin, achieves a long-acting repairing effect and promotes the continuous regeneration of a natural skin barrier layer.
Detailed Description
In order to make the technical solutions of the present invention better understood by those skilled in the art, the present invention will be further described in detail with reference to the following preferred embodiments.
The following detailed description of the embodiments of the present invention will explain the present invention and the resulting advantages.
Examples 1-3A skin cream containing the composition of the present invention was formulated as shown in Table 1 below:
TABLE 1
Examples Example 1 Example 2 Example 3
Oil phase: amount/% of Amount/% of Amount/% of
Glycerol stearate citric acid ester 2 2 2
Cetostearyl alcohol 2 2 2
Ethyl hexyl palmitate 6 6 6
Hydrogenated polyisobutenes 4 4 4
Polydimethylsiloxane 2 2 2
Acryloyldimethyl sodium taurate/VP copolymer 0.5 0.5 0.5
Water phase:
glycerol 5 5 5
Butanediol 5 5 5
Cetyl phosphate potassium 0.5 0.5 0.5
Xanthan gum 0.1 0.1 0.1
Water (W) To 100 To 100 To 100
Adding phases:
fresh milk 5 2 10
Rice chaff extract 3 1 5
Linseed extract 1.5 0.5 2
Hydrolyzed corn protein 1 0.5 1.5
Preservative Proper amount of Proper amount of Proper amount of
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
1. in a water phase pretreatment tank, firstly, completely adding glycerol and propylene glycol, stirring to reduce xanthan gum and slowly scattering the xanthan gum, adding the rest part of the water phase after the xanthan gum is uniformly dispersed, heating to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring;
2. in an oil phase pretreatment tank, sequentially adding all accurately weighed oil phase materials, starting stirring, heating to 80-85 ℃ to completely melt all the materials;
3. sucking all the filtered water-phase substances into a vacuum emulsifying kettle preheated to a certain temperature, starting a scraper for stirring, then sucking oil-phase materials through filtering, starting homogenization for vacuum emulsification, and keeping the temperature and stirring for about 10 minutes after finishing;
4. opening a cooling device, cooling to 55-60 deg.C, adding fresh milk, continuously cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding testa oryzae extract, semen Lini extract, hydrolyzed zein and antiseptic, stirring, inspecting, filtering, and discharging.
The skin cream prepared in the examples 1-3 has no unacceptable peculiar smell, is applied to the surface of skin, and is moist and not sticky. The product is subjected to heat resistance and cold resistance destructive tests, the phenomenon of oil-water stratification is avoided, and various physical and chemical indexes and sanitary indexes meet the corresponding national standards.
Comparative examples 1-3 the same procedure and components as in example 1 were followed except that the additives used in the present application were different, and the specific components are shown in Table 2:
TABLE 3
Figure BDA0002278447540000051
Figure BDA0002278447540000061
Experiment of Using Effect
To verify the effect of the products of the examples in repairing the skin barrier, the skin intolerant people (susceptible) and 70 people of 20-50 years old were selected and randomly divided into 7 groups, and the efficacy of the products of the examples and comparative examples was experimentally evaluated, and deionized water was used as a blank control group. The subject was asked to use the sample once a day, in the morning and evening, for 4 weeks on the selected skin area, and the same cosmetic was not used during the test period. The user was followed up periodically, using a skin tester, once every 14 days for a phase of testing, and the improvement in skin barrier function was tested and data analysis was performed. The test environment is a constant temperature and humidity environment, and the set temperature is as follows: 22 +/-1 ℃ and 50% +/-5% humidity.
1. Amount of percutaneous Water Dispersion (TEWL value)
TewameterTM210, CK corporation, Germany, is one of the commonly used skin non-invasive test instruments produced based on Fick's diffusion Law and commonly used for skin barrier function-related tests and assessments. Evaluation of the amount of water lost per unit of time (unit: g.hm) of the skin-2) This is an important parameter for barrier function, the higher the value, the worse the barrier function; conversely, the lower the number, the better the barrier function. The test results are shown in the following table:
TEWL variation Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative example 1 Comparative example 2 Comparative example 3 Blank group
Average D14-D0 -6.9 -5.2 -7.5 -2.7 -2.6 -3.8 -0.1
Average D28-D14 -6.7 -5.6 -7.7 -2.1 -3.9 -4.1 0.2
Note: d0 testing the skin TEWL value of the volunteer before using the product, establishing a file, and recording the file as a basic value; the greater the absolute value of the change in D14-D0, which was traced every 14 days after the start of the experiment, indicates better improvement in skin barrier function.
2. Determination of water content of horny layer
The skin diagnosis specialist (Derma-Expert) MC760 skin tester of CK company in Germany is an instrument developed based on capacitance principle and used for measuring the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin, and is also one of the important parameters for evaluating the barrier function of the skin. The higher the test value, the more water content in the stratum corneum; conversely, a lower value indicates a lower water content. The test results are as follows:
change in water content of stratum corneum Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative example 1 Comparative example 2 Comparative example 3 Blank group
Average D14-D0 10.8 8.4 11.4 4.5 3.6 6.1 0.1
Average D28-D14 11.5 8.9 12.9 3.3 4.9 6.0 -0.4
Note: d0 testing the skin of the volunteer before using the product, establishing a file, and recording the file as a basic value; the moisture content of the skin was followed every 14 days after the start of the experiment, and the larger the moisture change D14-D0 of the skin was, the better the skin barrier function was improved.
The comparative examples in the application are selected to add only the exogenous component, only the endogenous component and a part of the endogenous component and the exogenous component, and the results of the transdermal water dispersion test show that: the TEWL change values are negative, which shows that the control group and the embodiment can reduce the water loss of the skin to different degrees compared with the blank group; compared with the control group, the reduction of the transdermal water dispersion loss of the examples is more obvious, which shows that the skin barrier function improving effect is better.
The test result of the water content of the horny layer shows that: the change values are all straight, which shows that the control group and the examples can improve the water content of the skin to different degrees compared with the blank group, and the examples have larger change of the water content of the stratum corneum compared with the control group, which shows that the skin barrier function improving effect is better.
And (4) conclusion: the skin care composition is derived from natural animal and plant components, is safe and reliable to human bodies, has obvious effects on improving the water content of skin cuticle and reducing the water dispersion amount of the skin, has obvious synergistic effect after being compounded with each component, improves the skin barrier function after being used, and can be applied to the skin of infants to help to improve and repair the damaged skin barrier. The skin care composition starts with exogenous supplement and endogenous promotion aiming at the skin barrier function, can fundamentally improve the skin barrier problem for a long time, and achieves long-term moisture preservation.
The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and for those skilled in the art, the present invention should not be limited by the description of the present invention, which should be interpreted as a limitation.

Claims (6)

1. A skin barrier repair composition comprising fresh milk, rice chaff extract, flaxseed extract, and hydrolyzed zein; the weight ratio of the fresh milk, the rice chaff extract, the linseed extract and the hydrolyzed corn protein is 2-10: 1-5:0.5-2: 0.5-1.5.
2. The skin barrier repair composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the fresh milk, the rice chaff extract, the linseed extract and the hydrolyzed corn protein is 5:3:1.5: 1.
3. Use of a skin barrier repair composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 in a skin cream, or lotion.
4. Use of a skin barrier repair composition according to claim 3, wherein the skin cream comprises an oil phase, a water phase and an additional phase; the oil phase comprises the following components in percentage by mass: glyceryl stearate citrate 2%, cetostearyl alcohol 2%, ethylhexyl palmitate 6%, hydrogenated polyisobutene 4%, polydimethylsiloxane 2%, sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer 0.5%; the water phase comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of glycerin, 5% of butanediol, 0.5% of potassium cetyl phosphate, 0.1% of xanthan gum and 100% of water; the additive phase comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 2-10% of fresh milk, 1-5% of rice chaff extract, 0.5-2% of flaxseed extract, 0.5-1% of hydrolyzed corn protein and preservative.
5. Use of a skin barrier repair composition according to claim 3, wherein the skin cream comprises an oil phase, a water phase and an additional phase; the oil phase comprises the following components in percentage by mass: glyceryl stearate citrate 2%, cetostearyl alcohol 2%, ethylhexyl palmitate 6%, hydrogenated polyisobutene 4%, polydimethylsiloxane 2%, sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer 0.5%; the water phase comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of glycerin, 5% of butanediol, 0.5% of potassium cetyl phosphate, 0.1% of xanthan gum and 100% of water; the additive phase comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of fresh milk, 3% of rice chaff extract, 1.5% of flaxseed extract, 1% of hydrolyzed corn protein and preservative.
6. Use of a skin barrier repair composition according to any one of claims 4 to 5, wherein the skin cream is prepared by the steps of:
1) in a water phase pretreatment tank, firstly, completely adding glycerol and propylene glycol, stirring to reduce xanthan gum and slowly scattering the xanthan gum, adding the rest part of the water phase after the xanthan gum is uniformly dispersed, heating to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring;
2) in an oil phase pretreatment tank, sequentially adding all accurately weighed oil phase materials, starting stirring, heating to 80-85 ℃ to completely melt all the materials;
3) sucking all the filtered water-phase substances into a vacuum emulsifying kettle preheated to a certain temperature, starting a scraper for stirring, then sucking oil-phase materials through filtering, starting homogenization for vacuum emulsification, and keeping the temperature and stirring for about 10 minutes after finishing;
4) opening a cooling device, cooling to 55-60 deg.C, adding fresh milk, continuously cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding testa oryzae extract, semen Lini extract, hydrolyzed zein and antiseptic, stirring, inspecting, filtering, and discharging.
CN201911131529.6A 2019-11-19 2019-11-19 Skin barrier repair composition and application thereof Pending CN110897906A (en)

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