CN110685105B - Finishing method of copper ammonia hemp interwoven fabric - Google Patents
Finishing method of copper ammonia hemp interwoven fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN110685105B CN110685105B CN201910910728.0A CN201910910728A CN110685105B CN 110685105 B CN110685105 B CN 110685105B CN 201910910728 A CN201910910728 A CN 201910910728A CN 110685105 B CN110685105 B CN 110685105B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C19/00—Breaking or softening of fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B1/00—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C9/00—Singeing
- D06C9/02—Singeing by flame
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of textiles, and particularly relates to a finishing method of a copper ammonia China-hemp interwoven fabric. The process is realized by singeing → desizing → ultra-soft → tentering → preshrinking, in the ultra-soft process, the fabric contains 50% of moisture and is put into the fabric, the air volume of a main fan is 70-90%, the air volume of a lower fan is 50-70%, an exhaust fan is 40-60%, the drying temperature is 110-130 ℃, the built-in width is 110-120cm, the reverse execution is carried out for 3-8 s, and the vehicle speed is 8-20 m/min. The finishing method of the cuprammonium-ammonia China-hemp interwoven fabric has the advantages that the process is scientific and easy to operate, compared with the conventional cuprammonium-ammonia or China-hemp fabric, the finishing method has the advantages of being glossy, softer in hand feeling, free of wrinkles and turned edges on the fabric surface, uniform in width, and capable of enabling the first-class rate of the cuprammonium-ammonia China-hemp fabric to reach more than 99%, further improving the stability of the product quality and meeting the requirement of high quality of high-grade fabrics.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textiles, and particularly relates to a finishing method of a copper ammonia China hemp interwoven fabric.
Background
The pursuit of comfort freedom and fashion personality has become a worldwide trend. In particular, in the field of textile clothing, people pay more and more attention to the diversity and comfort of the clothing materials, and the clothing materials are expected to form a smooth curved surface shape in the wearing process so as to bring visual enjoyment to people. Cuprammonium is a resolvable regenerated cellulose fiber which is extracted from pure natural plant fiber and can be naturally decomposed and reduced in soil, is a green and environment-friendly ecological raw material, and combines the advantages of natural fiber and the functions of chemical fiber; the prepared fabric and even clothing has four functions of breathing, refreshing, static resistance and good drapability, and the fabric has soft hand feeling, soft luster and the sense of freshness of real silk, but has the problems of easy wrinkle and high water shrinkage after washing. The hemp fabric has the advantages of moisture absorption, air permeability, mildew resistance, bacteriostasis, radiation resistance, ultraviolet resistance and the like. The copper ammonia fabric has good drapability, but is influenced by the fiber structure, so that the hemp fabric can feel itchy when being not well treated and worn. Therefore, the defects of the woven fabric and the knitted fabric are overcome by interweaving the two, but the problems of cloth cover wrinkles, high shrinkage, stiff hand feeling, easy edge breakage and the like still exist in the finishing production process, the control difficulty of the finishing process is high, the first-class product rate of the fabric is low, and the requirement on the quality of high-grade leisure fabric cannot be met.
A combed cotton and cuprammonium interweaved twill fabric is disclosed in patent CN 203096307U, which only describes the weaving method of the twill fabric and does not mention the finishing production method.
A combed cotton-hemp mixed fabric and a production method thereof are disclosed in patent CN 106222841A, which only describes a weaving method of the mixed fabric and does not mention a finishing production method.
Patent CN 102230252A discloses a CVC and hemp interwoven fabric and a production method thereof, which mainly introduces a production process of resin finishing in the finishing aspect and has a complex flow.
Disclosure of Invention
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is as follows: overcomes the defects of the prior art and provides a finishing method of copper ammonia hemp interwoven fabrics. Compared with the conventional cuprammonium or China hemp fabric, the cuprammonium fabric has the advantages of being bright, soft in hand feeling, free of wrinkles and turned edges on the fabric surface, uniform in width, and capable of achieving the first-class yield of the cuprammonium China hemp fabric of more than 99%, further improving the stability of product quality and meeting the requirement of high-quality high-grade fabrics.
The finishing method of the copper ammonia China hemp interwoven fabric is realized by a singeing → desizing → ultra-soft → tentering → preshrinking process, in the ultra-soft process, the fabric contains 50% of moisture and is put into the fabric, the air volume of a main fan is 70-90%, the air volume of a lower fan is 50-70%, the air volume of an exhaust fan is 40-60%, the drying temperature is 110-130 ℃, the built-in width is 110-120cm, the reverse execution is carried out for 3-8 s, and the vehicle speed is 8-20 m/min.
Wherein:
singeing at speed of 90-100m/min, flame strength of 8-10mbar, and fire hole position of 1#.
In the desizing procedure, 10-30 g of desizing enzyme, 5-10 g of refining agent and 5-10 g of penetrating agent are added per liter in a trough of a desizing machine, the steaming temperature is 90-98 ℃, the steaming time is 5-15 minutes, and the temperature of a rinsing bath is 85-95 ℃; and (5) discharging the cloth by adopting a 50% liquid carrying rate state.
The cloth is discharged in a wet state with the liquid carrying rate of 50 percent.
The desizing enzyme is alpha-amylase.
The refining agent is a special surfactant compound, preferably WR-03 produced by Ruiry fine chemical industry.
The penetrating agent is polyethylene glycol ether derivative, preferably WA-M produced by Ruhry fine chemical industry.
In the tentering process, the tension of a padder is 150-250N, the tentering width latitudinal direction expanding rate is 4-6%, the vehicle speed is 50-70 m/min, the overfeeding amount is 2-4%, the temperature of a drying room is 110-130 ℃, and the doffing temperature is 30-40 ℃.
In the pre-shrinking process, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 90-110 ℃, the temperature of the woolen blanket is 90-110 ℃, the pre-shrinking amount is 5-7%, and the vehicle speed is 40-60m/min.
According to the finishing method of the cuprammonium china-hemp interwoven fabric, disclosed by the invention, the hairiness on the cloth surface of the cuprammonium china-hemp interwoven fabric is burnt out through quick singeing, so that the cloth surface is bright, clean and attractive, meanwhile, the strength loss of the cuprammonium china-hemp interwoven fabric is reduced, desizing adopts the cloth discharging in a 50% humidity state, cloth surface sizing agent is removed, the water absorption is improved, meanwhile, the wet cloth discharging avoids the hand feeling problem caused by contact drying, the generation of cloth surface creases is avoided, the hand feeling and the drapability of the fabric are improved through ultra-soft finishing and drying of the fabric, the quality of the fabric is greatly improved, cloth surface wrinkles are removed through the mechanical action of tentering and the latitudinal spreading rate, the radial stretching is reduced through low tension and high overfeeding, the problem that the radial shrinkage rate of the fabric is larger is improved, finally, the hand feeling of the fabric is further improved through preshrinking processing, the size change rate of the fabric is stabilized, and the effect of neat and uniform and clear appearance of the width is finally achieved.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
the finishing method of the copper ammonia hemp interwoven fabric is scientific in process and easy to operate, has the advantages of gloss, softer hand feeling, no wrinkle and no edge curl on the fabric surface, uniform width, and high first-class yield of the copper ammonia hemp fabric of more than 99 percent compared with the conventional copper ammonia or hemp fabric, further improves the stability of the product quality, and meets the requirement of high-quality high-grade fabric.
Detailed Description
The present invention is further described below with reference to examples.
Example 1
The method adopts the fabric with the specification that warp-wise copper ammonia siro spinning 80 counts plied yarns are interwoven with 21 single yarns of China hemp, the warp density is 125 pieces/inch, and the weft density is 75 pieces/inch, and the fabric is finished through a singeing → desizing → ultra-soft → tentering → preshrinking process, and the specific steps are as follows:
(1) Singeing: singeing speed is 90m/min, flame intensity is 8mbar, and fire hole position is 1#.
(2) Desizing: adding desizing enzyme into a material groove of a desizing machine: 10g/l, penetrant WA-M:5g/l, refining agent WR-03:5g/l, the water washing temperature is 85 ℃, the steaming temperature is 90 ℃, the steaming time is 5min, the fabric is processed and desized, and the fabric is discharged in a 50% humidity state (namely a half-drying state, the liquid carrying rate is 50%).
(3) Super-soft: the fabric contains 50% of moisture, the air volume of a main fan is 70%, the air volume of a lower fan is 50%, an exhaust fan is 40%, the drying temperature is 110 ℃, the built-in width is 110cm, the reverse execution is carried out for 3s, and the vehicle speed is 8m/min.
(4) Tentering: the padder tension is 150N, the tentering width latitudinal direction expanding rate is 4%, the vehicle speed is 50m/min, the overfeeding amount is 2%, the drying room temperature is 110 ℃, and the cropping temperature is 30 ℃.
(5) Pre-shrinking: the pre-shrinking vehicle speed is 40m/min, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 90 ℃, the temperature of the woolen blanket is 90 ℃, and the pre-shrinking amount is 5%.
The quality of the copper ammonia hemp interwoven fabric obtained by the implementation method adopts a GB/T8628-2013 test method to obtain warp shrinkage of-4.3 percent, weft shrinkage of-3.5 percent, a GB/T3923.1-2013 test method to obtain a breaking strength of 550N in the warp direction, 640N in the weft direction, a GB/T3917.1-2009 test method to obtain 48N in the warp direction and 64N in the weft direction, and a GB/T7573-2009 test method is used to test the pH value of the fabric to be 6.1; the fuzzing and pilling are 4/5 grade, the heat-resistant color fastness is 4/5 grade, the washed cloth surface is flat, the breadth is consistent, the hand feeling is soft, the drapability is good, and the appearance quality of the finished product is all first-grade.
Example 2
The method adopts the fabric with the specification that warp-wise copper ammonia siro spinning 100 plied yarns are interwoven with 21 Chinese hemp single yarns, the warp yarn density is 130 pieces/inch, and the weft yarn density is 85 pieces/inch, and the finishing is realized through the singeing → desizing → ultra-soft → tentering → preshrinking process, and the specific steps are as follows:
(1) Singeing: singeing speed is 95m/min, flame intensity is 9mbar, and fire hole position is 1#.
(2) Desizing: adding desizing enzyme into a material groove of a desizing machine: 20g/l, penetrant WA-M:8g/l, refining agent WR-03:8g/l, the water washing temperature is 90 ℃, the steaming temperature is 95 ℃, the steaming time is 10min, the fabric is processed and desized, and the fabric is discharged in a 50% humidity state (namely, a half-drying state, the liquid carrying rate is 50%).
(3) Super-soft: the fabric contains 50% of moisture, the air volume of a main fan is 80%, the air volume of a lower fan is 60%, an exhaust fan is 50%, the drying temperature is 120 ℃, the built-in width is 115cm, the reverse execution is carried out for 5s, and the vehicle speed is 10m/min.
(4) Tentering: the padder tension is 200N, the tentering width latitudinal direction expanding rate is 5%, the vehicle speed is 60m/min, the overfeeding amount is 3%, the drying room temperature is 120 ℃, and the cropping temperature is 35 ℃.
(5) Pre-shrinking: the pre-shrinking vehicle speed is 50m/min, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 100 ℃, the temperature of the woolen blanket is 100 ℃, and the pre-shrinking amount is 6%.
The quality of the copper ammonia hemp interwoven fabric obtained by the implementation method adopts a GB/T8628-2013 test method to obtain warp shrinkage of-2.1 percent and weft shrinkage of-3.5 percent, the GB/T3923.1-2013 test method is used to obtain breaking strength of 550N in the warp direction and 610N in the weft direction, the GB/T3917.1-2009 test method is used to test 55N in the warp direction and 64N in the weft direction, and the GB/T7573-2009 test method is used to test the pH value of the fabric to be 6.5; the fuzzing and pilling are 4/5 grade, the heat-resistant color fastness is 4/5 grade, the washed cloth surface is flat, the breadth is consistent, the hand feeling is soft, the drapability is good, and the appearance quality of the finished product is all first-grade.
Example 3
The method adopts the fabric with the specification that the warp-wise CuMinicao worsted 90-count plied yarns are interwoven with 21 single yarns of China hemp, the warp density is 130 pieces/inch, and the weft density is 80 pieces/inch, and the finishing is realized by a singeing → desizing → ultra-soft → tentering → preshrinking process, and the specific steps are as follows:
(1) Singeing: singeing speed is 100m/min, flame intensity is 10mbar, and fire hole position is 1#.
(2) Desizing: adding desizing enzyme into a material groove of a desizing machine: 30g/l, penetrant WA-M:10g/l, refining agent WR-03:10g/l, the washing temperature is 95 ℃, the steaming temperature is 98 ℃, the steaming time is 15min, the fabric is processed and desized, and the fabric is discharged in a 50% humidity state (namely a half-drying state, the liquid carrying rate is 50%).
(3) Ultra-soft: the fabric contains 50% of moisture, the air volume of a main fan is 90%, the air volume of a lower fan is 70%, an exhaust fan is 60%, the drying temperature is 130 ℃, the built-in width is 120cm, the reverse execution is 8s, and the vehicle speed is 20m/min.
(4) Tentering: the padder tension is 250N, the tentering width latitudinal direction expanding rate is 6%, the vehicle speed is 70m/min, the overfeeding amount is 3%, the drying room temperature is 130 ℃, and the cropping temperature is 40 ℃.
(5) Pre-shrinking: the pre-shrinking vehicle speed is 60m/min, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 110 ℃, the temperature of the woolen blanket is 110 ℃, and the pre-shrinking amount is 7%.
The quality of the copper ammonia hemp interwoven fabric obtained by the implementation method adopts a GB/T8628-2013 test method to obtain warp shrinkage of-3.8%, weft shrinkage of-3.2%, a GB/T3923.1-2013 test method to obtain a breaking strength of 540N in the warp direction, 590N in the weft direction, a GB/T3917.1-2009 test method to obtain warp tearing of 55N and weft tearing of 64N, and the GB/T7573-2009 test method is used to test the pH value of the fabric to be 6.0; the fuzzing and pilling are 4/5 grade, the heat-resistant color fastness is 4/5 grade, the washed cloth surface is flat, the breadth is consistent, the hand feeling is soft, the drapability is good, and the appearance quality of the finished product is all first-grade.
Comparative example 1
The method adopts the fabric with the specification that warp-wise copper ammonia siro spinning 80 counts plied yarns are interwoven with 21 single yarns of China hemp, the warp density is 125 pieces/inch, and the weft density is 75 pieces/inch, and the fabric is finished through a singeing → desizing → ultra-soft → tentering → preshrinking process, and the specific steps are as follows:
(1) Singeing: singeing speed is 90m/min, flame intensity is 8mbar, and fire hole position is 1#.
(2) Desizing: adding desizing enzyme into a material groove of a desizing machine: 10g/l, penetrant WA-M:5g/l, refining agent WR-03:5g/l, the water washing temperature is 85 ℃, the steaming temperature is 90 ℃, the steaming time is 5min, and the fabric is processed and desized in a dry state.
(3) Tentering: the padder tension is 150N, the tentering width latitudinal direction expanding rate is 4%, the vehicle speed is 50m/min, the overfeeding amount is 2%, the drying room temperature is 110 ℃, and the cropping temperature is 30 ℃.
(4) Pre-shrinking: the pre-shrinking vehicle speed is 40m/min, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 90 ℃, the temperature of the woolen blanket is 90 ℃, and the pre-shrinking amount is 5%.
After production, the finished product quality of the fabric is tested by a GB/T8628-2013 method to obtain warp shrinkage of 8 percent, weft shrinkage of 3.6 percent, the breaking strength is tested by a GB/T3923.1-2013 method to obtain a warp tear of 530N and a weft tear of 450N, the warp tear is tested by a GB/T3917.1-2009 method to obtain a warp tear of 48N and a weft tear of 51N, and the hand feeling of the hemp fabric is severe in scratchiness.
Comparative example 2
The method adopts the fabric with the specification that warp-wise copper ammonia siro spinning 80 counts plied yarns, weft-wise copper ammonia siro spinning 80 counts plied yarns are interwoven with 21 Chinese hemp single yarns, the warp density is 125 pieces/inch, the weft density is 75 pieces/inch, and the fabric is finished through singeing → desizing → supersoft → tentering → preshrinking technology, and the specific steps are as follows:
(1) Singeing: singeing speed is 90m/min, flame intensity is 8mbar, and fire hole position is 1#.
(2) Desizing: adding desizing enzyme into a material groove of a desizing machine: 10g/l, penetrant WA-M:5g/l, refining agent WR-03:5g/l, the water washing temperature is 85 ℃, the steaming temperature is 90 ℃, the steaming time is 5min, and the fabric is processed and desized in a dry state.
(3) Super-soft: the fabric is dried, the air volume of a main fan is 70%, the air volume of a lower fan is 50%, the air volume of an exhaust fan is 40%, the drying temperature is 110 ℃, the built-in width is 110cm, the reverse execution is carried out for 3s, and the vehicle speed is 8m/min.
(4) Tentering: the padder tension is 150N, the tentering width latitudinal direction expanding rate is 4%, the vehicle speed is 50m/min, the overfeeding amount is 2%, the drying room temperature is 110 ℃, and the cropping temperature is 30 ℃.
(5) Pre-shrinking: the pre-shrinking vehicle speed is 40m/min, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 90 ℃, the temperature of the woolen blanket is 90 ℃, and the pre-shrinking amount is 5%.
The quality of the copper ammonia China hemp interwoven fabric obtained by the implementation method adopts a GB/T8628-2013 test method to obtain warp shrinkage of-8 percent and weft shrinkage of-3.5 percent, a GB/T3923.1-2013 test method to obtain a breaking strength of 550N in the warp direction, 640N in the weft direction, a GB/T3917.1-2009 method to obtain a warp tearing of 48N and a weft tearing of 64N, and a GB/T7573-2009 method to obtain a fabric pH value of 6.1; the fuzzing and pilling are 4/5 grade, the heat-resistant color fastness is 4/5 grade, and the feeling can not completely relieve the scratchiness of the hemp fabric.
Claims (5)
1. A finishing method of a copper ammonia hemp interwoven fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the process is realized by singeing → desizing → ultra-soft → tentering → preshrinking, in the ultra-soft process, 50% of moisture of the fabric is fed, 70-90% of air volume of a main fan, 50-70% of air volume of a lower fan, 40-60% of an exhaust fan, the drying temperature is 110-130 ℃, the built-in width is 110-120cm, the reverse execution is carried out for 3-8 s, and the vehicle speed is 8-20 m/min;
desizing is carried out by discharging cloth in a wet state with a liquid rate of 50%;
in the desizing procedure, 10-30 g of desizing enzyme, 5-10 g of refining agent and 5-10 g of penetrating agent are added into each liter of a trough of a desizing machine, the desizing enzyme is alpha-amylase, the refining agent is a special surfactant compound, and the penetrating agent is a polyethylene glycol ether derivative;
the refining agent is WR-03 produced by Ruiry fine chemical industry.
2. The finishing method of the cuprammonium china-hemp interwoven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: singeing at speed of 90-100m/min, flame strength of 8-10mbar, and fire hole position of 1#.
3. The finishing method of the cuprammonium china-hemp interwoven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the steaming temperature is 90-98 ℃, the steaming time is 5-15 minutes, and the temperature of the rinsing bath is 85-95 ℃.
4. The finishing method of the cuprammonium china-hemp interwoven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the tentering process, the tension of a padder is 150-250N, the tentering width latitudinal expansion rate is 4-6%, the speed is 50-70 m/min, the overfeed amount is 2-4%, the temperature of a drying room is 110-130 ℃, and the doffing temperature is 30-40 ℃.
5. The finishing method of the cuprammonium china-hemp interwoven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the pre-shrinking process, the temperature of the rubber blanket is 90-110 ℃, the temperature of the woolen blanket is 90-110 ℃, the pre-shrinking amount is 5-7%, and the vehicle speed is 40-60m/min.
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