CN110664687A - Skin-care type cleansing and makeup-removing cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Skin-care type cleansing and makeup-removing cream and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN110664687A
CN110664687A CN201911042440.2A CN201911042440A CN110664687A CN 110664687 A CN110664687 A CN 110664687A CN 201911042440 A CN201911042440 A CN 201911042440A CN 110664687 A CN110664687 A CN 110664687A
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makeup
collagen
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CN110664687B (en
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何梦蝶
张文泽
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Zhejiang British Tree Biotechnology Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • A61K8/9722Chlorophycota or Chlorophyta [green algae], e.g. Chlorella
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14Preparations for removing make-up
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

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Abstract

The invention discloses a skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream and a preparation method thereof, relating to the technical field of cosmetics, wherein the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream is prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by weight: fats and oils, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyethylene, microcrystalline wax; b phase component: emulsifier, trihydroxystearin; c phase component: caprylyl glycol, raw palm fruit oil; and (3) phase D component: water, asiaticoside, a sebum repairing agent, a first humectant, a second humectant and essential oil; wherein the sebum repair agent in the phase D component comprises saccharide isomer, water, citric acid and sodium citrate. The preparation method mainly comprises the following steps: s1, mixing, stirring and heating the phase A components to 90-98 ℃ to form a uniform transparent state, and cooling to 80 ℃; s2, adding the phase B component and uniformly stirring; s3, adding the C-phase component while stirring and cooling to 65 ℃; and S4, adding the phase D component, uniformly stirring, and carrying out hot filling to obtain a finished product. The invention has the technical effect of obvious and lasting moisturizing effect.

Description

Skin-care type cleansing and makeup-removing cream and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of makeup removing products, in particular to a skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Modern people have extremely high requirements on the image, and the external image of the people can be improved through makeup in special occasions or daily life. However, cosmetics are damaged if left on the skin surface for a long time, and thus, it is necessary to remove the cosmetics in a timely manner. Makeup removal is a means of removing dirt from the surface of the skin, particularly makeup cosmetics, to keep the skin clean. In order to improve the cleaning effect, a special makeup removing article is required to be used for removing makeup, and the cleaning capability is strong.
However, the skin tissue contains a certain amount of moisture, and the grease secreted by the sebaceous glands in the skin and the sweat secreted by the sweat glands are mixed together to form a thin film on the skin surface, which is called as a "sebaceous film" in medicine, and can not only moisten the skin, but also greatly reduce the evaporation of the moisture in the skin tissue. Once the sebum membrane is destroyed, not only the water retention function is reduced, but also the skin becomes dry, and is itchy and even exuviated. The reaction force to factors such as climate and the like is weakened, and the phenomena of skin redness and swelling, local redness and even sensitivity are easily caused.
Most of the makeup removing products on the market at present have strong cleaning capability and can better clean the face, but after makeup is removed and the face moisture is wiped or dried in the air, the moisture-locking and moisturizing capability of the face skin is gradually reduced due to the fact that a sebum membrane is damaged, and the face skin is easy to feel uncomfortable feelings such as dryness, peeling and the like, and is serious, even reddish, allergic and the like.
In order to solve the problems, Chinese patent with patent publication No. CN105534755A provides a refreshing mild makeup remover, which is prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 15-40% of vegetable oil, 10-20% of emulsifier, 5-20% of polyalcohol, 2-10% of solid wax, 10-30% of isopropyl palmitate, 0.1-0.5% of preservative, 0.5-1% of additive and the balance of deionized water. The refreshing mild makeup removing cream disclosed by the patent adopts components such as vegetable oil, polyhydric alcohol, solid wax, isopropyl palmitate and the like to realize makeup removing and moisturizing effects, most of the components have certain instant moisturizing and moisturizing effects, but the long-acting moisturizing capability is not strong.
Further, Chinese patent with patent publication number CN107174560A proposes a mild moisturizing and relieving cleansing water, which comprises the following raw material components in percentage by mass: 3-15% of nonionic surfactant; 8-18% of a moisturizing effective component, wherein the moisturizing effective component is a combination of an alcohol humectant, a saccharide humectant and a plant extract humectant; 3-10% of a relieving functional component, wherein the relieving functional component is any three or four of a sophora flavescens root extract, hamamelis virginiana, a white-flower spring yellow chrysanthemum extract and a tea extract; 0.01 to 0.05 percent of citric acid, 0.02 to 0.1 percent of sodium citrate, 0.15 to 0.25 percent of poly aminopropyl biguanide and the balance of water.
The mild moisturizing and relieving cleansing water disclosed by the patent enhances the long-acting moisturizing effect by adding moisturizing effect components such as an alcohol moisturizing agent, a saccharide moisturizing agent and a plant extract moisturizing agent, but realizes the cleansing effect by using nonionic surfactants, namely a compound of PEG-6 caprylic acid/capric acid glyceride, poloxamer, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, xylitol-based glucoside and water, and the nonionic surfactants such as PEG-6 caprylic acid/capric acid glyceride have strong cleansing capability and large irritation to the skin, so that the skin is easily damaged when the cleansing water is used for cleansing.
The existing makeup removing products are difficult to achieve good balance in the aspects of makeup removing, moisture preservation and skin care, so that the makeup removing products which have the effects of makeup removing, moisture preservation, skin care and the like and are good in balance are urgently needed.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream with obvious and lasting moisturizing effect.
The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
the skin-care type cleansing and makeup-removing cream is prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by weight:
phase A component: 41-91% of grease, 2-25% of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 3-11% of polyethylene and 0.3-3% of microcrystalline wax;
b phase component: 3-12% of emulsifier and 0.7-2% of trihydroxy stearin;
c phase component: 0.05-0.2% of octyl glycol and 0.05-1% of maorezu oil;
and (3) phase D component: 0.5-3% of water, 0.005-0.3% of asiaticoside, 0.005-0.5% of sebum repair agent, 0.005-0.5% of first humectant, 0.005-0.5% of second humectant and 0.01-0.5% of essential oil;
wherein the sebum repair agent in the phase D component comprises saccharide isomer, water, citric acid and sodium citrate.
By adopting the technical scheme, the grease, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyethylene and microcrystalline wax in the phase A component are oil phase components, have good compatibility with sebum on the surface layer of skin, and easily permeate into pores to clean grease dirt and powder dirt, so that the makeup removing cream has good makeup removing capability. The emulsifier in the B phase component is rapidly and spontaneously emulsified when meeting water to form an oil-in-water emulsion which is easy to disperse in water and has strong fluidity, and the grease in the residual makeup removing oil on the face, the grease and the pigment contained in the makeup and the grease secreted by the skin of a human body can be dispersed in the cleaning water and removed without mechanical force effects of kneading, scrubbing and the like, so that the makeup removing and cleaning effects are realized. Trihydroxystearin in the phase B component is used as a stabilizer of polyethylene in the phase A component and can be used as a space configuration component to stabilize laminar flow of polyethylene, so that the polyethylene is not easy to collapse, and the fluidity of the polyethylene is reduced, thereby enabling a product to stably show a macroscopic solid paste form.
The caprylyl glycol in the C phase component has the effects of moisturizing, sterilizing and preventing corrosion, and is non-toxic and high in safety to human skin; as is well known, the oil of maorel fruit is rich in oleic acid, β -carotene and vitamin E, is one of the effective antioxidants to repair cells, and the unsaturated fatty acids rich in the oil of maorel fruit contribute to the regeneration and rehydration of skin cells, thereby moisturizing the skin, and also maintain the elasticity of the skin by protecting collagen and having good permeability.
The asiaticoside in phase D has antiinflammatory and wound healing promoting effects, and can be used for relieving inflammation of skin injury and promoting healing of skin injury. The saccharide isomerate in the sebum repairing agent is derived from plant D-glucose and contains glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, psicose and other components, and can improve the gene expression level of loricrin, acid sphingomyelinase, filaggrin and hyaluronic acid synthase 3, stimulate the synthesis of ceramide and promote the combination of natural moisturizing factor NMF and hyaluronic acid, and macroscopically shows strong skin repairing effect, barrier and water retention capacity.
In conclusion, the saccharide isomerate, the oil of the sorrel and the asiaticoside are respectively used for repairing the skin from three different layers, namely the saccharide isomerate stimulates the synthesis of various proteins and ceramides on the gene expression level and provides original power for the regeneration of skin cells; the Daphnia giraldii Nitsche fruit oil provides nutrient substances for the growth and the propagation of skin cells, such as oleic acid, beta-carotene and vitamin E, improves the oxidation resistance of the cells and provides a good growth environment for the propagation of the cells; the asiaticoside accelerates the cells at the damaged part of the skin to grow together quickly when the cells grow and reproduce, thereby promoting the wound healing. Namely, the synergistic action of saccharide isomerate, the oil of the Pterocarpus marsupium and the asiatic centella total glycosides enables the skin to have strong moisturizing and repairing capabilities.
In addition, because carbonyl in the sugar structure of the saccharide isomer is combined with amino in the skin keratin, the saccharide isomer is tightly connected with the keratin and is not easy to wash off, and the saccharide isomer can be removed only when the skin stratum corneum naturally falls off, so that the saccharide isomer can play the functions of deep water locking and water retention for a long time. In addition, the first moisturizing agent, the second moisturizing agent and the essential oil in the phase D component can further enhance the skin moisturizing capability, so that the makeup removing cream has strong instant and long-acting moisturizing capability.
Further setting the following steps: the sebum repairing agent comprises 25-50% of water, 0.1-1% of citric acid, 0.1-1% of sodium citrate and the balance of saccharide isomerate.
By adopting the technical scheme, water is used as a solvent of the sebum repair agent to promote the dispersion of the saccharide isomerate, so that the dispersion capacity of the saccharide isomerate on the skin surface layer is improved; citric acid and sodium citrate are used for regulating pH of sebum repairing agent, and maintaining saccharide isomer with optimal bioactivity to stimulate gene expression level of various proteins and enhance skin repairing ability.
Further setting the following steps: the first humectant comprises chlorella extract, pentanediol, 1,2 hexanediol, butanediol, and water.
Further setting the following steps: the first humectant comprises 6.5 wt% of chlorella extract, 2 wt% of pentanediol, 2 wt% of 1,2 wt% of hexanediol, 6 wt% of butanediol and 83.5 wt% of water.
By adopting the technical scheme, the chlorella extract in the first humectant is rich in components required by life activities such as nucleotide, polysaccharide, SOD superoxide dismutase, amino acid, mineral substances, trace elements and the like, and the components synergistically act with the components such as oleic acid, beta-carotene, vitamin E and the like in the oil of the Pterocarpus marsupium fruit to provide sufficient nutrient substances such as nucleotide, sugar, amino acid, mineral substances, trace elements and the like for cell growth, so that the cell activity, the repair capability and the defense capability are increased, and the chlorella extract has the effects of oxidation resistance and whitening. The polyhydric alcohols such as pentanediol, 1,2 hexanediol and butanediol have good moisturizing and antiseptic effects, are nontoxic and safe, and are easily absorbed by skin.
Further setting the following steps: the second humectant comprises collagen and sorbitol, wherein the collagen is type I collagen, the molecular weight distribution range of 80% or more collagen peptides is 60-110KD, and the molecular weight distribution of the rest collagen peptides is 20-35 KD.
By adopting the technical scheme, the collagen contains the active raw material, namely collagen, which is absorbed by cells, and also contains proteoglycan, such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate and the like, so that the collagen can be cooperated with the Daphnia lancifera fruit oil and the chlorella extract to provide nutrient substances necessary for growth and reproduction for the cells. In addition, the collagen also contains a large number of polar groups, is a moisturizing factor and has the effect of preventing tyrosine in the skin from being converted into melanin, so the collagen has the effects of purely natural moisturizing, whitening, wrinkle resistance, freckle removal and the like. Sorbitol can be used as filler and excipient of collagen due to its molecular structure, so that collagen can maintain stable spatial configuration and exert bioactivity.
Further setting the following steps: the second humectant contains 20 wt% and 80 wt% of collagen and sorbitol, respectively.
By adopting the technical scheme, the weight ratio of the collagen in the second humectant is 20%, and the weight ratio of the sorbitol in the second humectant is 80%, so that the compound effect of the collagen and the sorbitol can be better exerted by adopting the compounding ratio, and the effects of the second humectant on promoting cell growth and moisturizing are improved.
Further setting the following steps: the collagen in the second humectant is pichia pastoris expression recombinant human-like collagen, and the peptide chains of the recombinant human-like collagen are all in a primary structure.
By adopting the technical scheme, the traditional collagen which is applied to the field of cosmetics in the market at present generally comes from hydrolysates of skins or bones of animals such as fish, cattle, pigs and the like, putrefaction and unpleasant peculiar smell easily exist, and the collagen derived from animals has hidden danger of virus infection. The pichia pastoris is a unicellular eukaryotic organism, has the characteristics of easy culture, quick propagation, high safety, convenience for gene engineering operation, high-density fermentation and the like of a prokaryotic organism, and has an intracellular environment and a sugar chain processing system which are suitable for the correct folding of eukaryotic organism gene products, so that an expression product has a natural structure and biological activity, and the pichia pastoris is secreted expression and is more beneficial to later-stage purification. After the pichia pastoris synthesizes the protein, the protein can be modified similar to the protein synthesized by the cells of higher mammals, and the protein is endowed with correct folding conformation and modification of specific amino acid, thereby playing a good repairing role on the cortex of the skin.
The sequence of amino acids in a protein polypeptide chain is the primary structure of the protein, and the folding and coiling of polypeptide chains in a protein molecule is the secondary structure of the protein. The peptide chains of the collagen are all primary structures, so that the amino acid sequences of the collagen can keep stable expression capability and stably exert biological activity.
Further setting the following steps: the grease in the phase A component is selected from one or more of isododecane, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, hydrogenated polydecene, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, grape seed oil, rice bran oil, peanut oil and crambe abyssinica seed oil.
Further setting the following steps: the polyethylene is formed by mixing two kinds of polyethylene with the penetration ranges of 4-9 and 6-12 respectively, and the penetration is different when the two kinds of polyethylene are mixed.
By adopting the technical scheme, the penetration degree refers to the depth of 150g of a standard cone sinking into a lubricating grease sample kept at 25 ℃ within 5 seconds, and the larger the penetration degree is, the softer the lubricating grease is, namely the lower the consistency is; conversely, the harder the grease, i.e., the greater the thickness. The lubricating grease with different hardness can be obtained by mixing two kinds of polyethylene with different penetration degrees, and the reasonable matching of the two kinds of polyethylene can provide better structural stability and thixotropy, so that the makeup removing cream not only stably keeps a solid form, but also is easy to push and disperse on the surface of skin, and the makeup removing and moisturizing effects are better.
The second purpose of the invention is to provide a preparation method of the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream, and the second purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
a preparation method of a skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream comprises the following steps:
s1, preparing a phase A component, mixing, stirring, heating to 90-98 ℃ to be in a uniform and transparent state, and cooling to 80 ℃;
s2, adding the phase B component, mixing and uniformly stirring the phase B component, adding the mixture into the phase A component cooled in the step S1, and uniformly stirring to obtain a primary mixed material;
s3, adding the C-phase component into the primary mixed material obtained in the step S2, and cooling to 65 ℃ while stirring to obtain a secondary mixed material;
and S4, adding the phase D component into the remixed material obtained in the step S3, uniformly stirring, and carrying out hot filling to obtain a finished product of the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream.
By adopting the technical scheme, in the step S1, the melting point of the polyethylene is usually about 80-90 ℃, so the polyethylene must be completely melted off by exceeding the melting point of the polyethylene, and the polyethylene and other liquid grease are fully melted together; and then the mixture is cooled to 80 ℃, the temperature is close to the melting point of the polyethylene, and the overall melting point of the mixture is lower than 80 ℃ due to the equilibrium effect of the liquid oil, so that the mixture in the phase A component can be ensured to be stably in a liquid state, the cooling treatment also improves the operation safety and reduces the energy consumption.
In the step S2, the phase B component is added to the phase a component after cooling, and trihydroxystearin in the phase B component stabilizes the laminar flow of polyethylene, which is equivalent to a structural stabilizer of polyethylene, so that polyethylene is not easily collapsed, and a solid paste form on a macroscopic scale is stably represented after the product is prepared.
In the step S3, in the process of adding the phase C component, the temperature is reduced to 65 ℃ while stirring, because the phase D component to be added into the re-mixed material in the step S4 contains bioactive substances such as asiaticoside, sebum repair agent, first humectant, second humectant and the like, the biological activity of the active ingredients can be damaged when the temperature is too high, and the effect is reduced; and if the temperature is too low, the re-mixed material is solidified, so that the addition and the uniform mixing of the phase D component are inconvenient, and the product effect is reduced.
In conclusion, the beneficial technical effects of the invention are as follows:
(1) the A phase component and the B phase component in the formula are used as main makeup removing components of the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream, and have good compatibility with skin grease, makeup removing grease and powder dirt, so that the makeup removing cream has good makeup removing capacity; the C-phase component and the D-phase component are used as main moisturizing and repairing components to deeply moisturize and repair the skin, so that the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream can be used for removing makeup and moisturizing and repairing the skin;
(2) the biological active ingredients such as the gross helwingia oil in the phase C component, the asiaticoside in the phase D component, the carbohydrate isomer in the sebum repair agent, the chlorella extract in the first humectant, the collagen in the second humectant and the like act synergistically to repair cells, promote the regeneration and rehydration of skin cells and improve the water retention capacity and barrier capacity of the skin, so that the makeup removing cream has the purpose of strong instant and long-acting moisturizing capacity;
(3) the polyethylene in the phase A component is compounded by adopting two polyethylenes with different penetration ranges, the two polyethylenes with different penetration ranges represent lubricating grease with different hardness, and the two polyethylenes are reasonably matched to provide more excellent structural stability and thixotropy, so that the makeup remover paste not only stably keeps a solid form, but also is easy to spread and disperse on the surface of skin, and the makeup remover and the moisturizing effect are better.
Detailed Description
The skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream provided by the embodiment of the invention is prepared from the component raw materials shown in the table 1 in percentage by weight.
Wherein the polyethylene is formed by mixing two polyethylenes with different penetration degrees, and the parameters of the two polyethylenes with different penetration degree ranges are shown in table 2.
The weight ratio of each component in the sebum repair agent is shown in table 3.
The first humectant comprises Chlorella extract 6.5%, pentanediol 2%, 1, 2-hexanediol 2%, butanediol 6%, and water 83.5%.
The second humectant is composed of collagen and sorbitol, and the second humectant has an internal ratio of collagen to sorbitol of 20% and 80% by weight, respectively. The collagen in the second humectant is pichia pastoris expression recombinant human-like collagen, and the peptide chains of the recombinant human-like collagen are all in a primary structure. The preparation method of recombinant human-like collagen expressed by pichia pastoris is disclosed in the specific implementation mode of Chinese patent with the patent publication number of CN 102146426B.
TABLE 1 ingredient content in examples 1-10 (%)
Figure BDA0002254417770000071
TABLE 2 polyethylene parameter Table for two different penetration ranges
Figure BDA0002254417770000072
Table 3 sebum repair agent in examples 1-10 content of internal component (%)
Figure BDA0002254417770000081
The preparation method of the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream comprises the following steps:
s1, preparing a phase A component, mixing, stirring, heating to 90-98 ℃ to be in a uniform and transparent state, and cooling to 80 ℃;
s2, adding the phase B component, mixing and uniformly stirring the phase B component, adding the mixture into the phase A component cooled in the step S1, and uniformly stirring to obtain a primary mixed material;
s3, adding the C-phase component into the primary mixed material obtained in the step S2, and cooling to 65 ℃ while stirring to obtain a secondary mixed material;
and S4, adding the phase D component into the remixed material obtained in the step S3, uniformly stirring, and carrying out hot filling to obtain a finished product of the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream.
The following is a further description with reference to specific examples.
Example 1: the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream comprises the components with the content shown in table 1, wherein the grease is ethylhexyl palmitate; the weight of each component in the sebum repair agent is shown in the table 2; in the S1 step, the phase A components are mixed, stirred and heated to 90 ℃. 80% of collagen peptides in the collagen have molecular weight distribution of 60-110KD, and the rest 20% of collagen peptides have molecular weight distribution of 20-35 KD.
Example 2: the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream comprises the components with the content shown in table 1, wherein the grease is prepared by compounding isododecane and isopropyl myristate in a weight ratio of 1: 1; the weight of each component in the sebum repair agent is shown in the table 2; in the S1 step, the phase A components are mixed, stirred and heated to 91 ℃. The molecular weight distribution of 83% of collagen peptides in the collagen is between 60-110KD, and the molecular weight distribution of the rest 17% of collagen peptides is between 20-35 KD.
Example 3: the skin-care type cleansing and makeup-removing cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight as shown in table 1, wherein the oil is prepared from the following components in a weight ratio of 1:1, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate and hydrogenated polydecene; the weight of each component in the sebum repair agent is shown in the table 2; in the S1 step, the phase A components are mixed, stirred and heated to 92 ℃. 85% of collagen peptides in the collagen have molecular weight distribution of 60-110KD, and the rest 15% of collagen peptides have molecular weight distribution of 20-35 KD.
Example 4: the skin-care type cleansing and makeup-removing cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight as shown in table 1, wherein the grease is prepared by compounding isopropyl myristate, grape seed oil, rice bran oil and peanut oil in a weight ratio of 1:1:1: 1; the weight of each component in the sebum repair agent is shown in the table 2; in the S1 step, the phase A components are mixed, stirred and heated to 93 ℃. The molecular weight distribution of 87% of collagen peptides in collagen is between 60-110KD, and the molecular weight distribution of the rest 13% of collagen peptides is between 20-35 KD.
Example 5: the skin-care type cleansing and makeup-removing cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight as shown in table 1, wherein the oil is prepared by compounding isododecane, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate and two sections of shepherd's purse seed oil in a weight ratio of 1:1:1:1: 1; the weight of each component in the sebum repair agent is shown in the table 2; in the S1 step, the phase A components are mixed, stirred and heated to 94 ℃. 90% of collagen peptides in the collagen have molecular weight distribution of 60-110KD, and the rest 10% of collagen peptides have molecular weight distribution of 20-35 KD.
Example 6: the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight as shown in table 1, wherein the grease is prepared by compounding isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, rice bran oil and peanut oil in a weight ratio of 1:1:1:1:1: 1; the weight of each component in the sebum repair agent is shown in the table 2; in the S1 step, the phase A components are mixed, stirred and heated to 95 ℃. The molecular weight distribution of 92% of the collagen peptides in the collagen is between 60-110KD, and the molecular weight distribution of the remaining 8% of the collagen peptides is between 20-35 KD.
Example 7: the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight as shown in table 1, wherein the grease is prepared by compounding isododecane, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, hydrogenated polydecene, ethylhexyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate and crambe abyssinica seed oil in a weight ratio of 1:1:1:1:1: 1; the weight of each component in the sebum repair agent is shown in the table 2; in the S1 step, the phase A components are mixed, stirred and heated to 96 ℃. 94% of collagen peptides in the collagen have molecular weight distribution of 60-110KD, and the rest 6% of collagen peptides have molecular weight distribution of 20-35 KD.
Example 8: the skin-care type cleansing and makeup-removing cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight as shown in table 1, wherein the oil is prepared from the following components in a weight ratio of 1:1:1:1:1:1: 1:1 isododecane, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, hydrogenated polydecene, ethylhexyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, rice bran oil and two sections of deep sea camelina sativa seed oil; the weight of each component in the sebum repair agent is shown in the table 2; in the S1 step, the phase A components are mixed, stirred and heated to 96 ℃. The molecular weight distribution of 96% of collagen peptides in the collagen is between 60-110KD, and the molecular weight distribution of the rest 4% of collagen peptides is between 20-35 KD.
Example 9: the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream comprises the components with the content shown in table 1, wherein the grease is isopropyl myristate; the weight of each component in the sebum repair agent is shown in the table 2; in the S1 step, the phase A components are mixed, stirred and heated to 97 ℃. The molecular weight distribution of 98% of collagen peptides in the collagen is between 60-110KD, and the molecular weight distribution of the rest 2% of collagen peptides is between 20-35 KD.
Example 10: the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream comprises the components with the content shown in table 1, wherein the grease is isohexadecane; the weight of each component in the sebum repair agent is shown in the table 2; in the S1 step, the phase A components are mixed, stirred and heated to 98 ℃. All collagen peptides in collagen have a molecular weight distribution of 60-110 kD.
Example 11: the difference between the embodiment and the embodiment 1 is that the weight ratio of each component in the sebum repair agent is 10 percent of saccharide isomer, 88.5 percent of water, 0.75 percent of citric acid and 0.75 percent of sodium citrate.
Example 12: the difference between the embodiment and the embodiment 1 is that the weight ratio of each component in the sebum repair agent is 25 percent of saccharide isomer, 74 percent of water, 0.5 percent of citric acid and 0.5 percent of sodium citrate.
Example 13: the difference between the embodiment and the embodiment 1 is that the weight ratio of each component in the sebum repair agent is 48% of saccharide isomer, 54% of water, 0.6% of citric acid and 0.4% of sodium citrate.
Example 14: the difference between the embodiment and the embodiment 1 is that the weight ratio of each component in the sebum repair agent is 76% of saccharide isomer, 23% of water, 0.6% of citric acid and 0.4% of sodium citrate.
Example 15: the difference between the embodiment and the embodiment 1 is that the weight ratio of each component in the sebum repair agent is 85% of saccharide isomer, 13% of water, 1.0% of citric acid and 1.0% of sodium citrate.
Comparative example 1: the comparative example adopts the technical scheme given in the example 1 in the Chinese patent with the publication number of CN 105534755A.
Comparative example 2: the comparative example adopts the technical scheme given in the example 2 in the Chinese patent with the publication number of CN 105534755A.
Comparative example 3: the comparative example adopts the technical scheme given in the example 4 in the Chinese patent with the publication number of CN 107174560A.
Comparative example 4: the comparative example adopts the technical scheme given in the example 5 in the Chinese patent with the publication number of CN 107174560A.
Comparative example 5: this comparative example differs from example 3 in that the saccharide isomer in the sebum repair agent was replaced with an equal amount of water, the oil of maurel fruit was replaced with an equal amount of caprylyl glycol, the chlorella extract in the first moisturizer was replaced with an equal amount of water, the collagen in the second moisturizer was replaced with an equal amount of sorbitol, and the asiaticoside was replaced with an equal amount of water.
Comparative example 6: this comparative example differs from example 3 in that the oil of mazuki fruit was replaced with an equal amount of caprylyl glycol, the chlorella extract in the first moisturizer was replaced with an equal amount of water, and the collagen in the second moisturizer was replaced with lighted sorbitol.
Comparative example 7: this comparative example differs from example 3 in that the saccharide isomer in the sebum repair agent was replaced with an equal amount of water and the centella total glycosides were replaced with an equal amount of water.
Comparative example 8: this comparative example differs from example 3 in that the collagen in the second humectant was replaced with an equal amount of sorbitol.
Comparative example 9: this comparative example differs from example 9 in that the polyethylene in the phase A component is entirely polyethylene with a penetration between 4 and 9.
Comparative example 10: this comparative example differs from example 9 in that the polyethylene in the phase A component is entirely polyethylene with a penetration between 6 and 12.
Efficacy testing
The test method comprises the following steps: 125 women of 20-40 years old in the test population were randomly selected, skin healthy, no history of allergies, and subjects were divided into 25 groups of 5 people each. After all the subjects apply the same cosmetics to the faces, the magic mirror skin detector is used for detecting the sebum damage ratio, then 1g of the makeup removing products obtained in examples 1-15 and comparative examples 1-10 is used for wiping the faces for 1min, the faces are cleaned with clear water and are naturally dried for 10min, the time is recorded as 0h, then the magic mirror skin detector is used for detecting the acne ratio, the moisture loss ratio and the sebum damage ratio of each subject at 0h, the moisture loss ratio and the sebum damage ratio of each subject at 2h, 4h, 8h and 12h, the average value of the detection data of each group of subjects is taken as the final detection value of the detection item, and the detection results are shown in tables 4 and 5.
Table 4 table of efficacy testing data for examples 1-15
Figure BDA0002254417770000111
TABLE 5 table of efficacy test data for comparative examples 1-10
Analysis of test data:
as can be seen from the data of the examples 1-15 in Table 4, the examples 1-15 all have good effects of removing makeup, moisturizing and repairing damaged skin. The concrete embodiment is as follows:
(1) in examples 1-15, the proportion of acne on the face of the subject after makeup removal is about 3-4%, and the main purpose of the acne test item is to determine the content of makeup removal residues (such as redundant makeup grease and makeup dust particles) on the face of the subject. Compared with comparative examples 1,2, 3 and 4, the acne proportion in the examples of the invention is relatively smaller, which shows that compared with the makeup removing products in the prior art, the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream of the invention has the advantages of more thorough makeup removal, less residue and better makeup removing effect.
(2) The water loss ratios of all subjects in tables 4 and 5 gradually increased with time, indicating that the moisture content of the top skin of the face of the subject was gradually decreasing after the makeup removal and cleansing. The facial water loss ratio of the subjects in examples 1-15 after 12h of makeup removal and cleansing is about 30%, while the facial water loss ratio of the subjects in comparative examples 1,2, 3 and 4 after 12h of makeup removal and cleansing is as high as 70-80%, which shows that the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removal cream has good and durable moisturizing performance and can effectively slow down the skin water loss.
(3) The purpose of the test of the sebum damage ratio item is to measure the skin damage, redness and itching, etc. on the face of the subject. In table 4, the sebum damage ratio before makeup removal was approximately 37% for all the subjects, indicating that the initial sebum damage condition was similar for all the subjects. According to the change data of the sebum damage ratio of the subjects in the examples 1-15 with time, the sebum damage ratio of the subjects in the examples 1-15 is reduced with time, which shows that the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream has good repairing effect on the skin of the subjects, thereby reducing the epidermis damage of the subjects.
It can be seen from tables 4 and 5 that the sebum damage ratio of the subjects in comparative examples 1 and 2 did not decrease with time but tended to increase slowly, indicating that the makeup remover products in comparative examples 1 and 2 had substantially no ability to repair the skin. The slow decrease in the proportion of sebum damage in the subjects in comparative examples 3 and 4 with time indicates that the makeup remover products in comparative examples 3 and 4 have some immediate repair ability to the skin, but weak repair effect. In addition, in comparative examples 3 and 4, the sebum damage rate of the subject at 0 after makeup removal is greatly improved compared with the sebum damage rate of the subject before makeup removal, which indicates that the makeup removal products in comparative examples 3 and 4 have large irritation to the facial skin of the subject and easily damage the sebum layer during makeup removal.
(4) From tables 4 and 5, the following rules can be found for the test data of comparative example 3 and comparative example 5, comparative example 6, comparative example 7 and comparative example 8:
a. comparing comparative example 5 with example 3, it was found that saccharide isomerate, collagen, oil of mauritia lancifolia, chlorella vulgaris extract and asiaticoside when compounded had a large effect on makeup removing efficacy, long-lasting moisturizing efficacy and sebum repair efficacy of the skin care type cleansing cream. It can be known from the combination of the comparative examples 6, 7 and 8 that when only one or more (but not all) of the saccharide isomer, the collagen, the Elaeagnus lanuginosa oil, the chlorella extract and the asiaticoside are compounded in the formula, the makeup removing effect, the moisturizing effect or the repairing effect of the makeup removing cream prepared by the formula cannot reach a good level at the same time, which indicates that the saccharide isomer, the collagen, the Elaeagnus lanuginosa oil, the chlorella extract and the asiaticoside generate a synergistic effect when being compounded, so that the makeup removing, the long-acting moisturizing and the skin repairing effects of the skin-care type makeup removing cream are improved to a great extent at the same time.
b. Comparing comparative examples 9 and 10 with example 9, it can be seen that when the polyethylene in phase a is only one of polyethylenes with penetration degrees of 4-9 or 6-12, the makeup removing effect, the moisturizing effect and the repairing effect of the skin care makeup remover are all inferior to those of example 9, which indicates that the polyethylenes with two penetration degrees have certain improvement effects on the makeup removing, the moisturizing and the repairing effects of the skin care makeup remover, and the reasonable matching of the two polyethylenes with different penetration degrees analyzed above can provide more excellent structural stability and thixotropy, so that the makeup remover not only stably maintains the solid form, but also is easy to be pushed away and dispersed on the skin surface, and the principle of better makeup removing and moisturizing effects is conformed.
The implementation principle and the beneficial effects of the embodiment are as follows: in the formula, besides conventional moisture-keeping components such as polyhydric alcohol, saccharide isomerate, Elaeagnus lancifolia fruit oil, chlorella vulgaris extract, collagen and centella asiatica total glycosides are added, and the components are respectively used for repairing the skin from three different layers, namely the saccharide isomerate stimulates the synthesis of various proteins and ceramides on the gene expression level, so that original power is provided for the regeneration of skin cells; the Daphnia lansium fruit oil, the chlorella extract and the collagen provide nutrient substances for the growth and the propagation of skin cells, such as oleic acid, beta-carotene, vitamin E, nucleotide, polysaccharide, SOD superoxide dismutase, amino acid, mineral substances, trace elements, hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate and other proteoglycan nutrient substances, and provide a good growth environment for the propagation of the cells; the asiaticoside accelerates the cells at the damaged part of the skin to grow together quickly when the cells grow and reproduce, thereby promoting the wound healing. Namely, the synergistic action of saccharide isomerate, the oil of the Pterocarpus marsupium and the asiatic centella total glycosides enables the skin to have strong moisturizing and repairing capabilities.
The embodiments of the present invention are preferred embodiments of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited by these embodiments, so: all equivalent changes made according to the structure, shape and principle of the invention are covered by the protection scope of the invention.

Claims (10)

1. The skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream is characterized by being prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by weight:
phase A component: 41-91% of grease, 2-25% of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 3-11% of polyethylene and 0.3-3% of microcrystalline wax;
b phase component: 3-12% of emulsifier and 0.7-2% of trihydroxy stearin;
c phase component: 0.05-0.2% of octyl glycol and 0.05-1% of maorezu oil;
and (3) phase D component: 0.5-3% of water, 0.005-0.3% of asiaticoside, 0.005-0.5% of sebum repair agent, 0.005-0.5% of first humectant, 0.005-0.5% of second humectant and 0.01-0.5% of essential oil;
wherein the sebum repair agent in the phase D component comprises saccharide isomer, water, citric acid and sodium citrate.
2. The skin-care cleansing and makeup-removing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: the sebum repairing agent comprises 25-50% of water, 0.1-1% of citric acid, 0.1-1% of sodium citrate and the balance of saccharide isomerate.
3. The skin-care cleansing and makeup-removing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: the first humectant comprises chlorella extract, pentanediol, 1,2 hexanediol, butanediol, and water.
4. The skin-care cleansing and makeup-removing cream according to claim 3, characterized in that: the first humectant comprises 6.5 wt% of chlorella extract, 2 wt% of pentanediol, 2 wt% of 1,2 wt% of hexanediol, 6 wt% of butanediol and 83.5 wt% of water.
5. The skin-care cleansing and makeup-removing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: the second humectant comprises collagen and sorbitol, wherein the collagen is type I collagen, the molecular weight distribution range of 80% or more collagen peptides is 60-110KD, and the molecular weight distribution of the rest collagen peptides is 20-35 KD.
6. The skin-care cleansing and makeup-removing cream according to claim 5, characterized in that: the second humectant contains 20 wt% and 80 wt% of collagen and sorbitol, respectively.
7. The skin-care type cleansing makeup-removing cream according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that: the collagen in the second humectant is pichia pastoris expression recombinant human-like collagen, and the peptide chains of the recombinant human-like collagen are all in a primary structure.
8. The skin-care cleansing and makeup-removing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: the grease in the phase A component is selected from one or more of isododecane, isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, hydrogenated polydecene, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, grape seed oil, rice bran oil, peanut oil and crambe abyssinica seed oil.
9. The skin-care cleansing and makeup-removing cream according to claim 1, characterized in that: the polyethylene in the phase A component is formed by mixing two polyethylenes with different penetration degrees, and the penetration degrees of the two polyethylenes are respectively 4-9 and 6-12.
10. A method of preparing a skin-care cleansing cream according to claims 1 to 9, comprising the steps of:
s1.A phase component preparation: mixing, stirring and heating the phase A component to 90-98 ℃ until the phase A component is in a uniform and transparent state, and then cooling to 80 ℃;
s2, adding a phase B component: mixing and uniformly stirring the phase B component, adding the mixture into the phase A component cooled in the step S1, and uniformly stirring to obtain a primary mixed material;
s3, adding a C phase component: adding the C-phase component into the primary mixed material obtained in the step S2, and cooling to 65 ℃ while stirring to obtain a secondary mixed material;
s4, adding a phase D component: and adding the phase D component into the remixed material obtained in the step S3, uniformly stirring, and then carrying out hot filling to obtain a finished product of the skin-care type cleansing and makeup removing cream.
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