Formula process and preparation method of multi-dimensional whitening with yellow removal function
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a formula process and a preparation method of multidimensional whitening with yellow removal.
Background
The rapid development of Chinese economy prompts people to strongly pursue beauty treatment, particularly for women. Just called "one white clown masking" whitening is in great demand for women loving beauty, especially women in the asia-pacific region. The whitening method mainly comprises chemical stripping, spot removing, whitening, physical covering, whitening, biological agent whitening and the like. Although the effects of chemical stripping, spot removing and whitening are obvious, the skin irritation to the human body is large, and the safety cannot be ensured; physical masking whitening has the disadvantages of complex use and short whitening duration, so the current popular mode is whitening through biological agents. Intensive research and research show that the biological agent has the following disadvantages:
(1) The whitening effect is not obvious;
(2) Incompatibility with other raw materials;
(3) The raw material has poor stability and is easy to inactivate;
(4) Easy sensitization;
therefore, the development of a good whitening product which is safe, mild, non-irritant, remarkable in whitening effect and stable has a great application value.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a formula process and a preparation method of multidimensional whitening which gives consideration to yellow removal, has the advantages of obvious skin whitening effect, safety, mildness and no stimulation to human skin, and solves the problems of whitening by biological agents: 1) the whitening effect is not obvious; 2) incompatibility with other raw materials; 3) the raw material has poor stability and is easy to inactivate; 4) easy sensitization.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides the following technical scheme: a whitening composition comprising: sucrose dilaurate, pea extract, carnosine, and Melia azedarach extract.
Preferably, the whitening composition comprises the following active ingredients in percentage by mass based on the total mass of the whitening composition: 0.1 to 2 percent of sucrose dilaurate, 0.1 to 3 percent of pea extract, 0.1 to 5 percent of carnosine and 0.05 to 0.5 percent of chinaberry extract.
Preferably, the whitening composition can be used for preparing cosmetics with whitening effects, including aqua, lotion, cream, gel or mask, and the weight percentage of the whitening composition in the cosmetics is 0.5% -8%.
Preferably, the whitening composition is contained in the cosmetic in an amount of 2 to 4% by weight.
an emulsion, wherein the emulsion comprises the following components in percentage by mass based on the total mass of the whitening composition: 0.5-5% of whitening composition, 0.3-3% of preservative, 2-15% of humectant, 1-5% of emulsifier, 3-20% of emollient, 0.2-0.5% of suspending agent, pH regulator and the balance of water.
Preferably, the preservative is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl hydroxamic acid and pentanediol.
Preferably, the humectant is selected from one or more of propylene glycol, glycerin, betaine and hyaluronic acid.
Preferably, the emulsifier is one or more selected from potassium cetyl phosphate, cetearyl alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, and polysorbate-60.
Preferably, the emollient is selected from jojoba seed oil, one or more of the isomeric hexadecanes, isopropyl myristate, and polydimethylsiloxane.
Preferably, the suspending agent is selected from one or more of cellulose, carbomer and sclerotium rolfsii.
preferably, the Ph regulator is selected from one of potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine and arginine.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects: according to the whitening composition, the sucrose dilaurate can effectively act on B16 melanocytes, so that the maturity of melanosomes is remarkably reduced, the activity of tyrosinase in the melanocytes is reduced, the synthesis of melanin is prevented, and the skin color is brightened; the pea extract can directly act on cells to promote the synthesis of collagen, elastin and chitosan, and protect protein from being degraded by inhibiting the activity of protease, thereby effectively improving the elasticity and tension of skin; carnosine is a high-efficiency biological peptide, has the functions of resisting oxidation and aging, removing oxygen radicals and preventing cell DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid) damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation, particularly has extremely strong anti-glycosylation effect, and has particularly obvious yellow removing effect on yellow skin; melia azedarach (Lansium DOMESTIC) extract can act on miR-490-3P fragment (controlling RNA fragment synthesized by tyrosinase), increase miRNA expression, and inhibit mRNA expression, thereby reducing tyrosinase synthesis and melanin generation. The whitening composition provided by the invention adopts four components, can obviously inhibit the activity of the tyrosinase, promotes the synthesis of collagen and elastin, inhibits glycosylation reaction, and has obvious effects of removing yellow, whitening and brightening.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic illustration of the component ratios of an example of the present invention and a comparative example;
FIG. 2 is a schematic representation of a summary of the physicochemical properties of the whitening emulsions of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the rate of change of melanin content in the skin according to the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Referring to fig. 1 to 3, the present invention provides a technical solution: a whitening composition comprising: sucrose dilaurate, pea extract, carnosine, and Melia azedarach extract.
The whitening composition comprises the following active components in percentage by mass based on the total mass of the whitening composition: 0.1 to 2 percent of sucrose dilaurate, 0.1 to 3 percent of pea extract, 0.1 to 5 percent of carnosine and 0.05 to 0.5 percent of chinaberry extract.
The whitening composition may be used in the preparation of cosmetics having whitening effects, including but not limited to: the whitening composition is a water agent, an emulsion, a cream, a gel or a mask, and the weight percentage of the whitening composition in the cosmetic is 0.5-8%.
The whitening composition accounts for 2 to 4 percent of the weight of the cosmetic.
taking the emulsion as an example, the emulsion takes the total mass of the whitening composition as a reference, and the mass percentage range of the emulsion is as follows: 0.5-5% of whitening composition, 0.3-3% of preservative, 2-15% of humectant, 1-5% of emulsifier, 3-20% of emollient, 0.2-0.5% of suspending agent, pH regulator and the balance of water.
The preservative is one or more selected from phenoxyethanol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylhydroxamic acid and pentanediol.
the humectant is one or more selected from propylene glycol, glycerol, betaine, and hyaluronic acid.
The emulsifier is one or more selected from potassium cetyl phosphate, cetearyl alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, and polysorbate-60.
The emollient is selected from one or more of jojoba seed oil, isomeric hexadecane, isopropyl myristate, and polydimethylsiloxane.
The suspending agent is one or more selected from cellulose, carbomer and sclerotium rolfsii gum.
The Ph regulator is selected from potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, and arginine.
preparation method of examples and comparative examples:
1) Weighing the phase A raw materials in a beaker in sequence, heating to 90 ℃ under stirring, homogenizing at medium speed for 2min to completely disperse and dissolve the raw materials, sterilizing at constant temperature for 10min, and stirring uniformly at low speed for later use;
2) Weighing the raw materials of phase B into another beaker in sequence, heating to 75 ℃ under stirring, and stirring at constant temperature and low speed for 3min to completely dissolve the raw materials;
3) Adding the processed B-phase raw material into the A-phase under medium-speed stirring, homogenizing at medium speed for 3min, and stirring at medium speed for cooling;
4) Cooling to 70 ℃, stirring at constant temperature for 10min, adding the C-phase raw material after complete defoaming, and stirring uniformly at low speed;
5) Stirring at low speed, cooling to 45 deg.C, sequentially adding D phase raw materials, stirring at medium speed for 5min, and mixing.
Second, the physicochemical properties, safety and efficacy evaluation of the products in the examples and comparative examples
1. Physical and chemical properties
The whitening emulsions of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were subjected to a stability test according to a method commonly used in the cosmetics industry, and a pH value test was performed according to the measurement of pH value according to "technical specification for cosmetic safety" (2015 edition) "hygienic chemistry test method". The results are shown in FIG. 2.
As can be seen from FIG. 2, the whitening emulsion added with the whitening composition has good stability in heat resistance, cold resistance and circulation test, the pH value is close to that of human skin, and the whitening emulsion has no burden
2. Evaluation of safety
The whitening emulsion liquids prepared in example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were subjected to safety evaluation.
The skin of 20 subjects aged 20-50 years is healthy. Groups were randomized, 10 people each.
Dropping 0.020-0.025 mL of a test object into a spot tester, externally applying a special adhesive tape to cover the arm of the test object, wherein the test area can not be washed during the test period, removing the test object after 24 hours, observing skin reactions after 0.5, 6, 12, 24 and 48 hours after the test object is removed respectively, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in the cosmetic hygiene Specification.
The results of the patch test on the skin of a human body show that: each group of subjects observe skin reactions at 0.5, 6, 12, 24 and 48 hours through a spot-pasting experiment of the whitening emulsion, wherein 0 case has adverse skin reactions, which indicates that the whitening emulsion added with the whitening compound is safe to use.
3. Evaluation of efficacy
The whitening emulsions prepared in comparative examples 1 to 5 of example 1 were evaluated for efficacy.
The test subjects are 96, the age interval is 20-55 years, wherein 84 female subjects and 12 male subjects are selected. Subjects were randomized and evenly divided into 6 groups of 16 people each. The whitening emulsions prepared in comparative examples 1 to 5 of example 1 were used once a day at night in an amount of 0.15 to 0.25g, and the test area was the left cheek and the right cheek of the volunteer were the control. During the test period, the facial skin condition of the subjects could not be analyzed using the CK MPA580 skin tester, the Mexameter skin melanin and heme test probes on days 1, 7, 14, and 28, respectively, using any other whitening product, and the results are shown in fig. 3.
as can be seen from the data of fig. 3, the melanin content of comparative example 1, to which the whitening composition was not added, was minimized, the melanin content of other whitening compositions, such as comparative examples 2 to 5, or example 1, to which the whitening composition was added in its entirety, was significantly reduced, and the skin was significantly whitened and brightened.
The working principle is as follows: according to the whitening composition, the sucrose dilaurate can effectively act on B16 melanocytes, so that the maturity of melanosomes is remarkably reduced, the activity of tyrosinase in the melanocytes is reduced, the synthesis of melanin is prevented, and the skin color is brightened; the pea extract can directly act on cells to promote the synthesis of collagen, elastin and chitosan, and protect protein from being degraded by inhibiting the activity of protease, thereby effectively improving the elasticity and tension of skin; carnosine is a high-efficiency biological peptide, has the functions of resisting oxidation and aging, removing oxygen radicals and preventing cell DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid) damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation, particularly has extremely strong anti-glycosylation effect, and has particularly obvious yellow removing effect on yellow skin; melia azedarach (Lansium Melia) extract can increase miRNA expression and inhibit mRNA expression by acting on miR-490-3P fragment (controlling RNA fragment synthesized by tyrosinase), thereby reducing tyrosinase synthesis and melanin generation. The whitening composition provided by the invention adopts four components, can obviously inhibit the activity of the tyrosinase, promotes the synthesis of collagen and elastin, inhibits glycosylation reaction, and has obvious effects of removing yellow, whitening and brightening.
Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.