CN110327253B - 一种温和的去角质泥膜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种温和的去角质泥膜及其制备方法,该去角质泥膜由以下原料制成:丁二醇、甘油、泛醇、高岭土、石蜡、增稠剂、乳化剂、润肤剂、皮肤调理剂、防腐剂、玫瑰精油、中和剂、纯化水,其中高岭土能够吸附油脂、污垢,软化坏死老废角质,搭配石蜡在半干燥状时揉搓脱落;玫瑰精油具有提亮肤色的功效;羟苯甲酯与羟苯丙酯、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲复配作为防腐剂,解决了泥膜易长菌的问题,同时降低了刺激性。本发明泥膜为白色泥状外观,肤感柔滑且易铺展,使用中吸收油脂,补水保湿,软化去除老废角质的同时给肌肤提供养分,在使用半干燥后用手轻轻按摩揉搓就能完全脱落,告别传统泥膜的清洗不便,且温和无刺激,适用任何肤质。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域,具体涉及一种温和的去角质泥膜,以及该泥膜的制备方法。
背景技术
目前,化妆品市场上的去角质类产品主要以凝胶、啫喱、乳霜状态的居多,泥膜类型的不多见。市面上的去角质产品,大多通过物理和化学方法去角质。物理方法采用磨砂颗粒或聚合物并不能达到理想的效果,使用完后残留物质都在肌肤表面。化学方法用酸类去角质,一般对皮肤的刺激性比较大。温和安全有效的去角质产品,是人们一直期待的。
在中国面膜类化妆品市场上,排名靠前的产品中涂抹类的面膜中的泥膜占据较大比例。人们较多喜欢泥膜主要是因为能够深层清洁,另外还有补水保湿、美白、紧致肌肤等各种功效。但泥膜清洁不便,过度清洁又会损伤皮肤,而且现市售产品中去角质泥膜类很少见。
目前市场上,能够温和、安全、有效去角质的泥膜剂型产品很少,兼具去角质的功效和泥膜的肤感于一身,在使用完后又能够方便快捷的清洗掉,这个在目前的化妆品领域上还是一个值得探究的课题。
发明内容
本发明的目的是解决去角质泥膜清洁不便的问题,提供一种兼具温和、安全、有效去角质功效,且易铺展、易干、易清洁,同时让肌肤细腻嫩滑的泥膜剂型产品,并未该产品提供一种制备方法。
为实现上述目的,按质量百分比计,本发明采用的温和的去角质泥膜按质量百分比计,包括丁二醇0.8%~5%、甘油0~3%、泛醇0.3%~1.5%、高岭土8%~20%、卡波姆0.02%~0.15%、黄原胶0.05%~0.3%、鲸蜡硬脂醇1%~5%、石蜡4%~15%、乳化剂2%~5%、润肤剂3%~10%、皮肤调理剂1%~5%、羟苯甲酯0.1%~0.3%、羟苯丙脂0.02%~0.2%、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲0.2%~0.5%、玫瑰精油0.05%~0.2%、中和剂0.01%~0.04%、余量为纯水。
本发明温和的去角质泥膜按质量百分比计,优选包括丁二醇1%~3%、甘油1~2%、泛醇0.5%~1%、高岭土10%~18%、卡波姆0.06%~0.1%、黄原胶0.1%~0.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇1.5%~4%、石蜡5%~13%、乳化剂2.8%~4.5%、润肤剂3.6%~8.2%、皮肤调理剂1.8%~3.5%、羟苯甲酯0.12%~0.2%、羟苯丙脂0.05%~0.15%、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲0.25%~0.35%、玫瑰精油0.05%~0.1%、中和剂0.015%~0.025%、余量为纯水。
上述的高岭土的粒径为3000~6000目。
上述的乳化剂为PEG-100硬脂酸酯与甘油硬脂酸脂的混合物,其中PEG-100硬脂酸酯占去角质泥膜质量的0.8%~1.75%,甘油硬脂酸脂占去角质泥膜质量的1.2%~3.25%。
上述的润肤剂为硬脂酸与棕榈酸已基己脂、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、环己硅氧烷、生育酚已基己脂的混合物,其中硬脂酸占去角质泥膜质量的0.4%~1.2%,棕榈酸已基己脂占去角质泥膜质量的0.8%~5%,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷占去角质泥膜质量的1%~2.5%,环己硅氧烷占去角质泥膜质量的0.5%~1.5%,生育酚已基己脂占去角质泥膜质量的0.1%~0.2%。
上述的皮肤调理剂为马齿苋提取物与β-葡聚糖的混合物,其中马齿苋提取物占去角质泥膜质量的0.5%~3%,β-葡聚糖占去角质泥膜质量的0.5%~2%。
上述的中和剂为氢氧化钾、精氨酸、三乙醇胺、氨丁三醇中任意一种,优选氢氧化钾,且氢氧化钾与卡波姆的质量比为1:3~4。
本发明温和的去角质泥膜的制备方法由下述步骤组成:
1、向乳化锅中依次加入乳化剂、润肤剂、鲸蜡硬脂醇、石蜡、羟苯丙酯后,关闭乳化锅,在搅拌状态下加热至80~85℃,保温8~10min,直至完全溶解。
2、向水相锅中抽入纯水,并依次加入丁二醇、甘油、卡波姆、黄原胶、泛醇、羟苯甲酯后,关闭水相锅,在搅拌状态下加热至80~85℃,保温8~10min后均质3~5min。
3、抽步骤2中水相锅内物料至步骤1的乳化锅内,开启搅拌40r/min,调节温度至80~85℃,真空保温搅拌15~25min,均质3~5min,然后加入高岭土,在80~85℃的状态下搅拌20~30分钟,然后抽真空,均质6~8min,直至高岭土完全分散均匀。
4、开启冷却水降温,待温度降至35~45℃时,加入中和剂、皮肤调理剂、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、玫瑰精油继续搅拌均匀,检测合格后,冷却降温至30~40℃出料。
本发明的有益效果如下:
1、本发明去角质泥膜能够软化去除老废角质,主要在与配方添加的高岭土与石蜡。高岭土结构特殊,以它为基质的泥状面膜在电镜下观察是由小颗粒组成的,每个小颗粒都是无数的小孔,湿润状态下,这些孔里充满了水,什么也吸附不了。当泥膜变干的时候,这些孔就腾出空间,开始吸附肌肤上多余的油脂、污垢和坏死老废角质。将高岭土与石蜡黄金比例搭配使用在半干燥状态,用手轻轻按摩揉搓,干掉的泥膜就会像磨砂颗粒一样对皮肤进行按摩,最终泥膜连同老废角质完全掉落。同时本发明泥膜中的防腐剂将苯甲酯与羟苯丙酯、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲复配,解决了泥膜类产品易长菌的问题,同时降低了在使用中的刺激性;添加玫瑰精油,具有提亮肤色的功效。
2、本发明去角质泥膜不同于传统物理和化学去角质方法,不含物理和化学去角质成分,温和无刺激,能够温和安全的去角质,同时给肌肤提供养分,适用任何肤质。
3、本发明去角质泥膜为白色泥状外观,肤感柔滑且易铺展易干,使用中吸收油脂,补水保湿,软化清理老废角质,在使用半干燥后用手轻轻按摩揉搓就能完全脱落,解决了现有泥膜类产品难清洗的问题。
4、本发明去角质泥膜添加粒径较小的高岭土和抗敏舒缓成分,能够吸附肌肤上多余的油脂,抗敏舒缓,为肌肤补充矿物质元素,使肌肤细腻柔软。同时添加玫瑰精油能以内养外淡化斑点,促进黑色素分解,令肌肤白嫩弹润。
附图说明
图1是刚涂抹实施例2去角质泥膜后的状态。
图2是涂抹实施例2去角质泥膜15~20分钟左右的半干燥状态。
图3是涂抹的实施例2去角质泥膜半干燥状态时揉搓后的状态。
图4是涂抹的实施例2去角质泥膜揉搓后(未清洗)的状态。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图和实施例对本发明作进一步的详细说明,但本发明的保护范围不仅限于这些实施例。
实施例1
以制备1000g去角质泥膜为例,其由30g丁二醇、5g泛醇、100g 5000目高岭土、1g卡波姆、1g黄原胶、40g鲸蜡硬脂醇、130g石蜡、10g PEG-100硬脂酸酯、25g甘油硬脂酸脂、8g硬脂酸、10g棕榈酸已基己脂、13g环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、7g环己硅氧烷、2g生育酚已基己脂、8gβ-葡聚糖、10g马齿苋提取物、1.2g羟苯甲酯、1g羟苯丙酯、2.5g双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、0.5g玫瑰精油、0.25g氢氧化钾、594.55g纯水组成,其制备方法如下:
1、向乳化锅中依次加入PEG-100硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸脂、硬脂酸、棕榈酸已基己脂、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、环己硅氧烷、生育酚已基己脂、鲸蜡硬脂醇、石蜡、羟苯丙酯后,关闭乳化锅。设置乳化锅温度为85℃,开启加热,以35转/分钟进行搅拌加热至80~85℃,保温10min,直至完全溶解。
2、将水相锅中抽入纯水,并依次加入丁二醇、卡波姆、黄原胶、泛醇、羟苯甲酯后,关闭水相锅。设置水相锅温度为85℃,开启加热,以35转/分钟进行搅拌加热至80~85℃,保温10min后均质3min。
3、抽步骤2中水相锅内物料至步骤1的乳化锅内,开启搅拌40r/min,调节温度至80~85℃,真空保温搅拌20min,均质5min;待温度升至85℃,保持温度,加入高岭土,在85℃的状态下搅拌30分钟,然后抽真空,均质6~8min,直至高岭土完全分散均匀。
4、开启冷却水降温,待温度降至45℃以下时,加入氢氧化钾、马齿苋提取物、β-葡聚糖、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、玫瑰精油继续搅拌均匀,检测合格后,冷却降温至35℃出料。
实施例2
以制备1000g去角质泥膜为例,其由20g丁二醇、10g甘油、10g泛醇、150g5000目高岭土、0.8g卡波姆、2g黄原胶、25g鲸蜡硬脂醇、65g石蜡、12.5g PEG-100硬脂酸酯、22.5g甘油硬脂酸脂、5g硬脂酸、40g棕榈酸已基己脂、19.5g环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、10.5g环己硅氧烷、2g生育酚已基己脂、10gβ-葡聚糖、20g马齿苋提取物、1.5g羟苯甲酯、0.5g羟苯丙酯、3g双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、1g玫瑰精油、0.2g氢氧化钾、569g纯水组成,其制备方法如下:
1、向乳化锅中依次加入PEG-100硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸脂、硬脂酸、棕榈酸已基己脂、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、环己硅氧烷、生育酚已基己脂、鲸蜡硬脂醇、石蜡、羟苯丙酯后,关闭乳化锅。设置乳化锅温度为85℃,开启加热,以35转/分钟进行搅拌加热至80~85℃,保温10min,直至完全溶解。
2、将水相锅中抽入纯水,并依次加入丁二醇、甘油、卡波姆、黄原胶、泛醇、羟苯甲酯后,关闭水相锅。设置水相锅温度为85℃,开启加热,以35转/分钟进行搅拌加热至80~85℃,保温10min后均质3min。
3、抽步骤2中水相锅内物料至步骤1乳化锅内,开启搅拌40r/min,调节温度至80~85℃,真空保温搅拌20min,均质5min;待温度升至85℃,保持温度,加入高岭土,在85℃的状态下搅拌30分钟,然后抽真空,均质6~8min,直至高岭土完全分散均匀。
4、开启冷却水降温,待温度降至45℃以下时,加入氢氧化钾、马齿苋提取物、β-葡聚糖、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、玫瑰精油继续搅拌均匀,检测合格后,冷却降温至35℃出料。
实施例3
以制备1000g去角质泥膜为例,其由10g丁二醇、20g甘油、8g泛醇、180g 5000目高岭土、0.6g卡波姆、2g黄原胶、15g鲸蜡硬脂醇、50g石蜡、15g PEG-100硬脂酸酯、23g甘油硬脂酸脂、10g硬脂酸、20g棕榈酸已基己脂、16.25g环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、8.75g环己硅氧烷、1g生育酚已基己脂、15gβ-葡聚糖、15g马齿苋提取物、2g羟苯甲酯、1.5g羟苯丙酯、3.5g双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、0.8g玫瑰精油、0.15g氢氧化钾、582.45g纯水组成,其制备方法如下:
1、向乳化锅中依次加入PEG-100硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸脂、硬脂酸、棕榈酸已基己脂、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、环己硅氧烷、生育酚已基己脂、鲸蜡硬脂醇、石蜡、羟苯丙酯后,关闭乳化锅。设置乳化锅温度为85℃,开启加热,以35转/分钟进行搅拌加热至80~85℃,保温10min,直至完全溶解。
2、将水相锅中抽入纯水,并依次加入丁二醇、甘油、卡波姆、黄原胶、泛醇、羟苯甲酯后,关闭水相锅。设置水相锅温度为85℃,开启加热,以35转/分钟进行搅拌加热至80~85℃,保温10min后均质3min。
3、抽步骤2中水相锅内物料至步骤1乳化锅内,开启搅拌40r/min,调节温度至80~85℃,真空保温搅拌20min,均质5min;待温度升至85℃,保持温度,加入高岭土,在85℃的状态下搅拌30分钟,然后抽真空,均质6~8min,直至高岭土完全分散均匀。
4、开启冷却水降温,待温度降至45℃以下时,加入氢氧化钾、马齿苋提取物、β-葡聚糖、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、玫瑰精油继续搅拌均匀,检测合格后,冷却降温至35℃出料。
为了证明本发明的有益效果,发明人采用实施例2制备的去角质泥膜进行试验,试验结果如图1~4所示。由图可见,本发明的泥膜为白色泥状外观,肤感柔滑且易铺展,在使用半干燥后用手轻轻按摩揉搓就能完全脱落,告别传统泥膜的清洗不便,温和无刺激,软化去除老废角质的同时给肌肤提供养分,适用任何肤质。
Claims (3)
1.一种温和的去角质泥膜,其特征在于:按质量百分比计,包括丁二醇0.8%~5%、甘油0~3%、泛醇0.3%~1.5%、高岭土8%~20%、卡波姆0.02%~0.15%、黄原胶0.05%~0.3%、鲸蜡硬脂醇1%~5%、石蜡4%~15%、乳化剂2%~5%、润肤剂3%~10%、皮肤调理剂1%~5%、羟苯甲酯0.1%~0.3%、羟苯丙脂0.02%~0.2%、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲0.2%~0.5%、玫瑰精油0.05%~0.2%、中和剂0.01%~0.04%、余量为纯水;
所述的高岭土的粒径为5000~6000目;
所述的乳化剂为PEG-100硬脂酸酯与甘油硬脂酸脂的混合物,其中PEG-100硬脂酸酯占去角质泥膜质量的0.8%~1.75%,甘油硬脂酸脂占去角质泥膜质量的1.2%~3.25%;
所述润肤剂为硬脂酸与棕榈酸已基己脂、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、环己硅氧烷、生育酚已基己脂的混合物,其中硬脂酸占去角质泥膜质量的0.4%~1.2%,棕榈酸已基己脂占去角质泥膜质量的0.8%~5%,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷占去角质泥膜质量的1%~2.5%,环己硅氧烷占去角质泥膜质量的0.5%~1.5%,生育酚已基己脂占去角质泥膜质量的0.1%~0.2%;
所述的中和剂为氢氧化钾,且氢氧化钾与卡波姆的质量比为1:3~4;
所述皮肤调理剂为马齿苋提取物与β-葡聚糖的混合物,其中马齿苋提取物占去角质泥膜质量的0.5%~3%,β-葡聚糖占去角质泥膜质量的0.5%~2%。
2.根据权利要求1所述的温和的去角质泥膜,其特征在于:按质量百分比计,包括丁二醇1%~3%、甘油1~2%、泛醇0.5%~1%、高岭土10%~18%、卡波姆0.06%~0.1%、黄原胶0.1%~0.2%、鲸蜡硬脂醇1.5%~4%、石蜡5%~13%、乳化剂2.8%~4.5%、润肤剂3.6%~8.2%、皮肤调理剂1.8%~3.5%、羟苯甲酯0.12%~0.2%、羟苯丙脂0.05%~0.15%、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲0.25%~0.35%、玫瑰精油0.05%~0.1%、中和剂0.015%~0.025%、余量为纯水。
3.一种权利要求1所述的温和的去角质泥膜的制备方法,其特征在于所述制备方法由下述步骤组成:
(1)向乳化锅中依次加入乳化剂、润肤剂、鲸蜡硬脂醇、石蜡、羟苯丙酯后,关闭乳化锅,在搅拌状态下加热至80~85℃,保温8~10min,直至完全溶解;
(2)向水相锅中抽入纯水,并依次加入丁二醇、甘油、卡波姆、黄原胶、泛醇、羟苯甲酯后,关闭水相锅,在搅拌状态下加热至80~85℃,保温8~10min后均质3~5min;
(3)抽步骤(2)中水相锅内物料至步骤(1)的乳化锅内,开启搅拌40r/min,调节温度至80~85℃,真空保温搅拌15~25min,均质3~5min,然后加入高岭土,在80~85℃的状态下搅拌20~30分钟,然后抽真空,均质6~8min,直至高岭土完全分散均匀;
(4)开启冷却水降温,待温度降至35~45℃时,加入中和剂、皮肤调理剂、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、玫瑰精油继续搅拌均匀,检测合格后,冷却降温至30~40℃出料。
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